How many liters of oil are in a Chevrolet Niva engine

Why is it burning oil? @Niva 4×4

At first glance, it looks like ordinary white smoke that happens in the morning.

5 main reasons why engines burn oil.

The main reasons for increased oil consumption are as follows: Broken piston rings 7. I’m thinking, is it worth getting into the engine, or driving it some more? For some reason it eats synthetic oil... I just filled it in, but it doesn’t eat semi-synthetic oil.. LEONID TOKAEV on System fuses...

Worn or damaged valve oil seals 5. So I’m thinking, is it worth getting into the engine, or driving it some more?

One evening, or rather at night, I went to a kiosk for cigarettes, leaving my wife in the car so that she wouldn’t freeze, the car was running. In general, the next day the car is taken to a tow truck and to the service station. If the value of specific oil consumption is within acceptable limits, make a note in the service book indicating the protocol number and in the log of rejected complaints, give a second copy of the protocol to the owner.

I turned off the car, took out the dipstick - there were traces of emulsion, there were traces of oil in the expansion tank. In general, the next day the car is taken to a tow truck and to the service station.

We disassembled it, changed all the gaskets, ground the head, valve seals, rocker and camshaft. The engine was washed with oil twice.

It drives well, runs smoothly, although in cold minutes the speed doesn’t fluctuate much, I can’t find a normal IAC, then it returns to normal.

And not a liter per km. There are no leaks anywhere, the oil filter is apparently bad - the oil sensor blinks when it warms up.

I changed the sensor - no result. I was warned that the oil would eat up at first, but I've already driven 4 thousand.

Moreover, more than one master offers to drive thousands more, just change the oil and see if the oil consumption will decrease. The car does not smoke, compression is normal, I did not measure the oil pressure.

When it's cold, it emits bluish smoke, and you can see that it's bluish if you look closely. Car load: 2 people without cargo and additional roof rack. The test run should be carried out in controversial cases in the absence of obvious signs of increased oil consumption: The main reasons for increased oil consumption are the following: External oil leakage through oil seals, gaskets, seals.

The crankcase ventilation system is clogged 3. Coking of the slots in the oil scraper rings or grooves in the piston grooves due to the use of non-recommended oil 4. Worn or damaged valve oil seals 5.

diabloarea.ru NIVA SHEVA ENGINE

Increased wear of valve stems or guide bushings 6. Breakage of piston rings 7.

Abrasive wear of cylinders, piston rings, pistons, guide bushings in this case, the defect is eliminated at the expense of the owner. Wear of piston rings without wear of the cylinders, excessive thermal clearance of the rings, alignment of the ring locks in line, non-adhesion of the rings to the “mirror” of the cylinders, large clearance along the height of the rings in the piston grooves.

terms of Use

The reasons for increased oil consumption include not only design features and malfunctions of engine systems and individual components, but also harmful operating conditions. The most common and unfavorable is prolonged operation of the engine at minimum idle speed. Due to the low pressure during combustion of the air-fuel mixture, the piston rings work ineffectively - the degree of cylinder tightness decreases. Because of this, a thick oil film remains on its walls, which then burns. Severe operating conditions also include frequent driving with a cold engine under high load and prolonged hustle and bustle in traffic jams.

LIMITS OF ALLOWED

In addition to the usual definition of oil consumption - in liters per 1000 km - a more accurate one is used: as a percentage of fuel consumption. More accurate - because the engine operating time in idle mode is taken into account. For modern engines, oil consumption is allowed no higher than 0.5% of the volume of fuel consumed
. How can we convert this value into more familiar and visual liters? Let's assume that a car consumes an average of 8 liters of fuel per 100 km. Accordingly, per thousand - approximately 80 liters, and 0.5% of this volume - 0.4 liters. This figure is 2.5 times more modest than that cited by servicemen in response to complaints from car owners.

