The battery for a Lada Granta car must meet the stated requirements. The manufacturer installs standard batteries. If the charging light is constantly on after starting or the car stops starting altogether, the battery needs to be replaced.
The Lada Granta car is equipped with engines and gearboxes of various types. It is important to consider this point when choosing a battery. There are a number of parameters that must be followed. Otherwise, problems may arise with the operation of the vehicle; the purchased battery will last an order of magnitude less.
Original factory Lada Granta battery
The main parameters to consider when purchasing a new battery:
- capacity;
- starting current;
- overall dimensions, polarity.
Service life and when is it better to change
The service life of standard car batteries is 3-5 years. In some cases, it can last up to 7 years, but due to the poor quality of Russian roads (increased vibration) and heavy loads on the battery (driving in winter and in traffic jams), the plates of such batteries begin to crumble much earlier.
Even if 3-4 years have passed since the release of the new car, it may be necessary to install a new battery. To avoid a moment when the power source is completely dead and the machine is unable to move further, it is recommended to install a new product in advance.
If the first signs of a battery malfunction appear (rapid discharge, the car does not start well as a result of a decrease in starting current), then it is imperative to replace the battery before the onset of winter. At this time of year, the load on the power source increases significantly, which can lead to its failure at the most inopportune moment.
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On a note
Daily discharges to zero kill the battery. It is better to prevent illness than to put up with the fact that the battery quickly loses its charge when driving a car. If a moment of intense discharge occurs, it is useful to identify it and refrain from cranking the starter again.
What to do to prevent the battery from draining quickly
- Charging with a low current (about 1-2 A) prevents the initial sulfation of the plates. Connect the charger once a month at night and a regular battery will last 5-6 years without problems, and an AGM or EFB battery will last even longer.
- Learn how to properly store your battery in the garage and at home. When parked in the cold for more than a day, remove the power source and bring it into a warm room (no more than +25°C).
- Regularly clean the terminals on the car and the down conductors on the power source with a special brush for battery terminals (pictured) or a simple sandpaper. Oxides cause undercharging.
- With the arrival of cold weather, recharge the product more often to 100% with normal current (10% of capacity).
- Keep the outer surface of the battery clean. You can wipe with a 10% solution of ammonia and soda ash, then wipe dry.
- If the battery is serviceable, clean the holes in the lids of the cans with a thin wire. Check the electrolyte level before charging. Standard: +10…15 mm from the safety shield. Compare the density of the electrolytic fluid with the voltage.
- Periodically test the on-board network for current leaks.
How to find out if the battery is almost discharged
By load. Both methods for checking the battery upon purchase and ordinary observation are relevant:
- The starter barely turned the engine shaft.
- When you turn on the heated seats/windows or headlights, the radio turns off.
Good evening everyone, yesterday I came home from work as usual, turned off all the electrical consumers and locked the car. This morning I started it and the battery was completely dead, the electrician at work said there was a leak, but I don’t know where to even start looking. Today after work I throw on the mass and it sparks even though everything is turned off. engine 402, no signal!
Comments 26
I had this happen in my Zhiguli, I came in the morning and Akum was not alive or dead, it turned out that the tape recorder had shorted out or something happened, in short, the battery was completely dead after I threw out the Mayfun, everything returned to normal.
I actually forgot to turn off the heater and the heated glass at night, and nothing “leaked”, it started at the drop of a hat... Simple light bulbs in the doors won’t kill the Akuma, it’s short somewhere in a large consumer, or the Akum died (Try how it holds load at start-up must be at least 10.5V)
THE BATTERY IS 2 MONTHS OLD AND IS ATTACHED TO 75A
look in short. take a tester. set it to ampere mode. one probe for the battery, the other for the negative terminal. Naturally, the terminal from the battery must be removed.
Everything in the car is turned off.
look at the readings on the tester. what the tester will show is the leak itself
then one stands looking at the tester and the second takes turns pulling out the fuses
when you pull out one of the fuses, the readings on the tester should drop sharply
What batteries are included at the factory?
