Grant's fog lights don't light up

Hi all! The 40th anniversary recording was not pleasant. The right PTF lamp did not light up. In winter it was the same, but after 2-3 days it started working again, and now it has been off for 2 weeks. I thought the lamp had burned out. MTF VANADIUM 5000 K
lamps .
Before this, there were also MTFs, only PALLADIUM 5500
K.
PALLADIUM was too blue, it almost gave off blue, but the light was very beautiful!

I came home and took off the bumper. To do this, you need to unscrew 4 screws,

pull out the bumper and PTF in front of us.

I remove the old light bulb and insert a new one, but there is no result!

I picked up a multimeter and decided to check the voltage

Voltage is ok. I tried to insert the light bulb again, but it didn't light up. I made a lot of mistakes (a common problem as I heard). I tried to take the plus in the plug, and took the ground with a wire from some bolt and the light miraculously started working. I pulled out the ground wire that was sitting on the screw.

I cleaned the screw, the washer, the hole, cleaned everything with a WD tool, screwed the screw into place, but the light still did not start to light. Then I decided to make additional mass. On one side I connected it by twisting to the negative wire at the PTF, and the other end was cleaned and mounted on a special mass bolt on the floor of the hood.

I turned on the PTF and everything is on. Now the lamps have begun to give off a slightly yellowish tint and do not look very close to the OSRAMs in the main headlights. I hope the light will be better, especially in bad weather. In winter I’m thinking of returning PALLADIUM

In the process, a set of tools that my beloved mother and girlfriend gave me as a gift and a homemade extension cord made of 2 copper wires and 4 crocodiles helped a lot.

- T20 torx wrench - wire - electrical tape - multimeter - utility knife

Thank you all! =) Good luck on the roads and no nails, no rods! =)

Hello everyone, this is a problem: the PTF does not want to turn on, or rather, when you press the button in the mouse, a click is heard and the PTF indication on the dashboard lights up for a moment. If you jerk off the button, the PTF lights up every 30 seconds and only for 20 seconds, the rear PTFs work flawlessly. Also all modes without problems. I took it apart and saw either rust or flux... What do you recommend? Or it's not about the mus...

Lada Granta › Logbook › Problems with PTF or ICC

FakeHeader

Comments 23

Hello! Tell me how you solved the problem, I have the same problem, I click 50 times only then the fog lights come on and after a while they go out! It started with nothing at all, it’s not clear! Should I change the ICC?

Yes, the solution is to replace the MUS, or solder the relay to the button that is inside the MUS, but I haven’t found such a small one

Thank you so much! Only I found the same problem with you, which means there will be a new ICC! True, I haven’t taken mine apart yet...

I soldered this. The year is plowing, the flight is normal. I'll change the rear one too. For some reason the PTF itself is switched off.

Thank you, I also thought it was them! I'll take it to a mechanic and ask him to re-solder it!

I soldered this. The year is plowing, the flight is normal. I'll change the rear one too. For some reason the PTF itself is switched off.

I’ve been looking for information for 4 months now, but I can’t get anywhere. Tell me, how did you fit this relay in there? I have the same one in my stash, in a case, but it is much larger both in fit and in the size of the case.

Yes, it's a little more than it costs there. They just lengthened the legs (cut them off from the resistors) and turned them on their sides))) So that it would fit and not get in the way. I've been working on it a little, but I can't see the inside, but it's been working for quite a long time without interruption.

I soldered this. The year is plowing, the flight is normal. I'll change the rear one too. For some reason the PTF itself is switched off.

Where can I find such a relay? The name would be

This hat in the picture is the relay. There are 2 of them. If you look closely, you will see a patch that should stick to the plate when 12V is applied. For me it all started with the fact that the PTF did not turn on the first time. The button clicked normally. Then they turned on only when you hit the ICC. As a result, it stopped working completely. At first I also ran around looking for it, then I decided to take it apart and understand what was going on. Found. Look at the front PTF and change it. If you don’t want to change, get a new ICC. I changed the relay to what I had on hand.

As I think, you have already seen that on the VAZ 2114 and other Samaras the headlights leave much to be desired, and in cloudy and rainy weather you feel like a hedgehog in the fog. Therefore, fog lights significantly improve the situation and illuminate the roadside.

But it happens that at a certain moment the PTFs stop working, and you need to urgently look for the cause of the malfunction. In this article we will look at the main possible causes of malfunction of fog lights (FTL) and methods for eliminating them.

