If while driving you hear knocking, especially on roads covered with uneven surfaces, and strange sounds, then you should. This is an important element of the car, and its breakdown is highly undesirable. But a knocking noise when driving indicates a faulty part.
Both the VAZ Kalina and other cars of the brand have a very similar design of this element. Only the algorithm for dismantling and installation is slightly different. Therefore, now we will consider the process of tightening and replacing this element manually, without resorting to special services.
For cars like Kalina, constant repair work on units and components is commonplace. Moreover, even the most reliable spare parts tend to break. This makes replacement and repair of the steering rack virtually guaranteed for any car enthusiast of this brand.
Element design
The design of the steering rack on the Kalina is as follows: rotational motion is transmitted to the drive gear by the steering wheel using a column. The gear is movably connected to the rack. She sets it in motion, transferring her energy. The wheels turn using rods, which are attached at their ends to the rack.
So, the design of the steering rack is quite simple. Therefore, there should be no problems with the process of replacing or adjusting this element yourself. But there is one element that complicates the process. We are talking about a pressure spring. It is made in the shape of a cone, but with use it loses elasticity. This significantly reduces its functionality.
This part needs to be constantly tightened. But here you need a special key, and the process itself is very complicated. But more on that a little later.
Repair work involving dismantling of parts
Well, after reviewing the design of the device, it’s time to get to work. First you need to put the front part of the Kalina on a jack and fix the wheels using a stop. After this, the bolt responsible for the splined connection of the column is unscrewed in the cabin.
After dismantling the wheels, you need to remove the steering knuckle nuts. Under the hood you need to remove the battery and heat deflector. The first part of the repair is completed by removing the steering rack by unscrewing the nuts that secure it to the body.
Having squeezed the rack casing into a vice, you need to move it in different directions, thus diagnosing the presence of play. If it is present, you need to tighten the spring nut. But it cannot be tightened more than 10 degrees. After completing the procedure, you need to repeat the test. You need to continue until the problem is resolved.
If there are doubts regarding the serviceability of any element of the rack, it must be changed immediately. Otherwise, you will have to remove and disassemble the part again. New spare parts can be easily purchased in a repair kit. After checking all the elements and making sure that it is in good condition, you need to reassemble the car in the reverse order.
How to disassemble and repair a rack when jammed?
The repair procedure, like replacing the steering rack, begins with disassembling the unit. To perform a set of actions, we purchase a repair kit.
- To disassemble the rack, unscrew the adjusting nut and then remove the thrust bushing. If at the moment we are experiencing difficulties, then we use a mallet, with which we apply gentle blows to the rack body.
- We dismantle the side plugs along with the boot. First cut off the plastic fasteners.
- We must replace the boot with a new product.
- We also use a mallet to remove the shaft from the rack body.
- Inside the freed crankcase we find a plastic sleeve, which we remove using a screwdriver. We also replace this component with a new analogue (present in the repair kit).
- We clean the internal cavity of the rack housing from old grease. Wash and dry.
- Apply new grease. We lubricate the gear pair with special care.
- We inspect all other components of the rack and pinion mechanism and, if wear is suspected, we replace them. Removing the steering wheel in Lada Kalina works like this.
1. Disconnect the battery.
2. Turn off the airbags. Loosen the clamps and move them to the side.
3. Disconnect the two-wire horn connector.
4. We move on to the steering shaft and in the area where the arrow is present, we outline the location (until removal).
5. We loosen the steering wheel nut, but do not completely unscrew it.
6. We take hold of the steering wheel and, using rocking movements to the sides, move it close to the indicated nut.
7. Now we align the wheels and place the steering wheel in a strictly straight position.
8. We remove the pin and then insert it into the switch block located directly under the steering wheel. At this moment, the steering wheel rim should be clearly fixed.
9. After removing the wires, we proceed to removing the steering wheel itself.
10. We check the integrity of all elements.
11. Assembly is carried out using the reverse algorithm.
Repair of a part without dismantling
But it is possible to tighten the steering rack without removing it. Although the official manual from the manufacturer excludes this possibility, many car owners prefer to repair the part without completely dismantling it.
With this method, the adjustment bolt can be reached by descending into the inspection pit. Next you should find it in the front of the car. The tightening is done clockwise. If you manage to reach the element from above, then pull it clockwise. You should immediately check the play through the steering wheel.
If all operations are done correctly, but knocks and noise remain, then the problem is in the components of the rack. In this case, you need to buy a repair kit for the rack, or buy a new part and completely replace it. But a complete replacement is already an extreme, which should be taken only if it is impossible to carry out repairs. At first, the replacement will take 3 hours. But the more often this operation is performed, the more the process will speed up.
The service life of the steering rack can be extended. If the car is equipped with a hydraulic booster, you need to control the quantitative parameter of the oil level. If necessary, top up the latter to the required level. It would be a good idea to regularly change the tie rod boots. Ignoring this procedure will result in wear and fluid leakage. As a result, the entire steering mechanism may break.
The wear of oil seals, as well as seals, also matters for the steering mechanism. Therefore, these elements should be constantly monitored and checked for wear. If the seal of the rack is broken, the damaged part should be quickly replaced.
Will help increase the service life of the part and driving style. Using the brakes before hitting potholes and pits will not only not be superfluous, but will also have a very positive effect on wear. This will save you both the wheels and the steering rack. Extreme neglect of this rule can lead to complete breakdown beyond repair.
The steering of any car requires care and timely maintenance. If you make one mistake or inattention, it will affect the car's handling. This is not only and not so much comfort and ease of operation, but our safety and that of those around us. Therefore, if there are signs of inappropriate behavior of the car, you need to seek help. In most cases, this is what owners of cars with a complex and expensive design do, but if we have our own VAZ, then we can do it on our own. Kalina is an inexpensive, reliable and unpretentious car. Like any equipment, it needs care and timely maintenance of the steering system in general, and the steering rack in particular.
Diagnostics and signs of malfunction of the Kalina rack
Before you treat, you need to know what hurts. Before you start repairing the Kalina steering rack, you need to make sure that it is to blame for:
If these signs appear, most likely it is the rack that needs repair, but you can easily verify this - open the hood and pull the steering rod that comes from the rack. If it dangles in the rack housing, everything is clear and further diagnostics are pointless. We go to the store and buy a repair kit for the Kalina steering rack.
