Why doesn't the electric power steering work on the viburnum? fixing the problem

So, I repaired my EUR (Makhachkala), you can congratulate me. I studied all the information and as soon as the weather warmed up I decided to take on the repairs. Today I left work early and decided that I would have time to do it before dark. I removed the panel, did diagnostics using the paperclip method - it turned out that the EMUR engine rotor position sensor was faulty. Here I’ll save the information for myself on how to diagnose using the paperclip method. (taken from YaTyT11rus) Diagnostics of EMUR without a scanner ("paperclip" method

) As first aid, we can suggest reading the EMUR fault codes using the “paperclip” method, for which you need to do the following: * turn off the ignition; * close contacts 6 and 7 at the 8-pin connector of the EMUR control unit (CU), located next to the power supply unit; * turn on the ignition and read the codes through the flashing diagnostic lamp.

What to close:

If you look at the ECU connector from the wire side (8-pin black connector, 1st pin on the top right near the latch), then from right to left the count goes like this: * 1-blue (ignition switch +12V);
* 2-brown-red (tachometer); * 3-gray (vehicle speed); * 4-pink-white (EMUR control lamp); * 5-yellow-black (K-Line); * 6-blank (L-line) * 7-brown (mass) * 8-blank. Temporary parameters of the light code:
* duration of the initial pause – 2 seconds; * long signal duration – 2 seconds; * short signal duration – 0.5 seconds; * pause duration between signals – 0.5 seconds; * pause duration between codes – 2 seconds

Be careful what you close! Triple check that you have found the correct contacts!

Decoding the code:

1 long 1 short System OK 1 long 2 short No engine speed signal 1 long 3 short Malfunction of the torque sensor 1 long 4 short Malfunction of the EMUR engine 1 long 5 short Malfunction of the steering shaft position sensor 1 long 6 short Malfunction of the engine rotor position sensor EMUR 1 long 7 short Malfunction of the vehicle electrical system (below 10V or greater than 18V) 1 long 8 short Malfunction of the EMUR control unit 1 long 9 short Malfunction of the vehicle speed sensor

I got error No. 16 (Rotor position sensor malfunction). Then I removed the steering column and took it home. At home I disassembled the cover where the board with the EUR rotor position sensor is located.

For the first time, the Russian auto industry installed electric power steering on Kalina. At the first stages, it worked extremely unstably, up to a complete shutdown. Later, they tried to eliminate the shortcomings, but the EUR remained a weak link and periodically fails, as evidenced by the exclamation mark on the panel. This is evidenced by the feeling of a heavy steering wheel, and turning with one hand becomes difficult.

The principle of operation of the electric booster is to reduce the force that needs to be applied when turning the steering wheel. The Kalina electric power steering control unit uses sensors to calculate the operation of the electric motor at the current speed and torque. Thereby giving a signal of the effort with which the driver needs to be helped when turning. After all, it does not work constantly and needs adjustment, which is carried out by the block.

Reasons for shutdown

The main reason lies in the electric power steering. When ignited, the system performs a self-diagnosis and if the mechanism does not pass it, a signal is turned on indicating a malfunction. The color of the signal indicates the degree of danger. The light turns red, the problem needs to be fixed urgently. If the color is yellow, the vehicle can be operated, but safety precautions should be taken. There may be several reasons why the electric power steering on Kalina does not work:

• speed sensor malfunction;
• torque sensor malfunction;
• speed exceeds 60 km/h;
• engine speed is less than 400 per minute;
• failure in the control unit;
• poorly soldered contacts;
• insufficient tension.

Software shutdown

1. The electric power steering on Kalina turns off after 60 km/h. Therefore, keep this point in mind; it is set in the system unit and is not a breakdown. The Priora's electric power steering is switched off at a speed of 110 km/h.
2. Also, the EUR does not work at low engine speeds. If the value is less than 400 rpm, it is not active.

This is software planned inactivity. It is needed to give information to the steering wheel at high speed and reduce wear of the mechanism.

Electrical booster malfunctions

In the event that it is impossible to immediately check the cause of failure of the electric power steering on Kalina, you need to remove the fuse from the block. This is necessary to prevent sudden activation of the mechanism, which leads to emergency situations.

Diagnostics

To check the amplifier in a car, you need to remove the plastic trim on the steering column; to do this, unscrew the bolts securing it from the bottom.

