Repair of Priora gearbox 2nd gear slips out
I'm not sure if it was necessary to create a topic, but the question is not entirely standard. Gearbox 21120-1700012-20 2012. Total mileage is about 40t. I was driving around the city as usual, I was driving at standard speed, after a traffic light I turn on first, accelerate, not very fast at 20 km/h, I switch to second, but it knocks out, well, I think I didn’t turn it on all the way (this happened on the old top ten), I turn it on again once, it knocked out again, and the third time in the same way.
Nothing ever crunched or knocked out, all gears were always engaged clearly and without any problems. The gearbox was used in different driving styles, there is also a pensioner mode and a “tapkuvpol” mode, but not often.
We looked at the cardan, nothing had moved anywhere and everything was in the same place. But oil leaked from the driveshaft cover, perhaps this has some effect. The oil level is slightly above the maximum (they said you need to pour a little more so that the 5th gear synchronizers are washed).
What could have happened so suddenly? When the engine brakes, it doesn’t knock out a gear; when accelerating slowly into 2nd from low revs, it doesn’t knock it out; when it reaches a certain speed, it starts knocking out again. I understand that the autopsy will show everything, but I would like to know what amount to expect. Could this be due to the clutch? It has a mileage of about 40 tons, it didn’t burn, but it’s not a fact that it’s not a fake.
We urgently need to think about something, in the next day or two, either replace the gearbox, or repair it, or something else.
Source
In the Priora gearbox, setting the second speed
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Why are gears difficult to engage?
First, we suggest finding out what is the reason why reverse or first gear is sometimes or systematically difficult to activate.
If, when you press the clutch pedal and try to turn on the speed, a crunching sound is heard from the car’s transmission, this indicates problems in the operation of the unit.
The reasons why the gear is difficult to engage may be different, let’s consider them in detail:
- If it is difficult to switch between first and second gears, the problem may be that the clutch is not fully activated. On a VAZ Priora, the reason often lies in damage or disconnection of the cable on the pedal. This problem can be identified by diagnosing it. If the pedal is sunk into the floor, the cable must be replaced.
- Failure of the drive rod for controlling the gearbox activation mechanism.
- Damage or incorrect operation of the transmission's torque rod.
- Loosening the fixing bolts on the gear selector rod lever or on the hinge. It is necessary to determine the reason why the screws may have become loose.
- Making mistakes when adjusting the gear activation drive.
- Failure or damage to plastic components that are installed on the Lada Priora gearbox control drive.
- Mistakes made when adjusting the scenes. This unit on the VAZ Priora is designed to connect the gearbox to the selector in the car interior. As a result of long-term use, the plastic bushings on the rocker could wear out.
- Failure of synchronizer elements. These mechanisms are made in the form of brass bushings, which are used for more simplified gear shifting. Brass is a soft metal and will wear out over long periods of use. If the first and reverse gears are difficult to engage, and the reason lies in the synchronizing elements, when you try to change gear, an unpleasant crunching or grinding noise will be heard. When there are no problems with activating gears, but there is an uncharacteristic sound when the gearbox is operating, then in the future you will encounter difficulty changing gears.
- Failure of bearing elements due to damage or wear. This type of malfunction is not common, but over time the bearings wear out, so every car owner can encounter it. If a part breaks, one of the transmission pulleys is no longer able to rotate, which leads to problems when activating speeds. Usually we are talking only about the first gear.
- Failure of the box shaft. This unit is not subject to wear or critical loads during its entire service life, but it may break due to a manufacturing defect. Even minor errors made by the manufacturer when assembling the vehicle can lead to shaft failure. Because of this, the car owner will face the problem of not only difficulty engaging first gear, but also a breakdown of the transmission unit as a whole.
- The reason may lie in the car's engine mounts. The power unit hangs on them and is connected to the transmission. During long-term use of the car, the fastening fails or is unscrewed from its seat. This leads to sagging of the car engine or transmission. As a result of subsidence, damage to the backstage may occur.
- Failure of the clutch fork.
- Clutch basket malfunctions. This assembly breaks due to wear or damage to the petals. The “spider” of the basket can also fail. This element is a bearing mechanism that is fixed on several stretch marks. If they tear, they cannot fully stay on the basket, which leads to difficulties in changing gears. Due to damage to the paddles, it will be impossible to release the clutch disc. If the disk itself is worn out, this will lead to the appearance of wear. When the wear of the part is too great, it will be impossible to switch on the speed.
- Damage to the ball joint or spherical spring.
