Published on August 29, 2016
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My channel subscribe friends. As I understand it, there was nothing terrible, the play in the bearings is minimal if I understand correctly? But did you hear the 5th one making a lot of noise?
Craft was always crap, tight and unreliable. Did the closing when starting off go away at all or was the flywheel crooked?
The mileage is nothing at all, and the box is already falling apart! And now tell me that the basins have become better! SHIT!
A similar situation with the release valve takes care of 30 and then replaces it
“I bought a craft product and probably ended up with a fake”)))) yes, the craft in the original is a fake, one word is crap. Sealed bearings always have lubrication, regardless of slope and acceleration, and most importantly, bearings require thicker lubrication.
On my GRANT, at about 30,000, the speeds shifted poorly, I changed the oil in the box to synthetics, the shifting became better, but it was noisy, a feature of synthetics, by the way, when I drained the oil, it was black. Now it’s 46,000, but judging by the speed sensor, the oil needs to be changed, everything is fine with the sensor. You probably need to change the oil every 25,000 instead of 2.2, better than 2.5 I do, but semi-synthetic.
I have a 2013 Granta with a cable manual transmission, the clutch ran for 100,000 and the release plate fell apart, the clutch was LUK from the factory, I installed the same one, the mileage after replacement is 15 thousand so far it seems to be working and doesn’t make noise.
they are closed so that metal shavings do not get in
When AvtoVAZ decided to install modernized transmission units on its progressive Lada Granta and Kalina models, most car enthusiasts looked at these products of the domestic automobile industry in a new way.
The updated transmission, a cable-driven gearbox, has gotten rid of the vibration that previously occurred during driving. At the heart of the design of the switching unit, instead of the previously familiar rods with the scenes, there are now connecting cables. This made it possible to eliminate the negative impact on the vibration stability of the unit.
Operations for removing the gearbox from a Lada Granta car
The gearbox is heavy and its shape does not have the correct contours, which is why it is best to carry out the work with at least two people.
1. Disconnect the wire from the negative terminal of the battery.
2. For ease of operation, remove the air filter.
4. Raise the car on a lift or hang its front part and place it on reliable supports (if you are working on an inspection ditch). For ease of operation, you can remove the front wheels.
6. If the gearbox is removed for repairs, drain the oil from it
7. Remove the four bolts securing the front clutch housing cover.
8. and remove the cover.
Read:
9. Disconnect the front suspension arms from the steering knuckles by unscrewing two bolts securing the ball joints to the knuckles on both sides of the car.
10. Leaning the mounting blade on the gearbox housing, press the left inner joints out of it.
11. and right-hand drive of the front wheels. Move the drives away from the transmission by moving the corresponding front suspension shock absorbers outward.
The movement of the shock absorber struts is prevented by the steering rods. To eliminate their influence, when disconnecting the right-hand drive from the gearbox, turn the steering wheel all the way to the left, and when disconnecting the left-hand drive, turn it to the right.
Disconnect the right drive only after removing the front cover of the clutch housing (see paragraphs 7 and 8), otherwise the mounting blade can bend the cover and the flywheel will touch it.
Do not disconnect both drives at the same time, as in this case the axle gears in the differential may move and it will be impossible to install the drives without disassembling the transmission . If it is necessary to disconnect both drives after disconnecting one of them, insert a technological plug or the old internal joint housing in its place and tie the plug or housing to the gearbox with wire so that they do not fall out when removing the box. After this, disconnect the second drive.
12. Disconnect the wiring harness connectors from the reverse light switch.
Grant gearbox cables
Removing the cable
at the cable gear selection
of the Grant gearbox
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Removing manual transmission 2181 with cable drive
This video shows the process of removing the transmission
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13. and from the speed sensor.
14. Unscrew the nuts of the two bolts securing the torque arm to the gearbox and remove the bolts.
15. and move the rod down along with the bracket,
16. Mark in any way the relative position of the transmission control rod and the shank of the gearshift rod hinge so that when reinstalling, maintain the drive adjustment.
17. Loosen the tightening of the nut of the clamp bolt securing the transmission control rod.
18. and disconnect the rod from the gear shift rod joint.
19. Disconnect the lower end of the clutch cable from the gearbox (see “Replacing and adjusting the Lada Granta clutch cable”).
