Hydraulic chain tensioner for VAZ 21214 device and principle of operation

Content:

general information

It has long been known that the quality of car parts produced at the AvtoVAZ plant is not of a high level. And timing parts are no exception. The chain has to be constantly tightened, almost every thousand kilometers. A hydraulic chain tensioner will help get rid of this problem. It is this device that we will talk about in this article. Let's look in detail at the operation scheme and replacement of the device.

Scheme of work

The figure below shows a diagram of the operation of the spring-hydraulic chain tensioner of the VAZ 21214 car. 1 – camshaft star; 2 – timing chain; 3 – chain damper; 4 – auxiliary device drive star; 5 – crankshaft star; 6 – tensioner “shoe”; 7 – hydraulic chain tensioner; 8 – line fitting; 9 – oil line; 10 – adapter fitting; 11 – oil pressure sensor (emergency).

Replacing the drive chain hydraulic tensioner

Detailed instructions with photos for replacing the hydraulic chain tensioner: The hydraulic tensioner is located under the cooling pipes in the front of the cylinder head.

Using a “10” wrench, which has five edges, we unscrew the tube fitting that supplies oil to the hydraulic tensioner. We take out the tube. Using a 10mm socket, unscrew the two nuts that press the tensioner to the cylinder block. Then we remove the hydraulic tensioner. At the same time as replacing the tensioner, it is recommended to replace the sealing gasket.

Assembly is carried out in reverse order. If after all the manipulations you start the engine and still do not hear the rattle of the chain, then everything has been done correctly.

Prices for hydraulic tensioner VAZ 21214 range from 400 rubles. up to 900 rub. Depending on the region. But there is no shortage of this device on store shelves.

5 thoughts on “Hydraulic chain tensioner for VAZ 21214 device and principle of operation”

Oleg 09/10/2014

Thank you very much for the instructions with photographs, everything was explained point by point. The chain often had to be tightened, I hope that with the purchase of a hydraulic tensioner, this problem will disappear.

I finally found a normal article, where everything is described in detail on replacing the hydraulic chain tensioner for dummies like me. After that I changed it without any problems, but it was such a pain in the ass...

I had problems replacing the hydraulic tensioner. I couldn't figure it out right away. As it turned out later, the whole problem was that I did not replace the sealing gasket, so it gave me the heat

I always thought that I understood my car better than others, including the hydraulic chain tensioner. After reading the article and seeing the photos attached to it, I understood. That all this time I was doing the repairs wrong

I also dug almost the entire Internet, and only this article explained everything clearly. The 3D diagram itself was especially helpful. In one evening I replaced the hydraulic tensioner myself, saving money on car services

VAZ specialists answer

VAZ SPECIALISTS ANSWER

VAZ:

EVGENY BAIBORIN - engine development department

ALEXEY KLIMENKO – transmission development department

YURY PROKHOROV – after-sales service department

ALEXANDER GUSEV – transmission development department

On my Niva VAZ-21214, the plastic chain guide broke more than once, once every 10-12 thousand km. I changed the chain, sprockets, tensioner shoe and the hydraulic chain tensioner itself, the oil line - I can’t find the reason!

The dampers used in the factory configuration, produced by JSC "Plastik" from Chelyabinsk, have proven to be quite reliable. In your case, the reasons for the breakdown of the original, factory damper could be factors such as an error in the initial installation, a deviation in the location of the damper mounting on the cylinder head, or the dimensions of the damper itself from the requirements of the drawing. In these cases, the damper may become distorted, ultimately leading to its destruction.

A serious threat of breakage of the damper also arises when shock loads are applied to it due to insufficient tension of the operating chain - usually this is due to a malfunction of the hydraulic tensioner, but in some cases the cause of this is excessive wear of the sprockets and chain, its significant elongation and sagging.

Calcifiers bought in a store may be inferior in strength to the original ones due to the low quality of their material - plastic.

