Bearing grease - main selection criteria

Test results of clutch kits for VAZ-2110

The clutch is one of those units that even seasoned specialists, as they say, respect. Replacing the clutch kit on the same VAZ “ten” will most likely be beyond the capabilities of a beginner. The main question is, which one should you buy? Below are the test results of five “tenth” clutch kits.

Clutch for VAZ 2110. What did you measure?

Let's start with the most harmless parameter - mass. For all clutch kits, it turned out to be within the requirements of the technical documentation, and the lightest of them was “Krafttech”, and the heaviest was “Pilenga”. Let us recall that the mass of the clutch affects torsional vibrations and inertial loads in the transmission, but in our case we can say that there will be no visible changes when replacing one set with another.

With torque the situation is a little more complicated. Formally, only Krafttech and Pilenga met VAZ’s requirements: the required safety factor is 2.1. At the same time, the West has its own ideas about clutch operating conditions, and perhaps they do not need such reserves. In general, for VAZ 2112 engines it is better to use the mentioned brands, and for VAZ 2110 and 2111 - the rest.

Due to the imbalance of the pressure plate, “VAZINTERSERVIS” completely failed - triple the norm! Against this background, the performance of the same Valeo, which missed the mark by “only” 20 percent, looks quite acceptable. There are no complaints about the rest.

The imbalance of the driven disk turned out to be normal for everyone - except that “Pilenga” performed on the verge of a foul. It did not fit within the tolerance range for the clutch pressing force. Insufficient movement of the pressure plate at a given shutdown stroke was again noted at Pilengi, as well as at Krafttech. In terms of the distance from the ends of the petals to the friction surface, only “Pilenga” again “distinguished itself.” Let us recall that this value characterizes the assembly and is normalized for a specific car model. If the norm is exceeded, the resource of the driven disk is reduced.

Tips for choosing a clutch

If some clutch element fails after a long mileage, there is no need to save money: it is better to replace the release plate, the “basket”, and the driven disk at the same time. This is especially important when replacing one imported kit with another - the differences can be serious. The number of damper springs in the driven disk, in general, does not matter much - each manufacturer selects it himself. This makes it possible to implement the required angular rigidity in the product - as a rule, each company adheres to “its own belief.” About the petals in the “basket”. Well, let’s just say that the more there are, the more accurately the clutch works.

When replacing the clutch, in order to avoid warping of the “basket” casing, the mounting bolts are tightened gradually and one at a time. Before this, the mandrel used to center the driven disk is moved up and down and left and right - this facilitates accurate alignment of the driven disk.

Be careful not to confuse the orientation of the driven disk. If it doesn't have any identifying markings on it, look at it from the side. The side on which the damper springs protrude less from the level of the friction linings, as a rule, faces the flywheel. An error may cause the springs to catch on the flywheel bolts. By the way, do not allow the box to hang on the input shaft: this can cause deformation of the driven disk.

Clutch kits for VAZ 2110

Yes, it's time to choose. It was not possible to achieve the ideal, but “Krafttekh” and, perhaps, “Luk” looked better than the others, although insufficient torque, of course, did not suit it. “Valeo” clearly occupies the middle of our top five: balancing has failed. For the rest, we will think that the copies we received were simply out of shape.

