Throttle cable
The intermediate link between the accelerator pedal and the throttle valve is a cable. It is the correct tension of the throttle drive cable that allows you to get maximum power from the engine and its stable operation at idle. After all, weak cable tension can cause the throttle valve not to open fully and, accordingly, the engine will not develop maximum power. A overtightened cable can cause even more problems. Indeed, in such a situation, the throttle valve may not close completely and suck air into the manifold, increasing engine speed. But this is not the worst thing. The fact is that the ECU judges engine load largely by relying on sensors in the throttle valve. These sensors are the throttle position sensor and the throttle valve closing sensor. The latter is a simple electrical contact.
Namely, when the cable is adjusted correctly, when the gas pedal is released, the valve closes as much as possible, closing the contacts, which in turn gives the ECU a command to close the throttle valve. The ECU switches the engine to idle mode.
Throttle position cable - checking, adjustment, removal and installation
Note. This paragraph is only relevant for models up to 2000.
Examination
1. Remove the air filter housing and air intake duct (see Chapter 4).
2. Have an assistant press the accelerator pedal all the way to the floor and hold it in this position until you measure the distance between the end of the cable sheath boot and the cable stopper.
3. If the measurement result falls within the limits indicated in Fig. 4.3, the cable does not need adjustment. If there is a discrepancy, adjust the cable as follows:
Rice. 4.3. The distance between the cable stopper and the end of the shell should be within 0-1 mm when the accelerator pedal is fully pressed (to the floor)
Adjustment
4. Ask your assistant to continue holding the pedal in the same position, while you loosen the adjusting nuts and adjust the gap to the correct value.
5. Tighten the adjusting nuts securely and check the clearance again. Make sure that the throttle valve is fully open when the accelerator pedal is fully depressed.
Removal and installation
6. Loosen the locknuts securing the cable sheath and disconnect it from the bracket on the throttle body.
7. Disconnect the cable from the throttle linkage.
8. Release the cable from the bracket on the automatic transmission housing.
9. Trace the route of the cable downwards, where it enters the automatic transmission housing. Unscrew the cable fixing clamp bolt.
10. Drain the transmission fluid, remove the pan and automatic transmission filter (see chapter 1A or 1B).
11. If you are working on a 1996 or 1997 2WD model, remove the two bolts and oil cooler pipe mounting bracket. Carefully pry up the lines with a large screwdriver and remove them from the automatic transmission.
12. Remove the selector retaining spring (see Fig. 4.12).
Rice. 4.12. Remove the selector retaining spring - 4WD model shown; 2WD models only use one mounting bolt
And the bolt is 14 mm.
B. bolt. 37.mm
Note. On 2WD models, the retaining spring is secured with one bolt, on 4WD models - with two bolts.
13. If you are working with a 4WD model, unscrew the five bolts and remove the manual valve (see Fig. 4.13).
Rice. 4.13. On 4WD models, remove these bolts and remove the manual valve
And the bolt is 22 mm.
B. bolt. 37.mm
14. If you are working on 1996 or 1997 2WD or 4WD models, disconnect the wiring connectors from the solenoids (solenoid valves).
15. On 4WD models, remove the bolt and clamp, then carefully pry with a large screwdriver and remove all eight oil pipes.
16. On 4WD models, unscrew the bolts securing the wiring connector and release the clamp of the small oil tube, then carefully press and pull out the tube (see Fig. 4.16).
Rice. 4.16. On 4IIUD models, remove these two bolts and carefully pry and pull out the small oil tube; try not to damage it
And the bolt is 39 mm.
B. bolt. 43. mm
17. Unscrew the bolts securing the hydraulic valve block (see Fig. 4.17a-c).
Rice. 4.17a. Hydraulic Valve Block Bolts - 1996 and 1997 2WD Models
And the bolt is 20 mm.
B. bolt. 30.mm.
C. bolt. 55. mm
Rice. 4.17, b. Hydraulic valve block mounting bolts - 2UU0 models 1998-2000
And the bolt is 20 mm.
B. bolt. 50.mm.
With bolt 50 mm
Rice. 4.17, c. Hydraulic valve block mounting bolts - 1996-2000 4W0 models
And the bolt is 22 mm.
V. bopt. 32.mm.
With bolt 55 mm
Disconnect the valve block from the gearbox and disconnect the throttle position cable from the locking cam on the valve block body (see Fig. 4.17d).
Rice. 4.17, g. After the hydraulic valve block is removed from the automatic transmission, the throttle valve control cable can be released from the cam.
18. Install the throttle position cable in the reverse order of removing it. Make sure that the hydraulic valve block mounting bolts and associated fasteners are tightened to the specified torques. Information
O. for tightening torques of the automatic transmission pan mounting bolts, as well as the prescribed type and volume of transmission fluid for filling the automatic transmission, see Chapter 1A or 1B.
19. If you are installing a new throttle position cable, the stopper on the cable must be crimped as follows:
A). Bend the upper part of the cable (without attaching it to the throttle body) with a radius of approximately 20 cm.
b). Pull the cable out of the sheath until you feel slight resistance. Install the cable stopper at a distance of 0.8 - 7.5 mm from the end of the cable sheath, then crimp the stopper onto the cable.
