​Lada Granta won't start - photos and videos, starter won't turn, immobilizer blinks


The starter does not turn on the Lada Granta. Where to look for the reason

In any situation when the engine of a Lada Grant does not start and the starter does not turn, you need to proceed from what exactly went wrong and what foreshadowed this. For example, when you turn the ignition key, the starter does not show any signs of life at all, but the instrument panel lights up as if nothing had happened and the fuel pump hums. But it also happens differently. Now we will try to simulate several situations and one of the solutions should work exactly.

The starter does not turn, the instrument panel does not light up

When you turn the ignition key, the car is more dead than alive - nothing happens. But we know that with proper electrical equipment and battery power, at least something should come to life. We conclude that the battery charge has dropped below critical, or there is no contact at one of the terminals. In addition, we check the quality of the contact of the ground wire from the battery to the body.

Unscrew, clean, tighten. Now let's measure the battery charge. If you don’t have a tester, it doesn’t matter, you can check with a simple 12-volt lamp and understand from the intensity of the filament that there is no charge at all or the reason is something else. To test this option, it would be good to have a 100% working battery on hand.

The starter does not turn on the Grant, the tidy is on. Immobilizer?

If, when you turn the ignition key, the dashboard lights up and you can hear the operation of the fuel pump, we will look for the reason in the following: for unknown reasons, AvtoVAZ engineers put it on the same line with the standard immobilizer. What prompted them to do this is unknown, but if we overloaded the fuse the day before by turning on some powerful device, then the fuse may not withstand restarting.

Everything is simple here. We install a new 15A fuse, according to the diagram it is called F20 and is installed in the interior mounting block, after making sure that the old one has burned out. If this is the cause of our troubles, good. But it could be different. The immobilizer is a capricious thing. If we see a warning light on the dashboard with a flashing key, and the starter does not turn, we need specialist intervention.

The lamp may remain on for 10 seconds and then go off. This is a sure sign that the immo is disabled or not activated.

When we are sure that everything is in order with the wiring and voltage, it may be necessary to retrain the key. We figured out how this is done not long ago.

Starter circuit: fuses, relays and contacts

Everything is obvious here. If the immobilizer lamp does not blink, we are looking for trouble in the starter circuit. In the case when the fuel pump does work. We start with the fuse and relay:

Just in case, the location of the relays and fuses is duplicated on the covers of the mounting blocks, and to get to the interior unit, it is enough to unfasten the plastic casing and overcome the force of five latches. The cover is located to the left of the driver.

Next, if the Grant does not start and the starter still does not start turning, open the hood and find the starter. We carefully examine all the wires connected to it, in particular the power ones. If there is too much dirt or rust on the back of the starter, there is a chance that the contacts have oxidized. We unscrew the starter terminals (after first removing the negative terminal from the battery), clean the terminals and put everything back in place.

Starter and how to deal with it on Grant

Actually, we can say with a high degree of probability that the starter windings have come to an end if we don’t hear any sounds from under the hood when we turn the key to the “start” mode. The windings can be rewound, but it is cheaper to buy a new or used starter.

We turn the key, and from under the hood we hear clicking and clattering noises, but the starter does not turn. This is better, since in this case all the signs of burnt contacts of the solenoid relay are evident. This can be solved by a few hours of fiddling with dismantling the starter and cleaning or replacing the “nickels” and contacts of the solenoid relay. In any case, the involvement of the retractor and the rest of the starter circuit in the breakdown can be found out by closing the contacts with a powerful screwdriver: if the starter works in this case, you need to look in the circuit before it.

Starter solenoid relay

Among the mechanical reasons for a non-working starter, wear of the overrunning clutch gear and bendix is ​​often noted. When the gear teeth are licked, it cannot engage with the flywheel ring. But then the starter motor will spin and we will hear the grinding of teeth. This can be treated by replacing the bendix.

Overrunning clutch

Voltage drop in the circuit or non-contact

One of the reasons why the starter may refuse to work may be a voltage drop in the on-board network under load. We know that the minimum voltage to start the engine must be at least 11.4 Volts. The normal value is 12-14.5 V. The voltage in the network can be viewed on the on-board computer or measured with a multimeter directly at the starter contacts - plus at the power terminal, minus at ground with the ignition on.

We measure the voltage on contacts C and D

The most logical solution in this case is to charge the battery or light a cigarette from another car and let the engine run for 10-15 minutes to charge the battery.

