If the timing belt slips, how will the engine work?


Causes of belt and timing chain jumping

The main reasons for timing belt skipping are:

  • natural wear of the belt during operation;
  • abrasion of teeth as a result of misalignment of the rollers;
  • increased resistance to movement in the event of a malfunction in the gas distribution system;
  • foreign objects getting into the belt drive;
  • pulley wear;
  • stretching of a low-quality belt;
  • overheating of the power unit;
  • Tensioner malfunction.

Jumping of chain links (links) is less likely, but the consequences of such a malfunction are more serious. Causes of chain jumping:

  • stretching during operation;
  • chain damper malfunction;
  • natural chain wear;
  • temporary jamming of the gas distribution mechanism;
  • overheating of the power unit;
  • foreign objects entering the area of ​​chain movement.

Breakage of a new timing belt: common causes

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Symptoms of malfunction

The main signs that the belt or chain has slipped:

  • change in throttle response, power, engine torque;
  • increase in the toxicity of exhaust gases, their shade;
  • problems when starting the engine;
  • a “check engine” error message appears on the dashboard;
  • the occurrence of extraneous noise of a non-metallic (for belt drive) and mechanical nature (for both chain and belt drives).

If such signs appear, you should stop driving (start the engine), have the engine diagnosed, or contact a mechanic.

Measures to prevent serious consequences of a malfunction

If possible symptoms of belt or chain jumping occur, computer diagnostics should be performed. The malfunction can be determined by the ignition angle being too large. In static mode, diagnostics may not show an engine error, since the electronic components remain operational.

It is necessary to measure parameters in dynamic mode. At the same time, it is dangerous, especially if more than one tooth has slipped through. When an engine is running in which the timing belt has slipped, mechanical damage to individual components is likely.

You can determine the malfunction visually. This requires access to the marks and belt drive. Older gasoline cars use a strobe light as a control device.

Changes in engine performance after jumping

Typically, timing belt or chain jumping occurs as a result of the simultaneous action of several factors, for example, stretching, increased load during engine starting or driving. In this case, skipping can occur through the gears (pulleys) of both the crankshaft and the camshaft pulley. After this, the ignition shifts towards late.

The amount of this displacement in angular units depends on the number of timing belt teeth or chain links. A shift of the timing belt by one tooth corresponds to a change in the ignition angle by an amount equal to the ratio of 360 angular degrees/number of teeth. For example, if the number of teeth is 100, then the offset will be about 3.6 degrees.

A delay in the engine ignition angle by this amount often does not exceed the operating parameters of the engine.

When displaced by one tooth (link), the engine usually works. The following changes are observed:

  • increased fuel consumption;
  • difficulty starting the engine;
  • increased toxicity of exhaust gases;
  • reduction in engine response.

In the case when the belt has slipped by more than a tooth, the change in the ignition angle is more than 5 angular degrees. This is a critical value. In modern cars, the control unit usually turns off the engine to prevent serious mechanical damage, especially in engines where the pistons “meet” the valves in such a situation. Experienced drivers, when choosing or purchasing a car, are specifically interested in whether pistons and valves are found in a given model of engine installed in the car.

When a belt (chain) jumps over two or more teeth (links), the following are observed:

  • misfires;
  • uneven engine operation, the engine naturally “sausages”;
  • engine start failure;
  • extraneous sounds when the power unit is operating.

Operating a car in such a situation is extremely dangerous.

Repair cost

The average price for replacing a belt and roller in car services ranges from one to three thousand rubles. The price range is due to the fact that replacing parts on foreign cars costs approximately 2–3 times more than on domestic cars.

If it turns out that you also need to change the engine water cooling pump and the crankshaft oil seal, then the price will increase by another 1 - 1.5 thousand rubles.

Although there is a huge selection of products on the market at different price levels, you should only choose brands recommended by the manufacturer or their high-quality analogues. Using cheap parts can lead to serious damage and expensive repairs.

For example, if the valves are bent as a result of a belt slipping, then almost the entire cylinder head will have to be replaced. Even if the repair is carried out by yourself, the cost of replacing valves, pump, belt, filling oil and antifreeze, and other parts will be at least 10,000 rubles.

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Troubleshooting and its possible consequences

A belt that has jumped must be replaced. The chain can sometimes be repaired. Before installing the belt, you should check the serviceability of all components and parts that may be damaged as a result of jumping. Sometimes this requires dismantling the cylinder head.

Remember! A malfunction is easier to prevent than to fix. Change the belt, rollers and tensioner in a timely manner.

Source

If the timing belt has jumped or broken | Motorist's benefit

The timing belt on a car engine ensures synchronization of the crankshaft with the timing shaft (camshaft). On engines with a timing belt, breaking it or slipping even one tooth can lead to serious problems, which in the future may lead to a major overhaul of the engine.

Signs of a timing belt that has jumped on the pulley

If the timing belt has jumped, the symptoms may be as follows:

    Unstable motor operation

There may be several reasons why the timing belt may jump. Firstly, low tension, and secondly, the presence of oil on the camshaft or crankshaft pulley can cause the belt to slip. Well, and most importantly, a broken timing belt can ultimately lead to damage to the valves of the gas distribution mechanism and internal elements of the internal combustion engine (pistons, connecting rods, etc.)

Broken timing belt while driving

Causes of timing belt breakage

Why does the timing belt break? There may be several reasons for this, and one of the main ones is its wear and tear. Therefore, the manufacturer strongly recommends replacing the timing belt within the vehicle mileage interval specified by the regulations. Next, it is worth noting that the tension roller is damaged or weakened, which can undoubtedly cause the belt to break or slip. The cause of the break may also be a jammed water pump pulley. If the engine has two camshafts, then the failure of one can also be a consequence of a broken timing belt, but in this case the consequences can be completely different, more disappointing.

