Lower mount of the rear shock absorber VAZ 2107

How to replace rear shock absorbers on a VAZ 2101-VAZ 2107?

Note! The rear shock absorbers on the right and left sides are replaced in the same way, so the entire replacement process will be shown on only one shock absorber!

Removal: 1) Before you start, be sure to read the “Important!” section. at the very bottom of the article, maybe it will be useful to you.

2) After reading, we move on to replacement. First, drive the car into the inspection hole or lift it using a lift.

Note! If you will be doing work on a lift, then it is recommended to install some kind of support under the rear axle beam, and then lower the car slightly so that it rests on it. And all this is done so that the rear suspension is slightly loaded, otherwise removing the shock absorber will be very problematic!

3) Next, holding the bolt with one wrench, use the second to unscrew the nut that secures the lower hinge bolt.

4) Then slightly remove the bolt from the hinge and thereby remove the spacer sleeve from it, which is indicated by the arrow.

5) Next, holding the lower part of the shock absorber with your hand, slightly move it away from the bracket and, as a result, remove the spacer sleeve from the bolt.

Note! After these operations, completely remove the bolt from the lower hinge together with the washer!

6) Now get to the top of the shock absorber, and then unscrew the nut that secures the upper hinge.

7) After unscrewing, remove the washer and the outer rubber bushing of the hinge, which is indicated by the red arrow, from the stud.

Replacing the Silent Block of the Front Shock Absorber VAZ 2107 ~ VESKO-TRANS.RU

Replacing front shock absorbers VAZ 2107

New " seven

“It grips the road tenaciously, rolls smoothly, and brakes smoothly even over uneven surfaces. One of the best VAZ models in no way rocks, chatters, or shakes its riders, but carries it as if on the palms of your hands - affectionately, evenly, carefully.

But it costs VAZ 2107 shock absorbers

wear out, the springs sag, the bushings become crushed, and the pleasure of movement comes to an end. Every bump in the road results in knocking, rumble, yaw and thrashing. The braking distance with a faulty suspension has to be spoken about in a chilling whisper - it grows so terribly.

It may seem that repairing a VAZ 2107

, which has lost reliable contact with the road, is incredibly complex and time-consuming.
But struts on a VAZ 2107
are relatively inexpensive,
replacing shock absorber bushings
does not present a technical difficulty;

we
will now tell you the shock absorbers themselves on a VAZ 2107
with your own hands

A common stereotype for diagnosing shock absorbers 2107

(and all other models of passenger cars) using the method of repeated manual pressure on the corner of the body. The goal of the action is to achieve the frequency and amplitude of movements at which the missing performance of shock absorbers (also rubber bands and springs) will manifest itself with knocking, clanging, grinding and random rocking.

In fact, not every junk car exhibits the expected symptoms. Since only the complete destruction of the bushings causes the parts to knock, and the sounded work of the front springs
(crunching, humming, grinding, squeaking) is a sign of fatal damage to the suspension.

Visual inspection of suspension parts and constant monitoring of the driving properties of the car are the real tools of a competent driver. Even small oil leaks around the front shock absorber of the VAZ 2107

– a reason to replace the device; while replacing the steam room on both sides.

Any unusual sounds in the suspension of the VAZ 2107

problems that arise when driving in a straight line or when turning a corner are a signal to inspect the condition of all components and parts. Not convinced of your insight? A visit to the vibration stand at 100 will help you save money and save your life!

Removing the front shock absorber 2107

So, replacing shock absorbers on a VAZ 2107

- the issue is resolved.
There will be repairs! Few tools will be needed. To replace the front shock absorbers
, you will need a jack, stubborn pads and a safety device (see https://www.autodela.ru/main/top/diy/lada_priora_ammort) - or a lift; also a special wrench for the shock absorber rod.

Replacing the front shock absorber sales unit of VAZ 2101-07

I created this video with the help of YouTube Video Editor ()

Replacing the lower silent block of the front shock absorber VAZ 2101-2107

Very briefly about the replacement

lower silent block

of
the front shock absorber VAZ
2101-2107 Very briefly about replacing the lower ...

. or a 6-8 mm open-end wrench; and also open-end wrenches for 13 and 17 mm.

Install chocks and a jack, but do not lift the car. First you need to loosen the wheel bolts.

