Replacing brake discs on a VAZ 2110 with your own hands

The braking system greatly determines how safe the VAZ 2110 will be both for you and for other road users. Her condition must be systematically checked. Replacing brake discs may be required after an average of 100,000 kilometers, but in some cases earlier.

The braking system is an important component of the car.

Replacing the front brake discs of a VAZ 2110

The car is considered one of the most dangerous inventions that man has invented. To make the travel of a vehicle driver safe, developers had to create many inventions. One of them is brakes (see Repairing brakes at home). Every vehicle has a braking system. To avoid any troubles on the roadway, before leaving, you should take care of the brake system. It must be constantly maintained in working order. In most cases, repairs to brake discs and pads should be left to professionals. But if you take on repairs yourself, you should learn a few basic rules.

Note: Brake discs must be replaced on both sides at the same time. Each individual replacement of equipment requires the implementation of clear established rules. If new disks were damaged during installation due to the negligence of the installer, sellers will not provide warranty service or replace the product.

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Replacing brake discs yourself

Front brake discs VAZ 2110

The first step is to dismantle the worn-out brake discs. To do this you should do:

• The car wheel should be removed.
• Remove worn brake pads.
• Disassemble the brake frame.
• Clean the surface of the hub.
• Check the operation of the hub.
• Remove excess coating from new discs.
• Check the brake disc runout.
• Install the brake pads.

To carry out this work, the following equipment, mechanisms, and tools should be used:

• Jack.
• Any device for unscrewing nuts with the number “7”.
• Wrenches with numbers "13" and "17".
• Hammer.
• A screwdriver designed for unscrewing flat fasteners.

Removing the wheel

Removing the front wheel of a VAZ 2110

In order to remove a car wheel, you must do the following:

• A jack is installed under the car.
• The car is raised to such a level that it does not tip over, but the removal of the wheel was carried out without interference.
• Unscrew the wheel mounts with a wrench.
• Remove the hubcaps and the wheel itself.

This work is no different from replacing a tire when the tires go flat due to a puncture.

Removing the brake pads

Front brake pads VAZ 2110

To remove used brake pads:

• The piston must be moved as far as possible from the standard mechanism.

Note: The distance should not exceed that which will be convenient for removing old brake pads.

• The seized brake pads are disposed of.

To make the work easier, you should disassemble the brake frame:

• Unscrew the two bolts that secure the VAZ 2110 pads.
• Disconnect the device completely.

Note: after unscrewing the bolts, the wheel cylinder brake hose remains untouched.

Cleaning the hub and checking for runout

Front hub VAZ 2110

The next step is cleaning the hub. It should be thoroughly cleaned, as additional debris can negatively affect the performance of the new equipment. For this purpose it is used:

• Wire brush.
• Alcohol solvent.

This method cleans the mechanism from rust, dirt and possible surface damage. Sometimes, when the hub surface is not cleaned, the brake system may make a sound that sounds like a beating sound. This condition is unacceptable.

Note: remaining dirt on the hub, its deviations in operation due to poor cleaning, are not a defect in the brake discs.

Before finally fixing the devices in place, a test run should be carried out. This will help you find out the hub runout. This test uses a special device. The normal runout should not exceed 0.1 millimeters. When the hub runout indicator is exceeded, the hub mechanism should be repaired and only then further installation of the brake discs should be carried out. Hub repairs are carried out quite carefully. It is necessary to replace the bearing if the runout of the mechanism is too great. To replace a bearing, do the following:

• Lightly unscrew the nut that secures the stand. There is no need to unscrew it completely.
• We completely unscrew the nut that holds the CV joint (see VAZ 2110: replacing the CV joint - do it right). The stand is removed.
• The spring must be compressed. To do this, it is necessary to use a tightening mechanism. It is installed on a spring and gradually clamped on both sides.
• At the moment of maximum compression of the spring (it should not be compressed completely), the old bearing is removed.
• The old bearing is removed and a new, ready-to-use working bearing takes its place.

After installing the new bearing, we assemble the hub mechanism in the reverse order. After each element is installed in its place, you should check the hub runout again. Don't forget about the maximum value.