6 reasons for oil burn (and how to deal with it)

Communities › Chevrolet Niva › Blog › High oil consumption

I noticed something bad - for some time now the oil has been consuming like a horse. Consumption is about a liter per 1500-2000 km, maybe even more. The mileage is currently 89,000 km, the oil I use is Mobil Super 3000 5W40. At 72,000 km the piston was replaced with Kostroma. I don't see any oil leaks on the engine. The exhaust is of normal color and does not smoke. The operation of the engine is quite smooth, sometimes the muffler pats a little when running at idle, but this seems to have happened for a long time. From errors, after a long period of driving along the highway, sometimes 0422 comes out - the efficiency of the neutralizer is below the threshold. Maybe the oil is too thin and it’s time to switch to semi-blue 10W40? I understand that I need to open it up and look, but still, what could most likely be the symptoms? Thank you!

Chevrolet Niva 2003 › Logbook › Defeated the oil glutton

I didn’t take any photos, so it’s a dry text) I already wrote earlier that the oil consumption is not at all pleasing; over the past 10,000 km I have used 3 cans of 4 liters each. There was a lot of smoke in the breather and a lot of smoke in the exhaust, it was impossible to stand next to a running car, the smell was terrible. I even poured in the additive for testing, but it didn’t help) The level remained the same for the first month, and then again within a week the oil went from maximum to minimum. I decided to try changing the valve seals first, since all the symptoms pointed to them. Especially when it was cold it smoked a lot. And this is the first sign of oil seals, while smoking when hot is a sign of wear on the oil seals. So, having bought a set of Corteco caps for 170 rubles (I read here that they are some of the best) and a new valve cover gasket for 140 rubles (Shnivo gray), I went to the service center. And it turns out it’s not for nothing that I decided to start with MSC) The master called a few hours later, it turned out that 2 caps were not put on at all (they were poorly pressed, it seems they were previously) and 2 valves were directly driving oil into the cylinders. The chain was also shifted by 1 tooth. Based on the results of the replacement, it smoked for a couple more days and now it smokes much less and it’s even possible to breathe next to the car) Over 1000 km the level dropped a little, but just a couple of mm on the dipstick. Which is already good news, after all, 200,000+ km of mileage, the engine is supposed to eat oil, especially black oil that hasn’t been changed yet) Look, now at least I won’t go broke on oil and the 1st canister will last from replacement to replacement (I’m thinking of switching to replacement every 5000 km) Price question 1500 rubles for work and 1 day on foot.

Well, the best part is, the car drove off. The camshaft was set incorrectly by only 1 tooth and could climb some hills only in 3rd gear, and then with a loss of speed (on 29 wheels). Now on the same hills in 4th I even manage to gain a little speed (and this is on 30 wheels)

Well, a video about another stuck person)

Source

Where does the oil go in the internal combustion engine?

Where does the oil go in the internal combustion engine?

Post by DEKER » Feb 18, 2012, 11:04 pm

Re: Where does the oil in the internal combustion engine go?

Post by artem770 » Feb 18, 2012, 11:19 pm

Check the antifreeze and check all the leaks from the engine. Miracles don’t happen, the oil burns out or leaks out

[Posted from Niva-Club Mobile]

Re: Where does the oil in the internal combustion engine go?

Posted by doc Brown » Feb 18, 2012 11:47 pm

Re: Where does the oil go in an internal combustion engine?

Post by DEKER » 19 Feb 2012, 13:39

Re: Where does the oil go in an internal combustion engine?

Posted by doc Brown » 19 Feb 2012, 20:02

Re: Where does the oil go in an internal combustion engine?

Re: Where does the oil go in an internal combustion engine?

Post by serzh » Mar 28, 2012, 4:52 pm

Re: Where does the oil go in an internal combustion engine?

There is an oil leak from the engine, the entire camshaft drive cover is covered in oil, starting from the cylinder head cover.

There is also an oil leak in the area of ​​the oil separator cover. Where to tighten? What kind of gaskets are there, rubber ones?

I changed the oil at 5000 km, now 8500 km, I had to add 0.5 liters.

Re: Where does the oil go in an internal combustion engine?

Post by Vovchik » 02 Apr 2012, 15:11

Re: Where does the oil go in an internal combustion engine?