How to determine that a car's timing belt has jumped

Like any other car component or part, the timing belt performs certain functions. It is entrusted with a significant option, and due to the convincingness of its functioning, the operational duration and security of the automotive power plant as a whole is determined.

Jumping or slipping of the timing belt is a fairly common phenomenon familiar to many motorists. The belt slips one tooth or several. We are talking about the teeth of the crankshaft or camshaft flywheel. It is clear that such a situation can lead to serious problems.

Consequences of timing belt breakage and likely costs

The consequences of a break depend on the type of engine, the presence of grooves on the pistons, the quality of the parts and the reasons for the timing belt break.

The most common consequences:

  • Buying and replacing a belt
  • Engine repair.

Read more about possible engine problems

  • Overhaul of the entire engine.
  • The need to repair the entire gas distribution mechanism. The most significant problem is bent engine valves that cannot be repaired. This problem most often affects cars in which the combustion chamber is reduced or the pistons do not have recesses. In order to accurately determine the level of damage, you need to take the car to specialists.
  • Sections of the piston system are deformed. Such damage most often occurs in Japanese cars. When the blade breaks at high speed, the bushing breaks and the pistons are damaged by the fragments. The consequences are an expensive replacement of all parts.

Diesel engines suffer serious consequences after the fabric breaks.

Car owners will need to replace a number of main parts of the gas distribution mechanism:

  • Camshaft.
  • Cylinder head.
  • Connecting rods.
  • Valves.

Costs for eliminating the results of timing belt rupture

The average cost of a valve is about one thousand rubles (excluding replacement). To calculate the total cost, you need to take into account the number of valves that need to be replaced. If there are sixteen of them, the total cost will be high.

Additionally you need to buy small parts:

  • Timing belt or complete timing gear kit with all bearings.
  • Cylinder head gaskets and manifolds.
  • Valve plugs.
  • Fasteners.
  • Pump (all belt manufacturers recommend changing the pump at the same time as the timing belt)

If the driver carries out car repairs himself, he will also need various tools

Signs of a jump

You should be able to distinguish the following signs, which, as a rule, indicate an obvious leap.

  1. If the car engine is unstable.
  2. The power unit often stalls.
  3. The engine loses power and pulls poorly.
  4. Problems with starting, almost one hundred percent.
  5. Power plant jamming.

The most popular scenario for a jump is this: the power plant continues to function, but interruptions are noticeable. This may indicate that the belt has not jumped completely, but by more than two teeth.

How to determine if a chain drive is faulty

Unlike the timing belt drive, which is located outside the engine, the chain with gears is located inside the power unit and is completely hidden from view. On the one hand, this is a plus: the mechanism makes less noise and is generously lubricated with engine oil, which increases its service life. On the other hand, without removing the valve cover it is impossible to visually assess the technical condition of the unit.

The first sign of a chain drive problem is a rumbling sound coming from under the cover when the power unit is operating. The rumble of a weakened chain cannot be confused with anything; it is heard from the side where the gas distribution mechanism is located.

Loosening with a gap of up to 1 cm allows the chain to jump when starting the engine

Having heard such a sound, the car owner should check the condition of the drive so as not to encounter big troubles associated with engine repair. There are 2 ways: immediately go for diagnostics to the nearest car service center, or remove the valve cover yourself and make sure that the section of the chain near the camshaft gear is loose. Worsening tension is caused by the following reasons:

  • due to stretching to such a length that the tensioning device is unable to pick up the slack;
  • due to a faulty tensioner;
  • the damping plate is worn out or torn;
  • Due to the high mileage of the car, all the parts of the mechanism have worn out - the chain, gears, tensioner and damper.

If an old-style mechanical tensioning device is installed in the car engine, then when the described symptoms appear, the first action is to tighten the chain with its help. To do this, simply loosen the outer nut holding the plunger spring and manually turn the crankshaft 1-2 turns. After which the nut is tightened again.

Causes and consequences

As a rule, a timing belt jump does not immediately lead to extreme problems, but the engine begins to function intermittently or does not start. The explanation is simple: the gas protection phases are incorrect, the general cycle of fuel supply and cylinder cleaning is disrupted.

The reason for timing belt jumping is often due to the fact that a little oil or coolant drips onto the rubber material of the timing element. The pump is leaking, the cuff of any shaft is malfunctioning - in a word, anything related to oil or liquids can lead to this.

Note. So, on cars with front-wheel drive (our “eights”, “nines”), a leaking oil pressure regulator becomes a factor in the entry of lubricating fluid. It is located above the timing belt.

In general, on VAZs, belt jumping leads to the following sad consequences:

  • On versions with 1.1-liter and 1.3-liter engines, the valves collide with the pistons, which inevitably leads to tragic accidental consequences.
  • On 1.5-liter and 1.6-liter engines, the jump will also not bring anything pleasant.

It is unnecessary to say that the condition of the belt needs to be given periodic attention. Most often, you should not miss fresh and suspicious oil stains that form in the area of ​​the protective cover of the rubber component of the timing belt. Even the smallest amount of lubricant gives evidence that there is a problem.

Now consider this situation: signs of a jump are not noticed, but the power plant behaves extremely unpredictably. For example, the engine practically does not develop speed, starts very poorly and often stalls. In this case, the cover of the entire mechanism will need to be opened, and then make sure that the marks are set correctly. We must remember that a shift of even 1 risk tooth can worsen the performance of the power unit, negatively affect startup, etc.

