Manual for repairing and replacing the pump of a VAZ 2106 car

Replacing the pump on cars VAZ-2101, VAZ-2102, VAZ-2104, VAZ-2105, VAZ-2106,

Replacing the pump or water pump (whichever is more convenient for you) on VAZ-2101, VAZ-2102, VAZ-2104, VAZ-2105, VAZ-2106, VAZ-2107, Classic cars must be done for two reasons.
First, the pump leaked. That is, traces of a coolant leak were found on the pump. In this case, replacement should be carried out as quickly as possible. Since the first drops of antifreeze or antifreeze can very quickly turn into a stream and all the liquid will end up under the car in a matter of minutes. The second reason is that the pump hummed. This means the water pump bearings have failed. In this case, you will have a little more time to think before the pump leaks or jams. But only the pump itself can say exactly how long it will take))). What can a time period from one month to the next turn mean? In both cases, the result is the same: failure of the pump, overheating of the engine and further movement of the car using a tow rope. In general, as a result of the above, we try not to delay replacing the pump, and carefully read the article further and decide whether to carry out the replacement ourselves or whether it is better to contact a mechanic... Now we move on to the next stage - choosing-purchasing a pump and compiling a list of tools that will be needed for the job.

I think that I won’t surprise anyone if I advise you to buy only a VAZ pump!? As always this is the best choice. If, however, it is not possible to buy a VAZ one, then it is difficult to advise anything specific, since at the moment there are quite a few manufacturers of pumps for Zhiguli. Here it’s up to your taste, pocket and seller’s recommendations. The only other thing I can add is to check that the gasket is included in the kit, buy a small tube of sealant and do not mess with Fenox (maybe I was unlucky, but the pumps from this manufacturer were often not pleased with their quality).

What else... Yes! Replacing the pump is an excellent reason to replace the coolant in your car. It is worth checking in advance what condition (color, density) the antifreeze or antifreeze is in your car. Remember the last time it was replaced.

Now for the instrument. To replace the water pump (pump) on cars VAZ-2101, VAZ-2102, VAZ-2104, VAZ-2105, VAZ-2106, VAZ-2107 you will need: open-end wrenches (the presence of socket wrenches is also welcome) wrenches 8, 10, 13, 17, container for draining coolant, screwdriver, wrench 27-30 (in case, instead of the drain plug on the radiator, you have to unscrew the fan switch sensor).

And finally, about the main thing - a description of replacing the pump (water pump) on VAZ-2101, VAZ-2102, VAZ-2104, VAZ-2105, VAZ-2106, VAZ-2107, Classic, Zhiguli cars:

• We unscrew the drain plug on the engine block (photo 1) and drain the liquid into a previously prepared container. If you are planning to replace the coolant, then look for the drain plug (or, as in my case, the fan on sensor on the radiator, see photo 2) on the cooling radiator, unscrew it and drain the liquid.

• We remove the battery. Disconnect the electric fan block (photo 3). We unscrew the three bolts securing the fan casing (photo 4) to the radiator and pull it out.

• Using a 17 wrench, loosen (you don’t have to completely unscrew) the generator belt tension nut (photo 5), loosen the tension and remove the belt. After this, use a 17mm wrench to unscrew the nut securing the bracket to the pump (photo 6) and move the bracket to the side.

• Holding the pump pulley with a screwdriver, unscrew the three mounting bolts (photo 7). We remove the pulley.

• Now all that remains is to unscrew the four nuts securing the pump to the engine (photo and remove the pump. After this, clean the place where the pump fits from traces of the old gasket and dirt, install a new gasket (after having lubricated it with sealant) and install the new pump on the car.

Troubleshooting

The following problems are typical for water pumps of classic VAZ models:

• bearing wear and resulting shaft play;
• antifreeze leakage through the oil seal;
• shaft distortion and jamming.

The pump impeller is inserted into a separate housing mounted on the cylinder block.
Almost all pump problems are the result of worn-out bearings. With little wear and play of the shaft, the pump operates normally. As the gaps in the bearing separators increase, the oil seal begins to leak antifreeze, and unnatural noises are heard from the pump installation site when the engine is running - a hum or crackling sound. As a result, the shaft becomes distorted. The further scenario can develop in three ways.