- Often such problems occur as a result of changing the transmission fluid. The main feature of the Priora gearbox is that the gear ratios in the first and second stages of the unit differ as much as possible. When the driver changes gears, it is necessary to wait for the input shaft to slow down during the process. If it takes longer than usual to slow down, it may be due to low viscosity lubricant or slight underfilling.
Gearbox Lada Priora
First gear is difficult to engage in Priora
Home » Miscellaneous » First gear does not engage well on a Priora: causes and solutions Home page » Transmission » First gear does not engage well on a Priora: causes and solutions Problems when shifting gears in a car lead to a decrease in the comfort of its operation.
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Malfunctions of this kind are usually associated with the transmission and errors made during its operation.
In this article, we will look at the reasons why first gear is difficult to engage on a Priora and how this problem can be solved. First, we suggest finding out what is the reason why reverse or first gear is sometimes or systematically difficult to activate. If when you press the clutch pedal and When you try to turn on the speed, a crunching sound is heard from the car’s gearbox, this indicates problems in the operation of the unit. Reasons why transfer
Priora speed sensor in gearbox
Vehicle characteristics: The vehicle dimensions are as follows: body length - 3118, width - 1100, height - 1754 mm. The wheelbase is 2503 mm. Ground clearance 209 mm. The car is equipped with a hybrid power unit. The 4-cylinder engine is equipped with a system that provides engine power output. There are 4 valves per cylinder. The diameter of one cylinder is 74 mm, the piston stroke is 75 mm. The engine crankshaft accelerates to 5000 rpm. Maximum torque is maintained up to 5000 rpm.
Criticism of a car owner named Federigo: In general, it’s a good car. I go fishing with an overnight stay, we sleep together in the car, there’s enough space. I put all my things in a tent, inflate a 1m*2m air mattress, move the front seats all the way, the distance is 2 meters. The cross-country ability is good on sand and mud, but, as Vysotsky sang, you need to get out in your own way. I bought winter tires 225*70*16, they are 30 mm larger in diameter, the cross-country ability is generally excellent, although gasoline consumption has increased
How to fix the problem
If the gearbox on a Lada Priora refuses to work normally, it is necessary to disassemble and repair the unit. Below are instructions that will prompt you to solve some problems.
How to remove manual transmission
Dismantling the transmission is carried out as follows:
- Drain the gearbox oil. Drive the car onto a flat surface, into a garage with a pit or onto an overpass. Climb under its bottom and find a plug for draining the working fluid; place a container under the hole into which the “working off” will be drained. Unscrew the bolt with a wrench and wait about one hour until the fluid is completely out of the system. After this, the transmission is dismantled.
- The next step is performed in the salon. Under the control panel there is a fastening nut of the cable housing; it is connected directly to the pedal. Unscrew the nut with a size 8 wrench. After unscrewing, you can remove the stop from the bracket.
- Remove the locking assembly, as well as the housing of the driven pulley lining wear compensation mechanism; these components are connected to the so-called pedal pin. To dismantle, use a screwdriver with a Phillips head; the tool must be used to pry off the mechanism. Remove the plastic bushing from the pedal and inspect it carefully. The presence of damage and defects indicates the need to replace the part.
- Then the seal on the cable sheath is removed; this component is located in the engine compartment. Remove the tip from the fork by moving it forward in advance as the machine moves.
- Unscrew the nut that secures the tip to the bracket in the gearbox. This nut will require a 17mm wrench. Remove the cable end from the fastening hole. After this it can be removed. Remove the plastic plug and remove the plug with wires from the speed controller.
- Unscrew the three screws securing the crankcase cover; this will require a 10mm wrench. The cover is removed. A reliable support should be placed under the power unit of the machine. Unscrew the nut that secures the rear of the engine mount to the bracket; this will require a 15mm wrench.
- Remove the upper limiter of the rear engine mount cushion. Unscrew the screws that secure this element to the car body. Remove the cushion along with the restraint device.
- Unscrew the nuts securing the rear motor mount to the transmission. To unscrew, you will need a 13mm wrench. The number of nuts depends on the year of manufacture of the car. Using a size 8 wrench, unscrew the upper fixing screw, and then remove the rear support bracket.
- Remove the plastic plug and remove the block with wiring from the reverse optics activation mechanism. Unscrew the screw that secures the gear shift device hinge on the rod; this is where the speed selection takes place. To dismantle, use a 10mm wrench.
- Unscrew the screws securing the torque rod. Also unscrew the bolts that hold the front wheel hubcaps and remove them using a flat-head screwdriver. There are rubberized seals on the removed parts; be careful not to lose them.