Re: Where does the oil go in an internal combustion engine?

Post by Anton » April 02, 2012, 16:20

Re: Where does the oil go in an internal combustion engine?

Post by Vovchik » 02 Apr 2012, 17:48

Beware of the car In carb engines (1.6) on the front of the engine, oil appears from under: - the valve cover gasket (disposable gasket); — gaskets for the front cover of the engine block (usually after sloppy repairs); — front crankshaft oil seal (wear of the oil seal and/or pulley); — a loose chain guide bolt.

Considering that we are talking about an almost new car, the first point seems to me the most likely. There may be some other nuances in new engines

Trouble, trouble. The Niva began to flow.

Post by Stranger » April 17, 2012, 10:41 pm

It leaked from somewhere. It’s not clear where.

Help identify and advise how to eliminate

Even I spoke in poetry.

In the last photo - this is after 10 minutes of parking

Design Features

Initially, the 21214 engine was developed for distributed injection, that is, for an injector. It was planned to ensure an environmentally friendly standard, which was carried out successfully - during the finalization process, the internal combustion engines had Euro-2 - Euro-4, and for the export versions of Niva and Nadezhda, even Euro-5.

The main feature of 21214 was the factory boost:

• injector instead of carburetor;
• modified cylinder head (hydraulic pushers);

In turn, this required improvement of other designs:

• the volume of engine oil has increased, the pump sprocket now has 30 teeth to increase its performance;
• the double-row chain is replaced by a roller-type single-row modification to drive attachments and the timing camshaft;
• The camshaft cams have changed shape.

Upgraded chain tension system:

• the spring creates pre-tension when the engine is off;
• After starting, pressure is created in the system, the tension is regulated by hydraulics.

The manufacturer has provided additional do-it-yourself tuning due to the +50 hp potential built into the design. With. Overhauling the simplest internal combustion engine design does not cause any problems, including in a garage on your own.

Bosch 0280158110 injectors were first installed on the fuel rail, then yellow Siemens VAZ 20734. The ignition has a modular design with Bosch MP 7.9.7 and January 7.2 controllers. Pair-parallel injection provides Euro-2, phased injection – Euro-3.

Owner reviews

Life tests

:

• Autoreview magazine during life tests of the Lada XRAY with a 1.8 liter engine in 2021 (it took 5 liters per 10,000 km);
• magazine "Behind the Wheel" (over 2500 km, the oil level of the Lada Vesta with a 1.8 liter engine dropped from the middle to below the minimum level).

It is noteworthy that during the life tests of Vesta, no increased oil consumption was noted on the 1.6-liter engine.

Survey

among owners of Lada Granta, Lada Kalina, Lada Priora. Engine 1.6 l:

Survey

among owners of Lada Vesta and Lada XRAY. Engine 1.6 and 1.8 l (link to survey):

Your reviews on oil consumption on LADA car engines

leave it in the comments.

Also follow the topic “Have oil burns been cured on the 1.8 engine”

Keywords: Lada Vesta engine | lada xray engine | lubrication system for Lada Vesta | Lada Xray lubrication system | AvtoVAZ order

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High oil consumption after overhaul in Niva 2123

VAZ (Lada) 2123 2000 - 2002

The engine has traveled 5000 km and has undergone major overhauls. The only thing we didn't do was go through the head, the valve seals were replaced, the valves were ground in well, the skirt was 1 mm, checked with kerosene. The valves do not swing. A little oil is thrown into the breather.

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Well what can I say. How big is it? How many per thousand? Well, this obviously cannot be called a major overhaul. Because that’s the concept of a major overhaul.

I imagine a major overhaul with troubleshooting all parts of the internal combustion engine, working with micrometers, replacing the ShPG, etc. Well, I don’t know how the repairs were carried out there. Well, there are many nuances why oil consumption will occur. So it’s like guessing from tea leaves here.

You write that the head was NOT touched, but according to the description of the issue, it turns out that it was the cylinder head that was serviced. Apparently no other work was done? If so, then it’s clear that the piston rings are worn out - the engine is eating oil. Of course, pressure is created in the crankcase from the gases that have penetrated, hence “oil is thrown into the breather.” Be sure to measure the compression in the cylinders and tell us - this will be clear information.

