How to change front shock absorbers on a VAZ 2107

Replacing front shock absorbers VAZ 2107

The new “ seven
” holds the road tenaciously, rolls smoothly, and brakes smoothly even over uneven surfaces. One of the best VAZ models in no way rocks, chatters, or shakes its riders, but carries it as if in the palm of your hand - gently, evenly, carefully.

But it costs VAZ 2107 shock absorbers

wear out, the springs sag, the bushings become crushed, and the pleasure of moving comes to an end. Every road unevenness results in knocking, rumble, yaw and throwing. You have to talk about the braking distance with a faulty suspension in a chilling whisper - it grows so terribly.

It may seem that repairing a VAZ 2107

, which has lost reliable contact with the road, is impossibly complex and time-consuming.
However, struts on a VAZ 2107
are relatively inexpensive,
replacing shock absorber bushings
is not technically difficult, and

we’ll now tell you the shock absorbers themselves on a VAZ 2107
with your own hands
.

A common stereotype for diagnosing shock absorbers 2107

(and all other models of passenger cars) by periodically pressing with your hands on the corner of the body. The goal of the action is to achieve the frequency and amplitude of movements at which the insufficient performance of shock absorbers (as well as rubber bands and springs) will manifest itself with knocking, clanging, grinding and arbitrary swinging.

In fact, not every junk car exhibits the expected symptoms. Because only the complete destruction of the bushings causes the parts to knock, and the sound work of the front springs

(crunching, ringing, grinding, squeaking) is a sign of lethal damage to the suspension.

Visual inspection of suspension parts and constant monitoring of the car’s driving performance are truly effective tools for a competent driver. Even minimal oil leaks around the front shock absorber of the VAZ 2107

– a reason to replace the device; moreover, replacing the steam room on both sides.

Any uncharacteristic sounds in the suspension of the VAZ 2107

problems that arise when driving in a straight line or when turning a corner are a signal to inspect the condition of all components and parts. Not confident in your own insight? A visit to a vibration stand at a service station will help you save money and save your life!

Removing the front shock absorber 2107

So, replacing shock absorbers on a VAZ 2107

- the issue is resolved.
There will be repairs! Few tools are required. To replace the front shock absorbers
you will need a jack, thrust pads and a safety device (see https://www.autodela.ru/main/top/diy/lada_priora_ammort) - or a lift; as well as a special wrench for the shock absorber rod.

. or open-end wrench 6-8 mm; and also open-end wrenches for 13 and 17 mm.

Install chocks and a jack, but do not lift the car. The first step is to loosen the wheel bolts.

Raise the VAZ 2107

, install a safety device. Remove the wheel.

In the engine compartment, look for a window that provides access to the shock absorber fasteners. Holding the rod with a special wrench or a 6 mm open-end wrench, unscrew the rod securing nut with a 17 mm wrench.

Under the engine compartment on the lower control arm, locate the bracket that secures the front shock absorber

. To dismantle it you will need a 13 mm wrench.

After unscrewing the nuts, carefully lower the bracket with the shock absorber. There is enough space to easily remove the device if the car is raised 30 cm or more.

Unscrew the bolt securing the shock absorber to the bracket. Remove the metal washer and rubber bushings (cushions) from the rod - perhaps these parts will be useful to you when installing new shock absorbers on the VAZ 2107

.

Installation of front shock absorbers VAZ 2107

The age-old question of whether to repair old or buy new shock absorbers should be resolved ahead of time. Masters know: in many cases, the performance of shock absorbers is restored by replacing parts of the bypass valve, especially since a repair kit is ten times cheaper than a new shock absorber.

To easily disassemble the device with your own hands, you need a special key (a fork with spikes), oil, as well as dexterity and dexterity - that is, certain locksmith skills. And the price of shock absorbers for 2107

not that big.
In general, experienced car owners keep repaired used shock absorbers in their garages - just in case - and during the repair process of the 2107
they try to install new shock absorbers.

The process of installing new shock absorbers on a VAZ 2107

performed in the reverse order to that described during disassembly.

First, the support bracket is attached to the lower eye
2107
front shock absorber . Rubber-metal hinge.

. it is also a silent block, inserted into the eye and pierced by a fastening bolt, usually included in the kit of a new shock absorber. If necessary, the silent block and upper rubber cushions are purchased separately, in addition to the installed shock absorber.

The shock absorber with the bracket attached and the rod extended should be inserted into the appropriate opening. Screw the nuts onto the bracket mounting studs, but do not tighten them completely.