↑ Rear suspension diagram

1 - spacer sleeve; 2 — rubber bushing; 3 — lower longitudinal rod; 4 — lower insulating gasket of the spring; 5 — lower spring support cup; 6 — suspension compression stroke buffer; 7 — bolt for fastening the upper longitudinal rod; 8 — bracket for fastening the upper longitudinal rod; 9 — suspension spring; 10 — upper spring cup; 11 — upper insulating gasket of the spring; 12 — spring support cup; 13 — rod of the rear brake pressure regulator drive lever; 14 — rubber bushing of the shock absorber eye; 15 — shock absorber mounting bracket; 16 — additional buffer for suspension compression travel; 17 — upper longitudinal rod; 18 — bracket for fastening the lower longitudinal rod; 19 — bracket for fastening the transverse rod to the body; 20 — rear brake pressure regulator; 21 — shock absorber; 22 — transverse rod; 23 — pressure regulator drive lever; 24 — holder of the lever support sleeve; 25 — lever support sleeve; 26 — washers; 27 - spacer sleeve.

Work order

1. If there is no hole or repair overpass, select a flat place with a margin around the machine.

2. The front wheels are tightly fixed on both sides using improvised means (shoes).

3. Lightly loosen the rear wheel bolts on the first side.

4. One side of the car is lifted with a jack and a safety trestle is installed.

5. The wheel is removed.

6. Place a hydraulic jack under the edge of the rear axle and lift it slightly to relax the shock absorber.

7. Unscrew with two 19mm wrenches and carefully tap the bottom bolt of the shock absorber.

8. The jack is completely released so that the bridge hangs on the reaction rods (rods).

9. Using a pry bar or a screwdriver, the spring is removed from its regular place on the stocking and removed (towards you, slightly to the side).

Using a pry bar, carefully remove the rear spring of the VAZ-2107

10. Use a wire brush to clean the landing areas for new parts.

11. Installation of a new spring, scrolling until it fits into the standard groove.

↑ Removing the rear suspension

Raise the rear of the car and place it on stands. Remove the rear wheels.
Disconnect the driveshaft from the drive gear flange.
Disconnect the hydraulic brake hose from the steel tube installed on the axle and take measures to prevent fluid from leaking from the brake system.
Disconnect the rear parking brake cable bracket from the body, remove the front cable release spring and, by unscrewing the locknut and adjusting nut, release the rear cable branch.
Disconnect the rear brake pressure regulator drive rod from the bracket on the bridge beam.
Disconnect the upper ends of the shock absorbers.
Place a hydraulic jack under the rear axle beam. Disconnect the longitudinal and transverse rods from the brackets on the body, lower the jack and remove the axle.

Replacing the front shock absorber on the “seven”

When damaged, front suspension dampers are usually replaced with new ones. Sometimes owners try to repair them on their own, which requires some experience, the purchase of a repair kit and special oil, but only dismountable shock absorbers are suitable for such a procedure. Before you start replacing, you need to decide which elements to install on your car.

Selection of shock absorbers

The question of choosing dampers for the “seven” is quite difficult for many, which is due to the wide variety of such products. The following types of shock absorbers can be installed on the “classic”:

Each type is characterized by its pros and cons and is produced by different manufacturers. It is necessary to select a product based on the operating conditions of the vehicle and the driving style of the owner.

Oily

Although the “seven” is basically equipped with oil shock absorbers filled with hydraulic fluid, many are not satisfied with their performance. The main disadvantage of such dampers is their slow response. If the car moves at high speed, the shock absorber does not have time to return to working condition, which leads to swaying on the springs. Therefore, they are recommended for those owners who do not operate their cars at speeds exceeding 90 km/h.

Gas-oil

Gas-oil shock absorbers use oil and gas, which increases the operating efficiency of the product and improves handling of irregularities. The main working medium is oil, and gas stabilizes operation by removing excess foam and increasing the efficiency of response to changes in road conditions. Equipping Zhiguli cars with such dampers has a positive effect on driving performance. There is virtually no sway at relatively low speeds. Among the minuses, it is worth highlighting omissions during sharp impacts.

