Electronic engine control unit Kalina

Help me find out the ECU number

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Ur-Al April 16, 2014

Tell me, how can I find out the ecu number for a 2007 Kalina 8 valve Euro-2 (the sticker is missing on the ecu)? diagnostics shows January 7.2 but there is no number. In the store they say there are several types. How to determine which one to get?

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111 April 16, 2014
“Diagnostics” should still show the software (firmware) version in the ECU! You can navigate it! Has the ECU "drowned" in antifreeze? Instead of “Y7.2” you can put “Bosch7.9.7(+)” (a universal ECU fits almost all cars with the installation of the appropriate program) and M73 (IMHO I don’t really like it) You can select it for your car here

here here It is necessary to check the number of oxygen sensors (Euro standards): 1 DC - "E2", two DC - "E3". And use them to select the ECU.

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• I do not like

Ur-Al April 16, 2014
“Diagnostics” should still show the software version (firmware) in the ECU! You can navigate it! Has the ECU "drowned" in antifreeze? Instead of “Y7.2” you can put “Bosch7.9.7(+)” (a universal ECU fits almost all cars with the installation of the appropriate program) and M73 (IMHO I don’t really like it) You can select it for your car here

here here It is necessary to check the number of oxygen sensors (Euro standards): 1 DC - "E2", two DC - "E3". And use them to select the ECU.

No, it didn’t flood with antifreeze. While overtaking, I hit a hole and it shook, after which the injector in the fourth cylinder stopped working. Engine 1.6 l. eureka 2nd.

• Thank you
• I do not like

Ur-Al April 16, 2014
“Diagnostics” should still show the software version (firmware) in the ECU! You can navigate it! Has the ECU "drowned" in antifreeze? Instead of “Y7.2” you can put “Bosch7.9.7(+)” (a universal ECU fits almost all cars with the installation of the appropriate program) and M73 (IMHO I don’t really like it) You can select it for your car here

here here It is necessary to check the number of oxygen sensors (Euro standards): 1 DC - "E2", two DC - "E3". And use them to select the ECU.

Flooded the brains on Kalina

Almost every owner of a Lada Kalina sooner or later faces a problem such as flooding of the ECU with antifreeze. This is due to the fact that it is located directly under the heater radiator, and in such a position that the antifreeze drips directly onto the block body and safely gets inside, thereby slowly but surely killing the engine control board. This phenomenon manifests itself in different ways. For some people, the engine error light just comes on first, and only then their brains go haywire. For others, everything happens more quickly and smoke begins to pour out from under the panel. For others, the engine simply stops starting at one point. Everything here is individual and impossible to predict. This article will tell you how to deal with this problem if it does happen. We are talking about a car with a 1.6 8V engine without air conditioning. Let's start with something simple.

Where is the Lada Kalina ECU located? How to remove it.

So, the Kalina engine control unit is located at the very bottom of the console

, between the floor and the heating radiator.
It is accessible from the passenger's feet. To do this, you need to remove the plastic cover, which is attached with one screw. We unscrew it and move the lining forward along the direction of the car, after which it should completely disengage. We remove the cover to the side. Below it we see the following picture. Removing the ECU on a Lada Kalina car
In order to remove the block, you first need to unscrew 2 screws, the location of the first is shown by the arrow. The second is at the same level on the engine side. Before doing this, you must remember to remove the terminal from the battery. After unscrewing the screws, you need to pull the block towards the passenger door and it should move out from there along the guides. Sometimes it happens that the wires rest against the carpet. Then they need to be corrected.

In order to remove the connector and disconnect the unit from the wires, you first need to pull the connector lock to the side. The latch is a bracket. I think you can easily find it on the connector.

What kind of ECUs are installed on VAZ

The first cars of the domestic automobile industry were quite ordinary and completely mechanized. However, with the development of technology, VAZ also had to change something.