Rice. 4.19. Adjusting the position of the throttle cable stopper
20. Connect the cable to the throttle body and bracket, then adjust it as described in steps 4 and 5.
Incorrect throttle cable adjustment
If the overtightened cable prevents the contacts from closing, then the ECU will never know that the driver has released the gas pedal all the way and will control the engine in partial load mode rather than idling.
Lacetti ECU sensor diagram
For several years now, either dying down or flaring up again with renewed vigor, the topic of tensioning the Lacetti gas pedal cable has been circulating on the Internet. Its essence is that if you tighten the cable, the car stops twitching when changing gears, etc.
Having read this, inexperienced car enthusiasts immediately run to pull the cable tighter. They tighten it and problems begin with engine speed, the position of the throttle lock at idle, and the like.
The cable tension must be strictly monitored. But this must be done correctly and without fanaticism.
The effect of the disappearance of twitching is comparable to the effect of a clean car. This is when you wash it and it immediately starts driving better.
But it’s true that the engine becomes more responsive to the gas pedal and, thus, driving comfort increases.
Well, let's tighten the cable.
Adjusting the throttle cable for Mitsubishi Lancer 9
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Adjusting the Lacetti throttle cable
The only tool you need is a 10mm socket wrench to remove the engine trim. I don’t think there’s any need to tell you how to remove it.
Here we see such a picture
To tighten the throttle control cable, you need to remove this clamp
It can be easily removed with bare hands
After this, pull the cable casing to the right until the sagging of the cable becomes minimal and insert the lock back. In this case, the cable was stretched four notches. The arrow shows its previous position
If the cable is adjusted correctly, then when you press the gas pedal, the throttle should open completely, and when released, it should close completely. Moreover, there must be a gap in this place for the smooth operation of the IAC, since on the Lacetti 1.4 and 1.6, the IAC directly controls the throttle valve.
Attention! This gap is not constant and depends on whether the ignition is on or off, as well as on the temperature of the coolant when the ignition is on or the engine is running! Therefore, there is no need to adjust this gap!
And you need to make sure that when you release the gas pedal, the shoulder at the back rests against its stop. Then the gap will be normal.
Therefore, it is necessary to check the adjustment not by the sag of the cable, but by the fit of the collar! Do not pull on the cable to remove any slack! Make sure that the shoulder rests against its stop and then give the pedals 2-3 mm of free play. Free movement must be a must!!! This way you will eliminate the influence of the cable on the operation of the IAC!
We start the engine and check the operation of the drive and watch the idle speed. They should remain at the same level. If they have increased, it means the cable is overtightened.
You can also look at the adequate response of opening/closing the damper in the Chevrolet Explorer program
How to adjust the automatic transmission cable?
Adjusting the automatic transmission cable
If you are a fan of an aggressive driving style, then the cable should be tightened. If you drive smoothly and measuredly, the cable tension is weakened.
This way we will achieve uniform gear shifting and reduce fuel consumption. Optimal behavior of the car on the road is achieved experimentally, by tensioning and loosening the cable.
After all, the service life of the box is different for everyone, and over time the cable tends to stretch.
We prepare the car. We warm up the engine, make sure that the automatic transmission cable is secured at three points: on the bracket above the throttle lever, on the bracket to the left of the lever, on the pipe.
We press the gas pedal. In this case, the throttle lever should turn without any remaining free play. Let's release the pedal. The lever returns all the way to its original position. If we detect free play of the lever, then we adjust the cable using the locknuts on the bracket. When we move the cable along the bracket to the left, we tighten it. If it's to the right, we weaken it.
For the first adjustment, let's try to tighten the cable slightly, just one turn of the nut. After which you should drive the car a little and see how the car behaves. If you are not satisfied with the result of something in the operation of the automatic transmission, continue the adjustment.
How do we check the operation of the box?
We switch gears from low to high and vice versa. If switching occurs with jolts when you lightly press the gas pedal, the cable has been pulled. If there is slippage or double jerks, the cable is weakened.
Now let's try to go into kick-down. In this case, the speed should be constant, around 70 km/h, with the pedal released. If we feel a pause and a smooth jerk during the transition to kick-down, then the cable is weakened.
If the jerk is sharp and there is no pause, the cable is too tight.
Advice: it is most convenient to carry out adjustments in tandem with an assistant. The car owner presses the pedal, and the assistant carries out all the manipulations with loosening and tightening the nuts. After all, everyone has their own pressure on the pedal. Some people press it, others just lightly touch it. Hence the different adjustments.
When manipulating the cable, it would be nice to have an automatic transmission repair manual on hand. The process of adjusting the cable in most of them is described in sufficient detail. But what adjustments you personally and your car need are decided directly by the car owner, based on the characteristics of the car’s operation.
How to replace the throttle cable and some drive parts on a VAZ 2108-VAZ 21099?
Replacing the throttle cable:
1) At the beginning of the operation, by hand or with a screwdriver, slide the silicone protective cap along the throttle cable.
2) Next, using two wrenches, loosen both nuts that secure the cable sheath to the bracket.
3) After the nuts are loosened, remove the cable from the slot located in the bracket.
4) Next, moving to the throttle valve itself, disconnect the tip of the cable from its sector by hand.