I want to remake the VAZ-21214 timing drive according to the 21213 model. What is the difference between sprockets, chains, etc.?

The 21213 engine has a 21213 camshaft, which is driven by the long-established traditional double-row bushing chain 2103 (116 links). Here is the original kit - tensioner, shoe, chain guide. The stars are, accordingly, double-row. The number of teeth for all engine options is the same: 19 on the crankshaft nose, 38 on the camshaft and oil pump drive. Valve lever supports are mechanical. These details are well known to many from VAZ classic cars.

How to replace the hydraulic chain tensioner on Niva 21214

With the onset of cold weather, when starting the car, a strange rumbling sound appeared, which disappeared after a few seconds. I’ve only been on the Niva for six months and I still can’t confidently identify all the sounds and knocks, so I blamed the rattling of the exhaust tract. It just so happened that I got to the Nivovod masters (I changed the clutch), and they immediately recognized this sound, which was fraught with major troubles. The technicians advised us to install an automatic chain tensioner (ANT) “Pilot” produced by NPP “Rhodes”. I must say that before the Niva I had a VAZ-21063 and on it I myself installed the above ANC, drove it for more than two years, the impressions were only positive.

After studying relevant topics on our forum, as well as the range of online stores for Niva, the necessary device was purchased for 305 rubles:

Pay attention to the elongated pusher - in one of the stores of the Za Rulem chain, the saleswoman tried to hand me an ANC with a short pusher, for the “classics”. In addition, a new valve cover gasket was purchased (recommended by the technician), which two days later was replaced with a cork gasket due to leaks.

So, having replenished the theoretical knowledge in the field of hydraulics and mechanics, we proceed to the practical consolidation of the acquired skills.

1. We provide unobstructed access to the valve cover:

To do this, unscrew and move aside the corrugation from the air filter and the hoses from the receiver. I didn’t remove the gas pedal drive, it doesn’t really interfere. An orange rubber glove is put on the mass air flow sensor (I always do this to avoid accidental damage to the element of this sensor). We carefully wipe the valve cover from dust and dirt - it is very painful to see sand and dust on the exposed body of the block head later.

2. Unscrew and carefully remove the valve cover, using a headlamp or other bright light source to visually examine the condition of the damper and tensioner shoe. Having made sure of their integrity, just in case, we tie the chain to the camshaft sprocket with a wire (so that it doesn’t accidentally jump off).

3. Here is our lifeless friend:

I didn’t remove the cooling system pipes to make it easier to access; the usual condition of the pipe is in the letter Z, especially when you’re too lazy to unscrew various additional mechanisms and parts :)))

4. We dismantle the old tensioner, clean the mating plane from dirt and oil, install the new ANC according to the manufacturer’s instructions (measure the distance from the flange to the thrust pad of the shoe, lubricate the gasket on the side of the ANC flange with sealant, put the ANC on the studs).

5. Tighten the ANC on stiletto heels, pull out the pin:

The tensioner will click (normally, the rod comes out and snaps into place), we tighten the adjusting bolt with a wrench at the set torque - the instructions say about a force of 26 Nm, this is just “all the way”. I always use a torque wrench, since by nature I don’t measure the force with the diameter of the bolts and nuts, broken threads are my constant headache :(((

6. We proceed to dismantling the tee on the left side of the cylinder block. I used a 21 spark plug wrench. First, unscrew the oil supply tube to the tensioner (it is no longer needed) and remove it from the engine compartment. We spray WD-40 on the tee and, after removing the terminal, unscrew the oil pressure sensor. We do not lose the copper sealing rings. Since I did not drain the engine oil, it flowed out in a thin stream. He quickly screwed the sensor back in, pushed the key further along the sensor, and unscrewed the tee assembly with the sensor. The oil flowed more cheerfully, so having assumed the Z position, I plugged the hole in the block with my finger, with my other hand I managed to unscrew the oil pressure sensor from the tee, put one copper washer on its thread and screwed the sensor into the block without the tee:

Removing the hydraulic tensioner of the camshaft drive chain and its pipeline VAZ-21214

The hydraulic tensioner is installed in the front part of the cylinder head (on the right side) under the coolant jacket outlet pipe.