Gas-oil with variable hardness

On the “Seven”, as well as on other “classics”, such elements are practically not installed, which is due to the high price. Products of this type are equipped with a special valve with an electromagnet. By means of the valve, it is adjusted to the operating mode of the vehicle and the amount of gas in the main cylinder of the damper is adjusted with a change in the rigidity of the device.

Video: types of shock absorbers and their differences

Manufacturers

During repairs, many owners install standard elements. Those who want to improve the performance of the suspension purchase gas-oil components. However, you have to choose from foreign manufacturers, since domestic ones do not produce such products. The most popular brands include:

Table: analogues of front dampers for VAZ “classics”

Manufacturer	vendor code	price, rub.
KYB	443122 (oil)	700
KYB	343097 (gas)	1300
Fenox	A11001C3	700
SS20	SS20177	1500
Sachs	170577 (oil)	1500

How to remove

To dismantle a faulty shock absorber we will need:

The event consists of the following actions:

Video: replacing front end dampers on classic Zhiguli cars

How to prepare for installation

The process of installing shock absorbers on a VAZ 2107 does not cause any difficulties. However, for proper and long-term operation they need to be prepared - pumped. Since the procedure differs depending on the type of device, we will dwell in more detail on the preparation of each of them.

Bleeding oil shock absorbers

We pump oil-type dampers according to the following algorithm:

Bleeding gas shock absorbers

The procedure for dealing with gas dampers is as follows:

Video: preparing gas-oil shock absorbers for operation

How to put

It is recommended to fully extend the rod before installing the shock absorber. If the damper was removed due to wear of the rubber pads or silent block, we replace them with new ones. Installation is carried out in the reverse order of removal.

If the front shock absorber of your "seven" fails, you do not have to contact a service center for help - the repair can be done on your own without special tools and extensive experience in carrying out procedures of this kind. To replace the damper, it is enough to familiarize yourself with the algorithm of actions and follow them during operation.

A car shock absorber is a device that provides not only comfort, but also safety for the driver and passengers. Shock absorbers ensure that the car's wheels are firmly pressed against the road surface, resulting in body vibrations being reduced to a minimum. The domestic car VAZ 2107 is equipped with shock absorbers, which are installed in the chassis structure near each of the wheels. Let's look at what it means to replace shock absorbers on a VAZ 2107 in detail.

↑ Rear suspension parts

1 — lower longitudinal rod; 2 — rubber bushing; 3 — bracket for fastening the lower longitudinal rod to the body; 4 — spacer sleeve; 5 — upper longitudinal rod; 6 - additional compression progress buffer; 7 - spring; 8 — upper spring cup; 9 — suspension compression stroke buffer; 10 — upper insulating gasket of the spring; 11 — shock absorber; 12 — lower insulating gasket of the spring; 13 - transverse rod.

Helpful information

A short rod unscrewed from the stocking will facilitate dismantling and installation. For ease of assembly, a new rubber spacer and a metal lining are fixed to the spring with electrical tape or tape. Reinforced springs with VAZ 02 - 04 will increase the load capacity, but the car will become rougher to drive. It is easier to replace the torque rods with new ones without wasting time pressing the bushings in a vice. When experimenting with the height of the springs, you should remember the length of the shock absorber stroke. They may have to be lengthened or different ones used. During disassembly, the brake hose receives extra stress, which can lead to damage.

Read, it may come in handy: How to raise or lower the suspension. Tuning and modification of the chassis

Follow safety precautions and replacing rear springs will not be a hassle.

↑ Installing the rear suspension

Installation of the rear suspension is carried out in the reverse order of removal. In this case, install class A springs (with yellow markings) on the suspension. In exceptional cases, when there are no springs of this class, the installation of springs of class B (with green markings) is allowed.

To prevent damage and over-tightening of the elastic bushings of the rod hinges and shock absorbers:

load the rear of the car so that the distance from the axle beam to the body side member, measured 100 mm from the crossbar bracket, is 125 mm;
Using a torque wrench, tighten the nuts on the bolts securing the longitudinal and transverse rods, as well as on the pins securing the shock absorbers to the bridge beam and to the body.

Shock absorber malfunctions

Any car malfunction always manifests itself in the form of extraneous noise, unusual behavior of the vehicle or other signs. Problems with shock absorbers also have certain symptoms, and if they are detected, you should not delay replacing the dampers.