Note. The check must be carried out carefully, since the safety of the driver and his passengers may depend on its operation.

Preparing new drives for installation

VAZ 2110 front and rear wheels

An integral part of replacing VAZ 2110 brake discs is removing the coating on the new part. New brake discs have a special coating called conservative. Any solvent can be used for this purpose. After removing the coating, new brake discs should be installed in place of the old worn ones.

Checking the runout of the disc itself

VAZ 2110 front brake disc is heating up

Once again, it is necessary to do a small check of the performance indicators. This time you should pay attention to the runout of the brake disc itself. The maximum permissible value should not exceed 0.15 millimeters. When repairs are carried out carefully and according to the rules, this indicator should not exceed the permissible value.

Note. When the indicator is exceeded, and the repairman does not deign to do the calibration, the sensitivity of the brake pedal can increase significantly. In addition, vibration will increase during braking.

Installation

VAZ 2110 front disc brakes kit

The last step when replacing the brake disc of a VAZ 2110 car is to install the brake pads in their original place. The steps to perform this operation are carried out in the opposite order as at the time of disassembly.

Replacing the front brake disc on a VAZ 2112 on your own

Front brake disc of a VAZ 2112 car

Brake discs are an indispensable part of the braking system. They, together with the pads, when slowing down and stopping the car, convert kinetic energy into thermal energy, which arises from friction against the pad discs. The maximum braking effect occurs after the brake pads and discs have been worn in. The period for running in the elements is from five hundred to one thousand kilometers. During this period, you should not brake sharply to allow the working surfaces of the disc and pads to grind in. On a VAZ 2112, the front disc brakes can wear out faster or slower, which is influenced by the driving style of the car. Typically, the metal used to make parts is cast iron, but sometimes ceramics or carbon are used on sports cars. This article describes how to correctly replace the front brake discs of a VAZ 2112.

What are the types and causes of disk failures?

• Accelerated disc wear can occur when using low-quality brake pad linings. They may have more solids and other abnormalities.
• Active driving, accompanied by constant braking or acceleration, and frequent driving through puddles can cause deformation of the disc or the appearance of microcracks on it. The reason for this is the sharp cooling of the disk; when braking, it can heat up to a temperature of 450 degrees. If the disc is deformed, then vibrations occur during braking, microcracks appear, which, as they increase, will lead to destruction of the disc, and sometimes to jamming of the brake mechanism.
• When dirt or large inclusions get into the gap between the surfaces rubbing against each other, grooves appear in the discs and pad linings. New pads with damaged discs take longer to break in.

Tip: You can detect a low-quality pad that has hard inclusions by the characteristic squeak that comes from the discs at low speeds, and not in braking mode. This indicates the formation of a bead that touches the edge of the pad.

Repair or replacement of front brake discs on a VAZ 2112 is needed when:

• Deformations.
• Uneven disc thickness around the circumference.
• Formation of beads.

Signs of problems are:

• When braking, jerking, increased vibration and extraneous sounds appear.
• The slightest pressure on the pedal causes the brakes to lock.
• The thickness of the disc decreases below the permissible value.
• When braking, a metallic grinding noise appears. In this case, the metal base of the pad rubs against the shoulder of the outer surface of a heavily worn disc.
• Chips and cracks on the disk, which are clearly visible through the holes located in the wheel rims.

Checking the new brake system

Note: You should immediately break in the new brake system. To do this, you need to travel 500 kilometers. The braking process should be done smoothly, without any sudden movements. If you ignore this rule, brake disc defects may occur. They arise during the process of overheating.

VAZ 2110 front brake discs

It should be noted that most modern motorists do not even think about the moment of changing brake discs. They cannot independently determine the right moment. Therefore, you should know several basic indicators that will indicate the proximity of this repair:

• You should pay attention to the thickness of the ventilated disc. Its normal condition and indicators should be 17 millimeters.
• A non-ventilated disk has its own indicator, which should not exceed 10 millimeters.
• Constantly pay attention to the runout indicator, which should not exceed 0.15 millimeters.
• Entrust the measurement of indicators to specialists. Self-measurement may not provide accurate results.
• Pay attention to the surface of the disc. If there is any damage to it, the brake system should be replaced immediately.