In particular, over time, control of the engine operation fell on the shoulders of the ECM. All injection engines were equipped with them, and with the release of new, more modern models, the presence of an engine control unit (for example, on the VAZ Priora or Kalina) was not even discussed. What evolution have these devices undergone? Let's get a look.

GM control units

These systems were installed on the first Samara models produced before 2000. They could be supplemented with a resonant knock sensor or not have it.

BOSCH engine control unit

Among the Bosch brand engine control units that were installed on VAZ group cars, it is worth highlighting:

• “Bosch M1.5.4, with simultaneous, pair-time or phased injection, which can be interchangeable with “VS 5.1”, “January 5.1.x”;
• "Bosch MP7.0" is mainly installed in a single volume and can work on other systems. Has a 55-pin connector.
• "Bosch M7.9.7", which began to be part of the VAZ group vehicles in 2003. Cars on which Bosch ECUs of this model were installed had to comply with Euro-2 and Euro-3 toxicity standards. The ECM itself is relatively light weight and smaller in size. In addition, it is equipped with a reliable connector and switch.

Control units "January"

As for the electronic engine control units “January”, in this case, too, several of the most well-known VAZ components can be identified. These include:

“January-4”, which, like GM-09, was installed on the first Samara models until the 2000s.

"January 5.1". All types of controllers of this type are built on the same platform, and the only differences are in the switching of injectors and the DC heater. The first version has phased injection and an oxygen sensor, while the second has parallel injection. The difference between these ECUs is only in the firmware, which means they can be interchanged.

Repair of electronic control unit.

After the brains are disconnected from the wiring, we move on to disassembling them and assessing the scale of destruction. To do this, unscrew the 4 star screws and remove the board from the case. Next we inspect. It often happens like this: the output key for controlling the ignition coil burns out. Then the engine starts running on two cylinders, or does not start at all. Such a breakdown can be repaired in a workshop by replacing the key and washing and drying the board.

Burnt output key on the Lada Kalina ECU

There are options when part of the board burns out and turns black. In this case, in 99% of cases the brains have to be thrown away. But some people are still lucky. Antifreeze only interferes with the normal operation of the microcircuit, but nothing has burned yet. In such cases, the board has no visible damage. Then the ECU repair is carried out as follows . First, wipe everything with a dry cloth. Then we wash it several times with WD-40 and blow it out with a compressor. After this, we wash it a couple of times in alcohol and also blow it out. Next is a very important moment - drying. This event must be taken very seriously, since it is drying that primarily determines how long the ECU will work after our repair. For this operation I used a hair dryer. I set it to maximum and heated the board on both sides for about 1.5 hours. This method was used to revive several of Kalina’s brains.

Now let's talk about those who were less fortunate and the ECU burned out beyond repair. In this case, you will have to change it. But this task is not as simple as it seems at first glance. The only exception is when you buy exactly the same unit new, never installed on a car with an immobilizer. But there is no need to rush, everything is in order...

How much does a new ECU cost? What block is on Kalina? Interchangeability.

The first thing you always want to know after a car part fails is how much the same new one costs to replace it. And after the electronic unit breaks down, you want to know this even more, since every car enthusiast understands that doing this is far from cheap. So, depending on the store and model, the price of the Lada Kalina ECU ranges from 5,000 rubles to 8,500 rubles. On the secondary market, this price starts from 1000 rubles and up to 3500 rubles. What is the reason for such a range of prices, you ask. Let me explain. Different cars have the brains of different manufacturers (M73, January, Bosch). So, for some reason, a Bosch ECU costs on average 3,000 rubles more than its analogues. How this is explained is not clear. But avid chip tuners say that it is no better than its counterparts. The only difference is that with the brains from Bosch, the car consumes 0.5 liters of gasoline less, but at the same time it drives a little dumber. My personal opinion is that it is not reasonable to overpay 3,000 rubles for an effect that may not exist. Therefore, if you have a Bosch unit and the price for it is about 8 thousand, then you need to look for an analogue. I'll tell you how to do this below.