Note. This is especially true for diesel cars, the power plant of which is incredibly sensitive to improper belt installation.

After the motorist is convinced that the marks are set correctly, the installation of the belt itself begins.

  • You have to be extremely careful here. It is important to try to install the timing element from an open place, giving it the previous tension and thus moving it further.
  • All teeth of the rubber timing part must fit evenly into all recesses of the flywheel.
  • If this cannot be done, you must move the camshaft or crankshaft with your own hands so that the tooth of the rubber part fits clearly into the recess.
  • At the end, the coincidence of the marks is again checked, and the crankshaft is turned two turns.

Causes

The timing belt is an important element of the car, so it needs to be serviced promptly. The reasons that lead to its jump are as follows:

Contact of oil or cooling liquid on the belt surface

As soon as traces of technical fluid appear on the product, the belt should be changed immediately. Otherwise, this can lead to slipping through the teeth, sliding off the pulley, and even breaking.

It is a serious mistake when drivers simply clean the dirty surface and continue to use this product.

Practice shows that if liquid gets on the belt, it is completely absorbed into the rubber. It loses its properties and begins to stretch.

Late replacement

Most timing belt manufacturers recommend changing their products approximately every 60 thousand kilometers. However, this figure may vary up or down, depending on the quality of the product.

Improper use

It happens that a product may jump due to errors during its operation. A common example is a weakened roller or tensioner. When the belt tension weakens, there is a possibility of slipping from the pulley grooves. In the opposite situation, if when installing the belt, it is overtightened, this will lead to its breakage.

Slippage can also occur when one of the pulleys has strong play

Therefore, it is very important to monitor the tension level of all parts of the mechanism.

The labels are set incorrectly

Sometimes the jump is not visible outwardly, but the engine does not start well and immediately stalls. This can happen if the marks were knocked down or incorrectly set initially. A shift of even one tooth can cause problems with the motor. If the engine is diesel, it will not start even if there is an error of one tooth.

It is necessary to replace the timing belt in safe places using special tools.

This photo shows that the intake is offset by one tooth clockwise; this is one of the most common mistakes when replacing a belt. To prevent this from happening, you can use special pulley clamps when replacing the timing belt.

External damage

Over time, various cracks and depressions may appear on the surface of the consumable, and the threads of the product may begin to peel off. With heavy loads on the belt, even the smallest defects will develop quite quickly. Therefore, they cannot be eliminated on your own. All you can do is replace it as soon as possible.

Low quality spare parts

There are very cheap “non-original” belts on sale. But don't be fooled by their price. Often the resource of such a product is only enough for 20 thousand kilometers. This is followed by either stretching or breaking.

Difficult operating conditions

Unlike a chain, a belt is very sensitive to high and low temperatures, high humidity and other weather conditions. They affect premature wear of the product. Therefore, more frequent replacement may be required.

How to correctly set marks during the process of replacing/installing a belt on a “nine”

The timing belt on cars with front-wheel drive is carried out using a toothed belt. Each successive replacement of the AvtoVAZ belt is recommended after 65,000 miles. In addition to replacing the element itself, it is also recommended to change the roller.

The algorithm for replacing the timing belt is as follows:

  • First of all, a new belt and roller are purchased (it is advisable that both elements are recommended by the car manufacturer);
  • The car is placed on a level surface;
  • The battery is de-energized (due to the exception of a short circuit during the work process);
  • The car is secured with special anti-rollback stops;
  • The protective cover is removed from the timing system;
  • The power unit is set according to the marks.

It is important to be able to set the marks so that in the front part of the engine the mark on the camshaft wheel coincides with the upper boss on the belt cover.

As for the second mark, it is connected to the clutch cover hatch. It is located under the distributor. This hatch is protected by a special rubber plug, which must be pulled out. And if the marks are set correctly, you should check the mark on the hatch: if in the triangle of the hatch you can see a mark that coincides with the end of the flywheel, then everything is correct.

The belt replacement procedure continues:

  • The right wheel of the VAZ is dismantled (before this, a reliable support must be placed under the car body, for example, an empty 20-liter container for fuel on the edge);
  • The protective type belly is disassembled to gain access to the shaft wheel and belt, respectively;
  • The tension of the generator belt is weakened by moving it in the direction of the BC;
  • The belt is dismantled;
  • The bolt securing the pulley is unscrewed using special tools (mount, head, etc.).

Advice. During the work, in order to securely fix the flywheel from spinning, it is recommended to insert a strong metal rod (screwdriver, pry bar) between its teeth.

  • After this, you can completely unscrew the wheel bolt and then remove the crankshaft pulley.

Note. The crankshaft pulley (wheel) cannot be completely removed. He is left hanging.

  • The tension roller clamps are loosened.
  • The timing belt is removed along with the roller.
  • A new roller is installed in place, and a new timing belt is installed.

Installing a timing belt is a rather difficult task. First of all, it is recommended to try to insert the belt on the right side of the “branch”.

Then, as soon as the belt is in place, you should tighten it with the tension roller step, and then fix it in this position.

Recommendation. A properly fitted rubber timing gear element can be checked this way: try to turn it crosswise by 90 degrees with your hand (if it turns, it means it is not too tight).

At the final stage of work, check the identity of the marks again. For example, while the crankshaft flywheel is removed, you can additionally diagnose the mark on the crankshaft by comparing the mark on the shaft sprocket and the cutout on the oil pump boss. If the marks are not in place, you will have to repeat the installation again. This is done until the marks match. After this, the crankshaft is turned two turns, and compatibility is re-diagnosed. If the marks match, you need to proceed to assembly.

