The Niva car or VAZ-2121 is one of the most successful developments of domestic engineers. Having begun mass production in 1977, the car was in demand not only in the USSR, and then in Russia, but also abroad. In some countries, fan clubs of this model have even been created. The first Nivas were equipped with a three-door body and a carburetor engine with an output of 80 hp.
They rolled off the assembly line with virtually no changes in design and technical characteristics until 1993. In 1994, car enthusiasts saw a modified body and an 82.8-horsepower engine. The car was named VAZ-21213 Niva. Then the Niva VAZ-21214 appeared, on which, starting in 2002, injection power units began to be installed. In 2006, the name Niva officially ceased to exist. The car, until 2021, was called “LADA 4×4”, and now it is “Lada Niva Legend”.
From the very moment of its creation, until today, the Lada-Niva has been distinguished by the extreme degree of reliability of all components and assemblies. It is not for nothing that a huge number of these cars continue to travel on roads and off-roads, despite the fact that they came off the assembly line several decades ago. But, which is quite natural, the older the car, the more breakdowns there are. Along with the transmission, engine and body, failures of motion control systems occur, which include the speed control system.
In the article we will look at the reasons why the speedometer on the Niva does not work, using the VAZ-21213 and VAZ-21214 as an example, since these cars are the most typical and widespread representatives of the family of Tolyatti SUVs. But first, briefly about the structure of the speedometer itself and the principle of its operation.
Speedometer
The basis of the speedometer design is:
- speed sensor;
- electronic control unit;
- display.
The speed sensor receives indirect information about the speed of the vehicle, which is removed from the drive located in the transfer case. This is typical only for Niva. In other cars, the gear drive of the speedometer is installed on the output shaft of the box or on the drive of the front left wheel.
The sensor, converting the drive speed into electrical impulses (using the resulting Hall effect), transmits them to the electronic unit, which processes the signal and sends it to the display. The latter shows on its screen what the current speed of the car is. Data can be presented as numbers or a scale on digital displays, or indicated by a moving arrow pointing to the values on a graduated scale on analogue indicators.
For your information. The electronic unit, receiving and processing information, sends it not only to the speedometer display, but also to the fuel supply system. The higher the speed, the more fuel will flow into the engine. It is also interesting that the program contains an algorithm that prevents the electric power steering from operating when the speed sensor is faulty.
Lada 4×4 3D Gan-Gan › Logbook › Tidy 2110 in Niva 21213
Hi all. I had a problem, namely the speedometer cable broke off. It’s a small thing, but a month of driving without a speedometer made me mad. In general, it was a disappointment. And everything that doesn’t break is for tuning. I didn’t really want to replace the cable, and the tidy was pretty boring. I decided to replace the whole thing with a ten-room apartment with one window. I wanted it from the tag. But there were dozens. The difference is not critical. I'll survive. Briefly speaking. Purchased 1. Tidy VDO from 2110 2. 6-pulse speed sensor with metal. pin (made in Kaluga) 3. Connector for speed sensor 4. Colored wires (there are plenty of different colors) The easiest thing is to replace the devices. The size is similar. No problem. I didn't buy the dashboard cover. Still old. For connection I used this VAZ manual www.niva-faq.msk.ru/tehnika/elektro/panel/2110.htm Everything is clear in principle. The only thing I changed was the suction indicator on the dashboard, instead of the rear fog lights, as the author did, to block the defa. And I bought a connector for the speed sensor, and not the entire ignition harness.
OK. Let's do it. We take out the speedometer cable. It has a rubber seal. Don't throw it away! It will come in handy. To do this, you need to cut the cable and remove the rubber band.
We climb under the field and unscrew the cable from the transfer case. Instead, we screw the sensor on (don’t pull too hard! Otherwise it will burst. I broke the first one just like that. I had to buy another one.). And we put on the connector.
All. From below. That's all. Next we reconnect and solder the wires to the tidy following the manual above. After replacing the tidy, my speedometer and tachometer did not work right away. 1. Speedometer. I mixed up pins 1 and 3 with each other. 2. Tachometer. The problem could not be resolved for a long time. I changed my mind and tried everything. It came to the point where the contact from the ignition coil (more precisely, 2 of them) was ringing. I thought there was a problem with the tidy (the old tachometer showed it), but it turned out to be simpler. I recently installed dual circuit ignition. And there are 2 coils. Then I connected them through diodes (contact number 1 of the switches of each coil) to each other. The Niva tidy summed up the signals from the switches and everything worked correctly. The tachometer worked. But on the 10th tidy it didn’t work that way. It cannot sum signals. I only had to connect one coil to the dash. And she. Oh, Miracle! Earned it. But it shows half of what is needed. Those. 500 idle speeds instead of 1000. Sucks. But that's it for now.
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As usual, you want to get away with little blood and even less money, but something will always go wrong. Now everything is in order. Recently in the garage I came across a light control module I bought a year ago, www.drive2.ru/l/2646054/, and a pass-through speed sensor purchased for the correct functioning of this module. And I decided to install all this in order to implement DRL. I chose a free day and went into the garage and when I already climbed into the inspection hole, I realized that something was wrong here and it might not be possible to install a speed sensor.
