How to replace the ignition switch on a VAZ 2115 ~ sis26.ru

Reasons for replacement

Many problems associated with the ignition switch can be eliminated by replacing only individual parts, and not the entire switch as a whole. You can buy a contact group or a lock cylinder separately. That is why repairs should begin with high-quality diagnostics. Main malfunctions and their symptoms:

The starter does not respond to turning the key. The reason is most likely in the contact group. To verify this, check whether power is supplied to the starter relay after turning the key to the On position (starter activation mode). If the relay clicks, it means that the system “sees” the key being turned and there can be no complaints about the components of the electrical circuit of the lock. On vehicles that are not designed to have a starter relay, the power should be checked at the corresponding terminal of the solenoid relay. For diagnostics, you can use a multimeter or a tester (one lead to ground, the other to the retractor contact coming from the ignition switch). If the retractor and wiring are in good condition, then the contact group has failed;
the key moves with a wedge. The problem is in the lock cylinder, as over time the mechanism wears out and becomes clogged. In this case, aerosol lubricants can only temporarily eliminate the malfunction;

The key does not turn to all positions. The reason is mechanical damage to the lock cylinder. It may also be due to jamming of the anti-theft locking mechanism of the steering shaft;
the key turns, but power does not come to the corresponding groups of contacts. The reason is in the contact group. The pinout of your vehicle's ignition switch can be found in the repair and maintenance manual.

Replacing the ignition switch on VAZ 2114 and 2115. Work in the evening

When the ignition switch is turned on, the starter does not turn. Why does the starter not respond to turning the ignition key? It also happens

A set of keys. It should include both regular keys and heads;
Phillips and slotted screwdrivers;
Pliers;
Thin chisel;
Hammer.

You should start by removing the steering wheel. To do this, use a slotted screwdriver to pry up and remove the trim with the Lada inscription (in some cases Lada). This will give you access to the 4 screws securing the steering wheel cover. Unscrew all the screws and remove the cover;
Lightly unscrew the nut securing the steering wheel. Don’t unscrew it completely right away;
We tear the steering wheel off the splines. At the same time, you need to apply quite a lot of force to it. To avoid damage, leave a nut that is not completely unscrewed as a limiter;
Next, you should completely unscrew the nut and remove the steering wheel from the car;
Remove the plastic casing from the steering column using a Phillips screwdriver;
The block and wires are disconnected from the ignition switch;
Turn the key to position I, this will remove the lock from the groove, and you will not have any problems when removing the unit;
To remove the ignition switch, you need to unscrew the bolts that secure it. This is where a little difficulty arises. For greater reliability and security, the bolt heads break off when installing the lock. To unscrew them, you need to use a thin chisel. It is placed on the head of the bolt and, applying light blows with a hammer, we unscrew the fastener. As soon as you manage to unscrew the bolt a little, finish the job using pliers. They do the same with the rest;
The old castle is being removed. If desired, it can be restored;
Reinstall the new or repaired lock. At the same time, be sure to make sure that the tongue blocking the steering wheel is in the correct position. Before installation, it should be recessed into the groove of the lock;
Tighten the screws securing the lock. Their heads are designed like a kind of torque wrenches. As soon as the tightening reaches the required torque, the head simply breaks off. Thus, the bolts are disposable. They are usually sold together with a lock or in separate repair kits;
A block with wires is connected to the contact group;
All removed parts are reinstalled.

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How to Replace the Ignition Switch on a VAZ 2115

Replacing the ignition switch on a VAZ 2114 on your own: what do you need to know?
Starting the engine, its systems, and additionally other fundamental devices and devices in cars of the Samara family is impossible without an ignition switch. Those car enthusiasts who have had to deal with a malfunction of this device know what its sudden breakdown leads to. Especially if it happens while passing through.

Further in the text of the article, let's talk about what the VAZ-2114 ignition switch is, look at its main malfunctions and methods for eliminating them. In addition, we will try to figure out how to change it with our own hands and connect it correctly.

In VAZ-2114 cars, the ignition switch, in contrast to the “classics”, is not located on the dashboard, but on the right, on the control column. It is covered with a plastic casing on top, so only the upper part of the “larva” is revealed to our eyes.

The VAZ-2114 ignition switch consists of 5 main parts:

iron body;
locking mechanism;
locking device;
contact group;
key

The device is placed in a metal case, which is designed to protect it from hacking. As for the locking mechanism, it is virtually no different from the usual door lock.

The locking device allows you to close the control shaft if the key is missing. In this simple way, it protects the car from theft. The contact group is the element that is responsible for starting the motor and its systems. The VAZ-2114 ignition key is used to unlock the locking device and activate a group of contacts. Without it, starting the engine without disassembling the device is unrealistic.

This is how the lock works. When the key is placed in the hole, its locking mechanism is deactivated. This happens due to the reverse movement of a special rod. By turning the key to the 1st position, you will power the “15” and “30” contacts. This will enable (unfortunately will not enable) the following elements:

ignition system;
headlight bulbs;
external light alarm;
instrument panel electrical equipment;
windshield wipers and washer;
cigarette lighter;
rear window defroster;
generator excitation winding.

In this case, in a VAZ-2114 car, move the ignition switch to the 2nd position, in addition to the listed equipment, the starter will start. As you can see, a lot depends on the serviceability of the device in question.

What are the symptoms of a broken ignition switch? The first question is that its malfunction can be either mechanical or electronic in nature. At the beginning it is:

lock jamming in one of the positions;
inability to unlock the control shaft;
turning on the ignition with a non-original key or with another object.