Oil leakage

The most common sign that a shock absorber has become unusable is a fluid leak. Leaks on the body indicate a loss of seal in the oil reservoir. As a result, not only leaks occur, but also air leaks. In this case, the damper rod has free movement, i.e. it moves without any effort, and the part loses its functionality. If signs of smudges have just appeared on the shock absorber, it will serve a little longer, but you should not leave it without attention and it is better to replace it in the near future.

Body rocking

Since springs and shock absorbers work together to dampen vibrations that occur when driving over bumps, contact with the road may be lost if the damper fails. In this case, shaking increases, the body sways, and the level of comfort decreases. The car becomes rolly, and when it hits obstacles it sways for some time. The easiest way to check the shock absorbers of your “seven” is to press the wing, try to rock the body, and then release it. If the car continues to swing on the springs for some time, then this is a clear sign of a faulty damper.

Body roll

One symptom that indicates problems with the suspension shock absorbers is body roll when cornering. This behavior of the car negatively affects safety, since the quality of braking, as well as vehicle control, suffers. If liquid has leaked from the damper, it will be quite difficult to keep the car turning, which is especially dangerous in winter. When the mileage of the products in question is more than 60 thousand km, which also depends on the quality of the parts themselves and the operating conditions of the vehicle, handling may noticeably deteriorate. But since the process does not occur at one moment, but gradually, the driver practically does not notice this and rolls can be perceived as a normal phenomenon.

Suspension noise

Extraneous sounds in the suspension, uncharacteristic of its operation, indicate the need to check and service this mechanism. When dampers and their bushings wear out, the ability to effectively support the weight of the machine is lost. In addition, so-called shock absorber breakdowns often occur.

Suspension breakdowns are metal elements touching each other, which leads to a knocking sound.

Uneven or increased tire wear

If it has been noticed that the tire tread has uneven wear or wears off too quickly, then this is a clear sign of problems with the suspension. With faulty shock absorbers, the wheel moves vertically with a much greater amplitude, which leads to uneven tire wear. When driving, extraneous noise appears on such wheels.

Plunging when braking

Among car owners there is such a thing as “the car bites.” If the dampers fail, the front of the car will dive during braking, and the rear will sag when accelerating. This is explained by the fact that parts that have become unusable do not cope with their function, that is, they do not support the weight of the machine.

Broken fastening

One of the infrequent breakdowns of the front shock absorbers is the breakage of the lower eye. The reasons for this phenomenon may be different:

installation of low-quality parts;
making changes to the standard suspension design.

What is a shock absorber

A shock absorber is a component of the suspension that acts as a damper for vibration impulses. The scope of work tasks for shock absorbers includes the following:

elimination of vertical swing;
ensuring vehicle stability while driving;
ensuring good grip on the road surface.

As you can see, this part is very significant, and when it fails, it has the most negative impact not only on driving comfort, but also on driving safety, because faulty shock absorbers invariably lead to an increase in braking distance and worsen traction, which becomes very dangerous along the way.
In addition, when worn out, they cause rapid wear of other parts and systems, in particular the brake system components.

That is why it is so important to carefully monitor the condition of the suspension, and, after the working period has expired or in the event of a malfunction, replace the defective part with a new one.

We'll talk about this later, but for now let's figure out what kind of shock absorbers there are, and, since we decided to talk about such a domestic model as the VAZ 2107, which of the existing components are suitable for this car.

Types of shock absorbers

Today, three types of shock absorbers are used for VAZ cars:

Oily. This type of unit is suitable for calm, comfortable driving for drivers who primarily value order and regularity. They work well on city roads, where traffic speed is limited and there are no treacherous potholes or potholes. But, if you prefer speed or extreme driving on country roads, then you need to look for something else.
Gas-oil classic option. This option is ideal for speed lovers. The design of the device itself provides better protection against impacts falling on the lower part of the car during high-speed driving. True, such units are thirty percent more expensive than just oil ones, but the quality is much higher.
Gas-oil with variable hardness coefficient. When you want to drive on the roads of distant provinces without worrying that the road will turn into a nightmare, then you should give preference to a gas-oil shock absorber of increased rigidity.

It is also worth noting that both versions of gas-oil units guarantee better controllability and the ability to maneuver on sharp turns than oil units.

