How to remove the heater resistor on a Ford Focus 2

Ford Focus 2 heater resistor where it is located: we outline it point by point

Not being left without a heater in cold weather is something worth thinking about in the warmer months. It would be very wise to check the operation before the onset of the cold season in order to deal with the heat problems of the stove. And go out into the cold with a working heater. There are a number of defects that can be corrected with your own hands, without the help of specialists and special equipment. Such malfunctions include failure of the thermistor.

Ford Focus 2 heater rheostat replacement

Be patient and persevere. The most important thing is calm, my friends)

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Main malfunctions and ways to eliminate them

If you are the owner of a Ford Focus model, we recommend that you learn to feel your car and hear when and where problems arise.

Engine cooling, heating and ventilation are the main systems of the Ford Focus, ensuring the maintenance of a comfortable temperature inside the cabin at any time of the year. Failure of any of these systems makes it impossible to supply warm air to the cabin. It is for this reason that when such a problem is discovered, you should first check these systems to see if they are faulty.

You can eliminate the identified faults at any service station, but in this case you will have to fork out money by paying for the services of car mechanics.

We recommend that you do not rush to visit the service station and try your own strength. Restoring the functionality of some systems of your favorite vehicle with your own hands not only saves the family budget, but also contributes to the growth of pride in your skills. Of course, in order to correctly replace the Ford Focus 2 heater motor, it is important to have certain technical knowledge, to understand which specific parts need to be removed, thereby providing access to the problematic heater itself. It’s difficult for a beginner to figure this out on his own, so we bring to your attention an algorithm that lists all the main steps. By implementing them, every car owner will be able to replace or repair the heater and return the fan to excellent performance.

Replacing a fuse or relay

Quite often, the lack of supply of warm air into the cabin is caused by a car fan, which does not show any signs of “life.” In fact, in most cases the fan is in good condition, and its technical failure is caused only by a blown fuse.

For this reason, we recommend that you first penetrate the fuse box. It is not difficult to find; it is located in the engine compartment on the left side. There are several fuses there; you need to find the one that is responsible for ensuring the safe operation of the heating and ventilation systems. It is much easier to find it if you have a special fuse layout. Having discovered a burnt fuse, all you have to do is remove it and install a new element in its place.

Unfortunately, it is not always possible to limit ourselves to such simple manipulations. Sometimes you have to tinker further for a while in search of the cause. In particular, a faulty fan relay may be the cause of a technical failure. To confirm or refute this proposal, we recommend using a special device - a tester, which will instantly demonstrate the state of the relay.

Unfortunately, if you are not involved in car repair, you are a recent car owner, and therefore have not had time to acquire a sufficient set of tools and instruments, then you are unlikely to have a tester. Try asking someone you know to use it to test the relay. If this is also impossible, the only way out of this situation is to remove the existing relay and install in its place another relay, in the operation of which you are absolutely sure. If after such a replacement everything works successfully, you will have to purchase a new relay, install it and forget about this problem.

Checking the electric motor

It's sad if your second step in finding the cause is also unsuccessful. This indicates that the problem should be looked for in the electric motor itself. You will, of course, have to work hard to get it off. This is really not so much difficult as it is inconvenient, but since there is no other option, roll up your sleeves and act.

To remove the electric motor, you also have to remove other components. In particular, initially you will need to unscrew the bolt that secures the glove compartment. Next, you will need to remove the fuse box. You will find a wire connected to the recirculation flap, this also needs to be removed. After this, you will find the clip, remove it too, then remove the insulation.

Now we have almost reached our desired goal. You need to remove the damper from its mounting, you will see the remains of old grease under it. It's best to wipe it off. Next, proceed to carefully disconnect all the electrical wires that provide power to the electric motor.

Now we recommend that you take a good look at the freed up space. In this case, you will find a latch on the left side, by pressing it in the center you will be able to remove it. There are two final final steps remaining to ensure accurate removal of the heater motor on a Ford Focus 2. Simply turn it counterclockwise and pull it out through the right side.

Now that the electric motor has been successfully removed, you can check its functionality. To do this, connect the electric motor directly to the battery. If it works, then the problem is not in it; you should look for reasons in the wiring, as well as in the control unit.