The most basic and common cause of malfunction is oxidation and corrosion, which appear during long-term operation and in the Russian climate. But still, we will touch on specific problems, and start from the simplest to the most complex.

Fuse

Each PTF has a separate fuse F8 and F9 in the fuse block with a rating of 7.5 A. Check its integrity - replace it. If you did not find a fuse in the mounting block, then most likely, in your case, the PTFs were installed by the previous owner, and the fuses on them are located either next to the fog lights themselves or next to the relay. If both PTFs do not work for you, then most likely the problem with the fuses disappears - because It is not possible for both fuses to blow at the same time, although everything happens in our lives.

Burnt out lamps in PTF

In this case, all that remains is to check and replace. When you remove the lamp and look, the filament of the lamp may visually remain intact, so it is better to check with a known working lamp. Again, if both fog lights have failed, then most likely this is not your case.

The relay is either located in the mounting block or installed in another location if the PTF was not installed at the factory. The easiest option is to replace and check with a relay that is known to work, or you can also try knocking on it. When you turn on the PTF button, the relay should click. If the relay does not click, either replace the relay, or there is simply no power going to it.

Preparatory stage (selection of PTF for Lada Granta)

The range of PTFs is not large; it is represented by several domestically produced models. Some owners claim that PTFs from Opel and Ford are compatible, but the information has not been verified.

Name / manufacturer / article	Price, rub.)
LADA Granta (VAZ 2190) / Kalina 2 / LADA Largus

OSRAM kit 21900-3743010

Both fog lights stopped working

Both fog lights stopped lighting, what could be the problem? Maybe I should look at the fuse?

Crap. Will we really get to the point where soon there will be topics like “the washer fluid in the tank has run out..what should I do??”

Fuse (in the cabin behind the milk pocket). Button connector.

Sometimes it's better to live.

100% fuse

relay look m.b. it kicked, but most likely the contacts were acidified

I'm so stupidly burned out. just replacing light bulbs

The fog lights stopped lighting along with the tidy. Moreover, the mileage display works. The tidy backlight (brighter - dimmer) also does not work((((Sadness((

I have already burned out 10-15 fuses (((The one under the steering wheel is on. I put it on the more powerful one, it burns out under the hood due to the dimensions.

I turned off the fog lights and the dash lights are still on.

The dash doesn't light up at all. And it doesn’t matter if there is a fuse or not. *((

Did you get into the wiring? Additional gavnetol sensors?

No, they didn’t do anything like that. Yesterday during the rain I think it went out, or after it.

There are a lot of reasons for the fuse. What exactly (on what part) does the fuse burn out? Are all relays alive and working? What electrical accessories have been installed on the car in the last 2 weeks? or related work that could create a precedent?

Nothing has been installed on the car for “a hundred years.” The fuse for the fog lights is on. Accordingly, the following happens: I start it, turn on the dimensions - everything is ok, well, almost)) the tidy does not work (tidy lights), I turn on the fogs and the fuse blows. Near and far are working!

Are the fog lights factory installed or did you install them yourself (I mean did you install the wiring yourself or did it all come from the factory)? Is the fog light relay working? (clicks at least)

Is the fuse for the instrument panel lights alive? (it can be combined with some other illumination, for example, the illumination of buttons or the interior light or something else)

The fogs seem to be original.

The fuse blows when I turn on the headlights. but the dimensions are on fire. Those. It's not even a matter of fogs. and in the tidy.

Many opinions and topics have been voiced on many forums regarding short circuits in the instrument panel (a lot of lyrics.

Correctly, the fog lights are made through the dimensions precisely through the snout, the fog lamps have their own fuse, and the dimensions have their own relays, and at the moment the dimensions are turned on, when the fuse burns out, are the fog lamps turned on or off? those. – turned on the lights, everything is fine, the fuse for the fog lights works, then you turn on the fog lights, does the fuse burn out? or so - you just turn on the headlights, the fog lights are turned off, and the fog light fuse still burns out?

what about the fuse? which I voiced - which is used to illuminate the tidy and often some other lighting in the cabin.

Many opinions and topics have been voiced on many forums regarding short circuits in the instrument panel (a lot of lyrics.

what about the fuse? which I voiced - which is used to illuminate the tidy and often some other lighting in the cabin.

It burns out immediately when the lights are turned on. and it doesn’t matter whether the fog lights are on or not!! I'll try to post pictures now.

which is not there, it burns out.

an attraction for a while - find the burnt one at random if you don’t know which fuse is responsible for the tidy backlight not working.