1. The declared manufacturer is KRAFTTECH, the country is not specified. Marking: no bearing, driven disk Y 3200A B0206, pressure disk X2200C. Special features: no seal of approval. The driven disc has 4 damper springs. The diaphragm spring of the pressure plate (“basket”) has 18 petals. On the package of the kit there is a designation - 2110 W3200C B2240.
2. The declared manufacturer is LuK (Lamellen und Kupplungsbau), Germany. Markings: bearing SKF 500 063820 (purchased separately), driven disk 320 030810, pressure disk 2 D24 120 0252 10. Special features: MT14 approval mark. The driven disk is marked for correct orientation during installation. The “basket” has 18 petals. The driven disk has 6 damper springs. The “basket” side is marked.
3. The declared manufacturer is VALEO, the country is not specified. Marking: bearing VALEO SNR BB 126 18S50, no driven disk, no pressure disk. Special features: no seal of approval. The kit includes a mandrel for installation. The diaphragm spring of the pressure plate has 18 petals, the markings are erased. Marking on the packaging: 21102 – 21103 – 21108 – 2111 – 2112 826622.
4. The declared manufacturer is JSC “VAZINTERSERVICE”, Russia. Marking: bearing missing, driven disc missing, pressure disc missing. Special features: seal of approval – AYA70. The pressure plate diaphragm spring has 12 lobes. The mounting plate for the linings is one-piece. Driven disk - with 6 springs (4 large and 2 smaller). Marking only on the “basket” packaging – 2110-1601180.
5. The declared manufacturer is PILENGA, the country is not specified. Marking: bearing missing, driven disc PILENGA, pressure disc missing. Special features: no marks of approval. On the package - SK-R-4005 2110. The diaphragm spring of the pressure plate has 18 petals, but there is no marking. The driven disk is equipped with 8 damper springs - 4 large, 4 small.

Expert comments on the measurement technique

VAZ-2110 cars can be equipped with two types of clutches, which differ in the stiffness of the pressure spring depending on the installed engine, or more precisely, on its torque. The first design is intended for cars with engines 2110 and 2111 with a torque of 115.7 N.m, the second - for 2112 (torque - 128.3 N.m). The maximum torque transmitted by the clutch must exceed the specified value by 2.1 times - this is the safety factor. Hence the numbers - 243.0 and 269.4 N.m.

The clutch squeezing force is measured by moving the ends of the pressure spring petals by 7.9-8.1 mm. The movement of the pressure plate is measured at a release stroke of 7.9-8.1 mm from the position determined by the distance of 8.26-8.34 mm between the “basket” and the flywheel. The thickness of the driven disk along the linings is measured under a compression load of 3400 N.

Purpose of the clutch bearing

The clutch is designed to stop the supply of torque from the engine to the gearbox. While driving, when the driver presses the clutch pedal, the transmission between the engine and the gearbox is interrupted.

For this purpose, the system provides a release bearing. His tasks:

1. Provide force on the petals of the basket;
2. Smoothly remove the input shaft from contact with the flywheel;
3. Isolate the clutch drive from torque loads when pressed.

The basket is rigidly connected to the flywheel, so it rotates at constant speed.

The function of the clutch release clutch is to press the housing petals without causing harm to the parts. At the moment of contact, the outer race begins to rotate at the same speed as the engine, while smoothly transferring force from the person’s leg.

Technical parameters of the “seven” clutch: classification and parameters

VAZ models are equipped with a single-disc clutch with a central spring. Motorists interested in which clutch is best to install on a VAZ 2107 should take into account that its type depends on the power of the power unit. The units differ in the parameters of the pressure spring, casing and dimensions of the driven disk, and the entire set consists of three elements:

1. Pressure disk.
2. Slave disk.
3. Release bearing.

Pressure plate

On VAZ classics, two types of such mechanisms are used:

• 2103 – for cars with engines up to 1.5 liters.
• 2121 – for cars with engines up to 1.7 liters.

Externally, they are almost identical, they can easily be confused - the diameter of the disk in both cases is 200 mm. However, there are still distinctive signs:

• On product 2121 there is a mark in the form of a six-millimeter hole in one of the slots in the diaphragm spring blade.
• The width of friction linings 2103 is 29 mm, and 2121 – 35 mm.

Driven disk

To decide which clutch is best to install on a VAZ 2107, it doesn’t hurt to know that a “classic” disc is quite easy to distinguish from a “front-wheel drive” one by the bends that partially cover the damper springs. Driven disks are available in two sizes:

• 200x140 – for engines up to 1.5 liters; There are two brands: 2103 and 2107, the latter has asbestos-free linings.
• 200x130 - according to the documentation, the disk is brand 2121 and is designed for the Niva, but installation on the “seven” is also possible. In addition to its size, it features a reinforced damper with reinforced diaphragm springs.

Another noticeable factor is that the 2121 driven disc has a larger number of rivets on the linings than its 2103 counterpart.

