The brake lights on the VAZ-2112 do not light up or work, why?

Why do the brake lights on the VAZ-2112 not light up or work, what should I do?

On all cars of the Tenth Family, the power lines for the lights contain many elements. There are lamp health relays, switches and fuses. Therefore, if the brake lights on a VAZ-2112 do not light up, you need to check the entire chain. But the reason may look simple: sometimes the lamps do not turn on because the socket does not contact ground. Circuits are easy to analyze, but finding the cause of a breakdown is difficult. Let's look into the details.

If one of the lamps does not light, it is simply replaced. See the example in the video - you need a P21 W

Messages 5

1 Topic by pasha123d92 2016-08-07 14:16:32

pasha123d92
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Registration: 2016-04-13
Messages: 14 Thanks : 1
Car: VAZ 2112

Topic: Brake lights on VAZ 2112 do not light up, but the spoiler lights up

The brake lights on the VAZ 2112 do not light up, the spoiler lights up, the fuses are intact and the turn signals are on, what could be wrong?

2 Reply from Ursadon 2016-08-07 17:19:56

Ursadon
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From: Novosibirsk
Registration: 2014-02-15
Messages: 83 Thanks : 25
Auto: 21120

Re: Brake lights on VAZ 2112 do not light up, but the spoiler lights up

Open the trunk lid, you will see a rubber corrugation between the hinges - all the wiring is there. Most likely there is a frayed wire there.

3 Reply from pasha123d92 2016-08-07 18:31:16

pasha123d92
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Registration: 2016-04-13
Messages: 14 Thanks : 1
Car: VAZ 2112

Re: Brake lights on VAZ 2112 do not light up, but the spoiler lights up

But how are the trunk lid and stopacs connected, they are not located on the trunk lid? on the trunk lid there is only a spoiler with a stopak that lights up, and reverse lights!

4 Reply from pasha123d92 2016-08-07 19:04:24

pasha123d92
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Registration: 2016-04-13
Messages: 14 Thanks : 1
Car: VAZ 2112

Re: Brake lights on VAZ 2112 do not light up, but the spoiler lights up

I figured everything out, I thought that the stacks were where the turn signals were, but they are really on the trunk lid, I cleaned the contacts, everything worked) Now another question on the board where the turn signal is, 3 bulbs, 2 large and one small, one large turn signal is small in size, and the second large one is for what, I thought it was stop?

5 Reply from Denis Artyukhov 2016-08-13 23:18:28

Denis Artyukhov
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From: Penza
Registration: 2015-10-21
Messages: 1,391 Thanks : 279
Car: VAZ 21124

Re: Brake lights on VAZ 2112 do not light up, but the spoiler lights up

pasha123d92 , rear PTF. That is, when you turn them on, the indicator lights up brighter.

Standard version of the brake light operating diagram

Power is supplied to fuse F17 from the battery, then the current goes to limit switch contact 11, and then, if the limit switch is closed, a circuit is formed with the filament of lamps 7. But note: part of the circuit is relay K1, more precisely, its contacts 5 and 4.

Basic network diagram

If the brake lights do not light up, on the VAZ-2112, as on all Tens, check one fuse. It is called F17 and is located in the mounting block to the left of the driver.

Main mounting block

It is important to know: voltage is always present at one of the fuse terminals. Check it out!

A few words about the “serviceability relay”

The lamp health relay is called K1, and it is the largest in the mounting block. If you remove this relay, then when you press the pedal you can dial the voltage at terminal 5 (but not 4). Look at the diagram again, and it will become clear what we are talking about.

The largest relay in the block

All relay contacts are numbered. Check the voltage at the block terminals:

6 – “mass” potential;
2 – voltage “+12”, but only after turning on the ignition;
5 – “+12” by pressing the pedal;
4 – the terminal rings like a ground tap.

If the potential “0” is not generated at terminal “4,” it means that the lamp filaments are burnt out or there is a break in the wiring. Now consider something else: the ground potential has been detected, but the lamps do not light. This is where suspicions of a short circuit arise.

Common problems with brake lights

There may be several reasons:

blown fuse;
faulty sensor;
frayed or broken power cord.

The most common cause is a blown fuse responsible for protecting the signal light circuit. This fuse is located on a block built to the left of the steering column. This capacitor can withstand a current of 7.5 amperes, as evidenced by the inscription on it. It is located in the bottom row, fourth from the right edge.

