How to change valve stem seals on a VAZ 2114

The rest of the procedure is performed in reverse order. We perform the same actions for the 2nd valve of this cylinder. Next we move on to cylinder 4. Having changed the caps on it, we rotate the crankshaft 180°. Using the same principle, they are replaced on the valves of cylinders 2 and 3. Replacing oil seals on a 16-valve engine differs only in the need to remove 2 camshafts. When installing the camshaft, be sure to tighten the nuts with a torque wrench. This should be done from the middle to the edge.

Conclusion

. The engine of any car requires attention. Therefore, it is extremely important to correct even small problems in a timely manner. Therefore, replacing valve seals on VAZ 2114 (2115) 8 and 16 valves should be done at the first sign of a problem. You don't need any additional equipment for this. When carrying out repairs, you need to do all actions as carefully as possible.

Replacing valve stem seals

You can replace the valve stem seals without removing the head from the cylinder block.

You will need: a tin rod with a diameter of about 8 mm (for example, solder), tweezers, a screwdriver, a mandrel for pressing the caps, oil seal pullers and valve springs.

1. Disconnect the wire from the “-” terminal of the battery.

3. Remove the timing pulley from the camshaft (see “Replacing the cylinder head gasket”.

4. Unscrew the two nuts 1 securing the ground wires and remove the wire ends from the studs. Then unscrew two nuts 2 and bolt 3 securing the rear cover of the cylinder head. Please note: there is an O-ring under the bolt head. Remove the back cover from the block head.

5. Unscrew evenly the four nuts securing the front 1 and six nuts securing the rear 2 camshaft bearing housings and remove the washers. Then remove both housings.

6. If the key in the camshaft groove does not fit tightly, remove it so as not to lose it.

How to replace the valve stem seals of a VAZ 2114 car with your own hands?

Tools

To work you need a set of devices and tools. All of them are familiar to any motorist and are available in almost every garage:

• Set of wrenches.
• Slotted screwdriver.
• Ratchet key.
• Tweezers, hammer and pliers (pliers).
• A rod with a diameter of about 8 mm made of soft metal.
• Mandrel for pressing seals.
• Device for removing crackers.

When preparing to replace “tired” valve stem seals on a VAZ 2114, problems may arise with the availability of a desiccant, because not every driver has one. However, having acquired this tool, the car owner will always be fully armed when repairing the cylinder head. In addition, it is advisable to have a torque wrench on hand.

Sequence of main transitions

Before getting started, you should perform a few basic operations. First of all, you need to disconnect the battery so that you don’t have to worry about choosing a battery for your car. Set the handbrake to the highest position. Further actions are performed in the following order:

• Unscrew the bolt of the clamp securing the crankcase ventilation hose using a Phillips screwdriver and remove it together with the pipe. Remove the remaining hoses in the same way.
• Unscrew the valve cover nuts and remove it.
• Using a 10mm wrench, unscrew the nuts securing the mass to the cylinder head.
• After unscrewing the screw and two nuts, remove the plug.
• Unscrew the screws of the front timing cover and remove it.
• Rotate the crankshaft until the marks coincide, remove the plug on the clutch housing and check that the marks match.
• Remove the generator pulley, loosen the roller fastening and remove the belt.

The procedure for replacing valve stem seals on a VAZ 2114 car continues in the same way on the 4th cylinder. Next, you need to rotate the crankshaft 180 degrees and repeat the process on the second and third cylinders. Motorists familiar with installing valve seals on Lada 2110 are familiar with the principle of operation, so completing the process will not be a particular problem for them.

On a car with a 16-valve engine, you need to remove two camshafts - this is the only difference in the repair technology with an internal combustion engine with 8 valves. When installing the camshaft in place, the nuts should be tightened with a torque wrench from the middle to the edge.

A visit to a service station: how much does it cost to replace valve stem seals from a private owner?

The story when a cheap part brings a lot of inconvenience begins with the valve seals. There is one problem associated with the same rubber band placed on the valve stem - over time, the part leaks oil into the combustion chamber. Trouble unites millions of car owners: from VAZ classics to modern BMWs, since not a single internal combustion engine will work for a long time without these seals.