The speedometer cable drive is located directly opposite the gearbox yoke
No, there’s no way, but the speedometer drive cover has three symmetrical ears, and what if you try to turn the cover on stiletto heels. No sooner said than done, and at the same time sending it
And I saw that the speedometer drive shaft of the VAZ 2121
Having turned the cover counterclockwise by one pin and tightened it with bolts, I decided to screw the D.S. on again.
And everything seemed to have gone more successfully if it weren’t for the nearby industrial shaft with an elastic coupling, which was literally a few millimeters from the speedometer cable
I decided to stop the experiments until better times, since I didn’t have a book on repairing NIVA 21213, 21214 with me. Having returned home, I began to study the book and the Internet, in an attempt to find the installation of D.S. on the 213 NIV, imagine my surprise when all my searches ended with the fact that the 214 NIV has its own speedometer drive cover with two separate cable outlets and D.S. I decided to look for this cover in our city and it turned out to be wrong simple. It was available in only one store, the price of the cover itself + two speedometer drive shafts was 460 rubles, I decided to postpone the purchase of this thing until salary, since there was no free money. And so it came and then went away, the salary. Immediately to this store for the treasured cover. I took the cover (300 rubles), one speedometer drive roller VAZ2121 (80 rubles), a set of transfer case gaskets (90 rubles), and when I saw the cover itself without the sealing rubber bands of the drive rollers, I asked if they were on sale, the seller he said that they didn’t exist and didn’t exist. I asked if they were anywhere and he pulled me out from under the counter some metal, or rather aluminum, thing, saying that it was from a VAZ 08. It turned out that the rubber bands were the same, I had to buy them for 80 rubles. Today was a free day, I decided to get out to the garage. So, having laid out the parts on the floor, I began to assemble them into one whole.
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Why does the speedometer not work?
There may be several reasons why the speedometer on the Niva suddenly stopped working.
Let's list the main ones:
- The malfunction may have occurred due to a broken speed sensor.
- Secondly, the car wiring is damaged or the contact in the electrical circuit is broken.
- The third reason, sometimes, is the speedometer needle getting stuck in a certain position.
- A problem with the electronics of the control unit can also cause a speedometer malfunction.
- Incorrect installation of speed control system parts after they have been replaced or removed.
The reason is the sensor
In principle, this is one of the few speedometer malfunctions that you can try to find and fix yourself. Not counting the jammed arrow and the torn cable. All other problems, including those with the electronic control unit and digital display, are best resolved at specialized service stations.
The first sign of a speed controller failure will be the speedometer stopping or its readings being incorrect. But the fact that the speedometer has stopped working due to the speed sensor can be determined by other signs:
- The engine constantly stalls when idling. This does not depend on whether the car is standing or rolling.
- The car cannot accelerate due to loss of power.
- Fuel consumption in all driving modes has increased sharply.
The reason that a faulty sensor affects engine performance so much is that it is included not only in the speedometer circuitry, but also in other systems.
You can check the functionality of this device using a voltmeter. It is more convenient to do this if you remove the sensor. But you can check it in its original place, without dismantling it. In any case, you need to gain access to his contacts. On a working sensor, the voltage readings will increase along with the increase in the rotation speed of its axis.
For your information. Rotation of the sensor core, which has not been removed from the vehicle, can be achieved by turning the suspended drive wheel.
Before checking and changing the sensor, which breaks quite rarely, you need to make sure the contacts are reliable. Often the problem lies in their oxidation or excessive contamination, since most Niva cars are operated in extreme conditions. Typically, the problem with a non-working speed sensor is solved after checking each contact, cleaning them and lubricating them with a protective compound.
On-board network malfunction
Often, this is precisely the reason why the speedometer has stopped working. After all, all information in modern devices is transmitted through electrical wires. A break or short circuit may occur in the vehicle wiring. A multimeter can detect this. If you have the skills to work with this device, you can try to find and fix the problem yourself.
Before you start searching for a break, you need to carefully inspect the wires to visually detect damage. After this, the tightness of the terminals is checked. If everything seems intact, the search begins using special equipment:
- The multimeter is set to ringing mode.
- The probes are attached to the ends of the area being tested.
- If the wiring is intact, a beep will sound. Its absence will mean that the break occurred in the location being tested.
To check for a network short circuit, the multimeter is also set to ringing mode. Before starting work, the wire is disconnected from the vehicle's electrical circuit. And, if in the case of a break, the signal indicated that the cables were in good condition, then the sound of the multimeter will now show where the short circuit occurred.
As a rule, eliminating problems with the wiring and replacing the speed sensor resolves the issue with the performance of the speedometer. But, if this does not happen, you need to contact specialists as soon as possible. After all, driving a car with inoperative speed control not only harms its technical condition, but also poses a real danger to the life and health of all road users.
Replacement.
To remove the DS, you need to place the car on a level surface. After this, it is best to disconnect the battery terminals to avoid errors in the BC.
Disconnect the wire terminals; to do this, press the plastic lock on the block. After this, use a wrench to unscrew the sensor from its seat. If you cannot unscrew it immediately, it is not recommended to use excessive force. You need to treat the threaded connection with WD-40, wait a few minutes and continue dismantling.
Installation of a new DS is carried out in the reverse order. When purchasing a new part, you need to pay attention to the external condition: the contacts must be treated with a sufficient amount of varnish, as this protects them from moisture. After completing the work, it is necessary to reset the on-board computer errors in order to remove the CHECK ENGINE error.