Then you will need to get to the 8-pin plug, its pinout is as follows:

• The blue contact is connected to the ignition switch, this is 12 volt power;
• the red-brown contact is the connection cable to the tachometer;
• the gray contact goes to the car speed controller;
• white and pink wire - amplifier control indicator;
• black-yellow contact is a diagnostic line;
• the next contact is empty, the wire is not connected to it;
• brown contact is ground;
• empty.

More accurate results will be obtained by checking the amplifier using a scanner. But since such equipment can usually only be found at service stations, you can try to check the operation of the system with a paper clip.

To check you need to do the following:

1. First the ignition is turned off.
2. Then, using a paper clip, you need to close contacts numbered 6 and 7 of this plug, while the plug itself does not need to be removed.
3. Next, the ignition must be turned on.
4. After completing these steps, the EUR failure indicator located in the dashboard will begin to blink; by the number of blinks, you can determine whether the system is broken (the author of the video is Gosha Vakhromeev).

• one long signal and one short signal - the electric amplifier is working;
• one long and two short - no engine speed signal;
• one long and three short - the torque controller is out of order or there is no power supply;
• one long and four short blinks—problems in the operation of the electric power steering motor;
• one long and five short - the steering shaft position controller has failed;
• one long and six short - the motor rotor position controller has failed;
• one long and seven short - problems with the electrical network - the voltage is either too high or very low;
• one long and eight short - the control module of the electric amplifier has failed;
• one long and nine short - the speed controller is broken.

Fuse box

The weak link of the electric power steering on Kalina is the fuse box; if something doesn’t work, it’s worth checking them. To get to them, you need to open the dashboard, to the left of the steering wheel. To do this, pull the top part towards you and the latch will open.

Check if the fuse is working, if it fails, replace it. It is very easy to check, check the integrity of the thread inside the fuse. Changing a 50 amp relay to a 30 amp one will also help.

Newer versions of Kalina are equipped with electric amplifiers from Hyundai, which has a positive effect on its reliability. However, there are still thousands of cars with the domestic version, which malfunctions and breaks down from time to time. Now it will be easier for you to repair the electric power steering on Kalina yourself. The main thing to remember is that not every amplifier shutdown is a breakdown. And you can find the problem yourself and fix it, but somewhere you will have to go to a service center.

The electric power steering is a problem area in the Lada Kalina. Surely this is due to the fact that the domestic auto industry has only recently become acquainted with the ESD. AvtoVAZ has not yet learned how to make good steering systems. Therefore, repairing electric power steering on Kalina remains a common practice. But it is best done by specialists. Amateurism here will be inappropriate; it can only aggravate the situation. The steering system is an important component, the serviceability of which determines the efficiency of driving and, of course, safety. Repairing the electric power steering on Kalina is a responsible job that requires certain knowledge in the field of power steering. And since a minimum number of car enthusiasts have such knowledge, mostly when problems arise, drivers go to a service station, which is fundamentally correct. Despite the fact that repairing the EUR requires contacting a car service, you can detect the first symptoms of a malfunction yourself. Viburnums on the front panel have a special yellow indicator, which, in the event of a breakdown of the electric amplifier, lights up and reports an error in the system. If it lights up, it means you have another reason to visit the nearest auto repair shop. But it’s immediately worth noting that the yellow indicator does not indicate a critical malfunction, but only signals the occurrence of a problem that allows you to drive the car, but without the participation of the ESD. If the electric power steering has completely failed, it is better to stop immediately and remove its fuses. In Kalina they are located on the left side of the steering wheel. Theoretically, in case of malfunctions, the EUR should turn off on its own. However, it doesn’t happen once at a time. Therefore, to be sure, it is still worth taking care of the fuses. This failure can only be corrected by completely replacing the speed sensor. Moreover, here it is not necessary to go to the service. You can replace everything yourself. The second malfunction may be hidden in the EUR itself. Basically, it consists of self-disabling the electric power steering due to the fact that it has not passed self-test. That is, the device turns off automatically so as not to interfere with the driver when driving the car. This kind of malfunction guarantees a trip to the service station and will require you to spend a lot of money. lack of speed sensor information. In general, it is clear that there are not so many reasons why the ESD fails. Some of them are critical, some are not. But in any case, you need to take care of promptly eliminating the problem. Today it is difficult to find reliable electrical circuits for an amplifier from a domestic car. Such information is mainly available only in services, and no one will share it with you. Therefore, repairing the electric power steering on Kalina is only possible within the walls of a service station, since amateurism can be expensive. Here it is better not to take risks, not to be stingy, but to trust competent specialists. On a Lada Kalina car, the electric power steering (EPS) periodically turns off and error C1044 (incorrect rotor position sensor sequence) lights up. Read on to find out how to deal with this problem. Electric power steering for modern cars has already become an integral part of them. On the Russian market it was first installed on the Lada Kalina (VAZ 1118). The electric booster added both a lot of positive emotions and a lot of negative ones. Failure of this unit occurs quite often on the first samples. Our guest today was no exception - a car from the Lada Kalina family (Fig. 1).