If after replacing this circuit element the problem has not been resolved, other possible causes of failure should be considered.

The next troubleshooting point is to check the brake light sensor. To do this, you need to check whether voltage is entering and exiting the sensor. In this case, you need to use a control lamp. If the lamp does not light up when connected in front of the sensor, then the problem may be in the wires going to the sensor. If the lamp works before the sensor, but not after, then the problem lies in this part. You can also simply disconnect the input and output of the sensor and close it “directly” using a copper wire; if after these manipulations the lights in the brake lights light up, then the reason is precisely in the sensor. The sensor cannot be repaired, and the only way out is to replace this part with a new one.

Damaged wires may also be the cause, this will be especially noticeable if the just replaced fuse blows out - this means that the wire is frayed and there is a contact to ground. If the fuse blows without pressing the brake pedal, the wire before the sensor is damaged, and if it blows after pressing, the wire after the sensor is damaged. If there is no voltage, perhaps the wire is simply broken and does not short to ground. When troubleshooting, you should pay special attention to bends and possible areas of damage to the wires.

The next cause of problems is burnt-out LEDs in the brake light; there have been cases when both burned out at once. To replace the light bulbs, you need to remove the flashlight board by squeezing it from the sides and pulling it slightly towards you. Next, you should visually inspect the light bulbs; perhaps a visual inspection will already answer the question about the reason for the non-working brake light. After this, you should replace the old lamps with new ones.

We turn on the brake lights forcibly

Relay K1 is successfully replaced with a pad with jumpers. In Fig. 1 just shows its diagram. If there is no such platform, you can temporarily close contacts 4-5. First, check everything mentioned above.

Have an observer watch what happens to the lamps. Press the pedal with one touch and release it. If the lamps do not turn on, check that the fuse is working properly. It's burned out, which means you're looking for a short circuit.

How to and how not to check the “0 Volt” potential

Let’s agree right away that we only work with a voltmeter. Voltage “+12” is caused by connecting one probe to ground. The presence of potential “zero” is checked differently: any of the probes is connected to a terminal with positive voltage, and then the second probe is connected to the wire being tested.

How to connect a voltmeter

Consider the error: one probe is connected to ground, the second to the terminal being tested, and vol. Here they conclude that there is a “mass” potential, but this is wrong! If the contact with ground is broken, the device will also show “0”. That is, the number “0” does not contain information.

Wiring test for non-working brake lights (ground test)

Let's look at the basic diagram: the brake lights and the reversing lamps have a common ground pin. If contact with this pin is broken, the reverse lamps will not turn on. Well, brake lights too.

Connector for connecting “internal” lights

On the left side there is a connector through which the wiring goes to the fifth door. The connector has black and red wires. Check the voltages on them. Most often the ground on the black wire does not ring. But maybe the connector itself needs to be cleaned.

Usually, if the ground breaks, another pin is used - the one that is connected to the glass heating coil.

If the “plus” does not come to the red wire, we check the “frog”. It's simple here:

Disconnect the connector with two wires from the limit switch;
Using 17mm wrenches, loosen the two nuts: holding the lower nut, rotate the upper one;

Removing the frog brake

By the way, one of the connector terminals receives a voltage of “12 Volts”. Check it!

If all the steps do not lead to results, there is only one thing left: contact a qualified electrician. We wish you success.

Car lighting VAZ 2110, VAZ 2111, VAZ 2112

Lighting scheme

Headlights and lighting VAZ 2110, VAZ 2111, VAZ 2112

Removing and installing headlights

Dismantling and assembling headlight unit, replacing lamps VAZ 2110, VAZ 2111, VAZ 2112

Headlight hydraulic corrector

Hydrocorrector of headlights VAZ 2110, VAZ 2111, VAZ 2112

Replacing the hydraulic corrector master cylinder

Removing and installing the main cylinder of the headlight hydraulic corrector VAZ 2110, VAZ 2111, VAZ 2112

Adjusting the headlights

Adjusting the headlights of VAZ 2110, VAZ 2111, VAZ 2112 cars

External and internal lighting

Brake and reverse lamps, interior and trunk lighting of VAZ 2110, VAZ 2111, VAZ 2112

