Why does the timing belt slip on a VAZ-2114: photos and videos || VAZ 2114 timing belt eating

Signs and causes of timing belt eating

It is very easy to find out that the timing belt has begun to be “eaten up.” Upon visual inspection, it will immediately become clear that it (and most often one of its sides) has become thinner and turned into rags. For obvious reasons, it is simply unacceptable to continue to use such a belt, since due to severe wear, it can break at any time.

But there is also no need to rush to install a new belt, since in a short time it will come to exactly the same condition as the old one. First, you need to figure out why the timing belt on the VAZ-2114 is eating.

Wear of the timing belt VAZ 2114

In most cases, such severe belt wear is preceded by the replacement of components that directly affect its tension and operation, namely:

• pulleys;
• tension roller;
• pump

If you carried out a timing belt repair, and immediately after that the belt started “eating,” then the very first thing you should check is whether the indicated elements are installed correctly (for example, when turning the roller and pulleys there should be no crunching or other extraneous sounds, but they themselves should rotate softly and smoothly).

Timing belt tension roller stud VAZ 2114

When checking, pay close attention to the tension roller stud. It must have the correct geometry and not have bends, cracks or other defects.

The next thing to pay attention to is the tension of the belt. If it is weaker than required, then there is a high probability of the belt periodically slipping through several teeth, which can cause it to quickly be eaten. Otherwise (if the tension is excessive), there is a possibility of it breaking due to excessive load.

Checking whether the belt is tensioned correctly is very simple. It is enough to take it with two fingers and try to twist it (turn it in the transverse direction). If the belt has the correct tension, it can be turned no more than halfway. Otherwise (if the belt rotates more than 180 degrees or vice versa - it almost does not change its position, its tension should be adjusted).

This is done as follows (along with installing a new belt):

1. Using a 17 key, turn the crankshaft until the marks on the engine and on the upper pulley match.
2. After removing the plug, check the coincidence of similar marks in the crankcase.
3. If there is a coincidence, immediately secure the flywheel with a screwdriver.
4. Loosen the mounting screws and unscrew the alternator belt tension adjusting screw by 80%.
5. Unscrew the generator pulley fixing screw.
6. Loosen the nut on the timing belt tension pulley.
7. Remove the old belt and install a new one.
8. Having fixed the tension roller motionless using a fork wrench (or a lock ring remover), tighten the adjusting nut with a wrench until the desired timing belt tension is obtained (how to measure it was described above).

Timing belt tension VAZ 2114

If the already installed timing belt is in good condition and you only need to adjust its tension, you only need to follow the last point of the instructions. In most cases, after properly tensioning the belt, the problem with it “eating” disappears, but not always. In this situation, you should pay close attention to the condition of the gear teeth.

If the crankshaft and camshaft gears have worn, worn-out teeth, this can be the main reason for extremely rapid wear of the timing belt.

Broken camshaft tooth

You can determine the wear of the gears by eye - if some teeth are ground down, broken off, or missing altogether, then this is a direct indication for their replacement; there are no other options. In some cases, the situation can be aggravated by an oil leak - when it gets on the belt, it (like many other petroleum products) causes it to corrode and quickly peel off the teeth.

Methods for eliminating belt eating

Below are examples of eliminating the causes of belt wear and eliminating the causes of belt eating.

Fake belt

A poor-quality belt may be the culprit of the problem; in order to check this, you need to turn the belt over and try to start the engine; if the belt starts to slide in the other direction, then most likely the plane of the belt is uneven and has a cone shape, which leads to it slipping and being eaten. This problem is treated by replacing it with a new, higher quality belt.

Incorrect tension

The timing belt must be tensioned as recommended by the manufacturer. This information can be found in specialized books on VAZ car repairs or on the Internet. Over-tightening the belt places a load on the bearings and can cause wear on both the rollers and the pump.

crooked hairpin

As a result of the efforts when tightening the roller, it happens that the roller pin becomes slightly bent and, as a result, the roller tilts. This problem will lead to belt misalignment.

The problem is solved by replacing the stud with a new one or placing half washers under the roller in order to correct the tilt of the stud and align the roller.

Thread damage

Damage to the threads, as well as bending the stud, can change the trajectory of the belt. This problem is solved by unscrewing the stud and running the threads with a sword. In the worst case, it is necessary to dismantle the cylinder head to bore or restore the threads.