Motorists should pay attention to the choice of new brake discs. Purchasing from retail outlets that do not have permission to provide services to the public is strictly prohibited. The product may be counterfeit or not meet safety standards. The best option is a ventilated brake disc. Unlike a non-ventilated disc, such parts have an increased shelf life. Thanks to the constant air flow, the period of their use can be extended by 2 times.

Signs you need to replace drives

To determine whether the condition of the brake discs is close to the need to replace, it is recommended to do the following:

• Check the thickness of the brake disc. The normal size is 17 millimeters. This is when we are talking about ventilated discs;
• Non-ventilated elements have their own indicator, and it is 10 millimeters;
• Check runout. This parameter is normally 0.15 millimeters and does not exceed it;
• Runout indicators should be measured at professional service stations that are equipped with appropriate equipment. Independent measurements do not always give accurate results;
• Examine the surface of the brake disc. If you find any damage, defects, chips, or cracks, be sure to replace parts immediately;
• As for choosing new items, purchase them exclusively from certified stores that have permission to provide the appropriate services. Buying on the market can lead to fakes that do not meet strict safety standards. Alas, there are now more than enough such discs;
• You should buy ventilated discs, the shelf life of which is significantly longer than their non-ventilated counterparts, plus their efficiency is better. The air flow that cools the brakes approximately doubles the lifespan of a simple non-ventilated brake system.

The process is complex, but possible to do it yourself. Follow instructions, observe safety regulations, and use only high-quality, proven parts. Still, reliable brakes are a guarantee of your safety and the safety of all other road users.

Replacing brake pads is a consequence of changing discs

Since when replacing a brake disc, the brake pads must be replaced, the process of this work should also be described. It is not recommended to use old brake pads with new brake discs. This can worsen the braking process, and in some cases lead to immediate failure of the brake discs. To replace brake pads on a VAZ 2110, you should be able to do the following work:

• Since the car is in the air, you should start removing the pads the moment the wheel is disconnected from the car.
• Having a flat-head screwdriver, you should bend the lock washers. They are the locking mechanism for the caliper bracket bolts.
• After bending, unscrew the bracket nut (top). Using a key with the number “17”, we clamp the bolt on one side and unscrew the nut on the other.

Replacing the front brake pads of a VAZ

• After unscrewing the bolt, all that remains is to remove the brake pads. This applies to both internal and external.
• After dismantling the old equipment, it should be replaced with new one.

Note: New brake pads must be lubricated before installation. It would be preferable and more effective to use copper grease.

After the lubricated brake pads are in place, it is necessary to completely reassemble all parts of the brake system and wheel in reverse order. If it is necessary to replace all brake discs, this procedure is performed separately for each wheel.

Note. Before driving with a new brake system, the first few hundred kilometers should be braked smoothly. This is necessary for the safety of the driver and the integrity of parts of the vehicle's braking system.

If you have doubts about self-repair, the work should be entrusted to professionals. They will not only carry out high-quality repairs, but will also make a selection of spare parts. With their selection, brake system spare parts will be of high quality. This will allow the VAZ 2110 driver not to have to search for spare parts. In addition, it is recommended to watch the video tutorial downloaded from the Internet. It is also recommended to use photographic materials as a visual aid if the work is still done with your own hands. During the replacement process, you need to follow the advice given in the instructions. Thus, you can save a lot of money, because the price of professional services is not cheap.

Installation of R15 brake discs on a VAZ 2110

Installing R15 tires on the “ten” is not a problem, but it will not be possible to provide good braking to R14 brake discs. In order for the braking performance to be at the proper level, 15 brakes should be installed on the VAZ 2110. After 195/50 R15 tires were installed on the car, the effectiveness of the R14 brakes was clearly not enough. It was decided to install 15th ventilated brake discs.

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What is needed to replace 14 brakes with 15 ones?