Repair it yourself or trust the professionals - that is the question. We will outline the price tags and the level of complexity of independent intervention, and you choose what you can afford and what you can do.

What are valve stem seals (brief introduction)

Caps or oil seals are designed to prevent engine oil from entering the combustion chamber. It fits tightly to the timing valve (gas distribution mechanism), preventing oil from getting under the piston. Their function is reduced to removing oil from an intensively working valve.

Replacing oil seals

Worn oil seals allow oil to pass through the rod into the combustion chamber, where it is mixed with the fuel mixture. Burning under the piston, carbon deposits form on the seat and plate, which prevents the seat from tightly closing. Carbon deposits also deposit on the rings, the top of the cylinder and the piston bottom. The combustible mixture, coupled with motor lubricant, worsens the quality of combustion and the overall performance of the engine. The rubber caps, reinforced with a bushing and a spring, compress the valve stem with a sealed edge.

Replacing seals yourself will require having the following tools on hand:

• Oil seal remover.
• Device for removing crackers.
• Tweezers, flat screwdrivers (2 pieces), hammer, set of wrenches, sockets, ratchet, rags, rod (up to 8 mm made of soft metal), pliers.
• Mandrel for pressing new seals.
• A set of new oil seals.

Service price: how much does it cost to replace worn valve stem seals at a service station

Agree, a laconic answer is not appropriate here. What good is it if you look at special services for a number with the prefix “from” next to the name of the work. Not a word about the brand of the engine, the list of related actions and about the main thing - whose spare parts are.

It is almost impossible to collect data on prices for the operation of replacing valve stem seals on all cars within the framework of one article. Therefore, we will introduce a classic division by brand and classify the type of work - with or without removal of the cylinder head (cylinder head).

Table of cost of service station services for replacing MSK

With the “head” removed

The complexity of the design of Toyota and Mazda engines is not inferior to BMW, so the price tag is approximately the same - within 15,000 without dismantling the cylinder head. Servicing Kia Rio and Hyundai Solaris will cost a couple of thousand more than Lada Vesta.

The more cylinders, the greater the total. Making 1 valve costs an average of 500 rubles. The work is complicated by the intelligent phase control system. For example, the N46B20, a four-cylinder engine, is more complex than the M54B30 due to the presence of the Valvetronic valve lift control system.

What is included in the list of works for changing MSK

The VAZ classic has the shortest path to the caps, which is why repairs are cheap:

• Removing the valve cover.
• Removing the timing chain.
• Removing the camshaft.
• Valves desiccation.
• Changing rubber deflectors.
• Reassembly.

Already on injection-powered Priors, VAZ 2110 and Vestas you will have to work hard to remove the intake manifold. On foreign cars, it is necessary to contrive to dismantle the camshaft phase shifters and the valve lift control system. Getting all systems back on track is not an easy job.

Is it worth taking on?

Once you find out how much it costs to replace valve stem seals on an engine, you will probably begin to be interested in the complexity of the technology and the list of required tools. And indeed, oil seals cost nothing: about 500-1,000 rubles, why not replace them yourself?

We hasten to warn against such a temptation to save money. Theory is theory, and practice is practice:

• When performing an operation for the first time, you will probably encounter incomprehensible moments, and your ingenuity will work at the wrong time. For example, what do you think about a cracker flying into the engine compartment or a valve falling into the cylinder?
• It is unlikely that you will be able to assemble a BMW Valvetronic system or its analogues on other cars and adjust the unit the first time.

The downside is that once you have gained experience, you will definitely complete the task better than many servicemen.
Mistakes on their part are not uncommon. For example, many people damage the working edge of the valve stem seal, which is why it does not last long. If you decide to act alone, we recommend setting aside not 2-3 hours, as they write on many landing pages of private services, but a whole day, or better yet, two. The first time around, a 16-valve head takes 10 to 14 hours.

Which valve stem seals should I buy?

What is definitely worth taking on is the issue of selecting MSCs. Why? There are many fakes and quality problems with many official products.

Recently, Corteco products have been performing well. Many note that this is the only alternative to the original. By the way, not a single car manufacturer makes valve seals in its own production - they buy everything. For example, Toyota has an agreement with NOK, and Mercedes-Benz has an agreement with Viktor Reinz.

