Installing a Niva generator on a classic
To the list of articles VAZ2101-2107
Installing a generator from Niva on a classic (30 Amperes)
We install a generator from an injection field (engine 21214) on a traditional VAZ. The article is naturally already floating around the web, but I think it would be useful to publish it again since the topic of the dilemma discussed in the forums, increasing the current of the on-board network, is a burning issue. The installed generator has slightly different fasteners, and the current it produces is eighty (eighty) amperes.
1. What you need to have for installation.
1.1 Generator mounting bracket 21214-3701650.
1.2 Compensating bushing for mounting the generator two thousand one hundred ten (rubber silent block, I did not find the number in the catalog). complete with counter-shaped washer 2110-3701638 (at least in Kemp it is this that is sold under this number, and not the bushing assembly).
1.3. Generator mounting bolt 2110-3701376 with nut 2110-3701686 (a grower doesn’t seem to be needed, but there’s enough space to put it).
1.4. Additionally, bolt M10×1.25×20 (15970521). My old bracket was fastened with 2 bolts.
1.5. Tension bar 21214-3701635.
1.6. Bolt M8×25 with nut 2110-3701686 (like the lower mount of the generator).
1.7. Instrument and beer :).
2. Step-by-step procedure for replacing the generator.
2.1. Remove the split iron bushing installed in it from the twenty-one thousand two hundred fourteen bracket and install a silent bushing in its place (with the iron side inward).
2.2. Remove the generator.
2.3. Remove the sixty one contact extension (excitation winding) from it under the protection cover. In general, you can do it without the help of others :).
2.4. Unscrew the old bracket from below (head with 17, two or three bolts).
2.5. Unscrew the old bar on top (17 head, one nut).
2.6. Hang the newest bar. but don’t fix it completely, let it dangle.
2.7. Secure the new bracket with the silent insert inserted into it (iron ring inside).
2.8. Hang up generator 214, having previously placed the excitation winding contact extension on it (so as not to do this by touch). Insert the bolt, put on the shaped washer (with the ribs facing inward, obviously) and tighten with the nut (not very well).
2.9. Put on a belt. By the way, it is noticeably easier than on 213 to insert a bolt into the bar and the upper ear of the generator and tighten it (not all the way, again).
2.10. Completely tighten the fastening of the bar to the engine.
2.11. Pull the belt, fix the ear fastening to the bar, fix the lower fastening.
2.12. Put the wires back on.
2.13. Having drunk a beer earlier, get excited and enjoy the fact that you are alive. z.y. I haven’t installed it myself yet, but what is described is completely realistic. And I have plans to do a replacement.
To the list of articles VAZ2101-2107
Step-by-step procedure for replacing the generator. Option two is not complete
3.1. Remove the old generator, mounting bracket (pictured) and generator tension bar.
3.2. Remove the split iron bushing installed in it from the twenty one thousand two hundred fourteen bracket.
3.3. Install the twenty one thousand two hundred fourteen bracket in place of the old bracket.
3.4. Install the newest tension bar.
3.5. Remove the silent ring with 2 rings from this bolt.
3.6. Install it in a bracket that is already attached to the block.
3.7. Everything else is simple. As usual, we install the generator, tighten the bolt on the bracket from the bottom, put on the belt, tighten it, tighten the generator with a tension bar using an M8x25 bolt with a nut and a groover.
3.8. Now connecting. On the driver's side, under the hood, a voltage regulator is attached to the fender; two wires are connected to it; we disconnect them from the regulator and isolate them.
3.9. On a new generator there are only two places for connection, a bolt and a terminal. Just like on an ancient generator, we place a terminal on the bolt; tighten it with a nut and put the rubber casing on the bolt. As for the other two wires going to the generator, we place the yellowish wire on the remaining terminal of the generator, and we also insulate the grayish one (it was not attached to the brushes of the old generator) and leave it dangling.
READ How to Change Thresholds on a VAZ 2110
3.10. And one last thing. There is a RS-702 relay under the hood on the passenger side; it must be replaced with the purchased RS-527. We connect in the same way as the old one was connected, i.e. contact eighty five to 85, eighty six to 86, etc.