Tools and repair kits
To fully repair the steering rack, we will have to completely dismantle it and carry out inspection and defect detection. As a rule, all rubber and plastic parts of the rack will need to be replaced, so in order not to waste time, we’ll take care of the repair kit right away. It should include all rubber seals, anthers, two bearings - needle and ball, and a plastic bushing. This is an incomplete set.
To overhaul the rack, in addition to all of the above, it must also include the steering rack itself and the gear with the shaft. If your steering mechanism is in more or less decent condition, then a small set will be enough, but if you are not sure about this, then you will have to take a full set. But in any case it is cheaper than buying a new rack.
To work, we will need a regular set of tools plus several pullers, which it wouldn’t hurt to have for the future. This is a tie rod pin puller and a standard two-legged puller for pressing out bearings.
Removing the steering rack and disassembling it
Now that we are financially prepared to repair the rack, we should start removing it. To do this, we will clear the area in which the unit is located from dust and dirt, and provide access to the fastening of the rack and steering rods. We propose to carry out the work in this order:
We have the rack in our hands, all that remains is to wash it thoroughly, wipe it and clamp the crankcase in a vice through wooden blocks.
We remove the steering rods, having previously loosened the bolts. It is more convenient to do this with the rack removed, because when installing it back, installing the rods can cause additional trouble. We cut off the clamps securing them to the crankcase from the anthers and remove them, assessing the state of wear. It is better to replace them with new ones during assembly, even if they look decent. Rubber is rubber. After this, the central boot with corrugation will be removed. It is also better to replace it with a new one.
Most likely, the picture you see will be unsightly - the dirt mixed with old grease has done its dirty work, so without despair, we tear the rail apart to the end. Unscrew the bearing cover, remove the spring and metal stop, plastic bushing and all seals. We tried to present this as clearly as possible in the photo.
Correct assembly of the steering rack
All removed parts must be washed and wiped, and those that are in the repair kit must be disposed of. If the rack itself does not look very tired, then you can not remove it, but simply wash it and coat it well right in the crankcase. The same applies to the gear shaft. If the bearing has even the slightest play, it should be replaced using a two-legged puller. A very important point. If you want the steering wheel to be level, you need to align the marks on the rack and the crankcase when assembling, as shown in the figure.
Due to wear of individual parts or breakdown, repair of the Kalina steering rack may be required. A driver who closely monitors the technical condition of the vehicle will pay attention to the slightest malfunction. These include:
- knock;
- too tight;
- inability to change the position of the car's wheels in space.
If you quickly diagnose the problem, the repair will be quick and inexpensive.
Adjusting the spring and power steering
Very often, the cause of a knocking sound when turning the steering wheel is a weakening of the pressure spring. It provides the required force for pressing the steering rack gear against the main shaft gear, which is set at the factory by adjusting and fixing the spring. As the vehicle is used, the spring loses its elasticity and relaxes.
In order to increase the pressing force of the spring, it is necessary to tighten it, which is done after disconnecting the steering mechanism, but without removing the steering rack. Repairing the steering rack in this case consists of setting the required gap between the rack and the shaft gear. The steering rack is installed in the middle position and is secured against movement.
The rubber plug is removed, and the indicator probe is placed in the hole of the stop adjusting nut so that it comes into contact with the rack stop. It is better to use a dial indicator. Then, turning the gear shaft that pushes the stop, the indicator measures the size of the stop's movement. The length of movement should not exceed 0.05 mm.
If this value is exceeded, it is eliminated by turning the adjusting nut. The steering rack is fixed in the position corresponding to the required clearance, and the ease of rotation of the pinion shaft is checked within the entire possible movement of the rack.
The adjustment nut is rotated using a special wrench for adjusting VAZ steering racks. It is not recommended to tighten the nut too much, which can have a negative effect when turning the steering wheel at maximum speed. If there is play when turning the steering wheel, the spring can be tightened by practically selecting the correct force.
In this case, initially the adjusting nut is turned by 20-25°, and the presence of knocking is checked when the rack is turned. If the noise is not eliminated, then tighten the nut again by 10-15°, and so on until the knocking noise is eliminated. If tightening the spring does not help, the steering rack needs to be repaired.
Adjusting Kalina's electric power steering is best done after removing the steering rack, but it can be done without dismantling with some inconvenience. The car is placed on the repair pit so that from below there is access to the mounting of the front part of the amplifier.
The clamping nut is tightened by turning clockwise from below, and when tightening the nut from above, respectively, counterclockwise. For the purpose of prevention, you should check the condition of the oil seal, since when the steering wheel is turned too much, the oil seals quickly wear out. At the same time, all elements are lubricated, especially the steering rod boots.
Correct fault determination
- The right edge of the rack should shine, otherwise a steering rack repair kit is needed.
- The presence of even the slightest traces of rust, which will act as an abrasive material, is not allowed.
- You should check the integrity of the bushing: if it knocks or shows signs of wear, it needs to be replaced.
- It is necessary to carefully inspect all the fasteners: if places with loose clamps are found, tighten them.
You need to be very careful with the last factor. Excessive physical force will only do harm here. If you decide to diagnose and replace it yourself, you must use lubricant and a wrench. A heavily threaded bolt or nut simply requires the use of oil. In some cases, it can be moved 1-3 divisions, but do not despair. This is enough for a visual inspection.
If no signs of physical wear or rust are detected, you can return the nut to its place with your own hands. This will require a wrench and extreme concentration. Carefully pull the element to the desired level and fix it. There is 1 practical tip associated with the mentioned element: when driving intensively, you need to tighten the steering rack nut every 6 months.
There shouldn’t be any difficulties, because information on how to tighten the part is contained in the vehicle’s operating instructions.