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Even more useful tips in a convenient format

Ways to save fuel

Ways to save fuel

If you don't know how to reduce fuel consumption, below we suggest you familiarize yourself with a number of useful tips.

1. To reduce the gasoline consumption of a Chevrolet 100 km, try to maintain a speed of 90-100 kilometers per hour on the highway, no more.
2. Operate the vehicle without sudden acceleration and instantaneous gear changes in the transmission.
3. Constantly checking tire pressure can help reduce fuel consumption on a Chevrolet Niva. The optimal value is from 2.1 to 2.2 atmospheres.
4. Install gas equipment. On the one hand, the equipment will not lead to fuel savings, but at the same time you will have to pay at least one and a half times less when refueling.
5. On a Chevrolet Niva, as in any other vehicle, it is important to monitor the technical condition of the power unit. If at least one wire breaks through to ground, the engine dynamics will be poor. Accordingly, consumption will increase both in the city and on the highway.
6. Monitor the condition of the brake system. In practice, we often encounter situations where the brake cylinder begins to jam, thereby creating additional resistance. Ultimately, more fuel will be needed to maintain speed. The first alarm bell is a situation in which the brake system is very noisy, which is not typical for its usual state.
7. Use air conditioning only when necessary. If the equipment includes a climate system, remember that its maintenance also consumes fuel. Accordingly, its proper use allows you to benefit.

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Why is there no oil pressure in the Chevrolet Niva engine. How to solve a problem

It may happen that while driving a Niva Chevrolet, the oil pressure in the engine is lost; in such a situation, you should immediately stop the car and turn off the engine. Since if a warning light comes on, warning you about this problem, you should never start the engine, let alone drive. This also applies to cases where the warning flashes with a certain frequency, and if you continue to drive, the consequences can be critical.

Determining the level

Before refueling, it is recommended to determine the oil level in the car:

1. Open the hood and find the inspection hole - there you will see a dipstick for measuring the oil level in the engine (it is located in the middle of the cylinder block on the breather cover of the crankcase ventilation system);

2. Remove the dipstick and wipe it with a cloth to remove any remaining oil;

3. Insert the dipstick back, and after 5-10 seconds, remove it again - normally the oil should be between o and “MAX”.

Separately about turbo engines

It's no secret that turbocharged engines consume more oil than conventionally aspirated ones (by the way, which is better - we talked here ). The thing is that old turbines are cooled precisely from the engine lubrication system, and if the turbine is broken, it can drive oil through its bearings, and the consumption can be quite large, about 1 - 3 liters per 10,000 kilometers, and in in case of malfunction much more.

Also, if the turbine malfunctions, increased crankcase gas pressure may occur. Thus, oil can enter the cylinders directly through fuel injection from the crankcase ventilation system. The turbine definitely needs to be replaced or repaired.

I wrote a lot, and as you can see, the reasons are not always clear-cut; each individual case must be taken into account.

Now let's watch a detailed video.

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Engine oil change interval

The frequency of changing the oil in the internal combustion engine of an SUV is the first question that the owner of a Niva must decide on. The difficulty of the solution lies in the fact that, on the one hand, extreme operating conditions and engine loads imply frequent changes of working fluids, on the other hand, the Niva is an SUV, which by default must be ready for difficult conditions. An unambiguous answer to the question that interests owners, how often an oil change is needed in a Niva Chevrolet engine, is given by the automaker’s regulations, according to which the interval between procedures should not exceed one year, even if the car is used in a gentle mode, or after every fifteen thousand kilometers the car has traveled.

• Filling a car with low-quality fuel with an excessive sulfur content or other deviations of the filling fluid from the established standards.
• Predominant operation of the machine in difficult conditions, which experts include increased loads on the engine during low-speed driving and increased air pollution, which is most often observed in large cities.
• Intensive use of transport all year round, which is accompanied by sudden changes in temperature conditions, increased air humidity in the autumn and spring, which contribute to a faster loss of the oil’s declared qualities.