3.11. It’s probably worth replacing the battery))) and running to start the engine! Everything works for me, it’s one of the few things that works after my hands.
Thanks Tretyakov Oleg “STALKER”, VAZ-2106 Auto Club
More information about connection diagrams The issue of connection is discussed on forums. There are various ideas and advice: from replacing the seven hundred two relay with five hundred twenty seven and connecting three hundred eighty PP wires to soldering in diodes, etc. Therefore, share your experience of which path is correct. And if possible, describe the specific connection step by step, because in diodes, excitation windings, etc. I’m not cutting much yet. Changing one relay is the most common solution. In the tidy, you can solder the light bulb not “-” (as it is there by default), but “from the ignition” with a parallel resistor - then you can connect this wire (which goes from the relay to the light bulb) directly to the generator. You need to connect exactly like this. In principle, you can not use resistors, but then if the light bulb burns out, charging will disappear. Nine - resistors 2W (mlt-2, omlt-2) 100 Ohm
We take the “” wire “15” from the ignition switch (the “” appears when the ignition is turned on) and connect it to one of the contacts of the light bulb. From the other contact of the light bulb we pull a wire to the generator and connect it to terminal 61. EVERYTHING! It will work until the light bulb burns out.
You can connect two 100 Ohm resistors with a power of two W or one 50 Ohm resistor with a power of two W in parallel to the light bulb (actually four W is needed). Then, when the light bulb burns out, charging will not be lost.
Using the method of simple compositions, you can use the original wiring and the original light bulb on the tidy
The mechanism of operation of the two thousand one hundred ten generator is similar to Niv’s. The resistor there is also fifty ohms. You can use any diode for a direct current of 5A.
And here is the connection diagram for the 2110 generator
Shendys › Blog › VAZ classic generators
What are they, how do they differ in connection?
First, briefly about the operation of the generator. Who knows - scroll down to two lines. If you wrap a wire around something metal and apply electricity to it, you get an electromagnet. This should have been taught in physics classes at school. If you move a magnet or electromagnet next to a winding (made of wound wire), then electricity will appear in the coil, electrons will run in one direction along the wire, then in the other. If you connect a light bulb, for example, it will glow. A car generator works the same way.
The generator pulley rotates through the belt, which turns the rotor (moving part), power is supplied to it through the brushes, and an electromagnetic field appears in the winding.
The stator (the stationary part with three windings) surrounds the rotor, and when the rotor with an electromagnetic field rotates, electricity is generated in the stator windings. The current there is variable (it goes one way and then the other), and that’s why there are diodes. They pass current only in one direction and the result is a constant current.
The generation of generator voltage is made with a reserve so that there is no shortage at low speeds and if there are many consumers of electricity. And the generator can produce, for example, 15 Volts, this is a lot, since at 14.5 V the electrolyte in the battery begins to boil away, and the life of the light bulbs will decrease. When the voltage is high, you can notice it by flickering headlights, for example. In order for the generator to produce 13-14.3 V (it’s different for everyone), variable power is supplied to the rotor from the voltage regulator; if 12V goes to the regulator, then it does not reduce the voltage to the rotor, the magnetic field is large and the voltage generated by the generator increases. If it is higher than the desired value, the regulator reduces the voltage to the rotor and the voltage produced by the generator decreases. We look at the diagram of classic VAZ cars with “round headlights” (VAZ-2101, 2102, 2103 and 2106)
The classics come with three types of generators for connecting G221 - used on VAZ-2101, VAZ-2102, VAZ-2103 and VAZ-2106 The relay regulator is located next to the expansion tank. It is protected through fuse 10 (the latest one) at 8 Amperes.
G-222 was used on old VAZ-2104, VAZ-2105 and VAZ-2107; its voltage regulator is installed directly on the generator itself. Powered by fuse 9 (8 Amp). You can put a mounting block where this fuse will be on the rear fog lights, and then the generator will not work. Then you can connect the orange wires of plug 11 together. The charge light was not connected on all machines, since there was a voltmeter.