After everything is assembled, the power unit starts. If a characteristic hum appears, which should not be there, this clearly indicates that the belt is overtightened. You will have to re-adjust.

After closing the belt with the protective cover, it is recommended to check the belt for snagging, and the power unit for clean operation. If knocking and noise does not disappear, it is recommended to install the cover with bolts, thereby tightening it into the desired position.

Symptoms of a belt that has jumped one tooth

The timing belt has an important function in the operation of the vehicle's power plant. But like any part, it can periodically malfunction. The situation when the timing belt has jumped is familiar to many car enthusiasts. It may jump one or more teeth on the pulley. This may cause vehicle damage.

There are six main signs that the timing belt has jumped.

  1. The car engine is unstable.
  2. The engine constantly stalls.
  3. Noticeable loss of engine power and thrust.
  4. The engine starts with problems or does not start at all.
  5. The power plant is stuck.
  6. The sound of the engine becomes louder - a metallic knock appears.

Most often, it happens that the product jumps one tooth, and because of this, the engine continues to operate, but increases fuel consumption, and there are also interruptions in operation and starting.

If you suspect that several teeth have jumped, you should not restart the engine. In the worst case, this can cause the valves to bend.

The timing belt is an important element of the car, so it needs to be serviced promptly. The reasons that lead to its jump are as follows:

As soon as traces of technical fluid appear on the product, the belt should be changed immediately. Otherwise, this can lead to slipping through the teeth, sliding off the pulley, and even breaking.

It is a serious mistake when drivers simply clean the dirty surface and continue to use this product.

Practice shows that if liquid gets on the belt, it is completely absorbed into the rubber. It loses its properties and begins to stretch.

Most timing belt manufacturers recommend changing their products approximately every 60 thousand kilometers. However, this figure may vary up or down, depending on the quality of the product.

It happens that a product may jump due to errors during its operation. A common example is a weakened roller or tensioner. When the belt tension weakens, there is a possibility of slipping from the pulley grooves. In the opposite situation, if when installing the belt, it is overtightened, this will lead to its breakage.

Slippage can also occur when one of the pulleys has strong play. Therefore, it is very important to monitor the tension level of all parts of the mechanism.

Sometimes the jump is not visible outwardly, but the engine does not start well and immediately stalls. This can happen if the marks were knocked down or incorrectly set initially. A shift of even one tooth can cause problems with the motor. If the engine is diesel, it will not start even if there is an error of one tooth.

It is necessary to replace the timing belt in safe places using special tools.

This photo shows that the intake is offset by one tooth clockwise; this is one of the most common mistakes when replacing a belt. To prevent this from happening, you can use special pulley clamps when replacing the timing belt.

Over time, various cracks and depressions may appear on the surface of the consumable, and the threads of the product may begin to peel off. With heavy loads on the belt, even the smallest defects will develop quite quickly. Therefore, they cannot be eliminated on your own. All you can do is replace it as soon as possible.

There are very cheap “non-original” belts on sale. But don't be fooled by their price. Often the resource of such a product is only enough for 20 thousand kilometers. This is followed by either stretching or breaking.

Unlike a chain, a belt is very sensitive to high and low temperatures, high humidity and other weather conditions. They affect premature wear of the product. Therefore, more frequent replacement may be required.

The consequences of the timing belt jumping several teeth can be different - from replacing the timing belt itself to repairing the car’s gas distribution mechanism.

The amount of damage depends on whether the engine has recesses for valves in the pistons or not.

A jump can occur while the valves are being lowered to inject fuel or release gases. The pistons are still moving and can hit the valves hard. This will lead to bending of the latter. This situation is similar to a broken timing belt. You can read more about which engines this happens on in this article.

To avoid this situation, it is recommended to do a timely inspection and, if necessary, change the consumable.

The average price for replacing a belt and roller in car services ranges from one to three thousand rubles. The price range is due to the fact that replacing parts on foreign cars costs approximately 2–3 times more than on domestic cars.

If it turns out that you also need to change the engine water cooling pump and the crankshaft oil seal, then the price will increase by another 1 - 1.5 thousand rubles.

Although there is a huge selection of products on the market at different price levels, you should only choose brands recommended by the manufacturer or their high-quality analogues. Using cheap parts can lead to serious damage and expensive repairs.

For example, if the valves are bent as a result of a belt slipping, then almost the entire cylinder head will have to be replaced. Even if the repair is carried out by yourself, the cost of replacing valves, pump, belt, filling oil and antifreeze, and other parts will be at least 10,000 rubles.

source

In internal combustion engines, a malfunction occurs when the timing belt teeth or chain links jump to one or more positions. In such a situation, the parameters of the power unit change significantly.

This can lead to serious consequences. How to determine the presence of such a malfunction, how to prevent it, what to do to fix the problem?

The main reasons for timing belt skipping are:

  • natural wear of the belt during operation;
  • abrasion of teeth as a result of misalignment of the rollers;
  • increased resistance to movement in the event of a malfunction in the gas distribution system;
  • foreign objects getting into the belt drive;
  • pulley wear;
  • stretching of a low-quality belt;
  • overheating of the power unit;
  • Tensioner malfunction.

Jumping of chain links (links) is less likely, but the consequences of such a malfunction are more serious. Causes of chain jumping:

  • stretching during operation;
  • chain damper malfunction;
  • natural chain wear;
  • temporary jamming of the gas distribution mechanism;
  • overheating of the power unit;
  • foreign objects entering the area of ​​chain movement.