Drive disc - clutch

The driving clutch discs are made of gray cast iron, and the driven discs are made of sheet steel.
The clutch drive disc is secured with a nut at the rear end of the fluid coupling turbine wheel hub. A stamped steel casing is attached to the disk, in which a pressure disk with nine pressure springs and three switch levers is installed. Between the drive disks there is a driven disk with spring linings, mounted on the splines of the gearbox input shaft.

In models released so far with the crankshaft parallel to the axis of the motorcycle, the engine crankshaft and gearbox shafts are also parallel; The clutch drive discs, as is common in cars, are connected to the crankshaft. The engine turns out to be low, but very wide (with horizontal opposing cylinders) and quite long. The generator and distributor are located at the front end of the crankshaft (see Fig. Access to the clutch, gearbox, shift mechanism and kick-starter mechanism is less convenient than with the arrangement shown in Fig.  

To connect the flywheel to the clutch, special pins are installed on it or seating belts and threaded holes for fastening bolts are provided, or teeth are cut with which the teeth of the clutch drive disk engage.  

With an independent PTO drive (Fig. 100, b), the power flow from the engine branches behind the flywheel - one part goes through the driven clutch disc to the transmission, and the other from the driven clutch disc goes to the PTO.  

The flywheel, cast from cast iron, serves to remove the pistons from their dead points, carry out auxiliary strokes, uniform rotation of the crankshaft, and also start the engine with a starter, for which a steel ring gear is pressed onto the flywheel rim. In addition, the flywheel is the driving disc of the clutch.  

In case of wear, surface cracks, scuffing or warping of the working surfaces, the drive clutch discs are machined and ground until signs of wear are removed.  

In order not to disturb the balancing during disassembly, the clutch housing is attached to the flywheel in accordance with the marks. For the ZIM engine, the crankshaft assembly with the fluid coupling (without the clutch drive disc) is subjected to dynamic balancing, with a permissible imbalance of 50 gcm. Before balancing, 6-65 liters of turbine oil are poured into the fluid coupling.  

The operation of the clutch is as follows. At the beginning of the shock cycle, the dynamo and brake generators are turned off. The clutch drive disc is closed to the flywheel, and the driven disc is opened. The operator turns on the drive dynamo and spins the clutch flywheel.  

The flywheel is cast from cast iron. It serves to remove the pistons from their dead points, carry out auxiliary strokes, uniform rotation of the crankshaft, and also start the engine with a starter, for which a steel ring gear is pressed onto the flywheel rim. In addition, the flywheel serves as the clutch drive disc.  

Gray cast iron (GC) is liquid-melting, gives little shrinkage when solidifying, and can be easily processed by cutting. When heated, it retains hardness up to the melting point. It is used for casting cylinder blocks, piston rings, flywheels, clutch drive discs, gearbox housings, etc. Gray cast iron is marked with the letters SCH with a numerical designation indicating the strength of the cast iron.  

The ZIM car has a hydraulic coupling installed between the clutch and the engine. The steel clutch body is stamped and welded in two halves and is bolted to the crankshaft flange in place of the flywheel. The coupling body contains impellers, which are hollow stamped rings with welded radial blades located in the bells. The pump wheel is attached to the housing and has 48 blades. The turbine wheel, which has 44 blades, is attached to the hub and connected to the clutch drive plate. The front end of the hub is mounted in a ball bearing fixed in the flange of the clutch housing, and the rear end rests on a roller bearing on the shank of the gearbox input shaft. The front end of this shaft is mounted in the coupling hub on two needle bearings.  

Criteria: which clutch is better to install on a VAZ 2107 car of a classic design?

Based on the recommendations of experts and reviews from car enthusiasts, it is possible to draw up basic principles that must be taken into account when choosing parts for the gear shift control unit. In general terms, the picture resembles wheel alignment adjustment , when any useful recommendation greatly facilitates the process. In addition to the manufacturer's brand, when purchasing a driven disk, you should pay attention to the following factors:

• The plane of the friction linings must be uniform; during visual inspection, scuffs, cracks and chips are unacceptable.
• The presence of oil stains on the disc is strictly prohibited.
• Visually assess the quality of the rivet; the edge of each rivet must be the same; uneven riveting along the edges is unacceptable.
• The splines must be undamaged.
• Check that there is no play on the springs, dampers and linings. The presence of play indicates low-quality assembly of the unit.