The domestic auto industry is characterized by savings. Savings have not been spared on batteries either. AvtoVAZ decided not to change its traditions. At the same time, they did not take into account one of the most important facts for Russia. Namely, a very large number of domestic cars are sold in the northern regions of our country, where it is very important that the battery is reliable and performs its functions efficiently.
When the Granta is assembled on a conveyor belt, a standard 55-amp battery capacity with a starting current of 425 starting amps is installed in it. This capacity is too weak for cold climates. With the best options, such a battery on a Lada will not be able to work for more than one year. This battery can only work for a longer period of time when the hot sun is shining outside the window.
Now let's get to the main question...
Which battery is best for the Lada Granta?
If you want your car to give you a confident start, then the best option would be to discard the originally installed battery. It can be sold, and a much more suitable battery can be installed in its place.
To reveal all the parameters for choosing a battery, you should:
- Find out the polarity of the product, since under no circumstances should you use a battery with the wrong polarity;
- Take a measurement. Three main indicators must be known (width, length and height);
- Find out the capacity. If, for some reason, you have little understanding of battery parameters, it is best to take a photo of the old battery before going to the car market or auto shop. In this case, the seller will be able to help with the choice.
Many car enthusiasts say that buying and installing a battery with a larger capacity in their car is not true, as undercharging may occur. However, this hypothesis is not correct. This can happen if the product is selected significantly beyond the standards. In this case, he will not be able to work with the system. To find the best option, it is best to look at the technical documentation of the car. The paragraph with recommendations will contain a comprehensive answer regarding the use of the battery, and in our case, which battery is best for the Lada Granta car.
Plus, you should pay attention to the technology by which the product is manufactured. When using antimony, there will be gas emissions during operation. This means that constant addition of water is necessary. In the case when the battery is calcium, then attention should be paid directly to the charge. If silver was used in production, the quality will be much higher, however, the price of such units is much more expensive.
When considering the question of which battery is best for a Lada Granta car, one cannot help but consider the manufacturers of these products...
Solution
First of all, I signed up for the service. But we still had to somehow get to the service. And for this it was necessary to charge the battery.
There were several options: light a cigarette from another car, use a booster, or charge the battery at home. None of these options were available to me that evening, so I asked a friend to take a battery charger with me to work, and I reset the terminal for the night - maybe there would be enough charge in the morning to start? (not enough)
It’s good that all this happened in the parking lot, because I couldn’t close the doors and the car was standing open
Lada Assistance or Roadside Assistance
The next day at work, I remembered that all automakers have roadside assistance programs within the warranty period. AvtoVAZ also found one. What’s noteworthy is that this program has two names and both of them are in the title of this section =)
In a telephone conversation, polite operators clarified the fault of our newsa and asked to describe the nature of the problem. Everything would be fine, but I was at work, and in order to draw up an application they needed to get photographs from me in three angles:
- General plan with numbers
- Vin on the body
- Photo of the tidy
I had to urgently fly to the “swallow” during lunch and send the data by mail.
This is how you could contact employees to send files. It's a pity that they ignore telegrams.
After waiting 10 minutes (time to check the mail), I re-contacted the Lada Assistance operators and asked to check the mail. They confirmed my request and said that a specialist would arrive within an hour.
In a conversation with the operators, I honestly said that I don’t know why the battery suddenly died and asked them to take me to the dealer for service to diagnose the problem.
At that moment it seemed to me that an employee would soon arrive in a branded tow truck and help solve the problem. But these were all my expectations; the reality was more prosaic.
An hour after the call was confirmed, an old, seasoned Nexia without any identification marks drove up to me, from which a silent man came out and asked what happened to me. After my brief story, the man connected the booster to the battery and ordered it to start.
I had not yet managed to get out of the car, and he was already getting ready to leave, handing me a piece of paper to sign stating that I had been helped and had no complaints. I really didn’t have them - the car just started. But it is very strange that of all the employee’s working tools, only the stamp on the letterhead was branded. Somehow it doesn't seem very corporate.
Ultraspy photo from inside the car while the technician was assembling the booster. His vehicle is in the background.