(there are also additional blocks on some cars with large fuses with 2, 4 and 6 legs; the tidy is stuck through them, and a good half of the drivers do not know about this at all and believe that the fuses are only there in the block and under the hood.)

I repeat. does the fog light relay work?

Have all fuses been checked?

Source: www.sti-club.su

Fog lights don't light up

It is no accident that any car is equipped with fog lights - they play a very important role in poor visibility conditions. The fact is that standard optics behave incorrectly in foggy conditions - the light is simply reflected from the water dust contained in the air and scattered. Visibility remains practically zero. The fog light, in turn, emits a wide beam in a horizontal plane, illuminating only the road and not the surrounding area.

Since no one is immune from the vagaries of nature, both fog lights must always be in good condition. In addition, many motorists prefer to turn on them rather than low beam headlights during the daytime. A malfunction of one or both fog lights can play a cruel joke on a motorist, so it is advisable to check them before each trip, especially on a long trip.

If the fog lights don't light up

If the fog lights in the car do not light up, this can affect the safety of all road users, so this malfunction must be corrected as quickly as possible. To do this, you can contact an auto electrician, but you can figure it out yourself. There are not many reasons why the fog lights do not light up:

lamps burned out;
the fuse has failed;
there is no contact in the relay;
the power button is burnt out;
weak contact in twists or to ground.

If the fog lights do not light: possible malfunctions

Fog lights play an important role when driving in poor visibility conditions, emitting a wide beam of light in a horizontal plane and cutting not only the road, but also the surrounding area. And if one of them, or both at once, fails, then it is necessary to take immediate measures to eliminate the malfunctions. Especially if it’s autumn outside the window with its rains and fogs or winter with a snowstorm. Let's look at the main types of PTF malfunctions and how to eliminate them.

There are several main reasons why fog lights fail:

• Bulbs are burnt out. • The fuses have tripped. • The problem is in the relay - there is no contact. • The power key is faulty. • Weak contact in connections - twists or ground.

You can determine the reason yourself, armed only with a minimum of knowledge and a multimeter. If you don't have time for this, contact an auto electrician. You should not delay this; the high-quality light from xenon fog lights is an important component of your safety.

We recommend starting the check with the fuses. Each headlight has its own 7.5A fuse labeled F8 and F9. They are located in the central block, but if for any reason they are not there, then look in the engine compartment near the headlights. First, determine their condition “by eye”, then, if no visible defects are found, check them with a multimeter. If both lights do not light, then the fuses are unlikely to fail. You should look for the reason elsewhere.

If both PTFs fail, then a possible cause may be burnt out lamps. This is not surprising, especially if you have installed cheap, low-quality lamps or there are surges in the on-board network. To eliminate the cause, it is necessary to disassemble the headlight and replace the lamps with working ones. We recommend choosing high-quality products, such as the Maxlum xenon lamp from a South Korean manufacturer, a high-quality product.

Determining a relay malfunction at home is possible using the good old method of replacing it with a known working one. You can also determine its functionality by clicking when turned on, even if the headlights are not working. But keep in mind that if the relay does not click, then there may be no power. The relays are located in the mounting block, of course, if we are talking about a factory installation.

If the above is normal, then you need to look for other reasons. First of all, this is the wiring from which the headlights are powered. If there are twists, check their reliability, presence of oxidation and contamination. Also a common problem is loose contact to ground from the headlights or from the relay. It must be cleaned, lubricated and securely attached to the body. And, the last of the common reasons, the power button. You can use a tester to check the voltage on the pads, or you can replace the button, which only takes a few minutes.

And you can purchase all the necessary car lighting components: lamps, flashlights, xenon and bi-xenon kits in our online store Detali812.ru. For you, our dear visitors, we have prepared a wide selection of original spare parts, car lights, oils, working fluids, tires, car accessories and everything else that is necessary for the operation of your car. Traditionally, this is complemented by affordable prices, bonuses, great deals, a convenient search system, delivery throughout St. Petersburg and online help from specialists in real time!

Identifying problems with fog lights

The car owner can begin the check in the order that is most convenient for him. But as practice shows, it is better to check the fuse first - a rather vulnerable part of any electrical circuit.