The tensioner is spring-hydraulic: the preliminary tension of the chain (with the engine off) is provided by a spring, the working tension (after starting the engine) is by the pressure of oil under pressure, which is supplied through a steel tube from the adapter under the emergency oil pressure sensor.

1. Using a special split wrench “10” (encompassing five edges), unscrew the fitting of the oil supply tube to the hydraulic tensioner (for clarity, the hoses of the outlet pipe of the cooling jacket are disconnected).

2. Remove the tube from the tensioner.

3. Using a 10mm socket, unscrew the two nuts securing the tensioner to the cylinder head

4. Remove the tensioner.

5. Remove the sealing gasket

6. To remove the oil supply pipeline to the hydraulic tensioner, use a split wrench “10” to unscrew the tube fitting

8. Using a 21mm spanner, unscrew the cylinder block fitting

9. ...and remove the fitting and pipe with sealing copper washers.

We install the hydraulic camshaft drive chain tensioner and its tube in the reverse order.

We replace the hydraulic tensioner gasket with a new one.

Replacing the timing chain Niva 21214 injector

Here we will talk about independently replacing the timing chain drive on a Niva 21214. The timing belt affects the operation of the entire car, so the importance of this unit should not be underestimated. Replacing a chain drive is a rather complicated process, which, however, can be done by any car enthusiast, provided that he follows the instructions and shows a little diligence.

A chain has significant advantages over a belt drive. These include, first of all, its reliability. While a belt can break, this rarely happens with a chain. Usually it just stretches. It lasts much longer than the belt, which means it needs to be changed less often. But still, the chain does not last forever, and after a while it also has to be replaced with a new one. When replacing the chain yourself, it is very important to set the marks correctly and follow safety precautions.

When to change the timing chain?

The manufacturer does not give clear recommendations regarding the timing of replacing the timing chain on the Niva. Experts assure that the need for replacement may arise no earlier than after 100,000 km. But it is very important to periodically carry out diagnostic procedures for chain transmission. It may well happen that the chain weakens. This will be noticeable by the characteristic sound that the running engine will make. First you need to try to tighten the chain. If this cannot be done in the usual way, replacement becomes necessary. In this case, you can contact a service center, where this repair will be carried out by professionals, or you can try to change the chain yourself. The latter option is preferable in terms of savings and gaining the necessary experience.

If the mark on the camshaft gear does not match the mark on the bearing housing, it's time to take action. The chain drive also needs to be replaced if chips or cracks appear on it. All this suggests that your chain has served its intended life and it is time to replace it.

So, you have decided that you will make the replacement yourself. What do you need to do next? First of all, go to the store and buy a new chain there. You can check the quality of the chain you are purchasing. We take the chain and place it flat on our palms. If its sagging exceeds 1 cm, you better look for consumables elsewhere. In addition to the chain itself, you will also have to buy a set of oil seals, a tensioner, dampers, and a set of gaskets. Then we prepare the tools that will be useful in the work and begin the repair.

Replacing the chain drive

Place the car on a level surface. Open the hood. Disconnect the battery. Remove the air filter.
The choke cable should be disconnected and moved away. It is also necessary to disconnect all electrical drives and pipes.
Remove the fan, generator belt and pump roller. The belt should be thoroughly examined. If deep cracks or other damage is found on it, it must be replaced with a new one. Remove the tray protection and thoroughly clean its cover.
Remove the valve plug. Unscrew the camshaft sprocket screw.
Take a wrench and unscrew the ratchet nut.
Now we begin to rotate the crankshaft until the marks on it and on the engine casing completely coincide. Make sure that the marks also match on the bearing housing and camshaft sprockets.