Direction indicators

Direction indicators VAZ 2110, VAZ 2111, VAZ 2112

Fog lights

Replacement of side and fog light of VAZ 2110, VAZ 2111, VAZ 2112

Replacing the side turn signal

Removing and installing the side direction indicator VAZ 2110, VAZ 2111, VAZ 2112

Replacing the reverse light switch

Removing and installing the reverse light switch VAZ 2110, VAZ 2111, VAZ 2112

Replacing reverse and brake lights

Removing and installing a brake light and reverse light for VAZ 2110, VAZ 2111, VAZ 2112

Tell! VAZ 2112, rear brake lights

There was a problem with the rear brake lights on the two-wheeler. At first, the right brake light did not light up periodically, I turned the lights and everything was fine. Now all 3 brake lights do not light up at all, including the additional one on the spoiler. The lamps themselves are fine, because I put this lamp where the previous speed lights up, everything works. What could be the problem?

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The connection in the circuit is sequential. Where the light bulb is inserted (inside the pin, pull it towards you for better contact) There are more powerful and weaker light bulbs - install the weaker ones.

Clean the contacts in the sockets where the light bulbs are inserted. And look at the antennae..

I decided to write a short instruction on this problem!

1. Check the light bulbs and fuse F17. If they are whole, go to point 2. Otherwise, replace and look. Are they glowing? Great! No? Let's move on to point 2.

2. The “twins” have one problem - the wiring harness that goes to the trunk door. It is usually located in the right corrugation (in the left wire to the rear wiper, I believe there is the same problem, but I got the car without a wiper). Checking this area is quite simple. You will need a multi tester or a 12 volt power supply (preferably both)

Behind the “skin”, on the right, where the rear right headlight with the “turn signal” and “fog light” runs a wire along the iron, you can feel it without removing the fabric. This wire has a male-female connector. Let's disconnect it. “Dad” goes to the lights, and “Mom” is the signal coming back from the mounting block.

First of all, we check for short circuit (preferably with a multi tester) the male connector. There are four contacts “black – minus; red-stop including extra in spoiler; green – reverse; white – trunk opening solenoid. Next, we check each wire for breaks. Again, using a multi tester, one contact to the wire on the male connector, the other to the corresponding wire in the headlight block (black-black, red-red, etc. one by one, check the short circuit with other wires). If everything is in order, then using a 12V power source you can light the lamps. If they don’t light up, the reason is most likely in the circuit boards of the headlight itself, a lot has been written about this (by the way, the spoiler stop still lights up another connection there). If you get tanned, go to step 3. Connect the connector back.

Otherwise, we eliminate the short circuit, most likely it is in the very place where the wires go to the door, you will have to remove the trim, the side trim on the roof pillar, one ceiling cap - the far right one, the trim on the trunk door itself, and pull out the harness until the inspection point appears. Be careful with the rear window heating wire; it will need to be returned. I hooked another wire to this wire and only after that I began to pull it out, returning the harness to its place, pull it by the wire and pull the contact back. I had a break in the “minus” and a short circuit in almost all the wires. He healed and returned the tourniquet to its place; if desired, it can be replaced with a new one (it was in the evening, there was nothing to ride on.). We return the wires, not forgetting to connect the connector. Let's check. Are they glowing? Great! No? Let's move on to point 3.

3. We check the fastening of the black wire of the “mother” to the body - when checked with a multi tester, it should give a short circuit to the body. The attachment point itself is located in the left niche of the luggage compartment. If everything is in order, we read further (otherwise, of course, we determine the cause and check; in the absence of a “minus”, the reversing lights, solenoid and stop lights will not work, most likely the wiper will not work either). Next we move to the driver's seat. There is a “frog” above the brake pedal. Two wires come to it, one always has 12V “+” (in my opinion it’s white with a red stripe), we check this fact with a tester on the case. Is there tension? Yes! Let's move on to point 4. No, read on...

If there is no voltage on any wire, “it’s crap” - a ground break - unlikely, but possible. I can't imagine where it could happen. Purely theoretically, the mass can be taken anywhere. Once the car starts, and only the rear brake lights do not light up, it means there is a mass somewhere close. However, a broken ground wire in a car is a huge source of danger, it must be found... We eliminate the source of the problem. Let's check. Are they glowing? Great! No? Let's move on to point 4.