During installation of the front shock absorber

the rod may drop a little, and you will not be able to screw the fastening nut onto it and install all the required bushings and washers. The easiest way to solve the problem is to compress the front suspension spring. Put the wheel in place, lower the car from the jack: the spring will compress and the rod will extend. As a last resort, you can screw a nut onto the rod without installing rubber pads; then pull out the rod, using the nut for easy grip.

After the upper part of the shock absorber is assembled in the standard sequence of washers and cushions, you should tighten the nut (17 mm wrench) while holding the rod (6 mm wrench).

The last step is to tighten the nuts securing the lower shock absorber bracket, as well as the wheel bolts.

Efficiency of the new front shock absorbers of the VAZ 2107

checked on the go or on a vibration stand.

Source

When is it necessary to replace shock absorbers?

Both front and rear shock absorbers on the VAZ 2107 perform the same function. Despite this, these elements differ structurally. The main difference between these elements is the method of fastening, but we will learn more about this when we consider the process of replacing units.

The products in question need replacement in the following cases:

• When the mechanism becomes unusable, that is, it does not have the ability to cushion the car body and smooth out shocks. It is not difficult to detect a malfunction of this mechanism, because in this case it becomes not entirely comfortable in the car interior.
• Presence of oil leaks on the device. You can detect leaks even without removing the product from the car.

If you are convinced that the products in question need replacement, then it’s time to get down to business.

Replacing front shock absorbers on a VAZ 2107

First, let's look at what the process of replacing the front shock absorbers of a VAZ 2107 is. It is important to note that even if only one element has become unusable, it is recommended to replace them in pairs, or even better as a set. The replacement procedure is represented by the following steps:

• We recommend placing the car on a pit or overpass and then applying the brakes to the wheels. If there is access from below, then there is no need to use a jack. Otherwise, you will have to use a jack and wheel stands, which will be more labor-intensive.
• Work begins on removal from the engine compartment, that is, there is no need to jack up the front part yet, as this will complicate access to the upper nut of the product. To do this, you need to open the hood and find the product stem. There is a nut screwed onto it, to unscrew it you need to jam the rod itself with a special key. In the photo below, this wrench is indicated by the number “1”, and the number “2” is a regular wrench at “17”.
  Read also:  Which lamps are better to put in the headlights of a VAZ 2114: making a choice
• After unscrewing and removing the nut, you need to remove the washer with the rubber cushion.
• Now you can jack up the front of the car, then remove the wheel and install the spacer. Otherwise, we go down into the inspection hole.
• We find two nuts securing the front device. This mount looks like this, shown below. Using a “13” wrench you will need to unscrew both nuts. This must be done carefully, since there are spring washers underneath. We recommend spraying them with WD-40 first, as they usually do not unscrew easily, and there is a chance of stripping the studs, which will require restoration work.

• After unscrewing both nuts, the unit can be dismantled. To do this, pull its bottom bracket, after which it will fall out.
• Using two “17” keys, you need to unscrew the nut that secures the bottom bracket of the device. This bracket must be screwed to the new product in the same way if it does not have it.
• Now you can begin installing the new element. Before installing the front shock absorbers, you must first extend the rod all the way.
• Initially, the device is fixed at the lowest point by attaching two nuts. After this, the cushion and washer are put on the rod, and then the nut is screwed in. If the car is on a jack, you will not be able to tighten the nut. To do this, you need to lower the car or load the suspension. After this, you can screw the nut all the way.
• At the bottom, you must finally secure the device with two nuts.

Replacing the front suspension shock absorber on a VAZ 2107

Today we will publish an article about replacing the front suspension shock absorber on a VAZ 2107 with your own hands. The text will be accompanied by photographs and a detailed description of all actions.

The shock absorber on a VAZ 2107 should be replaced if there is fluid leakage from it or loss of the ability to dampen vibrations, deformation of the rod and destruction of silent blocks ( read the article about replacing silent blocks on a VAZ 2107.

). Shock absorbers on a car should be replaced in pairs, even if one of them is working.

Front shock absorber VAZ 2107

The suspension design of any car uses shock absorbers to increase the comfort and safety of movement. Since VAZ 2107 shock absorbers, like other suspension elements, are subject to constant loads and fail over time, you need to know how faults manifest themselves and be able to replace the part if necessary.