If the lock has an electronic malfunction, you can easily see the following symptoms:

the signal lamps on the device panel do not light up or light up and fade from time to time;
the starter does not start;
some do not work or our client is left with electrical appliances whose circuit is powered through the ignition switch (cigarette lighter, headlights, washer, wipers, etc.).

If the device jams due to wear and tear of the “larva” itself, otherwise due to problems with the contact group. When faced with a similar problem, you don’t need to use force to turn the key in the right direction! There is no need to “tear” the steering wheel if it is impossible to unlock it. It’s better to carefully disassemble the lock and find out what the reason is. Alas, such a step will be discussed a little later.

Having noticed that you can turn on the ignition in the car with any key or third-party object, hurry up and replace the “cylinder” or the complete device. This way you will protect your own car from possible theft.

Pinout of the ignition switch VAZ-2101 - VAZ-2107

The ignition switch on these cars is located to the left of the steering column. It is fixed directly to it using two fixing bolts. The entire mechanism of the device, except for the upper part in which the keyhole is located, is hidden by a plastic casing.

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On the visible part of the ignition switch housing, special marks are applied in a certain order, allowing inexperienced drivers to navigate the lock activation mode when the key is in the hole:

“ ” – a mark indicating that all systems, devices and instruments that are turned on using the lock are turned off (this does not include the cigarette lighter, interior lighting, brake light, and in some cases the radio);
“ I ” is a mark informing that the vehicle’s on-board network is powered from the battery. In this position, the key is fixed independently, and electricity is supplied to the ignition system, to the electric motors of the heater and windshield washer, instrumentation, headlights and light signaling;
“ II ” – engine start mark. It indicates that voltage is applied to the starter. The key does not lock in this position. If you release it, it will return to the "I" position. This is done so as not to subject the starter to unnecessary loads;
“ III ” – parking mark. If you remove the key from the ignition in this position, the steering column will be locked with a latch. It can only be unlocked by inserting the key back and turning it to position “0” or “I”.

The ignition switch has five contacts and, accordingly, five terminals, which are responsible for supplying voltage to the desired unit. All of them are numbered for convenience. Each pin corresponds to a wire of a certain color:

“50” – output responsible for supplying current to the starter (red or purple wire);
“15” – terminal through which voltage is supplied to the ignition system, to the electric motors of the heater, washer, and instrument panel (double blue wire with a black stripe);
“30” and “30/1” – constant “plus” (pink and brown wires, respectively);
“INT” – external lighting and light signaling (double black wire).

Recommendations

Signs of a CV joint failure: CV joint diagnostics and how to check the drive

Reassembling and lubricating individual parts will not work if the fragments are heavily worn. It is better to remove the cylinder from the core and install a new one. Recommendations for replacing the VAZ 2114 door lock:

Partial repairs or lubrication will only temporarily restore life to the closing mechanism. If problems arise, it is better to replace the entire cylinder.
After installation, it is necessary to periodically lubricate the mechanism. Experienced motorists use silicone substances for this.
The repair procedure is carried out in a well-lit room at a comfortable temperature.
To change the element, you will need a set of screwdrivers, pliers and lubricant.
Sometimes the springs have to be replaced along with the cylinder. They are purchased separately.

The cylinder fragment is sold as a set. The price depends on the manufacturer. If you buy a cheap Chinese version, it will cost about 150 rubles. It is better to give preference to VAZ spare parts. The cost of such a kit is 400-500 rubles.

Tips for replacing the door lock cylinder on a VAZ 2114

The main symptoms of a malfunction of the knock sensor on a VAZ-2112 16 valves

Often, when repairing a door handle lock, it turns out that severe wear of the part leads to the need to replace several elements of the device. You can try to restore the lock, but such repairs will not help for long and after a while you will have to start solving this problem again.

When using the car for a long time, it is recommended to inspect the door locks from time to time and replace the part if necessary. Before removing the lock cylinder from the package or from the door handle, be sure to insert the key into the lock hole. Otherwise, this threatens the pins falling out of the lock grooves, which will be problematic to put in place.

On a VAZ 2114, replacing the door lock cylinder is a job that you can do yourself, if you have free time and the necessary tools. To change the lock cylinder you will need:

open-end wrenches “8” and “10”;
pliers;
WD-40 lubricant;
flat and Phillips screwdriver;
new lock cylinders and springs for VAZ 2114.

The price for a set of door lock cylinders with a trunk lock for a VAZ 2114 manufactured by VAZ with article number 21140610004520 is 400 rubles, and its analogue with article number 21140-610004520 from the manufacturer DAAZ is 450 rubles. The price is indicated for spring 2021 in Moscow and the region.

1Use a Phillips screwdriver to unscrew the three screws at the bottom of the trim.

2Remove the cover. We take the front shutter glass position switch out of the pocket along with the wiring harness block, disconnecting it from the wire switch.

3Using a screwdriver, remove the armrest handle cap.

4Use a Phillips screwdriver to unscrew the 2 screws securing the armrest handle to the inner door panel.

5Press the fasteners securing the inner lock handle trim to the door panel...

7 Carefully, using a screwdriver, remove the six pins from the holes in the door panel and remove the door card.

8Using an 8 wrench, unscrew the two nuts securing the outer lock handle. First one...

10 Disconnect the outer handle rods and the lock switch from the internal lock.

11Remove the outer lock door handle with rods.

12Then remove the pin from the end of the rods.

14Remove the plastic rod end from the door lock cylinder.