Water pump

When the pump receives any damage or wear, no action other than replacing it can be taken. If the culprit is the pump, it must be replaced.

Pump misalignment

The problem is that when installing a new pump, most car enthusiasts often use sealant or do not clean the surface of the old gasket. All these points can affect the tightness of the water pump to the block body, which can affect the trajectory of the timing belt. You should thoroughly clean the surface on the cylinder block from the remains of the old gasket and do not use sealant; just install the gasket that comes with the pump.

Working on rollers

The rollers, like the pump, are subject to aging and wear, and in case of such problems, the rollers only need to be replaced; any other methods of correcting belt wear due to the rollers are impossible

Camshaft gear wear

The camshaft gear is made of soft metal, which can quickly wear out and wear out. Most often, the gear wears out already at a mileage close to 150 thousand. If this problem occurs, the gears must be replaced.

Crankshaft gear

Most often, the crankshaft gear wears to a cone and the belt begins to move outward, which leads to friction on the spacer washer between the gear and the accessory drive pulley. Because of this situation, the belt can squeak and howl, and in most cases of this situation, the belt eats up.

The problem is solved by replacing the crankshaft gear.

We hope our article was useful to you.

Such a problem as the timing belt slipping from the place of fixation is common, and this is most often due to poor-quality materials of the belt itself and its component elements. Below we will tell you how to avoid such a situation, and how to prevent the unwanted consequences of such a breakdown.

The video shows how the timing belt slips on a VAZ-2114:

Reasons why the timing belt eats

In total, there are seven main reasons why the timing belt eats. To begin with, we will simply list and describe them, and in the next section we will talk about how each problem can be solved.

1. Incorrect belt tension . In particular, if the belt is overtightened, then a situation is possible where wear occurs on one of its edges, since a significant friction force is generated there.
2. Poor quality belt . Sometimes a situation occurs when domestic manufacturers produce low-quality belts that are made from material that does not meet standards or in violation of production technologies. Especially if the belt is cheap and of some unknown brand (simply a fake). Its cross-sectional surface may not be flat, but may have the shape of a cone or oval.
3. Pump wear . In particular, we are talking about wear on the water pump bearings. This may well cause the timing belt to slip to the side.
4. The pump is installed crookedly . However, this is rather an exceptional case, the probability of which is extremely low, since if it is crooked even by a few millimeters (due to the remains of an old gasket or simply dirt), then a coolant leak will appear.
5. Problems with the video . It, like a belt, may simply be of poor quality. Currently, rollers are often made on the basis of single-row bearings, which have a low service life and can play. It is also possible that the surface of the roller is not smooth, but has the shape of a cone or oval. Naturally, the belt will “walk” on such a surface in one direction or the other.
6. Damage to stud threads . If the nut on a stud is tightly tightened, a situation may arise where the threads on the stud itself or the threads inside the aluminum block may become damaged or go askew. Because of this, the pin is not installed strictly perpendicular to the plane, but at a slight angle.
7. Roller pin bend . We are talking about the tension roller mounting pin. A fairly common reason caused by unprofessional installation of a new tension roller. In this case, a situation often arises when the tightening torque of the eccentric nut is selected not according to technical documentation, but “from the heart,” that is, excessively. This, in turn, leads to the fact that even the slightest (up to 0.1 mm) displacement will cause the timing belt to slip towards the engine or move in the opposite direction.

The stud may bend if it is tightened with a torque of more than 4.2 kgf m. The data is relevant for all front-wheel drive VAZs, where this problem most often occurs.

As practice shows, the last described reason occurs most often. And car enthusiasts have invented a universal method with which they can correct the situation.

Where does the belt slip and why?

Note! The belt can slip either towards the engine or in the opposite direction from it.

This happens regardless of how exactly it was installed in the middle of the gear, since the reason for this is not only the belt itself, but also the elements and mechanisms accompanying its operation. In order to solve this problem, you need to use the methods described below.

Timing belt

In modern times, in the automotive spare parts market, facts of counterfeits and low-quality products are becoming more and more common.

The top is the original timing belt and the bottom is a fake.

Specifically touching on the issue with the timing belt, we can talk about its uneven structure, increased elasticity (the ability to stretch excessively - approx.), as well as the presence of significant differences between the two edges (distortion - approx.).

The degree of straightness of the newly installed belt can only be determined on the mounted mechanism.

And, if even minor deviations are observed after starting the engine, then the reason is in the belt.