The quality of the components also depends on the manufacturer’s brand: each company tries to introduce technical innovations into one or another option that significantly improve the characteristics.

So, having decided to replace shock absorbers in order to improve the technical characteristics of the VAZ-2107 car, you can turn your attention to:

Plaza gas-oil shock absorbers, costing about seven hundred rubles;
oil Kayaba, which sell for 620 rubles.
Finwhale are of better quality, also oil shock absorbers, but of higher quality, more durable and guaranteeing greater comfort. They cost about nine hundred rubles.
the most popular option, suitable for all VAZ cars, are SAAZ units, which cost 500 rubles.

Lada 2107 Fighting girlfriend › Logbook › Replacing rear shock absorber bushings

As I wrote earlier, due to the fact that the car was needed urgently, I replaced the bushings with rubber again. I bought BRT, it seems like they should be of good quality, we’ll see how long they go. I did not film the replacement process itself, since doing it without a pit is extremely dirty and inconvenient. All the nuts/bolts were removed without any problems, nothing stuck. The condition of the old rubber bands can be seen in the photo.

The upper ones were still more or less alive, but the lower ones were completely destroyed.

On the advice of a senior fellow vasemaker, I smeared all the new rubber bands and metal bushings with Litol to make them fit easier and squeak less. Let's see if it helps or not.

At the same time, I bought a MANN oil filter in the store; I only trust this company. I bought Lukoil Super oil a little earlier and decided to switch to it.

As a result of the replacement, a big question arose - how to check the performance of the shock absorber? Should it move if you squeeze it with your hands? I couldn’t push or release the left one with my hands; even under my weight it didn’t move. The right one compresses quite easily, it compresses smoothly, without failures, but it is quite difficult to decompress (but it goes). If anyone has any suggestions or ideas on what and how to do next, I’ll be happy to listen.

Sincerely, Lebedyantsev E.S.

Price: 160 ₽ Mileage: 57,000 km

Replacing rubber bushings on rear shock absorbers. VAZ Classic

4 years ago, how to replace the bushings of reaction rods (rods) using a vice and a “bullet” device, tips in the process of replacing bushings.
VKontakte group for VAZ repair: https://vk.com/roman_romanov_pro_vaz_2101_2107 group in Odnoklassniki: https://www.odnoklassniki.ru/group/53320056635494 channel of the author ROMAN ROMANOV: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC7t0qZONFV -UbWI6olSjSGA JOIN US!!!3 years agoHow to determine when to change rubber bushings and rear shock absorbers on a Niva. For all the details about replacing the rear shock absorbers and rubber bushings for the rear shock absorbers, watch this video. And also about the correct tightening of silent blocks and the choice of material - polyurethane or rubber. Checking and replacing rear shock absorbers and bushings. Polyurethane or rubber. Correct tightening of silent blocks. NIVA VAZ. https://youtu.be/4ucwXKz7JFI
Subscribe to Andrey Lapochkin’s channel: “For Yourself.” https://www.youtube.com/user/SamiDlyaSebya1 Here you will find a lot of useful information on the maintenance and repair of the NIVA VAZ 21214, VAZ 21214m, VAZ 21213, Chevrolet Niva. Lots of tips and tricks that you won’t see on other channels. All videos were shot in a detailed style covering the topic of repairing or finding the causes of malfunctions of the Niva car and not only Niva. There are videos for NIVOvod beginners. How to overcome obstacles and dangerous areas on NIVA. The channel has other interesting videos about travel and adventures. Holidays on the Black Sea. Fishing, travel. Underwater filming. Tourism. Jokes, funny stories. Dollar exchange rate analytics. Search for gold, search for treasures. How to pump up your body at home and have time to prepare for the beach season with very little effort, time and money. On the channel you will find many videos on how to start shopping on AliExpress (ALIEXPRESS). Tactics for communicating with sellers on AliExpress (ALIEXPRESS). How to start working with video camera SJ4000, SJ5000. How to make video camera settings SJ4000, SJ5000. How to shoot with video cameras. And much more on various topics.