In addition to the above reasons, there are more complicated moments. For example, the electronic engine control unit may malfunction and then the starter may simply not turn when the key is turned to start mode. In other cases, when the engine of a Lada Granta does not start, but the starter still works and turns, we will look into it next time, since this is a completely different story.

If the engine is blocked from starting

On domestic cars, there are often cases when, due to the appearance of various malfunctions, the immobilizer system begins to fail, the immobilizer lights up on the panel, preventing the vehicle’s engine from starting.

If the car does not start, you can use the emergency immobilizer shutdown procedure by entering a special code into the electronic engine control unit by pressing the accelerator pedal in a given sequence. Each car model has its own instructions for this procedure, developed by the vehicle manufacturer.

Causes

A faulty immobilizer blocks the engine from starting and prevents the driver from using the vehicle for its intended purpose. What can lead to immobilizer failure:

  • a dead battery in the identification chip in the immo operating on a radio channel;
  • failure of the chip with the code, which is built into the key;
  • damage and breakage of the coil wound on the ignition switch;
  • damage to the electrical circuits powering the immobilizer or connecting it to the electronic engine control system;
  • damage to information in the read-only memory (ROM) of the anti-theft system or engine ECU due to powerful electromagnetic disturbance;
  • starting the starter and engine ignition system when the battery is insufficiently charged;
  • removing the terminals from the battery with the ignition on.

What to do

If the immobilizer has blocked the engine from starting, you must do the following:

  • If you suspect that the battery in the identification chip is low, use a duplicate or replace the battery in it. In cars of medium and high price categories, there is a special slot in which, when placed in it, an electronic key with a discharged battery will work.
  • When purchasing a car, the driver is given 3 keys. 2 working black and 1 training with red insert. The chips of the working keys are registered in the memory of the anti-theft system, and with their help you can write 5 more keys into it yourself according to the factory instructions. Having spare chips will eliminate the problem of their failure.
  • Unlocking the engine ignition system in the event of failure of the power supply circuits of the immo and engine ECU will occur when the fault is repaired by an auto electrician.
  • An open circuit in the pumping circuit at the ignition switch can be checked using an additional emulator connected in parallel via a diode and a relay to the main coil. If it works and the engine starts, then the coil has failed. You can also check it “for an open circuit” using a multimeter, after first disconnecting it from the electrical circuit.
  • Unblocking engine starting if information in the ROM of the electronic engine control unit or immobilizer is deleted or damaged is only possible after deleting the damaged data and flashing the memory using special equipment and software.

Why the car won't start - the simplest option

If the Lada does not respond to turning the ignition key and at the same time does not turn the starter, then you should not look for a breakdown in the fuel system. Everything may turn out to be much simpler or much more difficult.

The most obvious option is a blown Granta fuse. First of all, check the one responsible for the cigarette lighter. By the way, there was some confusion with him. So, the diagram with which the car is equipped at the factory indicates that its number is F20. In reality, the required protective device is located at location F27.

The nuance is that the fuse is responsible not only for the cigarette lighter, but also for the immobilizer. If the latter is de-energized, the car will not be able to start. The check is very simple - press the horn (it is also powered through the mentioned device). If there is no signal, then the conclusion is obvious.

In general, problems with the immobilizer are indicated by the reluctance of the engine to start against the background of normal functioning of the dashboard backlight. At the same time, the indicator with the image of a key will also flash here.

To gain access to the mounting block, you will have to remove the decorative panel of the Lada steering wheel. Find the fuse and replace it. There is also a relay responsible for powering the starter. His number is K3. Study this element too. If there is no visible evidence of a malfunction, try installing a known good part into the socket and starting the engine.

If the Grant still does not start, then look for a breakdown further.

How to fix the problem?

  1. The first option is to try using an additional key to start the vehicle. In theory, every owner of a car with an immobilizer integrated into it has a spare copy key with which the engine is started. If the car is able to start immediately after detecting the presence of the correct key, then the problem is that the main key is broken or malfunctioning.

Note: If you only have one key, you should be extremely careful with it so as not to lose it. Restoring it will cost the driver a fairly large sum. You will have to seek the services of dealers to create a kind of “crawler key”.