Belt is on and tight

water pump

The timing belt can slip due to play in the pump (pump - approx.). It is very easy to determine its presence; you just need to grab the working surface of the gear with your hand, and if there is even the slightest play, the unit must be changed. In this case, read the material: “choosing a reliable pump for the VAZ-2114”

Leaks on the cylinder block from the timing side indicate that the pump has failed

Tension roller

The next element that needs to be diagnosed when the timing belt is slipping is the tension roller.

Although it may seem like a simple part, deviation from its performance specifications can significantly affect the overall correct operation of the part. In simple terms, a curved roller will not be able to provide the belt with linear movement , wearing out and moving it to the side.

The diagram is clear and understandable.

Another reason for discussions on popular forums about the belt moving to the side is the installation of rollers of different types, because the analogue has a different, slightly modified design.

The difference between the rollers

The difference between these two spare parts is that the old side has a different shape, made of metal, while the new one is made of plastic.

Therefore, as the theory shows, a spare part made of plastic causes much less friction than its metal counterpart.

There are two types of rollers.

The timing belt is slipping on a VAZ engine.

The timing belt is slipping towards the engine

Many owners of front-wheel drive VAZ cars, after some period of operation, have encountered the fact that the timing belt slips towards the engine (which happens more often), or vice versa from the engine. In this case, the edge of the belt begins to wear against the engine part, the flange of the tension roller, and the cord threads break. And if you don’t notice this in time, the timing belt will break at the most inopportune moment. If on an eight-valve VAZ engine the consequences of a broken timing belt only threaten to stop the engine, then on a 16-valve cylinder head repair results in a fairly large sum. Now let's look at the reasons that cause the timing belt to slip and ways to eliminate this problem.

Gas distribution system VAZ-2114

It will not be a secret to anyone that over time, any part will wear out and require replacement; for some, this period is measured in hundreds, for others, tens of thousands of kilometers.

Timing mechanism diagram

As for the gas distribution mechanism system, and specifically its belt, replacement should be done at the end of its service life, or if there is visible damage to it.

However, it should be noted that when replacing an old belt with a new one, a problem may occur such as the belt sliding out of its place, which in turn can lead to eating (wear - approx.) of the edge of the belt, which in the future will only contribute to its wear, break and another replacement.

We hasten to please you

The VAZ-2114 car was equipped only with an 8-valve engine, with a volume of 1.5 and 1.6 liters, which may indicate that when the timing belt breaks, the pistons and valves do not meet and the latter do not bend , which is certainly favorable affects not only subsequent repairs, but also the car owner’s wallet.

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Belt care instructions

Above we listed the main reasons for timing belt wear, now we’ll add a few words about how to extend its service life.

To do this you need:

• periodically (at least once a month) check the degree of belt tension and, if necessary, adjust it;
• before installing a new belt, treat all gear teeth with white spirit;
• avoid contact of gasoline and technical oils with the surface of the belt;
• replace the belt at least every 60,000 km (teared teeth and drops of oil on the belt significantly reduce this figure);
• periodically check the condition of the tension roller (if a whistle appears after replacing the belt, this means that the roller is already worn out and a new one should be purchased and installed).

Oil on the VAZ 2114 timing belt
In conclusion, it should also be added that the picture in the form of two or three teeth torn off on the belt is a consequence of the water pump being jammed. To avoid such a situation in the future, it should be replaced after draining the coolant from the system.

Other ways to adjust the roller

If you look at the standard and proper operation of the timing belt, then the tension roller should be located exactly in the middle of the pump and camshaft gears. However, some VAZ-2114 owners, in order to avoid the belt slipping, pull the roller to the side, closer to the camshaft, thus the belt, receiving the greatest bend in its upper part, is more firmly fixed in its place.

All tension roller components for VAZ-2114.

In order to fix it in this position, it is necessary to pre-make a blank in the form of a half washer made of aluminum (an aluminum can works well - approx.), which must be fixed between the spacer ring and the cylinder block.

Such a need can arise only if the spacer ring has differences in its thickness. You can take its measurements yourself, using only a caliper.

New camshaft gear

However, such a procedure can bring results if the car’s mileage on old spare parts is at least 100 thousand kilometers. Otherwise, such a replacement may not bring the desired result.

Why does the timing belt on a VAZ 2114 move away from the engine?

