On the territory of the Russian Federation, amendments to the rules of the road (TRAF) have been in force for more than 8 years, according to which a moving vehicle during daylight hours must be indicated by low beam headlights, fog lights (FTL) or daytime running lights (DRL). Using headlights and fog lights for these purposes has a number of disadvantages. Therefore, drivers prefer to buy ready-made running light modules and install them in their cars themselves. How to properly connect daytime running lights so that their operation is safe and does not contradict current laws?
The nuances of turning on running lights
The basic requirements regarding installation, technical parameters and connection of navigation lights are listed in paragraph 6.19 of GOST R 41.48-2004. In particular, the electrical functional circuit of the DRL must be assembled in such a way that the running lights turn on automatically when the ignition key is turned (the engine starts). In this case, they should automatically turn off if the headlights are turned on.
Clause 5.12 of this standard states that headlights (FGS) should be turned on only after the lights are turned on, with the exception of short-term warning signals. When connecting DRLs yourself, this feature must be taken into account.
Correct connection of DRLs is not limited to a well-thought-out functional diagram. It's time to think about the stabilization unit for LEDs. In the running lights themselves, resistors act as a current limiter; however, due to voltage drops, resistors cannot limit the current to the same level. That is why a voltage stabilizer in the running lights connection circuit is extremely necessary. Otherwise, the service life of LED DRL modules is significantly reduced due to constant changes in on-board voltage. Some car enthusiasts claim that it is possible to connect running lights without a stabilizer.
Connecting and installing an LED driver is a waste of time, because the DRLs on LEDs shine regularly for months without any stabilization...
However, this statement is easy to dispute. The fact is that with each voltage surge, more than 12 V appears on the LED module, the forward current through the LEDs exceeds the nominal value, which leads to overheating of the emitting crystal. The brightness of the LEDs decreases, such DRLs will no longer be able to fulfill their immediate task - to warn oncoming drivers from afar, and over time they will begin to flicker and fail.
Using LED DRLs without a voltage stabilizer means spending at least several hundred rubles every year on new modules and wasting time replacing them.
For ease of understanding, the circuits below are shown without using a stabilizer.
Lada Kalina Sedan gray metallic › Logbook › Replacing side lamps with LED ones
I already wrote about replacing simple paws with LEDs. The same seller also has lamps for side lights aliexpress.ru/item/328159…042311.0.0.36ce33edxXaTUz I ordered 4 pieces, yellow. It arrived relatively quickly, about three weeks. One lamp had a cracked bulb; after showing this to the seller, we agreed that he would compensate for this, and sent me a couple more of the same lamps to match. So it was sold honestly, I advise! These are the light bulbs I received
Lamps without polarity, you can insert them any way you like. The only thing you need to pay special attention to is the socket of the socket; at the front in the side lights and at the back in the license plate illumination, they may be different. Look at what you have and in the photo, and you will understand for yourself, this has been described a long time ago and more than once I am simply repeating myself
And if in Option 1 the lamp can be inserted as is, then when installed in Option 2 the lamp must be modified. Namely, glue one contact diametrically on both sides. Otherwise, you will get a short circuit (short circuit and blown fuse). I sealed the contacts with black electrical tape, it sticks much better than blue. It turned out something like this
Then carefully insert it into place, making sure that the electrical tape is in place. I got it right the first time. It has been working for more than six months, the flight is normal. The voltage on board the network is up to 14.5 Volts, nothing has burned out yet, their stabilization protection seems to be good! I also offer a few photos after the replacement
When my friend ordered, he took a white glow, I asked and we rushed with him. But I haven’t bet white yet. They are kept in reserve. And by the way, I thought about putting the same ones in the turn signals on the sides, but that didn’t happen, they turned out to be too long, which is a pity! Well, it’s not scary, the rotary ones don’t burn for so long.
Switching on through dimensions or low beam
The second version of the DRL connection diagram involves using the power circuit of the side light bulb. To do this, the positive wire from the running lights is directly connected to the “+” from the battery. In turn, the negative wire is connected to the “+” of the side light, which is currently electrically neutral. As a result, the following current flow path is formed: from the “+” of the battery through the LEDs to the size, and then through the light bulb to the body, which serves as the minus of the entire circuit. Due to the low current consumption (tens of mA), the LEDs begin to glow, and the lamp spiral remains extinguished. If the driver turns on the side lights, then +12 V appears on the positive side of the side lights, the potentials on the DRL wires are equalized and the LEDs go out. The circuit goes into normal mode, that is, current flows through the side light bulbs.
Lada Kalina Station wagon KalinWagon › Logbook › LEDization: installation of LEDs in the interior
I've had LEDs from Aliexpress gathering dust on my desk for a week now, but I haven't had time to install it all on my car, and then I had a free minute. I went to the garage, removed the snow and away we go