4. There is voltage on the wires! We check the “frog” itself; the multi tester (on the contacts of the “frog”) should show a short circuit when the brake pedal is pressed. No ? We change the frog (by the way, you can short-circuit the two wires coming to the “frog”, the brake lights should light up). Let's check. Are they glowing? Great! No? Let's move on to point 5.

5. There is one weak link left... Relay for checking the integrity of lamps or as it is called Relay BSK. Most likely, the spiral there burned out, I suppose you can solder another one, but the cost is not high, so I replaced it completely. Let's check. Are they glowing? Great! No? Let's move on to point 6.

6. Here I can assume a break in the lead in the cable to the distribution block. It’s not a pleasant task; you’ll have to open the upholstery and look for it. Or throw a makeshift directly from the “frog” to the connector that we found in point 2.

Good luck to everyone on the roads. And do not get to point 6 of this instruction. Thank you for attention…

Main reasons

Almost all problems related to automotive electrical systems can be solved in approximately the same way. You need to look for a potential or probable cause of malfunctions in the problematic object itself, or understand the system responsible for supplying power.

The situation is exactly the same with devices called brake lights. If they stop working, then you should look for the reason in one of the following points:

There were problems with the fuse. It has oxidized or completely failed;
There are faults in the lamps themselves or in one lamp, depending on how many stops are not working;
The reason lies in the mechanism responsible for turning on the warning signal when the brake is applied;
In the socket where the stop light is installed, the contacts have oxidized;
More serious problems appeared related to damage to the wiring.

Based on the stated reasons why the feet may stop working, we can draw a completely objective conclusion. A truly serious malfunction concerns only wear or damage to the electrical wiring. Solving such a problem with your own hands is not always correct.

When the rear brake lights (left and right) or the additional central brake light repeater fail, do not rush to look for an auto electrician and offer him money to fix the problem.

There is a high probability that you will be able to do everything on your own. You will only need a standard set of tools for a motorist, as well as an understanding of how the lighting equipment in general works in your vehicle. Start with the most likely and fairly simple to solve possible malfunctions. Only if it turns out that the problem is bad or damaged electrical wiring, then it makes sense to visit a good car service center. It is better to entrust such tasks to experienced craftsmen. The main components for restoring the operation of brake lights on your own, you will need a spare working lamp, a control unit or a multimeter, as well as suitable tools.

It would be a good idea to study the owner's manual and understand how to get to the stops on your car.

Fuse

The first place to start is by searching for the mounting block in which the fuse responsible for the brake light is located.

Moreover, each machine has its own electrical circuit and specific location of fuses.

These can vary significantly depending on the vehicle, such as:

VAZ 2110;
VAZ 2107;
Toyota Rav 4;
Ford Fusion;
VAZ 2114;
VAZ 2115;
Ford Focus;
Chevrolet Lacetti;
Lada Granta;
Hyundai Accent;
Renault Logan;
Hyundai Solaris, etc.

A blown fuse quite often causes the failure of a number of equipment, including lighting devices. Check fuses visually and using a multimeter.

But there is a simple and effective way to check that takes a minimum of time. To do this, start the engine and hold down the horn button. This is not suitable for all car models, but on many vehicles the same fuse is often responsible for the sound signal and brake lights.

If this is not the case, we continue our search further.

Brake lamps and their sockets

Next, you should switch to the brake lights themselves. In most cars, to gain access to the feet, the luggage compartment is opened, the rear light bulb is removed, after which you can get to the feet themselves.

But the dismantling process may differ on different brands and models. Here, start from your car specifically; if necessary, look for hints in the operating manual. There are examples of cars where you can get to the brake light without removing the rear optics at all. You still have one main task ahead of you. It consists of gaining physical access to the faulty device, the lamp and the socket in which it is located. Not everyone can try to determine the problem by eye. Here it is better to take a different route.

The optimal solution would be to use new, similar lamps instead of potentially faulty ones. Therefore, you will have to buy a light bulb in advance and screw it in. If you can't find a lamp of a similar size, use a marker or turn signal repeater. Make sure these conditional controls work first.

When everything worked after installing the new lamps, you found the reason. You can confidently buy new matching stop lamps, replace old ones and reassemble the unit in reverse order.

It is extremely important to take into account one feature. Some modern cars have such a principle of operation of brake lights, in which when one car brake light fails for one reason or another, the second one automatically stops functioning. That is, sometimes checking one lamp does not give a result, since in fact the chances are 50/50 of replacing the burnt lamp, and not the one that simply turned off in tandem.

