VAZ 21214 does not start, the injector starter turns, there is a spark

04/28/2021 3,421 Consultation with a specialist

Author: Ivan Baranov

Hello! I have a VAZ 21213 Niva, when I turn the key in the ignition switch there is no characteristic noise of the fuel pump turning on. The starter doesn't turn over. What to do? Thank you! (Pavlov Sergey)

Good day, Sergey. We will talk about the reasons for the failure of the fuel pump below.

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Doesn't start (injection)

Reg.: 02.25.2010 Messages: 110 From: VOLZHSKY VOLGOGRAD REGION.
Age: 44 Car: VAZ 2131i (NIVA), 2010, Bosch M7.9.7 Reg.: 05/05/2013 Messages: 102 From: Tambov Age: 51 Car: VAZ 21214, 2007

Reg.: 02.25.2010 Messages: 110 From: VOLZHSKY VOLGOGRAD REGION. Age: 44 Car: VAZ 2131i (NIVA), 2010, Bosch M7.9.7

Reg.: 10.27.2011 Threads / Messages: 27 / 2514 From: Moscow, Sokol district Age: 52 Car: NADEZHDA 2120-41 2001, 1.8; JAC Rein

This means that current has reached the ECU. All.

A screw driven in with a hammer holds better than a nail tightened with a screwdriver.

Reg.: 02.12.2009 Messages: 11 From: Novorossiysk Age: 48 Car: VAZ 21214i 2003

Name: Alexander Reg.: 01/02/2013 Threads / Messages: 1 / 611 From: Russia, Moscow-Toropets Age: 39 Car: Niva 2131, 2010 Merc 123 diesel.

Reg.: 02.12.2009 Messages: 11 From: Novorossiysk Age: 48 Car: VAZ 21214i 2003

Name: Alexander Reg.: 01/02/2013 Threads / Messages: 1 / 611 From: Russia, Moscow-Toropets Age: 39 Car: Niva 2131, 2010 Merc 123 diesel.

Reg.: 02.12.2009 Messages: 11 From: Novorossiysk Age: 48 Car: VAZ 21214i 2003

Reg.: 03/30/2008 Threads / Messages: 14 / 2822 From: Surgut Age: 35 Car: VAZ 21310i 2012 October

Hot Niva won't start

Reg.: 07/30/2009 Messages: 455 From: Vologda Age: 47 Car: VAZ 21214M 2013.

Reg.: 12/06/2004 Threads / Messages: 4024 / 23192 From: Moscow Age: 67 Car: 21214M, 2013

Hot Niva won't start

Name: Yaroslav Reg.: 03/21/2012 Threads / Messages: 3 / 8260 From: Taganrog Age: 29 Car: VAZ-21214-50-120 (06/01/2012), SHTAT UniComp 400L (firmware 3.3.1), VAZ-11173 2012, VAZ-21112 2006

Hot Niva won't start

Reg.: 05.29.2014 Messages: 462 From: St. Petersburg Age: 61 Car: 21214m, 2014

Reg.: 10.27.2011 Threads / Messages: 27 / 2514 From: Moscow, Sokol district Age: 52 Car: NADEZHDA 2120-41 2001, 1.8; JAC Rein

A screw driven in with a hammer holds better than a nail tightened with a screwdriver.

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Reasons why an injection engine does not start

What to do if your car's fuel-injected engine won't start? What to do when, when you turn the key in the ignition, the starter turns, but the engine does not start. If the engine had a carburetor, then the situation with identifying breakdowns would be a little simpler. What is the situation with injection engines?

In an area where there are a sufficient number of auto repair shops and calling a tow truck is not a problem, solving the problem is not so difficult. But what if this is not possible? After all, there are times when you have to do everything yourself. In fact, many breakdowns that prevent the engine from starting can be fixed on your own.

The starter turns, but the engine does not start

From time to time, situations occur with all cars when the starter turns, but the engine does not start. The cause of the breakdown may be several malfunctions, and the repair process will be different for a carburetor and an injection car. And if the engine does not start and the starter does not turn, then read another article.