  1. Solution number two. If, after trying to use the spare key, the immobilizer continues to act up, you will have to seek help from professionals to reprogram the unit system. The principle of operation is this: an additional key is purchased, then it must be combined with the “native” electronic control unit. To carry out this procedure, you need a special PIN code, issued after purchasing the car. The problem is that the coding is issued once, and if you did not purchase the car from an official center and they did not tell you the code, then you need to go buy a new control unit.
  2. The third version of the problem may occur if the receiving antenna through which the main unit receives the signal malfunctions. Sometimes the receiving antenna malfunctions if its contacts are damaged. The antenna, in this case, is unable to determine the authenticity of the key. The receiving antenna is located in the cabin itself in the place where the ignition switch is located. In this case, to activate the contacts, you can move the ignition switch. There are cases in which oxidation of contacts occurs; in such cases, a special mixture of WD-40 will help. But the most optimal would be to purchase another antenna or lock.
  3. The fourth solution to the problem is to purchase a so-called immobilizer bypass. You can purchase the device either at a car dealership, or you can assemble it manually. In case number two, you will need experience working with electronic devices, as well as a chip device or chip.

There are other problems associated with the negative operation of the anti-theft device. For example, some users complain that the immobilizer beeps and the light on the device blinks continuously. Fortunately, this is not such a serious problem. Sometimes, every ten or twenty minutes, the beeper makes an unpleasant squeak, and the immobilizer light constantly blinks at this time. To fix this problem, it will be enough to replace the batteries in the key fob with others. After this, the immo will stop constantly beeping and blinking.

We believe that after careful consideration of the issue, this problem has finally exhausted itself. There are also other methods for solving the problem of immobilizer malfunction, but we tried to talk only about the most effective solutions. After several unsuccessful attempts to correct the situation on your own, it would be better to seek help from specialists. Immobilizer repair services are not cheap, however, this way you “will cause much less trouble.”

An immobilizer (or otherwise immobilizer) has become a mandatory device in cars since the 90s of the last century. It prevents the engine from starting with a non-original key in case of car theft or unauthorized entry.

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In the practice of operating a car, there are often cases when the original key is inserted into the ignition switch, but the immobilizer does not see it (refuses to recognize it), the car does not start, or it starts and stalls after a few seconds. What to do in such situations?

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Problems with the immobilizer (APS)

Often the Lada Granta does not start due to improper operation of the APS. If it is activated, the key is read and the engine starts. The immobilizer (APS) identifies the “native” key by reading the code from it.

If it is incorrect, then the APS blocks the operation of all vehicle systems. Here it is necessary to immediately clarify that APS is not activated upon sale in all trim levels. Lada Granta sedan is equipped with an anti-theft alarm in models 023, 024 and 050.

Lada Granta liftback in the 711, 713, 750 and 751 configurations. Many car dealers cheat when selling and say that the immobilizer cannot be activated. But by law they must do this at the request of the car owner.

If the key is not registered, the indicator lights up continuously for about 20 seconds. without blinking, and then goes out. During training, blinking occurs at a frequency of 5 Hz, at the end of training at a frequency of 10 Hz. When problems arise in the system, a sound alert is added to the light indication; it appears at the 10th and 20th second.

Decoding signals:

1 signal + flashing indicator – the code from the key cannot be read, possible reasons:

  • problems in the communication coil circuit. In this case, you need to check the resistance and inspect the circuit;
  • There is no transponder in the key. To eliminate the problem in the training key, you should check the presence of the transponder and its markings; if it is missing, then use a “clean” key and the CSUD to retrain the entire system;
  • The transponder (located in the red key, you need to remove the red head) may be broken. In this case, for a training key, you need to retrain the system with a clean key, and for a working key with a remote control, you need to replace the remote control with a new one and train the system again;

    Transpoder

  • Remote control "alien". In this case, you need to replace it with a clean one and retrain.

2 beeps + flashing indicator – the relationship between the APS and the ICS is broken, possible malfunctions:

  • There was a communication failure on the w line. In this case, it is necessary to eliminate violations in the chain between the APS and the ICS;
  • violation in the APS and KSUD chain. It is necessary to replace them one by one to identify where the malfunction occurred;
  • there is no voltage on the APS and KSUD power supply. In this case, you need to check and restore the voltage.

3 beeps + intermittent indication - “foreign” key or APS. In this case, it is necessary to carry out training using a “clean” key and a “clean” KSUD. For APS, you need to configure the system using a training key native to the ICS.

