Assembly diagram for the rear pillar of the VAZ 2109


Rear suspension parts


1 – wheel hub; 2 – suspension arm mounting bracket; 3 – silent block; 4 – shock absorber casing; 5 – compression stroke buffer; 6 – casing cover; 7 – support washer; 8 – shock absorber cushions; 9 – spacer sleeve; 10 – shock absorber; 11 – rubber gasket; 12 – rear suspension spring; 13 – lever connector; 14 – lever of the rear suspension beam; 15 – shock absorber mounting bracket; 16 – lower spring support cup; 17 – rod; 18 – upper spring support cup.

Description of design

The rear suspension is with 12 coil springs and 10 double-acting hydraulic telescopic shock absorbers.

The main load-bearing element of the suspension is a beam consisting of trailing arms 14 and a connector 13, welded together through reinforcements. At the rear, brackets 15 with eyes for attaching shock absorbers 10 and flanges for attaching the rear wheel axles and brake shields are welded to the suspension arms. At the front, the levers 14 are equipped with welded bushings with silent blocks 3 pressed into them. A bolt passes through the central bushing of the silent block, connecting the lever to the bracket 2. Three welded bolts are provided to secure the bracket to the body spar.

The suspension spring 12 rests with its lower end on a cup welded to the shock absorber reservoir, and with its upper end, through a rubber gasket 11, on a support welded from the inside to the body arch.

The lower eye of the shock absorber is bolted to bracket 15 of the suspension arm, and its rod is secured to the upper support of the suspension spring through two rubber pads 8 (one at the bottom of the support, the other at the top) and a support washer 7 (under the nut).

The rear suspension springs are divided into two stiffness classes according to their length in the free state and under load: A (more rigid, “high”) and B (less rigid, “low”). Springs of the same class must be installed on the front and rear suspensions. But in exceptional cases, if class A springs are installed in the front suspension, class B springs can be installed in the rear suspension (but not vice versa!). The quality of the springs can be fully assessed by the performance of the suspension on the car. If the suspension often “breaks through” to the bump stops on uneven roads or sags under load, stiffer springs should be installed. When replacing springs, do not forget to check the serviceability of the shock absorbers - after all, it is the shock absorber-spring pair that largely determines the characteristics of the suspension.

The hub has a double-row angular contact ball bearing, similar to the front wheel hub bearing, but smaller in size. The bearing fit on the axle is transitional (with slight interference or clearance). During operation, the bearing does not require adjustment or replenishment of lubricant. It is not allowed to eliminate the resulting play by tightening the nut; the bearing should be replaced. When dismantling the hub, the bearing is destroyed, so it is not recommended to disassemble the hub if the bearing is in good condition.

Suspension with virtual steering axis

This suspension is used on Volkswagen Phaeton passenger cars. When the front wheel is suspended on four arms, its rotation axis does not pass through the upper and lower hinges of the rotary strut, as is the case with known suspension designs, but through the intersection points of the extended axes of the upper and lower arms.

Rice. Suspension with a virtual axis of rotation of the wheel: 1…4 – directions of the longitudinal axes of the levers; R – wheel center; A – center of the wheel support surface; n – offset of the rotation axis relative to the center of the supporting surface; nv – offset of the turning axis relative to the center of the wheel; p – rolling shoulder; a – arm of action of disturbing forces; AS – point of intersection of the wheel turning axis with the road plane

Thus, the steering axis of the wheel is located, as it were, in free space and changes its location when the wheel is turned. Therefore, such a wheel rotation axis is called virtual. This design allows you to significantly bring the wheel’s turning axis closer to its middle plane. This has a positive effect on the values ​​of the rolling arm and the arm of the disturbing forces, thereby improving the vehicle's handling and stability characteristics