The starter turns, but does not start: VAZ carburetor

A common failure on classic models. There may be three reasons for this:

ignition;
air and fuel lines;
carburetor.

However, during repairs it is necessary to check both branches.

Ignition failures

Failure to supply a spark is one of the causes of failure. The sequence of actions looks like this.

Checking the spark on the spark plugs. The element is unscrewed from its socket. Next, without removing the cap from the stud, you need to attach the spark plug to the engine block and crank the starter. If at this time a powerful spark appears on the electrode, the part is in good condition. The procedure must be repeated for all pistons. If there is no breakdown, the element is replaced with a new one.
Circuit breakers. Burnout of fusible links is common among carburetor cars.
High voltage cables.
If replacing the spark plug does not help (there is still no spark), the armored wires need to be checked. The ideal option would be to diagnose by replacing the cable with a known good one. Note! Checking armored wires and spark plugs is carried out in a dark room. If the cable or spark plug body is broken, the electric arc can jump anywhere in the line.
Distributor. It is necessary to remove the top cover of the part and inspect the ember, contact points for the presence of carbon deposits and melted areas. For systems with electronic ignition, the coil and Hall sensors are checked.
Ignition timing. From time to time, carburetor models require adjustment of the distributor angle. You can set it correctly yourself. There are corresponding notches on the body of the mechanism and the engine block. For accurate positioning, you must read the instructions for the car.

In some cases, the car may not start due to loose starter wiring, battery or battery discharge.

Air and fuel supply

The next reason why the starter turns, but the car does not start may be due to a malfunction in the supply of the combustible mixture. The sequence of actions looks like this.

Initially, the filter elements, air and fuel, are checked. Interruptions in the supply of gasoline or air are the primary source of the problem, when the starter turns, seizes, but does not start - clogged inserts prevent the free flow of fluid.
The next stage is the fuel pump.
When cranking the starter, you need to listen to the details. If the unit does not pump fuel, starting the engine will be impossible. Note! In some car models (VAZ 2101/06), a common cause of breakdown, when the starter turns but the car does not start, is overheating. To eliminate the defect, simply moisten a rag with cold water and wrap it around the pump. After cooling, the car will start.
Air leaks are also a common cause. The user is required to check all hoses and pipes for loose clamps, cracks or abrasions. Damaged elements are replaced with new ones.
Line blockage. Sediment rising from the gas tank can clog the thin tubes, preventing the free flow of gasoline.

Carburetor

If all manipulations with the lines and the fuel supply system have not brought results, the next step is to check the cleanliness and accuracy of the carburetor settings. The mechanism is riddled with thin passages and bypass valves. If low-quality gasoline gets in, the channels quickly become clogged and block the movement of liquid. During repairs, the carburetor is completely disassembled and the jets are cleaned - this is best done with compressed air or thick fishing line. It is also necessary to blow out all the holes, after rinsing the structure with clean gasoline. After cleaning, the mechanism is assembled in the reverse order.

Note! During repairs, special attention must be paid to the throttle valve and jets - these elements are most often the source of trouble.

The starter turns but does not start: injector

When the starter turns, but the VAZ 2114 does not start, it has 8 or 16 valves (also relevant for similar car models). The problem is searched for in the following systems:

fuel supply;
ignition;
electronics;
injector.

Fuel system

Pump

A common problem when injection vehicles fail to start is a breakdown of the fuel pump. When you turn the key in the ignition switch, a characteristic hum should be heard from the tank, accompanied by pumping gasoline into the line. If it is absent, the corresponding relay and fuse are checked. If the inserts are in good condition, it is necessary to diagnose the pump itself (located inside the tank, under the rear seats). It is also necessary to check the integrity of the fuel lines and the working condition of the coarse and fine filters.