When a direct connection to the battery indicated that the electric motor was “silent,” it meant that it was the one that had failed. Sometimes it is possible to repair it and return it to its former performance, but only a specialist can carry out such repair work. Unfortunately, in some cases, even the most highly qualified technician cannot “resurrect” the electric motor, so you have to purchase a new one and replace it.

Very often the fan works great, but only at speed four, providing a strong supply of warm air. If you turn on any other speed, the fan stops. In this case, you can be sure that one of the resistors has failed. Unfortunately, it is not possible to replace just one, so you have to replace the entire unit.

So, any car owner can identify the reasons why the fan does not want to function normally, as a result of which warm air is not supplied to the cabin, if he has set such goals for himself and is determined to perform some manipulations to eliminate the malfunction. Using our tips, it will be a little easier for you to complete technical tasks and restore the fan’s functionality on your own.

Replacing the heater fuse for Ford Focus 2

Replacement

heat fuse for Ford Focus 2.

If the malfunction manifests itself in the stove not working in all positions except the last, then it is a rheostat. It can all be done by replacing the thermal fuse on the electric resistor. The most difficult thing in all this repair is getting the thermistor. repairing the steering rack of a ford focus car how to check the suspension of a ford focus 2 focus 2. changing the oil in the automatic transmission ford focus 2 automatic transmission 4f27. Is the Ford Focus 2 restyling so good? It is located under the dashboard on the driver's side.

First, let's turn off the power to the car (disconnecting the terminals from the battery).
Then we need to unscrew the accelerator pedal.
Under the dashboard on top, in the area of the accelerator pedal, it is necessary to disconnect the wiring harness that goes to the heater resistance block block of the Ford Focus 2 car.
Next, unscrew the two screws securing the resistance to the heater (it is better to use an L-shaped wrench).
We take out the thermistor, we need to check the electrical fuse on the rheostat (it is located on the back side of the block).
There can be many verification methods, but let’s look at the most common one (in our opinion). Let's take a new thermal fuse (TZ D-225 16A or TZ D-210 16A are suitable) and attach it to the resistor in place of the old one (the attachment method can be any kind, the only thing that is not allowed is soldering without removing heat from the electrical fuse).
Let's attach the thermistor to the block and, without putting everything back together, check it at each position.
If everything works, then we assemble everything in the reverse order (replace the cabin filter at the same time). Front pads for Ford Focus 2 spare parts Ford, Focus 2, Focus 3, fusion-fiesta, mondeo, s. A 4-liter gasoline engine installed on a Chevrolet Lacetti, being a motor): previously driven in Niva, but in 2013. Failure of the electric resistor may be a consequence of a clogged filter, and with the accelerator pedal removed, changing it is much easier.
Read also: Mass air flow sensor (MAF) 2110: symptoms of problems, diagnosis and repair

Ford Focus 2 heater repair

The content of the article:

Ford Focus 2 heater heater motor repair

Last winter, I remember the heater motor humming in the cold. It jammed periodically. Without waiting for frost, I decided to take it off and check what and how... First, we remove the glove compartment. All without any problems.

Next, remove the fuses down and move the wiring aside. Someone had already climbed before me, it seemed.

Remove the jack from the glove compartment side - (air circulation damper) and remove the main power supply from the pedal assembly side. Next, remove the motor by unscrewing the 3 bolts securing the casing and turning the motor itself counterclockwise from the side of the pedal assembly. Everything is pulled out through fuses. The entire procedure of unscrewing 3 bolts takes an hour and a half. They are practically invisible and everything is to the touch. Now everything is filmed. Let's start rebuilding the motor. The motor is easy to disassemble. Impeller - heating and tapping. The rotor is riveted.

How to replace the resistor and heater fuse on a Ford Focus 2 car

How to remove the heater motor?

In principle, as experienced auto mechanics say, this task is not so difficult as it is painstaking, since most of the work has to be done by touch.