Fuse

Each of the installed “foglights” is served by its own fuse, rated 7.5A, marked F8 and F9, and which is located in the central unit. Initially, its integrity is visually assessed, then it can be checked with a multimeter. It often happens that the car was purchased second-hand, and there are simply no fuses in the block. In this case, you should look for them in the engine compartment, and most often they are located next to the headlights themselves. When both fog lights do not light up at once, you should not waste time on fuses, since there are few cases when both fuses light up at once.

Lamps in headlights

If low-quality lamps are used or the voltage in the on-board electrical network fluctuates, and the car owner knows about this, then it is not surprising that both lamps burn out at once. To check them you will have to tinker a little, disassembling the headlight. Be careful when doing this as it is quite fragile. After that, all that remains is to replace them with working ones. Watch the video to see how the replacement is carried out:

If the fog lights were installed at the factory, the relay is located in the mounting block; if it is installed independently, it can be anywhere. The easiest way to check it is to replace it with a known working one. One of the motorists “repairs” it by tapping it. When you turn on even non-working headlights with the button, the relay should make a click. If this is not the case, then it is either not working or there is no power.

Installation of fog lights on Lada Kalina

Installing foglights on Kalina does not require removing the bumper; in order to cope with the task, you just need to unscrew the front parts of the fender liners. You can remove the PTF plug in the bumper using a flat-head screwdriver. The kit for installing PTF includes a special mount, which should be installed instead of the standard plug in the bumper. The headlights themselves are installed last, using self-tapping screws.

Other causes of malfunction

If all of the above is normal, the reasons why the fog lights do not light up must be looked for elsewhere. The first thing to check is all the wiring that powers the headlights. If there are twists, be sure to check them for the strength of the connection and the presence of oxides and other contaminants. A common cause of interruptions in the operation of fog lights is poor ground contact, both on the part of the relay and the headlights themselves. They need to be cleaned, lubricated and securely fastened to the car body. Often the reason for headlights not working lies in the power button. Here you can go in two ways: either use a tester to check the voltage in the pads, or simply replace the button - the operation is completed in a few minutes.

Source: mashintop.ru

Grant's fog lights don't light up

On the deluxe it seems that all PTFs are without relyushek, it seems through APS. I have the normal ZPTF on without any clicking, which means without a relay

Front via relay. Rear - through the APS unit

Where is the IMMO located, in the panel? just above the radio

it seems that the problem is in the IMMO itself, you don’t say what you connected and where, there’s probably something in it, but there are no prevs there, and you burned it in the circuit of the PVTO,

just above the radio

It looks like the problem is in the IMMO itself, you don’t say what and where you connected it, there’s probably something in it, but there are no prevs there, and I burned out the PVTO in the circuit, I called the ICC and shortened something that I don’t know

Hello everybody. Need some advice. On the back side of the MUS there is a male-female connector, but which wire goes where and where?

Xz(blue-black) – ignition 30(pink) – plus 12 V 31(black) – ground 56(green) – low beam 58(white-black) – dimensions 58b(white) – instrument illumination 1(orange-black) – indication of switching on of the closed-circuit transformer 2( yellow) - signal to turn on PTF 3, 4 similarly front PTF (for luxury) 6 (blue-white), 56b - something related to the headlight range corrector

Bim_Sony, connected another one. No changes.

Andrey710, thanks for the advice, I’ll test it in the near future. It turns out that if the signal comes from Musa, then the problem is IMMO? It is not yet clear why the light sometimes turns on.

? It is not yet clear why the light sometimes turns on. The IMMO block also receives a signal that the GO and BS/DS are turned on. if these signals are present, then the switching on of the DCTA will be allowed!

Here are the IMMO_ norms (for luxury, like the same pins) the assignment of pins in the connector: 4-signal from the BS/DS switch (presence of +12 volts) 8-signal from the button from the MUS (contact No. 2) to turn on the ACTA (closed relative to ground with a button on the MUS.short pulse) 13-signal from the MUS that the GO is on (+12 volts) (the signal comes from the MUS, from pin 58 through fuse F9) 15-output to the CPTO lamps (IMMO will output 12 volts to the CPTO lamps, this signal goes via fuse F11 to the automatic transmission lamps in the rear lights)

The IMMO block also receives a signal that the GO and BS/DS are turned on. if these signals are present, then the switching on of the DCTA will be allowed!

Could there be a problem with IMMO?