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The rear suspension beam consists of two trailing arms 15 (Fig. 17) and a connector 14, which are welded together through reinforcements. In the rear part, brackets 16 with eyes for attaching shock absorbers are welded to the suspension arms, as well as flanges 2, to which the rear wheel axles are bolted. At the front, the suspension arms have welded bushings 3 into which rubber-metal hinges 4 are pressed. A bolt passes through the hinge connecting the suspension arm to a stamped-welded bracket 5, which is attached to the body spar with welded bolts. The suspension spring 12 rests with one end on the shock absorber cup 1, and with the other through an insulating gasket 13 in a support welded to the inner arch (mudguard) of the body. On the shock absorber rod of the rear suspension, a compression stroke buffer 7 is installed, closed by a cover 8 with a casing 6, and shock absorber mounting parts - a spacer sleeve 11, cushions 10 and a support washer 9.

Rice. 17. Rear suspension parts

Shock absorber 8 (Fig. 18) of the rear suspension is hydraulic, telescopic, double-acting. It is attached with bolt 9 to the suspension trailing arm bracket. The upper mount of the shock absorber is pin-type: the tray is attached to the upper support 5 of the suspension spring through rubber pads 6, cup 2 and support washers 3. An insulating spacer 4 is installed between spring 1 and support 5. The lower part of the spring rests against cup 7. The details of the shock absorber are shown in Fig. 19.

Rice. 18. Shock absorber mounting

Hub 13 (see Fig. 18) has a double-row angular contact bearing 12, similar to the front wheel hub bearing, but smaller. Unlike the front wheel hub, where the inner bearing ring is installed on the hub with guaranteed interference, bearing 12 has a transitional fit. It is fixed in the hub with a locking ring 16, and on the axle 14 with a nut 15. The wheel axle is secured with its flange with bolts 10 to the flange of the rear suspension beam. The brake drum 11 is attached to the wheel hub with bolts and dowel pins 17.

Rice. 19. Rear suspension shock absorber parts

1 —

recoil valve nut;
2 —
recoil valve spring;
3 —
recoil valve plate;
4 —
washer;
5
— recoil valve discs;
6 —
throttle disk of the recoil valve;
7
- piston;
8 — piston ring; 9 — bypass valve plate; 10 —
bypass valve spring;
11
— restrictive plate;
12 —
spacer sleeve;
13 -
reservoir;
14 -
rod;
15 —
compression buffer support;
16
- nut;
17
— gasket;
18
— rod protective ring;
19 —
oil seal;
20 —
sealing ring of the tank;
21 —
rod guide bushing;
22 -
cylinder;
23 —
compression valve cage;
24 —
intake valve spring;
25 —
compression valve plate;
26 —
throttle disk of the compression valve;
27 —
compression valve discs;
28 — compression valve body; 29 —
rubber-metal hinge.

Rear suspension diagram for VAZ 2109

Problems with the rear suspension for the VAZ 2109 are not uncommon. Therefore, every car owner is obliged to know the structure of this unit, understand the circuit and understand where each element is located, how the rear suspension parts interact with each other.

Knowing the device and circuit, it will be much easier for you to identify the damaged element and carry out the repair yourself.


Bottom view

VAZ-2109 - what the rear suspension consists of

All of the above fully applies to the chassis.
Neither the front nor the rear suspensions are complex in design. Accordingly, repairs and troubleshooting should not cause any problems. In this article we will look at the design features of the rear suspension of the VAZ-2109. First, let's list its elements:

  • hub;
  • spring and its cups - lower and upper;
  • lever mounting bracket;
  • shock absorbers and their cushions;
  • silent blocks;
  • compression progress buffer;
  • lever connector;
  • rubber gasket;
  • beam arm and connector;
  • stock;
  • spacer;
  • support washer.

Generally speaking, the rear suspension of the “nine” is independent, torsion bar. Due to the not very high quality of domestic roads, especially in the outback, it is the chassis that bears the most serious load. Every hole or pothole that a wheel hits is a very noticeable blow to the suspension. You can understand that there are some problems here by hearing. In this case, you will hear an extraneous knock. It can be either deaf or voiced. Experienced professionals use it to make a “diagnosis”, and with very high accuracy. Accordingly, as soon as you hear that something is knocking in the suspension, you should immediately start looking for the problem.