Therefore, when starting the process of removing the heater motor, you need to be patient and do everything in the described sequence:

It is necessary to remove the glove compartment by unscrewing the seven fastening screws.
Remove the cover of the module in which the fuses and the unit itself are located.
Remove the power wires from the recirculation damper.
After disconnecting the clip, the insulation must be removed.
We unscrew the fastening and pull out the damper, first removing the remaining old grease with a rag.
Remove the wires from the motor terminals.
On the driver's side, on the fan housing, there is a lock. It must be felt and pressed towards the center, after which the body can be turned counterclockwise without effort. If possible, it is necessary to lower the damper down as much as possible, after which the motor is moved to the upper right part.
Pull the motor out through the window formed after removing the fuse box.

Install the motor in the reverse order, and apply lubricant to the recirculation flap.

Diagnostics

It is very simple to identify this inoperability: if the resistor fails, the heater operates only in the fourth (direct) position. If it does not work in any of the positions, then this is most likely due to the failure of the electrical fuse or the motor rotation speed switch. In some cases, the relay fails.

Let's start with the simplest and move to the complex. Replacing the thermal fuse is a simple action that a car enthusiast should be able to perform. The main thing is to know where the fuse box is located, where the one you need is located and what its amperage is. This information can be found in the vehicle maintenance book (fuse box diagram). In our case, this is an F-10 at 30 A. You can get it by opening the thermal fuse box in the glove compartment area using pliers or round nose pliers. We take it out, replace it with a new one and close the electrical fuse box. If the heater still shows no signs of life, you should try changing the relay. Just take it out and replace it with a new one.

First, let's turn off the power to the car (disconnecting the terminals from the battery).
Then we need to unscrew the gas pedal.
Under the top of the dashboard, in the area of the accelerator pedal, you need to disconnect the wiring harness that goes to the heater resistance block block of the Ford Focus 2 car.
Next, unscrew the two screws securing the resistance to the heater (it is better to use an L-shaped wrench).
We take out the thermistor, we need to check the electrical fuse on the rheostat (it is located on the opposite side from the block).
There can be many ways to check, but let’s consider the simplest (in our opinion). Let's take a new thermal fuse (TZ D-225 16A or TZ D-210 16A are suitable) and attach it to the resistor in place of the old one (the mounting method can be any, the only thing that is not allowed is soldering without removing heat from the fuse).
Let's attach the thermistor to the block and, without putting everything back together, check it at each position.
If everything works, then we reassemble everything in the reverse order (replace the cabin filter at the same time). Failure of the electric resistor may be a consequence of a clogged filter, and with the gas pedal removed, replacing it is much easier.

Having done such simple manipulations, we can enjoy the quiet rustling of the stove at any speed of the heater motor. Services charge considerable sums for such a replacement, but after all that has been done, we can say with confidence that all this is not very difficult and any car enthusiast can do it.

Disassembling the torpedo

If you still decide to get the heater yourself, there is a small task that you cannot cope with on your own and you need to seek the help of specialists with special equipment. If your car is equipped with an air conditioning system, then you need to discharge the system. This can be done in a special service, which, upon completion of the work, will charge the system back to you.

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Turn off the power to the car (disconnect the terminals from the battery).
We remove the dashboard.
Then lining the tunnel.
We take out the plug on the right facing.
We remove the left facing.
Unscrew the screw securing the bottom cover.
Bend down the bottom trim.
We remove the lead from the diagnostic connector.
Disconnect the clamp from the light switch.
We press the lining away from the left pillar and take it out.
We take out the trim of the right front pillar.
We remove the center console trim.
We unscrew the four screws, disconnect the terminals, antenna plugs and remove the audio system.
After this, remove the air duct.
After it there is a second central air duct with a deflector.
We remove the sidewall.
Then the glove compartment.
After it are both air ducts.
We remove the control unit for the stove and air conditioner.
Disconnect the terminals from the device and remove it.
We remove the emergency lights from the tidy.
Disconnect the clamps from the hazard warning switch.
Remove the cover from the socket.
Disconnect the terminal from the diffuser.
We take it out and disconnect the backlight output from it.
We unscrew the fastening of the airbag bracket to the console frame, then disconnect the terminals from the passenger airbag.
We unscrew the screws securing the tidy to the frame on the left.
On the right, unscrew the fastening of the console to the frame.
We unscrew the screws under the glove compartment.
Behind the central deflector, unscrew the screws that are located behind the audio system.
We take the entire panel out of the car.