Causes of steering malfunctions
| Cause of malfunction | Remedy |
| Increased free play of the steering wheel | |
| Loosening the nuts securing the ball pins of the rods | Check the presence of the cotter pin, tighten the nuts and secure them |
| Increased clearance in ball joints of rods | Replace the rod ends |
| Wear of rubber-metal joints of rods | Replace the rods |
| Increased clearance between rack stop and nut | Replace worn parts and adjust the steering mechanism |
| Noise (knocking) in the steering | |
| Loosening the nuts of the ball joints of the rods | Check and tighten the nuts |
| Increased clearance between rack stop and nut | Replace worn parts, adjust the steering mechanism |
| Loose steering gear | Tighten the steering gear nuts |
| Stiff steering wheel rotation | |
| Damage to the upper suspension strut bearing | Replace the support |
| Damage to the support sleeve or rack stop | Replace damaged parts, apply lubricant |
| Low pressure in front tires | Set normal pressure |
| Damage to parts of ball joints of rods | Replace damaged parts |
| Damage to parts of the suspension shock absorber strut | Replace or repair the suspension strut |
| The bearings of the upper steering column shaft are damaged | Replace bearings |
| Electric power steering is faulty | Replace the electric booster and shaft assembly |
Vehicle Maintenance
Before replacing the steering rack on Kalina, you need to decide on the desired number of revolutions - 3 or 4. This indicator characterizes the maximum possible number of turns from the extreme right to the extreme left position of the steering wheel. If the vehicle is not equipped with a power steering system, then the steering rack is selected by 4 turns. A lower value will make it more difficult to control the car.
You can cope with replacing the steering rack on Kalina yourself in a few hours. First you need to buy a new original steering rack. It’s not worth saving on it by choosing Chinese analogues. The initial benefit will lead to many problems in the future. The retail chain offers a set with steering rods, so you won’t be able to buy just the steering rack separately.
Experienced drivers recommend paying attention to ensuring that the steering rack has suitable tips for a specific vehicle model. Even with minor differences in size, installation will be possible. Problems will arise during the adjustment stage.
Steering rack for viburnum
Having purchased the necessary part, it must be thoroughly lubricated. Manufacturers of the Lada Kalina car do not always supply the vehicle with a sufficient amount of lubricants. To perform the described procedure, you will need nylon ties, with which the rubber boots of the slats are secured. The minimum length of the ties is 28 cm.
Removal of old rods is carried out using a wrench whose head size is 15 mm. As an additional means, a piece of steel pipe is used. Further repair of the steering rack or its replacement includes removing the anthers and plastic ties. If a visual inspection shows that the new rack bushing is running dry, it must be thoroughly lubricated. Sometimes it requires a lift.
Removing the Kalina steering rack
Required
: heads '10', '13', '15', '17', '27', spanner '19', pliers, mounting blade, hammer, flat screwdriver.
Inside, unscrew the nut and remove the bolt securing the lower cardan joint to the steering gear shaft (steering rack), using a 13-inch socket. If the bolt turns, hold it with a 13mm wrench.
In the engine compartment:
We hang up the front of the car and remove the wheels. To remove the steering rack without tie rods
, they should be disconnected:
To remove the steering rack along with the steering rods
, then you need to disconnect the tie rod ends from the swing arms of the shock absorber struts, to do this:
We remove the Kalina steering rack along with the rods:
Before installation, check that the rail is installed in the middle position. To do this, using sliding pliers, use the flat on the gear shaft to rotate the shaft in any direction until it stops, then turn the shaft in the opposite direction two full turns and turn the shaft so that the flat on the shaft is located vertically on the right side along the direction of the car. Otherwise, the installation of the rack is carried out in the reverse order.
Thus, it will take at least 1 hour to replace the steering rack on Kalina. If it is not possible to repair it, then you will have to buy a new one. The steering rack of the Lada Kalina is the same as the rack of the Priora or VAZ 2110-2112 of the new model and has a catalog number: 11183-3400010 (rasp inside 21100-3401068). Price approximately 3500 rub. For Kalina Sport:
- 11183-3400010-10 inside rasp 11183-3401068-00 (3.1 turns)
- 11183-3400010-12 inside rasp 11183-3401068-01
- 11183-3400010-01 without EUR inside rasp 21100-3401068-00 (4.1 turns)
- 11183-3400010-10 with EUR inside rasp 11183-3401223-00
Steering rack Kalina 2: 11183-3401068
By the way, do you know how to adjust the steering rack?
Hello, dear readers of the blog site
.
Today I bring to your attention a detailed photo report on such an event as replacing the Kalina steering rack
(steering rack 2110, 2112 of the new model).
Now it’s June 2014 and the odometer of my car shows almost 170 thousand km, and a year ago, at 144 thousand km, I did it and now drum rolls are coming from the steering mechanism again. I must say that repairing a steering rack is not a pleasant task, and I would like to get rid of the problem for a long time, which is why I decided to replace the entire steering rack of Kalina
.
Strictly speaking, replace
the whole mechanism, in my case, was not necessary.
It was necessary to replace only the rack
(the so-called
“rasp”
) and the plastic bushing in which the right end of this “rasp” moves, but I was unable to buy it separately, so I decided to replace the entire steering mechanism assembly. This is what the rack (“rasp”) looks like when fully extended to the right from the steering mechanism. As you can see, the right end of my Kalina's old steering rack was completely covered in rust.
The cause of knocking noises in the steering rack is a plastic bushing
, fixing the right end of the rail.
When the bushing stops tightly fitting the rack, the latter begins to dangle, making a drum roll on uneven surfaces. I think that after last year’s repair, the bushing on my Kalina became loose due to rust
that covered the right end of the steering rack. Last year, while repairing the steering mechanism, I replaced the bushing, cleaned the rack and lubricated it thoroughly, but after a couple of thousand kilometers the knocking in the rack began to return, and after another 5 thousand, the rack was already knocking no less than before the repair.
Causes of extraneous sounds, removing the rack
Situations often arise when, when turning the steering wheel of the Lada Kalina, you can hear something knocking and rattling. Such extraneous sounds can be heard constantly or appear after a long period of parking. If something rattles in the steering mechanism, then you should find out the causes of these noises. They often occur due to wear on the ball joint. Such a defect may result in the impossibility of traffic movement, and the part will need to be replaced in a timely manner.