I had 099. I took it from my hands. I drove it for 2 years and covered almost 100,000 km. thank God I sold it and here's why: the timing belt was sliding towards the engine and rubbing against the oil pump mounting bolt, then it crawled onto the side of the roller and so on until it broke, and this was only at high speeds (well, at a speed of 120) and this happened 2 times - EVERY fall. I did everything I could and changed all the stars with rollers until they turned off the roller pin for me (I had to cut in a new one). In short, the last time a year ago, a specialist somehow assembled it, so before it was sold this fall, I went and took part in races, and whatever I did with it, everything was good. Only the belt went along the very edge. This is all I mean: finding out the main reason is not easy, I was even told about a possible misalignment as a factory defect. But you’ll have to start with the video, and then as it goes, you may have to change the stars, but only in pairs. Yes, and don’t take the Komtitechevsky belt, rubber. Balakovsky is good.

The same garbage appeared after the engine was overhauled, the belt eats slowly but surely and specifically on the oil mounting bolt. pump and belt, the roller crawls onto the side, and two days ago another sound appeared, like from a ratchet, which was installed on the wheels of a bike in childhood, only a little muffled, approximately from the area of ​​the gene drive pulley. I took off the plastic casing, removed the timing belt, started it, it still crackled. Maybe someone has encountered this and can tell me what could be happening. :ooo: I was just about to sell the car, and she started doing such numbers. :ooo:

Exactly. As soon as I submitted the ad, on the same day the low beam and fog lights went out, the tracks in the mounting block burned out and the terminals under the relay and under the fuse melted, everything was soldered. The next day the doors began to open poorly, I took off the locks, washed and lubricated everything, now the belt, probably as I do, will give some more problems.

Source

The procedure for replacing the timing belt VAZ 2109 1.5 liters 8 valves

Old VAZ 2109 with a 1.5 8 valve engine, timing belt replacement. In general, it could be a VAZ 2114 or 2110, there is no difference in operation, the eight-valve engine is the same everywhere. Together with the belt, we will change the pump, the tension roller and two pulleys, the camshaft and the crankshaft. If the timing belt breaks, the valves on this engine do not bend, but it is better not to let it get to that point. Changing the pump and roller is a prerequisite so that after a thousand kilometers you don’t have to disassemble everything again. But it’s up to you to decide for the pulley, the price is 150 rubles per pair. There were cars where a slightly bent pulley caused the belt to slip and gradually wear out, reducing its service life. On this car the belt was worn down in half.

We recommend that you periodically check the condition of the belt to avoid annoying consequences and not have to look for someone to take it to a repair shop. Replace every 40,000 kilometers.

And here is the patient himself.

To replace it, we need a key for the tension roller, the price is half a hundred rubles. You can buy it at any auto store. As well as a set of keys and sockets and two hours of free time.

CHEVROLET Lanos

A budget car, which, in addition to wiping the canvas, has a lot of small and large breakdowns. But, despite the dubious quality of some spare parts, Lanos still earned respect from car enthusiasts.

To extend the service life of the belt, you must follow the driving rules - do not press the gas all the way when in low gear.

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We pay for photo reports on car repairs. Earnings from 10,000 rubles/month.

Write:

Many owners of front-wheel drive VAZs are concerned about the problem of why the timing belt is eating ? Most often this question is asked by owners of the following VAZ models - 2108, 2109, 2110, 2112, 2114, Kalina, Priora, Grant (and this problem occurs on engines with both 8 and 16 valves). There is only one general answer to the question raised: the belt is skewed. And this, in turn, can happen for a number of reasons - the pump is installed unevenly, the roller is of poor quality, a washer of the wrong size is installed between the roller and the block (or it is missing altogether) and some others. Each of the listed problems is solved in its own way. In most cases, work to eliminate the causes can be carried out independently, provided you have the appropriate experience and tools. This will save money, and the repair work itself does not take much time and effort.

Originality of the belt

Today, a car owner can easily run into a fake. The companies themselves state that more than half of all products on the market are from unknown sources. At the same time, the names of high-quality and well-known companies are indicated on counterfeits. You buy such a belt, and then it’s just a headache - it gets eaten, breaks, and falls off.

Original belt or not

How to spot a fake:

1. In the packaging, the original production belt usually lies on a plastic stand. Most counterfeits are packaged inside in plastic bags or simply lie there without anything.
2. The writing on the original belt is always clear. On the fake, the font is smaller, the letters and numbers are not printed clearly.
3. The original belt always has arrows printed on it; a fake belt may not have them.