Replacing the hydraulic chain tensioner for a Chevrolet Niva

The part designed to regulate the chain tension in a Niva Chevrolet car is called a timing belt (gas distribution mechanism) hydraulic tensioner. In the Chevrolet Niva timing system, the hydraulic tensioner performs a very important function, so engine operation without such a part is simply impossible. Over time, all parts of a car tend to wear out.

Rotating parts of cars are especially prone to wear, weakening, stretching and breaking. This part includes the timing chain, which stretches over time and wears out. Chain stretching is normal but must be addressed. It is to eliminate chain stretch that a hydraulic tensioner is installed in the timing system.

It has a wear property that is detected by loosening the chain to half the sprocket tooth.

You can detect a weakened tensioner on a Chevrolet Niva by checking the chain pulls away from the sprocket. But such a check requires removing the protective casing from the car, which is extremely irrational in cases of uncertainty about the proper operation of the tensioner. Therefore, it is recommended to carry out a mandatory check of the chain for its tension after 60-100 thousand km.

km run. But, if the driver notices a rustling sound in the hood area, which resembles the sound of a diesel engine, then it is important to pay attention to this before the trip. This evidence of a rustling sound indicates that the chain has become loose and is hitting the teeth of the sprockets.

Therefore, having discovered such a characteristic sound, it is worth urgently checking the tension.

Where is the device located in the Chevrolet Niva and what does it look like?

The device is located on the passenger side under the hood of the car. Having opened the hood, you need to find the cooling pipes in the area of the front of the cylinder head, under them the hydraulic tensioner itself is located. A photo of the device that is installed on the Chevrolet Niva is located below.

Location of the part in the car

Components and principle of operation of the hydraulic tensioner

As you can see in the photo, the device has a cylindrical shape; it is screwed on the outside with a lid with a small hole through which oil flows. Inside the device there is a small ball and a spring, which ensures free flow of oil in one direction and does not release it in the opposite direction. Inside the device body there is a cylinder with rings.

On the inside of the housing walls there are spiral notches that have an inclined shape. When the chain is loosened, the piston, under pressure in the housing, moves to a certain notch on the housing wall. When the tension occurs, the body notches do not allow the piston to take its original position. It is carried out by engaging the piston rings with one-sided notches.

This is how the tension device works.

If chain stretching is detected and the decision is made to replace only the hydraulic tensioner, then this is an incorrect assumption. It is necessary to replace all parts: chain, hydraulic tensioner, seals, gaskets. Replacement is done in the following sequence, using all the necessary tools:

Use a spanner wrench to unscrew the tube fitting, which has a “10” head. The tube is designed to supply oil to the hydraulic tensioner.
Having loosened the fitting, the tube is removed and moved upward so that it does not interfere with further work.
The two nuts securing the device itself are also unscrewed using a “10” wrench.
The device is ready to be removed from its mounting location. We grab the protruding part with our hands and pull out the device. There is a gasket on it, which also needs to be removed to replace it with a new one.
A used device cannot be repaired and requires the installation of a new one. Before installation, it is necessary to coat the gasket with a layer of sealant to prevent oil leakage.

Replacing an old device does not require serious mental and especially physical effort. Installation of a new one is carried out in the following steps:

The device is inserted into the new seat, having first checked that the structure is identical to the old tensioner.
Screwed in with two fastening nuts.
The tube is inserted and secured.

It is simply impossible to make a wrong replacement. After installation, the operation of the motor and the tension of the new chain are checked. An important point is to replace the timing chain in order to 100% protect the car and your health from unexpected breakdowns on the road. Another article will tell you how to replace the chain.

Now the owners of the Chevrolet Niva can, without doubt and without errors, correct the existing problem with weakening the chain tension. Remember that if your car has traveled more than 100 thousand km, and there are no characteristic sounds from under the hood, then do not neglect the situation, but disassemble and check the looseness of the chain and the functionality of the tensioner. Happy renovation work!