The cause of knocking or squeaking of the steering wheel is sometimes damage to the grenade. If the steering racks are faulty, in addition to knocking, the steering wheel kicks back or signs of the steering wheel biting appear. In this case, the steering rack will need to be adjusted or repaired, and possibly replaced. Noises appear when the shock absorber bushings wear out. The knocking noise may be caused by loosening of the bolts securing the crankcase.
The design of the Kalina steering system is such that tightening the steering rack and adjusting the spring can only be done after removing the rack. It is removed in the following order. The front part of the car is raised using a lift or trestles. From the interior side, the bolt for the splined fastening of the steering column is turned out.
The mounting location is located below the pedal block. The front wheels of the car are removed. Then the nuts of the rotary cams are unscrewed and removed. The battery is removed from under the hood along with the platform. The heat reflector is removed. Finally, the nuts securing the steering rack to the body are unscrewed. After this, the rail can be removed out.
When disassembling, adjusting and repairing the Kalina steering rack, you will need the following tool:
- special key for adjusting the VAZ rack;
- dial-type gap indicator;
- screwdriver, pliers, set of socket wrenches and wrenches;
- hammer;
- mallet;
- steering wheel end remover;
- calipers;
- chisel;
- brush.
Any extraneous sounds when turning the steering wheel should make the driver wary. It is necessary to immediately find out the reasons for their appearance. Repairing and adjusting the Kalina steering rack can improve driving safety.
Diagnostics of the Kalina steering rack
So, dear readers, by replacing the bushing, repair the Kalina steering rack
It is only worth it if the right end of the rail is in perfect condition. If there is rust on it (as it was for me), then it will act as an abrasive and will “eat” the nylon bushing quite quickly. The right edge of the “rasp” should shine like a mirror, only then it will not break the sleeve.
Check the condition of the right edge of the rack
quite simple. To do this, you need to carefully cut off the plastic clamp that secures the long right boot, then remove this boot and, turning the steering wheel to the left, visually inspect the right end of the rack that has emerged from the body.
I advise you to carry out such a diagnosis
before removing the rack from the vehicle. And in general, if you are going to solve the problem with the rack yourself, then I sincerely wish you to remove and install it only once, because the process of installing the rack is quite complicated and can cause discomfort, especially if it needs to be repeated.
In the article about I already mentioned how to determine that a knock
comes precisely from
the Kalina steering rack
.
To do this, open the hood and give the steering rod a good tug with your hand
.
A serviceable steering rack bushing
will not allow the rods to move even a millimeter, but with a “broken” bushing, the rods will shake.
At the beginning of this video you can clearly see the play of the steering rack after a run of 164 t.km, and at the end - a new steering rack after a run of 3 t.km.
As you can see, there is no play on the new rack. If
On your Kalina,
the steering rods do not hang out
, which means
it is NOT the rack that is knocking
.
Signs of a faulty steering rack
Steering rack repair kit
Before you begin repairing an element, you need to accurately determine that it is the steering rack on your car that has failed. For this, there are indirect and direct signs that will indicate the part. Of course, it is best to carry out diagnostics at a specialized car service center, but you can try with your own hands, for example, tighten the steering rack, but here you need to act carefully.
So, let's look at the main signs of a faulty steering rack:
- When turning the steering wheel there is a knocking noise under the hood.
- Longitudinal play of the steering wheel.
- Increased effort when turning the steering wheel.
- Oil stains under the car.
- Steering wheel sticks when turning.
All these signs are direct if the steering rack is faulty, which will be the first signs that the element needs to be diagnosed and repaired.
Causes of malfunction
General view of the steering
There are not many reasons for steering rack failure, but you need to know them. Timely maintenance, as well as diagnostics of the unit, can extend the life of the element.
Let's consider the main causes of steering rack malfunctions:
- Wear of elements that make up the rack.
- Damage due to an accident when the impact hit the wheel.
- Other reasons that caused the rack to start leaking.
All these reasons become the reason for repairing the steering unit.
Design characteristics
In order to repair the steering rack, you need to know its design and the elements that make up it. Let's look at the design diagram of the unit:
Steering rack diagram
Steering rack parts: 1 – rack bushing ring; 2 – rack support sleeve; 3 – steering gear housing; 4 – roller bearing; 5 – drive gear; 6 – ball bearing; 7 – retaining ring; 8 – protective washer; 9 – sealing ring; 10 – bearing nut; 11 – lock washer; 12 – boot; 13 – rack; 14 – protective cap; 15 – rack stop; 16 – sealing ring; 17 – retaining ring; 18 – stop nut; 19 – clamp; 20 – protective cover; 21 – inner tie rod end; 22 – connecting plate; 23 – locking plate; 24 – bolt securing the rod to the rack; A - mark on the boot; B - mark on the crankcase
What will be needed for repairs?
For restoration work related to the steering rack, a repair kit will be required. Usually, they cannot be found in specialized stores, and car enthusiasts, as a rule, go to the car market, where they can purchase a set of spare parts. In terms of price, this is much cheaper than buying a new rail.
The steering rack repair kit can be purchased either individually or as an assembly.
Repair kit for steering rack manufactured by Ricardo
2110-3403090-11 is the catalog number of a complete steering gear repair kit for the Lada Kalina. You can buy bushings and plastic inserts separately, but it is not recommended, since the quality of the products may be different, and accordingly, the wear on the left and right sides may differ.
Replacing the Kalina steering mechanism assembly
So, dear readers, I will describe how I changed the Kalina steering rack
assembled. The day before, after calling a couple of stores, I found out that a regular original 4-turn rack would cost me 4 thousand rubles, and a version of a factory 3.1-turn rack would cost no less than 4,700 rubles. Heading to the store, I intended to buy a 3.1-turn rack, but on the sales floor I suddenly realized that the sporty ambience of the 3.1-turn rack was of no use to me, and the standard factory 4-turn rack suited me completely. In addition, I was also pleased with the opportunity to save money; in general, an original factory 4-turn rack was purchased, identical to that installed from the factory.
If anyone doesn’t know, then 4 revolutions is the number of revolutions of the steering wheel from the extreme right position to the extreme left and vice versa. My car is not equipped with an electric power steering, so with a 3.1-turn rack, turning the steering wheel would be somewhat more difficult than with a 4-turn rack. But with a 3.1-turn rack, the steering wheel becomes more sensitive, for example, less steering movement is required to avoid obstacles. We can say that the rack is 3.1 turns
more
suitable for drivers with a sporty driving style
.