A car enthusiast who is interested in which clutch is best to install on a classic VAZ 2107 should pay attention to the markings of the damper plate. Here is a logo made with a laser or hologram, which is an effective measure in the fight against counterfeit products.

Separately, it is worth considering the criteria for choosing a pressure plate for the classic VAZ “Seven”:

• To evaluate the quality of the basket casing, conscientious companies make them using the stamping method. The presence of deep scratches and cuts is a sign of a low-quality part.
• Inspect the quality of the riveting.
• Inspect the level of manufacturing of the cast disk and the machining of its mirror. The presence of microcracks, cavities and unevenness is unacceptable, and, conversely, an ideal surface indicates high-quality material and high-tech processing of the part.

Repair work

If you decide to do everything yourself, follow the following sequence of actions.

1. Drive onto an overpass or pit. This will make it more convenient for you to work.
2. Raise the front of the car using a reliable jack and securely fix the nine.
3. Remove the wheels.
4. Disconnect the clutch housing ground and clutch cable. Next you will have to remove the transmission.
5. To do this, remove the starter by disconnecting the wires, terminals and unscrewing the three mounting nuts.
6. Disconnect the speedometer cable and reverse cable.
7. Remove the brace fastenings to the suspension arms and move them to the sides.
8. Disconnect the ball joints from the swing arms. To do this, you need to remove the cotter pin, unscrew the nut, and knock out the support pin. Then the two nuts are unscrewed and the hinge is disconnected.
9. Using a pry bar, press out the tip of the inner CV joint. Be sure to plug the hole formed in the gearbox using improvised means, otherwise oil will begin to pour out of the gearbox.
10. Remove the lower clutch housing protection. There are only 3 bolts holding it in place.
11. Make supports from bars, bricks for the box and engine.
12. Remove the rear supports.
13. Unscrew the remaining fasteners and pull the gearbox horizontally. Be careful not to deform the pressure spring lobes with the input shaft.

Removal and inspection

1. When unscrewing the mounting bolts, it is better to secure the driven disk with something. A regular large screwdriver will do.
2. Be careful not to give out the driven disc and remove the clutch assembly.
3. Examine the current condition of the parts. If mechanical damage is noticed on them, we recommend replacing them immediately.

The next step is to check the condition of the parts.

Dismantling work
It is quite rare that individual components of the coupling are changed independently of the others. Mostly repairs involve replacing the assembly, which includes the pressure plate, release bearing and clutch driven disc.

Assembly of the unit is performed in reverse order. Just make sure that you choose really high-quality parts for replacement. For example, a normal quality clutch disc will cost about 1,000 rubles today. We do not recommend taking cheaper options.

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Choose the best

The last point in the question of which clutch is best to install on a VAZ 2107 car will be a short review of the most famous clutch kits for classic cars. Differences in brand products lie in reliability and behavior during operation.

Valeo

The well-known company from France is also known for its high-quality brake pads. Judging by the reviews of car owners, the clutch is characterized by soft operation with a clear engagement moment.

Many note the reliability of the new Valeo kits, which often operate without breakdowns for more than 150,000 km. The disadvantage is the high cost.

World famous German manufacturer of friction clutches. The products have always been distinguished by advanced design solutions. For example, the use of a torsional vibration damper on the pressure and driven discs significantly dampens vibrations, which contributes to comfort. LuK couplings are the best choice in terms of price-quality ratio, however, there are many fakes on sale, so you need to be careful when purchasing.

Kraft

The German brand has been known for 20 years, but recently products under this brand are increasingly being produced in Turkey, which, naturally, makes them cheaper. However, clutches have a lot of positive reviews, including:

• soft squeeze;
• no overheating during heavy duty operation;
• The flywheel has virtually no wear.

Sachs

The German manufacturer has extensive experience in the production of transmission parts. All coupling models are equipped with asbestos-free linings, and they provide:

• Optimal torque transmission.
• Resistant to increased loads.
• No maintenance required.

