Eibach Pro Kit springs and lowering of landing VAZ 2110, 2111, 2112

How to lower a VAZ 2114 correctly

Message by tazmen72 » 07 Jul 2012, 14:33
I’ve been reading the forum for a long time, but I decided to register and ask for advice on undervaluation.

what we have: 2114 with standard suspension, r13 wheels, 175/75 tires

in the future I plan to change the wheels to white forged r15 with tires something like 195/50

you need to lower it without sawing the arches or shuffling your wheels against them.

Which struts with springs are best to buy? Or maybe it’s better to cut the drain, because I don’t need rigidity, but I need a beautiful fit? And is it really possible to do it yourself, is there a lot of hassle in replacing the struts, or should I go to a hundred?

Now I’ll try to find pictures of chepyreks on the Internet with a lowering that I like

Lowering a car (for example, lowering a VAZ ) is one of the most common areas of tuning a VAZ.

The most common solution for novice tuners is to take and cut off several coils of suspension springs. Some manage to do this without even removing the shock absorbers from the car. This approach to undervaluing a car is fundamentally wrong.

By cutting the spring, the support coil, which is made to contact the support cup, is lost. Due to its absence, the spring warps, it flies off the support cup, and the load is distributed unevenly. %product1_l% All this leads to incorrect operation of the spring and its further breakage. By reducing the height of a standard spring, you also increase its stiffness, while the stress in the metal increases and its service life decreases.

A suspension spring is only one element of a car's suspension. When lowering the vases, it is also necessary to select the necessary shock absorbers. There are many types of shock absorbers that are designed to lower a vehicle to suit specific suspension springs. This means that if you want to lower your VAZ by 50 mm, then you will need springs lowered by 50 mm and a set of shock absorbers with modified characteristics designed to lower them by 50 mm. These components cannot be used separately for the reason that the spring must be clamped between the upper and lower cups. If, for example, you decide to install springs with a 50 mm lowering on standard shock absorbers, then the length of the shock absorber rod will be too long, because it is designed for the height of the standard rod. %product2_r% For shock absorbers designed for lowering springs, the length of the rod has been changed to properly fix the spring. In addition, when using springs for large lowering, to reduce the load on the steering, the mounting points for the steering tips have been moved to the racks.

For proper operation of suspension tuning, it is necessary to use a complete suspension kit, which necessarily includes springs and shock absorbers made for them. Our online store offers several options for lowering a VAZ car. %product3_l% Lowering is possible from 20 to 90 mm. When lowered by more than 90 mm, normal suspension operation is almost impossible to achieve.

To ensure the longevity of your suspension, we recommend always using new rebound buffers and all shock rod boots. The support bearings of the front struts also play an important role. Good quality journal bearings can reduce steering force by up to 10%.

In our store you can buy ready-made suspension kits for lowering your car, or assemble them yourself.

Lowering VAZ 2114

Lowering of VAZ 2114 front -50, rear -70 mm. Apparently it won't be short. Probably 70-80% of 2108-2114 owners have thoughts of lowering the car. I also wanted the car to look better, but not to shake. Understating the BPAN is still not my thing, especially since there is a need to drive not only around the city.