Purpose

The normal and correct operation of the front suspension of the “seven”, and the rear one too, is ensured by the main structural elements - a spring and a shock absorber. The spring softens the shocks of the body while the car is moving. When hitting any kind of obstacle (potholes, bumps), the wheel comes off the road, and thanks to the elastic element it returns to work. When the wheel hits the surface, the body presses down with its entire mass, and the spring should make this contact as soft as possible. The work of the shock absorber is aimed at dampening vibrations of the elastic element as quickly as possible when the body rocks. The part is completely sealed and, when fully operational, is capable of absorbing about 80% of impact energy. The shock absorbers of the front suspension of the VAZ 2107 are attached with the lower eye through the bracket to the lower suspension arm. The damper rod is fixed through the support glass using a nut.

Table: parameters of standard front shock absorbers VAZ 2107

Device

The front end of the VAZ 2107 comes from the factory with oil-filled twin-pipe shock absorbers. Structurally, in addition to the flask, piston and rod, they have another cylinder with a flask containing liquid and a piston element. During operation, the liquid is compressed by the piston, which causes it to flow through the valve into the outer cylinder. As a result, the air is further compressed. During rebound, due to the opening of the valves on the piston, the liquid flows back into the inner cylinder. This design of shock absorbers, although simple, has certain disadvantages. Since liquid from one flask to another passes through valves under high air pressure, aeration occurs, during which the liquid mixes with air, causing its properties to deteriorate. In addition, due to two flasks, the damper is cooled worse, which reduces its efficiency.

Replacement of shock absorbers and maintenance of rear suspension on VAZ-2107

The day before, while driving along the ends, I heard “terrible” sounds from the rear suspension, metallic, delicious.
Well, the first thought is that at least the rod has broken, or the bushings in the shock absorber have crumbled. I stopped, climbed under the car - the rods were in place, the ammo didn’t fall off either, I drove out onto a flat road - no bumps, only when you hit potholes - some kind of banging noise was heard from behind. In the evening I crawled under the car - I started feeling everything, tugging, the rods were rooted to the spot, the shock absorber - even though one leaked, there was nowhere for metallic sounds to come from... And then my gaze fell on the lever that goes from the sorcerer to the “stocking”. I shook it and everything became clear - its bushing had evaporated somewhere, in the place where it is attached to the body, and it was walking in free flight, making terrible sounds... So, forward to the pit! Since I had been planning to replace the rear shock absorbers for a long time, I went to a car store and purchased shock absorbers (gas-oil), here is a photo: The reason why I got the idea to replace the old shock absorbers is:

So let's get back to the geeks that started it all. So you can clearly see that the glitch comes from here:

and as it turned out also from here:

(this sorcerer’s drive hits the muffler pipe, it was eliminated by manipulating the muffler with a crowbar in his hands) By the way, the bushing, as it turned out, was not lost, it was just hanging out from under the bracket on the sorcerer’s drive. Here's what it looks like:

Naturally, it was put in place and thereby the metal rattles were eliminated. Next, our program detected either fogging or a slight leak from under the gearbox shank oil seal, but the oil did not drip, the level was normal, and I gave up on this:

The following two minor problems are caused by a loose or at one time simply not tightened bolt securing the sorcerer itself:

and the handbrake cable housing that had completely unscrewed from the right wheel (fixed by screwing in new bolts

When all the shortcomings were finally eliminated, the old ammos were unscrewed and put aside and the new ones were put in place, I was pleasantly pleased with the sight of the new ammos on the car

Rocking, swaying and twitching of the rear suspension rods did not reveal any play in them, which was pleasantly pleasing. But when I started pumping the car in order to test the new shock absorbers in action, an unpleasant surprise awaited me... Somehow it so happened that my gaze “fell” on the so-called “soldier” (this is the appendix on the body to which the transverse link is screwed) and how I saw him swayed a little “separately” from the body. In general, in the photo the place where the seam is visible is circled in red, which became narrower or wider when the body rocked:

Replacing rear shock absorbers

Replacing the rear shock absorbers is somewhat simpler than the front ones, but we will need the same equipment: a 19 mm wrench, a jack, a new unit.

1. We jack up the rear of the car and remove the rear wheels one by one.
2. Take a 19 mm wrench and unscrew the rear axle bolt. In this case, you need to support the bolt with a similar 19mm wrench.
3. Remove the bolt and bushings.
4. Using the same 19mm wrench, remove the nut holding the shock absorber rod and dismantle the shock absorber itself.

The assembly has been removed, now we proceed to install the new part, which is carried out like any installation in the reverse order of dismantling.