I will give a table of interchangeability of Kalina ECU

. This data was not verified by me personally, but by one authoritative master. The interchangeability of these blocks applies only to blocks with factory firmware (that is, after installation there is no need to reflash the block for your engine and sensors). So, in each line there is a block marking, firmware version and toxicity class. Bosch 21114-1411020-40 with B104CR01(02) Euro3 software (in my cases it was this one) can be replaced with: Bosch 21114-1411020-40 with B102CQ05(CR06) Euro3 software; Bosch 11183-1411020-02 with software B101CR01(02) Euro2. There is one peculiarity here. If your car has an air conditioner, then the firmware version must be B104CR02 and no other, otherwise the engine will not compensate for the load from the air conditioner. But since in this article we are talking about a car without it, you can ignore the last 2 digits of the firmware. All of the above Bosch blocks can be replaced with domestic Janvr7.2 and 7.2+ blocks. Domestic blocks are all Euro 2, with the exception of M73 blocks - they are Euro3. Blocks January 7.2 and 7.2+ manufacturer Avtel or Itelma (Euro2) for Kalina 1.6l 8V: 7.2 11183-1411020-21(22) with software A(I)201CO56(57)(58); 7.2+ 11183-1411020-21(22) with software A(I)201CP57. These blocks do not support air conditioning, as I understand it. And, in fact, the M73 blocks, which are suitable for Kalina. These units are all Euro 3: M73 21114-1411020-41 with software A303CE05(CF06) Euro3 (support air conditioning); M73 21114-1411020-42 with software I303CE05(CF06) Euro3 (support air conditioning). Thus, all of the listed ECUs with Euro3 toxicity class can be changed and can be changed among themselves without hesitation (only if they have factory firmware). It is also possible to replace a block with Euro 3 class with a block with Euro 2 class, but vice versa is not possible. All markings are located on a white plate glued to the ECU cover.

Next, I consider it necessary to consider the option of replacing the unit with a used one that was installed on a car with an activated immobilizer, since in this case there is one unpleasant feature.

ECU marking Lada Kalina

The basis is taken from the article by the respected D.B. Dudar “History in Persons”.

A FLASH chip with a capacity of 256 Kb is used as ROM in these blocks, of which only 32 Kb contain calibration tables and can be read and rewritten. More precisely, you can write all 256 KB, but only read 32 KB. Reading/writing of these blocks (without opening the blocks) is supported by the Combiloader programmer from SMS – Software. It is also possible to program flash with an external programmer through an adapter connected to the ECU bus.

ECUs of different modifications differ in hardware. The ECU for E 3 standards (1411020 – 50) has an additional driver for the heater of the 2nd oxygen sensor. There may also be differences in the DTV channel.

A beautiful paper sticker (there are such things), on top of the standard nameplate - most likely the brainchild of OPP, such blocks were installed on some Niva and Nadezhda cars, converted to OPP from ordinary Niva ones.

This type of ECU supports non-disabled driver diagnostics. Therefore, when installing gas equipment on them, it is strictly necessary to use continuous shutdown of the injectors.

In terms of wiring, the blocks are interchangeable, but only with their own software corresponding to the block.

The “new” hardware implementation clearly lacks the elements necessary to switch dual-mode firmware and to implement switching between two firmwares, they must be installed.

These ECMs were discontinued in early 2005.

Read more about VAZ 21114 and 21124 engines here.

Reading/programming flash and eeprom of this unit is supported by the updated version of PAK-2 “Loader” Combiloader. (There is no information about other types of bootloaders with support for 797+ yet). To ensure the possibility of reprogramming in the same way as with the old implementation, you need to work with a soldering iron.

22 XC 052 S – System Supplier ECU SoftwareNumber B 122 HR 01 – Vehicle Manufacturer ECU SoftwareNumber

Firmware 22 YB 072 S (the latest software version for NIVA-Chevrolet) does not have a “usual” analogue. This “confusion” is most likely due to the fact that the Niva brand no longer has anything to do with AvtoVAZ, and is completely owned by the Chevrolet brand.