First you need to select the staples. There is a bracket on sale: bi-tuning (digested from a bracket for 14 brakes), LGR brackets and PROSPORT brackets. I settled on the last option. Price 1400 rubles. By the way, about the spacers for the brackets. You can use brackets from R13 ventilated discs, but they need to be sharpened. But in order for them to stand up like this, you need to grind off the edges of the ears. Selecting brake discs is more difficult. I ordered it on existential. The VAZ 2110 is equipped with 15th brake discs from Alfa Romeo; I chose Zimmerman (inexpensive and cheerful). Price 2300r.ps When purchasing brake discs, please note that you need 284mm. If the discs are 280mm, then the pads will protrude slightly from above the discs. This is fraught with chipping of the pads on top. The pads I chose were EBC Green from Alfa Romeo (it has a larger lining surface area). Price 1900 rub.

Installation of 15 brake discs on a VAZ 2110

Replacing it yourself is not difficult. We remove the brake discs, unscrew the brackets, guides, and cylinders. We remove the rims (instructions). The peculiarity of the Alfa Romeo rim is that the CO is 0.5 mm larger than that of the VAZ. Fiat has the same central center as Alfa Romeo. For proper centering, you will need to cut a strip from a beer can, which we insert between the disc and the hub to eliminate play. We put on the disc and screw on the new bracket. This photo shows the difference between brake discs 14 and 15 (in diameter).

When I started inserting my fingers, I discovered that one of the two holes for the finger (ProSport) was smaller than the other and the finger would not fit into it. The same picture was observed on the second bracket. Drilled it out with a drill bit d8.5mm. Then everything went without surprises. Reassemble in the reverse order and bleed the brakes. Another option is to install 15 discs from the Mazda PX-7 Turbo. The plates were turned by a turner, the main thing is to find the suitable metal. The hardened bolts were made to order. You can also use a set of adapters (price 800 rubles), which are installed with the Lada Kalina Sport R15 brake disc 284x21mm and the standard VAZ 2112 caliper.

Discs from Kalina are a reasonable limit. You can make an adapter for brake discs yourself: According to first impressions, the difference in braking is noticeable more than expected. In addition, this will provide greater stability when the disk heats up and good information content. At low speeds the difference is less noticeable than at high speeds, where the arrival is simply crazy. The difference also greatly depends on the quality of the brake discs. There is only one drawback - more expensive R15 tires, which you need to buy for the winter! By the way, to increase the performance of the rear brakes, you can replace the drums with discs.

Withdrawal procedure

1. Remove the desired wheel and brake pads.

2. Unscrew the 2 bolts securing the shoe guide to the steering knuckle and remove the brake mechanism assembly. At the same time, we do not disconnect it from the wheel cylinder.

3. We hang the removed brake mechanism to the front suspension spring. Do not twist or strain the brake hose.

4. Clean the disk from dirt and apply WD-40 to the connections between the disk and the hub and to the guide pins.

5. Unscrew the 2 guide pins and remove the brake disc. You can knock it down with a rubber mallet.

6. Install the brake disc in the reverse order. If you are replacing an old disk, you need to use a file to remove the beads that have formed during wear.

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Important parameters when choosing brake pads

When choosing brake pads for Kalina and other VAZ models, it is necessary to take into account that the problem of the existence of counterfeits currently remains relevant, which is largely facilitated by the imperfections of the current legislation. Therefore, it is recommended to make such purchases in branded stores that are not interested in supplying products of questionable quality. On the contrary, small retail outlets bear virtually no responsibility for low-quality products, attracting customers with low prices and many other marketing ploys.

So, what you need to pay attention to first:

• for the presence of a certificate - the packaging of the pads must contain a mark of compliance of the proposed product with ECE criteria (marking - 90R/R90);
• An external inspection of the friction layer can also provide an invaluable service: the presence of foreign substances on it should raise suspicions, although the presence of such minor defects as small chips, cracks, dents or bulges is acceptable;
• pay attention to the metal base - it should be smooth, without visible bends, even microscopic peeling of the friction material should be absent;
• pay attention to the operating temperature of the pads you purchase - the higher the value, the better the braking performance. For most VAZ models, this figure is in the range of 280 - 350 ° C. At the same time, it makes no sense to overpay for expensive products that can withstand temperatures of 800 ° C or more.