20. Remove the rear bolt securing the ignition coil bracket.
21. Remove the two upper bolts securing the transmission to the engine, simultaneously securing the second support bracket. Bolt A (front in the direction of travel of the car) is short, bolt B is long. Move the throttle cable together with the bracket to the side.
Removing and disassembling the Lada Granta gearbox control mechanism
Tools:
- Driver for socket attachment
- Extension for the end attachment on the wrench
- 8mm wrench attachment
- 10mm wrench attachment
- Ratchet wrench
- 13 mm head
- Open-end wrench 13 mm
- 13 mm straight box spanner
- Small flat screwdriver
- Large flat screwdriver
- Circlip Pliers
- Pliers
- Calipers
Parts and consumables:
- Chalk
- Aerosol lubricant type WD-40
- Lubricant LSC-15
- Tie rod end bushings and damper (if required)
- Plastic shifter shaft washers (if necessary)
- Shift lever ball joint (if required)
Notes:
Remove and disassemble the transmission control mechanism to replace the plastic washers on the gear shift shaft and ball joint. Carry out the work on an inspection ditch or overpass.
1. Remove the middle mudguard as described in this article.
2. Inside the car, overcoming the resistance of the latches, use the yoke to remove the frame for fastening the gear lever cover from the hole in the floor tunnel.
Removing the gear shift cover frame:
1 – gear shift lever cover with frame;
2 – floor tunnel lining.
3. Slide the cover along with the frame along the gear shift lever.
4. Turning the cover inside out, unwind the insulating tape covering the lever cover (during subsequent assembly, the insulating tape can be replaced with a plastic clamp).
5. Pull the cover together with the frame from the gear shift lever and from the lever handle.
6. From the bottom of the car, use chalk to mark the positions of the gear selector rod hinge shank relative to the control rod (this will help with subsequent assembly of the parts).
7. Using a 13 mm spanner, loosen the nut of the clamp bolt securing the control rod to the transmission shank to remove the rod away from the gearbox.
8. Use a flat screwdriver to open the clamp and slide it along the rod.
9. Remove the control rod from the shaft of the gear shift rod joint.
10. To remove the reaction rod, use two 13 mm wrenches to loosen the nut of the coupling bolt of the clamp securing the reaction rod to the tip and remove the rod from the tip.
11. Using a 13 mm socket, unscrew the four nuts securing the base of the gear shift lever.
Note:
Removing the gearbox control mechanism (items 11-12) can be done after removing the lever from the holder (after steps 19-21).
12. Remove the gearbox control mechanism downwards.
13. Using a 13 mm socket, unscrew the nut securing the gear shift lever axis (which is also the stop for locking the reverse gear) and remove it.
14. Pull the gear shift lever out of the control rod.
15. Remove the two inner plastic and two outer metal washers, as well as the metal spacer.
16. Each of the plastic washers has one protrusion that fits into the corresponding grooves in the lever.
17. Use pliers to remove the retaining ring of the plastic shift lever insert.
18. Remove the gear shift lever together with the bushing from the ball joint cage, as well as the spring under the bushing.
19. Using a 13 mm socket, unscrew the two nuts of the gear lever ball joint bracket and remove it (shown on the installed gearbox control mechanism).
20. Separate the base of the gearbox control mechanism from the cover and lever cage.
21. Using a 13 mm socket, remove the two bolts securing the torque rod to the base of the ball joint, holding the nuts from turning with a spanner of the same size (shown on the installed transmission control mechanism).
22. Remove the jet rod.
23. With your hand on the control rod fork, pull it through the shift lever base boot and remove it.
24. Remove the cover from the gear shift lever cage.
25. If you need to replace the plastic bushings and the torque tip damper, use a 13 mm spanner to unscrew the nut securing the torque tip to the gearbox bracket and remove the tip.
26. Remove the two plastic bushings and the rubber damper from the torque rod end.
27. Assemble and install the gearbox control drive in reverse order.
Procedure for removing/installing an automatic transmission on a Lada Grant
Required materials and tools:
- a set of car keys;
- heads, ratchet;
- rags;
- extension cord, additional lighting;
- screwdrivers with different tips;
- pliers, side cutters;
- hydraulic stop / telescopic stand;
- metal brush;
- new gear oil;
- hydraulic jack / any other lifting mechanism;
- graphite-based lubricant;
- rubber / silicone hose for draining waste;
- wooden stops;
- gloves.