ECUs are manufactured in different places, the country of origin is indicated on the nameplate. Until recently, there were two of them - Germany and Russia, a little later the “French” ones appeared, and at the end of 2007, ECUs originally from the Middle Kingdom, made in China, began to appear.

The ECU is produced (хххх- 1411020 – 82 (32), the firmware begins with the letter “I”, for example, I 203 EK 34) and “Avtel” (хххх- 1411020 – 81 (31), the firmware begins with the letter “A", for example , A 203 EK 34 ). Both the blocks and the firmware of these blocks are completely interchangeable.

The ECU manufacturer (in this case NPO Itelma) could not do without surprises here too. A small batch of ECUs was produced, with hardware differences in the speed sensor processor channel without changing the nameplates and identifying the firmware. That is, the firmware of such blocks has the same names as “regular” ones, but writing firmware from the “old” hardware implementation into the block leads to the absence of a DS signal and errors associated with the speed sensor. In order to adapt the firmware to this ECU, a small change in the program code is required, which can be done using a special utility.

How to install used brains. Immobilizer.

I will describe how I encountered a problem when installing a used unit. After discovering another completely flooded and well-burnt patient, it was decided to find a unit that was already on the car, since the owner couldn’t afford to buy a new one. By luck, the ad contained an ECU from a wrecked car at a ridiculous price, only 1000 rubles. It seemed that everything was simple: I took it off, put it on another car and drove off happy. But it was not there. After installing a used unit, the engine does not start, even the starter does not turn. At the same time, the car icon with a key flashes on the panel. After 5 minutes of thought, it became clear that the old immobilizer did not recognize the new brains.

How does the standard anti-theft system (immobilizer) work?

It turns out that the standard anti-theft system is designed in such a way that it forms a Keys-Immobilizer-ECU system. When replacing at least one of these elements, the engine is immediately prohibited from starting. In the ECU, information about this system is stored in EEPROM memory. Therefore, to install a used unit, you must either clear this memory and retrain the immobilizer again, or read the data from the old unit and transfer it to the one being installed. We chose the second option and for 1000 rubles an experienced technician completed this procedure (flashing) in 20 minutes. In stores, the units come with a blank EEPROM. Therefore, there is no need to reflash them after purchase.

I hope I clearly explained how to install a used engine control unit. There is a lot of information on the Internet about how to retrain an immobilizer, but if someone doesn’t find it, you can open a topic on the forum and I’ll write there. There is only one point left - how to prevent Kalina’s brain from flooding. I will talk about this in my new article. If something remains unclear, you can always ask in the comments, I’m looking forward to them!

Let's sum it up

If symptoms appear, the owner of LADA Kalina should contact service as soon as possible, because the cost of repairs can be significantly reduced. It is advisable to independently carry out the procedures we have indicated if the owner of LADA Kalina has a sufficient level of experience in dealing with automotive electronic devices. To do this, at a minimum, you need to know where the ECU is located, as well as how to remove the ECU. However, a 100% positive outcome of the event should not be expected. In case of failure, we recommend contacting the service specialists.

Welcome! Controller - popularly it is simply called the brain, but scientifically it is briefly called the ECU, that is, the Electronic Engine Control Unit, it performs all electronic functions in the car, starting from instrument readings (Thanks to it, you understand how many revolutions it gives to the engine at one time or another, and you also understand the speed, it is only with the help of it that it is recognized, but also the sensor itself, which transmits this information to the controller) and ending with the very operation of the engine, and therefore if it fails, then all the instruments first of all stop giving readings to you and the car also won’t start, but by changing it to a new one, the car will come back to life again and will drive as if nothing had happened, but it’s best to change it to exactly the same one as it was before, it’s just that all the controllers are configured for certain sensors and for certain engines, but still, if you want, you can install a different model, but you need to make sure that the connector for the wire block in it is exactly the same as on the old one and it is desirable that it has the same dimensions, in addition, you will either have to calibrate it online, or upload a ready-made program (at your discretion and according to your financial capabilities), people also call calibration firmware so that you immediately understand what we are talking about.