An indicator of the need for an unscheduled oil change may be deteriorated machine performance or extraneous noise from the engine. You can also determine the need to change the engine oil by visually inspecting the lubricant in the system during a scheduled or extraordinary check of its level. Indicators for replacing the lubricant in this case may include impurities in the lubricant, a change in its color to a black tint, or a burning smell. Having made sure that the oil needs to be changed, the Niva owner, before starting work, needs to buy the lubricant itself. And to do this, it’s worth figuring out which motor oil is best suited for the unit and how much it will be needed for a complete replacement.

What is the fuel consumption of the Chevrolet Niva per 100 km: reviews and real gasoline consumption, how to reduce it

The VAZ-2123 engine, which is the basis of Chevrolet Niva cars, was designed back in the 90s. Since then, the ECM on this engine has been updated several times, and a gradual transition from Euro-2 standards to Euro-5 has been made. Oddly enough, with each update, fuel consumption on the Chevrolet Niva increased. You can hear reviews that the 2005 engine consumes 10 liters per hundred, while for later versions the numbers go beyond 14. Well, let's try to understand the details.

The transition to Euro-5 standards is further described in the video. Let's see.

High fuel consumption: reasons

If the transmission components did not consume energy themselves, an all-wheel drive vehicle would be more economical than a single-wheel drive vehicle. Necessary conditions are non-disconnectable all-wheel drive and the presence of locking differentials. It seems that the Chevrolet Niva has all this.

What will happen in reality? If the front driveshaft is removed from the structure, fuel consumption will be 14.2 liters, and for the “standard version” the figures will be slightly worse - 14.8 liters per 100 km. All these figures were measured under the same conditions.

When it comes to significant weight and low tire pressure, practice really does match theory. For example, the Ural-375 all-terrain vehicle in the 6x6 version turns out to be more economical than with a 6x4 drive.

We can conclude that the energy consumed by the Chevrolet Niva transmission exceeds the losses caused by rolling friction in the tires. This is bad. However, for most light SUVs everything looks exactly the same.

Fuel consumption of Niva Chevrolet per 100 km according to the passport

Fuel consumption of AI-95 with Euro-2 engine, l/100 km:

1. City – 10.8;
2. Highway, 5th gear (90 km/h) – 8.6;
3. Highway, 5th gear (120 km/h) – 11.6.

Now let’s study the figures typical for Euro-5 internal combustion engines and valid from 10/1/2015:

1. City – 14.1;
2. The route is 8.8.

Progress bears fruit. Engine power remains the same, but fuel consumption per 100 km for the Chevrolet Niva increases.

All figures are published by the manufacturer himself. By the way, the air conditioner was not taken into account here.

According to reviews from owners, the official data is very close to reality - the difference is no more than 5%. Some people managed to “burn” 20 liters, but such cases must be dealt with separately.

How to reduce gasoline consumption?

There is unlikely to be a noticeable effect:

1. From the use of “chemistry” (additives);
2. From installing all kinds of “magnets”, etc.;
3. Switching to “synthetics” (for example, 5W40) is a radical method, but not recommended;
4. From the transition to AI-92, “liter consumption” increases slightly, consumption in rubles decreases.

To improve efficiency, you need to properly configure the transmission. People usually talk about balancing cardans, but know that imbalance can only occur as a result of deformation. There is no need to pay money for an almost useless procedure. However, let the owner make the final choice.

Balancing and correct installation of the RC

Everything is clear with shaft balancing, but other elements are usually not thought about.

Make sure you meet the following requirements:

1. The transfer case (RK) is installed so that the axis of the gearbox shaft and the primary axis of the RK meet at a point coinciding with the center of the CV joint (see drawing). Also, the steering wheel must be centered: each secondary shaft must be parallel to the bottom and directed strictly along the body.
2. The crosspieces should turn easily, and, moreover, with the same force!
3. Avoid play in splines, crosspieces and secondary shaft bearings.

The tighter the crosspiece rotates, the more the steering wheel can deviate on its “pillows”. This results in noticeable energy losses.