After successfully starting the engine, I quickly drove 40 km along the WHSD to allow the battery to charge and prevent further embarrassment before tomorrow's service visit.
After a trip along the WHSD, the voltage in the network returned to normal.
What characteristics should you look for when choosing
First of all, you should pay attention to the dimensions. The optimal battery size is the following parameters:
- Length: 242 mm.
- Width: 175 mm.
- Height: 190 mm.
Another most important characteristic is the location of the terminals on the battery cover. On domestic cars it can only be straight. (plus is on the left, and minus is on the right;)
Batteries for the Lada Granta car have a voltage at the terminals of 12 Volts, but in terms of capacity and starting current, such products can differ significantly. As a rule, this parameter is directly related to engine displacement and power.
Selection by capacity and starting current power
Since the original battery on the Grant is installed with a capacity of 55 Ah, you should not violate these requirements. It won't be any better for two reasons:
- Firstly, the battery will not be fully charged, which may affect its service life
- Secondly, the generator will constantly work at maximum to try to charge the battery, resulting in excessive heating of its parts and even failure of some of them.
From personal experience of using a battery with a capacity of 65 Ah, I can say that in half a year I had to change 3 diode bridges. But as soon as I changed the battery to a 55, such problems no longer arose.
So, of those considered with a capacity of 55 Ampere hour, I liked Bocsh Silver, the price of which was 3,450 rubles. Silver class are batteries that can confidently start the engine even at the lowest temperatures. So, if the winters in your region are very harsh, then I recommend taking a closer look at these models.
Regarding the starting current, I can say the following: on my native AKOM this value was only 425 Amperes, which was clearly not enough in severe frosts. But on the Bosch I chose, the starting current was 530 Amperes. Agree that the difference is simply huge. After purchase, I tried to start it at -30 degrees, and there couldn’t be any hint of “electrolyte freezing.”
In general, I was pleased with the choice, and I hope that the battery will serve its 5 years on my Grant. After all, such a period is far from the limit for a German manufacturer!
AvtoVAZ equips its Lada Granta, Lada Kalina, Lada Priora and Lada 4x4 cars with the same batteries, which, as a rule, require replacement after the first winter. Simple tips in this article will help you determine which battery is best to choose to replace the standard battery.
On cars Lada Granta, Lada Kalina, Lada Priora and Lada 4x4, in 99% of cases, a battery (6CT55A) called AKOM “Standard” with a capacity of 55 Ah and a starting current of 425 Amperes is installed from the factory. When choosing a new battery, these values should not be lower. You should not focus only on ampere hours, since products from different manufacturers with the same capacity can differ quite significantly in other parameters.
When going to the store, the procedure for choosing a new battery should be something like this:
- The polarity and size must match the old battery.
- Choose a brand (see rating below).
- A unit of measurement of charge (in the old fashioned way called “capacity”). The amount of electricity that a battery is capable of delivering during a long-term discharge mode. We choose, as AvtoVAZ recommends (55 A*h), it is allowed to choose a capacity slightly higher than the rated capacity. The saying “a battery with a larger capacity than the standard one will not be charged” is not true.
- The starting current must be at least 425 A. This parameter is an indirect indicator of the quality of the car battery: the higher it is, the lower its internal resistance! In other words, the higher this parameter, the greater the chances of starting the engine in winter.
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How to properly charge the Lada Vesta battery?
Regardless of why the battery on the Vesta runs out, it must be charged using a special device. How to charge the Vesta battery correctly, so as not to disrupt the settings of the car’s electronic devices and not harm the battery itself?
In order to properly service the battery, it is necessary to determine whether it is serviceable or not. It's easy to do:
- The serviced battery has plugs in the upper part of the case. They are equipped with plastic or rubber plugs that are removed if necessary and provide access to the cans. Such devices are standard Akom, Vesta Red and most products from Russian factories.
- A maintenance-free battery does not have such plugs, and it is impossible to add water or electrolyte to it. Mainly foreign brands are maintenance-free: Varta, Bosh, etc.