A domestic enterprise that supplies original products for Lada cars. The design of the coupling was developed by engineers from Tolyatti, but the components used in production are mainly imported. Most car owners, when deciding which clutch is best to install on the classic VAZ 2107, choose this manufacturer. The reason for this choice is the low price and acceptable quality.

Kraft tech

Turkish products licensed from the German company Kraft. The set is characterized by soft operation and is adapted to Russian working conditions. Some of the negative reviews relate to the fragility of the release bearing.

Trial

Another domestic manufacturer that guarantees up to two million load cycles for its disks without loss of performance properties. The average mileage of the kit parts is 80,000 km. Some motorists complain about cracks appearing on the driven disk in the area of ​​the springs, causing them to fly out. However, it is worth noting that such problems arose after two or three years of operation.

Replacement

Not all car owners decide to replace the release bearing (TR) themselves. But if you are ready for this kind of work, then go for it.

VI components

The main difficulty in replacing the gearbox is the need to dismantle the gearbox. Without this event, it will not be possible to replace the component.

Therefore, think twice before making a final decision. There is always the opportunity to contact a car service.

To work you will need the following set of tools and materials:

• Set of wrenches;
• Jack;
• Several durable bricks;
• New release bearing;
• Screwdriver Set;
• Container for draining transmission fluid;
• Clutch holder;
• Garage with a pit or lifting mechanism.

It is better to divide the entire replacement procedure into two main stages.

1. Removing the gearbox.
2. Bearing replacement.

Many people make the mistake of relaxing too much when they finally change the bearing. In practice, reassembly often causes more problems than dismantling work. Please take this into account.

Dismantling the gearbox

1. Place the car over a hole or overpass.
2. Lift the hood, remove the negative terminal from the battery and throw it aside.
3. Disconnect the ground wire from the clutch housing.
4. Use a screwdriver to remove the engine splash guard. To do this, you need to unscrew several screws that hold the mudguard to the elements of the side wings. For the VAZ 2109, a key size of 8 is used. Having removed all the screws there, remove the parts of the engine mudguard and put them away for now.
5. Disconnect the transmission drive rod. To do this, use a 13mm wrench to loosen the clamp bolts. Next, use a screwdriver to separate the ends of the clamp and disconnect the element from the gearbox.
6. Be sure to disable the reverse optics sensor.
7. Place blocks or bricks under the rear wheels of the car to prevent the car from moving.
8. Remove the front wheels by first loosening the bolts and lifting the front part of the body. After removing the wheels, place pre-prepared bricks under the body.
9. Using a 17 wrench, unscrew the nuts securing the ball joint to the steering knuckle on both sides.
10. The extension is moved to the side, and the fastening screws of the left extension to the vehicle's suspension arm are unscrewed.
11. Using a 10 mm wrench, remove the fasteners of the lower clutch housing cover.
12. Remove the transmission mounts. This is done as follows. Place supports or bricks under the engine and a jack under the box. Unscrew the mounting screws of the support to the body with a 17mm wrench. After removing the bolt, remove the support bracket by unscrewing several corresponding nuts.
13. We proceed directly to dismantling the gearbox. Using a 19 wrench, unscrew the fasteners of the clutch housing to the cylinder block. Use a jack to lower the gearbox slightly and move it away from the engine. Lower until the input shaft begins to come out of the box.
14. Enlist the support of a partner, since it is quite difficult to remove the gearbox alone.
15. Make sure that the gearbox input shaft does not rest on the clutch spring petals. If you allow this situation to happen, you will simply damage them.
16. Carefully place the gearbox on the supports, being careful not to hit it. Otherwise, repairs will cost much more than buying a new bearing.

Removing the gearbox

Removing a gearbox is a complex procedure that requires a lot of time, patience and skills. Therefore, without these, it is better not to undertake work with your own hands.

Replacing VP

To change the release bearing, follow the instructions.