Marking

An experienced motorist can tell about the quality of the pads both from an external inspection and from the product labeling. Most car enthusiasts do not pay attention to the last factor, and completely in vain. Thus, one of the most important indicators of braking efficiency is the friction coefficient, denoted by two Latin letters that correspond to certain numerical indicators

The first symbol indicates the average coefficient of the pad when it is heated, the second – after complete cooling.

Table of friction coefficient values ​​(the higher the value, the more effective the braking and the higher the wear of the pads):

• C – less than 0.15;
• D – CT is 0.15 – 0.25;
• E – coefficient value lies in the range of 0.25 – 0.35;
• F – friction coefficient is 0.35 – 0.45;
• G – CT = 0.45 – 0.55;
• H – friction coefficient indicator is 0.55 – 0.8.

Unfortunately, not all products present on the domestic market have this marking.

In addition to the friction coefficient, the marking may include the following information:

• compliance with the EU certificate (we have already talked about it, it is indicated by the symbols 90R or R90, followed by the approval number);
• catalog number HEXEN;
• designation of the production batch;
• WVA number, which determines the geometry of the pads.

Here you can find out the country in which the product was manufactured:

• E1 corresponds to Germany;
• E2 points to France;
• E3 is Italy;
• E11 indicates a UK manufacturer.

Classification of brake pads

There are two main criteria that are taken as the basis for the classification of pads: the material of manufacture and the method of their fixation.

According to the first parameter, brake pads are divided into:

• organic;
• metal;
• made of ceramics;
• semi-metallic.

Let's look at the advantages and disadvantages of each of the varieties described above.

Organic brake pads

This type of pad is characterized by a multi-component composition - they are made of Kevlar with the addition of rubber, glass, high-temperature resins and carbon materials. The advantages of such products are their softness and low noise level when braking. However, organic pads also have quite a few disadvantages: low wear resistance, deterioration of adhesion and an increase in braking distance when moisture gets on the pads. From an environmental point of view, despite the name, these products can also hardly be called ideal, and their ability to generate large quantities of dust leads to rapid clogging of the ventilation holes in the brake discs and their overheating.

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Metal pads

The composition of this type of pad is again reflected in the name with a certain degree of convention: it is similar to organic products, but with the addition of metal components, which are usually steel or copper. Thanks to this, the wear resistance of such pads is higher, which improves braking efficiency. Another advantage is their ability to significantly improve heat transfer, which is especially important for drivers who prefer an aggressive driving style. True, in terms of wear rate, metal brake pads are still far from ideal, and they are more expensive than organic ones.

Ceramic pads

The most common variety. Despite the fact that their cost is the highest, in all other respects they are undoubted leaders. The composition of the upper friction layer is a mixture of non-ferrous metals, a small amount of iron and ceramic fibers. Such products are much less afraid of water ingress, tolerate increased thermal loads well, and are characterized by excellent braking properties.

They have the ability to heat up less intensely than other varieties, do not wear out brake discs as much and practically do not emit fine dust, keeping the ventilation holes in working order.

Ceramic brake pads don't get too hot

Semi-metallic brake pads

The composition of this type of pads is characterized by a varying content of metal impurities - ranging from 30 to 60%! (usually copper or steel). The remaining components are various inorganic materials and graphite. Typically, semi-metallic pads include a special friction modifier, which helps to better bond the remaining components.

This type of product boasts good heat transfer, but otherwise they have the same disadvantages as other pads, with the exception of ceramic ones: they wear out quickly, are noisy when braking, do not tolerate negative temperatures well, increasing the braking distance in winter.

In general, it should be noted that the requirements for the material used to make brake pads are largely contradictory, so manufacturers strive to find a reasonable compromise between such characteristics as heat resistance, wear resistance, the ability to retain their properties when exposed to moisture, and so on.

It's no secret that hard braking means increased friction between the brake disc/drum and the friction surface of the pad, leading to the release of a huge amount of heat. When the temperature rises sharply, low-quality products become covered with a slippery glassy crust, which significantly reduces braking efficiency. The addition of special fillers that increase the thermal conductivity of the friction material, facilitating rapid heat transfer to the substrate, usually reduces the wear resistance of the product.

When choosing brake pads for VAZ-2107, 2110, 2112 and other models, give preference to ceramic products with reinforcement, since they have the least impact on the brake discs. Pads made using non-ferrous metal shavings are slightly inferior to them.