15Remove the locking spring by removing its ends from the slots on the cylinder and on the lock handle.

16 We take out the old lock cylinder along with the key.

17Unpack the new set of larvae. Having previously lubricated all the rubbing parts with grease, we insert the lock into the door handle.

18Install a new cylinder return spring.

19When turning the key, the key should return back from any position.

20Install the pin on the tip of the rotary rod. The handle is assembled. We carry out further assembly in reverse order.

The larva has a cylindrical shape, which is activated when the key is turned in the well. If the mechanism jams and makes it difficult to open/close, then one day the driver simply will not be able to get behind the wheel of his car. Therefore, if the device does not operate correctly, it is recommended to replace the door lock cylinder with a VAZ 2114.

Replacing the ignition switch contact group

You will need: chisel, hammer, screwdriver.

1. Remove the ignition switch (see “Removing and installing the ignition switch”).

2. Disconnect the wire block from the backlight lamp socket.

3. Using a screwdriver, unfasten the latch on one side.

4. Then unfasten the two latches on the other side...

5. ...and remove the plastic cover from the lock body.

6. Using a screwdriver, unfasten the two latches on both sides of the cover...

7. ...and remove the contact group and light guide from the cover.

8. Clean the oxidized or burnt contacts of the plate on the light guide with fine-grained sandpaper.

9. If the contacts are severely damaged, replace the contact plate on the light guide. To do this, rotate the contact plate so that its internal protrusions fit into the slots of the light guide...

10. ...and remove the plate along with the return spring. Replace a broken or cracked return spring.

11. Install the spring and slip ring on the light guide in the reverse order of removal

In this case, pay attention to the fact that the protrusions on the inner surface of the light guide should be opposite the wide outer protrusion of the plate

12. Clean oxidized or burnt contacts with fine sandpaper. If the contacts are severely damaged, replace the contact group. To do this, you need to unsolder three wires from the contacts.

13. When assembling the lock, first install the light guide with the contact plate on the base of the contact group so that the long protrusion of the plate is opposite the stop on the base.

14. Place the cover on the base so that the top of the light guide fits into the hole in the cover. Secure the base to the lid with latches.

15. Install the cover with the contact group on the lock body in the reverse order of removal

Please note that the protrusion on the lock cylinder must be between two protrusions on the inner surface of the light guide

Installation and connection of the ignition switch VAZ -2114

The algorithm for installing the lock and connecting it to the on-board network is as follows:

We insert the key into the hole and turn it to the first position. This way we will hide the rod that blocks the steering shaft.
We install a new lock on the column by placing a bracket.
We tighten the bolts securing the lock, but not completely. You may also need to adjust the position of the device.
We check the operation of the locking device. To do this, pull the key out of the “cylinder”, tugging it to the sides. The steering wheel should lock. If there is no locking, adjust the position of the lock relative to the steering shaft. The rod should fit easily into the groove on the steering shaft.
After this, insert the key and turn it to the first position. The steering wheel should unlock. We check several times to make sure that the device is working properly.
Now you can tighten the lock bolts. Twist until their heads fall off.
We connect the ignition switch wiring harness block.
We connect the wires of the hazard warning button.
Connect the negative terminal to the battery. We check the operation of the device in all possible modes.
We install the plastic casing on the steering column.

How to check the ignition switch of a VAZ 2114

There are several ways to determine the source of the problem:

diagnostic;
visual.

First you need to check the car's reaction to different positions of the key in the lock. To begin with, the key must be set to position number one, which is also the ignition. If the module is in order, all the car's electrics should work. However, in the case when all or part of the electrical system does not work, we can conclude that the lock is damaged.

In position number two of the key, the engine starts, for which the starter is turned on. If, when you turn the key, you do not hear the sounds of the starter operating (rotation), as well as the sound of the relay clicking, then either the ignition switch or the starter itself is broken. In this case, you need to run a diagnostic to get other details about the problem. In this case, you will need a multimeter set to ohmmeter mode. Also, before removing or installing the lock, you need to remove the steering column cover.

Pinout of the ignition switch VAZ-2114:

+12V comes for the inserted key sensor microswitch;
the mass comes when the driver's door is open;
+12V goes to the starter (pin 50);
+12V goes out after turning on the ignition (pin 15);
+12V goes out when the key is inserted to pin 5 of the BSK;
comes +12V to illuminate the lock cylinder;
+12V comes from the battery (pin 30);
not used.

The first thing to do is disconnect the ignition switch power connector.
After this, connect the multimeter to wires four and seven, and then do the same with wires fifteen and thirty, respectively.
Turn the key in the lock to position number one. If during testing the node is not damaged, the multimeter should show a zero resistance value.
Next you need to turn the key to position number two. The resistance on the multimeter screen, as in the case described above, should have a zero value.

In a situation where, after checking the lock with a multimeter, the resistance value in at least one of the cases was not equal to zero, it needs to be replaced. Otherwise, the lock is working properly and other components of the car should be checked for malfunctions.

Ignition switch 2114 and the procedure for replacing it yourself

In what cases is replacement required?

There are several situations when replacement of the seal is necessary:

malfunction of the unit itself;
loss of keys;
mechanical damage to the protection during theft;
contact group malfunction.

3Z device diagram

A unit malfunction can be detected when the engine starts. When the starter does not spin, the solenoid relay does not click, and electrical equipment does not work. Failures can be mechanical or electrical.

How to determine the malfunction?

The visual method is to check the behavior of the machine at different key positions. First, the key is set to the right position - “ignition”. If the unit is working properly, then all electrical equipment works. If there are any problems with the electrical system, either all or part of the electrical equipment does not work.

