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Lada Kalina - front strut support bearing: choice, price, characteristics
If you do change the support bearing individually by installing it in the old support, then you should buy from trusted manufacturers, a summary table of which and photographs are presented below. Catalog number (article) – 1118-2902840.
Table of recommended manufacturers
No. | Manufacturer | Manufacturer's code | Price 2021, rub. | Equipment | ||
Peculiarities | Retaining rings | Protective cap | ||||
1 | VBF Russia Analogue | 1118-2902840-01 | 700 | – Clip made of hardened steel; – Manufactured according to GOST; – Increased service life; – High-quality lubricant. | – | – |
2 | NPP "System Technologies" Russia Analogue | SS10113/11180-2902840-00 | 900 | – Silence; – Vibration damping; – Work at low temperatures; – Protection from dirt and dust. | – | – |
3 | AvtoVAZ Russia Original | 1118-2902840 | 750 | – Original product; – 1 year warranty; – Durability. | – | – |
Table of bearing sizes 8112Н and technical characteristics
Characteristic | Unit | Value according to GOST (TU) |
Inner diameter of the tight ring, d | mm | 60 |
Outer diameter of the tight ring, d1 | mm | 85 |
Free ring inner diameter, D1 | mm | 62 |
External diameter of free ring, D | mm | 80 |
Installation height | mm | 17 |
Dynamic load capacity | kH | 41,5 |
Static load capacity | kH | 95,0 |
Nominal speed | rpm | 3600 |
Axial clearance | mm | – |
Steel type | – | SHH-15 |
Hardness of steel and rollers | H.R.C. | 61-65 |
Contact angle | hail | – |
Torque | kN*M | 220 |
Ring roughness | Ra | 0.32 |
Number of balls | PC. | 24 |
Ball diameter | mm | 8,731 |
Mounting chamfer radius, r | mm | 1,5 |
Weight | G. | 295 |
Payment via Portmone
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After specifying payment details and confirming payment, payment for the goods will occur.
Official website of the Portmone payment system https://www.portmone.com
LADA KALINA suspension (chassis) repair at a car service center in Arkhangelsk
Replacing the rear shock absorber | from 700 rub. | ||
Replacing the front shock absorber | from 700 rub. | ||
Replacing the front wheel upper control arms | from 800 rub. | ||
Replacing the inner CV joint | from 1000 rub. | ||
replacing rear shock absorber bushings | from 200 rub. | ||
replacing rear arm bushings | from 900 rub. | ||
Replacing rear stabilizer bushings | from 400 rub. | ||
replacing front arm bushings | from 1000 rub. | ||
Replacing front stabilizer bushings | from 400 rub. | ||
replacing subframe bushings | from 1900 rub. | ||
replacing stabilizer bushings | from 500 rub. | ||
Replacing the release bearing | from 1500 rub. | ||
Replacement of dampers and suspension bearing | from 2000 rub. | ||
Replacing the rear wishbone | from 700 rub. | ||
Rear hub replacement | from 1100 rub. | ||
Replacing rear springs | from 2000 rub. | ||
Changing differential oil | from 200 rub. | ||
Replacing the lower front wheel arms | from 1000 rub. | ||
Replacing the support bearing | from 600 rub. | ||
Replacing the shock absorber support bearing | from 900 rub. | ||
Replacing the shock absorber support | from 500 rub. | ||
Replacing rear shock absorber bump stops | from 700 rub. | ||
Replacing the front right arm | from 500 rub. | ||
Replacing the outboard bearing | from 1000 rub. | ||
Replacing the rear gear input shaft bearing | from 3000 rub. | ||
Replacing the AC clutch bearing | from 2500 rub. | ||
Replacing the axle bearing | from 1400 rub. | ||
Replacing the rear suspension spring | from 600 rub. | ||
Replacing the front shock absorber spring | from 1000 rub. | ||
Replacing the front shock absorber spring | from 1000 rub. | ||
Replacing the shock absorber boot | from 500 rub. | ||
Replacing the bottom boot | from 400 rub. | ||
replacing the ball joint boot | from 100 rub. | ||
Replacing the left inner CV joint boot | from 900 rub. | ||
Replacing the right outer CV joint boot | from 900 rub. | ||
Replacing the CV joint boot | from 900 rub. | ||
replacing caliper guide boots | from 300 rub. | ||
Replacement of rear suspension reaction rods | from 700 rub. | ||
Replacing the lever | from 300 rub. | ||
Replacing the rear suspension arm | from 600 rub. | ||
Replacing the front suspension arm | from 700 rub. | ||