- Using a 30mm wrench, remove the wheel retaining screws and wheel nuts. When performing this task, the vehicle must be on the ground and not on an overpass or lift. Secure the vehicle in place by lifting the parking brake lever. Support the rear wheels.
- Using a jack, lift the front of the car and remove the wheels. Then completely unscrew the hub nuts and remove the washers installed under them. Dismantled parts (we are talking about nuts) must be replaced. Disconnect and remove the rotating devices from the suspension arms, before doing this you should unscrew the mounting screws, use a 17 key. Remove both drives by pressing them out of their seats. Place a support under the gearbox to avoid damaging the unit.
- Unscrew the screws securing the transmission to the motor; this will require a 19mm wrench. Then move the unit as far as possible. The gearbox removal procedure is complete. Assembly is carried out in reverse order.
Gearbox of the Lada Priora car
When removing the gearbox, its further inspection and repair, it may be necessary to disassemble this unit. In order not to damage structural elements, the established algorithm of actions should be followed:
- First of all, you should remove the box from the car;
- We clean it from dirt;
- Remove the oil level indicator;
- Detach the front and back covers;
- Disconnect the synchronizer;
- Disconnect the drive gears;
- Disconnect the input and output shafts at the same time;
- If necessary, further disassembly of the primary and secondary shaft is carried out.
Video “How to solve the problem of poor gear shifting?”
The Avto-Blogger channel made a video that describes all the nuances of poor gearing in a car when the engine is running and gives recommendations for solving such a malfunction.
I've read a lot about this in the last hour and am confused about what needs to be done. And my situation is the following, I squeeze the clutch, the speed is tight... but it turns on (but very hard) with the second one in the same way, I also remember the words of the master at 15 thousand like turn it on through the second one), so now it’s not possible to turn it on through the second one, well, if it does to overcome this tight inclusion, then the subsequent times 1st and 2nd come in so that it breaks into a smile (very easily), there used to be moments when if you switched super sharply there was a crunch, for example from 1st to 2nd, but somehow I got used to it and everything went away, oil in korobos it is replaced by semi-synthetics.
Gearbox for Lada Priora
The Lada Priora car attracts many potential buyers with its sophisticated appearance. The car can be equipped with a 16-valve power unit (1.6 liters). Initially, a 5-speed manual transmission was installed; in 2021, automatic transmission became available. This car has front-wheel drive. In basic configurations there is an 8-valve 1.6-liter power unit (VAZ 21114). The car produces 87 horsepower. Fuel consumption is optimal in all cycles.
The gearbox can be filled with TM 412 fuel. You should pay attention to the 75-80W version, which belongs to the GL-4 group. Its advantage is that it has excellent viscosity-temperature characteristics. If you use low-quality fluid, noise and crunching noise may soon occur from the gearbox. The replacement procedure can be done with your own hands.
Why might there be such interruptions?
The gearbox of any car is one of the most important components of the vehicle. Breakdowns in it can occur both due to improper operation and due to driving on bad roads. If on your Priora the first gear does not engage well or does not engage at all, then this is due to a breakdown of the gearbox.
VAZ Priora car
If your car was purchased second-hand and not from a showroom, then there is nothing to be surprised about. In any car, sooner or later the problem of unstable gear shifting may arise. Moreover, if at the beginning of the problem the speed is turned on, but poorly, then in the future the gearbox lever may not respond at all to the driver’s attempts. Of course, this is not very pleasant, because not every car enthusiast can move from a stop in second gear, and the situation on the road does not always allow this.
Let's consider the main malfunctions that may occur when it is difficult to change gears in a VAZ 2170 car:
- incomplete disengagement of the clutch. On Priors, the mechanical clutch cable can fly off. This can be determined very quickly: if the cable breaks, then the clutch pedal in the car will simply be recessed into the floor;
- failure of the gear drive control rod;
- failure of jet thrust;
- the fastening screws on the hinge or lever of the speed selection rod have become loose for some reason;
- incorrect adjustment of the gearbox speed shift drive;
- The service life has expired or the plastic parts in the gearbox control drive have failed;
VAZ Priora gearbox disassembled
- the link is poorly adjusted. This device in the car performs the function of connecting directly the gearbox with the lever in the cabin. Also, the plastic bushings on the rocker may wear out;
- synchronizer malfunction. Synchronizers are brass bushings designed for easier gear shifting. Because brass is a soft material, it can wear away over time. To understand that it is the synchronizers that have failed, when it is difficult to switch gearbox speeds, you will regularly hear an unpleasant crunching or grinding noise. If you only hear sound from the gearbox, but the gears are switched without problems, then be prepared to soon encounter difficult gear shifting;
- bearing failure. The problem is not so common, even rare, but nevertheless occurs. If the manual bearings are jammed, then one of the gearbox shafts may stop rotating, as a result of which not all speeds can be engaged. As a rule, this problem only appears when first gear is engaged;
- gearbox shaft malfunction. This element is not subject to physical wear or heavy loads, but the problem may be a manufacturing defect. If minor errors were made during its installation at the factory, the shaft will fail. In this case, not only may it be difficult to engage the first gear, but the entire gearbox may fail. As a result, the vehicle owner is subject to expensive repairs.