The process of charging a serviceable battery is quite simple. It must be done in a room with good air access and no open fire. In order to charge the battery you need:
- Remove the battery from the car;
- Prepare the terminals by cleaning them with a soda solution and a soft cloth. Heavily dirty and oxidized terminals can be treated with fine sandpaper;
- Unscrew and remove the plugs in the upper part of the housing;
- Connect the charger, observing the polarity. The current to be supplied should be 10% of the battery capacity. Vesta has a 62Ah battery installed from the factory, so the supplied current should be 6.2A;
- A completely discharged battery takes approximately 8 hours to charge. During charging, you need to monitor the battery, and when strong gas emission appears, continue charging it for no more than 3 hours. During the process, it is also necessary to control the temperature of the electrolyte. If it is more than 40°C, charging must be temporarily suspended until the liquid has cooled by half.
- A charged battery will show a voltage at the terminals of 15.9-16.2 V. The electrolyte density will be 1.27 g/cm3. If these indicators correspond to the norm, then the battery is ready for use.
A maintenance-free battery is charged using a special device that gradually reduces the current throughout the entire process. If there is no special device for charging this type of battery, it is charged with a current of 5% of its capacity. The process in this case will be longer and will be approximately 30 hours.
Some drivers prefer to charge the battery without removing it from the car. They motivate this by the fact that when the power supply is removed, the settings of some devices are lost. But the manufacturer strongly recommends not to do this . The car manual states that the battery should only be charged with the battery removed.
Which models are worth paying attention to?
The optimal solution for replacing the battery both for cars equipped with engines with 8 valves and for sixteen-valve models is to purchase a 60 Ah battery. A good replacement for a standard battery are:
- Varta Blue Dynamic D43 - this model is at the top of the list of replacing the original battery with high-quality analogues. The battery has high starting current values, tolerates operation well at low temperatures and does not require additional maintenance other than timely recharging (if necessary).
- Berga BB-H5R 60 is an inexpensive but high-quality battery for cars. Ideal for both Korean and Russian cars, including Lada Granta.
- Rombat P260G - this battery is a good alternative to domestic batteries for the Lada Granta. The product is fully suitable both in size and electrical parameters.
The listed models are recommended to be used first if there is a need to replace the standard battery.
Capacity
This characteristic refers to a parameter that determines the amount of energy stored in the battery. Many vehicle owners believe that by purchasing a battery with a large charge, they save a lot. But it is important to avoid such acquisitions. Since the vehicle generator is designed for a different parameter. Therefore, the battery simply will not be fully, 100% charged.
The optimal parameter for the Lada Grant is 62 Ah. This is precisely the characteristics of the batteries that will be optimal. At the same time, a battery with a smaller capacity simply will not start the car engine. Therefore, it is advisable to avoid purchasing a battery with a parameter that is too low.
Characteristics of the original battery for LADA Granta
The manufacturer offers for installation in the basic configuration a battery of the domestic brand “Akom” - model 6CT-60 pp. The mentioned device belongs to the category of maintenance-free batteries; it is assembled using German technologies. The average service life of the product is about 3 years. The manufacturer's warranty is provided for 1 year (over 100 Ah) or 3 years (up to 100 Ah). Original
battery for Lada Granta
characterized by the following basic parameters:
- nominal capacity: 60 A/h;
- cold cranking current indicator (tested at -18 0C): 520 A;
- voltage (nominal value): 12 V;
- connection: using terminals;
- product dimensions (height including terminals): 24.2x17.5x19 cm;
- polarity type: straight.
If you follow the recommendations for operating the device and perform regular maintenance and repairs, the battery will serve reliably for a long time. Experts recommend carefully monitoring the electrolyte level in the jars and replenishing the fluid as necessary. The product is adapted to work in severe winter frosts, as well as other extreme conditions.
Loss of on-board voltage in the controller
Code P1602 is entered if the following conditions are met:
ignition on; The controller has detected a loss of RAM data. Clear the codes using the Errors menu.
If the code is entered again, check the power supply circuit from the battery to contact “18” of the controller.