Chevrolet Niva 2009

Year of manufacture: 2009

Body type: SUV

Body: LC

Engine: 1700 cc

Hello all readers of this review.

The Chevy Niva car was not chosen by chance; all-wheel drive is needed because... I live in a village and it’s more or less comfortable when driving because... The car is used every day. The choice fell on this car. Foreign cars were not considered due to the scarce or even complete absence of spare parts in our 3 auto stores, and of course the price.

The cross-country ability was pleasing even on standard tires, in the first year of use the car was “both in the forest and in the field”, on asphalt it behaves confidently but up to 120 km/h. faster is worse, you are already driving under a little stress, but I accelerated to 140 on good asphalt and I think that this is the limit for this car. The salon is comfortable, normal. seats, easy to read instrument panel, good visibility, but the glove compartment and its lid are of course “the height of engineering.”

The plastic is easy to clean from dust and creaks on the primer, there are no critical rattles or constant “crickets”. The box and transfer case do not cause any complaints if you do not forget that this is a Niva. At first I didn’t like the slight noise and vibration, but you get used to everything and after a couple of months you no longer notice anything.

The chassis and suspension for this car are 5 plus. Small holes, bumps, potholes on the asphalt - all this ceases to exist, more difficult obstacles are also passed confidently and without force. So the car is quite suitable for everyday driving. There is nothing to say about the engine, everyone knows that it is dead, but it is quite enough both on asphalt and off-road with proper driving, the actual fuel consumption is 9-15 liters depending on driving style and terrain.

Of course, there are minor bugs and troubles, but repairs and maintenance are not expensive. Spare parts are available and everything can be replaced or repaired yourself in the garage on your own. The body paint is satisfactory, it does not bubble or peel, which I have seen even on one-year-old cars, chips from stones, scratches only reach the ground, so a bottle of paint (a small one with a brush) is always in a visible place and is used as chips appear to prevent rust .(1-2 times a month except winter).

Winter operation does not bring any big problems, it starts up quite briskly down to -40, the stove heats very well, the interior heats up quickly and cools down even faster (vibration, noise, heat insulation in the car is 3 minus). I was also pleased with the “heated rear-view mirrors” option, the headlights do not “sweat”, the rear window is also heated, in general, even in severe winter there is enough comfort in the cabin.

Oils, filters, light bulbs, and other consumables, I do repairs that don’t require special tools myself, but if anything happens, we have 2! car service.

Well, the further you go, the more you want, and we began fine-tuning the car to a state “not like everyone else.” To begin with, we replaced the oversized bulbs with diodes because the sockets are melting, and I advise everyone who has bulbs to replace them with diodes. LED rings “Angel Eyes” were installed as DRLs. The thought of a suspension lift and APS roof rails did not come up. First, roof rails appeared, and then the car grew by 5 cm.

With the lift, it was necessary to make the suspension more rigid, because the car began to sway strongly, and gas-oil shock absorbers were installed in a circle from the MP. Purchased Kumho tires for serious off-road use. As for the engine - replacing the GNC with the ANC (Pilot installed it first, now Isai is installed.) In the future, replacing the hydraulics with bolts.

And also interesting: Is it worth buying Amtel NordMaster 185/70 R14 88T studded winter car tire - 59 reviews on Yandex.Market (formerly Beru)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1YUVm6OX2iw

So the Chevy Niva is not for everybody, for some it won’t suit you at all, but for others it’s just the same and won’t need anything else. The car is still in use today and I don’t plan to change it for something else.

Causes

If low oil pressure appears in the engine, the reasons for this may be the following:

• The lubricant needs to be changed. Perhaps it has lost its properties and become very liquid
• The filter is clogged
• There is a problem with the oil pump
• The pressure relief valve has failed
• The crankshaft plain bearings have small gaps and perhaps they have become larger than the permissible value
• Gaps appeared larger than required between the camshaft journals and its bed
• The wiring is faulty or there is a problem with the pressure sensor

If the lubricant was not changed on time, this could lead to a decrease in its viscosity, and therefore the gear pump that pumps the oil could not create the necessary pressure, which led to the appearance of a warning signal on the dashboard, and to prevent this, the oil must be changed every ten thousand kilometers. A complete or partial failure of one of the cylinders occurs, the fuel mixture accumulates in the cylinder, and along their walls it enters the oil, and the greater the wear of the piston group, the more intense it will be, the combustible mixture enters the oil. And if at the same time coolant gets into the system, then engine repair cannot be avoided.

