How to change jet rods on a VAZ 2107 with your own hands

The use of reaction rods in the car suspension improves the stability and controllability of the car when driving, especially on uneven roads.
While driving, the rear axle experiences heavy loads with different directional vectors. Without reaction rods or with damaged rods, a car begins to behave dangerously under heavy loads on the suspension. It is the reaction rods that prevent the car from swaying and prevent it from tipping over during a sharp maneuver. Their condition critically affects driving safety. Therefore, you should periodically monitor the condition of the jet rods and carry out timely repairs or replacement of these parts.

Purpose of thrust rods on the VAZ 2107

Tie rods provide protection against swaying and loss of control on the road, during sharp turns and obstacles. Even earlier versions of the car had similar problems. But inside the cars there were only ordinary springs; no one knew anything about the system with rods.

It is for this reason that the vehicle caused many problems when driving. Only over time the suspension was modified. A system was installed with several long rods. This part carried the main load.

Classic VAZ 2107 cars and other models contain the following version of the torque rod kit:

1. Long.
2. Short.
3. A large transverse one, which also serves as the basis for the entire system.

Installation location - near the car axle located at the rear. The system is visible only from the inspection hole, where repair work is usually carried out if the reaction rods are replaced.

Installation of traction is done as follows:

• First, the rod is mounted in the front bracket. Before inserting the bolt into the desired hole, it is treated with nigrol;
• The reaction rod is placed in the rear bracket. Don't be surprised if the holes at the mounting location don't line up.

If the jet rod was broken, then the bridge would move all the time under load. This led to the shift.

To adjust the holes, you need to use a mounting spatula, resting it on the bracket, and unscrew the bridge until the fasteners align. When they match, you need to insert the bolt and secure it with a nut.

With the help of such manipulations, you will be able to replace the jet rods with your own hands and save money on visiting a service station.

Jet thrust malfunctions and possible consequences

If the load causes the axle to sway or shift, the impact will be taken by the jet thrust. The appearance of defects in parts leads to a deterioration in the overall behavior of transport. Damaged parts need to be replaced as quickly as possible.

The following factors often cause breakdowns:

• Exposure to chemicals from road compounds in winter;
• Impact of torsional loads. Occurs more often when colliding with obstacles. Only reducing the speed before these elements reduces the risks;
• Static loads. This factor is only reduced by the absence of overloads; it is impossible to completely get rid of it when operating rods on a VAZ 2107.

It is important to detect deformation, chips and cracks in a timely manner, for which periodic inspection of the entire system is organized. Welding seams and silent blocks are weak points that receive the most attention during inspections.

Silent blocks of any type are rubber, so they wear out faster than metal parts. Due to their wear, backlashes appear, becoming an obstacle to the stabilizing function. Welded joints, when they break, also lead to unpleasant consequences. It is recommended to remove them as quickly as possible.

With broken parts, driving is worse. Added to this is the unstable behavior of the body when defects appear in the jet rods.

Rod malfunctions

Actually, on the VAZ 2107, like on any other car, jet rods are installed so that the body does not “walk”, so that the driver’s safety is not at risk. And of course, like any other part, jet thrust can fail. The reason for this is most often the following factors:

1. Constant loads (they cannot be avoided in any case).
2. Torsional loads (for example, when hitting an obstacle).
3. Exposure to water or chemicals on the road.
4. It is important to periodically inspect the condition of the rods in order to promptly identify chips, deformation, and cracks.

All this is a sign that the part is failing and requires replacement. When inspecting, special attention should be paid to two parts - the eye (it is welded, which means it can break off more easily, because welding has its own service life) and silent blocks (they can break due to the load, after which the rod begins to move along the base, which means it stops performing its function).

The malfunction can be noticed by a knocking sound in the suspension that occurs while driving. When knocking occurs, you should immediately inspect the suspension for faults.

Of course, if you find a defect in the rods, you can contact a car repair shop, where they will replace the damaged part for a certain price. However, the replacement process itself is quite easy, and you can do it yourself.

Checking the condition of the jet rods on the VAZ 2107

100 thousand kilometers - new parts from the car are enough for this period, according to existing instructions. But the actual service life rarely exceeds 80 thousand kilometers, given real conditions.