Turning the key in the lock

In the second position of the key, the starter should start. If it does not spin and you cannot hear the click of the retractor relay under the hood, then it is possible that either the starter or the starter is faulty. More specific information can be obtained using diagnostics. This is done with a multimeter set to ohmmeter mode. To carry out diagnostics, you need to remove the steering column cover.

Next you need to do the following:

Disconnect power from the 3Z.
Next, find pins 4 and 7 coming from the node. They correspond to pins “30” and “15”, and connect the multimeter terminals to them.
Then the key in the 3Z turns to the first position. If the unit is working properly, the resistance should be zero.
Then the operation of the unit is checked when the key is turned to position II. Likewise, the multimeter should show zero resistance if the circuit breaker is working properly.

Once you are convinced that the protection device is faulty, it must be replaced (the author of the video is Region 4253).

Preparation

First of all, you should prepare for the replacement procedure by preparing an electrical circuit diagram and the necessary materials and tools:

new node;
4 assembly mounting screws;
chisel;
a set of keys;
Phillips screwdriver;
hammer;
pliers.

ZZ for a VAZ car

For ease of operation, remove the cover from the steering column and switches.

Dismantling the casing is carried out step by step:

First of all, the car is de-energized by disconnecting the negative terminal from the battery.
Use a Phillips screwdriver to unscrew the screws securing the casing.
Then the self-tapping screw is unscrewed, with which the housing is secured.
Now you need to remove the screws holding the lower part of the housing to the steering column.
At the next stage, the lever is lowered down, with the help of which the steering column is fixed at the angle, and the steering wheel.
Next, the lower casing is dismantled.
After disconnecting the power supply, you can remove the upper part of the casing.
To remove the steering column switches, press the locking elements and remove the elements from their standard places.
The switches should also be disconnected from the power supply.

Removing a faulty device

Having opened access to the protection zone, you can dismantle it. The difficulty of dismantling is that there are no heads on the 4 bolts that secure the ignition switch to the steering column on the VAZ 2114. The absence of heads prevents criminals from stealing a car without a key.

Dismantling with hammer and chisel

Dismantling of the protection zone is carried out as follows:

you need to loosen the bolts using a hammer and chisel;
then the loosened bolts are removed with pliers;
then the bracket is removed from the steering column;
the power supply is turned off;
Now you can dismantle the unit.

The node connection diagram is simple. If it is purchased assembled, then it is not difficult to understand the diagram in order to connect the wires correctly.

Installing a new lock

The procedure for installing the ignition switch on a VAZ consists of the following steps:

first you need to install the key in the new unit in position “I”, then the latch, thanks to which the steering wheel is locked, will hide;
then the protection is mounted and the actions are performed in the reverse order of removal;
After tightening the 4 bolts, you need to tighten them a little.

After installing the new unit, you need to check the steering lock. To do this, remove the key from the lock and turn the steering wheel to a small angle. If the steering wheel does not lock, you must install the unit correctly: the latch must fit into the groove located on the steering column. If the locking function works, all you have to do is tighten all the breakaway bolts until they stop. You need to tighten them until the heads are broken.

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Troubleshooting Methods

There are two methods for detecting faults:

Visual;
Diagnostic.

Ignition switch diagram
We suggest studying a visual method for determining a malfunction or breakdown of the contact elements of the ignition switch using the table.

Action	The device is working properly	The device is faulty
Turn the key to the right position (ignition)	All electrical equipment turns on	All or part of the electrical equipment does not work
Turn the key to the second position	The starter is spinning	The starter does not work, the traction relay does not click under the hood

But diagnostics allows you to get a more detailed answer. In addition, a visual inspection will not give you the opportunity to find all the reasons that could cause the ignition switch to break down.

To work, you will need a mini-tester and a multimeter in ohmmeter mode:

Disconnect the power supply from the ignition switch. To do this, you need to remove the skin from the steering column;
Switch your multimeter to an ohmmeter;
On the block coming from the lock you need to find pins 7 and 4, which correspond to pins 15 and 30;
Connect the multimeter probes to them;
Turn the key to the “Ignition” position;
On the block, find pins 7 and 3, corresponding to 50 and 30. Also connect a multimeter to them;
Turn the key to the second position - Start the engine;
If serviceability is present, the device will show zero resistance in both test cases.

Why you may need to replace the ignition switch

There can be several reasons for this problem, the most common of which are:

The lock is broken; after all, it is constantly subject to wear and tear.
Lost keys.
Damage caused by attempted theft.
Malfunction of the connector with wires.

The malfunction can be easily determined when the engine is turned on, if the sound of the starter is not heard, the relay clicks, or the electrical equipment simply does not turn on. There are several ways to determine the source of the problem:

diagnostic;
visual.

In this case, you will need a multimeter set to ohmmeter mode. Also, before removing or installing the lock, you need to remove the steering column cover.

+12V comes for the inserted key sensor microswitch;
the mass comes when the driver's door is open;
+12V goes to the starter (pin 50);
+12V goes out after turning on the ignition (pin 15);
+12V goes out when the key is inserted to pin 5 of the BSK;
comes +12V to illuminate the lock cylinder;
+12V comes from the battery (pin 30);
not used.

The first thing to do is disconnect the ignition switch power connector.
After this, connect the multimeter to wires four and seven, and then do the same with wires fifteen and thirty, respectively.
Turn the key in the lock to position number one. If during testing the node is not damaged, the multimeter should show a zero resistance value.
Next you need to turn the key to position number two. The resistance on the multimeter screen, as in the case described above, should have a zero value.