It became

The situation was complicated by the fact that I had no experience in working with/changing the suspension.
For a whole year I thought and decided what and how to do. Just sawing is not my thing, I drove such cars, not very well. As a result, I found a person who has sufficient experience to advise me on a worthwhile understatement. And I brought life together with this man. So, I explained to him what and how I wanted in the end. He proposed a compromise option: lowering -50/-70, and then, he said, this is close and even a lot for the suspension to work well. Deep down I disagreed because... I wanted either -70 around, or -70/-90, but I listened to him, because... I have a lot of experience, but I am guided 80-90% by emotion and desire for appearance. Among other things, he had contacts in Togliatti at Demfi, the opportunity to order racks specifically for springs from the local Kulibin and assemble them manually. So, we decided together (he advised, and I wisely agreed): 1)
Demfi Premium struts, manual lowering -50/-70
2)
Evolex supports
3)
Springs I bought earlier - Tehnoressor -50/-70
4)
SS20 bump stops Struts and the supports arrived from Togliatti in about a month and a half, bought additional boots and bumpers, and went to install them (also on recommendation). After installation, I went to the breakdown. The result is that it has become tougher, but not critical. The car does not chatter, does not shake, the suspension works as it should. I also sometimes travel as a passenger in a Note, Teana, Passat CC, Corolla - of course, it cannot be compared with the softness, but these are other cars. Moreover, there was a contrast, because On the day of changing the suspension, I changed the winter R-14 to the summer R-15. The car has become more stable in turns; I can consistently take the same turns in a higher gear. The only “BUT” is that it was just a little short of the lowering that I wanted. Ideally, it would be even lower by -40/-20 mm, I think this would not affect pragmatism (I wouldn’t start scraping the asphalt with my belly), but it would look very cool. If this desire does not go away further, I will think about something.

Was

It became

When I first bought the car, it had spacers on the back for the rear shock absorbers. But it didn’t bother me then. Then I wanted to lower it, a year later I did it, I lowered it primarily so that the car would steer, I didn’t want to spend 15 thousand on short-stroke struts and springs (as well as 15 thousand themselves)), so I cut 2 by 2 turns, but the back turned out to be high, and then another turn at the back, for a total of 2 by 3.

I really liked the way the car behaved; you could take corners, it still stood as if on rails, and at the same time you didn’t have to worry about the ground clearance, it was enough to drive everywhere without any problems, just like on stock.

But the struts were damaged, and after about 5 months the car began to rock on bumps, and on potholes, due to the short stroke, the suspension was punched, and all these blows go wherever you think, right, on the body and on your back, the panel keeps rattling, the radio I failed once, and the hard blows to the back made me sick. And by winter the landing was over, I bought new standard struts and springs.

I immediately began to notice that there was a lack of controllability, and I’ll tell you why now. The fact that the center of gravity is high is already understandable, but the main bullshit is that the ass is higher than the front, plus the entire mass of the car in front, it turns out that the front is overloaded, and when you go into a turn, the car leans on the front wheel on the outer side of the turn and the ass in the back dangles slightly when there's shit in the hole, there's no grip. The castor also turns out to be small or even negative. Also, there is no comfort, again due to incorrect weight distribution. Well, now the main thing is how to solve this problem. Well, yes, lower your ass. 2 turns will be just right. It’s better not to touch the front because the suspension travel decreases, and with it comfort and ground clearance, which is necessary to leave the yard in winter, or when driving on a snow-covered road on which an obstacle may arise in the middle of the road that will not be possible to get around; such situations have happened to me, In general, lowering the front will only worsen the properties of the car.

By lowering the rear, we get advantages in the form of better weight distribution, and this is always very much appreciated in cars. Now the ass is more confident in turns, there is no roll on the front wheel, the load is distributed more evenly between the front and rear. Comfort has increased, again due to weight distribution, because the front wheels are not overloaded. The castor has increased, which means the car turns better and easier, and also drives straight when accelerating, rather than throwing it in all directions as before. The car tilted back and even sitting in the chair became more comfortable. Regarding the transportation of bags of potatoes and other things, don’t worry, nothing will be rubbed. That’s actually all that I planned to talk about on this topic, I was convinced from my own experience that this understatement is the best solution and comfortable for everyday use.

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Answers (2)

It's quite simple. Topics such as how to lower or tune a VAZ 2113, 2114 or any other Russian car have long been known and a lot has been done and written. But nevertheless, you can give some recommendations and give ways on how to do this.

1) Wheels and tires. Choose those wheels that you like and that visually match the color and design of the car. But the most important thing is to comply with the standard parameters, in particular the bolt pattern, which in the VAZ 2113, like other Ladas, is 4X98, the approximate width is up to 6.0 J - otherwise the wheels will stick out, the offset is ET30-40 - if less, then the wheels can also stick out a lot or touch the arches or calipers. The centering hole - TsO 58.5 - if it doesn’t fit, it can be easily solved with spacer rings.