Which ECU to take instead of the old one (Lada Kalina)

January 5, 2021, 20:12 #1

please, I beg you, help me, all my nerves are gone,

I bought the viburnum after a full inspection of everything that was possible, the brains were left, it turned out that they were flooded and completely burned in the center, I’m looking around St. Petersburg for new or used brains, but I realized that not all will fit

model 2011 8 cells 1.6 E-Gas

God bless you all, this forum is my last hope until I pour gasoline on it and set it on fire

January 5, 2021, 20:22 #2

It would be more reliable to find out such details on the Kalinoforum, IMHO

Lada Kalina 11183 Lada 4x4 2131

January 5, 2021, 11:23 pm #3 + 1

Only family members use E-Gas. Firmware version may vary. But it should only be for E-Gas. The issue price is much less than the cost of the new Kalina. The main thing is to immediately remove the right one under the passenger’s feet and replace the heater radiator. It's very hemorrhagic there. But that is another topic. Good luck to you. It’s better to go to the specialists if you don’t want to continue to get bad impressions. For Kalina, this malfunction is unfortunately a normal occurrence if the brains are not put aside in time.

January 6, 2021, 03:10 #4

buy a disassembled kit of the entire injector system with a scythe and block, sensors, ignition switch, immobil., and a regular gas pedal. From any front-wheel drive VAZ fuel-injected car. This is a last resort option

To be honest, over 20 years, AvtoVAZ in the injector has succeeded a little in the novelty of usefulness and the old version will not be worse.

January 6, 2021, 04:27 #5

thanks for the answer, I was thinking about converting the injector to a cable but I like e-gas) and I know about the disease of viburnum with a heater radiator, but I thought this wouldn’t happen to me (thanks for the answer, if any firmware fits better, and even for e-gas I found it from trinashka, but I read the forums and they say it will still act up (

Lada Kalina 11183 Lada 4x4 2131

January 6, 2021, 12:29 #6 + 1

Engine control unit 11183-1411020-52 (for Kalina the last digits are -52. For Samara -02. For Grants -62). For Kalina there are several calibrations (firmwares) I444CB02, I444CC03, I444CD04, I444CE06, I444CE07, I444CE08 and I444CI07. Operation of the controller 11183-1411020-52 requires the use of a frequency mass air flow sensor 1118-1130010-00 and a new electronic throttle pipe.

Lada Kalina 11183 Lada 4x4 2131

January 6, 2021, 2:42 pm #7

Alekzander99, January 6, 2021, 03:10, #4

buy a disassembled kit of the entire injector system with a scythe and block, sensors, ignition switch, immobil., and a regular gas pedal. From any front-wheel drive VAZ fuel-injected car. This is an option as a last resort. Honestly, over 20 years, AvtoVAZ in the injector has succeeded a little in the novelty of usefulness and the old version will not be worse.

Then it’s easier to splash gasoline.

After trying to fasten a regular gas pedal with a cable.

Replacing the Lada Kalina ECU controller - step-by-step instructions

Greetings, dear friends and readers of our site. In today’s article I would like to talk to you about the ECU controllers for Lada Kalina 1 and 2. Well, if you look into the very structure of this post, we will talk about where the ECU controller is located, how to dismantle it yourself, and of course interchangeability controllers.

Where is the ECU controller located on the Lada Kalina

So, the Kalina engine control unit is located at the very bottom of the console, between the floor and the heating radiator. It is accessible from the passenger's feet.

To do this, you need to remove the plastic cover, which is attached with one screw. We unscrew it and move the lining forward along the direction of the car, after which it should completely disengage. We remove the cover to the side. Below it we see the following picture.

Location of the ECU controller on Lada Kalina

Location

The ECU on the Lada Kalina is located under the center console of the car. You can see it by removing the side cover of the front passenger's footwell air duct. The block is attached to a bolted connection and securely fixed in its place. The connectors of the unit are also tightly inserted into their place and secured with a special lock, which prevents the connector from spontaneously disconnecting from the ECU.