Replacing the parking brake lever | from 500 rub. | ||
Replacement of silent blocks of rear upper arms | from 1600 rub. | ||
Replacing the silent blocks of the front upper arms | from 1500 rub. | ||
Replacing the silent blocks of the front lower arms | from 1200 rub. | ||
Replacing stabilizer silent blocks | from 200 rub. | ||
Replacing the front suspension silent block | from 800 rub. | ||
Replacing rear suspension silent blocks | from 1300 rub. | ||
Replacing the oil seal | from 200 rub. | ||
Replacing the shock absorber strut | from 900 rub. | ||
Replacing the stabilizer link | from 300 rub. | ||
Hub replacement | from 900 rub. | ||
Replacing the wheel bearing | from 900 rub. | ||
Replacing the rear wheel bearing | from 900 rub. | ||
Replacing the front left wheel bearing | from 900 rub. | ||
Replacing the front right wheel bearing | from 900 rub. | ||
Replacing the CV joint flange | from 1200 rub. | ||
Replacing the CV joint clamp | from 200 rub. | ||
Replacing the ball joint | from 600 rub. | ||
Replacing studs | from 800 rub. | ||
replacing the stud | from 500 rub. | ||
CV joint replacement | from 900 rub. | ||
Pressing out the silent block | from 200 rub. | ||
Checking the condition of suspension parts | from 100 rub. | ||
Checking the condition of wheels and tire pressure | from 100 rub. | ||
Checking the ball joints of the steering traction mechanism and protective covers | from 100 rub. | ||
Wheel Bearing Adjustment | from 300 rub. | ||
Caliper repair | from 800 rub. | ||
Remove/install front suspension arm | from 500 rub. | ||
Grease for CV joints | from 100 rub. | ||
Removal - installation of rear beam | from 3000 rub. | ||
Removal - installation of subframe | from 1500 rub. | ||
Removal - installation of bottom boot | from 200 rub. | ||
Installing shock absorber boot dampers | from 400 rub. | ||
Installing shock absorber spacers | from 800 rub. | ||
Cleaning and lubricating the rear caliper guides | from 300 rub. | ||
Cleaning calipers, developing guides | from 500 rub. | ||
Cleaning/lubricating the front caliper guides | from 600 rub. | ||
TOTAL | — | — |
Payment via PayPal
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After specifying the information required to make the payment, you must click on the “Pay Now” button.
Official website of the PayPal payment system https://www.paypal.com
Reference data
Front wheel alignment angles under a load of 320 kg:
Front wheel camber, hail | -0°30′..+0°30′ |
Front wheel toe-in, mm | -1…+ 1 |
Longitudinal inclination of the wheel turning axis, degrees | 1-2° |
The installation angles of the front wheels of the equipped vehicle are:
Front wheel camber, hail | 0 — 1° |
Front wheel toe-in, mm | 0,5-2,5 |
Longitudinal inclination of the wheel turning axis, degrees | 1-2° |
Tightening torques for threaded connections:
Name of units and parts | Thread | Tightening torque, N-M (kgf-m) |
Wheel bolts | M12×1.25 | 65,2-92,6 (6,7-9,5) |
Front wheel bearing nut | M20x1.5 | 225,6-247,2 (23-25,2) |
Bolts securing the ball joint to the steering knuckle | M10×1.25 | 49,0 -61,7 (5,0-6,3) |
Nut securing the ball pin to the lever | M12x1.25 | 66,6-82,3 (6,8-8,4) |
Adjusting bolt nut (with eccentric) of the front suspension strut | M12x1.25 | 77,5-96,1 (7,9-9,8) |
Nut of the bolt securing the front suspension strut to the steering knuckle | M12x1.25 | 77,5-96,1 (7,9-9,8) |
Nuts securing the front suspension strut rod to the upper support | M 14×1.5 | 65,9-81,2 (6,7-8,3) |
Nuts securing the upper support of the front suspension strut to the body | M8 | 19,6-24,2 (2-2,5) |
Nut of the bolt securing the front suspension arm to the body | M12×1.25 | 77,5-96,1 (7,9-9,8) |
Front suspension extension nuts | M16x1.25 | 160-176,4 (16,3-18) |
Extension bracket mounting bolts | M10x1.25 | 42,1-52,0 (4,3-5,3) |
Nut of the bolt securing the stabilizer bar to the front suspension arm | M10x1.25 | 42,1-52,0 (4,3-5,3) |
Nuts securing the stabilizer bar to the body | M8 | 19,6-24,2 (2-2,5) |
Bolt nut for the lower shock absorber mounting to the rear suspension arm | M12x1.25 | 66,6-82,3 (6,8-8,4) |
Payment via WebMoney
After selecting payment via WebMoney, the payment system will launch, where you need to select the payment method: bank card or WebMoney wallet.