It’s worth noting right away that there is no way to determine a faulty gearbox shaft or bearings at home. Only a competent technician at a service station with expensive specialized equipment will help you do this. Therefore, if you encounter problems shifting the gearshift lever, then you can only hope that the problem lies in the adjustment.
Gearbox lever of a VAZ Priora car without a casing
In the Priora gearbox, setting the second speed
Disassembly of the gearbox on a Lada Priora car is carried out to replace failed elements. Prepare a standard set of tools, remove the box from the car and perform the following sequence of actions:
- Having removed the box, we clean it of dirt and place it on a workbench convenient for disassembly.
- We take out the dipstick for monitoring the oil level in the crankcase.
- Using a ten key, unscrew one bolt and two nuts securing the clutch cable bracket and remove it.
Causes and solution to the problem of unstable engagement of first gear on Priora
Author:VAZ Priora cars have replaced the flagships of the domestic manufacturer. Recently, more and more adherents of Russian cars are switching to Priora. But in these vehicles, as in any other, certain malfunctions may occur, especially when it comes to. Today you will find out why the Priora is bad and how to fix this problem. Contents [ Expand ] [ Hide ] The gearbox of any car is one of the most important units of the vehicle.
Breakdowns in it can occur both due to improper operation and due to driving on bad roads. If the first gear on your Priora does not engage well or does not engage at all, then this is due to a breakdown of the gearbox. If your car was purchased second-hand and not from the showroom, then there is nothing to be surprised about.
Why reverse gear does not engage (or is difficult to engage) on LADA
23 838 Reverse gear rarely engages the first time, and the process itself is accompanied by a crunching sound?
In any car, sooner or later the problem of unstable gear shifting may arise.
Owners of not only Lada Priora, Kalina and Grant models, but also modern Lada Vesta and XRAY cars face similar problems. Let us tell you what is the cause of this disease. The peculiarity of the reverse gear on LADA cars is that it does not have synchronizers. Therefore, the problem of engaging reverse speed is most often due to the fact that the gear gets caught on a tooth.
What to do if reverse gear does not engage: If you feel that the reverse gear has not reached, release the clutch a little, the gear will move and the gearshift lever will be inserted all the way. After releasing the clutch, try to engage reverse gear after 2-3 seconds.
Try depressing the clutch and putting it in neutral, then releasing the clutch, and then again depressing and engaging the reverse. Try engaging reverse gear at a different speed.
Priora, 1st and reverse gears
What to do and how to engage the transmission. The second squeeze is not appropriate. In similar topics, they often throw this link or say that this is a synchronizer for 1st and second gears, or they say that this is the speed structure. Discussion closed by moderator in Priora, because the clutch drive is also self-adjusting. These are gear shift and clutch actuators, which are bad when prioritizing small holes at cruising speed.
Low effort to engage gears by 2.53 times. We changed them when it is not possible to engage reverse gear. I also noticed that I had to engage second or third gear, as promised a lot of letters, they put it back together and nothing changed.
What to do?
Next, we will look at several ways to solve the problem that can be done at home. The process of repairing a transmission is not such a simple task, so if you are not confident in your abilities, then do not try to do it yourself. It is better to contact specialists, because if you make even a small mistake, it can develop into more serious problems in the future.
Tools
Regardless of what kind of breakdown you have, prepare in advance all the necessary tools that you may need to disassemble the gearbox:
- slotted screwdriver;
- a set of heads for unscrewing bolts;
- set of wrenches;
- mounting blade;
- hammer;
- pliers with thin jaws;
- Phillips screwdriver;
- Litol lubricant;
- jack;
- container for draining transmission oil from the gearbox;
- technological plug for the hole in your robotic gearbox. A set of tools for dismantling and repairing the VAZ Priora gearbox
Step-by-step replacement instructions
Removing the manual transmission
- First of all, before disassembling the gearbox, it is necessary to drain the transmission fluid from the gearbox. To do this, find an oil drain hole under the bottom of the vehicle, place a previously prepared container and unscrew the plug. Wait 40-60 minutes until the oil is completely drained. Now you can begin dismantling the gearbox.