And with the advent of the VAZ-2108, instead of the G-222, they began to install the 2108 generator (catalog number 2108-3701010). There is no difference in mounting. But it connects a little differently. Ignition occurs through a light bulb in devices with 61 voltage regulators. When the generator produces current, a plus appears on pin 61 and the lamp goes out. Addition from Dragon2140
:
On the 2108 and subsequent modifications of the generator, the excitation goes through the light bulb - if it burns out, then after stopping the engine the generator will not charge at all and accelerate even to the cutoff. If it self-energizes and charges without a light bulb, it means there are broken diodes in the bridge.
You can put, for example, a 2108 generator instead of a G-221 or G-222, and by reconnecting the light bulb everything will work. We supply the plus from the ignition to the lamp, and connect it to 61 generators, and isolate the rest.
The generator belt 2101-1308020 or 2107-1308020 (with teeth) is the same, and both are suitable for both carburetor and injection engines. It's better with cloves.
The injection engine may have a generator 21214-3701010. It is connected in the same way as the 2108 generator. Contact W is not used (it goes to the tachometer with diesel engines). But the brackets through which the generator is attached to the engine are different. And by changing them you can install a 21214 generator. The same belt is used.
That is, there are 4 types of generators, they also come from different manufacturers. Well, it happens that people install completely different generators, from Priora, for example... In a Chevrolet Niva, the generator can stand in place of the distributor, and some Nivavods put a second generator in that place, and you even get two generators on the car 0_o
Many people test the alternator by removing the terminal from the battery while the engine is running. This cannot be done, as the voltage regulator may fail. You need to check with a tester or voltmeter. The wire from the battery to the generator is also a consumable item. If there are any problems with the generator, we try to clean the terminals and check the wires. We check the removed generator using books or information on the Internet. For example, something like this
Installation of the VAZ 2107 Generator. Removal and installation of the VAZ 2107 car generator
Removing the generator from a VAZ 2107 car
1. We install the VAZ two thousand one hundred seven car on an inspection hole or overpass (see “Preparation of the VAZ two thousand one hundred seven car for maintenance and repair”).
2. For easy access to the upper nut of the generator, remove the battery (see “Battery for a VAZ two thousand one hundred seven - removal and installation”).
3. Using a seventeen mm socket wrench with a universal joint and an extension (thirteen mm wrench for generator 9412.3701), unscrew the nut securing the generator to the adjusting bar.
4. Remove the mudguard of the engine compartment (see “Mudguard - removal and installation”).
5. Remove the belt from the generator pulley (see “VAZ two thousand one hundred seven generator drive belt - tension adjustment, replacement”).
6. Disconnect the wire block from the generator output.
7. Sliding the protective cap, use a ten mm wrench to unscrew the nut securing the wire tips to the generator terminal connected to the positive terminal of the battery.
8. Using a nineteen mm socket wrench, unscrew the nut securing the generator to the bracket on the cylinder block.
9. Having removed the bolt, remove the generator. Make sure not to lose the buffer sleeve A in the eye of the cover.
Installing a generator on a VAZ 2107 car
1. Installation of the generator on a VAZ two thousand one hundred seven car is carried out in the reverse order.
2. Adjust the tension of the generator belt (see “Alternator drive belt for VAZ two thousand one hundred seven - tension adjustment, replacement”).
Installation of a generator from VAZ two thousand one hundred ten on a VAZ 2106
Installing a generator from a VAZ two thousand one hundred ten to a VAZ two thousand one hundred six is not only probable, but expedient. The generator from VAZ two thousand one hundred ten is one hundred percent suitable for these purposes. The advantages of the generator from the “ten” are high power and the absence of the need for external excitation.
When I went to the car market, I bought:
1. Generator mounting bracket from Niva 21214.
2. Bolt for securing the generator 2110.
4. Generator pulley 21214
5. A stud, two nuts and a drill with a diameter of 16mm
6. Generator 2110.
Installation of a generator from VAZ two thousand one hundred ten on a VAZ 2106
1. First, we dismantle the old generator, the mounting bracket (see photo) and the generator tension bar.
2. We take out the split iron bushing installed in it from the twenty one thousand two hundred fourteen bracket.
3. Now we install it in the old place of the bracket.
4. Then remove the silent with 2 rings from this bolt.
5. Install it in a bracket that is already attached to the block.
6. Take a new generator and dismantle the 2110 pulley.
7. Now we need to drill a sixteen hole in the twenty-one thousand two hundred fourteen pulley (which we purchased). Attention:
Before drilling, you must make sure that this operation is necessary.