Could there be a problem with IMMO? maybe, because as they said above, it is IMMO that controls ZPTF

Added after 2 minutes Guys, I have this problem on my Kalinka. When you turn on the headlights (headlights), they turn on automatically (I don’t press the button) ZPTF. The indicator is lit. What could be the problem? https://www.lkforum.ru/showpost.php?p=2425058&postcount=43

What could be the problem? Thank you in advance!

Caliber, replace the relay first (or open it and see what’s wrong with it). It looks like it's sticking to you.

Thank you! Where is it located, where are the fuses in the panel? Does it need to be desoldered, or is it just removed?

hi all! Tell me why every time you turn on the PTF the fuse burns out. This happens immediately after switching on. Bulbs H3 55 W 12 V

Added after 1 minute Hello everyone! Tell me why the fuse always blows when you turn on the PTF

hi all! Tell me why every time you turn on the PTF the fuse burns out. This happens immediately after switching on. Bulbs H3 55 W 12 V

Added after 1 minute Hello everyone! Tell me why the fuse always blows when the PTF is turned on. There are two reasons: 1. There is a short circuit in the power supply circuit of the PTF lamps! 2. Judging by the data on the lamps, these are not factory PTFs (factory PTFs have lamps of the H11 standard), which means that the latter were not connected correctly (it is possible that the power for the lamps was taken from a point in the wiring that is not designed for this load, so the fuse blows in this circuit. PS: it would be nice to know the rating of the fuse that constantly blows, and preferably (if it is installed in the mounting block) its number. This will make it easier to find the culprit in this problem!

DRLs don't light up on the grant - reason

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31.03.2020

Good afternoon A problem of this nature occurred: the DRL filament stopped burning and the indicator light was on. They fixed it on TO-3, but the next day everything happened again =(. I scored, a month later another lamp stopped burning. I checked the lamps, (installed new ones) it didn’t help, has anyone encountered something similar? Friends, help me out, tell me what’s wrong reason? =(

Price tag: 0 ₽ Mileage: 31900 km

Comments 13

In short, I'll take it under warranty, let them rack their brains.

That's right, then write down what the trouble was. Good luck

I went today under warranty and attended the inspection. In short, the problem was in the lamps themselves (When you start shaking them, they light up), it turns out they shook the lamps for me at TO-3 and said that there was a bad contact.

yes, they are fooling our brother ((

Are all the previous ones intact?

Is there an abnormal alarm?

Are all the previous ones intact?

If the front burnt out, then both would stop burning. (I tried)

As I understand it, you didn’t ask the reason at the maintenance? And they didn’t say it themselves either?

At first I didn’t ask, but the next day when the light stopped burning I asked. He told me that the contact was bad in the connector itself. (Although I tried the same thing myself, it didn’t help me.)

Damn, masters)) So take it back to them - let them establish contact)) It’s good if it’s a trifle, but if there’s something wrong with the wiring, then it’s fraught with trouble in the future. I read somewhere about problems with DRLs when the signal was connected incorrectly, the lamps burned out there too... Right now I can’t find the source. I read it on the Lada Granta Club, it seems.

But you yourself don’t associate any of your recent manipulations? Maybe he changed something?

When you turn on the car, the DRLs come on and two lights come on. When the headlights are turned on, the right DRL lamp does not light up, and also when the daytime running lights are turned on, all the lamps are on, but the right one is not.

The fuses are fine. Also, in the parking mode, the right brake light does not light up, although when the brake is pressed, it lights up. What could be the problem?

You turn on the dimensions - the light and backlight do not light up - 3 answers
Electric headlight corrector for Lada Granta – 1 answer
Removing headlights on Grant - 1 answer

Change the light bulbs. The lamps have two filaments - P21/4W and W21/5W.

So, flies separately, cutlets in the other direction! DRLs are DRLs, dimensions are dimensions. DRL - thick filament in the lamp, 21 watts, size - thin, 5 watts. In this case, the lamp burned out. And it’s not a fact that the new one is good, the lamps themselves burn out once a month, then one, then another.

Got distracted. It would be a good idea to check for DRL voltage on the cartridge. If indeed the new lamp is working. Or replace the left lamp with the right one.

Further. Daylight. I don't understand this term. No, in general it’s clear that there are fluorescent lamps in lamps, but I don’t know how to apply this to a car.

Further. Right stop. Here, as I understand it, this is a “luxury” package; I won’t offer anything other than diagnostics of the body electronics unit.

If you are sure that the fuses are all right (although there is a weak contact on them), then there remains a weak contact on the lamps or the absence of ground. Electrics is the science of contacts. The fuses are intact, the lamps are intact, only the contacts remain (they are weak or completely absent). Multimeter in hand and ring.