Very rarely, the cause of an error may be a clogged filter, as there is an intensive process of wear of parts in the engine. For example, if the chain guide shoe flies off and begins to hit the cylinder head, noise will appear and the chain will begin to punch a groove in the housing, and all the chips will begin to settle in the filter.

If the car owner does not provide sufficient care for the car, this can lead to clogging of the oil receiver grid. The appearance of all other reasons listed above are considered more serious malfunctions and in order to eliminate them you need to disassemble the engine.

The process of changing the oil

Changing the oil in a Chevrolet Niva engine, regardless of the modification of the unit, is carried out according to identical regulations, which are not characterized by any particular difficulties in its implementation, which allows you to perform this procedure in a garage with your own hands.

The success of the procedure for changing the oil in a Chevrolet Niva engine is ensured by following step-by-step instructions from the manufacturer:

• Warm up the car to operating temperatures so that the oil in the engine acquires a more fluid consistency, due to which the waste will be drained with maximum efficiency.
• Provide yourself with access to the front of the vehicle's underbody by mounting it on a pit or overpass.
• Before you start draining the waste, unscrew the oil filler plug - this will ensure a direct flow of liquid when draining it.

• The next step is draining the waste. To do this, you will need to remove the engine crankcase protective element and the mudguard, thoroughly clean the pan and the area near the oil drain opening so that when performing the procedure, dirt particles do not enter the system.
• Carefully unscrew the drain cap, having first placed under the hole a container for working out a displacement of at least four liters when modifying a 1.7 engine, and a five-liter container if you are draining the liquid from a 1.8 unit. Be very careful - very hot liquid will flow out.
• It will take about fifteen minutes to drain the liquid. During this time, clean the plug from possible accumulations and metal shavings. Pay attention to the O-ring - if it is deformed, replace it with a new part.
• After the liquid has completely drained from the system, you can begin to replace the filter element. To dismantle it you will need a special key. Before installing it in its original place, pour a little more than half of its volume of oil into the new filter, and also treat the sealing elements with the emulsion being poured. The filter is installed in its original place without any special tools; this can be done by hand.
• Close the oil drain cap and begin the process of filling in new oil.

• At the stage of pouring motor oil into the Chevrolet Niva engine, certain difficulties may arise, which can be solved by slowness and consistency in work. The main question of how much oil to pour into the engine so that excess oil does not have to be drained from the system is solved by pouring liquid into the unit in portions. First, fill in about three liters of lubricant and check the level with a dipstick. Then add oil in small portions, regularly checking the level. The norm is considered to be the car oil criterion on the dipstick, located in the center between the MIN and MAX marks, however, when filling the system when changing the lubricant, it must be topped up to the maximum maximum value. During operation, the oil will be distributed among the units of the unit, which will lead to a decrease in the level.
• Tighten the plug and start the engine, let it idle for a while. If the procedure is performed correctly, the oil pressure indicator should go out a few seconds after the engine is turned on.
• The final stage of work is to check the fluid level in the engine again, if necessary, top it up to the standard criteria, inspect the joints for leaks, tighten the filter and oil filler plug, and install the removed elements in their places.

At this point, the oil change job can be considered completed. Write down your mileage so you don't miss the next time you need to service the unit.

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Changing the engine oil and oil filter, checking the level and topping up

How much oil should I fill in the engine? The capacity of the engine lubrication system including the oil filter is 3.75 liters . What kind of oil should I fill in? Engine oils with API quality level: SG, SH, SJ. SAE 15W-40, SAE 10W-30, SAE 10W-40, SAE 5W-30, SAE 5W-40

( Maximum permissible oil consumption: 0.5 l/1000 km or 0.4% of fuel consumption)

CHECKING THE LEVEL AND ADDING OIL

CHANGE OF OIL

4.Unscrew the drain plug, first placing a container for drained oil. Drain the used oil.