The main signs that the belt or chain has slipped:

  • change in throttle response, power, engine torque;
  • increase in the toxicity of exhaust gases, their shade;
  • problems when starting the engine;
  • a “check engine” error message appears on the dashboard;
  • the occurrence of extraneous noise of a non-metallic (for belt drive) and mechanical nature (for both chain and belt drives).

If such signs appear, you should stop driving (start the engine), have the engine diagnosed, or contact a mechanic.

Typically, timing belt or chain jumping occurs as a result of the simultaneous action of several factors, for example, stretching, increased load during engine starting or driving. In this case, skipping can occur through the gears (pulleys) of both the crankshaft and the camshaft pulley. After this, the ignition shifts towards late.

The amount of this displacement in angular units depends on the number of timing belt teeth or chain links. A shift of the timing belt by one tooth corresponds to a change in the ignition angle by an amount equal to the ratio of 360 angular degrees/number of teeth. For example, if the number of teeth is 100, then the offset will be about 3.6 degrees.

A delay in the engine ignition angle by this amount often does not exceed the operating parameters of the engine.

When displaced by one tooth (link), the engine usually works. The following changes are observed:

  • increased fuel consumption;
  • difficulty starting the engine;
  • increased toxicity of exhaust gases;
  • reduction in engine response.

In the case when the belt has slipped by more than a tooth, the change in the ignition angle is more than 5 angular degrees. This is a critical value. In modern cars, the control unit usually turns off the engine to prevent serious mechanical damage, especially in engines where the pistons “meet” the valves in such a situation. Experienced drivers, when choosing or purchasing a car, are specifically interested in whether pistons and valves are found in a given model of engine installed in the car.

When a belt (chain) jumps over two or more teeth (links), the following are observed:

  • misfires;
  • uneven engine operation, the engine naturally “sausages”;
  • engine start failure;
  • extraneous sounds when the power unit is operating.

Operating a car in such a situation is extremely dangerous.

The consequences of skipping belt teeth or chain links can be:

  • damage to the gas distribution mechanism;
  • destruction of valves, piston group;
  • engine wedge;
  • compression failure in one or more cylinders;
  • reduction in the consumer characteristics of the car (engine power, torque, environmental characteristics);
  • further belt breakage if the car is operated with a malfunction.

If possible symptoms of belt or chain jumping occur, computer diagnostics should be performed. The malfunction can be determined by the ignition angle being too large. In static mode, diagnostics may not show an engine error, since the electronic components remain operational.

It is necessary to measure parameters in dynamic mode. At the same time, it is dangerous, especially if more than one tooth has slipped through. When an engine is running in which the timing belt has slipped, mechanical damage to individual components is likely.

You can determine the malfunction visually. This requires access to the marks and belt drive. Older gasoline cars use a strobe light as a control device.

A belt that has jumped must be replaced. The chain can sometimes be repaired. Before installing the belt, you should check the serviceability of all components and parts that may be damaged as a result of jumping. Sometimes this requires dismantling the cylinder head.

Remember! A malfunction is easier to prevent than to fix. Change the belt, rollers and tensioner in a timely manner.

source

Like any other car component or part, the timing belt performs certain functions. It is entrusted with a significant option, and due to the convincingness of its functioning, the operational duration and security of the automotive power plant as a whole is determined.

Jumping or slipping of the timing belt is a fairly common phenomenon familiar to many motorists. The belt slips one tooth or several. We are talking about the teeth of the crankshaft or camshaft flywheel. It is clear that such a situation can lead to serious problems.


This is how a timing belt works.
The timing belt is an important element of the car, so it needs to be serviced promptly. The reasons that lead to its jump are the following:

  1. Contact of oil or cooling liquid on the belt surface
  2. Improper use
  3. Late replacement
  4. External damage
  5. Incorrectly placed labels
  6. Difficult operating conditions
  7. Low quality spare parts

Of course, these are not all cases due to which the timing belt breaks or jumps. But this can be understood by the following signs.

In internal combustion engines that use a timing belt in the timing drive, there is always the danger of it jumping over one or more teeth.

If the timing belt has jumped, the signs of this, depending on the design of the engine, may be the following:

  1. Unstable engine operation
  2. The engine stalls
  3. Power Loss
  4. Poor startup or inability to start at all
  5. Engine wedge

As a rule, if the timing belt jumps within two teeth, the engine will continue to run, but with visible interruptions. When the belt jumps more than two teeth, the consequences can be very different.

Using front-wheel drive vases as an example, the following happens:

  • 1.1 and 1.3 liter engines there will be a meeting of valves with pistons with all the ensuing consequences;
  • 1.5 and 1.6 liter engines the valves remain intact, but the engine begins to behave inappropriately.
  • on some models of modern engines, the valves remain intact, but the rocker breaks, which makes subsequent repairs cheaper.

A similar malfunction, such as a timing belt that has jumped, is usually caused by either an oil leak that has reached the belt teeth, an antifreeze leak, a faulty tension roller, or extreme belt wear.

As a rule, a timing belt jump does not immediately lead to extreme problems, but the engine begins to function intermittently or does not start. The explanation is simple: the gas protection phases are incorrect, the general cycle of fuel supply and cylinder cleaning is disrupted.