If you already have a WebMoney wallet, then you need to log into it and make a payment.
If you do not have a WebMoney wallet and you want to pay in another way, you need to select any of the methods that WebMoney offers and make the payment
After specifying payment details and confirming payment, payment for the goods will occur.
Official website of the WebMoney payment system https://www.webmoney.ru/
Let's sum it up
The front suspension in LADA Kalina is quite simple and reliable. Its design was “worked out” on the previous generation of the model. The manufacturer met the customers halfway in this matter and made the chassis of the Russian car suitable for repairs.
Also, as we have seen, the option of tuning the suspension is possible, the main thing is to know the design of the front suspension, this will also be useful if replacing the silent blocks is necessary. This solution is popular among owners, because it allows you to improve and balance the chassis characteristics, which in turn gives comfort while driving.
Downloading a book
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If you are already registered on our website, then simply follow the link to your personal account.
The book you purchased will be in your personal account, from where you can always download it.
Please note that after making the payment, you need to return back from the payment system website to the KrutilVertel website.
If for some reason you did not return back to the site and closed the payment system tab with a message about the successful completion of the payment, please let us know - we will send you a letter indicating access to download the book.
Sports and 5 door hatchback
A five-door hatchback version in the Lada Kalina line appeared not so long ago. Changes were made not only to the appearance of the body. The model was equipped with the latest engines that meet all European standards regarding toxicity.
This model is ideal for city roads, since it has a power unit with ESVT. This ensures high speed characteristics with minimal fuel consumption.
Thanks to its compact body, the length of which is only 3.893 m, the Lada Kalina hatchback maneuvers perfectly among traffic.
Installation of standard fog lights on Kalina 11183
Modern equipment makes this model even more attractive to motorists.
Problems when paying with bank cards
Sometimes difficulties may arise when paying with Visa/MasterCard bank cards. The most common of them:
- There is a restriction on the card for paying for online purchases
- A plastic card is not intended for making payments online.
- The plastic card is not activated for making payments online.
- There are not enough funds on the plastic card.
In order to solve these problems, you need to call or write to the technical support of the bank where you are served. Bank specialists will help you resolve them and make payments.
That's basically it. The entire process of paying for a book in PDF format on car repair on our website takes 1-2 minutes.
If you still have any questions, you can ask them using the feedback form, or write us an email at [email protected]
Lada Kalina - replacing the support bearing with your own hands
Before disassembling and removing the Kalina front strut with upper supports, be sure to study the structure of the unit. The diagram shows the serial numbers (articles) of the front suspension components.
To remove the support bearings of the front struts of the Lada Kalina you will need a set of tools: 1. A set of open-end or ring wrenches: 9, 17, 19, 22. 2. A 13 socket with a ratchet. 3. Steering wheel end puller, vice, torque wrench (if possible). 4. Jack. 5. Shock absorber spring clamps. 6. Pliers. 7. Hammer. 8. WD-40 lubricant.
How to remove the support bearing on Kalina - step by step guide
Replacing the Kalina front strut supports begins preparing the car. Place the car on a flat surface, if there is a lift or pit available. Engage first gear and release the parking brake. Dismantling sequence in order:
- We unscrew the wheel bolts, then raise the car with a jack or a lift as in our case.
- We gain access to the brake disc, but you don’t need to remove it, nor do you need to unscrew the hub locknut.
- Let's move on to the swing arm and tie rod. First, remove the cotter pin from the fastener. Next, unscrew the nut itself.
- After this, use a tip remover to press it out of the hole in the lever or, as a last resort, use a hammer. We install the device, tighten the thread and remove the tip.