It is quite difficult to call this location of the engine control unit successful, since it is located exactly under the heater radiator and if there are leaks in the heater radiator, the coolant gets directly onto the engine block, which causes irreversible consequences and, of course, a breakdown or short circuit.

In some cases, there is a coolant leak at the ECU, it can be repaired, but most often it is necessary to replace the unit.

Why the ECU on the Lada Kalina does not work - the main reasons

One of the most common problems that Lada Kalina owners encounter is ECU failure. Let's look at the main reasons for controller failure:

• Failure due to a short circuit in the on-board network. Here, you can get by with little effort and solder the main resistors, or it will lead to complete combustion of the element.
• If liquid gets on the unit panel, which will lead to complete failure. Usually the ECU is filled with antifreeze.
• Illegal actions of third parties that will lead to ECU failure.
• Other reasons not previously stated.

All these reasons will serve as a reason for diagnosing and dismantling the car control unit.

Types of diagnostics

There are several different types and methods for diagnosing Lada Kalina.

Diagnostics on the dashboard

This type of diagnosis is quite common, but has a large number of disadvantages. With this method of identifying errors in a car, you will not be able to detect the cause of the breakdown. The instrument panel only displays a combination of numbers, supposedly with an error code, but, as a rule, such diagnostics have a high error and are often mistaken.

Diagnostics at a service station

This type of diagnosis is one of the most correct. During diagnostics at the station, a special professional device is connected to your car, which accurately determines the breakdown in your car. The big disadvantage of this method is its cost; craftsmen charge more than 1,000 rubles for their work just for one connection of the device to the car.

Diagnostics using ELM-327

Chinese craftsmen were able to make a device that is barely larger than the size of a matchbox, and whose functions are practically not inferior to a more expensive professional scanner. Since the OBD-2 connector is widely used, the ELM-327 scanner is suitable for many cars.

How to remove the ECU on a Lada Kalina - step-by-step instructions

In order to remove the ECU unit on a Lada Kalina, you must perform the following procedure:

1. First you need to unscrew 2 screws, the location of the first is shown by the arrow. The second is at the same level on the engine side. Before doing this, you must remember to remove the terminal from the battery. After unscrewing the screws, do you need to pull the block towards the passenger door? and he must leave from there along the guides. Sometimes it happens that the wires rest against the carpet. Then they need to be corrected.

2. In order to remove the connector and disconnect the unit from the wires, you first need to: pull the connector lock to the side. The latch is a bracket. I think you can easily find it on the connector.

What kind of ECUs are there on Kalina?

Below is a table with engine controllers that were installed on the Lada Kalina.

The ECU on Kalina is filled with antifreeze - what to do?

After the block filled with antifreeze has been removed, its initial inspection should be carried out. For these purposes, it is necessary to remove 4 screws using a star screwdriver. Then you should slowly remove the control board for a visual inspection. The most common failure is the burnout of the ignition coil output switch. In this case, repair will not help.

As a result of such a malfunction, the Lada Kalina starts working on only 2 cylinders, and sometimes refuses to start at all. You can cope with a similar problem in a stationary workshop. There they will remove the damaged element, wash and dry it. The second most common problem is board burnout. It is not difficult to detect such a defect: the characteristic blackening of the board will leave no doubt.

Is it possible to repair the ECU in this case? The answer to this question can only be given by a service center, but experience shows that repairs will not help here. A complete replacement is required. It happens that sometimes the brain circuitry is slightly damaged. If this happens, then the car owner can get off easy. To restore the car to working order, you will need some minor repairs:

1. wipe the block with a dry cloth;
2. rinse with WD-40 several times and blow it out with a compressor;
3. rinse several times in alcohol and blow again with a compressor;
4. dry well, otherwise the Lada Kalina will not move;
5. drying takes at least 1-2 hours.