Depending on the type of fixation to a metal plate, there are two types of pads: riveted and glued. Despite the apparent fundamental difference between these fasteners, in reality their performance characteristics are approximately equal.

Glued pads

Friction linings are fixed to a metal base using a special adhesive composition with deep penetrating characteristics. The advantage of glued pads is the ability to use them until they are almost completely worn out, which increases their service life, but at the same time poses a danger of damage to the brake disc, so for this type of product it is important to monitor their condition and change them in time, preventing complete wear.

Rivet pads

The reliability of a riveted connection in this case is comparable to an adhesive connection, while the service life of such pads is somewhat shorter. But the driver can determine the degree of wear by purely external signs - by the characteristic creaking sound produced by the rivets rubbing against the disk. In this case, there is no need to look into the brake mechanism.

Replacement steps

The entire replacement process can be divided into several stages:

• Removing wheels;
• Removing the old brake pad;
• Frame disassembly;
• Cleaning the hub and checking it;
• Removing coating from new disks;
• Runout check;
• Installation of new brake system elements.

Now let's talk about this in more detail.

Removing the wheel

In fact, dismantling the wheel for subsequent replacement of the brake elements is not difficult.

But a certain sequence of actions will have to be followed.

• Place a jack under the car.
• Lift it up so that it doesn't tip over, but still allows you to easily remove the wheels.
• Unscrew the wheel fasteners.
• Remove the hubcaps and the wheels themselves.

As you can see, the procedure is really simple, but it requires attention and accuracy.

Removing the pads

• Try to move the piston as far as possible from the brake mechanism. But do not exceed the distance beyond that which will allow you to comfortably remove the brake pads.
• Take out the block.
• To make the job easier, you can disassemble the brake frame. To do this, unscrew the two bolts securing the block and disconnect the device.

Hub

It must be cleaned, since all accumulated debris, dirt, and rust will negatively affect the effectiveness of the new brakes.

Dirty

For cleaning, alcohol-based solvents and metal brushes are used. If cleaning is not performed, the operation of the brakes will be accompanied by beating - this should absolutely not be allowed.

Be sure to check the hub for runout. Normally it does not exceed 0.1 mm. There is a special tool for checking. If the indicator is within normal limits, then a full assembly is performed.

Working with new disks

Many owners of the “Ten” are interested in which brake discs are best to choose for the VAZ 2110. The question is quite logical.

Choose certified replacements from reputable manufacturers such as Bosch, or stay true to factory parts. These are the two best options in terms of quality and compliance with the car itself.

New

Some take similar discs that partially fit the “ten”, sharpen them, and adjust the design. This is a dubious undertaking, since it requires serious skills in such a matter, additional time and financial costs. At the same time, it is far from a fact that such brakes will work better than those offered by the AvtoVAZ plant.

You've already figured out how to remove the brake element, so it's time to work on a new one. It’s not enough to just buy another brake disc and put it in place. First, it is prepared and a runout check is performed. Let's talk about this in more detail.

• The coating must be removed from a new disc.
• This coating serves as a kind of preservative.
• The layer is removed using any solvent.
• Clean thoroughly and wipe the part dry after finishing work.
• Now you can put the disk in a new place and check the runout.
• The permissible runout is no more than 0.15 millimeters.
• If the value is exceeded, this can lead to an increase in the sensitivity of the brake pedal, as well as the formation of vibrations during braking.

Installation and testing

Before changing brake discs, make sure that the problem with the brake system lies precisely in them. There are a number of other problems that are typical for the “ten” and all cars in general. A full diagnostic will be required so that the replacement is not in vain.

Adjustment

In fact, installation is performed in the reverse order of disassembling the brake discs. Therefore, there should not be any special problems.

But checking functionality is a more important and, to a certain extent, complex issue.

The first thing that experts advise is a full running-in of new discs. To do this, you need to travel about 500 kilometers. In this case, you need to brake smoothly, without making sudden impacts on the brake pedal. If this is not done, defects may form on the disks, and the cause will be simple overheating.