#1 Zulus
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Post edited by Zulus: 07 December 2010 — 21:56
#2 napoxoq
alchemist sledgehammer and some mother
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Is there a signal? What is blocking?
What is code 1602? I don’t even remember this, and the ardio didn’t tell me. Are you sure you didn’t mix up any numbers? Or the marshrutnik is a storyteller, he identified the wrong block. Immo, when you disconnected the jumper, did you set it, or did you block it, saying it won’t register on its own?
#3 Sasha
Administrator22150 messages
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Before ordering modified software, carefully read the RULES
Attention! I don't work with car owners! I do not work with firmware “readers and uploaders”!
For work issues, available from 8.00 to 17.00 Moscow time . Requests received after this time will be reviewed the next day. Attention! Ordering the missing modified software in the APC Client database is available from your personal account on the store website.
#4 Zulus
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P1602 “Loss of on-board power supply voltage in the controller.” There are several reasons in your case. 1. When trying to start on a dead battery, when the voltage drops below 6V. 2. Non-contact in power wires, ignition switch, frozen and incorrectly installed alarm system, etc.
#5 napoxoq
alchemist sledgehammer and some mother
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Yeah! This is the one that swears when, with the ignition on and the GR control signal is applied, there is no or little voltage at the voltage input from the GR. Change the gearbox, I had a Priora like this last year! I check - everything is there. And “sometimes” it stalls and complains about a power failure. I couldn’t call, everything was fine and no complaints, I changed the relay at random. It's been a year already.
Dimensions and polarity
It is important to arm yourself with a ruler or tape measure before going to the store. Since there are special parameters related to the installation location and battery connection. The standard parameters of the niche where installation is carried out have the following dimensions:
- length – 242 mm;
- height – 190 mm;
- width – 175 mm.
The standard type of fastening is also used - B13. It is important to remember exactly where the battery terminals are located. All AVTOVAZ vehicles use “straight” polarity. The terminals are placed in a similar way on Korean, Japanese, and Chinese cars. Determining the type of polarity is quite simple:
- place the battery facing the viewer;
- look at the location of the positive circuit.
If the positive contact is on the left and the negative contact is on the right, then you have a battery with straight polarity. You need to familiarize yourself with all the features and nuances of choice in advance. This is the only way to avoid making standard, typical mistakes.
Charging the battery
The battery itself does not produce electric current; its function is only to store it. The necessary supply of electricity in the battery is maintained by the generator, constantly recharging it. The battery life depends on the number of charge and discharge cycles. The more there are, the smaller the capacity becomes.
Before you start charging, there are several important factors to consider. The charging current should correspond to 10% of the rated capacity, that is, if the latter is 55 A/h, then the optimal current should be no more than 5-6 A. The voltage at the terminals should exceed the rated voltage by 10%.
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The battery dies after a week of parking
#1 OFF SITE Swed
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#2 OFF SITE symbioz
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Radio? I had a similar situation, but the installer attached it past the ignition switch and it was constantly eating up the battery. In this mode, the Akuma in the garage lasted for two to three weeks. When I got tired of this, I spat on the guarantee and climbed in myself, let it through the lock, then the situation changed radically. Plus, if you have an amplifier, also look at how it is powered. I connected it via a relay, the coil is closed - it plays, if not - it is turned off.
Tape recorder - Hyundai. was.
Post edited by symbioz: 31 January 2013 — 11:56
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Post edited by Swed: 31 January 2013 — 12:09
#6 OFF SITE symbioz
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I had a crocodile on the signal, compared to the radio, it ate a minimum. There may also be interior lighting lamps on the 5th door. Mine glowed when any door was ajar, and the light in the trunk glowed. I installed the button and the problem disappeared. Plus extras: such as pop-up warmers, chargers, cigarette lighter splitters, navigator. etc. Disable them and try.
How to start a grant in cold weather
1. We will assume that you have safely opened the doors and sat down on the extremely cold seat. At the very first moment it may seem that nothing in life can be colder than Grant’s chair at -25. Insert the key and turn on the ignition. Ignition only, no need to try to start it. 2. Your daytime running light will automatically turn on.