4 signals + flashing indicator – the controller does not provide confirmation to start the engine. This suggests that the KSUD has already been trained with another system; it needs to be changed to a clean one and retrained.

To find out exactly the cause, it is necessary to make a diagnosis. If the controller is broken, it must be replaced and re-learned.

If there is an APS, then you need to replace it and train it along with all the working keys, since structurally in the Lada Granta the APS is located in the instrument cluster.

If there is a suspicion that the keys have been read, then retraining should also be done.

Step-by-step instructions for training the immobilizer and working keys:

  • close the driver's door tightly;
  • turn on the ignition using the red key;
  • turn off the ignition and remove the key, the indicator flashes at a frequency of 5 Hz;
  • quickly (within the next 6 seconds) turn on the ignition using the black key;
  • further: we hear 3 beeps and after 6 seconds - 2 beeps;
  • turn off the ignition and remove the key;
  • if you need to train several more working keys, then you need to repeat steps 4 to 6 (the maximum number for training is 4 keys);
  • over the next 6 seconds, turn on using the red training key;
  • then: 3 beeps, after 6 seconds - 2 beeps;
  • turn off the ignition, after 6 seconds we hear 1 signal;
  • the indicator starts blinking very quickly (with a frequency of 10 Hz);
  • turn on the ignition - we hear 3 beeps, the indicator goes out, the learning process is completed;
  • turn off the ignition;
  • Now you need to check the immobilizer: to do this, you need to turn on the ignition with a working or training key, if the indication does not light up, then everything went well, we try to start the engine.

Where is it located and how to activate it

Lada Granta cars are delivered to showrooms with the immobilizer function deactivated. Salon specialists perform activation at the time of sale, in the presence of the client. Sometimes salon employees forget to do this, or the buyer himself refuses to connect the protection. The vehicle owner needs to know where the immobilizer is located and how to make it active.

The brain of the anti-theft system is located directly in the ignition unit, which allows you to read the owner’s special code from the key. To activate the immobilizer, you need to perform the following sequence of actions:

  • close the hood, trunk and all doors in the car;
  • insert the training key (with a red mark) into the ignition and turn it until the ignition is activated;
  • wait 6 seconds until the light on the instrument panel starts flashing;
  • within 6 seconds, remove the training key and insert the working key, start the engine with it.

If everything is done correctly and on time, then this will be followed by 3 signals, and then 2 more. If there is no sound, the operation should be repeated again.

How to eliminate the causes of problems starting the car engine

Buying a new starter is not always justified. The old unit can serve for a long time. It is enough to carry out qualified diagnostics and replace faulty internal parts: bushings, brushes.

If it is not possible to deliver a faulty car to a service station, then it is necessary to remove the faulty part and take it to a mechanic. Only qualified diagnostics using special equipment can identify the exact fault. Repairing internal parts is much cheaper than buying a new part.

New Lada: Dashboard of Lada Granta

Usually repairs do not take much time. It all depends on the workload of the repairman and the availability of the necessary spare parts. It is better to contact a service that specializes in repairing electrical equipment for cars. If circumstances are favorable, you will be able to get behind the wheel of your car the very next day.

Types of starters used on Grants

All cars produced in the first years of production of the model were equipped with a starter 21120-3708010-00, which was secured with three nuts. But gradually the manufacturer switched to producing cars with a cable transmission, after which the starter began to be secured with screws. The owner can find out about the type of starter installed on his car by looking at the box, for example:

  • boxes 2190 correspond to parts 21120-3708010-00;
  • on vehicles equipped with 2181 gearboxes, starters 21901-3708010-00 are installed;
  • Jatco automatics correspond to starters 21902-3708010-00.

Computer malfunction

The unit itself is very reliable and rarely fails without external intervention. But water can get on it, and this is the main reason for malfunction.

There are significant flaws in the body design; the drainage holes near the filter are often clogged with dirt and water gets into the block through them.

To do this, you need to check and clean the drainage more often. Also, water can flood the ECU after installing the alarm, when the plugs are not installed tightly or they are completely forgotten to be installed.

You can try to dry the block, but if this does not help, you will have to replace it. This problem can be partially solved by wrapping the block with film or filling it with sealant, but then this is fraught with the appearance of condensation inside the ECU.

It is not difficult to remove the ECU; it is located opposite the front passenger seat, under the glove compartment, behind the soundproofing upholstery, almost on the floor, near the passenger’s feet.