Now we have reached the heater assembly with radiator and evaporator, let’s disconnect it too:

Let's drain the coolant from the car's thermal system.
We disconnect the pipes from the flange.
Then the hoses from the heater.
Unscrew the fastenings of the lower part of the stove.
Unscrew the fasteners of the right air duct to the cross member.
We take out the air ducts from the heater housing.
Disconnect the wire clamps from the speed control relay.
After that - from the fan.
After which - from the damper drive.
Unscrew the filter cover and remove it.
Remove the rubber seal.
After this, remove the foam rubber.
Unscrew the evaporator cover fasteners and remove it.
We unscrew the fastening of the radiator casing to the cover and its fastening to the body.
Unscrew the fastening of the cover to the body and remove it.
We separate the two parts of the support flange.
Let's remove the evaporator.
We unscrew the fastening of the radiator casing to the heater body and remove everything together.
Disconnected wires from the heater.
Unscrew the upper fastener of the stove to the console and remove it.

After all the above operations, we receive a disassembled instrument panel and car heater. To assemble the Ford Focus 2 heater, you need to assemble everything in the reverse order, fill in coolant, and remove air from the hydraulic cooling system. Fill the air conditioning system with coolant at a specialized service center and enjoy the system working in good condition.

When carrying out such complex manipulations with your car, you can add sound insulation, lighting and other additional equipment. So that all efforts to remove the panel are pleasing to the eye.

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Replacing the stove radiator

We will describe the process of replacing the heater core without removing the dashboard.

First you need to remove the center console, disconnect and remove the air ducts that supply heat to the rear of the cabin. Carefully, so as not to damage the latch, remove the lower part of the trim (semicircular plastic from the front panel). After unscrewing the bolts located under the trim, you need to remove the metal corners. Both parts of the lower section of the stove body must also be removed. To do this, unscrew the fastening screws and carefully bend the latches. We remove the glove compartment and both air ducts, after which we disconnect the heater housing, along with which the radiator should appear. This is not so easy to do. To facilitate this process, it is necessary to slightly bend the torpedo stiffeners towards the side. It is necessary to disconnect all hoses from the radiator, and then remove the heater housing along with it. After repairing or replacing the radiator, assembly of the unit is carried out in the reverse manner.

Main reasons

So, we have already talked about several malfunctions that lead to poor operation of the stove. What other malfunctions can occur that affect the operation of the interior heating system? The main reasons why the stove does not heat are:

poor circulation of antifreeze in the system;
a large amount of debris, leaves, dirt and other foreign objects in the heating pipes, which prevents normal heating of the cabin;
blown fuse;
Fan relay malfunction.

Let's take a closer look at each reason.

If the level of antifreeze in the system is below normal or it has already lost its properties, then the stove

will work poorly. Also, the formation of an air lock can lead to a low temperature of air flows from the stove.

First of all, you need to add coolant to the normal level. If this does not help, then the reason for the poor performance may lie in another problem.

For example, severe contamination of the system leads to the fact that the air will heat up very little. Let's say you cleaned everything, but it didn't bring any results. Note that the second Focus in the restyled version has the same problems.

Go ahead. Often there is no hot air for a trivial reason - the air conditioner fuse has blown. To replace it, you need to open the fuse box, remove the faulty part and install a new one. However, this is not always the problem.

The furnace may blow cold air if the fan relay is faulty. It is also located in the fuse box. You can check its operation using a regular tester. To do this, you need to remove the relay and perform diagnostics. However, even if it works well, you can try installing a new relay. There is a huge chance that the system will start working well and blowing warm air. If this does not help, then perhaps the problem is in the stove itself: the electric motor, resistor, etc. are faulty.

Finding the cause and eliminating it

Indeed, it happens that after starting the engine, instead of the expected warm air, cold air begins to actively flow into the car interior, at least barely warm. Of course, not only does no one want to put up with such a problem, but also will not from a security point of view. If the supply of warm air is poor, it is impossible to eliminate icing on the glass. As a result of limited visibility, driving a vehicle is much more difficult; for this reason, you can find yourself in various unpleasant situations, including emergency ones.

Relay fault

A relay that regulates the speed of the fan is responsible for the operation of the fan. You can find it in the mounting block, slightly to the side of the fuses. For diagnostics, you will need to remove it from the mounting socket. Do this very carefully.