1. The bearing jams and the belt jumps off the pulleys. The engine continues to run, but the red battery discharge lamp lights up on the dashboard, and the coolant temperature rises sharply to the maximum.
2. As a result of bearing jamming, the shaft breaks into two parts. As in the first case, when the engine is running, the battery discharge lamp lights up and the maximum coolant temperature is observed.
3. Due to the skewed shaft, the rotating impeller breaks a hole in the wall of the pump housing, through which all the antifreeze comes out within a few seconds, and the engine instantly overheats. In this case, you will have to change not only the pump, but also the housing in which the impeller broke the wall.

As a result of bearing wear and misalignment, the pump shaft may break.
Unlike front-wheel drive VAZ models, where the pump is hidden under the timing cover, in the “classic” it is in plain sight. Therefore, it is much easier to avoid unpleasant consequences. You only need to periodically check the pump as follows.

1. Start the engine, open the hood and listen. If there are suspicious noises from the front of the engine, manually press the accelerator and increase the speed until the hum becomes clearly audible.
2. Carefully inspect the front of the engine for coolant leaks.
3. If you find traces of leaking antifreeze, grab the pump pulley with your hand and shake it along the shaft axis in order to detect any play.
4. If you feel a slight play when the belt is tensioned or you doubt the diagnostic result, unscrew the nut securing the generator to the adjusting bracket and loosen the belt. After this, pump the pump pulley again.

The nut keeps the belt taut

Due to the considerable age of these cars, the “native” plant no longer produces original spare parts for them. Commercially available parts rarely last more than 50 thousand kilometers. You should focus on this figure when servicing your car, which will help you detect a malfunction in time.

If you notice a slight play, you should not immediately start replacing the water pump. It will still “live” for 3-5 thousand kilometers. However, its condition will have to be constantly monitored and a new pump will have to be purchased in advance.

If there is any leakage of antifreeze, noticeable play in the shaft, and a cracking sound is heard during operation, the pump should be immediately replaced with a new one.

How to repair a water pump on a VAZ classic with your own hands: tips, instructions

The power unit is, of course, the most important component of any car. But do not forget that the main condition for its uninterrupted operation is high-quality cooling. Therefore, the cooling system plays an important role in the operation of any machine. In this case, it is worth paying considerable attention to the water pump (that is, the pump), which ensures the circulation of antifreeze in the system. Drivers often independently repair or replace the pump on a VAZ classic, since these procedures cannot be called complex and time-consuming.

What causes a pump malfunction?

Motorists must ensure that all parts of their car are functioning properly.

If something works intermittently, you need to pay attention to it and try to fix the problem. If you don’t trust your abilities, then contact a car service center, where specialists will quickly fix or replace everything.

You should not start problems as this may affect the overall performance of the car. For example, due to a breakdown of the pump, the circulation of coolant is often disrupted, and this leads to overheating of the car engine. To prevent this from happening, you need to repair the device in time. To do this you need:

1. Start and warm up the car, and then clamp the upper radiator hose. If fluid circulation is observed, this means that everything is fine.
2. Next, you need to remove the timing belt cover and check for black spots on the oil seal. If they are not there, then the part is working properly, therefore, there is no need to replace it.

You can tell that the pump is faulty by an unpleasant whistling sound. In such a situation, it is necessary to check the pump and replace it if necessary. The replacement procedure is quite complicated, but those who understand the machine can easily complete it. The main thing is to follow the instructions and follow the sequence:

• First you need to drive the car into the pit and remove the crankcase protection. The engine must be cooled down so as not to get burned on it;
• after this, you need to lift the hood and unscrew the valve from the radiator;
• unscrew the bolt on the cylinder block and drain the fluid;
• unscrew the bolt that holds the timing belt casing;
• remove the timing pulley bolt;
• unscrew the belt tensioner nut;
• remove the belt from the pulley and pump, and then move it to the radiator;
• remove protection;
• use a flat screwdriver to pry off the edge of the pump;
• remove the remaining gasket in the pump block;
• install a new pump;
• assemble everything in reverse order.