Replacement

To replace or partially repair you have to go through a rather labor-intensive path.

You will need the following set of tools and materials:

  • Screwdriver Set;
  • Set of wrenches;
  • Jack;
  • Partner.

Decide in advance whether you are going to change the entire assembly, or whether you want to change only the damaged elements of the rear pillar. The volume of your purchases depends on this.

You can start working. Based on our instructions and the video lessons provided, you will be able to replace the rear struts yourself.

  1. Turn the gearbox into first gear mode.
  2. Raise the rear wheels using a jack.
  3. Install supports, strengthening the reliability of fixing your car in a given position.
  4. Remove the racks. To do this, first go to the trunk, remove the decorative rubber plug, which is located on top of the rack mount. It is better to remove all unnecessary things from the trunk.
  5. Take a 17-size spanner and a 6-size open-end wrench. With their help, you can unscrew the nut with a spanner, and the open-end wrench will be useful for holding the shock-absorbing strut rod.


Removal process

  1. That's it, this allows you to remove the mounting nut, support washer, spring washer and top pad without any problems.
  2. Now we go under the car to finish what we started.
  3. Take a 19 mm wrench and remove the shock absorber mounting bolt to the rear beam. Remove it.
  4. In some cases, problems may arise with dismantling this bolt, since it simply sticks. To do this, pre-treat the bolt with the almighty WD40 and give it time to react.
  5. If even this method did not help, then you will have to take the guide and simply knock out the fastening element.
  6. Next, remove our shock absorber along with the spring.
  7. Do not forget that during such manipulations most often the spring gasket remains on the body. It sticks to the metal. Many people forget to take it out, which causes difficulties during reinstallation. Don't make this mistake.
  8. Clean all the seats to make it more convenient for you and make it all look more aesthetically pleasing. Plus, neatness never hurts to extend the service life of new spare parts.
  9. To make it more convenient for you, wrap the gasket on the new spring with electrical tape, or secure it with thin wire. This will prevent it from slipping when you begin installation.
  10. When putting the assembly back together with the new rear strut, be sure to make sure that the raised portion of the spring cup faces the direction of the wheel.
  11. Secure the lower end of the rack with a nut and bolt, but there is no need to tighten the fasteners just yet.
  12. Using the lever of your jack, raise and lower the rear of the car. This is necessary in order to eventually insert the shock absorber rod into the hole in the body of your nine.
  13. With the spring in place, pull the shock absorber rod out to its full length.
  14. Insert the rod into the lower ear and secure with a bolt.
  15. Place a jack under the beam and begin manipulating the lifting mechanism.
  16. At the same time, the spring will begin to compress, and the rod will move towards the glass.
  17. You or your assistant must be alert in the car in order to have time to pry the rod with a screwdriver and ensure it is directed in the right direction.
  18. Once the rod is in place, the work can be considered almost complete.
  19. Fix the rod, not forgetting to insert the cushion, washer and engraver. All this is securely fixed.
  20. Now you can lower the car onto its own wheels and fully tighten the bolt of the lower shock absorber mounting.


Re-assembly stage
Changing rear rack assemblies is easier and faster than dismantling, disassembling the old rack, looking for defects in it and replacing individual damaged components. But this requires less financial costs.

Changing racks is not that difficult, even if you have little experience in such matters. But if there are none, be sure to contact trusted car services. Do not risk your own car, otherwise subsequent repairs will be even more difficult and expensive.

Rear suspension device for VAZ 2109.

  1. central beam,
  2. trailing arms,
  3. mounting brackets,
  4. springs,
  5. hydraulic shock absorbers.

The central beam is the main element in the design of the rear axle of a car. The design is welded.

Springs and hydraulic shock absorbers are also of high importance in suspension. They are attached to the beam from below with bolts, and with their upper part to the car body through rubber-metal bushings.

Shock absorbers (double-acting) give smoothness and stability to the vehicle, and also dampen radial vibrations.