What does it look like

There are two main types of brake discs. The first type is ventilated, consisting of two rotating parts with special blades that allow excess heat to be removed from the wheel. The second option is with gas outlets. There are also perforated wheel rims, equipped with holes to allow water and dirt to escape from the wheel, as well as collapsible rims.

New brake disc VAZ 2110

The manufacturer installs ventilated structures on the front axle of the “tens”, since the front wheels of this car are driven and therefore receive a higher load. The ventilated disc cools faster, resulting in more efficient braking.

The disc is fixed to the hub, and the wheel is screwed on top of it. During its operation, it heats up and is simultaneously cooled by the incoming air flow. The design of the disc brake system is shown in the diagram.

Diagram of the VAZ 2110 disc brake system

Articles (original)

The VAZ-2110 offers a fairly wide selection of brake discs.

• The original catalog number of the disk is 2110-3501070 (ventilated) or 2110-3501090 (non-ventilated).
• The average cost of a set of two products is 5,000 rubles.

New brake disc on the car.

Analogs

And this is what it looks like in the package (Trialli)

No less popular Trialli brake disc.

In addition to the original parts, the automotive market offers a fairly wide range of analogues, which in terms of quality and cost can cover the needs of any motorist.

Let's look at the table of manufacturers, catalog numbers and average prices for VAZ-2110 brake discs:

As you can see, the automotive spare parts market is quite wide, and if original wheels are expensive, then there is always the opportunity to buy an analogue.

Which disks to choose

As a replacement for the standard ones, you can install brake discs with perforations and additional ventilation.

• Standard Lada wheels cost around 2 thousand rubles.

• Discs with notches cost around 2.5 thousand rubles.

• Discs with notches and additional ventilation cost around 3 thousand rubles.

Catalog numbers of standard brake discs

Below is a table that contains data on the most popular manufacturers of foreign similar spare parts. They are distinguished not only by diameter and price, but also by quality; Almost all of them are sold in sets.

How long does it last

Typically, the first replacement of discs coincides with a similar procedure for brake pads. The wear of a disc is judged by its thickness, and how quickly the discs become unusable depends on your driving style. As a rule, this takes not even months, but years. There is also a dependence on which manufacturer the pads are installed. Some of them wear out discs faster.

The permissible wear of the brake disc on the “ten”, according to the manufacturer, is 17.8 millimeters for ventilated ones and at least 10.8 for regular ones. Disc wear can be determined visually by the presence of abrasions or by hearing (suspicious noise begins in the wheels). Experts recommend immediate replacement of discs if scratches or cracks appear on their surfaces, and the thickness of the discs becomes less than acceptable. The main thing is that brake discs are replaced only in pairs, since they wear out approximately equally on both sides. Failure to comply with this rule is fraught with loss of vehicle controllability (the car will noticeably drift to the side).

On the VAZ-2110, wear on the front axle discs occurs faster than on the rear ones, since this car is front-wheel drive, and most of the energy during braking is transferred to the front wheels. In addition, as standard, the rear brakes on the “ten” are not disc, but long-outdated drum ones. They are outdated, since most automakers in other countries install brake discs on all wheels. It is worth noting that there is no specific wear and tear time frame for them, so their condition must be monitored by the owner of the car himself. They are supposed to be inspected during scheduled technical inspections. There is nothing difficult about this, since, unlike brake drums, it is easier to inspect the disc on the rear axle; you just need to remove the wheel. It makes no sense to change disks early, and not changing them when the need arises is dangerous.

Replacing a brake disc on a VAZ 2110. Photos, instructions on how to change a brake disc on a 2110

With each seasonal replacement of tires on your car, be sure to pay attention to the condition and degree of wear of your brake discs and brake pads, so as not to miss the moment when you need to replace the VAZ 2110 brake disc and/or pads.

The service life of the front brake discs on VAZ 2110 cars and other models of this family is quite long; they can often last more than 150,000 km. But in any case, nothing lasts forever, and someday they will have to be replaced.

The standard equipment of sixteen valves consists of R14 brake discs. The standard equipment of eight-valve engines is characterized by the presence of R13 brake discs.

You cannot install R14 brake discs on machine discs of thirteenth radius.