A new ignition switch will be needed. It is quite easy to find original parts and analogues on the Internet, but it is worth considering that it is advisable to purchase the lock “assembled”.

Catalog number of the original VAZ 2114 ignition switch: 21103704010. Approximate price: 500 rubles for a used part and 1200 for a new one.

As a replacement, you can use analogues with numbers: 09401, 24370407. Approximate price: 1000 rubles (new part). In addition to the lock itself, you will need the following tools:

spanners;
chisel;
pliers;
screwdriver.

Before you begin, you must also remove the steering column cover and steering column switches.

Pinout of lock VAZ-2110, VAZ-2111, VAZ-2112

Pinout of the ignition switch VAZ-2110:

comes +12V for the microphone of the sensor of the inserted key;
the mass comes when the driver's door is open;
+12V goes to the starter (pin 50);
+12V goes out after turning on the ignition (pin 15);
+12V goes out when the key is inserted to pin 5 of the BSK;
comes +12V to illuminate the lock cylinder;
+12V comes from the battery (pin 30);
not used.

Read more: How many liters is the trunk of the Lada Granta sedan

Replacing the ignition module yourself

So, first of all, we are looking for a module (for those who don’t know). The PVNs from the spark plugs go to it.

Remove the negative terminal from the battery
Disconnect the wire block from the module
Disconnect the PVN
Unscrew the module itself and remove it
Now install the new module and reassemble in reverse order.

When installing, do not confuse the position of the PVN on the reel.

Helpful note! If you are installing a new coil and old wires, pay attention to them. If there are yellow stripes on the tips of the spark plugs and wires, then the wires need to be replaced.

After replacing the module, you need to check its operation

We start the engine and enjoy the work done.

After replacing the module, you need to check its operation. We start the engine and enjoy the work done.

In the article brought to your attention, we will pay attention to an electronic device called the ignition module of the VAZ 2115 car. Or, more precisely, its description, circuit diagram and performance check.

This module includes two high-voltage transformers and two control units (electronic), enclosed in a durable plastic case with four high-voltage wire outputs

Electronic control units are also commonly called ignition coils, and one of them - “working” - is connected to the spark plugs of the first and fourth cylinders of the power unit, the other - “idle” - with the spark plugs of the second and third.

This module consists of two high-voltage transformers and two control units (electronic), enclosed in a durable plastic case with four outputs of high-voltage wires. Electronic control units are also commonly called ignition coils, and one of them - “working” - is connected to the spark plugs of the first and fourth cylinders of the power unit, the other - “idle” - with the spark plugs of the second and third.

The VAZ 2115 ignition module is controlled by a controller whose operating functions include processing data received from vehicle system sensors: coolant temperature, rotation speed and position of the crankshaft, air flow, presence of detonation, etc.

The circuit diagram and connection diagram of this electronic device is presented below.

The only negative point in the operation of this electronic device is its complete inability to repair. However, even a novice car enthusiast can replace it on his own.

Unstable operation of the power plant when accelerating the vehicle.
Decrease in engine power.
“Intermittent” idle speed.
Malfunction of paired (1/4 - 2/3) engine cylinders.

Self-replacement of the ignition switch of a VAZ 2108

For this work, you need to use special bolts with break-away heads; I do not recommend using twenty-millimeter M6 bolts instead, since in this case it will be easier not only for you, but also for car thieves to remove your ignition switch.
Using a chisel, you need to unscrew or knock down the bolts.

Before replacing the lock, turn the key to the “I” position so that the latch that locks the steering shaft mechanism can enter the lock body.
Now that nothing is in the way, you can begin installing the new ignition switch.
Install it on the steering column, secure it with a bracket, then tighten the structure with new mounting bolts.
After installation, do not forget to make sure that the steering shaft locking mechanism is working correctly; if the mechanism does not work, after a full turn of the steering wheel, you need to adjust the position of the ignition switch on the steering column.
Upon completion of adjusting the position and checking the functionality of the locking mechanism, tighten the bolts until the heads are completely torn off, to do this, use a 10mm spanner.

Start the engine, make sure it is operating correctly and there are no problems with starting, if everything is in order, we conclude: replacing the VAZ 2108 ignition switch with your own hands was a success!

Main signs of failure

Drivers need to take into account during operation that breakdowns can occur both due to failure of the mechanical part and due to problems with the electrical system. Popular mechanical problems manifest themselves in the following factors:

the lock is stuck in one position and there is no way to unlock it without using significant effort;
the steering column is jammed;
an attempt was made to gain unauthorized access to the lock using a master key or other object unsuitable for this purpose.

The electrical part may also fail. This can be determined by the following factors:

the starter does not rotate after turning the key to the desired position;
The dashboard indicator lights do not light up or go out after a short time;
the operation of devices activated through the lock positions is unstable or absent.

Other factors that are less common among motorists may also occur. They are resolved according to the identified breakdowns.

What should I do if the problem remains after replacing the module?

If, after performing the repair, problems in the operation of the MH remain, then there is a possibility that the cause of the problem was not in the module. It is necessary to diagnose the remaining elements of the ignition system.