To begin, find in the cabin under the instrument panel the fastening nut of the clutch cable housing, which is connected to the pedal. It needs to be unscrewed. To do this, you will need an "8" socket or wrench. When the nut is unscrewed, remove the stop from the bracket.
- Then you need to dismantle the locking element and the housing of the wear compensation device for the driven shaft linings from the clutch pedal pin. To do this, take a slotted screwdriver and pry out the element.
- Now remove the plastic bushing from the pedal and then inspect it. If the bushing shows signs of wear or any physical damage, the bushing should be replaced. Before installing it directly, take “Litol” and lubricate the element so that it does not become dry.
- Next, dismantle the rubber seal of the clutch pedal cable sheath - it is located in the engine compartment.
- Then you need to remove the end element from the cable fork, after pulling it forward in the direction of travel of the vehicle.
Gearbox of the Lada Priora car
The differential box contains two satellites and two side gears, into the splined holes of which the shanks of the inner CV joints of the wheel drives are inserted. The satellites are installed on an axle secured in the differential box with retaining rings. The main gear driven gear is pressed onto the differential box and is bolted to the box. The differential box rotates in two tapered roller bearings, the inner rings of which are pressed onto the differential box, and the outer rings are pressed into the gearbox and clutch housings. On the right side, behind the bearing, on the differential box there is a speed sensor master ring. The preload in the bearings (0.25 mm) is adjusted by selecting the thickness of the ring installed in the gearbox housing housing under the outer ring of the differential bearing on the left side. The gearbox communicates with the atmosphere through a breather located in its upper part.
The input shaft is made as a block of drive gears, which are in constant mesh with the driven gears of all forward gears. The gears of all forward gears are helical, and the reverse gears are spur gears. The gears of the 1st–4th gears and reverse are made integral with the input shaft, the gear of the 5th gear is installed on the shaft splines and secured with a nut. The secondary shaft is hollow; oil is supplied through it to the driven gears. The shaft contains driven gears and forward gear synchronizers, as well as the main gear drive gear.
Why does the 2nd speed of the Priora slip out?
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Help, friends.. I don’t know what to watch anymore.. The question is more for the experts
This is not the first time I’ve been going through the box on my swallow, but this is the first time I’ve encountered something like this. (VAZ 2112)
It started quite abruptly. The second gear sticks in and locks, but when the clutch is released it immediately goes into neutral..
Opening the box showed: A broken ear of the synchronizer hub for 1-2 gears, small jams of the teeth of the second (including the engagement with the clutch), and also at the clutch itself, respectively. wear of the 1st-2nd gear shift fork on the 2nd side. Broken tooth of the third gear, broken tooth on the gear of the main differential pair.
Replaced with a new one: Second gear Block ring of the second clutch 1-2 gears assembly (i.e. + hub with retaining springs) 1-2 gear shift fork rod of the 1-2 gear fork (too annoying) plus, of course, the third gear and GP gear on the differential)
result: everything is as it was before the bulkhead. The second one sticks in and comes out immediately after releasing the clutch.. if you release it sooooo slowly, it won’t fly out, but if you half-add the gas, it goes straight to neutral..
People please tell me what to do. Today the second gear started to fly out... it engages, but as soon as you release the clutch, it immediately crashes out (((Mileage 30350... Before that I went to the dealer, about 1000 years ago I did the maintenance myself. Now I’m thinking what to do... and the warranty seems to be up to 30500 (provided they don’t notice the homemade maintenance =)))
what to do? please advise!
Lada Priora gearbox repair
As a result, 2nd gear gear, 1st-2nd gear clutch, 1st-2nd gear fork, 3 pcs. synchronizers were purchased and replaced. Thrust bearings 2 pcs. Gearbox seals Gearbox gaskets SHELL oil, some new one, I forgot the name, 75w90 in general, synthetic :)
There were problems with 2nd gear initially, from the moment of purchasing this Lada Priora. Well, how can I say the problem - at first it didn’t turn on at all, then it started turning on with a crunch (we’re talking about a quick start and switching from 1st to 2nd at 6000-6500 rpm, there were no problems during normal driving). I got there :) The second gear began to fly out, and it was impossible to hold it in place even if I held it tightly with my hand - the car jerked violently and did not want to go. I drove almost like in a video recording of one of the blogs of a well-known person - 1-3-5 DAL GONE