The same instructions say that it is recommended to organize checks every 20 thousand kilometers. And here the experts recommend reducing the period by 5-10 thousand km to make it easier to avoid unpleasant surprises. You can’t do without an inspection hole and a mounting blade; this is the only way the jet thrust can be opened for viewing and other actions.

Test sequence

The steps are not that complicated:

1. Installation of transport on a viewing hole or on an overpass;
2. Mounting blades are inserted behind the traction eyes;
3. The spatula rests against the jet thrust bracket. An attempt is made to shift the part, together with the silent block. If the action is successful, it means the part is worn out and needs to be replaced;
4. Repeating a similar procedure with each silent block. If it moves sideways by a few mm, the need for replacement is obvious.

The rods themselves, along with the eyes, are also checked for wear. If any defects are detected, in this case the bushings and other parts are replaced.

Video checking jet rods on a VAZ 2107

Selection of thrust rods

The parts come from different manufacturers, the prices of which often differ several times. Production involves the use of spring steel as a base. Even when purchasing, it is easy to identify the presence of a defect in one case or another. It is necessary to inspect the part, especially in the welding areas. If there are chips and cracks, it is recommended to refuse the purchase. The fastening must not be damaged.

It is better to contact representatives of trusted stores. The main thing is not to forget to take a receipt, which simplifies the procedure for processing a return if necessary.

Replacing jet rods on a VAZ 2107

It is necessary to prepare a kit with tools and consumables in advance. Their main list is as follows:

• Hammer;
• Set with open-end wrenches. The reinforced double type parts are sometimes difficult to remove without additional tools;
• Blades for installation;
• WD-40 – this composition removes rust;
• A set with new reaction rods, including a transverse one.

When everything is ready, they begin the work itself.

Removing jet rods

Removing old parts is the first step where work begins.

The process involves the following sequence:

1. A wire brush is used to remove rust and dirt from threaded connections. Then WD-40 is used for processing. You will need to wait some time before the work can continue. The instructions are also relevant for the classic model.
2. Completely unscrew the nut, due to which the washer is held on the free side. This process is difficult, it is better to take a long wrench and, if necessary, re-treat the surface with WD-40.
3. Dismantling the bolt and nut, moving to the other side. The rear parts are dismantled in almost the same way.
4. Unscrewing the nut from the lower shock absorber mounting. The bolt with the spacer sleeve is also removed.
5. Shift towards the shock absorber itself. Otherwise you won't be able to access the second bolt.
6. Clean the bolt threads with a wire brush, then apply WD-40 again.
7. Unscrew the nut and pull out the bolt. The elastic band also changes if necessary.

The bolt is simply cut off if the nut cannot be unscrewed. Removing the reaction rods involves using a spatula for installation. Remains of the fastening must be removed if the bolt had to be cut off.

Reverse welding of cracks will not help when they appear on the surface. The seam then still cannot withstand the load. Such parts can only be replaced in full.

Repair and installation of jet rods

Reuse is permissible only if the metal part remains intact. Rubber silent blocks must be replaced in any case. The old parts are removed from the lugs and then new ones are installed. Treating the surface with dishwashing detergent simplifies this process.

New rods are installed in the following order:

• The traction eye is mounted in the front bracket;
• The securing bolt is lubricated with nigrol, lithol. Everything is inserted into the bracket and tightened with a nut;
• The tie rod eye is inserted into the rear tie rod bracket;
• Insert the bolt with lubricant, then secure with a nut.

A situation is acceptable when the holes at the traction eye and the bracket do not coincide with each other. Then take a mounting blade and, if possible, correct the current position.

The lower part of the shock absorber at the rear is secured when the bulk of the work is completed.

Video of changing jet engines on a VAZ 2107

Replacing torque rod bushings — logbook Lada 2107 2006 on DRIVE2

Last weekend I decided to work on the car and bought torque rod bushings, regular rubber ones + pins (1000 tenge + 1000 tenge)

Bushings used BRT

Fingers I don’t know whose company it is

• the replacement process is not too complicated, but without tools it’s a pain in the ass... the car needed to be rolled backwards into a garage with a pit, I cleaned and sprayed all the nuts with WD-40, unscrewed and removed the rods (as well as the lower mount of the rear shock absorber) using: a ratchet with 19mm head and 19mm wrench
• and not without the help of some mother)).