Timing belt assembly with rollers

The reason for timing belt jumping is often due to the fact that a little oil or coolant drips onto the rubber material of the timing element. The pump is leaking, the cuff of any shaft is malfunctioning - in a word, anything related to oil or liquids can lead to this. Therefore, if you find a malfunction, you must do the following:

  1. When inspecting the engine, oil leaks will be visible on the timing belt cover, so when opening the hood to check the oil level, you should always pay attention to the cleanliness of this cover.
  2. If the belt cover has no visible traces of oil, and the engine operation has changed dramatically, you need to remove the cover and check the alignment of the marks and the tension of the timing belt.
  3. When traces of oil are found, it is necessary to remove the cover and carefully inspect the belt and find the location of the oil leak. This could be crankshaft or camshaft seals, a leaking pump, or, for example, a leaking oil pressure sensor on VAZ 2108-09 engines and their families. The sensor is located just above the belt cover (top left) and when it is squeezed out, the oil flows just under the belt cover.
  4. In such a situation, it is necessary to replace the failed parts and if the timing belt is in oil, then replace the belt as well.
  5. After removing the timing belt, it is necessary to clean all parts from traces of oil.
  6. When replacing a belt, try to set the marks as accurately as possible, since a belt that is “knocked down” by one tooth will certainly affect the operation of the engine and its starting. This especially applies to diesel engines, which are the most demanding in terms of matching valve timing.
  7. If the design does not provide an automatic roller tensioner, then it is necessary to check the belt tension.

At the final stage of work, check the identity of the marks again. For example, while the crankshaft flywheel is removed, you can additionally diagnose the mark on the crankshaft by comparing the mark on the shaft sprocket and the cutout on the oil pump boss. If the marks are not in place, you will have to repeat the installation again. This is done until the marks match. After this, the crankshaft is turned two turns, and compatibility is re-diagnosed. If the marks match, you need to proceed to assembly.

After everything is assembled, the power unit starts. If a characteristic hum appears, which should not be there, this clearly indicates that the belt is overtightened. You will have to re-adjust.


Correctly marking the timing belt

After closing the belt with the protective cover, it is recommended to check the belt for snagging, and the power unit for clean operation. If knocking and noise does not disappear, it is recommended to install the cover with bolts, thereby tightening it into the desired position.

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Number of guests with me:

I looked at all the marks on the timing belt, everything is in order except for one on the exhaust shaft with one tooth on the rear. what's wrong with this?

This is fraught with installation of the timing belt according to the marks.

It will work a little unevenly, and by the way, all the marks do not clearly hit zero

“Driving begins for me where I control the car with the gas pedal instead of the steering wheel. Everything else is just work.” Waltre Röhrl

“It’s one thing to know how to change a spare part on your car, and quite another thing to know how all these parts work together” “Born to race”

they don’t fight about 0 - it happens!

won't the valves be over-opened? Will the compression be lost?

The manual says that the marks should coincide by no more than one tooth

no big deal. Afterwards the belt needs to be installed according to the marks.

We jumped by 3 prongs with one friend... the afta was so weak that they were afraid to approach it. I had to change everything

I don't feel sick. works smoothly.

You need to do it the same way as at the factory, put everything clearly according to the marks. you need to see things through to the end.

It is better to put the belt in the marks for correct engine operation

this is best and correct!

It’s clear what’s needed. I just decided to consult with you. In general, it got into the belt because the turbo pressure began to inflate somehow strangely. then it blows and then drops to o.5 and then back to 1. and so on constantly

Hello everyone, Happy New Year everyone!) I didn’t create a new topic because... This one came up with a search. This thing happened: -20 -25C on the street, the car sat for a day, started up with half a turn, ran for a minute and died. The intake camshaft gear (which is the top one on the battery) has slipped. We removed the timing belt, set it to the marks - everything is fine) Tell me, who knows how to avoid this in the future? In addition, how to warm up at night.. Luli-muli Syntoil oil 5w50. Impreza GDA '06 PS: at the same time we changed the standard 10mm oil pump to a standard 11mm one. The pressure at XX, when warmed up, increased from 1.6 to 2.2 (this is true, for statistics)

When I changed the entire timing belt set with all the rollers and pump, I set everything to the marks. But after I pulled out the tension roller pin, the intake shaft gear moved by 1 tooth. Well, everything has been working smoothly for almost a whole year.

Well, has no one encountered this? I really don’t want to carry a car on a tow truck in the morning.

source

Today I went to change the pump - wow. A particular surprise for me was that the pump, despite two different parts, is attached not with 10 bolts, but with hex bolts - well, the store was not far away. took a walk.

In general, the tags seem to have combined everything as it should. I put the belt on, tightened it - everything is fine.

so I went for a ride. After about 50 km I heard a slight “zilch” under the hood (I was driving without music). I slowed down, got out, opened the inspection hatch of the timing belt - it seemed to be turning as it should.

so after this “zilch” when starting off, the car seems to slow down a little, I’ll give it some gas and then everything is as it should be. only this “zilch” seemed to become permanent. those. as if it’s not something rustling, but somewhere nearby.

and also! the sound of the engine became vaguely similar to the sound of a gazelle.

tell me what's wrong. or is everything okay?

z.y. uhhh. Now I can change the timing belt in 15 minutes. _________________ multitronics VG1031GPL omega electro SAUO

to come back to the beginning

Explain in more detail please _________________ multitronics VG1031GPL omega electro SAUO

to come back to the beginning

not necessary. It is enough to set the TDC of the first piston.

to come back to the beginning

you can unscrew the spark plugs. it will be easier.


https://www.autoprospect.ru/vaz/2110-zhiguli/4-6-zamena-remnya-privoda-grm-na-dvigatele-vaz-2112.html

to come back to the beginning

But only for this pulley? Or is it possible for the top two?

to come back to the beginning

You'll break the belt. _________________ The machine should serve man, not man the machine!

to come back to the beginning

You'll break the belt.

even for one top one, the belt did not break. but it is not advisable to do this.

to come back to the beginning

You'll break the belt.