Shock absorber malfunctions

Any car malfunction always manifests itself in the form of extraneous noise, unusual behavior of the vehicle or other signs. Problems with shock absorbers also have certain symptoms, and if they are detected, you should not delay replacing the dampers.

Oil leakage

The most common sign that a shock absorber has become unusable is a fluid leak. Leaks on the body indicate a loss of seal in the oil reservoir. As a result, not only leaks occur, but also air leaks. In this case, the damper rod has free movement, i.e. it moves without any effort, and the part loses its functionality. If signs of smudges have just appeared on the shock absorber, it will serve a little longer, but you should not leave it without attention and it is better to replace it in the near future.

Body rocking

Since springs and shock absorbers work together to dampen vibrations that occur when driving over bumps, contact with the road may be lost if the damper fails. In this case, shaking increases, the body sways, and the level of comfort decreases. The car becomes rolly, and when it hits obstacles it sways for some time. The easiest way to check the shock absorbers of your “seven” is to press the wing, try to rock the body, and then release it. If the car continues to swing on the springs for some time, then this is a clear sign of a faulty damper.

Body roll

One symptom that indicates problems with the suspension shock absorbers is body roll when cornering. This behavior of the car negatively affects safety, since the quality of braking, as well as vehicle control, suffers. If liquid has leaked from the damper, it will be quite difficult to keep the car turning, which is especially dangerous in winter. When the mileage of the products in question is more than 60 thousand km, which also depends on the quality of the parts themselves and the operating conditions of the vehicle, handling may noticeably deteriorate. But since the process does not occur at one moment, but gradually, the driver practically does not notice this and rolls can be perceived as a normal phenomenon.

Suspension noise

Extraneous sounds in the suspension, uncharacteristic of its operation, indicate the need to check and service this mechanism. When dampers and their bushings wear out, the ability to effectively support the weight of the machine is lost. In addition, so-called shock absorber breakdowns often occur.

Suspension breakdowns are metal elements touching each other, which leads to a knocking sound.

Uneven or increased tire wear

If it has been noticed that the tire tread has uneven wear or wears off too quickly, then this is a clear sign of problems with the suspension. With faulty shock absorbers, the wheel moves vertically with a much greater amplitude, which leads to uneven tire wear. When driving, extraneous noise appears on such wheels.

Plunging when braking

Among car owners there is such a thing as “the car bites.” If the dampers fail, the front of the car will dive during braking, and the rear will sag when accelerating. This is explained by the fact that parts that have become unusable do not cope with their function, that is, they do not support the weight of the machine.

Broken fastening

One of the infrequent breakdowns of the front shock absorbers is the breakage of the lower eye. The reasons for this phenomenon may be different:

Replacing the front shock absorber on the “seven”

When damaged, front suspension dampers are usually replaced with new ones. Sometimes owners try to repair them on their own, which requires some experience, the purchase of a repair kit and special oil, but only dismountable shock absorbers are suitable for such a procedure. Before you start replacing, you need to decide which elements to install on your car.

Selection of shock absorbers

The question of choosing dampers for the “seven” is quite difficult for many, which is due to the wide variety of such products. The following types of shock absorbers can be installed on the “classic”:

Each type is characterized by its pros and cons and is produced by different manufacturers. It is necessary to select a product based on the operating conditions of the vehicle and the driving style of the owner.

Oily

Although the “seven” is basically equipped with oil shock absorbers filled with hydraulic fluid, many are not satisfied with their performance. The main disadvantage of such dampers is their slow response. If the car moves at high speed, the shock absorber does not have time to return to working condition, which leads to swaying on the springs. Therefore, they are recommended for those owners who do not operate their cars at speeds exceeding 90 km/h.

Gas-oil

Gas-oil shock absorbers use oil and gas, which increases the operating efficiency of the product and improves handling of irregularities. The main working medium is oil, and gas stabilizes operation by removing excess foam and increasing the efficiency of response to changes in road conditions. Equipping Zhiguli cars with such dampers has a positive effect on driving performance. There is virtually no sway at relatively low speeds. Among the minuses, it is worth highlighting omissions during sharp impacts.

Gas-oil with variable hardness

On the “Seven”, as well as on other “classics”, such elements are practically not installed, which is due to the high price. Products of this type are equipped with a special valve with an electromagnet. By means of the valve, it is adjusted to the operating mode of the vehicle and the amount of gas in the main cylinder of the damper is adjusted with a change in the rigidity of the device.