As we can see, the procedure is not easy. These recommendations will be useful to those who have experience performing similar tasks. But it’s better, of course, to contact a service center, where they are guaranteed to replace the pump correctly. If you make a mistake during replacement, serious problems with the cooling system may begin, which are sometimes not immediately noticed, which further aggravates the situation. You shouldn’t risk your vehicle, it’s better to pay the experts and continue to operate your iron horse, forgetting about breakdowns and malfunctions. Today pumps cost from 500 to 1,000 rubles. It is advisable to purchase more expensive options, as they have high technical characteristics.

You should not delay this, as the liquid from the pump can block the bearing, which will lead to a break in the timing belt, which will begin to bend the valve. As a result of all this, several parts of the car will have to be replaced, which will be very expensive. Timely repair or replacement of the pump will save your budget and prevent other breakdowns.

The online store AvtoALL.RU has a wide range of pumps for VAZ of the entire model range of cars, from leading domestic and foreign manufacturers, such as TZA, HEPU, HOLA, PEKAR and others.

Typical pump problems include leaking or humming bearings. In both the first and second cases, it is necessary to immediately replace the faulty pump with a new one. Otherwise, problems will arise with the engine cooling system, which will lead to malfunctions of the engine itself.

The choice is large and often difficult. So call us and we will help you choose a pump for your VAZ car. It is not always worth relying on tests in automobile magazines; many articles are written as advertisements and most of them are custom-made. The right choice would be the help of a specialist who is well versed in all the intricacies and will help you make the right choice.

Do-it-yourself pump repair for a VAZ 2107

The water pump, as mentioned above, is designed to provide the necessary pressure in the cooling system, that is, the circulation of liquid throughout the system. The blades of the device rotate, due to which antifreeze is supplied to the engine cylinders and cools them efficiently.

If the pump stops working, antifreeze will not flow to the engine. Accordingly, the engine may overheat, “boil” and jam. The main malfunctions of the pump on the “classic” are:

leak through the gasket;

leak through the seal;

Preparing tools

Repairing the pump is impossible without using a special repair kit. It usually includes all the small pump parts and rubber seals necessary for replacement. In addition, you will have to immediately prepare the following tool:

socket wrench 17;

socket wrench 13;

a hammer (like a mallet) - for knocking out parts of the body if the parts do not come out on their own;

a little antifreeze (or antifreeze).

Video: repairing a water pump in a garage

Malfunctions of “classic” water pumps

In older Zhiguli models, the engine is cooled using a special non-freezing liquid - antifreeze, circulating from the engine water jacket to the main radiator. The fluid is forced to move through the system by the rotating impeller of the pump built into the front part of the power unit. It is driven by the crankshaft via a belt drive.

The pump and generator pulley rotates with a belt from the crankshaft

To understand the causes of pump malfunctions, you need to know its structure. The part consists of the following main elements that perform certain functions:

• a housing with a flange serves for hermetically sealed fastening to the engine;
• the shaft is necessary for attaching the impeller and drive pulley;
• roller bearing ensures shaft rotation;
• an impeller with blades pumps coolant;
• hub - fastening element of the drive pulley;
• the seal prevents antifreeze from seeping into the bearing;
• The locking screw secures the bearing race inside the housing.

  
  The cause of pump failure is usually the roller bearing and oil seal.

The pump is not screwed directly to the cylinder block, but to the second housing, where the thermostat pipe fits.

The vast majority of water pump malfunctions occur due to wear of two elements - the oil seal and the bearing. Owners of “classics” have to deal with the following breakdowns:

All of the listed problems can be eliminated by replacing the corresponding elements, provided that the housing itself is not broken. In this case, the pump is replaced entirely.

How to remove a pump from a car

Of course, repair work will need to be carried out on the pump, which has already been removed from the motor. Procedure for removing the pump:

Make sure the engine is cool.

Unscrew the plug to drain the antifreeze (the plug is located on the engine block). To drain the coolant completely, you must also unscrew the drain plug from the radiator.

Disconnect the fuel lines from the pump.

Loosen the generator belt tension rack to make it easier to remove the belt itself.

Remove the three bolts that secure the pump to the generator pulley.

Next, unscrew the nuts that secure the pump to the engine housing.

Pull the pump out from under the hood.