What you definitely shouldn’t take are the following products:

• Popularly known as Viti Reinza.
• FEBI.
• SWAG.

Viktor Reinz is not recommended to buy because of the large number of fakes and unreasonably high prices, others - simply because of mediocre quality. Erling caps are similar to Corteco, but have a more oaky feel. According to reviews, Erling is held a little worse than Cortek products, but they are highly popular due to their abundance in regional retail chains.

Attention! When choosing and installing, take into account the manufacturer's markings. For example, on Toyota 1ZZ-FE/3ZZ-FE engines, the original caps for the intake valves have a gray end painted, and for the exhaust valves - black.

Educational program

Valve seal design

MSK is a reinforced rubber bushing with a spring installed near the edge. The function of the compression ring is to press the seal against the valve stem. Excessive demands are placed not only on molds, but also on rubber:

• Resistant to high and low temperatures (-40°C…+115°C).
• Oil resistance.

Based on this, acrylate rubber (ACM) or fluorine rubber (FPM) can be used as a rubber material. There is no ideal option. ACM has a weak indicator of residual deformation during compression, while FPM has poor resistance to hot steam and low temperatures.

When to change oil caps

Based on the price that service stations charge for replacing old oil seals with new ones, I would like to change these parts less often. There is a list of main symptoms when intervention is definitely required:

1. Increased oil consumption (in the case of BMW, this is more than 400 ml per 1,000 km).
2. Blue smoke during cold start-up, and in advanced cases - when revving above 2,500 rpm.
3. The exhaust smells like burnt oil.
4. Oil rim on spark plugs.

The nature of the oil burn with current oil seals is special. Usually the engine takes lubricant only in the morning, during a cold start. In this case, immediately after starting there is a slightly blue smoke from the exhaust, then everything returns to normal.

What will happen if you do nothing

Oil in the combustion chamber is harmful. The service life of the catalyst is reduced and coke is formed in the working space of the cylinder. Lubricant that gets from under the caps is doubly harmful: the valve stem and plate coke, which is why it does not close tightly and burns out over time. And here decarbonizing the engine with dimexide will not help.

Replacement process for VAZ-2114

The procedure for replacing engine oil seals on a VAZ-2114 involves removing the cylinder head for the convenience of various technical manipulations. The appearance of dark blue exhaust from the muffler will indicate that the car needs to be repaired.

Skipping the basic details, you need to start by replacing the caps, following the recommended sequence:

1. Open the hood and disconnect the negative terminal of the battery.
2. Remove the high-voltage wires, unscrew the spark plugs.
3. Remove the timing belt (gas distribution mechanism).
4. Remove the cylinder head cover (GB), the camshaft timing belt pulley, without losing the keys.
5. Unscrew the rear cover fasteners without damaging the block gasket and other connections. The camshaft with end seals is removed. Only the bushing remains.

Next, the crankshaft is rotated until the piston reaches the TDC position, where the seal must be replaced.

To prevent the valve from falling out into the cylinder, the spark plug is turned out and a rod, preferably tin, is inserted into the hole, which will not damage the thread.

The valve spring is compressed by the device, and the crackers are easily removed with tweezers. In common parlance, the process is called desiccation. The upper and lower plates are removed. The cap is removed from the guide sleeve. To do this, a collet is installed on it and the cap is squeezed out with a sharp blow of a hammer on the sleeve of the device. The process is repeated with the second valve.

New oil seals, pre-lubricated from the inside with engine oil, are placed in a mandrel, pressed in, after which the springs and plates are installed. The crackers are inserted into the lower groove of the valve using a device. The crankshaft is rotated so that cylinder 2 is at TDC. The rod is removed from the spark plug hole and inserted into the next socket. The sequence of work is repeated in the order in which the parts were removed.

The camshaft supports, pusher adjustment washers, journals, and cams are lubricated with oil. Before installing the shaft support seal, it is advisable to check its technical condition. The valve clearance is adjusted if required.

The assembly is completed by connecting the battery terminals and starting the engine. The motor must operate without unnecessary noise, unless, of course, there are extra spare parts left.