Original steering mechanism
It’s not sold without tie rods, so I had to buy all this stuff as a set, although
I still need to replace
the tie rod ends The steering tips
on the new rack, by the way, differ from the “native” Kalinov ones, with which there are difficulties when adjusting the camber. The rail I bought was equipped with 10's lugs, which made me personally very happy. But this time I still won’t change the steering rods and ends; we’ll talk about this some other time.
When buying a new rack assembly, I prepared in advance to completely disassemble it and thoroughly lubricate it
, because
for some reason they save lubricant at AvtoVAZ
.
If you are not interested in additional lubrication of the rack, then you can skip this moment, otherwise I recommend that you disassemble the new rack
and lubricate it
in advance
, before removing the old rack from the car. For example, no matter how hard I tried, I couldn’t unscrew the stop nut on the new rack - the key failed, and I couldn’t go get another key, since by that time the car was already without a steering mechanism.
The tool that I used when replacing the Kalina steering rack
, described in more detail in the article about, you can look there, here I will only give a photo.
If you disassemble and lubricate the new steering mechanism
, then you will need
nylon ties
to secure the rubber boots of the rack.
The length of plastic ties should be at least 28-30 cm
.
Since the steering rods
I’m leaving the old ones for now, but I’ll put the new ones aside for now. To remove them from the new rail, I use a powerful wrench with a 15mm head and reinforced with a half-meter piece of steel pipe.
As you can see, the bushing
in the new factory rack it works almost “dry”.
On the side of the worm shaft the situation is somewhat better, but it wouldn’t hurt to add lubricant here too, especially from below, where the rack
stop presses
against the worm .
No matter how hard I tried, I could still unscrew the rack stop nut
I never succeeded.
The key that helped me out during last year's repairs, this time lost its position and began to bend at the junction with the octagon. Either the key had softened since last summer, or AvtoVAZ had tightened the nut too tightly, but I only managed to unscrew it half a turn. At the same time, the old steering rack
had already been removed from the car and options such as going for a new key or postponing repairs did not suit me.
In general, I tightened the nut to the maximum, loosened it 2 notches (as required by the instructions) and decided to lubricate the rack without completely disassembling it
.
Turning the worm shaft first in one direction and then in the other, I filled the rack with half a tube of lithol inside, so much so that it began to climb out of there. This is what happened.
Great! New steering rack for Kalina
It is prepared for use and can be installed on a car. The removal and installation process is described in detail in the article on, let’s repeat briefly. First of all, we remove the battery and the pad under it, disconnect the pad from the wires screwed to it, which are secured with a tricky clamp (pictured on the right).
It is advisable to clean the nuts securing the rack to the engine shield from dirt and spill it with “Vedashka” or kerosene in advance. This is a very important point!
These nuts must be unscrewed
with great care
, without applying force, otherwise you can easily twist the pin welded to the body and then replacing the rack can become a big problem.
You will have to look for a suitable bolt, drill a hole in the body and insert the bolt from the inside. In general, be careful when unscrewing and tightening the four nuts that secure the steering gear to the body
!
Removing the locking plate
and with a powerful wrench with a 15mm head, unscrew
the steering rods
from the rack.
It’s good if by this point the penetrating lubricant has already done its job, because now it’s time to unscrew the steering rack from the engine shield
.
I remind you: you need to do this literally with two fingers
, without any extra effort. If it doesn’t work, then it’s better to clean the threads again, spray with WD-40 and wait a couple of minutes.
Unscrewing the steering gear
from the engine shield, go into the cabin and completely unscrew
the bolt
that tightens the flange of the elastic coupling of the steering shaft.
Flange
to loosen it
with something , then it will easily detach from the steering shaft. You can loosen it, for example, with a powerful screwdriver or a small pry bar.
Now, carefully move the steering mechanism
from the engine shield, trying to disconnect it from the steering shaft. If the flange tightening bolt is unscrewed and the flange is loosened, then this will happen easily and naturally.
Having disconnected the rack housing and slightly raised the left front wheel with a jack (it is not necessary to lift it off the ground), we remove the steering mechanism through the opening in the wheel arch. If you do this in the garage, then leave at least a meter of free space
to the left of the left front wheel.
Here it is - the original steering mechanism
, installed on the car at the plant in Togliatti.
We remove the fastening parts and move all this stuff to the new steering rack
.
New steering rack
ready for installation on the car.
Through the same opening in the left front wheel arch we place a new steering mechanism
into the engine compartment and install it in place. And here, dear readers, is where the fun begins. If you work together, then it will be easy for you to connect the rack with the steering shaft, but doing it alone is quite difficult, but I will now explain to you how to proceed in order to do everything quickly and keep your nerves in order.
Leaning against the steering gear
to the engine shield, lightly tighten the lower nuts securing the
steering rack
to the body. Do not tighten the upper part of the fasteners; let the body hang freely on the lower nuts.
To make the splined part of the worm shaft easier to connect with the steering shaft flange, I recommend that you lightly lubricate the connection point with some thick lubricant (for example, lithol), this way the parts will connect much more readily.
the steering rack removed
Kalina's steering column has free longitudinal movement. To make it easier to connect the elastic coupling flange with the rack shaft, I pulled the steering wheel towards me and it moved a couple of centimeters into the cabin.
Now, using a screwdriver, we combine the rack shaft and the flange of the elastic coupling of the steering shaft. Attention! The flange slot should be approximately in the middle of the ground part of the rack shaft.
This is the only way you will be able to fix the flange with a coupling bolt and not damage the thread of this bolt.
Don’t worry about the position of the steering wheel; it’s easier to move it later to the desired position than to try now to guess the correct position of the flange on the shaft. When the shaft engages the flange of the elastic coupling, turn them so that the groove on the shaft is vertical
.
As you can see, the rack shaft and coupling flange are at an angle to each other, which is why it is difficult to align them. We solve the problem this way: use a screwdriver or a small pry bar to tilt the flange, trying to align its axis with the axis of the rack shaft
. It all looks something like this:
When the coupling flange is on the same axis with the rack shaft, you can lightly hit the center of the steering wheel and the elastic coupling flange will slide onto the steering rack shaft.