You can also check the video for originality:

1. A fake roller, as a rule, does not have any small inscriptions on the steel rims. The original is always stamped with a stamp with a code, date, etc.
2. There is always a stamp on the back of the original roller.

Timing support roller

Regarding the support roller:

1. On a fake, the bolt head does not contain a seal.
2. Between the teeth on the reverse side of the original there are numbers and letters.

Original solution

In most cases, adjusting the timing belt involves adjusting the spacer washer installed under the NTZ roller. Experienced craftsmen and motorists advise inspecting this very washer, checking to see if it is placed backwards.

Indeed, the amateurism of service station workers in some cases is simply infuriating. Mechanics who have been practicing even for several years may simply not notice the adhesive on the spacer washer, pointing to the correct side. Yes, it is applied with acrylic varnish and may not be noticeable, but if you look closely, you can see it.

What is the function of the spacer washer? The main reason for the belt slipping, as was written above, is not the misalignment of the crankshaft, but the initial unevenness of the working surface. Knowing this, AvtoVAZ designers and mechanics initially came up with the idea of ​​leveling the seat with a spacer washer. And they put it on acrylic glue.

Using shims when the belt slips

You can make washers yourself, for example, from the body of aluminum beer cans, coffee tins, or use ready-made ones from the factory. The main thing is that the washers are the same size as the spacer ring installed between the block and the tension roller eccentric. There are two options. The first uses factory washers. The thickness and quantity are selected experimentally. The use of this method is ambiguous, since the washers are flat and, accordingly, the contact plane of the roller will remain parallel to the same. However, this method has helped some car enthusiasts.

1 - if the belt is sliding towards the engine, 2 - if the belt is sliding away from the engine

Another method is to make your own crescent-shaped washers. The number and width of washers are also selected experimentally. The use of such washers is more expedient, since with their help it is possible to change the angle of inclination of the pin and roller so that it forms a normal to the plane of the cylinder block body.

The washer must be installed according to the diagram shown in the figure. In particular, if the timing belt is slipping towards the engine, then the washer/washers should be installed closer to the center of the block. If the belt moves from the engine, then vice versa, closer to the edge of the block. When installing washers, it is recommended to use a heat-resistant sealant that will keep them from sliding to the side with or without load.

Finally, I would like to note that in rare cases, the cause of the belt shifting to one side or the other and its eating can be caused by not one, but several of the reasons described above. As a rule, the method of using shims is universal and can save the situation in even the most “neglected” cases. However, it makes sense to inspect the belt, roller and pump in order to identify shortcomings in their operation, and, if necessary, replace the listed components. This will save you from having other problems with these parts in the future.

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How to more easily monitor the condition of the timing belt

During operation, and especially the first days after replacement (as well as replacing any other component of the timing drive), everyone strongly recommends monitoring the condition and behavior of the drive belt. It is covered with a casing, removing the casing every day is a very troublesome task, our instructions will tell you how to make it easier:

• For daily monitoring of the drive belt, we recommend cutting a small window in the upper part of the belt housing.

Small slit in the top of the casing to allow viewing of the drive belt

• Now you can easily monitor the condition of the belt, promptly detect the appearance of cracks, scuffs, “gnawing” of the edges and take action in advance, rather than waiting for a break

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Frequency of replacement and its early implementation

According to the manufacturer, replacement should be performed after approximately 40 thousand kilometers. Although here a number of factors should be taken into account, including gear wear. And the quality of spare parts and components can significantly affect the duration of the working life. As practice shows, the actual mileage after which you need to seriously think about replacing this element is about 25 thousand kilometers. In addition, the belt must be replaced if the following factors are present:

• There are oil leaks directly on the belt;
• There are signs of excessive wear or abrasion on the surface;
• The teeth are damaged;
• Threads appeared on the surface or its delamination began.

The main reasons why the timing belt jumps

This is how a timing belt works

The timing belt is an important element of the car, so it needs to be serviced promptly. The reasons that lead to its jump are the following:

1. Contact of oil or cooling liquid on the belt surface
2. Improper use
3. Late replacement
4. External damage
5. Incorrectly placed labels
6. Difficult operating conditions
7. Low quality spare parts

Of course, these are not all cases due to which the timing belt breaks or jumps. But this can be understood by the following signs.