How to disassemble the pump

In order to repair a water pump, you will first need to disassemble it into its component parts. It is recommended to adhere to the following operating procedures:

Unscrew the pump pulley from the shaft.

Pull out the stop ring.

Knock the bearing off the shaft.

Pull the shaft itself out of the housing.

Disconnect the impeller from the housing.

The impeller is disconnected using wrenches, since it is attached to the body with bolted connections

Replacing a bearing on a VAZ-2107

It is quite difficult to remove the old bearing and put on a new one; you must be able to use a special device - a hydraulic vice for working with shafts.

I bought a pump cover with an impeller and a bearing. It is possible to change the bearing, but it is difficult and there is a high probability of poor quality of the part and the assembly itself. The asking price is from 250 rubles (with a plastic impeller) to 300 (with a cast iron impeller).

Vladimirych

https://autolada.ru/viewtopic.php?t=182390

Car owners themselves recommend not knocking out old bearings and inserting new ones, since there is no guarantee of the success of this procedure. The easiest way is to immediately buy a shaft with bearings assembled and drive it into the pump body.

pump pulley

Forum about the operation of Skoda Felicia cars (Skoda Felicia) 1994 – 2001.

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pump pulley

Dmitril » Thu, 16 Jul 2009, 12:48
Hello. car 1.3 carb.98g. The pump pulley has fallen apart. It needs to be replaced in the field without removing the pump. How tightly is it pressed onto the shaft, and can it be removed from the shaft without damaging the housing and everything else. I tried using screwdrivers in the gap between the pulley and the shaft, it gives in a little. Maybe there are also hidden pulley fasteners. Country Internet. I didn't really find anything in the search. who changed it please tell me.

Dmitril Messages: 134 Registered: Sun, 02 Mar 2008, 20:01 From: St. Petersburg

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verhovnuj725 » Thu, 16 Jul 2009, 13:50
It will probably be possible to remove it - maybe. But putting it on will be problematic because the fit is very tight. There are no additional fasteners.

verhovnuj725 Messages: 927 Registered: Thu Jun 21, 2007 7:27 am From: Mo. Khimki Left Bank!

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pump pulley

Dmitril » Thu, 16 Jul 2009, 15:46
Is there anything left to change the pump assembly? the same way the bearings and the pulley are pressed in. they don't hit with a sledgehammer

Dmitril Messages: 134 Registered: Sun, 02 Mar 2008, 20:01 From: St. Petersburg

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dmb » Thu, 16 Jul 2009, 16:54
The pulley is seated very tightly, most likely “hot”, without removing the pump it cannot be removed. Another option to get to the garage is to drive slowly without revving the engine; the belt will still turn the pump. Personally, I drove about 10 km like this before the service. And after such a trip the belt will also need to be changed...

Skoda Felicia II combi 1.3 carb. 1998

dmb Messages: 108 Registered: Sun, 11 Jan 2009, 7:49 From: Kirov

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pump pulley

Dmitril » Thu, 16 Jul 2009, 16:54
While I was waiting for an answer, I already removed it. Easy to remove with 2 screwdrivers. I don’t want to change the pump because of the pulley. It seems to me that when it’s hot it can’t be pressed in and it becomes deformed. the pulley is so thin that it

Last edited

Dmitril

Thu, 16 Jul 2009, 16:59, edited 1 time in total.

Dmitril Messages: 134 Registered: Sun, 02 Mar 2008, 20:01 From: St. Petersburg

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Re: pump pulley

dmb » Thu, 16 Jul 2009, 16:56

Dmitril wrote: while I was waiting for an answer I already removed it. Easy to remove with 2 screwdrivers. I don’t want to change the pump because of the pulley

Please tell us how you used screwdrivers (in case it comes in handy in the future).

Skoda Felicia II combi 1.3 carb. 1998

dmb Messages: 108 Registered: Sun, 11 Jan 2009, 7:49 From: Kirov

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pump pulley

Dmitril » Thu, Jul 16, 2009, 5:12 pm
it broke thinly in the center. A gap has formed between the shaft and the housing. Insert 2 screwdrivers into this gap and take turns using a hammer to prevent distortion. the last 0.5 is generally calm. Dressing shouldn't be a problem either.