Possible reasons why an injection engine does not start

Fuel system

It is necessary to diagnose the fuel supply system. In domestic fuel-injected cars, when the engine starts, you can hear a specific buzzing sound from the rear of the car. This sound indicates that the fuel pump is operating. Accordingly, if such a buzzing noise is not observed, most likely the problem lies in the pump.

You need to check the fuses that control the fuel pump, the main engine control relay and the fuel pump relay. In some cars of the VAZ family, fuses are hidden under the glove compartment, in others behind the heating panel cover on the passenger side. If the fuses are ok, check the relay.

You can touch it, and a specific click should sound. If the relay is also working properly, you need to check the pressure in the fuel system. The best way to do this is with a pressure gauge. If this is not possible, you will have to find a spool, which should be under a protective cap.

When you press it, you should feel pressure. Some models do not have a spool. Then you need to disconnect the fuel supply pipe. If the pump is working, then pressure should also be felt under your finger.

Possible causes may also be clogged fuel filters or fuel supply pipes. There may also be such a banal reason as lack of fuel in the tank.

If it turns out that all elements of the fuel system are in order, then the next thing you should pay attention to is the ignition system.

Ignition system

The main thing you need to be sure of is the presence of a good spark, that is, a discharge between the two contacts of the spark plug. If the starter turns, but the engine does not start, then there is a high probability of a malfunction in the ignition system. This is where we need our spark gap. If you check the spark plug without it, for example, by attaching it to the engine, then the resistance will be too high.

Starter malfunction

This can be a very common reason why the car engine does not start. In order to establish the possible cause of a starter failure, it is very good if the car enthusiast has at least an approximate understanding of the structure of this mechanism and how to check whether it is working.

It is important for owners of foreign cars to know that imported starters can stop turning even due to lack of lubrication or when dirty. In this case, the solution is very simple: remove the starter from the engine, thoroughly clean it from dirt and thoroughly lubricate the necessary mechanical components. Moreover, the used lubricant must be removed. In principle, this is not difficult, but if it doesn’t work out, then it’s better to contact a specialist.

The starter turns the engine crankshaft, but the engine does not start

The widest range of Niva malfunctions, sometimes combined (several malfunctions at once that prevent the engine from starting and operating), is much more common than others. When describing such cases, we do not take into account engines with a faulty or unregulated gas distribution system, unregulated ignition and fuel supply system.

In frosty weather, the engine may not start due to insufficient battery charge. In this case, it is more advisable to remove it from the car, bring it to a warm room, thaw it, wipe it dry from condensation and charge it to the maximum voltage value.

If you urgently need to start the engine, you should unscrew the spark plugs, clean them of frost or condensation, then screw them back into place and try to start the engine again.

In some cases, you can use the emergency method . Boil water, remove the plastic casing and pour boiling water over the intake manifold. Then try to start again.

Under no circumstances should you start a cold Niva engine “from a pusher” or from a tow. There is a risk of serious damage to it.

Why won't Niva 21214 injector start?

Guys, I'll be brief:

Given: NIVA (21214), injection, 2002. Problem: it grabs, but won't start. More details: the car sat outside overnight in the now famous Moscow frost, came out in the morning, the battery turned the starter, the car sneezed, but did not start. When I tried to start (the clutch pedal was pressed), I also tried to press the gas pedal before ignition, turn on the ignition for 3-5 seconds, turn it off, slowly release the gas pedal - they say that something is blowing through the injection NIVA. Oil 10w40. I assume that it may be very close to the minimum. I noticed another pattern - the more you turn the starter, the more often the car sneezes and sometimes it even seems like it’s about to start... but it doesn’t start. The battery runs out earlier.

What I tried to do: 1. Heated all the spark plugs and cleaned them with sandpaper. I don’t remember any further of the modification A. spark plugs. 2. I topped up with 95 gasoline from a proven gas station (there was a suspicion that the day before I filled it up with 92 gasoline in the form of a complete mess). 3. I tried to light a cigarette for others - the same problem - the starter spins (I tried turning the starter from 1 second to 5 seconds continuously), the car sneezes, but does not start. 4. Tried to start it from the pushrod - zero success. 5. Cleaned the contacts of the Varta battery (62 Ampere). Charged the battery.