8. The pulley should fit onto the rotor threads.
9. Fix pulley 21214.
10. Next is the usual installation of the generator on the VAZ 2106. Install the generator and tighten it with a bolt on the bracket from the bottom.
11. Take the tension bar that we removed along with the old generator. We level the plane along which the belt tension was adjusted with a hammer (initially it is semicircular). We put on the belt. Next, take the pin, put one nut on it, then the bar itself and tighten it tightly with the second nut. We put the tension bar in its place so that the end of the pin rests against the generator cover. Now let’s start screwing the tension bar itself with a nut; now this particular nut will be used to regulate the belt tension.
12. Now connected. On the driver's side, under the hood, a voltage regulator is attached to the fender; two wires are connected to it; we disconnect them from the regulator and isolate them; we no longer need the regulator.
13. On a new generator there are only two places for connection, a bolt and a terminal. Just like on an ancient generator, we place a terminal on the bolt; tighten it with a nut and put the rubber casing on the bolt.
14. As for the other two wires going to the generator, we place the yellowish wire on the remaining terminal of the generator, and we also insulate the grayish one (it was attached to the brushes of the old generator) and leave it dangling.
15. On the passenger side under the hood there is a RS-702 relay (we don’t need it now either), it needs to be replaced with the purchased RS-527. We connect in the same way as the old one was connected, i.e. contact eighty five to 85, eighty six to 86, etc.
16. Replace the battery and start the engine.
The installation of a generator from a VAZ two thousand one hundred ten on a VAZ two thousand one hundred six with your own hands was successfully completed. While you are enjoying the result, I will remind you that the previous article on our website was about replacing the front windows of a VAZ two thousand one hundred six with windows of a VAZ 2107.
Which generator is better to install on a VAZ 2106 - Lada master
The generator of any car, even a diesel one, is the gray eminence under the hood. Without it, the car won't even take a step. It can be annoying when the engine is tuned well and runs within decency, but for some reason the electrical equipment refuses to work properly. If we are talking about our VAZ 2106, then with a high degree of probability the whole problem lies in the G 221 generator, which was installed on the descendants of the Fiat 124.
Electrical diagram of VAZ 2106
As a matter of fact, if we look at the electrical circuit of the VAZ 2106, which we have given below just in case, it turns out that it differs from the 2101 circuit only in the presence of additional electrical appliances, which entailed some changes. And the generator in the base of the six is the same as in the 2101, its name is G 221.
There can be no complaints against it as long as it works. But the fact is that the design of an electric machine is not at all designed to use such a number of consumers. As a result, insufficient current is supplied to the relay regulator, which in turn leads to undercharging and slow death of the battery. Disorder.
How to connect a standard generator G221
This is expressed quite clearly. Especially if the owner installs additional, non-standard consumers in the car that work almost constantly. It can be:
In short, any step that leads to an increase in electrical energy consumption threatens premature battery discharge, even on the road, with the engine running and at high speeds. That’s why it’s worth understanding how the VAZ 2106 generator connection diagram works and what alternatives there are.
Replacing a VAZ 2106 generator with a G222
The easiest option is to replace the standard generator. On new. It makes no sense to talk about the generator design as an electric three-phase synchronous machine. Not about that now. We are faced with the problem of connecting the standard G 221 generator in order to avoid mistakes when installing another, more powerful and stable G 222 generator, which was already installed on the VAZ 2105.
How is it better than the standard six? Actually nothing. With the exception of a few nuances that can be decisive when the load on the on-board electrical circuit increases. It can be installed on a VAZ 2106 engine using one of two methods:
Actually, it’s much easier not to complicate life by altering the wiring, albeit minor, but to take the simple path.
Modification of the G222 generator for the VAZ 2106
Relatively simple. Make some adjustments to the design of the 222nd generator. Externally, these two units are almost identical. They are distinguished only by a built-in battery charging relay. It is installed in the 222nd generator along with the brush block and it is clearly visible from the back, even if you don’t read the markings.