Features of valve seals VAZ-2114 (8 valves)

Valve seals, also known as valve stem seals, are located directly on the cylinder head valve; in the VAZ-2114 engine there are 8 such valves. This part serves as a seal in the place where the valves of the gas distribution mechanism adhere to the guide bushings. Thanks to valve stem seals, excess oil does not enter the combustion chamber of a car engine. With their help, oil is consumed more economically.

Rapid wear of valve stem seals is associated with the heavy load they bear:

• at idle the crankshaft makes 700-800 rpm;
• when driving, the crankshaft makes up to 4500 rpm;
• valves range from 150 strokes per minute to 1200 strokes per minute;
• affected by an aggressive chemical environment - excess oil and exhaust gases.

Due to the above factors, the rubber from which the valve stem seals are made gradually becomes hard.

A change in the structure of the material leads to the fact that the working edges of the valve stem seal are abraded. You can determine the wear of the oil seal by looking at the exhaust smoke from the corresponding pipe - it turns blue when braking or starting the engine. Another symptom that the oil seal requires replacement is increased oil consumption rates - up to one liter per thousand kilometers.

The procedure for replacing oil seals should be carried out regularly at the first signs of wear. If this is not done in a timely manner, rough idling will occur. At the same time, the power of the vehicle is reduced, and the car engine may fail for a long time, which will lead to major repairs of the car.

Device

Oil seals are a modern version of valve seals, which are equipped with a powerful steel sleeve inside and an expander spring. Springs are used to secure the edges of the caps and valve stems.

Actual size of the caps

Gaskets are made primarily of rubber, which becomes harder over time and wear occurs, so the element ceases to properly perform its functions. As a result, oil ends up inside the combustion chamber.

There is only one sign of wear on the valve stem seals - thick blue smoke begins to actively pour out of the exhaust pipe, plus oil consumption increases.

There is only one solution to this situation - replacement.

How to correctly replace valve seals on a VAZ-2114 (8 valves)

To replace the valve stem seals of a VAZ-2114, you need to use a set of the following tools:

1. Pliers.
2. Tweezers.
3. Hammer.
4. Frame.
5. Solder tin.
6. Valve spring compressor.

Experts recommend using the following instructions to replace valve stem seals:

1. The terminals from the battery are removed (both “+” and “-”).
2. The candles are taken out.
3. The timing belt is removed.
4. Removing the toothed pulley from the camshaft:

• the wire of the first fastening is removed;
• Unscrew the nuts and the third mounting bolt.

1. All remaining nuts (on the front and rear covers) are unscrewed.
2. The washers are removed and the covers are removed.
3. The automotive camshaft is removed.
4. The crankshaft is rotated so that the cylinder piston stops at its dead center at the top.
5. The candle is turned out, and tin for soldering is inserted into the candle well.
6. The valves are dried with a special device.
7. The seals are removed from the bushing (you must make sure that there is no damage to the valve guides).
8. New seals are pressed in.

Next, all other oil seals are replaced, and assembly is carried out in the reverse order of removing the old oil seals:

• tin for solder is removed from the candle well;
• the entire working area is lubricated with engine oil;
• the camshaft block head support is mounted;
• the camshaft and bearing housings are installed;
• all nuts are tightened.

If you follow these instructions, you can replace the valve stem seals yourself at home.

Expert advice

When replacing valve stem seals on a VAZ-2114 (8 valves), experts recommend paying attention to important nuances:

• Before installation, new seals should be fitted with guides on the bushings that are included with the valve stem seals;
• after installing new oil seals, be sure to remove the guide bushings;
• as soon as the oil seal is installed in its place, you need to put on the spring;
• the replacement procedure should begin with the second valve of the cylinder, then move on to the fourth, etc.;
• after replacing the oil seals, the crankshaft must be rotated 180 degrees;
• after installing the camshaft, the nuts are made from the middle to the edge;
• All actions when replacing oil seals must be carried out clearly and accurately.

If you yourself are not sure that you will be able to correctly replace the valve stem seals yourself, then you can always turn to the nearest car service center for help.

In order for the VAZ-2114 oil seals (8 valves) to have good performance, experts recommend using high-quality motor oil. Poor quality engine oil can cause carbon deposits to accumulate in the cylinders, which will lead to a drop in compression.