Spark plugs and ignition system

Features of checking spark plugs and other components:

Before dismantling the devices, it is necessary to disconnect the ends of the high-voltage cables. Their condition is checked for damage. Defects in the tips often lead to malfunctions in the spark plugs. If there is damage, the wires are replaced. It is also necessary to assess the condition of the “high-voltage workers” themselves. They are not allowed to have any defects or damage to the insulation.
After disconnecting the tips, the spark plugs are dismantled and a special spark plug wrench is used to unscrew them.
After dismantling, the condition of the devices is assessed. The color of the parts must be brown; carbon deposits and soot on the electrodes are not allowed. If there are uncharacteristic marks, the devices are cleaned using a metal brush or fine-grained sandpaper. For a better effect, the electrodes of the candles can be heated on the stove.
The condition of the gap between the part and the electrode element is checked. If it is too large, this indicates that the device is not working correctly. The spark plugs will need to be replaced.

Steering lock testing

If you don't check the steering lock, you may encounter certain problems in the future. Therefore, do not waste your time on this event. It consists of removing the key from the ignition and turning the steering wheel at a slight angle.

If there is no lock, you will need to slightly adjust the position of the lock. Make sure it fits into the groove located on the steering shaft.
If the locking is effective, you will only need to tighten the four installed breakaway bolts until they stop. Twist until the heads break.

It is worth noting one very important nuance. Some people don't find it necessary to use breakaway bolts. Instead, the most common fixing bolts with a length of 20 millimeters and an M6 thread are used. On the one hand, this will make it easier to remove the device in the future, if such an event is required again. On the other hand, in the absence of a reliable anti-theft system, voluntarily giving attackers access to your car is not the best idea.

When the lock installation is completed and the test has passed, do not forget to connect the device to power and start the engine. If it starts, all systems dependent on the ignition switch are working, you can fully begin reassembly. Follow the reverse instructions for removing the casing and steering column switches. It would not be amiss to check the condition of certain nodes along the way. It is quite possible that some of them also need replacement or a little preventive maintenance.

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Replacing the ignition switch on VAZ 2110 and 2112. Typical problems

Lada Kalina wagon Luta Logbook Replacing the ignition switch. Fiddling with keys

Mechanical problems. The most common malfunction is the failure of the larva. The keys are made of soft metal, which makes them not very reliable and often leads to them breaking off. Steering wheel lock. Key stuck in the on position;
Wear of the contact group.

Phillips and slotted screwdriver;
Chisel. You will need something thin and sharp;
Hammer;
Pliers;
Key for 10.

Remove the steering wheel covers. The manufacturer also recommends removing the steering wheel. This is not required, but is advisable;
The steering column turn switch is removed. To do this, the latches securing it are released and the switch is removed from the column;
Disconnect the wiring block;
The bolts holding the lock to the steering column are quite tricky. Their caps break off when twisted. Therefore, it will not be possible to unscrew this fastener with a regular key. To do this, take a chisel and set it at a certain angle. Then, with gentle blows, we tear the bolt out of place, and then you can unscrew it using pliers. The same applies to other bolts, there are 4 in total;
After this, you can remove the old lock;
When installing the lock, please note that bolts are supplied with it. According to the manufacturer's idea, their heads break off when tightened to a certain point. Instead, you can use M6 bolts of suitable length. This work has no other special features.

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Replacing the ignition switch on a VAZ 2115, 2114

Replacing the ignition switch of a VAZ 2114, VAZ 2115 may be necessary in the event of a malfunction of the contact group, jamming of the mechanism, or simply wear.

The procedure is not complicated, so let's get started.

Before the replacement itself, it is necessary to purchase bolts with break-away heads. It is not recommended to replace them with regular ones with M6 thread, because... In addition to you, car thieves can easily remove the lock.

Before replacing the lock, turn the key to the “I” position so that the latch locking the steering shaft mechanism can enter the lock body.

It is necessary to disconnect the battery by removing the wire from the “—” terminal
Next, remove the steering wheel. To do this, remove the decorative trim on the steering wheel and unscrew the horn cover.
Then, having unscrewed the steering wheel fastening nut not completely, we knock the steering wheel off the splines. After this, finally unscrew the nut.
Remove the plastic covers from the steering column.
Disconnect the block with the ignition switch wires.
Use a chisel to knock the heads off the old bolts holding the ignition switch in place.
Remove the old lock and install a new one in its place. Before installation, press the locking tab into the new ignition switch.
Check that the steering shaft is locked correctly.
Once you have completed adjusting the position and checking the functionality of the locking mechanism, tighten the bolts until the heads are completely free. Do this using the 10 key.
Connect the wiring harness of the new ignition switch.
Start the engine, make sure that the ignition switch is working correctly and that there are no problems with starting. If everything is in order, then we can conclude: the replacement of the ignition switch of the VAZ 2114, 2115 was carried out successfully!

Previous posts from the category: VAZ 2114

If engine oil or coolant appears around the perimeter of the connection of the cylinder head with the cylinder block itself, it is necessary to replace the cylinder head gasket of the VAZ 2114, VAZ 2115. A leak can also occur due to a change in the shape of the cylinder head after the engine overheats.

After prolonged use of a VAZ-2114, VAZ 2115, for no particular reason, an extraneous sound may arise from the front axle area in the form of a whistle.

Typical malfunctions of VAZ 2114, 2115 injectors: -difficulty starting the engine; — unstable engine operation; — the engine stalls at idle; — increased crankshaft rotation speed at idle; — the engine does not develop full power; — jerks and dips in engine operation when the car is moving; — increased fuel consumption; - increased content of CO and CH

The clutch briefly disconnects the engine and transmission and then smoothly connects it to start moving and change gears.

Replacing the stove fan of a VAZ 2114, 2115 may be necessary if it completely fails, or if it constantly operates only at 3rd speed.