The difficulty of installing a 222 generator is that you need to thoroughly know the connection diagram. After studying all the nuances of the circuit, you can simply connect the standard remote battery charging relay to the new generator without making any changes to the circuit. This is the simplest and most rational way.
The difference in these two generators is not only the presence of an integrated charging relay. The fact is that the G221 operates with an output of 42 A, and the generator from the 2105 G222 produces 50 amperes. The increase in power was achieved by increasing the cross-section of the rotor winding, and structurally, this is the same generator that was installed on all Zhiguli classics.
Checking the functionality of the 2106 power system
In order for the G 222 generator to be installed without making changes to the connection diagram, it is enough to install the brush block from the six generator. It installs instead of the integrated one without any problems. At the same time, it is better to replace the remote charging relay.
Installation of a generator from VAZ two thousand one hundred ten on a VAZ 2106
Installing a generator from a VAZ two thousand one hundred ten to a VAZ two thousand one hundred six is not only probable, but expedient. The generator from VAZ two thousand one hundred ten is quite suitable for these purposes. The advantages of the generator from the “ten” are high power and the absence of the need for external excitation.
When I went to the car market, I bought:
1. Generator mounting bracket from Niva 21214.
2. Bolt for securing the generator 2110.
4. Generator pulley 21214
5. A stud, two nuts and a drill with a diameter of 16mm
6. Generator 2110.
Installation of a generator from VAZ two thousand one hundred ten on a VAZ 2106
1. First, we dismantle the old generator, the mounting bracket (see photo) and the generator tension bar.
2. We take out the split iron bushing installed in it from the twenty one thousand two hundred fourteen bracket.
3. Now we install it in the old place of the bracket.
4. Then remove the silent with 2 rings from this bolt.
5. Install it in a bracket that is already attached to the block.
6. Take a new generator and dismantle the 2110 pulley.
7. Now we need to drill a sixteen hole in the twenty-one thousand two hundred fourteen pulley (which we purchased). Attention:
Before drilling, you must make sure that this operation is necessary.
8. The pulley should fit onto the rotor threads.
9. Fix pulley 21214.
10. Next is the usual installation of the generator on the VAZ 2106. Install the generator and tighten it with a bolt on the bracket from the bottom.
11. Take the tension bar that we removed together with the old generator. We level the plane along which the belt tension was adjusted with a hammer (initially it is semicircular). We put on the belt. Next, take the pin, put one nut on it, then the bar itself and tighten it tightly with the second nut. We put the tension bar in its place so that the end of the pin rests against the generator cover. Now let’s start screwing the tension bar itself with a nut; now this particular nut will be used to regulate the belt tension.
12. Now connected. On the driver's side, under the hood, a voltage regulator is attached to the fender; two wires are connected to it; we disconnect them from the regulator and isolate them; we no longer need the regulator.
13. On a new generator there are only two places for connection, a bolt and a terminal. Just like on an ancient generator, we place a terminal on the bolt; tighten it with a nut and put the rubber casing on the bolt.
14. As for the other two wires going to the generator, we place the yellowish wire on the remaining terminal of the generator, and we also insulate the grayish one (it was attached to the brushes of the old generator) and leave it dangling.
15. On the passenger side under the hood there is a RS-702 relay (we don’t need it now either), it needs to be replaced with the purchased RS-527. We connect in the same way as the old one was connected, i.e. contact eighty five to 85, eighty six to 86, etc.
16. Replace the battery and start the engine.
The installation of a generator from a VAZ two thousand one hundred ten on a VAZ two thousand one hundred six with your own hands was successfully completed. While you are enjoying the result, I will remind you that the previous article on our website was about replacing the front windows of a VAZ two thousand one hundred six with windows of a VAZ 2107.
Sources:
https://tuning-vaz2106.ru/6/vaz-2107-kreplenie-generatora-2107.html https://vazgarage.ru/vaz2106/elektrooborudovanie2106/270-ustanovka-generatora-ot-vaz-2110-na-vaz -2106.html https://vazgarage.ru/vaz2106/elektrooborudovanie2106/270-ustanovka-generatora-ot-vaz-2110-na-vaz-2106.html