If replacing the light bulbs did not give anything, check the sockets themselves. It happens that they oxidize, this breaks contact, and the device does not turn on, although power is supplied to it. Also make sure that the socket is connected to the vehicle wiring. If necessary, the contacts are disconnected, cleaned with fine-grained sandpaper, and then returned to their place. Even during this procedure, it is recommended to apply a special lubricant to the contacts after cleaning.

One more thing. When checking the sockets, it is also worth taking new light bulbs. It happens that due to oxidation of the cartridge, the lighting device itself fails. That is, in fact, 2 malfunctions occur simultaneously.

Problems with the switch

The brake light on a car lights up the moment the driver presses the brake pedal with his foot while sitting behind the wheel. When pressed in this way, the force is transferred to a special mechanism. It is popularly called a frog. It is also a limit switch and it is also a classic brake light switch.

There are 3 main reasons why a frog or limit switch may not work:

contacts have oxidized;
carbon deposits appeared;
corrosion has formed.

Despite the slightly different processes, the essence of the problem is the same. It can be eliminated by stripping the frog, or by replacing the stop switch.

The brake lights on the VAZ-2112 do not light up or work, why?

If one of the lamps does not light, it is simply replaced. See the example in the video - you need a P21 W

Basic network diagram

If the brake lights do not light up, on the VAZ-2112, as on all Tens, check one fuse. It is called F17 and is located in the mounting block to the left of the driver.

Main mounting block

It is important to know: voltage is always present at one of the fuse terminals. Check it out!

The largest relay in the block

All relay contacts are numbered. Check the voltage at the block terminals:

6 – “mass” potential;
2 – voltage “+12”, but only after turning on the ignition;
5 – “+12” by pressing the pedal;
4 – the terminal rings like a ground tap.

Have an observer watch what happens to the lamps. Press the pedal with one touch and release it. If the lamps do not turn on, check that the fuse is working properly. It's burned out, which means you're looking for a short circuit.

How to and how not to check the “0 Volt” potential

How to connect a voltmeter

Brake lamps on VAZ 2114 do not light up

To find out the cause of this malfunction, you must first determine whether the power supply to the rear lights is suitable. To do this, using a test lamp or tester, we ring the end of the wire, the brake light. If there is no voltage on the wire and the brake pedal is pressed, we continue troubleshooting. If there is voltage, but the brake light does not light up, check the presence of ground in the rear lights, as well as the serviceability of the lamps. If only one brake light does not light, you must also check the rear light board and the integrity of its tracks. Sometimes it happens that the lamps are working properly and there is voltage, but the lamps do not light up; here you should check the contacts of the lamps; perhaps the cause of the malfunction is poor contact, lamps with a base.

Having found out that the power supply to the rear lights is not suitable at all, we check the functionality of the brake light switch or the frog, which is located under the brake pedal, to do this, remove the wires from the switch and connect them to each other; if the brake lights work, change the switch. If there is voltage on the frog, and when the wires are shorted, the signals still do not work, most likely, there is a break in the wire going to the rear lights, or a bad contact in the block of this wire. To fix it, we try to find a broken wire and fix it. If all of the above manipulations do not bring results, we look for the cause in the fuses, first we check the serviceability of the interior lighting; if the lighting does not work, most likely the sixth fuse in the mounting block has blown, located under the hood on the driver's side.

We check this fuse for serviceability; if it is faulty, replace it with a new one. Everything should now work. If it still does not work, it is possible that the mounting block is faulty; in this case, the fault must be identified by ringing the mounting block or replacing it. Our cars are equipped at the front with two headlight units, which, in turn, are equipped with a hydraulic level corrector for the direction of illumination. Some cars are equipped with accessories that are mounted on the niches of the front bumper. The rear is equipped with 2 sets of combination lights +P LED brake light on the spoiler.

The reverse lights do not light up on the VAZ 08 -09 -99 -10. We are looking for the reason.

The registration number is illuminated by 2 lights that are installed in the trunk lid. Absolutely all samar owners encounter problems related to optics, headlights, and lamps. In this article, we will give the main causes of the problem and help you fix it. It is worth noting one interesting fact: in our cars, most often the right low beam headlights do not light up. Why is this the mystery of our automobile industry? Headlamp unit. Why isn't the low beam on? PIf the low beam does not light, then the following causes of the malfunction are possible: Our cars are equipped with double-filament halogen lamps, i.e., both low and high beam headlights are provided by one lamp, different lamp filaments simply light up.