This will give a certain movement of electrolyte molecules inside the battery. They will begin to “come to life”. To make this process go faster, turn on the low beam headlights for 20 seconds. 3. After 20 seconds, be sure to turn off the headlights! We de-energize the entire car, no playing music or lights on the ceiling, we need maximum charge to provide starting current. 4.
We put the car at neutral speed (I hope you leave the car at speed at night, and not on the handbrake - otherwise there is a high probability of not going anywhere even with the engine running). We leave the clutch intact. 5. Turn the key and listen to how the starter rotates. In the best case, the starter will turn a couple of times and the engine will start; if this does not happen, we continue to turn the starter for about 7 seconds.
In the end, if the starter rotates at least somehow, with a working injection system and engine, the latter should start! 6. If the engine does not start, under no circumstances should we try to start it again! Turn off the ignition, smoke, or suck on a lollipop if you don’t smoke. Because all the starting current was spent on rotating the starter for the previous 7 seconds, and we must let it accumulate again.
This will take approximately two minutes. 7. Let's try again. This time without the low beams on. If the starter starts to turn better, the engine must start. If the starter does not turn, then there are two options: we look for a cigarette lighter, or we remove the battery and go home to warm it up. 8. Remember, the minus is always removed from the battery first!
Put everything on in reverse order. Those. if you throw on wires from another car, the plus should be thrown on first. Then - minus. Shoot in reverse order. 9. If there is no way to light a cigarette in another car, and dragging the battery home is not an option, all that remains is to start the grant from a pusher!
Although in winter, in severe frost, this will not be easy to do, but it is possible. To do this, turn on the ignition, depress the clutch and engage second gear. Don't release the clutch. When the towed vehicle accelerates to 20-30 km/h, slowly begin to release the clutch. If the car's spark plugs are in order and the fuel system is working without failure, the combustible mixture will ignite and the engine will start. 10.
New Lada: Vesta Cross VS Lada XRAY: an unbiased comparison of the flagships of the domestic automotive industry
Remember, even if you managed to start the car in -30 below zero, its control needs special attention. Because in such weather almost all liquids freeze in a car, thereby their functionality may deteriorate. For example, the oil in the struts will work out the pits worse, the handling will change in a negative direction, the tires will be more oaky, which means road grip will deteriorate, the oil in the transmission will also change its viscosity, which will affect the smoothness of gear shifting and the operation of gearbox elements in general. All these nuances must be taken into account when driving in cold weather.
Natural causes
Very coldy
In cold weather, the temperature of the electrolyte drops, which causes a slowdown in chemical reactions. An electrolyte of normal density (1.28 g/cm 3 ) does not freeze down to -60 o C, but at a temperature of -40 o C it is no longer able to start the engine. But what we mean is the temperature of the electrolyte, and not the ambient air, that is, you can maintain battery performance in cold weather in the following ways:
- Warm up the engine periodically in cold weather while parked
- Remove the battery from the car and store it in a warm place
It is also recommended to warm up the battery before starting the engine by turning on the side lights for 5 minutes. The temperature of the electrolyte will rise, which will significantly “revive” the chemical reactions.
What to do if the battery is dead
It is best to recharge the battery if it is completely discharged. If the battery is completely damaged, you need to purchase a new one. But it often happens that a car with a faulty battery needs to be started. In this case, you need to follow the algorithm:
- You need to turn on the low beam headlights for 20 seconds - this will create the movement of molecules inside the battery;
- move the gear shift lever to the neutral position, keep the clutch depressed;
- after the specified time has passed, the light will need to be turned off and the ignition turned on;
- Turn the starter - the engine should start in the first two revolutions.
Car battery device
If the engine does not start, then you need to turn the starter for no more than 7 seconds. Then the ignition should be turned off for at least 2 minutes. Then try to start the engine again. If you still can’t start the engine this way, you need to take the battery into the house, warm it up and recharge it. Or “light” the car, try to start it with outside help “from the pusher”.