Video: types of shock absorbers and their differences

Manufacturers

During repairs, many owners install standard elements. Those who want to improve the performance of the suspension purchase gas-oil components. However, you have to choose from foreign manufacturers, since domestic ones do not produce such products. The most popular brands include:

Table: analogues of front dampers for VAZ “classics”

How to remove

To dismantle a faulty shock absorber we will need:

The event consists of the following actions:

Video: replacing front end dampers on classic Zhiguli cars

How to prepare for installation

The process of installing shock absorbers on a VAZ 2107 does not cause any difficulties. However, for proper and long-term operation they need to be prepared - pumped. Since the procedure differs depending on the type of device, we will dwell in more detail on the preparation of each of them.

Lada 2107 “There was a history” › Logbook › Replacing front shock absorbers

We open the magazine “Murzilka” or google “Replacing the front shock absorbers of a VAZ 2107” and read: “You will need two keys for 17, a key for 13 and a key for 6.”
OK. You must understand that the literature on repairs at AvtoVAZ enterprises differs from “Murzilok” and “Funny Pictures”. Therefore, we will need: *Ratchet wrench 1/2″ (large head); *Two extension cords or one large 1/2″; *Key for 17, Key for 6 (a good one for 7 or 5.5 will do); *Hex heads 13 and 17; *Bulgarian; *Candle/lighter; *Two bolts, two nuts, two bolts for the shock absorber bracket; *Hand clamp/long nose pliers or assistant. * For KYB Premium shock absorbers there is an additional 14 key!

By the way, the contents of the book “We Repair It Yourself” are mostly valid only for a new car!

Go. On the carburetor classic, I did the following sub-disassembly: *removed the carburetor pan; *removed the battery; *removed the wire from the ignition coil.

Next, we go through all threaded connections with a liquid wrench. According to the manual, using a 6 wrench to hold the shock absorber rod from turning, use a 13 wrench to unscrew the nut. You don’t need to keep the key on 6 all the time, just rip it off.

Let's go into the pit. Alternately, use a candle or lighter to heat the shock absorber bracket mounting nuts and tear them off

Only then do we begin to unscrew. I recommend cleaning the threads with a wire brush or at least a rag.

Then everything depends on the width of the pit and manual dexterity. Personally, I didn’t jack up the car, but folded the shock absorbers through the slots in the spring and took them out.

Now it all depends on how much you value time: whether you cut the bolts or try to unscrew them. It’s better to cut the bolts down and here’s why: the front shock absorbers last longer than the front shock absorbers. The fit of the bolts is very tight, the environment is aggressive - solid iron oxide. But they don’t unscrew anymore for the first reason.

The new shock absorber should be installed so that the assembled bracket, when placed on the floor, is prependicular to the floor (looks at the ceiling without tilting).

Further - easier. Everything is in reverse order. The rod does not need to be immediately straightened to its full length, because you have to play the game “Get into the hole” (the rod into the mudguard). You can straighten the rod by slipping an open-end wrench between the coils of the spring (like a lever). Using slow movements of a forward-returning nature, so that the rod does not fold, we look for a hole, push the shock absorber through, attach the cushion to a couple of turns of nuts, and check from above. If everything is ok, pull out the rod as described above and screw on the bracket.

The Japanese, apparently, have never repaired the Zhiguli; the pillow sandwich is impressive in its thickness. But the driver of the Zhiguli, who has seen hell on earth more than once, will not be frightened by this.

We grab the rod with a manual clamp with a lock and with rotational movements we lower the pillow and throw on the plate. You may have to go under the car again to lift the rod through the spring. Take a 14mm wrench (for the original 13mm) and tighten the nut. We take the key to 6 and tighten it.

Ready. “Murzilka” claims: you will spend 20 minutes.

I spent a lot more. Stopped counting

Source

Replacing front and rear shock absorbers

Self-repair and replacement of shock-absorbing parts in a car suspension is not as complicated a procedure as it might seem at first glance. However, work related to parts that affect the vehicle's handling must be carried out with the utmost care.

Tools, materials and components

To carry out work on replacing shock absorbers on classic VAZs, you will need a certain list of tools. Most at least slightly advanced drivers have these tools.

Removing shock absorbers

The process of removing the suspension struts does not take much time and boils down to unscrewing the shock absorber mounting bolts and pulling the part out of the retaining grooves. The main problem during removal, which most drivers of classic VAZ models encounter, is the difficulty of unscrewing the nut of the shock absorber mounting bolt.

To remove the front suspension struts, perform the following steps. Open the hood and remove the battery, thereby freeing up space for work. On the carburetor version of the VAZ, to simplify access to the suspension components, remove the “pan” from the carburetor.