.
Check. The shaft should fit into the flexible coupling flange clamp like this.
As soon as the Shaft is in place, return to the engine compartment and tighten the upper nuts securing the rack to the body. Attention! Be careful when tightening these nuts!
Don’t forget,
it’s better to under-tighten them than to over-tighten them!
If it was not possible to align the shaft with the flange the first time, then you need to try again and then everything will definitely work out. And here's another little tip: when you tighten these nuts, lubricate the protruding part of the threads of the studs with grease. Then the studs will not sour even after several years, and you can always unscrew the rail without tearing off the studs.
Now is the important moment
! If you now try to tighten the flange coupling bolt with a wrench, you can easily damage the threads on it, and this will certainly happen if the bolt does not fit into the recess on the shaft. This is exactly what happened to me, so I had to tighten the flange with a thinner bolt and nut and then go to the spare parts store. The ball joint mounting bolt from the classics turned out to be suitable; it cost 5 rubles, so I bought several in stock at once.
So, if you want to avoid this annoying nuisance, then make sure that there are no obstacles in the way of the coupling bolt. Firstly
When the flange is connected to the shaft, the notch of the steering shaft must be in the right place - where the pinch bolt will be located.
And secondly
, push the steering wheel away from you so that it presses against the plastic trim of the steering column, it should look like this:
In this case, the flange will fit onto the steering gear shaft as much as possible:
Now you need to tighten the coupling bolt, but only by hand. There is NO NEED to tighten it with a wrench!
To avoid damaging the threads of the flange coupling bolt, it must be tightened by hand, without using a wrench.
If everything is done correctly, the bolt will tighten without problems. If something interferes, then you need to eliminate the cause, otherwise you will only damage the thread, and you still won’t be able to tighten the bolt.
Now that the bolt is tightened, but not yet tightening the flange, you need to push the steering wheel back towards you so that a gap will form under it again, otherwise the steering wheel will rub against the steering column cover with a squeak. So, with both hands, pull the steering wheel towards you, you can even pull it slightly.
Everything worked out? Great! Now you can tighten the coupling bolt with a spanner.
At the next stage, using a meter wrench with a 15mm head, we fasten the steering rods to the rack and do not forget to install a locking plate over the bolt heads.
Finally, here's the new steering rack.
installed on the car, which means that now is the time to check its condition by pulling its “whiskers” with your hand. The steering rods must remain motionless, no matter how you try to move them.
Then you can collect everything and put it in its place. We install the platform under the battery and screw the wires to it from below. We screw the thermal protection to the body, put the air duct in its place and tighten it with clamps. We install the battery, connect all the connectors, if for ease of operation you disconnected them.
How to tighten the steering rack on Kalina Video
Steering rack, Kalina: repair, lifting yourself
If you begin to hear a knocking sound while driving (especially when driving on rough roads), it is likely that this will indicate a defect in something as fundamental as the control tire. VAZ Kalina, like our client, has driven other cars of this brand, and has the appropriate design for this part.
But the way to disassemble it without installing it may be slightly different. Therefore, they will now study how the ascent is performed. Not a replacement. steering rack (Kalina VAZ) without assistance.
Content
Features of design elements
For cars like Kalina, constant repair of some parts not assembled is a normal condition. Even the most reliable part can fail once, since the control bus awaits repair by all owners. Kalina has the following structure of this mechanism:
- The steering wheel transmits rotational motion through the column to the drive gear.
- The latter, having a movable connection with the rail, transfers this energy to it without forcing it to move.
- The ends of the rods that rotate the wheels are attached to the control rack.
Compression spring
As you can see, the control rack (Kalina 2117) has a very conventional design. So the setup is not a replacement, there shouldn't be any problems. This is true, but the Kalinovka rail has one small design detail. a compression spring that regulates the contact force of the gearbox. arrival at the borders. Learn to knock on the steering rack and pull. This part actually has some cone, no matter how annoying its sound may be in operation, since the oil quickly loses its elastic characteristics, and the functionality of the spring is not significantly miniature. Therefore, it is necessary to repeat the tightening of this mechanism to restore the necessary efforts. At the same time, it is natural to see this spring only from the viewing aperture, which significantly complicates the work of setting it up.
READ Carburetor Repair VAZ 2105 Do It Yourself Video
The elevator itself is made with the introduction of a special key, since this would be a shame, because due to the design features of the model, this is unrealistic, because the control bus is required for disassembly. Below we will look at how this is done.
Steering rack (Kalina): removing parts from the car
What else is useful to start with? It must be connected just before the car locks the rear wheels with special emphasis. Then we sit in the cabin without unscrewing the bolt securing the column key. On " Kalin"
“This is in the pedal box area, so be prepared for unexpected difficulties.
We continue to repair the steering rack . After removing the front wheels, the viburnum is removed using the steering wheel nuts. Any malfunction is required as a steering rack from the mechanism on the Lada Grant. You also need to practice in the engine bay. Here we remove the terminals from the battery and remove the battery along with the platform and heat reflector. Next, unscrew the nuts that secure the rack to the chassis. That's right, now the steering rack (Kalina VAZ) has been successfully disassembled. How to tighten the steering rack on a VAZ How to check Grant, Priora, 2113, 2114, 2108, 2109. Remove it from the car and place it on a flat platform.
Steering rack adjustment for Lada Viburnum
this is how I tuned the steering rack
, ask, or everyone will tell you, everyone will tell you what I can do.
Reinforcing lath in Kalina
Steering noise
Railway Lada
Kalina
.
Now is the second part of the renovation. Here you cannot do without a vice, because it will clamp the steering rack cover. After that, move the rail from left to right, So what we do is we will diagnose it for the presence of the game. If so, try tightening the spring nut. Be careful. you should tighten it no more than 10 degrees and then test the device again for gameplay. So we continue until we completely solve the problem. Remember that if the spring is too tight, the steering wheel will be very difficult to turn even with power steering.