Damn... who can explain to me what the problem could be?

It happens that the starter works fine, but the engine stubbornly refuses to start, although the Check lamp does not light up. In such cases, if we talk about the VAZ-2123 engine, we can immediately name 10 different reasons. All of them will be quite real, and not at all from the category of “contacts have oxidized.” In general, sometimes the Chevrolet Niva does not start, but the starter turns the shaft properly, and the reason should not be looked for there. Well, let's try to learn to recognize different reasons, that is, to distinguish one from the other.

Example in the video: the APS immobilizer blocked the engine because it was in learning mode!

14.15. It won’t start - useful tips

GENERAL INFORMATION

Your technical equipment must be impeccable - after all, the time you have is the same money that, we hope, you also have. Don't lose either one or the other. If a missing tie out of nowhere or a pant leg burnt by an iron can cause a business meeting to be disrupted, what can we say about a car that doesn’t want to start an hour before the scheduled negotiations.

. Early in the morning, freshly shaved and full of great plans (child – to school, wife – to the hairdresser, and yourself – to forge a penny), you jump into the car, “key to start” and. What the hell . One more time. More . Nervous manipulations with the key and pedals do not bring success. The day is ruined from the very beginning. Plans and mood are down the drain.

Calm down. There is no need to rush under the hood in an English suit and, smearing the oily dirt with a tie, try to make a diagnosis. You probably won't be able to cure it in 5 minutes. Take another car, and leave the treatment of your sick friend until the evening. And it’s better to entrust it to doctors with a good reputation, especially if you have an expensive car and you are not a specialist. It will be cheaper this way. Well, if your friend is well known to you and you consider yourself a healer, well, try it yourself, if you’re not too lazy to get dirty or there’s no other way out.

The diagnosis must be made calmly

Mentally examine the symptoms. First, does the starter turn? And if so, how cheerful? You already know the answer - remember what happened the first time you tried to start the car. If you don't remember, try again.

If the starter does not turn at all and does not even click the traction relay when the ignition is turned on, then it is either faulty (you can close the hood and follow the advice given above: “Take another car...”), or there is a problem with the battery - it has turned off or died. Only in rare models can the starter power circuit be protected by a fuse - about 300 amperes - it is not difficult to find, especially if you know in advance where it is located. If the battery is to blame, then, as a rule, all electrical equipment does not work. The simplest and easiest case is that one of the terminals has come off or is dirty, but the battery is fine. Tighten the terminals on it and on the starter (if equipped). If it turns out that the battery is completely dead (forgot to turn off the headlights at night), you can still leave. But with outside help. Here, as they say, options are possible. You can try to start from a push, from a hill or from a tow. Don’t try to get around the pitfalls: a car with an automatic transmission or electronic fuel injection (if it has an electric fuel pump) will not be able to start using these methods. I'll have to light a cigarette at my neighbor's. However, for some machines this can lead to damage to the computer (read the instructions for the machine). If the starter turns on, but is sluggish (this happens in the summer, in winter this is a subject for a separate discussion), most likely the battery is almost completely discharged. This will be visible by weak headlights or weak signal. In this case, the above options for outside assistance come into play.

If the starter turns briskly, but the engine does not respond to attempts to start it, feel free to exclude everything related to the battery from further considerations. Blame the ignition or fuel supply system, you can’t go wrong. When diagnosing and treating each of them, a systematic approach is required. It’s better to start with the ignition - problems occur there more often. Especially in wet weather.

It will ignite from a spark.

So, we need to look for a spark. Your car may be equipped with a classic (simple) contact ignition system, a rather complex electronic contactless one, or some combination. In any case, the system consists of three parts. Part one is low-voltage (breaker contacts in a classic system or a special sensor in an electronic one, plus a box with electronic filling that forms a spark). Part two is a step-up transformer, called an ignition coil in the world. Part three is high voltage (mechanical or electronic distributor and wires through which high voltage current is supplied to the spark plugs). And of course, the candles themselves. The inspection of this entire enterprise must be carried out in stages and it is better to start from the end.