3 weeks ago

In this video I made myself a super machine from an ordinary pipe and bicycle bushings. Assistant for shopping on Ali: https://tinyurl.com/y7tq2mnu Assistant for shopping (Android): https://tinyurl.com/ya8qcuwl I bought crowns here - https://ali.ski/VF3HY Another computer. crowns - https://ali.ski/YlUZR Large comp. crowns with a large diameter - https://ali.ski/iIX0k My group in VK - https://vk.com/club_madmangroup My live channel - https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCNJQ_gUTQq7OS2_uN0kbFMQ You ask, how I got an idea for making this cutting machine? It’s simple, I saw 2 videos on foreign YouTube and decided to repeat a similar mechanism for myself. Only I implemented it in my own way, namely, I added one extra hinge mechanism for lateral rigidity, automated the lifting and lowering mechanism and used bicycle hubs as hinges. As for the bushings, I got them at a purchase price of 1.5 dollars per bushing from a friend of mine. I decided to use them, since the undoubted advantage of these units is the ability to adjust the backlash. To avoid unnecessary talk about the rigidity of the machine, I will say this - it is there, but it is not enough to make precise grooves for assembling furniture products. It is clear that it is elementary to make a mistake of 1 mm, but as for introducing some zest into the manufactured part in the form of milled strips, or working with an overrunning cutter on straight planes, then this will be very useful, and milling the recesses of the groove You can also use a milling cutter very quickly and conveniently, especially on large areas when the width of the area at the router itself is not enough. In total, the machine cost about $35, if you do not take into account the manufacture of a common table that combines 3 machines in one plane. I had been planning this table for a long time, since it is inconvenient to work separately on different machines, and it’s lazy to yank them from place to place, but here everything is different and I already felt it when I was trimming the ends of the laminate when laying it. By the way, I didn’t mention the top of the table, which is made of laminate. The installation was carried out in the same way as in my work area, the tabletop of which was made according to the same principle. The laminate is glued to the main surface and secured on the reverse side with self-tapping screws. For skeptics, I can answer that after 9 months my laminate remained in the same condition, nothing swelled in the work area, so this surface fits very well into the overall appearance of the workshop and copes well with mechanical loads. Track list by Epidemic sound: 1.Yellowbase – Derail 2.Martin Hall – My Last Song (Tigerblood Jewel Remix) (Instrumental Version) 3.Wildson – I Am Better Off (Instrumental Version) 4.Sebastian Forslund – All Around (Young Community) Remix) 5.Andreas Jamsheree – Ghetto Turf 4 6.Ray – Made To Be Free (SLCT Remix) (Instrumental Version)

4 months ago

DIY reverse hammer. After replacing the rear struts, it was a pity to turn them into metal, because any piece of hardware is craft, and a very useful tool that you can make with your own hands; any piece of hardware can be used to make an excellent assistant when repairing a car. The old vase stands have been transformed into a reverse hammer! VK page https://vk.com/id89108701987lol VK group https://vk.com/club166408536 personal channel https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCI_rNzuyiEe2NHP2dSlhE4Q?view_as=subscriber I'm on Drive2 https://www. drive2.ru/users/vitvitmaster/#blog My Instagram https://www.instagram.com/vitvitmaster/

4 months ago

FakeHeader

Comments 18

crappy oil... the shock is checked by machine, not by hand. although according to the symptoms the left one is a corpse. And then, are the shock absorbers oil or gas oil? plus, as a rule, performance is not the main criterion, the main criterion is the presence of oil in the shock absorber... there is no point in lubricating the silent parts with oil, they should not rotate at all when in place. like the metal bushing in the rubber band... looking at the rubber in general, a question arises. how did you travel? With such silents, the bridge dangles like shit from an ice hole, the car jerks from side to side when pedaling the accelerator.

How many people, so many opinions. In my opinion, the oil is good. It's not clear by car. According to the main methods of verification, it is alive, but rather harsh. Ammorts Niva oil. The car behaved stably, did not dangle anywhere, only rumbled sometimes. After the second trip I went to check and saw that my ears were hanging on the lower rubber bands. Well, I changed it right away.

We opened up a couple of engines using Lukoil oil... the bed, the head... everything was covered in an even 3-4 mm layer of soot. dirt just settles in the engine... because... many people say that nivo-shocks themselves are harsher than classic ones, although I don’t know... I haven’t used them... in any case, if they work differently, I would recommend changing them... maybe the speeds were low, since I didn’t notice...