ECU removal sequence:

  1. Disconnect the on-board network.
  2. Remove the screw that secures the upholstery.
  3. Carefully peel back the upholstery and sound insulation layer.
  4. Unscrew the three nuts securing the ECU.
  5. Carefully move the unit to the side and remove the two wire clamps one by one.

After unscrewing the computer, you need to disassemble it and assess the extent of the damage. We remove the board from the case and carefully inspect it. If it is partially burnt out and blackened, then nothing can be done about it; it needs to be replaced.

But if the board has no visible damage or only the output key has burned out, then in this case the key must be replaced, and the board must be washed and dried. First, you need to wipe it with a clean rag, then rinse it with WD-40 and blow it out with a compressor.

After this, rinse with alcohol several times and blow again. Now the most crucial moment is drying. Using a hair dryer set for a maximum of 1.5 hours, we blow through the board on both sides.

Malfunctions in the air mixture supply system

Here the problem lies either in a clogged air filter or in the failure of the regulator responsible for idling the car. In this case, your car will stall all the time when you gain speed or when you release the gas when you release the accelerator.

To solve the problem, remove and inspect the air filter. If there is serious contamination or chips, replace it. To diagnose and replace the idle speed regulator, you will need the help of qualified car service employees.

Battery Grants

Determining whether the battery has enough charge is quite simple. Do this:

  • turn on the tester;
  • unscrew the negative terminal from the battery;
  • measure the voltage by applying one probe to it, and the second to “plus”.

Ideally you will get at least 9 volts. If the indicator turns out to be lower, then there are two options:

  • the battery is being charged;
  • The car starts by “lighting up”, and the battery restores its power while on the road, receiving energy from the generator.

When working on a Lada battery, be sure to inspect its terminals and the wires connected to them. It is better to completely remove the latter, clean them and check the integrity of the insulation.

Engine and spark plugs

Often candles simply flood, especially in winter. This could be due to a weak battery spark, wiring problems, or unsuitable spark plugs.

The most primitive way to dry them is to press on the gas and crank the engine for 10 seconds using the starter.

But in winter this rarely helps, and the candles need to be dried. To do this, they need to be removed and thoroughly cleaned of dirt. This can be done with a toothbrush. In this case, you need to leave the same gap of 0.7-1 mm .

After cleaning, the candles need to be dried. This can be done using a hair dryer. Thrifty and experienced drivers recommend carrying spare spark plugs with you and, if necessary, simply replacing them on the road. To reduce the risk of flooding, monitor the battery charge and once every three days, load the engine up to 5000 rpm for a few seconds. for cleaning and preventing contamination .

Unlock process

When the immobilizer is active, the ignition must be turned on. At the same time, the immobilizer lamp on the instrument panel will begin to blink, indicating that the immobilizer has blocked the engine from starting. What to do next? Press and hold the gas pedal, after which the lamp will stop flashing.

Now we need to enter the code using the on-board computer button. To do this, the button must be pressed in an amount equal to the first digit of the code. Let's release the gas pedal, the light will start flashing again. The action described above must be carried out for all numbers.

Other reasons why the Lada Granta does not start

There are many possible breakdowns. To begin with, it’s a good idea to check the battery charge level, since you won’t be able to start without a battery. Also, make sure that the terminals on the battery are tight and have not oxidized. If the car is already three years old, then special attention should be paid to the issues of terminal oxidation.

Keep in mind that after prolonged cold weather, the charge level may drop to one third of its original volume. If necessary, the car can be covered with a special cover, which will save the accumulated heat for a long time.

Malfunctions may also affect the fuel system. Similar reasons are typical for situations when the car starts, but immediately after that it stalls. If so, then most likely the problem is a burnt out fuel pump.

And, of course, do not forget that the spark plugs may simply deteriorate. This happens after prolonged operation of the power unit at high speeds. To prevent them from burning out, you need to periodically clean their contacts, as well as maintain the normal operating parameters of the car.

Among other things, it would be a good idea to inspect the air filter. Before doing this, the air filter must be removed from the car. If it is too clogged, soot can accumulate in the cylinders, which will lead to certain problems in the operation of the machine.

The immobilizer does not detect the key. The car stopped starting

Today we have to discuss a very important problem for modern motorists. This is one of those unpleasant breakdowns when the electronics fail, forcing the owner of the car to find himself in a very uncomfortable position. We are talking about situations when the immobilizer anti-theft device stops seeing the key. And the main problem in this situation is the inability to start the car engine. It just so happens that a huge number of car owners are faced with this problem, however, only a few know what to do and what to do if a breakdown occurs.