Stage one. High voltage part of the system. Check to see if there is a spark on the center wire - this is the one that connects the coil to the distributor. The tip of the wire must be removed from the distributor cap, brought closer to any part that has good contact with the body of the car (it doesn’t matter whether it is painted or not), and secured so that there is a gap of 5–7 mm between the tip and the selected part.

Chevrolet Niva does not start: three different sensors

The crankshaft position sensor will not indicate its failure in any way. The Check light will not light up, the engine will simply not start. Finding this sensor is easy if you know where the alternator belt is (see photo).

DPKV sensor connector

Here we check the serviceability of the wiring, as well as the distance from the sensor to the “teeth” (0.8-1.2 mm).

The second suspicious element will be the temperature sensor. The engine may not start only if it breaks. In this case, the electric fan should work without turning off. That is, a break in the DTOZH sensor circuit is easily recognized.

Element “6” is DTOZH

In the photo there is a sensor, and to get to it, the air duct is removed.

If the idle speed control malfunctions, the engine on a Chevrolet Niva does not start, but the starter turns. By the way, the Check lamp may be on. Diagnostics:

Set of "electrical" reasons

The first step in diagnostics: remove the cap from any spark plug, install spark plug A17DVRM and, holding it with pliers, turn on the starter.

The spark plug must be held by the hexagon, the pliers must have insulated handles, and the spark plug body must touch the “ground”. As a result, a spark can be observed. If there is no spark, it means:

Fuel rail

On the ramp next to regulator 5 there is a control fitting 3. It is closed with a cap, which is unscrewed and then carefully pressed on the spool.

If fuel flows, it means it is entering the ramp. But perhaps the necessary pressure is not created. Reasons: clogged filter cylinder, pump malfunction, etc.

The pressure should be 350 kPa (3.5 bar). It is controlled by unscrewing the spool and installing a pressure gauge. Before checking, you need to reduce the pressure!

If fuel does not flow, notice whether the pump turns on when the key is turned to the “I” mark. When the ignition is turned on “cold”, the pump should run for 10 seconds.

Additional mounting block

Know that fuse F2 and relay P4 are responsible for turning on the pump. There is also a main relay P5, and all these elements are located in a block mounted on the same bracket with the ECM (see photo).

Even if the pressure is normal, the injectors may be clogged. In addition, their wiring may be damaged.

Case from practice

What happens if water gets into gasoline? In the summer - nothing. And in winter, the power supply system can become clogged with ice. All elements are at risk, from the pump to the injector valves!

Fuel supply line filter

A small amount of water is always present in fuel. If this number is increased, this is what happens:

All of the above applies to any injection internal combustion engine, including the VAZ-2123. And the “first candidate for failure” will be the fuel filter. It is located under the bottom of the Chevrolet Niva and is encased in aluminum (see photo). However, this is done on many cars.

Pumping up excess air

One smart book says that the engine may not start due to the fact that the intake manifold draws in too much air. This means you need to check the fastening of all pipes. But not only.

Vacuum brake booster

The source of “excess air” may be a faulty VUT. The starter turns, the engine on the Chevrolet Niva does not start, and the reason, it turns out, must be sought in the brake system!

We won't look for anything. Let's do it simpler:

That's the whole trick. We wish you success!

Despite its apparent simplicity, defects in the air supply system are difficult to detect. Check the fit of the hoses on the fittings and the tightness of all clamps.

Why doesn't the pump work?