Is it possible to crawl up there without removing the wheels and mudguard?

to come back to the beginning

A little theory

Chain drives transmit rotational force from the crankshaft to the camshaft, which is located in the cylinder head of overhead valve engines.

Chains are divided into 2 categories. They can be toothed or roller. Roller mechanisms, unlike gear ones, are not so widespread. Therefore, it is gear systems that are most often found on cars with a timing belt, which include a chain drive.

Gear units are distinguished by their high smoothness, they are quite reliable, and produce an insignificant level of noise during the operation of the internal combustion engine. In terms of their characteristics, the use of toothed chains brings them much closer to belt drives. One can argue endlessly about which one is better.

But we won’t dwell on this today.

The chain is tensioned due to the operation of hydraulic tensioners, for which motor oil is used as a working fluid. The lubricant is supplied through the engine lubrication system.

Depending on the number of camshafts, that is, camshafts, the number of tensioners also differs. On cars there are from 1 to 3 units.

The service life of the chain directly depends on what the element is made of, how high quality it is and the degree of effectiveness of the heat treatment performed. Similar requirements are placed on timing sprockets, since they constantly operate together with the chain.

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Do not forget about the influence on the condition of the unit of the engine lubrication system, the quality of the oil itself and timely replacement of the fluid.

In practice, when the part is made of high-quality materials, and the correct tension was carried out as part of the service, plus lubricant was introduced on time, then replacing the chain may be necessary at the same time as replacing the motor itself.

That is, you understand that a stretched chain cannot function for a long time and effectively. If you want to extend the life of this unit, initially take a high-quality chain, adjust its tension correctly and lubricate the drive generously with high-quality oil.

Signs of a Dying Belt

Visual

What is a timing belt and which brand should I choose?

It is believed that a visual inspection will help determine the life of the drive. Fraying, tears, cracks, etc. They can tell you whether the belt will still “run” or break after a few kilometers.

Let's figure it out right away. The belt can not only break. The teeth on it wear out. This is fraught with its “slip” on the camshaft. The valve timing will go wrong, the engine will not only lose its power, but will also have difficulty working. In some cases, pistons and valves may meet. The result of their “union” will be a major overhaul.

So, a visual inspection may not show wear or broken teeth. Some of them may be hidden far from your eyes. Others at this moment will be on the shaft sprockets. Everything looks good, but in reality they are already on the verge of a bummer.

Secondly, not all engines have timing belts within visual reach. Some are hidden by protective covers, which are under the front plate of the motor. Partial disassembly is required to get to them. On most BMW engines, it is necessary to “lower” the power unit in order to reach the timing belt. Having reached it, is there any point in inspecting it? – Since you are already there, it is better to replace it immediately, so as not to deal with nonsense for another 60-100 thousand km.

For example, the Opel Cadet engine belts can be easily seen by opening the hood of the car. But there are very few such models, so one can be skeptical about this sign of timing drive wear.

Best before date

Sorry, what is this, food? There is an opinion that there is an expiration date on the timing belt. Compliance with it guarantees reliable operation for this period only.

Each car manufacturer has regulations for replacing the gas distribution mechanism drive. Only strict adherence to it can give any guarantee, and even then it is not one hundred percent.

This also includes the myth about the inverse relationship between engine power and belt service life. V-shaped monsters with a volume of more than 4 liters can live with their “native” strap for hundreds of thousands of kilometers. And vice versa, low-volume engines, for example VAG engines, do not always live up to 100 thousand km.

Many people recommend changing the belt after 5-6 years of using the car. But if during this period the car has driven 200 thousand, then of course. If the mileage has barely exceeded 30,000, and the car is 7 years old, then why do a replacement operation that is not always cheap if it still “uses” enough time?

Many may argue that this is a rubber product, which dries out over time and loses its mechanical properties. Yes, but if external factors, aggressive liquids, dust, dirt, reagents do not have any negative impact on it, then why should it deteriorate? – This is another myth.

Unlike the cooling system hose, brake and fuel hoses, and suspension silent blocks, which face destructive factors, the timing belt does not experience this. Only in exceptional cases can it begin to “age” faster, but we’ll talk about this below.

Extraneous sounds

This is another sign of an imminent belt break. I am ready to agree with this. From my experience, I note that in 80% of cases, shuffling, cyclic sounds will be a direct sign indicating the need for replacement.

But tensioner rollers and sprockets can make noise. Incorrect operation of attachments, such as a pump, can be echoed. In this case, it is necessary to “open” the front plate or more detailed diagnostics in order to identify the source of the unpleasant noise.

Oil

This is a 100% sign that the timing belt needs to be changed. As mentioned above, the encounter of rubber products with aggressive media, such as oil, leads to a rapid loss of their mechanical properties.

Again, it is not always possible to visually diagnose this. Yes, if there are oil streaks on the front plate in the pulley area, not fogging, then the chance of an oiled belt increases. A leaking crankshaft oil seal will result in oil getting onto the belt.

In cases of Opel Cadet, where the belt is not covered with anything, it can suffer not only from oil deposits, but also from antifreeze, for example. Here we turn to the first sign - a visual examination does wonders for diagnosis.

Used car

This is not just a sign, but a primary necessity. After buying a used car, the first thing you need to do is go to a service center and change the timing belt. Troubleshoot the tensioner, shoes, sprockets, damper, if any, for wear. Often, previous owners did not bother preparing the car for sale. Why change something if you are going to “throw away” your old car.