1. After dismantling the gearbox, you can examine the condition of the release bearing. Spin it by hand. If at the same time there are extraneous noises and crunching sounds, then it is obvious that the VP has lost its former performance and needs to be replaced.
2. Using a screwdriver, remove the ends of the spring clip and remove the clutch release.
3. Move the spring petals of the pressure ring and remove the release bearing from the clutch. To do this you will need to remove the holder.
4. At this point, bearing dismantling can be considered complete, so install a new bearing instead of the old element.
5. Before installation, make sure that the element is in good condition, rotates freely along its axis, there are no jams, there are no crunches or extraneous noises.
6. Swap the old and new bearings. Insert the element into the coupling so that its protruding part is directed towards the coupling.
7. Secure the bearing with the clutch holder. You need to hold the bearing in place.
8. Take some regular motor oil and apply it to the shaft.
9. Install the squeezer onto the shaft and secure the part with a spring.
10. During the reassembly process, strictly adhere to all recommendations and maintain surgical precision.

Recommendations

Comments 45

Take Native metal

Where else can I get the third one?

Does everyone on your collective farm talk like that? You must have a certificate. Or are you getting it? Are you writing from the hospital? Although it’s high time I gave it to you, judging by the comments.

I will decide for myself and did not ask for your opinion in my comments. I hope you know what to do with your opinion in such cases.

and your knowledge is already visible)))

I won’t lie, but from some clutch kit they immediately throw out the bearing. It’s just that when I was looking for a kit for myself, I often came across such reviews. I took the VIS kit for myself, it was the same (as on the left in the photo), I was immediately confused by the internal plastic sleeve. but they said everything was fine.

Yes, they throw it away from a lot of places, from luk too. I just played with the Visa one, I didn’t like it

I have it since 08, it has a rounded part that comes into contact with the petals. www.rain-auto.ru/images/goods/19690.jpg it seems like the production is less, the contact area is larger. but I didn’t find a domestic one. And I didn’t take all sorts of crafts and trials.

I don’t have any options anymore, I need to choose something from these two

I ordered it from Nizhny Novgorod through a transport company)) yes, just like that, I went to the local store, and there are all sorts of things there. According to the principle, they brought it and buy it. I wasn’t happy with this, especially if I had to change the clutch, it’s not like changing the wheel, you can’t climb there much) if you’re interested, here’s the blog entry www.drive2.ru/l/9243732/

Moreover, the onion bearing should cost about 2.5 rubles (judging by the price on the existential), which is how much I took from them and in the autodoc, they always only sell the original. and in regular stores they’ll sell you everything you want www.drive2.ru/b/2514649/

Well then, when I change it, I’ll ask the masters, otherwise the camp has been divided))

They’ll tell you what’s worse (so that you can come again)) I personally don’t like this bow in the photo. It’s kind of clumsy, with burrs. Maybe it’s just a photo from the Internet, and there’s another one in the store? So this company is not bad (I took the tension roller for myself). Until I get around to replacing the belt (Goetz), roller (ina/bow) and pump (tza).

Well, I’m taking my buddy to the service center, I bet he won’t say crap. And then along the way they are both normal, so you just have to choose, I don’t have any others in the store, Phenox and AvtoVAZ. I already have these

yes how to say. I also asked a friend at the service center to measure the compression. And I got distracted by going to the store to buy a set of timing sprockets. I come, and they have already measured it! Idk, I didn’t like it that much, I wanted to see the process in person. In two it says the norm, and in two it’s about 10. It’s no longer a cake, it’s necessary to invest. I ask how much? 23tr for everything! I don't know if it was invented or not. It’s not burning for me, but the oil is already leaking. I think the caps. But it’s a pain to change them to 16kl. And you need to take off the head. and I’m like, if I remove the head, then I’ll want to do everything else at the same time.

They’ll tell you what’s worse (so that you can come again)) I personally don’t like this bow in the photo. It’s kind of clumsy, with burrs. Maybe it’s just a photo from the Internet, and there’s another one in the store? So this company is not bad (I took the tension roller for myself). Until I get around to replacing the belt (Goetz), roller (ina/bow) and pump (tza).

And by the way, watch your belt, Gates is not the same anymore

hatch and all this nonsense, that it will fall apart)) it is made of very durable “plastic”

What details need to be checked?