In general, there are a lot of rims for the R15 for the VAZ, and inexpensive ones, on average 2500 rubles per rim costs. Rubber is more expensive. For 15-inch wheels, you need to look for tires with parameters - 195/50 R15 - such summer tires - cost an average of 3,000 rubles. So calculate how much it will turn out: 10,000 rubles wheels + 12,0000 tires + 22,000 rubles. But you can, of course, find used options that will cost much less.

2) Let's move on to the second point, which is important - this is an underestimation. There are many ways to lower it, even to the point of carrying bags of cement in the trunk and in the back row of seats. But let's list the simplest ways:

1) Cut off a couple of turns from the spring. You can easily do such tuning yourself, or in any normal service - they will do such a service for you for 500-1000 rubles. The disadvantages of this method are that you will feel all the bumps very strongly, and stability will not improve

2) Replace the standard springs with sports, shortened ones, which themselves are stiffer, and at the same time, the car will be more stable when cornering and on a straight line. The cost of this approach will be on average 5000-6000 rubles + labor.

3) The most interesting way to lower vases or cans is to install air suspension. It’s expensive, around 20,000 rubles including work, but in your area, and just in the city, you will become the coolest guy thanks to the Vase with air suspension. You can adjust the ground clearance, etc.

As for tinting, everything is simple. You stop by any tinting shop and for 2000-2500 rubles they will tint your windows. I do not recommend tinting the windshield and front side windows, as this may result in a fine and removal of license plates. Oh, and by the way, recently it has become fashionable among fans of the Russian automobile industry not to tint the windows at all - to drive like in an aquarium.

How to lower a VAZ 2114 with your own hands

Recently, there has been a tendency among young people to undervalue their cars. As they say: “A low pelvis is pleasing to the eye!” I’ll say right away that if you decide to lower your VAZ, you can do this in several ways, but the easiest and cheapest is to cut the springs. But, I want to warn you that on bumps it will not be very pleasant, due to the fact that all the impacts will go to the bump stops, the spring will not smooth them out much. If this doesn’t stop you, as in principle it doesn’t stop me, then this article is for you  And this article is also for those who don’t like the fact that the back of the VAZ 2110 is much higher than the front. To level them, you can cut off just a couple of turns - this will not affect the behavior of the car.

Lowering options

1. Buy a ready-made suspension kit. It includes: springs, struts, etc. This is the simplest, most convenient and expensive option, replacing almost the entire suspension at once. It will cost from 12,000+ rubles. This is the safest option, especially if you get quality parts and install everything correctly. If you choose this option, then do not forget about the wheel alignment.

2. The best option is to replace only springs with a smaller turn stroke. This will lower your car and add rigidity, without any harmful consequences for the car. You can also just buy a regular spring, but stiffer and lower. The range of prices is huge, but from about 3k rubles.

3. There is an option to move the spring cup down. But here you are playing the lottery, since it is very dangerous to do it yourself. - You may weld poorly - The stand is not guaranteed to be able to withstand high temperatures during welding. But don’t be discouraged, such racks are sold ready-made.

4. Cutting springs. Most people simply cut the coils off the spring. And this should not be done under any circumstances! In this case, the stroke of the rod decreases and when it gets into a hole, the strut does not have enough free play and it hits the body. Also, a sawn spring can become warped and it will also hit the body and spoil the suspension. Has proven itself to be excellent.

How to lower a VAZ 2114 correctly

Post by tazmen72 » 07 Jul 2012, 14:33

I've been reading the forum for a long time, but I decided to register and ask for advice on undervaluation.

what we have: 2114 with standard suspension, r13 wheels, 175/75 tires

in the future I plan to change the wheels to white forged r15 with tires something like 195/50

you need to lower it without sawing the arches or shuffling your wheels against them.