Dmitril Messages: 134 Registered: Sun, 02 Mar 2008, 20:01 From: St. Petersburg

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dmb » Thu, 16 Jul 2009, 17:15
Thank you! They welded the pulley for me, if it suddenly breaks again, I will remove it without the blue pump.

Skoda Felicia II combi 1.3 carb. 1998

dmb Messages: 108 Registered: Sun, 11 Jan 2009, 7:49 From: Kirov

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Global » Thu, 16 Jul 2009, 22:50

dmb wrote: Thank you! They welded the pulley for me, if it suddenly breaks again, I will remove it without the blue pump.

They brewed it for me too! They said that now it’s not a wreck!

Global Messages: 147 Registered: Tue, 21 Apr 2009, 22:55 From: Bryansk

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pump pulley

Dmitril » Sun, 19 Jul 2009, 16:37
I installed a pulley today. The last 3mm is a bit difficult, just like shooting. The service center will not bother with replacing the pulley or will charge a lot. I’m outside the city, it’s easier for me to find a board for support or use a grinder to do something

Dmitril Messages: 134 Registered: Sun, 02 Mar 2008, 20:01 From: St. Petersburg

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Global » Thu, 05 Nov 2009, 22:43
Is it really possible to disassemble a pump in a garage? I would like to rebuild the old one (the oil seal is leaking). Share your experience!

hatch 1.3 carb.

Global Messages: 147 Registered: Tue, 21 Apr 2009, 22:55 From: Bryansk

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pump pulley

Dmitril » Sat Nov 07, 2009 12:42 pm
Hello. I cut the pulley off the old pump with a grinder. I would not replace the oil seal. Remove the pump anyway. Compared to analogues, the difference is not very much, but it is unknown how the pump will behave after replacement. Don’t judge strictly, but my reasoning is of the same order. In any case, on 1.3 the pump serves as additional protection against excess pressure in the cooling system. The seal in the pump is installed with a spring, and when the pressure increases, it opens and discharges through the drain hole. In general, if there is a stronger spring on the plugs on the tank than on the pump, the pressure will be released on the pump.

Dmitril Messages: 134 Registered: Sun, 02 Mar 2008, 20:01 From: St. Petersburg

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Lev_li » Sat, 07 Nov 2009, 21:19
let this spring and hole not be misleading, this is not a bypass device

Lev_li Messages: 207 Registered: Mon Apr 27, 2009 07:09 PM

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Zaur » Mon, 09 Nov 2009, 22:04
Good day, question about the pump.. Due to the fact that the old pump arrived, I ordered an analogue from Dolz from Exist. After receiving the long-awaited pump, when comparing it with the one on the car, I was a little puzzled by the following: the pulley on the new pump is different from the one on the car... The new pulley has grooves all around, which is not on the old pulley. It turns out that when replacing the belt will not fit on the pump pulley. What do you advise forum users to grind off the grooves on a lathe so that the belt fits properly or return the part for a replacement? And is it possible to remove the pulley from the old pump and attach it to the new one without complications?

Added after 2 minutes 1 second:

Filet 1.3 carb 97g.

Zaur Posts: 9 Registered: Mon Jul 20, 2009 11:03 am

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How to fix a pump leak with your own hands

If the pump on a VAZ “classic” leaks, then you can no longer drive such a car, because the engine can quickly overheat. It is necessary to separate the concepts of “the pump is leaking”, because the pump can leak only slightly, and the circulation will not be impaired. Or the coolant may leak heavily and it is no longer possible to put off repairing the device.

A pump leak can occur due to wear of the oil seal or cuff. That is, it will be necessary to remove the pump, disassemble it and replace the worn element. Replacement procedures are listed above.

If the pump has been in use for a long time, it is not advisable to carry out repairs. It is recommended to buy a new water pump and install it in place of the old one.

Thus, all the main work on restoring the water pump on a VAZ “classic” can be done with your own hands. However, Zhiguli owners prefer to repair the pump only in cases where the oil seal is leaking or the impeller is worn out. These are simple works that can restore the life of the pump. In other cases, it is easier to buy a new pump, since repairs can be very complicated.