First, let's talk about the immobilizer device. We will not describe the characteristics in detail in this article. In simple words, an immobilizer is an anti-theft device that allows the engine to start only with a special key. If someone manages to hack the alarm and pick up the key, then the attacker will definitely not be able to start the engine. The immobilizer detects the presence of a special chip with a digital key-password, which allows the anti-theft device to “understand” who got into the car. Serious problems can begin due to the fact that the immobilizer can simply “count” that they are trying to start the car with a different key.

The situation turns out to be very unpleasant, especially when a person is in his own car and cannot start it. It happens that the immobilizer does not recognize the presence of a key occasionally, and after making a couple of attempts to “insert the key, then take it out,” the engine finally starts, but the problem has made itself felt and must be eliminated immediately.

The question immediately arises: “What is the problem of the immobilizer not working correctly?” The whole problem is an error in the immobilizer reading data from the key. The ECU, that is, the electronic control unit, is programmed to work with the “native” key or with its duplicate. You can start the engine only if there is a 100% match of the code value that is registered in the central system of the unit.

Important to know: In the absence of a main source where the signal comes from and where the receiver itself is located, the electronic control unit of the device will not be of much importance. All 3 immobilizer elements are connected to each other, the system itself operates in a very quiet mode in a specific way. The owner of the car carries with him a special key with a transmitter chip built into it, a kind of electronic circuit. As soon as the receiver recognizes this key, the system will immediately start the engine and the car will be disarmed. A special PIN code that is written only once at the factory is unique. This code can only be recognized by the master key and the receiving device. Sometimes even the car owner himself does not know the location of the receiver, unless, of course, he purchased it separately and installed it himself.

Components from AvtoVAZ and possible foreign analogues

Initially, KZATE starters were supplied to AvtoVAZ, but since 2011, Valeo has become the main supplier of these parts. For this reason, the current list of components with analogues is as follows:

  • Starter 21120-3708010-00 (KATEK, KZATE, ZiT) - they are similar to Fenox ST32101C3 starters;
  • Starter 21901-3708010-00 (VALEO) – its analogue is VALEO TS12E901;
  • Starter 21902-3708010-00 (VALEO) – similar to VALEO TS12E902.

Do not forget that none of the three options above are interchangeable with the others: the second and third differ in the number of teeth, and elements from KZATE and VALEO are not compatible due to fastenings.

The immobilizer light flashed and the engine would not start.

This is how I encountered this problem.
On a cold autumn morning, my Renault refused to start.

After I inserted the key into the ignition, I noticed that the immobilizer light, instead of going out, was blinking frequently. Naturally, when you turn the key, the starter turns, but the car does not start. Repeated actions did not lead to the desired result.

I had to take a taxi.

A detailed examination of this issue and a search on the Internet led to very interesting conclusions.

It turns out that this malfunction indicates that the machine does not recognize the key.

Reasons for the frequent blinking of the immobilizer light

— malfunction of the key itself;

— malfunction of the immobilizer ring;

— violation of the wiring to the immobilizer;

— malfunction of the immobilizer unit itself.

Important! This malfunction has nothing to do with the key battery, so changing it in the event of such a malfunction is pointless.

What to do if the car does not recognize the key and the immobilizer light flashes frequently.

The first thing to do is take a spare key and if the car starts with it, then the key is faulty. If the car does not start even with a different key, then you have a problem with the immobilizer unit itself.

But there is one subtlety here.

It is very important to remember that after you have tried to start the car by cranking the starter, the engine is blocked for 15 minutes and the second key will not help you.

In any case, this is how the immobilizer works on Renault and Nissan.

But don’t be alarmed - most often this problem is temporary.

What to do if you see that the immobilizer light is flashing frequently.

The most important thing is not to turn the engine with the starter. Just turn the ignition on and off again several times - usually after several attempts the key begins to be detected and the engine starts.

Sometimes it helps - turning the key 180 degrees, perhaps in this case the immobilizer unit gets closer, and the key is identified.

If all these attempts did not lead to results, then go ahead to the officials.

In some cases, disassembling the steering column and cleaning the contacts of the immobilizer ring helps, but not everyone can do this option.