Now I’ll try to find pictures of chepyreks on the Internet with a lowering that I like

Lowering a car (for example, lowering a VAZ ) is one of the most common areas of tuning a VAZ.

In our store you can buy ready-made suspension kits for lowering your car, or assemble them yourself.

Correct lowering of VAZ 2110

These springs allow you to lower the car to the desired height, significantly improve handling, reduce sagging during acceleration and braking, and body roll when cornering.

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Applicability

VAZ 2108-2110
VAZ 1117,1119 (LADA Kalina)
VAZ 2190 (LADA Granta)
VAZ 2170 (LADA Priora)

Benefits of SS20 Racing Lowering Springs

lowering to the desired height -30, -50, -70 while maintaining comfort;
stylish sporty appearance of the car;
improving aerodynamics, increasing the speed characteristics of the car;
stability and safety at high speed;
improved handling when maneuvering at high speed;
reduction of “dive” and body roll during braking, “squat” during acceleration.

Guarantee

The SS20 Racing lowering springs are a new addition to the SS20 SPORT series of products for drivers who prefer a fast, active driving style. These are springs for those who care not only about the appearance of the car, but also about the correct operation of the suspension and steering when the ground clearance is lowered, confidence and safety on sharp turns.

SS20 Racing lowering springs have the following features

made of high-quality Japanese steel using the cold-winding , which significantly increases the service life;
have progressive characteristics: optimal suspension stiffness at low loads and a proportional increase in stiffness as the vehicle load increases, during roll when cornering or extreme braking;
matched in pairs with identical characteristics, which ensures even lowering without body distortion;
work without shrinkage 2 times longer than hot-rolled springs;
the weight of the springs is reduced to 25% compared to the standard ones (depending on the car model);
have a durable and resistant powder coating that protects against corrosion;
have a polyurethane protective braid that protects the coils from damage when closed;
When installed with SS20 Racing Series shocks, these springs provide your choice of -30, -50, -70 or -90mm drop.

Lowering a car or reducing ground clearance is one of the most modern areas of tuning today. To give their car confidence in driving, stability when maneuvering at a decent speed, and simply make it more stylish and sporty, car owners use different methods.

Some people simply cut through the springs due to lack of information or finances. You can’t expect a super effect from such economical tuning. But it’s cheap, and the car looks sporty and stylish in appearance. But you have to pay for this with convenience - you ride “like on a stool”, strong vibration shakes up the interior and everything starts to rattle. But this is not even the main thing: when cutting standard springs, it is impossible to achieve their identical characteristics, and this method leads to deformation and weakening of the body, gradual destruction of the front suspension cups, hard metal impacts on the body, and the appearance of cracks. And these are irrevocable serious losses that significantly reduce the performance and cost of the car.

Another option is that if you have the financial means, you can buy expensive suspension parts from the best manufacturers and assemble everything together. But it is not a fact that after this you will get what you dreamed of. Because to lower a car you need not only good expensive hardware, but also their coordinated work and the correct calculation of each suspension element. Moreover, it is necessary to take into account the changes made to the suspension geometry, and try to maintain the controllability and comfort of the car, and not disrupt the operation of the braking system.

Answers (2)

Understatement -70/-90 at 2114

Greetings to my subscribers. Well, as we understand, we will talk about underestimation. For a long time I wanted to lower the car, but never got around to it. So I drove for 7 years without understating it. The factory suspension was there all along. I drove 78 thousand on it. Well, more or less the suspension was still alive.

So I chose Aston struts, SS-20 cups, Technoresor springs, rear donuts, SS-20 sound insulators too, Demfi bumpers, TRT balls with polyurethane covers, I also installed polyurethane boots on the front and rear. At first it was very unusual to drive with such a lowered suspension, but I got used to it and even began to like it. Now it’s possible to maneuver at a relatively high speed, there is no roll at all, the car seems to be nailed to the road. Very pleased with the stands. I didn't put spacers on the balls. I also replaced the external grenade covers with polyurethane ones.