Catalog numbers and a list of all necessary parts
Catalog numbers of bearings, their cost
Name | vendor code |
F-846067-01 (dimensions 56 x 86 x 25) | From 1290.00 |
F846067-00 | —/— |
F846067-02 | —/— |
NA4912NBS | 1706.88 |
61912ISB | 1272.96 |
*prices are current as of November 26, 2018.
Before replacing an automatic transmission, always confirm the catalog numbers with service station specialists.
Gearbox lever play on Priora, rocker. Causes
Initially, all Priors of the early years of production suffered from increased play on the gearshift lever and, as a result, slurred and uninformative shifting. A couple of years later, AvtoVAZ heeded the groans of the owners and replaced the initially defective universal joint with the same one from the Lada Kalina.
How much this helped is known to those who installed the Kalinovsky cardan on the Priora’s rocker with their own hands. It didn’t help, at least it didn’t radically solve the issue with the lever looseness. And it’s difficult to solve it, since the design of the backstage itself (even after restyling and modification) looks dubious.
What to change in the backstage if it doesn't work
The only option to somehow improve the situation is to carefully refine each connection in the backstage with your own hands, without allowing a single inaccuracy. To do this, we will have to buy a repair kit for repairing the scenes of either the Lada Grant or the Lada Kalina.
The difficulty is that the repair kit can be hidden under a whole bunch of catalog numbers. Here are some of them:
- 110-1703317 lining of the reverse locking bracket;
- 2170-1703219 gear lever axis;
- 2190-1703086 spring;
- 2110-1703198-01 retaining ring;
- 2170-1703371 support washer, 2 pcs;
- 21100-1703041 ball support;
- 2170-1703226 spacer bushings, 2 pcs.
Catalog numbers are given for the case when the repair kit is not on sale. The price of a repair kit is about 7-9 dollars, depending on the manufacturer and the greed of the seller.
Procedure for removing a manual transmission
Required materials and tools:
- set of car keys, sockets, ratchet;
- rags;
- additional lighting;
- jack;
- graphite lubricant;
- plastic container for draining waste;
- transmission oil.
Step-by-step instructions for replacing a manual transmission
- We install the machine within the perimeter of the repair area: on an inspection hole, on a road overpass.
- We remove the terminals from the battery, preventing a short circuit in the circuit.
- We dismantle the air filter and the plastic air filter housing.
- We unscrew the fastening nuts, remove the power terminals, and dismantle the starter.
- We unscrew the mudguards and the oil pan protection (if any).
- Remove the block with wires from the reverse activation sensor.
- Disconnect the contacts from the speed sensor.
- We twist the drain plug and drain the waste from the manual transmission.
- Disconnect the clutch cable, lever fork, and bracket from the gearbox housing.
About the uniqueness of the cable unit for Granta
Replacing the rods and rockers with a cable system in the Lada Granta was intended to reduce the impact of vibration. At first, the developers were inclined to build a hydraulic circuit for the switching unit, similar to many foreign cars. Such a decision would have caused an additional increase in cost, affecting the price of the car, so the manufacturer chose a path that would take into account the financial capabilities of a wide range of buyers. The final increase in the cost of the car due to the use of a progressive cable unit reaches 5 thousand rubles. This is quite acceptable, since the price increase is insignificant, and the transmission unit is reliable.
Which is better Lada Granta liftback or Kalina 2 station wagon
Speed Lada Granta luxury speed
Note that the cable gearbox has acquired more durable forks enclosed in the shift mechanism. Previously, the manufacturer used steel parts coated with bronze. Over time, abrasion of the protective layer was observed, leading to the penetration of dust into the unit with a subsequent harmful effect on the properties of the oil.
New analog forks are endowed with increased strength and have reduced weight. Aluminum is used as the material for their manufacture. An additional measure was the use of plastic linings to protect the forks from premature wear.
Also, the manufacturer of the Lada Granta mercilessly replaced the outdated lockers and springs present in the design of the switching unit. Now the main component here is the plate, which allows you to quickly “sort out” the steps. A latch moves along the surface of this element, which conveys the “intentions” of the owner to the unit (activation of the desired gear).