So, what could be causing the element to not work:

First of all, it is necessary to check the functionality of the fuses. Open the block and find the fuse or relay that controls the operation of the fuel pump. If the element fails, you need to replace it.
The motor of the device itself has failed. In this case, all that remains is to replace the pump assembly.
No contact. You need to get to the device and check the functionality of all contacts - whether there is a break, whether all wire harnesses are connected.
Poor unit weight. Sometimes it happens that the ground wiring has oxidized and cannot transmit contact. In this case, you need to check its condition and clean it if necessary. If there is a problem with the mass, then you will also notice that the gasoline level arrow on the dashboard will drop.

Now as for the starter, why does it refuse to turn:

The simplest thing is a dead battery. Perhaps you are in the first place, but we are obliged to warn you about this. Try or “smoke” from another car.
Signaling. In some cases, in practice, we have more than once encountered such a problem as an alarm short circuit. This happens for various reasons - due to water getting into the alarm unit, broken wires, etc. But the result is the same - if the alarm unit closes, there will be no fuel pump. The problem can be solved by repairing the board or replacing it, although the search may take some time.
Failure of the solenoid relay. In this case, the starter will either be silent or buzz, but it will be impossible to start the engine.
Bendix failure. This element is a gear located on the same shaft as the starter rotor. If the gear teeth are heavily worn, problems may arise with starting the engine.
Worn bushings. The only solution is to replace them.
Wear of the device windings. This occurs as a result of the fact that the element has already exhausted its service life. Replacing windings is a difficult and time-consuming task; it will be easier to completely change the component completely.

Video diagnosing the causes of an uncertain cold start

Along with high efficiency and relative reliability, fuel-injected cars have one unpleasant drawback - the difficulty of repair. It happens that the injector suddenly stops starting, and it becomes difficult to do anything with it. It’s good if you have the opportunity to call a tow truck or show the car to a professional, but what should those motorists do who are left with the problem alone? Let's figure it out by examining in detail all the reasons why the injector starts poorly or refuses to start at all, as well as how to “treat” such a malfunction.

Possible faults

No matter how trivial it may sound, if the injector does not start, it means something has gone wrong. The success and speed of repair depends on how quickly and efficiently the problematic link in the car’s design can be identified. To better understand the essence of repair activities, it would be a good idea to pay attention to potential breakdowns. The basic list of the latter is as follows:

In addition to the breakdowns described above that can break the operation of the injector, the problem may lie in more trivial things. An example of this is a weak battery charge or lack of fuel in the tank. Considering just such incidents, before repairing a car, it is extremely important to exclude the possibility of their occurrence, so as not to waste extra time and nerves.

Silence when trying to start the engine

The Niva crankshaft cannot be turned by the starter.

There may be several reasons:

Blown fuse.
Poor contact between battery terminals.
The battery is completely discharged.
Failure of the starter solenoid relay.
Failure of the intermediate relay that switches the starter circuit.

First of all, you should pay attention to the dashboard. When you turn on the ignition or the main electrical circuit in the engine, the lamps should light up on the dashboard or information should appear on the on-board computer, if we are talking about the Chevrolet Niva.

If this does not happen, the cause should be sought in the fuse box and in the battery contacts. During operation, oxides may form on these contacts, increasing the resistance. Loose contact connections can lead to sparking and burning.

If no blown fuses are found, you should check the reliability of the “+” contacts of the battery with the central wire and the “-” contacts with the vehicle ground.

To eliminate the malfunction, be sure to replace the fuses and clean the contacts. It would be a good idea to acquire even the cheapest tester in order to quickly check the presence of voltage in the electrical circuits of the car.

The procedure for returning the car to “life”

Let's say you find yourself in circumstances where the injection engine starts poorly or refuses to do so at all. There is no need to hesitate in such a situation - it is advisable to immediately begin resuscitation procedures. If you don’t have time to figure out the exact reason why the car doesn’t start well, then you should quickly carry out the following algorithm of actions:

In general, there are no particular difficulties in repairing a non-starting injector. The main thing in the process of such work is to act competently, in accordance with the procedure and possible vehicle malfunctions described above.