Video

Oil consumption standards after 2020

In February 2021, AvtoVAZ sent information letter No. 23-20 to the heads of the dealer network “On the appeal of consumers with the defect “increased oil consumption” of LADA car engines.” It states that when operating vehicles, consumers may complain of “blue smoke at the exit of the exhaust system, increased oil consumption.”

During the warranty period, to assess the need for engine diagnostics, by analogy with the applicable f. Renault has established and included in the new Operating Manuals for LADA vehicles a control value for oil consumption, which is no more than 0.5 liters per 1000 km of vehicle mileage. There is also an addition to the actual oil consumption, depending on the influencing factors, recommendations to consumers on reducing oil consumption when operating vehicles.

At the same time, it is indicated that IP No. 62-12, No. 48-17 (discussed above) should be considered invalid.

Here's what was added to the car's owner's manual:

Actual oil consumption. Oil consumption is provided for by the engine design and cannot be equal to zero, otherwise the engine will be destroyed. Oil is consumed primarily through piston rings and valve seals, the purpose of which is not absolute sealing, but rather metering oil penetration to provide lubrication. Also, a small amount of oil is consumed through the crankcase ventilation system. Operating oil consumption depends on many factors:

• compliance by the consumer with operating conditions during the vehicle break-in period and, accordingly, the quality of running-in of engine friction surfaces;
• viscosity-temperature properties of the oil used;
• quality of the oil used;
• frequency of oil changes;
• ambient temperature;
• the amount (level) of engine oil maintained by the owner;
• driving style of the car owner (engine operating modes);
• driving routes used by the owner.

Recommendations for reducing oil consumption:

• Strictly follow the recommendations for running in the car and engine (see the subsection “Operating a new car” in the “Driving a car” section) to ensure optimal running-in of the cylinder-piston parts, the surface quality of which significantly affects oil consumption.
• Use high-quality fuel that ensures the safety of parts of the cylinder-piston group.
• Use high-quality motor oils for reliable lubrication, cooling and removal of natural wear products from friction surfaces without the formation of unnecessary deposits of sludge, varnish and carbon deposits.
• Follow recommendations to match the viscosity-temperature properties of the oil to environmental conditions to maintain optimal lubrication conditions.
• Maintain the oil level between the MIN and MAX marks.
• Observe the oil change intervals.
• Carry out engine maintenance regularly.
• Drive the vehicle at moderate engine speeds, with smooth acceleration, within the permitted speed limits. Because oil consumption is higher, the higher the load and engine speed.
• If possible, minimize the frequency of using the engine braking mode (driving with the accelerator pedal released and with the gearbox in low gear, when the wheels rotate the engine through the transmission).
• Choose rational routes that minimize the number of stops, starts, and accelerations.

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Best synthetic motor oil

There are many manufacturers, but we have selected only a few of the most popular options for review:

• Shell Helix Ultra Professional is definitely the choice of professionals, but the price of Shell oil is a little steep, if this point is not important, then you can opt for this product.
• Gazpromneft Premium motor oil is the optimal combination of product price and quality. Many car owners choose this option.
• LUKOIL Lux is the most affordable and budget synthetic from a renowned manufacturer.
• Castrol Magnatec oil has recently become overpriced. For this reason, some car enthusiasts began to refuse products from a world-famous manufacturer.
• GENERAL MOTORS Dexos2 Longlife engine oil is a product offered by the manufacturer as original for Niva-Chevrolet. Recommended oils are not always the best, we all have known this for a long time, let’s not miss this point here either. Although some people will dispute this opinion.

To sum up some intermediate results here, we will give our vote in favor of Shell oil, the price of which does not quite fit into the category of budgetary maintenance of your car, but perhaps many will agree with the opinion that it is definitely worth saving on engine oil in your car no need.