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Even more useful tips in a convenient format

Now we will try to figure out why the low beams on a Lada Granta may not turn on.

Main reasons

Consider in detail the most basic reasons for such a breakdown.

Fuses blown

The fuses in the mounting block have burned out (F12 - right side, F13 - left side). Their rating is 7.5A.

F12 - left headlight, F13 - right headlight

The fuses in the photo are marked with an arrow. (top - left headlight, bottom - right headlight)

In this case, the voltage regulator may be faulty. As a result, a power surge occurred and both fuses were blown. It is necessary to check the voltage of the electrical circuit under load.

If the problem persists after replacing the fuses, it is better to contact an automotive electrician.

If you are on the road at the time of a breakdown, you can install a “bug” instead of fuses.

Carefully insert a piece of wire into the fuse connectors, preferably one, the left fuse. In this case, do not put the cover of the mounting block back on, as you will have to conduct a visual inspection; the wire may begin to heat up.

Important. We do not recommend using bugs or higher rated ceramic fuses. Try not to overload the electrical circuits, for example, when installing a cigarette lighter splitter, route the power cable directly to the battery through an additional fuse.

Low beam bulbs burnt out

“Right low beam” burned out

The low beam bulbs burned out, both of them at once, either a coincidence, or a short one, or the low beams were not turned on at idle. At high speeds, the current is greater, so both can burn out at once. The voltage regulator may also be faulty.

The low beam contact relay is broken

Location of the contact relay in the mounting block

The low beam may not turn on due to a broken contact relay. This breakdown is a very common reason. Due to the design of the relay and its low cost, the contact group may become stuck.

Open the fuse box (mounting block).
We take out the relay number K9.
It is advisable to take a known good relay for a test drive. Or you can lightly tap the old relay with a key or coin.
Reinsert the contact relay.
Checking the low beam operation.

Light control module failure

Light control module on Grant

This fault should be checked last. The cost of a new part is about 900 rubles, so the easiest way is to replace the module with a known good one, for example, take it from another car.

Grant providers recommend installing the MUS from a luxury model.

Why don't fog lights work?

As I think, you have already seen that on the VAZ-2114 and other Samaras the headlights leave much to be desired. And in cloudy and rainy weather you feel like a hedgehog in the fog. Therefore, fog lights (FTL) significantly improve the situation and illuminate the roadside.

But it happens that at a certain moment the PTFs stop working, and you need to urgently look for the fault. In this article we will look at the main possible causes of fog lamp (FTL) failures and methods for eliminating them.

The most basic and common option is oxidation and corrosion, which appear during long-term operation and in the Russian climate. But still, we will touch on specific problems and start from the simplest to the most complex.

Fuse

Each fog light has a separate fuse F8 and F9 in a block rated at 7.5 A. Check its integrity and replace if necessary. If you did not find a fuse in the mounting block, most likely, in your case, the PTFs were installed by the previous owner. Then you need to look either near the fog lights themselves, or near the relay. If both headlights do not work, the cause of the malfunction lies elsewhere. Since it is not possible for both fuses to blow at the same time. Although everything happens in our lives.

Bulbs in PTF burnt out

In this case, all that remains is to check and replace. When you remove the lamp and look, the filament may visually remain intact, so it is better to check with a known working light bulb. Again, if both fog lights fail, this is most likely not your case.

The relay is either located in the mounting block or installed in another location if the PTFs were not equipped at the factory. The easiest option is to replace and test with a known working relay. You can also try knocking on it. When you turn on the PTF button, the relay should click. If it is not there, it is worth replacing the element. But it is necessary to check for access to power, which may not be supplied.

PTF power button

It may also fail. Changes in 1 minute.

Weight

Poor ground to the body from headlights or relays. It needs to be cleaned and secured securely.

Connecting Kalina fog lights

In addition to fog lights and mounts, the kit should include wiring, which is often missing. We recommend that you purchase several meters of wire with a cross-section of at least 0.75 sq. mm. We pull the wires from the engine compartment into the passenger compartment using a piece of wire on the starboard side through the hole above the clutch pedal. To gain access you will need to remove the front left wheel and fender liner.

The most practical places to install the PTF button are in the tunnel, or on the panel instead of the air conditioner button.

A less popular method is to connect the PTF to the light control module (LCM). We fix the relay with a hinged mount in the mounting block.