How to choose a new set of spare parts

Like other automobile spare parts, timing chains are counterfeited by handicraft and Chinese manufacturers, after which they go on sale. Cunning businessmen are constantly coming up with new ways to deceive customers, for example, placing their low-quality products in original packaging from well-known brands originally from Western Europe. To avoid running into a fake spare part when purchasing a part, follow these recommendations:

  • buy the chain from official sales representatives, dealers, or in stores that have a positive reputation among other users;
  • do not try to save money by looking at products from unknown manufacturers;
  • check the part for marks and deflection in a horizontal position;
  • consult a familiar auto mechanic about which brand is best to choose for your car brand;
  • Make a visual inspection of the product for careless workmanship or other signs - burrs, play between links, and so on.

The chain is checked for deflection as follows: take it by one end and hold it flat. The second end should sag no more than 10 mm. If possible, check the hardness of the metal by carefully filing it with a file. The steel in high-quality products is hardened, and therefore is characterized by increased hardness and does not lend itself to filing.

Chain, gears, shoes and tensioner - complete replacement kit

Advice. The main technical characteristics of the chain are its size and number of links, and you need to select the part based on them. If you are in doubt, then do not buy a new spare part without removing the old one with which you can compare it.

If you are updating a chain drive with a significant mileage of the car (150-200 thousand km), then you will have to change all the accompanying elements - gears, tensioner and damper. When the chain has stretched after a run of 50-100 thousand km, it is not necessary to change the gears, but the tensioner must be checked for functionality. Also, don't forget to buy consumables - cover gaskets, O-rings and heat-resistant sealant.

Consequences

All about the alternator belt
The consequences of the timing belt jumping several teeth can be different - from replacing the timing belt itself to repairing the car’s gas distribution mechanism.

The amount of damage depends on whether the engine has recesses for valves in the pistons or not.

A jump can occur while the valves are being lowered to inject fuel or release gases. The pistons are still moving and can hit the valves hard. This will lead to bending of the latter. This situation is similar to a broken timing belt. You can read more about which engines this happens on in this article.

To avoid this situation, it is recommended to do a timely inspection and, if necessary, change the consumable.

How to avoid timing belt breakage or slippage

First of all, it is necessary to strictly observe the timing belt replacement interval, in most cases this is 60,000 km. vehicle mileage. Next, keep an eye on the oil seals, including the crankshaft; oil drips under the hood are a sign of one of them leaking. Periodically check the tension of the timing belt; if it becomes loose, immediately take measures to tighten it. Always use original spare parts when replacing a belt. This also includes replacing the pump; buy only the one recommended by the manufacturer.

Photo reports on replacing the timing belt

Aligning the belt according to the marks and how to set the timing belt without marks

Let's start with the fact that below we will focus on the general rules and instructions regarding how to set the timing belt. With all this, it should be taken into account that on cars with tuned sports camshafts, as well as on some models with 2 or only one camshaft, the order and features of the drive belt alignment may differ. To obtain clearer information, it is better to consult with specialists or separately study the operating instructions for a specific internal combustion engine model.

The timing belt jumped a tooth. Symptoms and consequences. VAZ 8 class.

In our case, the teeth on the belt are cut and the timing is off.

Before work, you should keep in mind that the main task will be to ensure that the previously set marks do not get lost during the replacement. This will help simplify the process because there will be no need for advanced configuration ahead.

Let's imagine that the mark has moved backward in relation to the camshaft sprocket. In this situation, the mark is aligned with the upper left edge of the valve cover gasket. If the mark has moved forward and is marked “from”, then the marked mark is aligned with the arrow located behind the camshaft sprocket. In the case when the camshaft mark is shifted by 180 degrees or so, then the crankshaft rotates one revolution.

We also note that in the process of setting TDC in the first cylinder, it is recommended to remove the distributor cover. This is necessary in order to control the placement of the notch on the distributor body. The notch should coincide with the center of the slider. To detect the notch, the plastic casing covering the Hall sensor is raised slightly. When all the marks listed above match, this means that you can install a new timing belt. Let us add that before installation, many also fix the flywheel by inserting a screwdriver into the hole in the box. After which you can install the belt and rollers.

The main nuances of the functioning of the timing belt in cars

It is extremely important to understand that the rubber timing element is responsible for transmitting the timing gear in the motor shafts. The latter, in turn, are responsible for the maintenance of the air-fuel mixture in the cylinders of the power unit.

If the timing belt jumps or breaks, the entire timing belt system begins to function differently. All this is manifested by shifts and malfunctions of the most important component of the car - its engine. It was written in detail above that in these cases the power of the power plant necessarily decreases, fuel consumption increases and starting deteriorates.

In addition, slippage or rupture of the timing component can cause failure of the piston-valve group in the engine. When the belt breaks, the valves open towards the piston, which leads to internal engine problems.

Monitoring the condition of the timing belt is a guarantee of preventing severe consequences for the power plant. But it is important to be able to control not only the appearance of the belt, but also the degree of tension. On their own, which is quite natural, it will be extremely difficult for a person with non-professional skills to diagnose the correct installation of the belt. In order not to make a mistake, you need to pay attention to the service life of the belt and the condition of the parts accompanying the operation of the element. In particular, ensuring the degree of tension and uninterrupted operation.

The period for replacing the most important timing part may vary. It depends on the specific car manufacturer. In addition, it is necessary to take into account such an indicator as the originality of the part. It is clear that “left” companies can easily produce defective belts or belts with a reduced service life.

It is also important to understand that on the modern market you quite often find parts of the universal type rather than the standard one. What does it mean? It's simple - universal parts, belts in this case, are not made for a specific car. They are not a priori characterized by good quality, and although they are cheaper than the original ones, they are not recommended for purchase.

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