All listed spare parts must be replaced at the first sign of wear. Due to the low price, this is not difficult to do immediately when installing a new clutch.

First of all, you need to check the clutch release fork. If the seat is damaged, it is better to install a new part. Spare part price: 200-300 rubles.

The clutch fork support is another risk area. At the first sign of wear or play of the ball, the part should be replaced. Spare part price: approximately 200 rubles.

The guide sleeve of the release bearing is also often deformed by 70-80 thousand kilometers. If you or the technician notice even minor damage, it is better to install a new guide. Spare part price: 500-600 rubles.

You can buy all of the above at StoVesta with free delivery within the city.

It's whistling as if it were being squeezed out, but somehow it doesn't look like it.

Post by Andresh » Tue May 15, 2021 10:58 am

It's whistling as if it were being squeezed out, but somehow it doesn't look like it.

Post by VladislaV » Tue May 15, 2021 21:48

Andresh, that is, two squeezing waxwings? You changed the clutch, installed Espru, it whistles, you installed some kind of noname with a narrow edge and again the whistle?

It creaked and went silent at the slightest pressure on the pedal, I decided for myself that the tight release lever did not spin, creaked along the basket, and when pressed it began to spin and became silent. I thought he would get closer and unwind, but he did not shut up, and the squeeze became worse and worse.

As a result, I removed it, and the release plane was milled with a “glass”.

It's whistling as if it were being squeezed out, but somehow it doesn't look like it.

Post by Andresh » Wed May 16, 2021 04:31

It's whistling as if it were being squeezed out, but somehow it doesn't look like it.

Post by aleksfom012 » Wed May 16, 2018 06:57

It's whistling as if it were being squeezed out, but somehow it doesn't look like it.

Post by Andresh » Wed May 16, 2021 09:47

It's whistling as if it were being squeezed out, but somehow it doesn't look like it.

Post by VladislaV » Wed May 16, 2021 12:03

Andresh, as a last resort measure, remove the clutch slave cylinder and pull the clutch fork towards you with some wire with a hook.

There's nothing else to sparkle there. When the pedal is released, only the gearbox and release lever rotate. When pressed, the bearing in the flywheel is connected.

It's whistling as if it were being squeezed out, but somehow it doesn't look like it.

Post by Andresh » Wed May 16, 2021 12:18 pm

It's whistling as if it were being squeezed out, but somehow it doesn't look like it.

Post by VladislaV » Wed May 16, 2021 12:21

If you are “present”, check that there are two guide bosses in the bell, they say they fix the position of the gearbox. Maybe one is missing, the gearbox is skewed and the bearing is slipping and cracking.

TOP 7 best clutches for VAZ (Lada)

The modern market is filled with automotive products from different companies and manufacturers. In such a situation, it is difficult to determine which clutch is best to install on a VAZ. Among the abundance of offers, there are a large number of fakes or not very successful solutions. The following problems can result from a selection error:

• unpredictable pedal behavior;
• a more severe reaction to driver manipulations;
• complexity of installation;
• knocking out of gear during acceleration;
• rapid disc wear;
• increased vibration.

Only the most common problems that arise when making the wrong choice or buying a fake are described here.

Symptoms of malfunction

The clutch release bearing itself will tell you that its life is already at its limit or it has completely failed. Therefore, your task is to monitor the behavior of the car and promptly respond to emerging problems.

Old and new gearbox
If the release bearing is not replaced in a timely manner, the gearbox will soon fail, the clutch will not work, and this will lead to dire consequences.

Consequences of wear

If you have encountered such a phenomenon as wear of the clutch release bearing, then you probably often drive your own VAZ 2109. It is time and the many kilometers traveled that lead to such breakdowns.

If the bearing is not replaced in time, this will result in the following consequences:

• Any subsequent trip may be the last for the car;
• The clutch disc will overheat, which will lead to destruction of the lining;
• In addition to replacing the bearing, you will have to replace the entire clutch disc;
• It is not uncommon for the clutch to fail. If you hear an incomprehensible noise coming from the clutch system, then there is a problem with it.

How to choose the right one

Competent selection in 2021 begins with studying manufacturers' offers. Knowing several factors will help determine which clutch is best installed on a VAZ.