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Source

https://remontysvoimirukami.ru/remont-vaz-svoimi-rukami/remont-zamka-zazhiganija-vaz-2115-svoimi-rukami.html

Replacing the ignition switch on a VAZ car

To carry out repair work to replace the ignition switch of a vase, we will need: a screwdriver, a tester and a thin awl. Once you have everything you need, you can begin the repair. On all classic VAZ cars, the ignition switch is located at the bottom, on the left of the steering column. To replace you need:

Disconnect battery
Remove the plastic casing by first unscrewing the screws that secure it.
Then unscrew the two screws securing the ignition switch to the bracket.
We insert the key and set it to position 0 to disable the anti-theft device.
Insert the awl into the hole in the bracket and press the latch. Then we take out the lock itself.
After removal, it is recommended to mark the contact wires so that nothing is mixed up the next time you connect.

Removing the ignition switch on a VAZ-2106 begins with disassembling the steering column casing. We unscrew the five bolts and remove its halves. Before you begin disassembling the electrical part of the lock, it is very useful to disconnect the battery by removing the negative terminal or unscrewing the switch bolt. After this, remove the spring retaining ring from the back of the lock body and remove the contact group. We move it to the side so that it does not interfere, and we begin to remove the lock itself.

It is secured in the steering shaft bracket with two bolts, after unscrewing which nothing happens. It is useless to try to remove the lock from its socket if you do not know about the special stopper. It is located on the lock body under the bracket. We press this stopper into the lock with a thin screwdriver through a small hole in the bracket. Further, according to all the instructions, the lock should be pulled out freely, but this does not work.

An obstacle that is not described anywhere is the anti-theft rod. Even though it is in a “disconnected” state, it still clings to the steering shaft. To remove the lock, you have to manipulate the key. In different positions of the lock cylinder, the anti-theft device also moves and is recessed as much as possible when the key is in the “Starter” position. After a few minutes the lock can be pulled out of the bracket.

Read more: How to check the ignition coil of a Polo sedan

Here is the time to write that assembly of the unit should be carried out in the reverse order of removal. And in general, this will be true. First you need to insert the new lock into the bracket, recessing the latch and holding the key in the starter position, tighten the fastening bolts, then connect the wires. Particular attention must be paid to this, because an incorrectly connected contact group can damage the starter or ignition system. We reconnect the wires from the old group to the new one one at a time, checking the numbers on the contacts. After this, we assemble the steering column casing.

On the car, the ignition switch is located on the driver's side, mounted on the left side of the steering wheel on the steering gear bracket, under the instrument panel.

First of all, you need to get rid of the decorative casing of the steering shaft, unscrew the fastening screws and remove it. We performed similar actions when replacing the steering shaft.

After removing the decorative casing, unscrew the two screws securing the ignition switch to the body, then insert the key into the lock and turn on the “0” position, which turns off the anti-theft device. Through the hole in the bracket, press the lock lock with a thin awl and remove the ignition switch from the mounting socket. This completes the repair work to remove the ignition switch.

On VAZ 2108 and higher models, a package with wires is connected to the lock, that is, nothing needs to be marked and the possibility of mixing up the wires when installing a new switch is completely eliminated. Well, on VAZ 2107 and lower models, this is not the case, each wire is connected separately, so when removing each wire, it must be marked so as not to be confused during further installation.

To replace the contact group of the ignition switch, you need to use a thin screwdriver or an awl to pry the retaining ring from the edge and remove the contact part. When installing a new contact part, orient it so that terminals “15” and “30” are on the side of the locking rod.

At this point, the repair work is completed, install the new ignition switch in the reverse order of removal, connect the wires, transferring the markings from the old switch to the new one. The pinout or connection diagram of the VAZ ignition switch wires is quite simple and understandable, so every car enthusiast can carry out repairs or replace a spare part without the help of car service employees.

The other day the ignition switch began to jam, having looked at the drive for a solution to the problem - everyone has a problem with the spring in the lock. I didn’t disassemble the lock and change the spring; I simply bought a factory lock as a replacement.

I WARN YOU IMMEDIATELY!
FIRST WE DISMOUNT THE OLD LOCK, AND NOT BUY A NEW LOCK IN ADVANCE! Locks may differ, they are installed in two types from 2110 and 2114. (When installing a lock from 2108 it will be “generally fun” www.drive2.ru/l/288230376152458953/)
First of all, remove the terminals from the battery.

We're filming. steering column cover. From the bottom, unscrew the 3 screws and 3 self-tapping screws with a “plus” screwdriver.

Lower the handle and position the steering wheel.

Characteristics of a contact group

To begin with, we suggest finding out why an ignition switch contact group is needed, what its structure is and how it works.

Purpose and functions

In essence, KGZZ is used to ensure the connection of all electrical circuits of the vehicle without exception. That is, when the driver turns the key in the lock, the KGZZ closes the contacts, thus allowing the use of all electrical devices without exception.

Device

Diagram of the lock The ignition switch itself is a simple circuit breaker. When you turn the key, the contacts are adjusted, making it possible to start the engine, power the equipment, and also stop the power unit. If you disassemble the body of the lock itself, you will see that the device itself is located inside it, as well as a large number of wires connected to each other. The wires to the lock come from the battery.

The contact group of the ignition switch itself goes directly to the connection point of these electrical devices. To prevent short circuits and to delimit the contact elements themselves, the KGZZ is mounted in a plastic case.