READ Replacing the Cooling Radiator of a Priora with Halla Air Conditioning
Replace other parts
We'll also take a look at what the steering rack looks like from the outside. Kalina can keep many maintenance secrets, so when we have the least doubt about the serviceability of the rail elements, we replace them with new ones. Otherwise, this part will have to be removed again. How to replace the steering rack on a VAZ-2109, 21099. The components themselves can be purchased as a repair kit. A detailed article on how to tighten the steering rack on a VAZ-2114. Photo and video algorithm. This will not be a big problem for the modern car enthusiast. After replacing and adjusting all the necessary components, we reassemble the rack in the reverse order. Everything on this renovation has been successfully completed.
Is it possible to tighten the steering rack without removing it?
Despite the fact that the management of the Kalina family car says that to adjust this mechanism it is necessary to remove it, some motorists pull it directly into the car to save time and effort. The most convenient way to get to the adjusting bolt. This is to go down into the inspection hole and find it at the bottom in front of the body.
Since this part is at the bottom, it should be tightened clockwise. If you can reach it from the top, counter-clockwise. Check for backlash immediately. But we do this not with our hands and a vice, but with a steering wheel. In other cases, the rack is raised, as in the example described above.
If after adjustment this part still produces noise and knocking, then the problem is hidden in one of its components. How to check the steering rack on a VAZ-2114: photos and. Then we buy a steering rack repair kit (Kalina 2117) or buy a new part, after which we completely change it. However, the latter option is only applicable in extreme cases. Replacing the Kalina VAZ steering rack will take you no more than 3-3.5 hours. VAZ 2114, VAZ 2115 How to replace the steering rack on a VAZ 2113-VAZ, how to tighten the rack. With experience, this period of time is significantly reduced.
READ How much oil is in the VAZ 2107 steering gear
Steering rack Kalina VAZ: how to extend service life?
If your vehicle is equipped with power steering, then to increase the life of the parts you should periodically check the oil level in the power steering and, if necessary, add it to the normal level. Also, to increase the service life of this mechanism, it is recommended to simply monitor the condition of the tie rod boot and change them in a timely manner. Failure to comply with this requirement will result in a leak of liquid, which will inevitably leak from the Railway
. And it may already break. the entire steering mechanism. And the renovations will be much more expensive than hiring new sawmills.
Other recommendations
Other recommendations include promptly checking the steering gear for worn seals. If you notice a leak in the guide, immediately replace the damaged part with a new one.
Pay special attention to your driving style. Experts recommend carefully “braking” before getting into a hole. Failure to comply with this requirement will result in damage not only to the wheels, but also to the steering rack. she certainly doesn't like that kind of blow. It is impossible to replace the steering rack on a VAZ-2114. Next item: How to remove and replace. In some cases, neglecting this rule can go so far that the rod simply bends and can no longer be corrected. In this case, you will need to purchase a new steering gear. In addition, the steering wheel should not rotate until it stops: then the booster system creates high pressure, which leads to rapid wear of the oil seals.
So, we figured out how to tighten the steering wheel
rail for viburnum and how to extend its service life.
The result of replacing the Kalina steering rack
Great! Now you just need to do a test drive. Take a marker with you to mark the highest point on the steering wheel when driving in a straight line. Returning to the repair site, we will move the steering wheel so that it faces straight.
So, sea trials. Having closed the garage, I pulled out onto the road and noticed that, out of habit, I was avoiding small bumps and politely slowing down in front of them. Having made a heroic effort on myself, I literally forced myself, without slowing down, to direct the car onto the side of the road covered with coarse gravel, and here was the long-awaited feeling of satisfaction: the roar had disappeared, the car went smoothly, methodically handling the unevenness with the suspension, but in the cabin it was practically inaudible .
I really hope that the well-lubricated and hermetically sealed new steering rack on my Kalina will last at least 3 years (for me it’s 75 thousand km), and after that I’ll definitely take it apart, wash it, lubricate it and replace the rubber covers, but only if The “rasp” will not rust.
Changing the EUR on Lada Kalina
The electric power steering is mounted on the steering column and is removed along with it. First you need to turn off the power to the car by removing the battery terminal and position the front wheels straight. To dismantle the Kalina steering wheel, remove the lower cross member of the instrument panel, disconnect the wires from the EUR control unit and the switches located on the column, and then lower the steering wheel to the floor.
Now it is convenient to unscrew the nut of the bolt securing the lower universal joint to the steering gear shaft. Then we open the joint connection, use a flat screwdriver to remove the intermediate cardan from the pinion shaft of the RM Kalina and dismantle the column along with the electric power steering. After replacing the EUR with a new one, installation is carried out in the reverse order to that described above.
For safety reasons, replacement of various components and mechanisms should be carried out only with those approved by the Kalina manufacturer. If the vehicle requires repair, it must be carried out immediately, otherwise the risk of creating dangerous situations on the road increases. If damage is detected or there are irreparable faults, the mechanism must be replaced.
Every Lada Kalina car owner will sooner or later be faced with the problem of steering rack failure and repair. Of course, experts and auto mechanics recommend changing this element, but not everyone can buy this element, so repair is the way out.
Video about steering rack repair on Lada Kalina:
The video material will tell you how to repair the steering rack, give basic recommendations and assembly features.
How to put the steering wheel straight on Kalina?
After repairing or replacing the steering rack, it is not always possible to position the steering wheel so that it faces straight, so many car enthusiasts have a question: how can Kalina place the steering wheel straight?
Indeed, when the steering wheel is straight when driving in a straight line, it is not only pleasant, but also convenient. It's just easier to hold on to.
To then set the steering wheel straight
, first, while driving in a straight line, make a mark at the top point of the steering wheel, and when you arrive at the repair site, position the steering wheel so that this point is at the very top. Next, pull the central part of the steering wheel towards you, it will detach and end up in your hands.
The horn terminals must be disconnected, the central part of the steering wheel can be put aside.
Using a 24mm wrench, unscrew the nut securing the steering wheel to the steering shaft.
Don't forget to mark the position of the steering wheel relative to the shaft with a marker.
Now we take the steering wheel with both hands (at 9 and 3 o’clock) and, alternately shaking each hand towards and away from us, carefully remove the steering wheel from the splines of the steering shaft. As soon as the steering wheel is removed from the splines, turn it to the position you need (that is, put it straight) and put it back on the splines. Now, when driving straight, your steering wheel will also point straight.