Electric power steering on Kalina

Latest model of Kalina

Lada Kalina cars are equipped with electric power steering. Its design is very simple, it consists of one block, so even on a standard vehicle, the EUR can be installed without any problems. It contains no liquid, which means it is easy to maintain. But it is worth paying attention to the experience of foreign manufacturers who try not to install ESD in their cars. This mechanism has a special feature: it can operate at both low and high speeds. The second option is undesirable, since the slightest movement of the steering wheel can cause the car to drift into a ditch or to the side of the road.

The Lada electric power steering circuit provides for the mechanism to operate at different speeds, and when driving it either functions or turns off. The malfunction is that the EUR stops in one state. It is prohibited to use the vehicle until the breakdown is repaired. A yellow light on the dashboard will indicate the problem. It shows an exclamation mark and a steering wheel. If the malfunction lies in the power steering unit, and it is not possible to eliminate it, you should remove the fuse that is responsible for the operation of the electric amplifier. It should be taken into account that EMUR can fail not only on old, but also on new Kalinas that have not had time to be run-in.

How to fix a steering rack

Repairing a steering rack is not the easiest thing. Removing and installing the rack is very labor-intensive; some difficult points must be mentioned in advance. This, for example, is where the rack attaches to the steering column.

To repair the rack, you will need a steering rack repair kit 2110. The main task is to replace the rack stop and bushing, this will get rid of play and noise when overcoming small potholes.

For repairs we will need: the rack stop and bushing, the rack stop O-ring, the stop nut. You will also need a central corrugation; it is very likely that you will have to change it.

Before unscrewing, we wet the rack fastening studs with a wedge, otherwise they can be turned out. Always be aware of the dangers of twisting those studs! Otherwise you will have to drill through the engine compartment cover!

The inside of the rack may be rusty or extremely dirty; in this case, it needs to be washed with diesel fuel or gasoline.

When you assemble the rack, you will have to actively lubricate it, so it is better to buy lubricant in advance, preferably FIOL.

After removing the rail, you need to cut off the clamps; the clamp attaching to the body does not need to be removed, but we remove the other one with an elastic band. You can also remove the gasket, which is located at the point of contact between the rack and the hole in the engine shield.

Next you need to remove the anthers. Soak the stop nut in kerosene and remove the worm shaft. If this fails, you can try to lubricate everything inside without completely disassembling it.

After this, we begin to try to unscrew the stop nut, and you will need a good wrench. Next, we take out the spring, as well as the rubber band, turn it over with the hole down and hit it on some piece of wood to get the stop itself.

Next, we take out the old steering rack bushing. To do this, you need to bend the two protrusions and use a wire to pull the sleeve out of the body.

After you take out the rail, you need to wash it; the same diesel fuel will do for this. Also, it needs to be cleaned of grease and dirt.

To perfectly clean the rack, you can blow it out. In this case, you need to rotate the worm shaft. This will allow dirt to be blown out from the back.

After these procedures, everything needs to be lubricated and assembled. Lubricate the worm shaft by turning it.

It is necessary to generously lubricate the gear part, because... This is where the main friction lies. Next, we lubricate the ends of the rail; after lubricating it, check how it fits; only if this happens with some effort, it will stop making noise.

Next, remove the bushing from the rack and insert it into the housing, which has been lubricated in advance. Watch the locking tabs on the bushing.

You need to tighten the bolt that attaches the rods to the rack, position the body so that the bushing faces down, and place the rack on it.

We look for the middle of the window in the slat body, we need to mark it, and set the slat to the middle position. The central hole must be opposite your mark.

Next, generously lubricate everything and install a new stop, seal and spring, and tighten the stop nut.

We use a wrench to tighten the nut tightly, after which, as in the instructions, we move it in the opposite direction by 2 divisions. After installing the rack, the steering wheel may become “heavier,” but this is temporary.

We put everything back together, while trying not to leave any unnecessary parts.