We recommend reading: Timing marks on the Chevrolet Niva

Source: https://chnivaremont.ru/dvigatel/zaena-gidronatyazhitelya-cepi-chevrole-niva.html

How to tension a chain on a VAZ 2121, replacing the chain tensioner, when it needs to be replaced

Replacing the chain tensioner VAZ 21213, VAZ 21214, VAZ 2131

Chain tensioner - as is already clear from its name, it is needed only to tension the chain so that it does not loosen while the engine is running, and so over time this part breaks for various reasons, this happens, sometimes the tensioner simply cannot withstand very heavy loads breaks, for example, if you keep the engine speed in the red zone for a long time, the tensioner cannot withstand and breaks, but it can also break because it is not very durable, for example, there are a lot of very bad tensioners on the market at the moment qualities that really fail very quickly and after that they will need to be replaced with a new one, and you will learn how to do this from this article.

Where is the chain tensioner located?

It is located on the side of the engine, you can easily find it by the way if you approach the car from the right side of the engine compartment (The countdown starts from the back of the car to the front), there is also a battery installed nearby and there is a standard injection receiver in the form of curved pipes ( It is white), so when you stand on this very right side, look for the place indicated in the photo, this is the same tensioner.

When to change the chain tensioner

It changes only if it has become unusable, but how can you understand this, you ask? In general, when the tensioner becomes unusable, the car’s engine begins to run significantly louder, because the chain is weakened and thus there is such a roar as if you started the car with a diesel injection system, and not with a gasoline one, so if you hear something rattling in the engine, vibration may also appear, and by the way, this knocking should become less as the speed increases, that is, if the engine is noisy at idle and the chain rattles, then just give a little gas and if this knock goes away (the higher the speed, the weaker it should be knocking) then it is most likely really the tensioner, although many other parts could be to blame for this, but first you need to check it, since it is removed very quickly and is also checked accordingly.

An interesting article about biofuels produced from ordinary sawdust, read more here.

How to replace the chain tensioner on a VAZ 21213-VAZ 2131

Cars of the Niva family are very old models, in my opinion the very first cars went back to 1977 if memory serves, but these are new times and the car is still being produced and refined, so here are the chain tensioners that AvtoVAZ installed on its cars in Depending on the year of production, they may differ from each other, so for example, somewhere before 2000 or even higher, these cars of the Niva family came with the most common spring chain tensioners, these tensioners are very easy to remove, but one of their drawbacks (Or maybe an advantage) is the fact that they do not tension themselves, that is, from time to time you have to tighten them yourself, which is very inconvenient, but this is for someone, because it only takes 1-2 minutes to tighten the chain tensioner!

Mechanical chain tensioner. Main manufacturers.

The operating principle is a toothed rack. Good quality tensioner. The big brother of "autopilot". Stable quality. It is also possible to work without removing it from the cylinder head. The main disadvantage is the huge percentage of fakes on the market. This tensioner was the first successful design, and the Chinese grabbed it. If Autopilot is completely impossible to find, then Pilot is very difficult to find “original”. Based on the St. Petersburg market, I estimate the prevalence of counterfeits for this tensioner at 70%. I work with Rusmash directly, so this as a “minus” is insignificant.

The operating principle is a clock spring. To avoid questions and insinuations, I contacted the designer directly and in 2021, we installed several dozen of them. The main disadvantage of the product, which the designer passes off as its advantage, is that there are no precision parts. When the rod doesn't move out too much, everything is fine. When the chain is worn out and the rod goes beyond half, it “walks” quite a lot. If we are talking about a production engine without “pretensions” for tuning, this may be acceptable. If the engine is “more serious” this is unacceptable. The tolerance for axial “walking” of the chain and sprockets in the timing tract is only 0.3 mm.

chain tensioner Pilot for 21213

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