As for the rear suspension springs, they come in two stiffness classes: A - more rigid, “high” and B - less rigid, “low”. In this case, the rear springs must have the same stiffness as the front suspension springs. Although in some cases, it is allowed for class B springs in the rear suspension, and class A springs in the front suspension, but not vice versa!

In the case when the car’s suspension “breaks through” to the bump stops and (or) sags under load, it is recommended to install stiffer springs on the car, not forgetting to first check their performance.

But let's return to the main structural element of the rear suspension of the VAZ 2109 - the central beam.

According to the design of the car, flanges are welded to its side parts, to which, in turn, the hub is screwed. The hub has a sleeve bearing. This is a double-row angular contact bearing with a transitional fit on the axle. During vehicle operation, this wheel bearing does not require replenishment of lubrication or adjustment. By the way, if play occurs, the bearing should simply be replaced, but under no circumstances should you try to eliminate the play by tightening the nut. If the bearing does not play, then there is no need to remove the hub.

As for other malfunctions and possible repairs, I would like to note the following.

The chassis of a car is its basis, therefore, it is necessary to regularly (at least once every 6 months, and during intensive driving - once every 3 months) monitor its condition.

Diagram and designations

The rear suspension components are slightly smaller compared to the front. Because of this, the design can be called simpler. But this does not in any way reduce the degree of responsibility of you, as the driver, for the good condition of the unit.

Node diagram

Having familiarized yourself with the node diagram, you can move on to the elements that are indicated on it.

Item number What is
1. Wheel hub
2. suspension arm
3. Lever fixation bracket
4. Lever joint bushing (rubber)
5. Lever joint bushing (spacer)
6. Suspension arm fixing bolt
7. Car body bracket
8. Support washer for fastening the strut rod (shock absorber)
9. Upper spring support
10. Spacer
11. Rear suspension spring insulation gasket
12. Spring
13. Strut rod mounting pads
14. Compression Progress Buffer
15. Shock absorber rod
16. Shock absorber protection cover
17. Lower spring support cup
18. Shock absorber
19. Rear suspension arm connector
20. Hub axle
21. Cap
22. Rear wheel hub fixing nut
23. Sealing ring
24. Wheel bearing washer
25. Wheel bearing
26. Brake shield
27. Retaining ring
28. Dirt-reflecting element
29. Rear suspension arm flange
30. Rear suspension shock absorber bushing
31. Lever bracket with lugs for shock absorber mounting
32. Rear suspension arm joint, rubber-metal type

Device Features

Having understood the diagram, you should separately talk about what the design of the rear suspension of the domestically produced VAZ 2109 is. Knowing all the features and nuances of the suspension elements used, you will know how to carry out further repairs, preventive maintenance, and what parts to buy for replacement old.