The cable gearbox allowed the LADA Granta gearbox to become an attribute of comfortable control of the vehicle's driving modes. Discomfort will be guaranteed to be absent due to the leveling of vibrations.
Perhaps the future promises LADA Granta the installation of a hydraulic shift mechanism, but in the present, such a solution as a cable gearbox allows you to get maximum comfort at minimal cost. The functionality of the updated box has made it possible to sufficiently get rid of annoying problems that bring frustration and discomfort to LADA Granta owners. The differential has undergone virtually no changes (with the exception of synchronizers, as already noted). This made it possible to minimize the increase in the cost of a car with such a transmission.
The cable gearbox is very simple not only to operate, but also if repairs are necessary. This is confirmed by a separately removable switching unit, a reduced volume of lubricant and its less frequent need for replacement (after 200 thousand km or a five-year interval).
Catalog numbers, bearing names
Replacing an automatic transmission with a manual transmission and vice versa: how justified is it?
The question is ambiguous, since each owner must start from his goals. When it comes to aggressive driving style, drifting, etc., you can’t find a better mechanic.
If you are a supporter of a smooth ride, medium speeds, and fuel economy, then an automatic is the best choice. Although, if you have the skills, you can drive it on the automatic type.
The final choice is up to the owner of the technical device.
Reviews
№ | Positive |
1. | Vladimir: after two years of active operation, there are no complaints about the operation of the manual transmission. I carry out technical inspections in a timely manner, fill in semi-synthetic oil, medium speed limits, non-aggressive driving style. |
2. | Sergey: after driving a car for a year and a half, I will say the following: there were no major breakdowns, nor any unscheduled repairs. However, twice I independently tightened the drive cable on the lever. |
3. | Kirill: I took a Granta with an automatic rifle from the showroom, the car is playful, good acceleration dynamics, average fuel consumption. The build quality is satisfactory, spare parts are always available in the market and stores. |
4. | Dmitry: I recently underwent scheduled maintenance, the master assured me that the transmission was in good working order. Replaced consumables, filter, oil. I have been actively using the car for two years now. The manufacturer indicates a resource of 180 - 200 thousand km before major repairs. Let's see how much mine comes out. |
5. | Vasily: at 65,000 km I replaced the rubber boot once, since the previous one was defective. There were no other breakdowns, consumables were replaced as usual. |
6. | Ivan: my positive review of the Lada Granta car. This is my second year of driving actively, and in a month I hit two months’ worth. I'm pleased with the build quality of the transmission, no complaints. |
7. | Vitaly: the manufacturer recommends changing the transmission oil every 60,000 km, in practice my interval is 50,000 km. I believe that the fresher the oil, the more useful substances are retained in it to protect and lubricate the gearbox gears. |
Negative | |
1. | Ivan: I do not agree with the manufacturer’s statements about the service life of 180,000 km. Already at 80,000 km the cable drive was replaced. In the process, other minor breakdowns were eliminated. The model is crude, there are many shortcomings and defects that are not eliminated from year to year. |
2. | Vasily: after 75,000 km, my automatic transmission began to change gears with a certain delay (pause). After visiting a service station, the technician diagnosed a defect in the control unit and solenoid. |
3. | Gennady: in general, the transmission is good, but there are a number of shortcomings and defects that need to be eliminated. In order not to be fooled in the future, I plan to buy a Renault Logan. The model is proven, the weaknesses are known, there are not so many of them. |
Conclusion The design of a standard transmission is quite complex, regardless of whether it is manual or automatic. In case of repairs and preventive maintenance, prepare thoroughly and study the methodological recommendations.
When it comes to major transmission repairs, use the services of service station professionals. At a special diagnostic stand, technicians conduct tests and calibrate the operation of the box. Upon completion, they provide a quality guarantee for the block of work performed.
How to replace the clutch cable of a Lada Granta
On the Lada Granta, the cable-driven clutch is a fairly reliable element. However, the drive itself wears out quite actively during the operation of the vehicle, resulting in:
- Grant's clutch cable stretches and breaks (the problem is solved by replacing the clutch cable);
- the Grant clutch is also adjusted (the required pedal travel and the moment of “grabbing” the clutch are set);
It is important to take into account a number of nuances both when removing the old cable and when installing and subsequently adjusting the new cable. Read more in our article.