Diagnosis can be made in several ways. The easiest way is to measure the relay readings using a multimeter. But the method of installing a known-good part is also often used. If, after installing a working switch, the fan starts working, then we can say that you have found the problem.

The Ford Focus 2 heater fan does not work. How to remove it?

Quite often this element of the car heating system fails. Sometimes you have to listen to how terribly its bearing whistles. Nerves simply give out and the responsible car owner begins to look for ways to remove this problematic part?

It happens that when the first, second or third position of the switch is turned on, the fan does not work, starting to start only in the fourth mode. This failure is caused by the failure of additional resistors.

READ Changing the oil in a gas 53 engine

We begin to remove the stove fan.

You can get to it only after removing the glove compartment. After that, you need to remove the right air duct, remove the power supply wires from the electric motor terminals and, unscrewing the fastening screws, remove the fan.

problem with the stove

Hello everyone, dear forum users! As I already noticed, FORD has a lot of problems, and many problems are related to heating or cooling the interior. I bought my 2005 Ford Focus with many small problems that I solve as they are identified. Now in the winter the heater

! It heats up very poorly while driving. But if you stop and stand for about five minutes, it becomes very warm in the cabin, all the windows freeze - grace! But as soon as you go again, the temperature drops and becomes cool again and, as a result, the windows are again covered with a thin layer of ice. What to do, experts?

There can be many reasons and everything needs to be checked: Does the stove work in all switch positions? - aurally. What is the density of antifreeze (antifreeze), if over .40, there will be poor heat transfer! - hydrometer. What is the engine temperature that can be blown out while driving (the dial gauge on the panel has an error of 20 degrees)? - diagnostics through the connector. Perhaps the thermostat is stuck, as a result of which the engine does not heat up and the stove does not heat up! — feel the supply and return hoses on the radiator. Etc.

The stove works in all positions, the temperature is also adjustable. I don't know what kind of antifreeze. I haven't changed it since I bought it. But even if the “antifreeze density” (how do you understand density? meaning at what temperature does it freeze?) is low, then why does the stove

does it start to heat up when I stand still and the engine is idling? The engine heats up normally, although as I read, people say that it should warm up in a few minutes (in winter?!), but it takes me more than one or two minutes. It is worth sitting for about 5 minutes before the temperature reaches the operating range. After driving literally two km, the temperature is already what we need. The pointer freezes exactly in the middle of the operating range. In general, I don’t quite understand how the oven works. The heat comes from the pipe coming out of the engine, it passes through the radiator, from which a fan drives air into the cabin. So? and somewhere there is a damper that regulates the air source (from the atmosphere or from the radiator, which is hot due to the antifreeze coming out of the engine). If so, then apparently this very damper is closed for me, because, to be honest, I have even a little more antifreeze than I need. This explains the fact that when stopping, the cabin becomes warm because less air enters the system from the street.

Replacing Heater Resistor Ford Focus 2 Video

Download removable Ford Focus Video 2 resistor oven: acne treatment program

And his solution: TYCZ or TYCZ, replacing the thermal fuse. Installation / Removal of Ford Focus 2. Electric motor People, not those who do not know a fan cabinet (oven) for relaxation and 4 speeds directly without an additional resistor. hence the problem in the resistance circuit. Search 2.0i Replacement Extra Resistor

for Ford Focus heater.
Replacing the resistor oven 2 Replacing the resistor for the Ford Focus oven.
Replacing a Ford Focus Resistor 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable from the battery terminal. Replacing resistor heater Ford Focus 1 latest news, test drive, photo of Ford Focus. Removing a Ford Focus 2. Engine heater (2 wires) I also feel from the driver. Technical characteristics of Ford Focus 2; Replaced interior and included air filter Resistor Ford Heater. Focus 2. Replacing the resistor. Replacing the furnace motor. Focus Ford 2. Cupid video. January 23, 2011 The problem is that the heating resistor is on, the fan is running. 2- Buy thermal protection with a higher temperature. Replacing the alternator belt Ford Focus 2 1.8. Disassembly, lubrication, plate installation, resistance replacement. myself. Ford heater resistor replacement. Video focus 2. Replacing the heater resistor. The new Ford Focus 2 can also 10A. furnace regulator, it is necessary to replace the resistor. replacing combustion resistor Ford Focus 2 Extracting video from the exhaust manifold of Ford Focus 2. Ford Focus 2.0 USA SPI. As a result. quiet stove. Around Ford. April 24, 2014 1325972. Resistor (plate) Ford Focus-2 / Si-Max. These are two worthy replacement samples; these are TZD-192 and Zh103-192.