Then they find the upper shock absorber mounting pad and, just in case, apply liquid key to the retaining bolt of this unit. Wait 20-30 minutes, after which they begin to disassemble the upper mount.

To do this, keep the rod of the shock-absorbing part from turning with a “6” wrench or pliers and at the same time unscrew the fixing nut from the upper fastening with a “13” wrench.

Now move on to the lower shock absorber bracket. Clean the fixing bolts with a brush or rag, then apply liquid key and wait again for 20-30 minutes.

Then they “tear off” these bolts and unscrew them. Now you can fold the racks and pull them out. To do this, either jack up the car or fold the racks and carefully remove them through the coils of the spring.

The bracket removed together with the stand can be installed on a new part if the necessary fastening is missing on it.

To remove the rear struts, you will need to repeat the manipulations with the liquid wrench and “fill” the upper and lower mounts of the rear shock absorber with it. While the liquid key is setting, it is highly advisable to jack up the rear axle on the side where the strut is being replaced. After lifting, you can place, for example, a wheel under the bridge.

Front steps:

We hang the wheel in front in the same way, then open the hood. There is access to the rod of the front shock absorbers of the VAZ 2107.

• Unscrew the nut using a 17 wrench and holding it with a 6 wrench.
• Then, from below, under the car, we turn out the bracket using a 13-mm open-end wrench and turn it out, and then remove it together with the shock absorber:
• Now we repeat all the steps on the other side, remove the second shock absorber, and then in the reverse order, just install new ones. For some car owners, on the contrary, it is easier to change one side first, so as not to jack the VAZ 2107 four times.

Replacement should ideally be carried out immediately at the front and rear to ensure maximum smoothness, but some “stingy” enthusiasts argue that such a replacement is more expensive.

How to replace rear shock absorbers on a VAZ 2101-VAZ 2107?

Note! The rear shock absorbers on the right and left sides are replaced in the same way, so the entire replacement process will be shown on only one shock absorber!

Removal: 1) Before you start, be sure to read the “Important!” section. at the very bottom of the article, maybe it will be useful to you.

2) After reading, we move on to replacement. First, drive the car into the inspection hole or lift it using a lift.

Note! If you will be doing work on a lift, then it is recommended to install some kind of support under the rear axle beam, and then lower the car slightly so that it rests on it. And all this is done so that the rear suspension is slightly loaded, otherwise removing the shock absorber will be very problematic!

3) Next, holding the bolt with one wrench, use the second to unscrew the nut that secures the lower hinge bolt.

4) Then slightly remove the bolt from the hinge and thereby remove the spacer sleeve from it, which is indicated by the arrow.

5) Next, holding the lower part of the shock absorber with your hand, slightly move it away from the bracket and, as a result, remove the spacer sleeve from the bolt.

Note! After these operations, completely remove the bolt from the lower hinge together with the washer!

6) Now get to the top of the shock absorber, and then unscrew the nut that secures the upper hinge.

7) After unscrewing, remove the washer and the outer rubber bushing of the hinge, which is indicated by the red arrow, from the stud.

Note! If the outer sleeve is very difficult to remove, then you can not touch it at all and move on to replacement!

Next, pull the shock absorber with your hand, thereby removing its upper hinge from the stud and the outer bushing will be removed along with it.

9) Then remove the inner joint bushing from the stud.

10) Then, holding the shock absorber in your hands, remove the spacer sleeve indicated by the arrow from the lower hinge.

11) When the bushing is removed, remove in addition two rubber bushings that sit in the hinge eyes.

Note! Replace all deformed and heavily worn bushings with new ones!

Installation: 1) Install the new shock absorber in the reverse order of removal.

Note! Tighten both nuts that secure the upper and lower shock absorber joints only at the moment when the suspension is loaded with the entire weight of the car!

Important! Shock absorbers, as a rule, can be repaired, but if you do not have sufficient experience and tools, then it is best to repair shock absorbers in specialized auto repair shops - so to speak, give it to those people who have been doing this for a long time!

How to remove and replace the front damper on a VAZ 2107

Unscrewing the upper nut on the shock absorber rod using 2 wrenches

Unscrewing the lower shock absorber bracket with a 13mm wrench

It is necessary to dismantle the damper with bracket

Installation of a new shock absorber occurs in the reverse order compared to dismantling

The process of replacing the front shock absorber takes no more than 20–30 minutes, after which you can check the car while driving.

How to change the front shock absorber of a VAZ 2107: video