It is not difficult to purchase a new battery today, but it is important to remember that it must comply with all the parameters established by the manufacturer.
Lada Granta battery and features of its operation
Our domestic Granta, whose battery requires some care, will not be able to survive in the absence of attention to the technical part. So, in order to extend battery life, you need to:
– Monitor the electrolyte level.
If necessary, distilled water should be added, which should be in the “collection” of every car owner.
– Periodically charge the battery.
This rule is relevant, again, for residents of the northern regions. Even if you are sure that the car will start tomorrow, you should not neglect prevention.
– Monitor the functionality of the generator and regulator relay.
Their incorrect operation can greatly affect the performance of the battery. It is necessary to monitor the presence of current leakage in the networks.
Signaling
When dealing with a “non-standard” signaling system, assessing it for the presence of “glitches” is goal No. 1. One of the symptoms is spontaneous unlocking/locking of doors. It is possible that the operation is correct, but one of the functions is not connected correctly. For example, auto start may not fully work due to the deactivated handbrake sensor, but the headlights or DRLs will turn on.
Possible problems with nutrition. To identify them, you can check the current leakage on a locked car:
- Raise the hood.
- Remove one of the terminals.
- Connect the tester in ammeter mode (10A).
- Pinch the hood position sensor.
- Security the car using the key fob.
- Take readings.
Features of choice
Features of operation
If you do not pay attention to the battery in the Lada, then it will not be able to please you for long. The product requires care.
Here's what you need to do to ensure your battery has a long life:
- Check and monitor the electrolyte. If there is little electrolyte, distilled water should be added to special hatches. This water can be purchased at any auto store. Any car owner should have it;
- Charge the battery regularly. This item is directly related to Lada Granta owners living in the northern regions. If you are overly confident that the vehicle will start after a frosty night, it is better not to tempt fate, but to recharge the battery, and in the morning it will start without problems;
- Check the operation of the regulator relay and the functioning of the generator. If they do not work correctly, the performance of the battery capacity is greatly reduced.
Why does the battery run out on a Priora?
By and large, all the reasons for the rapid discharge of the battery on a Priora can be divided into two categories:
- those that are specific to this model;
- general reasons that occur regardless of the make, model and configuration of the vehicle.
Let's look at the first ones first.
Many car owners note that the problem of rapid discharge of the Priora battery is related to the audio system. The fact is that the power cable of the car radio is not connected to the ignition switch, as a result of which the radio is powered directly from the battery. Which, in fact, leads to excessive power consumption, especially when the engine is turned off. So, instead of changing batteries every six months to a year, you should look for a radio model that can automatically turn off. As an option, you can mount a switch in the gap of the red wire, bringing it to a convenient place. Thus, if you are away for a long time, you will be able to turn off the audio system manually.
The problem may lie in the generator itself. Priora is equipped with either domestic or Belarusian generators. Both are considered weak for this model, since when the internal combustion engine is running at idle speed and with the headlights on, they are not able to supply the required 13.5 volts to the battery. That is, the battery does not charge under such conditions. And they, these conditions, are not uncommon in a big city.
As a result, batteries quickly run out, especially imported ones, which are charged at 13.8 V and higher, and the optimal value is 14 V. If you can set the regulator to these 14 volts, the light bulbs will immediately start to fly out, the brake lights will burn out first. It will not be possible to solve the dilemma in any other way, and if the car is operated in purely urban mode, with short trips and the total duration of the engine operation in the region of 30–45 minutes, you will have to increase the voltage. Replacing light bulbs is not as expensive as buying a new battery.
Now let's move on from considering specific problems to general ones. There are not many of them, these are the main situations that lead to battery discharge literally overnight:
- current leaks associated with malfunctions of the on-board electrical network;
- problems on the generator side;
- old (worn out) battery;
- unsuitable external conditions.
Leaks on the network
Worn wiring can “short to ground”; for older cars this is a common and unobvious reason for the battery losing charge. Equipping a car with power-hungry additional equipment such as a DVR or navigator can also load the generator so much that it will not be able to charge the battery.