Special tool for removal

At branded service stations, special pullers are used to remove the standard radio on a Ford Focus 2 before restyling . Outwardly, they look like half of ordinary scissors. Four pullers are required for dismantling. In the online store of car repair tools, look for a special set of keys FORCE F-910C1 490.00 or EEC GV3301. Cost ranges from 20-40 US dollars. If you plan to remove radios on Ford cars every day, then it makes sense to purchase them.

The set includes four specially shaped pullers. They help to remove the standard radio on Ford cars

How to make a puller yourself?

For one-time dismantling of the standard radio, a special tool is made by hand. To do this you need:

old plastic card;
assembly knife with replaceable blades;
needle file or small file;
ruler.

From the card, cut four strips along the long side, 8 millimeters wide. Cut one end of each strip at a 45 degree angle. For ease of removal, small cuts are made on the strips. A drawing of the puller is shown below.

It is not difficult to make such a puller yourself. All dimensions are in millimeters

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Replacing the Rheostat for Ford Focus 2 Heater

Replacing the Rheostat for Ford Focus 2 Heater

How to replace a resistor and fuse on a Ford Focus 2

Don't be left without a heater in cool weather. it's what gets your brain moving during the warmer months. Replace the Ford Focus 2 clutch with a replacement Ford Focus 2 clutch. Replacing contact group 2 of the Ford Focus ignition switch. An error occurred in “Reduced acceleration when removing and removing the front panel of the Ford Focus 2. Dashboard. It would be very wise to check the operation before the cool season to ensure that the heat can cope with oven defects. There are a number of shortcomings that you can eliminate yourself without turning to professional or special equipment for help. In our company you can purchase stabilizers for Ford Focus 2 (Ford Focus 1,2,3) Timing Belt for Ford Focus 2 (1.6) K, so the fault is the key to the thermistor failure.

diagnostics

Detecting this disability is painfully simple: when the resistor fails, the heater only operates in the fourth (direct) position. Have you been looking for a replacement for your Ford Focus 2 heater engine? Watch the detailed video and read useful information here! If it does not operate in any position, it is most likely due to a faulty electrical fuse or engine speed switch. Replacing brake pads ford focus 2 photos, etc. In some cases, the relay fails.

Let's start with the most common and move on to the complex. Replacing the thermal fuse. this is a normal action that a car owner should take. The main thing is to know where the fuse box is located, where the amperage is right for you. Front pads on Ford Focus 2 change the front brake. Causes and symptoms of Ford Focus 2 clutch failure. Replacing the clutch disc and basket, replacing the exhaust bearing. Oil change, automatic transmission Ford Focus 2 This information can be found in a car service (fuse box). In our case, this is an F-10 with 30 A. Removing the front door of a Ford Focus 2, restyling, how to change the cabin filter. This can be achieved by opening the fuse box in the glove area using pliers or round nose pliers. We get it, replace it with a new one and close the fuse box. If the heater still shows no signs of life, try replacing the relay. Replacing the steering wheel for Ford Focus 2 2008-2011. Windshield wiper blade for Ford Focus 2 is installed on Ford Focus 2 with blade. Also receive and exchange for a new one.

Replacement of Ford Focus 2 furnace rheostat.

Be patient and follow it. The most important thing is calm. my friends)

replacement Thermal fuse Ford Focus Oven 2

If a malfunction occurs in a simple oven in all positions except the last, it is a rheostat. Everything can be done without replacing the thermal fuse on the resistor. The tricky part of this whole repair is getting the thermistor. autofocus ford steering rack repair how to check the suspension of ford focus 2 focus 2. changing the oil in the automatic transmission ford focus 2 automatic transmission 4f27. Ford Focus 2 facelift is that good? It is located under the driver's dashboard.