When purchasing a brake disc, it is extremely difficult to determine its quality (unless you buy it from a trusted company and order products from well-known world brands). The main difference between a branded disc and a fake or low-quality part is the precision of execution, the quality of the cast iron alloy, and also, in the case of a ventilated disc, the design and thickness of the bulkheads. Only after you start using the disk can you understand more about its quality.

The procedure for replacing a VAZ 2110 brake disc is quite simple and, if you have the necessary tools, will not be difficult. For this we need:

• jack;
• 7" socket head with a small knob;
• head “13”;
• open-end wrench “17”;
• wheel wrench;
• hammer and flat-blade screwdriver;
• metal brush;
• penetrating lubricant WD-40;
• new brake disc original VAZ 21123501070 or its analogues Trialli DF142 and LGR6252.

It should be remembered that the brake disc is replaced on each wheel, i.e. Discs need to be replaced in pairs, just like brake pads. This contributes to uniform and simultaneous production of the part.

Brake discs on the VAZ 2110 are cast iron. The minimum permissible disc thickness during wear is 17.8 mm for ventilated discs and 10.8 mm for non-ventilated discs, the maximum runout along the outer radius is 0.15 mm. Incorrect selection of brake pads leads to damage to the disc; cheap pads with high-resistant linings lead to accelerated wear. Using the pads until they are completely worn out and metal-on-metal friction occurs also reduces the life of the brake discs.

In most cases, discs are thrown away after such “exploitation”, but sometimes they are reanimated on a special machine using a groove. Discs with deep potholes and burrs on the working surfaces, obvious traces of rust, and wave-like wear on the working surfaces are also sent for grinding.

Signs of a brake disc failure may include:

• beating during braking is a symptom of incorrect installation or poor quality disc;
• beating while driving is an indicator of inaccurate manufacturing of the disc or violation of the symmetry of the disc;
• small cracks that form on the disc after braking are an attribute of using a cheap cast iron alloy with low density;
• increased disc wear indicates the use of a low-density alloy and/or low-quality pad;
• the appearance of beating after braking of medium intensity indicates a low-quality cast iron alloy (it lacks the necessary additives).

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Replacement: sequence of actions

To change these parts you will need:

• Hammer.
• The key is 13.
• The key is 17.
• Wire cutters.
• New brake discs and pads.
• Jack.
• Puller for brake discs.

1. New discs and pads must be from the same manufacturer. If you do not replace the pads, they will not be in sufficient contact with the surfaces of the discs, which means braking will not be safe. Work on replacing parts of the brake system must begin by placing the car on a jack and securing it securely.
2. Next you need to remove the wheel. To do this, use a spanner to unscrew the nuts holding it. Now you need to turn the steering knuckle outward and clean the outer surfaces of the disc and brake caliper from dirt.

   The brake disc is immediately visible, you just need to remove the wheel

3. After cleaning, remove the brake caliper from the disc by unscrewing the two bolts with a 17mm wrench. Disconnect the brake cylinder.

   The caliper is held on the disc by two bolts

4. Remove the brake pads and rubber boots. Definitely change the pads and boots, depending on the presence of damage on them. Before removing the disk, treat its surface with a stiff brush and the attachment points of the retaining pins with penetrating lubricant. To make it easier to remove these two screws, lightly tap the disc with a hammer. The screws are unscrewed with a 7mm socket wrench.

   These screws hold the brake disc to the hub

   These screws hold the brake disc to the hub

   To remove the disk itself, there are two ways: use a puller with special grips or remove it gradually, tapping its inner side with a hammer and turning it a quarter turn from time to time. It will be faster and easier to use a special tool. We remind you that discs can only be replaced in pairs.

5. The surface of the wheel hub in contact with the disc must be thoroughly cleaned and treated with a special copper or graphite lubricant that is resistant to high temperatures.

   We knock down the brake disc with a hammer. Slowly

6. We install a new brake disc. Before tightening, clean the retaining screws and lubricate them with the same grease as the part of the hub adjacent to the disk. It is also recommended to clean the caliper guides.
7. After this, all the parts, as well as the pads and rubber boots, are put in their places. The last to be fixed are the brake cylinder and the brake hose. After completing the job, press the brake pedal several times to pump the brake fluid through the line.