An alarm system installed by home-grown specialists is a common reason why the Lada Priora battery runs out. However, even a properly installed alarm, when triggered, causes rapid battery discharge.
Generator faults
If the battery is undercharged or does not receive a charge at all while the engine is running, then sooner or later the car owner will be faced with a situation where he will not be able to start the car in the morning. Even if the battery is new.
It is not possible to diagnose almost all generator-related faults without using a multimeter. But if you have such a device and the skills to use it, then you can find the culprit yourself.
The main problems on the generator side, leading to the inability to charge the battery:
- diode bridge burnout;
- weakening/oxidation of contacts, damage to wiring;
- voltage regulator failure;
- loosening of the drive belt.
Problems with the belt and pulley, however, can be determined visually, as well as loose contacts and damage to the electrical wiring.
Battery wear
“Correct” drivers, who scrupulously follow all manufacturers’ recommendations, actually achieve maximum battery life indicators comparable to those declared. But even in this case, it is not possible to avoid loss of capacity. This process is inevitable and extended over time, but sooner or later there comes a time when the battery can no longer restore a charge sufficient to crank the starter.
Incorrect operation of the vehicle
This reason has many similarities with the previous one. Even if we do not consider the banal forgetfulness of drivers who leave electrical appliances on, the human factor plays an important role in premature battery wear. In particular, we are talking about the already mentioned short-term trips, when the battery simply does not have time to restore the charge spent on starting the engine. Lack of battery care (and it is necessary even for maintenance-free batteries) also affects its service life.
Common battery problems and how to fix them
In what other cases may replacement be required:
- If cracks appear on the device body. Due to mechanical damage to the case, electrolyte may leak from the structure of the device, and accordingly, this will lead to a decrease in charging. Operation of the device with a damaged housing is not allowed. If the damage is minor, you can try to eliminate it using cold welding, but as practice shows, this is not always possible.
- If the battery is constantly draining. It happens that at the most crucial moment the battery loses its charge. Charging can fail for various reasons, ranging from cracks on the case to destruction of the plates inside the structure. In case of such a problem, first of all you need to charge the device; for this, a charger is used. Perhaps this method will allow you to replenish the charge, but if the reason lies in the destroyed plates, then replacement still cannot be avoided.
- Another problem in the operation of the device is the oxidation of contacts. For this reason, the connection between the battery and the vehicle’s on-board network may be disrupted, and accordingly, this may lead to the inoperability of some devices. An oxidation problem can be caused by evaporation of the electrolyte. If you notice that the terminals on the device have oxidized, then they need to be cleaned, only carefully so as not to remove the top layer of the outputs. For cleaning you can use a hard toothbrush or sandpaper.
- Destruction of plates. This problem usually occurs as a result of regular charging and discharging cycles. If the plates begin to collapse, there is no way to fix this problem; in any case, it will be necessary to replace it.
- Electrolyte boiling away. A lack of working fluid in the battery banks can also cause the device to malfunction. To avoid such a problem, you need to periodically check the fluid level in the device. The electrolyte must cover all jars, and it must also be clean. If you notice that the solution level is insufficient, you need to replenish it yourself; for this, use ordinary distilled water.
Causes of battery leakage current
The purpose of the battery is to start the engine and help the generator provide power to the consumers of the on-board network if the latter cannot cope with the load. During the trip, the battery is recharged from the generator and compensates for the discharge. In theory, a car battery should not lose charge while parked, but there is a leakage current. Moreover, in modern cars, where there are a lot of electronics, the leakage current increases and often exceeds the norm.
- worn out or poor quality wiring, insulation;
- incorrect connection of electronics (sound system, TV, etc.);
- dirty, oxidized contacts.
It is important to understand that leakage current from a car battery can lead not only to battery discharge, but also to a wiring fire. A discharged battery is unpleasant in itself, but if the leakage current is not brought back to normal, the consequences of this phenomenon will be much worse.
Therefore, it is important to detect the cause of the leakage current and eliminate it. How to find the culprit of this phenomenon?