But I repeat once again that in most cases this malfunction allows you to drive with the correct actions. So I continue to travel.

I have become more attentive and if I see that the light is blinking frequently after the car has been parked overnight, then it is enough to turn the ignition on and off several times without cranking the starter or turn the key to the other side - the key will be identified, the light will go out, and the engine will start.

Source

Timing belt, valves and damper

The gas distribution mechanism often breaks. The belt breaks only when the car is moving. Unfortunately, no one is immune from rupture, and to prevent this from happening to you, you need to pay attention to its rubbing more often and change it in time.

Sometimes the valves come into contact with the pistons and they bend. To solve this problem, you can install pistons with special grooves. Sometimes the engine does not start due to the damper being turned several teeth, in which case the sensor makes a mistake and shows the wrong phase.

To check the damper, you need to unscrew it and check that its marks match the marks on the timing belt cover. If the marks do not match, you need to turn the pulley until they match.

Unlocking with the central locking control button

Owners often write on forums that the immobilizer on the Lada Kalina blocked the engine from starting. What to do and how to unlock it? Entering an emergency code usually helps. To do this you need:

  1. Turn off the ignition. The light should start flashing slowly.
  2. Turn on the ignition, after which some lamps will light up and disappear, and the immobilizer lamp will begin to flash rapidly.
  3. Press and hold the central locking control button. The warning lamp should stop lighting.
  4. When the central locking control button is pressed, the flashing of the lamp will decrease. We count the number of flashes of the lamp and release the button when it matches the first digit of the code.
  5. We carry out this operation again for all other digits of the code.

The engine does not start when hot

If the Lada Granta does not start well when hot, then the algorithm of actions is completely similar to the algorithm for troubleshooting when attempting a cold start.

The first reason is improper operation of the fuel supply system. The combustion chambers can be simply dry, and without fuel, as you know, not a single engine will start.

The second reason is a faulty DVT. It is also worth checking the battery terminals. Often they are not tightened as needed, but simply put on. As a result, there is no reliable contact, and the terminals oxidize. One of the original reasons is a clogged air filter.

Immobilizer flashing engine will not start

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Without waiting for the immo to beep twice, I tried to start it and the immo was blocked and would not let me start. What should I do?

Try to remove the “-” from the battery terminal and smoke for 30 seconds, then put everything back in place, disarm the imo and try, maybe it will start

Without waiting for the immo to beep twice, I tried to start it and the immo was blocked and would not let me start. What should I do?

Should there be an immo connector above the controller? Which side should I open the side panel?

5. The engine does not start. If, after disarming the anti-theft system when starting the engine, the system status indicator LED blinks at a frequency of 1 or 5 times per second, and the engine does not start, it means that the anti-theft system is faulty, or there is no connection between the immobilizer unit and the engine control controller. If, when starting the engine, the LED flashes 1-2 times and goes out, but the engine still does not start, then the malfunction is not related to the anti-theft system.

There is also an ALTERNATIVE ENGINE STARTING PROCEDURE. This procedure allows you to start the engine for one trip without reading the code from the working (black) key in case of its loss or malfunction of the anti-theft system. The procedure becomes possible only when the car owner himself allows it, by programming a “bypass password” consisting of six digits. Depending on which controller is installed on your car, learning the ?bypass password? and the method of bypassing immobilization is performed in two different ways.

What to do if cars with automatic transmission stall?

If your vehicle has an automatic transmission, then the problem should be found in the electrical supply. If you abruptly switch from one gear to another, or while switching gears while braking, the settings may be distorted, and the on-board computer will receive a signal to turn off the engine.

Also, models with automatic transmission may stall due to malfunctions of the hydrodynamic transformers of the gearbox. This problem mainly manifests itself during acceleration and requires urgent intervention from car service specialists.

Auto chemical goods

On elements from VALEO, the nut located on the terminal is coated with zinc, and the contact screw is also galvanized. Therefore, they can only be treated with WD-40 or one of its substitutes. But this processing option is not suitable for copper. All car owners using WD liquid on copper are strongly advised not to repeat their mistake - using WD-40 will lead to destruction of the outer layer.

That is why the threads on KZATE starters made of copper must be cleaned using special means. To do this, you can use: Molykote S-1002 solvent, WL remover, Kontakt 60 or 100 acid and CRAMOLIN ContaClean. When reusing an element after exposure to acid, it must be cleaned with a remover.

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