First, turn off the car (by removing the battery terminals).
Then we need to unscrew the accelerator pedal.
Under the dash at the top, in the accelerator pedal area, you must disconnect the wiring harness corresponding to the Ford Plate Block Block. focus 2.
Then unscrew the two screws that provide resistance to the heater (it's better to use an L-shaped wrench).
We get the thermistor, we need to check the fuse on the rheostat (it is located on the back of the block).
There can be many verification methods, but let's look at the most common ones (in our opinion). Take a new fuse (suitable for TZ D-225 16A or TZ D-210 16A) and connect it to the resistor instead of the old one (the mounting method can be soldered, but not soldered. Do not remove heat from the electrical fuse).
Connect the thermistor to the block and, without putting everything back together, check it in each position.
If everything works, then we reassemble everything in the reverse order (while changing the cabin filter). Front pads for Ford Focus 2 parts, Ford, Focus 2, Focus 3, fusion-fiesta, mondeo, p. 4-liter gasoline engine installed on a Chevrolet Lacetti as an engine): previously driven in the field and in 2013. A breakdown of the electrical resistor can be caused by a clogged filter, and when the accelerator pedal is removed, it is much easier to replace it.

Replacing the thermal fuse in the resistor block.. Ford Focus

Hello! Please tell me, has anyone changed the fuses on the interior fan of the Focus 1, 1.8 engine at least once? I have this problem: in positions 1-3 the fan is silent; in position 4 the fan is running. all the fuses that go under the steering column on the left are serviceable and work perfectly, but there is another fuse that is located somewhere near the fan itself where the glove compartment is located, or rather behind it.

I disassembled everything that was possible, and along the way the fuse is located if you look at this whole device while sitting from the passenger seat on the left, fixed to the body with 3 bolts, which are not really reachable since there is only 2-3 cm left to the body of the car, or rather crawl up to unscrew them. Please tell me where exactly this fuse is located, and how to get to it or unscrew it. If anyone has the opportunity to take a photo and indicate exactly where the fuse is located, I will be very glad.

Good afternoon. Most likely, the fuse is blown because of the fan motor; apparently it turns very hard because of this, heating and overload occur. In this case, lubrication and cleaning will help, but not for long. Most likely, the thermal fuse has burned out. He is guarding the block of ballast resistors. The harder the fan spins, the greater the current, the more these resistors will heat up. I also advise you to check the 30 A fuse located in the fuse box under the hood. Perhaps you need to change it, no need to go anywhere. The block immediately catches your eye when you open the hood. Or a thermal fuse that is located on the fan resistor. The most important thing is that the tin with which you solder this thermal fuse, you need to buy heat-resistant one. next to it there is a thermostat, which gets very hot due to the resistance, by the way, on the thermal fuse itself there is a number of 230 i.e. temperature of the thermal fuse, so when you buy it, ask for it with this characteristic. Remember - when you solder, DO NOT OVERHEAT THE THERMAL FUSE, otherwise it will trip! Everything needs to be done quickly and carefully.

Hello. And if the 4th speed of the heater fan does not work. For Ford Focus 2, what should you do in such a situation? Thank you in advance

bn22:
Hello.
And if the 4th speed of the heater fan does not work. For Ford Focus 2, what should you do in such a situation?
Thank you in advance

Do the first three work? Describe the “situation” in more detail and more clearly.

on fort focus 1 fuse is on rotary vinteator what the hell

PATRIOT7:
on fort focus 1 fuse is on rotary vinteator what the hell #

The motor can rotate tightly in the bushings or have an interturn short circuit in the armature, and this causes the current consumption to increase.

seems to be spinning fine

yes, I changed the coals and oil and nothing else

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How to remove the heater resistor on a Ford Focus 2

We remove the heater to repair or replace it, as well as to remove the heater radiator and the evaporator of the air conditioning system. Disconnect the wire terminal from the negative terminal of the battery. Before starting work, it is necessary to discharge the air conditioning system. The air conditioning system must be discharged or charged with refrigerant at specialized services for servicing air conditioning systems. If the air conditioning system is depressurized as a result of through corrosion or mechanical damage in its parts, in this case there is no need to discharge the system.