My steering wheel was slightly skewed to the right, so I moved it one slot to the left, like this:
Kalina control system
The steering rack is a device that looks like a gear. The latter is equipped on a shaft and connection with special rods and a rack. With the help of these parts, the car turns at a time when the steering wheel moves to the side to allow the front tires to move in the desired direction.
The car has 3 rack and pinion configurations:
- electric steering mechanism;
- modern hydraulic mechanism;
- mechanical.
The vehicle's control system is an electric drive. It helps reduce the load on the driver. The turning force is increased by an electric motor that is built into the column. This mechanism is used only on luxury cars. In our Kalina, the electric mechanism comes as an auxiliary option with an additional payment for the top kit.
Lada Kalina of the 1st and 2nd generation is equipped with a hydraulic mechanism. Drivers of these cars gain lightness and sharpness of the steering wheel.
Accordingly, the mechanical device is the simplest. Turning the rods in this situation will be accomplished solely through the use of the driver’s physical strength. It is clear that such a car is quite difficult to drive.
In addition to the mechanisms mentioned, there is a mixed version - electrohydromechanical. It combines the best qualities of hydraulic and electric power steering. Found on Lada Kalina Sport.
Is it necessary to do a wheel alignment when replacing the steering rack?
In conclusion, I would like to discuss with you this question, which is probably asked by everyone who is going to replace or repair the steering rack: is it necessary to adjust the wheel alignment after repairing or replacing the steering rack?
There is an opinion that this must be done; personally, I believe that
the wheel alignment angles
are NOT violated
during such repairs , and therefore
it is not necessary to adjust them
. When replacing a steering rack, as well as when repairing it, the suspension geometry does not change in any way; the steering rods are unscrewed from the rack and then screwed back, while all dimensions remain the same.
It’s another matter if, when replacing the steering rack, you also change the steering rods
assembled or at least
the steering ends
.
In this case, it is unlikely that you will be able to accurately adjust the length of the new steering rods, and therefore adjusting the
wheel alignment angles is simply
necessary
.
In this article we looked at the option of replacing a rack without tie rods and tips, and therefore the procedure for replacing Kalina tie rods
will be discussed in a separate article.
Interchangeability of VAZ steering racks
| To restore the functionality of the steering rack, as a rule, it is repaired, but sometimes it is necessary to replace the rack assembly. Do you know what steering racks were used on the VAZ of the tenth family, and what racks can be installed instead of the old one? |
On the “ten”, the manufacturer installed steering racks of the old model (from the VAZ 2108) and the new model with the index 2110. All the racks indicated in the table below are interchangeable, so that there are no installation difficulties, it is recommended to buy the rack together with the rods. Steering racks with power steering are replaced only with similar ones.
| Catalog number: | Note: | Number of revolutions: |
Steering rack VAZ 2110 old model | ||
| 2108-3400009-20 | Rake and rasp from VAZ 2108, straight toothed | 3.7 turns |
| 2110-3400009-20 | The body is different, the rasp is from 2108, straight-cut | 3.7 turns |
New VAZ 2110 steering rack | ||
| 2110-3400012 | Rasp 2110-3401068, with helical gears and variable pitch | 4.2 turns |
| 2110-3400010-30 | Short steering rack with power steering | 2.7 turns |
Steering rack Priora/Kalina | ||
| 11183-3400010-20 | Rasp from “ten” 21100-3401068-00 | 4.2 turns |
| 11183-3400010 | Rasp 2110-3401068 | 4.2 turns |
| 21100-3400010-30 | Short steering rack with power steering | 2.7 turns |
Steering rack Kalina Sport | ||
| 11183-3400010-10 | Rasp 11183-3401068-00 | 3.1 turns |
| 11183-3400010-12 | Rasp 11183-3401068-01 | 3.1 turns |
| 11183-3400010-01 | Rasp 21100-3401068-00 | 4.2 turns |
| 11183-3400010-10 | The steering rack was installed on Kalina with EUR | |
By the way, it is not necessary to change the steering mechanism assembly; you can try to repair it.
xn--2111-43da1a8c.xn--p1ai
Replacing the Kalina steering rack. Results
So is it worth repairing the steering rack on Kalina?
(ten, twelve, etc.) or is it better to replace it right away? Let's summarize which option is better to choose and in which case.
- If the right end of the rack is covered with rust
, then it is useless to change only the bushing; the rasp itself must also be changed. If you come across a rack that is sold separately, then replace this rack and bushing. If you can’t buy a “rasp” separately from the body, then replace the entire steering mechanism assembly, it’s easier. - If the rack is clean, without traces of rust
, then feel free to change the bushing, stop and central protective cover (corrugation), and at the same time thoroughly lubricate the insides of the steering rack. With this kind of prevention you can save several thousand rubles, and how to perform this repair, read the article
That, my friends, is probably all! At the moment, I am satisfied with the repair of Kalina's steering rack (I've been driving with the new rack for a week), the results are exactly what I expected. I only hope that the effect will last for a long time, because I don’t plan to remove the rail again in the near future - this is a very dreary task.
Dear readers! I hope this material will help save your time and effort and I wish that the steering rack on your car will run for a very long time and never knock at all! See you soon in the next articles!
PS Today is January 29, 2015. Mileage 200 t.km. The steering rack is in order, there are no extraneous sounds.
Steering mechanism Lada Kalina
The development of the Lada Kalina design began at AvtoVAZ in the 90s.
A line of cars was conceived, including the 1119 sedan, 1118 hatchback and minivan. The last model was never implemented; instead, a station wagon 1117 was developed. In 1999, a hatchback prototype was demonstrated, and in 2000, a future sedan model was demonstrated. The first generation of cars lasted on the market for about ten years; since 2014, AvtoVAZ has been producing an updated series, including the Kalina Cross all-terrain vehicle, which is distinguished by greater comfort, a new engine and design. On all Lada Kalina models, a steering mechanism was installed only with a rack and pinion drive, depending on the configuration, equipped with or without electric power steering (EPS). Hydraulic power steering (power steering) was installed only on the Lada Priora and the Niva SUV.