Attaching reaction rods to the body

Because of the shock absorber bolt, it is impossible to get to the rod mounting bolt, there is also a spacer, I don’t have one, apparently so that the shock absorber has more travel

1. Only 4 rods were removed (they didn’t reach the panhard, the car was backed up in front) Then, of course, it was possible to buy and install new rods,
2. but I wanted to try my hand)) and it’s cheaper to change the bushings yourself!

The process of replacing the bushings began: it took us 2 hours (out of ignorance, and maybe it was our first experience). We knocked out the fingers using a bolt with a nut, a 2.5 kg sledgehammer, and a tree stump)) We knocked out 8 bushings in about 10 minutes. At first they cut the rubber bushings, tried to pull them out, We spent about 40 minutes)) then we got our hands dirty and managed to pull everything out quickly thanks to a large flat screwdriver.

Next, I cleaned the seats on the rods with sandpaper from the remnants of worn-out rubber, it took me half an hour... Well, that’s where the fun began)) The bushings for the small rods, generously lubricated with liquid soap, I was able to “install” with the help of my 95 kg of weight, jumping with my heel on the rubber band )))And I was able to install bushings on large rods only thanks to hammer blows.

Then, with the help of yews and a plumber’s “set,” the two of us somehow pressed the fingers in

(the movement of the yews was barely enough, the yews were not screwed in, everything was done on the floor)))

The photo is not mine, I skimped on Google))

1. Pressed...
2. We went to install I installed the rods quite quickly, but I had to conjure with the “position” of the body so that the holes on the body and the rods matched... we also used all sorts of iron rods so that the rods would fall into place, after 1 hour all the rods were in their places
3. then tightened the bolts.

The next day I bought a device for pressing in jet thrust bushings. It cost me 1200 tenge.

This is it, the photo is not mine, I don’t know why the finger is there)

Panhard bar

with the Panhard bar, now we didn’t have to suffer so much, I drove the car backwards into the garage again: wd-40... unscrew, remove... removed. The bushings were pressed out using the proven technology: “sledgehammers, bolts and screwdrivers”, they were pressed in with a device quite easily and quickly, the bolt tightened the bushing , and there’s also a cone.

• The traction fell into place quite quickly.
• Disclaimer: all the photos were blatantly stolen from Google)) when I took it, I didn’t have time for a camera.
• Results: Some bushings were “average” broken, and after replacing the rear axle became less “chatty”, handling improved quite a lot, and the car began to ask for a skid less))
• But it became a pleasure to pile sideways, because... the car became submissive))

Yesterday (09.12.

2015) it was very snowy (20 cm fell per day), I drove from the secondary street to the main one, the main street has a rather sharp rise (15 percent hill), the secondary one adjoins the main one in the last quarter of the rise (25 meters left uphill) from the right Turning 90 degrees up a steep hill, I accelerated so as not to slide, a skid began, a couple of movements of the steering wheel, and it was successfully extinguished, + I didn’t roll down, only my mother got scared.

So don’t be lazy to watch your iron horses! If they don’t thank you, they will protect you!

Price tag: 700 ₽ Mileage: 15200 km

Replacing bushings and silent blocks on VAZ 2107 rods

Silent blocks with bushings are disposable parts that need to be replaced immediately. In a garage, restoring parts becomes impossible. To replace you will need to acquire the following things:

1. The beard is 10 mm in diameter.
2. Hammer.
3. Press-fitting device. It may also be needed when the rear axle is being repaired.

Sequencing

Follow the above instructions when removing the traction. Parts must be pre-treated with WD-40. A wire brush helps remove dirt and dust. Further actions are performed according to the specified algorithm:

• After removing the rod, the bushing should be removed without problems;

But this behavior is typical for parts without serious rust, with severe wear. Otherwise, you will have to use a hammer to knock the structure out of its place. The beard is inserted inside first.

• They get rid of the silent block if the rubber part is damaged too much. Use a screwdriver or a mounting shovel to pry up parts that prevent everything from being freed;
• Using a sharp knife or sandpaper, carefully clean the surface of the eyelet inside. Remains of rubber and rust should then disappear completely;
• A new bushing is placed in the eye and pressing is carried out using new equipment;
• The beard helps to cope with this part of the work. The main thing is to act carefully to avoid damage.