  1. The VAZ 2109 uses a torsion-link rear suspension design. The guiding device here is a pair of longitudinal arms, which are connected to each other using an elastic connector. Since the connector is shifted forward relative to the wheel axis, the kinematic properties of the rear suspension of the nine correspond to the features of an independent suspension on trailing arms.
  2. The independent movement of each wheel is ensured by twisting the amplifier with a U-shaped cross-section. This section is characterized by low torsional rigidity and high bending rigidity. This makes the structure quite reliable and durable.
  3. The trailing arms are made of pipes. They are welded to the connector through the rear suspension arm reinforcements, which makes it possible to create a single beam. It is hingedly suspended through a bracket on the car body.
  4. Each of the rear suspension arms in front is equipped with a bushing into which rubber-metal joints are pressed. They consist of a pair of bushings - rubber and metal.
  5. Through the spacer sleeve there is a bolt that connects the suspension arm and the stamped bracket, which is mounted to the body bracket using bolts, nuts and washers. A self-locking nut is screwed onto the mounting bolt.
  6. Brackets with lugs are welded to the back of the levers, which are used for mounting shock absorbers, and flanges are necessary for attaching the rear wheel hub and brake shield using bolts.
  7. The elastic components of the rear suspension include springs and a compression stroke buffer.
  8. The spring is made of spring steel with a round cross-section. It is installed on the shock absorber and rested with its lower part on the cup. The upper part rests on a support, which is welded to the inner arch of the car body. The lower spring support cup is welded to the shock absorber. A rubber insulation gasket is installed between the upper support and the spring.
  9. Rear suspension springs are divided into two classes, depending on the control load along the length - A and B. Class A is marked in yellow, applied to the outer side of the middle coils. Class B has a green designation.
  10. The compression stroke buffer is made of polyurethane. It is mounted on the shock absorber rod inside the spring. From above, the buffer rests against the cover of the protection casing, but when it is put into operation, it rests on a support.
  11. The buffer support is pressed onto the top of the shock absorber reservoir.
  12. The buffer has annular grooves on the outer surface that determine the location of deformation.
  13. The protection casing provides protection from mechanical damage and contamination of the rod and compression stroke buffer. The casing is made of corrugated rubber, which allows you to change the length when the suspension is operating. There is a ring groove at the top inside the casing. They serve to enter the spent part of the steel cover. At the bottom, the casing is quite elastic, which allows it to be pressed against the spring support cup.
  14. The rear wheel axle is mounted to the lever flange using 4 mounting bolts. The same bolts are used to secure the brake shield.
  15. The hub rotates on an axis on a double-row ball bearing. The hub is mounted to the axle using a nut and thrust washer. The nut is installed on the axle by crimping its collar into the groove of the axle.
  16. The bearing is mounted in the hub using a retaining ring. The bearing is closed and contains almost permanent lubrication.
  17. The inside of the hub is sealed with a pair of dirt-reflecting rings. One of the rings is welded to the hub, and the second to the axle flange. A labyrinthine seal is formed between them.
  18. The outer cavity of the hub is closed by a cap. There is an O-ring between the cap and the hub.
  19. During operation of the VAZ 2109, the hub bearing is not adjustable and is not lubricated. The wheel disc is mounted to the hub using 4 mounting bolts.
  20. The shock absorbers on the rear suspension of the nine are hydraulic telescopic double-acting.
  21. The lower eye shock absorber is installed on the lower arm bracket using a bolt and a self-locking nut.
  22. The upper fastener of the shock absorber is pin-type - the rod is mounted to the upper spring support through a pair of rubber pads and a support washer. There is a spacer between the protection casing cover and the washer.

The design of the rear suspension cannot be called simple, since there are many elements that interact with each other. If this effective interaction is lost, the car begins to behave unstable and requires repair or replacement of certain components.

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It is not difficult to understand the diagram and structure of the rear suspension of the VAZ 2109 car. This will allow you to significantly save on repairs, avoiding visits to service stations, and also develop your own skills in independently repairing your own car.

Malfunctions of the rear suspension of the VAZ 2109.

For high-quality suspension diagnostics, it is best to go to a service station, where specialists at special stands will diagnose the condition of your car and, if necessary, eliminate existing problems.

Although, in order to identify and eliminate some suspension faults, it is not necessary to be a qualified specialist. Here are some “talking” examples of visual diagnostics.

  1. Oily smudges under the car in the area of ​​the rear suspension parts are a consequence of wear on the cuffs and shock absorber rod mirror.
  2. A knocking noise when driving usually indicates wear or loosening of the components.
  3. Strong impacts accompanied by a loud sound while driving on an uneven road indicate a loss of stiffness in the springs as a result of metal fatigue.
  4. Driving the car while moving to the side may indicate that the rubber-metal hinges attaching the beam to the side members are worn out.

By the way, a good test of shock absorbers is to simply press on the trunk of the car. If, with great force applied to the latter, the car sank and returned to its original position, without swaying, then the shock absorbers and springs are in working condition. If not, then there can be a lot of reasons for this: the seals, the rod are worn out, the valve mechanism, fluoroplastic bushing, etc. are faulty. Repairing the shock absorber helps in such cases, but not for long. It is advisable to replace such units with new ones and only in pairs.

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