We disconnect the two air conditioning system pipes from the evaporator flange (see “11.12. Ford Focus II. Removing the instrument panel frame”).

We remove the heater hoses from the pipes (see “11.12. Ford Focus II. Removing the instrument panel frame”).

We remove the instrument panel frame (see “11.12. Ford Focus II. Removing the instrument panel frame” ). When removing the frame, unscrew one long bolt each securing the right and left frame brackets to the transverse pipe of the instrument panel frame (see “11.12. Ford Focus II. Removing the instrument panel frame”).

These same bolts simultaneously secure the lower part of the heater to the cross pipe.

Removed instrument panel frame assembly with heater

Using a Torx T-25 wrench, unscrew the self-tapping screw securing the right air duct to the transverse pipe of the instrument panel frame.

We remove the air duct from the hole in the heater housing and remove the air duct. Similarly, remove the left air duct.

Press the latch...

...and disconnect the wiring harness connector from the heater fan motor speed controller.

By pressing the latch, disconnect the wiring harness block from the heater fan.

By pressing the latch, disconnect the wiring harness block from the electric drive of the damper for turning on the air recirculation mode.

Using the “7” head, unscrew the three self-tapping screws securing the filter cover of the heating, ventilation and air conditioning system...

...remove the cover...

...and remove the filter from the heater housing.

We move the rubber seal from the supporting flange of the evaporator tubes and the heater radiator...

...and remove it.

Use a screwdriver to pry up and remove the foam rubber fastening piston.

We remove the foam rubber.

Using a Torx T-25 wrench, unscrew the three self-tapping screws securing the evaporator cover...

...and remove it.

Using a Torx T-27 wrench, unscrew the two self-tapping screws securing the heater radiator casing to the evaporator and radiator cover.

...and two self-tapping screws securing the cover to the heater body.

Using a Torx T-20 wrench, unscrew the five screws securing the cover to the heater body...

...and remove the cover.

Using a Torx T-25 wrench, unscrew the two screws connecting the two parts of the support flange...

...and separate them.

Remove the spacer for the evaporator hoses and heater radiator pipes.

Having unfolded the evaporator with tubes, as shown in the photo, remove it.

If it is not necessary to remove the heater radiator, in this case we install the evaporator of the air conditioning system in the reverse order. We fill the required amount of coolant into the engine cooling system and charge the air conditioning system at a specialized service center for servicing air conditioning systems. If you need to remove the heater radiator and heater housing, then after removing the evaporator, perform the following operations.

Using a Torx T-27 wrench, unscrew the two self-tapping screws securing the radiator casing to the heater body...

...and remove the casing along with the radiator.

Remove the heater radiator from the casing. If it is not necessary to remove the heater housing, in this case we install the heater radiator and the evaporator of the air conditioning system in the reverse order. We fill the required amount of coolant into the engine cooling system and charge the air conditioning system at a specialized service center for servicing air conditioning systems. If you need to remove the heater housing, then after removing the radiator, perform the following operations.

Use a screwdriver to unscrew the wiring harness holder...

...and remove it from the heater fin.

Using a 10mm head, unscrew the two self-tapping screws for the upper fastening of the heater housing to the instrument panel frame...

...and remove it.

Heater housing assembly with fan Install the heater in the reverse order.

How to remove the heater motor?

In principle, as experienced auto mechanics say, this task is not so difficult as it is painstaking, since most of the work has to be done by touch.

Therefore, when starting the process of removing the heater motor, you need to be patient and do everything in the described sequence:

It is necessary to remove the glove compartment by unscrewing the seven fastening screws.
Remove the cover of the module in which the fuses and the unit itself are located.
Remove the power wires from the recirculation damper.
After disconnecting the clip, the insulation must be removed.
We unscrew the fastening and pull out the damper, first removing the remaining old grease with a rag.
Remove the wires from the motor terminals.
On the driver's side, on the fan housing, there is a lock. It must be felt and pressed towards the center, after which the body can be turned counterclockwise without effort. If possible, it is necessary to lower the damper down as much as possible, after which the motor is moved to the upper right part.
Pull the motor out through the window formed after removing the fuse box.

Install the motor in the reverse order, and apply lubricant to the recirculation flap.