1. Precise car modification. The configuration of the clutch kit and its physical parameters depend on the type of car.
2. Estimated price range. Depending on the desired cost, the user can navigate by company. The final price tag is considered an important factor - you shouldn’t count on the cheapest model.
3. Method of operating the machine. With moderate driving under normal conditions, even simple modifications to the disc and drives will last quite a long time. If the car is used in racing mode or under critical overloads with frequent switching (this also includes training cars), you should buy high-quality products with a large margin of safety.

By taking into account all the parameters, the motorist can correctly select the required clutch model and install it on his car.

How to replace the clutch - next steps

Remove the speedometer limit switch. All we have to do is turn off the cardan, which is located under the boot. Unscrew the stopper. They disconnected everything from above and unscrewed it, removing the clutch pedal cable.

Now you need to unscrew the rear airbag. The engine will hang, the box will tilt down a little. We unscrew the bolt securing the pillow to the side member and pull it to the side. Due to the fact that the engine is suspended, the box can flop around. We check that all the bolts have been unscrewed. Let's take a small montage. If you are removing the box for the first time, then place a board under it. Otherwise, without knowing the actual weight of the gearbox, you may drop it.

You will have to lower the engine a little, since the bracket does not allow the box to come out. With a slight movement of your hand, remove the box. Her weight is twenty kilograms. The problem was with the clutch, we see a half-dead release bearing, worn out petals that were sticking. Water got into the basket and there was rust.

Next, let's see how worn the clutch basket is. Here we see a leak of antifreeze from under the pipe. The wear on the clutch disc is visible. The car has traveled many kilometers, not 150 thousand, but more. The bolts all unscrew like clockwork.

Let's put another basket. Try to choose a clutch disc with a large number of springs and a clutch with a large number of petals, then everything will work smoothly. There is very little left to do to replace the clutch. Assembly is carried out in reverse order.

VAZ clutch rating

Existing offers on the market can be divided into several groups. The best manufacturers and modifications of VAZ clutches are presented below.

7th place: STARCO

The ranking of the best market offers opens with a company that is a product that combines the developments of engineers from the USA and Turkey. In principle, the company is represented on the Russian market as a Turkish brand, but technological developments have been collected from all over the world. Such a symbiosis ensures sufficient reliability, high quality indicators and reasonable cost, which attracts a large number of domestic motorists.

Advice from experts

When choosing the right bearing, mistakes are often made. In order to avoid mistakes when choosing a suitable model, you must consider the following recommendations.

Buy spare parts only in specialized places

If the driver is not well versed in the types of spare parts, they should only be purchased at specialized sales points. In case of difficulty, specialists will always be able to advise and help you choose the right part, depending on the make of the car.

Do not buy goods without labels

Such parts may be fake, and even if the bearing fits externally in size, it cannot always be installed on the car. Also, by studying the markings, you can find out the country of manufacture and car models for which this part is suitable.

How to distinguish an original from a fake

When choosing suitable products, drivers often purchase fakes, which have a high cost but a short service life. Beginners especially often encounter such problems. In order to avoid becoming a victim of counterfeiting, the following features must be taken into account:

• all original parts are supplied in boxes with brand marks; the absence of a box may indicate a fake;
• all factory parts are marked; the absence of marking or its unclear appearance may indicate a fake;
• no warranty., all original models have a quality guarantee, the warranty period is determined by each manufacturer individually.

It is also necessary to carefully inspect the details. Counterfeits are usually made from low-quality steel. Such a defect can be seen with the naked eye if you look closely.

How to understand that there is a breakdown

In order to promptly replace products in a timely manner, you must listen to the following signs:

• There is noise while driving. Most often, this symptom indicates the need to replace a part on the front or rear wheel.
• When accelerating, the noise turns into a hum;
• When cornering, the noise disappears, but an unpleasant clicking noise may appear. This indicates a faulty wheel bearing.
• In a calm state, wheel play appears.

However, it is possible to correctly identify which consumable needs to be changed only after a complete diagnosis by a specialist. Only an experienced driver can independently identify the breakdown.