Principle of operation

An automobile ignition system can be either battery-based or generator-based. Their fundamental difference is that battery ignition is equipped with an autonomous power source; accordingly, all electrical equipment can be turned on without starting the engine. As for the generator system, in this case, activation of electrical equipment is possible only after starting the engine.

When the driver turns the key in the lock, the electrical circuit contacts are closed from the negative terminal on the battery to the coil. At the same time, voltage begins to flow through the wiring to the lock, which is supplied to the coil through contacts, after which it returns to the positive output of the battery.

At the moment when the voltage passes through the coil, a very high voltage is generated in it, which is subsequently transmitted to the spark plugs. Ultimately, the contacts close and the engine starts. In addition to the ignition circuit itself, there are other electrical circuits in the car that conduct voltage from the key to electrical appliances. Each of the wires is responsible for connecting the contacts to each other (the author of the video is the Auto Repair and Maintenance channel).

Basic faults

Briefly about the reasons why repair of the ignition switch contact group may be required:

Overloading of the device, which may be due to the installation of additional devices of increased power, as a result of which a higher voltage will pass through the KGZZ. For some time, the device can cope with this current, but over time, carbon deposits will begin to form on it. It should be noted that this deposit, as a rule, appears precisely inside the contact, and not on its surface, then the only way out is to replace the contact group. To prevent this problem, all additional devices must be connected via fuses or relays.
Short circuit in the electrical network. If a short circuit occurs, this may also cause high power voltage to pass through the CGZZ, which again will cause its failure.
Many motorists who changed the KGZZ faced the problem of abrasion of the tracks, as well as the contacts themselves. This problem usually occurs as a result of wear and tear on the lock, but in some cases the cause may be faulty.
Mechanical failure of contact elements, as well as other components of the group.
Overheating of the device, which can lead to damage to the design of the CGZZ. Overheating, as a rule, also occurs as a result of increased load on the device. When working in conditions of elevated temperatures, the tracks may move or even break (video author - AlexAvtoKhlam).

Signs of a faulty ignition switch on a VAZ-2114 photo and video

Communities Lada Priora Lada Priora Club Blog Ignition switch wires

Many motorists have encountered the fact that the ignition switch on a VAZ-2114 fails. But not many people know the causes and signs of malfunction. In this article, we will consider not only the problems of occurrence, but also methods for solving and diagnosing this node.

Signs of a broken ignition switch

Ignition switch removed for repair

Naturally, as with any automotive device, the ignition switch has signs of malfunction. Unlike other components, the contact group will disable several devices at once, which will cause the malfunction. So, let's look at what signs can be used to determine the failure of the ignition switch:

The starter does not work. It does not click, and the solenoid relay does not operate. This happens because they are not supplied with power that passes through the ignition switch.
Failure of electrical appliances. These elements may not be connected in any way, but they all turn on only when the contact group is working.
When you move the key in one position, the operation of electrical appliances resumes. The contacts simply close and the power supply is restored.

Causes of malfunction of the ignition switch on the VAZ-2114

Ignition switch device diagram

There are only two known causes of malfunction of the ignition switch on a car, namely: electrical and mechanical. Both of them arise due to wear of certain parts and assemblies. So, it’s worth considering each malfunction in more detail.

Electrical fault

The primary reason for the failure of the contact group is overloading the electrical equipment of the car.

Thus, installing additional lighting devices and power-consuming devices may lead to the lock not being able to withstand the load. Due to the large load for which the contact group is not designed, carbon deposits appear, which form inside the metal, and not outside.

Disassembling the ignition switch to troubleshoot

To avoid overloading the ignition switch, all additional devices must be connected through a relay, which will relieve part of the load. As practice shows, this particular solution to the problem becomes optimal.

Of course, another reason that can cause the ignition switch to fail is a short circuit, which occurs quite often in Ladas.

The wire was “unsoldered” as a result of a short circuit

As some car enthusiasts say, this is inherent in them from birth, or rather from the manufacturer’s factory.

Mechanical failure

To diagnose mechanical problems, the lock will need to be removed. We have already written about removal in the material: replacing the ignition switch on a VAZ-2114.

Mechanical damage to the ignition switch is considered to be wear of the contact tracks or the contacts themselves. The reason here is that the internal elements have worn out from the process of operation, and this is in no way the owner’s fault.

Breakage of the castle swing. The difficulty is that this element is not sold separately.

The second mechanical reason is the physical breakdown of one element of the ignition switch. Often, as a rule, these are contacts that have been worn out, or were initially made poorly by the manufacturer.

The last mechanical reason is that the faulty contacts begin to get very hot and the plastic part of the ignition switch housing begins to melt, which in turn leads to a malfunction.

Elimination methods

Ignition switch contact group

Of course, the surest way to eliminate the causes is to replace the car's ignition switch assembly. As practice shows, it is not worth experimenting and carrying out repair and restoration work on this unit.

Recommendations

In order to protect the ignition switch from premature wear, it is necessary to install additional electrically consuming devices via a relay.

Diagram with additional starter relay

Connecting an additional starter relay from the ignition switch under the hood

This will remove the load from the contact group and there will be no overload.

On the new generation of the car, the FFA system is installed, which is specially designed to prevent and reduce the load on certain electrical components of the car. So, there is a similar home-made system for cars of the domestic automobile industry, which can be installed on the Lada family.

There are many reasons and signs of malfunction of the VAZ-2114 ignition switch, but you need to know them. Also, it is worth noting that in order to prolong the operation of this unit, it is necessary to remove the load from the passing current circuit. To do this, additional electrical appliances must be connected via a relay.