No fuel supply

Often the engine does not start if the fuel supply system . Attempts to start such an engine are usually accompanied by popping noises, shots in the muffler, the appearance of black smoky smoke and a strong smell of gasoline from the exhaust pipe. A malfunction in a carburetor engine is usually determined visually.

It is enough to shine a flashlight into the primary and secondary chambers. If there are traces of gasoline on the walls, and fuel does not spray out of the accelerator pump nozzle, but flows out in a thin stream, it is necessary to urgently identify and eliminate the malfunction. To accurately determine a malfunction in an injection engine, you need special equipment connected to the vehicle’s diagnostic connector, capable of reading error codes and faults .

To determine the serviceability of the injectors, you should disconnect them from the ramp, and then ask an assistant to crank the engine with the starter. If gasoline flows out of the injector nozzle in a thick stream or does not flow out at all, the injector should be washed in an ultrasonic bath or replaced.

To avoid various surprises along the way, it is recommended that you always check all engine systems before leaving, eliminating minor faults. For example, loose contact, friction of wires and hoses on various protrusions, leaks of oil and other liquids, etc.

In this case, you can not only eliminate minor breakdowns, but also identify and prevent more serious ones, which can lead to significant expenditure of effort and money. Always stay mobile. Good luck on the roads!

Prevention of injector breakdowns

Why the injection engine does not start and how to eliminate possible problems is now known to all readers of our resource. However, it is better to avoid such breakdowns, so let’s pay attention to ordinary procedures that, if carried out systematically, will help minimize the risks of all malfunctions. The simplest but most effective prevention consists of the following measures:

Perhaps this is where the most important information on today’s issue has come to an end. We hope the material presented above was useful and provided answers to your questions. Good luck in operating and maintaining your car!

Source

Niva does not start reasons 21214 injector – Niva engine does not start. What to do? « NewNiva.ru

Many Niva owners are familiar with this situation: when you turn the ignition key, the engine does not start, or there is even silence or some strange clicks are heard. I’ll tell you what to do and how to fix the problem below. First I will describe the malfunctions, and then ways to eliminate them.

Silence when trying to start the engine

The Niva crankshaft cannot be turned by the starter.

There may be several reasons:

Blown fuse.
Poor contact between battery terminals.
The battery is completely discharged.
Failure of the starter solenoid relay.
Failure of the intermediate relay that switches the starter circuit.

If no blown fuses are found, you should check the reliability of the “+” contacts of the battery with the central wire and the “-” contacts with the vehicle ground.

Clicking noises when trying to start the engine

If all contacts and fuses of the Niva are normal, you should turn the ignition key to the “start” position and listen to see if the relay clicks. If clicking sounds are heard clearly, the problem may lie in the starter voltage relay, the solenoid relay, or the starter coil circuit.

In “male” car services, the serviceability of the solenoid relay is usually checked by closing its contacts with a large screwdriver until the starter begins to rotate. For safety reasons, this should not be done under any circumstances.

If the problem is in the intermediate relay , then it is quite easy to replace it on the Niva. It is enough to insert the new relay block into the terminal block, observing the sequence and polarity of the connection.

To check the serviceability of the solenoid relay , the starter will have to be removed. After this, holding the starter, you should connect it to the battery and apply voltage to the contact of the solenoid relay. If a click is clearly heard, then the solenoid relay is working properly.

Perhaps the cause of the malfunction is oxidized and burnt contact pads of the starter . To check them, you should disassemble the solenoid relay and clean the contact group. Sometimes the solenoid relay is non-separable and must be replaced along with the contact group.

If the solenoid relay works, but the starter rotor does not rotate, it is necessary to check the condition of its brushes, which may have worn out so much that they have lost contact with the winding. In this case, repairing the starter costs little money.

If the rotor is jammed or its winding is burned out, it is best to replace the starter assembly.

In some cases, the starter turns on, but instead of starting the Niva engine, a whistle or grinding noise is heard. Possible causes of the malfunction in this case are failure of the overrunning clutch mechanism (“Bendix”) or jamming of the retractor relay rod.