P Replace the lamp with a known working one. To find out how to properly replace the lamp, see article PP 2)PPPPP The fuse has blown. The low beam fuse has blown, check the fuse and replace it. You will find the answers to how to find, check and replace the fuse in the article. PP 3) PPPPP P wires have oxidized. We look at the fuse block, namely the blocks of all tires to the fuse and relay block. They can become detached, poorly secured, or oxidize. Let's fix it. We also look at the wires connected to the lamp itself; the contact group of the headlight may have oxidized. 4) PPPPP Low beam activation button. The fact is that the switch (button) for the low beam or side lights may have broken.

The problem is typical: the wire has come loose or oxidized. This situation often occurs among owners of our brands. There may be 2 options: again, poor contact with the fuse. If nothing helps you, then I advise you to call the wiring. If you are not comfortable with electricians, then it is better to turn to a professional. Why don't the high beam headlights light up? The reasons are absolutely the same as in low beam, but! Do not forget that the high beam is turned on by the steering column switch, which could also fail. Dimensions don't light up If your lights don't light up, then read P Reverse lights don't light up If your reverse lights don't light up, then see article P Turn signals don't work See article P for reasons why turn signals can't work

Wiring test for non-working brake lights (ground test)

Let's look at the basic diagram: the brake lights and the reversing lamps have a common ground pin. If contact with this pin is broken, the reverse lamps will not turn on. Well, brake lights too.

Connector for connecting “internal” lights

Usually, if the ground breaks, another pin is used - the one that is connected to the glass heating coil.

If the “plus” does not come to the red wire, we check the “frog”. It's simple here:

Disconnect the connector with two wires from the limit switch;
Using 17mm wrenches, loosen the two nuts: holding the lower nut, rotate the upper one;

Removing the frog brake

By the way, one of the connector terminals receives a voltage of “12 Volts”. Check it!

If all the steps do not lead to results, there is only one thing left: contact a qualified electrician. We wish you success.

The brake lights on the VAZ-2112 do not light up or work, why?

If one of the lamps does not light, it is simply replaced. See the example in the video - you need a P21 W

Basic network diagram

If the brake lights do not light up, on the VAZ-2112, as on all Tens, check one fuse. It is called F17 and is located in the mounting block to the left of the driver.

Main mounting block

It is important to know: voltage is always present at one of the fuse terminals. Check it out!

The largest relay in the block

All relay contacts are numbered. Check the voltage at the block terminals:

6 – “mass” potential;
2 – voltage “+12”, but only after turning on the ignition;
5 – “+12” by pressing the pedal;
4 – the terminal rings like a ground tap.

How to and how not to check the “0 Volt” potential

How to connect a voltmeter

Wiring test for non-working brake lights (ground test)

Let's look at the basic diagram: the brake lights and the reversing lamps have a common ground pin. If contact with this pin is broken, the reverse lamps will not turn on. Well, brake lights too.

Connector for connecting “internal” lights

Usually, if the ground breaks, another pin is used - the one that is connected to the glass heating coil.

If the “plus” does not come to the red wire, we check the “frog”. It's simple here:

Disconnect the connector with two wires from the limit switch;
Using 17mm wrenches, loosen the two nuts: holding the lower nut, rotate the upper one;

Removing the frog brake

By the way, one of the connector terminals receives a voltage of “12 Volts”. Check it!

If all the steps do not lead to results, there is only one thing left: contact a qualified electrician. We wish you success.

WHY ARE THE STOP LIGHTS NOT GOING ON?

The brake light indication is one of the most important signals indicating driver actions. Therefore, it is impossible to postpone repairs if the brake lights are not on. If you notice a malfunction along the way and you are unable to eliminate the cause of the breakdown, turn on the hazard lights and drive at low speed to the nearest service station or a place suitable for DIY repairs.

SEARCH PRINCIPLE

To find a fault in any vehicle on-board network system, you should use the method of sequential elimination of elements. The point is to consistently check electrical appliances and sections of the circuit, excluding elements from the list of reasons that could cause a breakdown. To do this, you need to clearly understand the design and operating principle of the system. When troubleshooting, you need to move from the components that require the least effort to check, to the most difficult to diagnose elements.