Do-it-yourself repair of non-removable front struts of a VAZ 2110

Symptoms of breakdowns

Since the strut is a suspension element, if it malfunctions, you will immediately notice problems with its operation. So, the main symptom is an increased knocking sound in the front of the car. It can occur at different speeds. If you hear a crunch (and not a dull thud), it means that the front strut bearing on the VAZ-2110 has become unusable. The support element may wear out faster than the shock absorber itself. The reason for this is the constant shock of the suspension when driving on uneven roads. The support bearing does not have any damper, and all loads that the rack could not absorb are fully transferred to it. Note that the crunching noise initially occurs only when turning the steering wheel.

Lada 2111 “1.6 atmospheric” › Logbook › Restoring the strut support on the VAZ!

We continue to write practical and useful things about car repairs that save your wallets, nerves, time, and most importantly trains your hands so that they don’t grow into another place where they need to be) This repair will help even owners of foreign cars, because they are primarily Due to the high cost of their spare parts, they constantly buy VAZ cars to replace their expensive ones.
If you have a collapsible support, and it can also be made collapsible using a grinder, welding and some kind of mother, then you have come to the right place. This is not my idea, it’s our Russian inquisitive mind that works wonders on how to bypass the system... And so... Everyone knows that now rubber is complete bullshit, they save at all stages, types and types of production, because of this the rubber quickly cracks, shrinks, and comes into disrepair. worthlessness in one word.
The strut supports are also not devoid of this, which is why we get this not-so-pleasant knocking sound with every bump. But not always, or rather in 80% of cases, it is not the support bearing that is to blame, but the damper rubber itself. Which shrinks, bounces, loses its shape and the entire structure inside the support begins to knock. The first solution is described here:

But I consider this solution with a metal washer not very productive, since not many people have a turner, you can, of course, cut it out with a grinder, but the design itself from such a washer is not very functional a priori, it is better to put rubber rings, which will increase the elasticity of the damper several times , and even during wear and tear the metal ring won’t rattle, and perhaps it will last even longer than the new support, in this way we greatly compress the damper, which, as a rule, has nowhere to shrink, it has already done this before)

Don't ignore the problem

Do not hesitate to replace the front struts on the VAZ-2110. If the shock absorber fails, the load on other elements increases:

• Ball joints.
• Silent blocks of levers.
• Support and wheel bearings.

The braking distance also increases and controllability deteriorates. At speeds above 60 kilometers per hour, the car begins to “scour” along the road. And, of course, all this is accompanied by a roar in the cabin, which you and your passengers are unlikely to like.

Preliminary diagnosis

Rear suspension device for VAZ-2110.

Before you start replacing the rear shock absorbers, you need to make sure that the problem is related to them. To do this, it is not necessary to go to a service station; it is enough to conduct a visual inspection. It is possible that the strut itself is not damaged, and only the spring needs to be replaced .

When inspecting, you need to pay attention to the following elements:

1. If the rubber bushings that are located on the levers are very worn, then they need to be changed first. It is possible that the racks themselves have not yet exhausted their service life.
2. It happens that a spring breaks or sag . In this case, it can also be replaced separately.
3. The appearance of characteristic knocking noises in the rear suspension may be due to loosening of the strut mounts at the top or bottom.
4. You need to carefully inspect the silent block on the lower eye .
5. Also, the bumpers that are installed on the rods can be broken.

In addition to all these points, all connections should be carefully tightened. Often knocks in the rear suspension are associated with this.

Which front struts are best?

There are different types of racks: gas, oil and gas-oil. They all differ in design and price. Oil elements are installed. They are the most comfortable and provide a very smooth ride. However, such a car does not have the best handling. For those who want greater maneuverability and stability on the road, Kayaba sports struts are suitable. They are gas-filled and have high rigidity. What is the price for these VAZ-2110 front struts? The set can be purchased for 5-5.5 thousand rubles. This manufacturer also makes oil struts. Their cost is about 4 thousand rubles.

Another manufacturer of sports stands is Kony. They have quite positive reviews. But these are the most expensive front struts on the VAZ-2110. The price for the set is 7-9 thousand rubles. As for other manufacturers, motorists speak well of the following:

We will talk about these racks separately. This product is made in Samara. It is highly popular among motorists.

Lada 2110 Monchicar › Logbook › Making a quiet and soft front suspension for the VAZ 2110.

1. Racks

Reason for replacing the front struts I had SAAZ struts. They died safely within 2 years. First there was a knocking noise, then the right pillar jammed. Selection of racks: 1. SAAZ 21100-2905402-03 Right rack 21100-2905403-03 Left rack 2. KYB 665503 cartridge – 2 pcs + “Stock-auto” rack body SA10-2905580-01 right, SA10-2905581-01 left + rack housing nut 2108-2905610 – 2 pcs.

SAAZ struts are moderately soft. The reliability of these racks leaves much to be desired. KYB cartridges are very soft and reliable, the main thing is to assemble everything correctly.

To assemble the stand we will need: 1. KYB 665503 cartridge – 2 pcs. 2. “Stock-auto” stand housing SA10-2905580-01 right, SA10-2905581-01 left. 3. Rack housing nut 2108-2905610 – 2 pcs. 4. Lanta fum – 1 piece 5. Transmission oil – 0.5 l 6. Blue thread locker PERMATEX medium fixation 10 ml.

Assembly of a stand based on a KYB 665503 cartridge

1. Pour ¼ (approximately 200 grams) of the total volume into the empty rack housing. This is done for additional cooling of the cartridge. 2. Wrap the top of the cartridge evenly with fum tape, so that you get a uniform ring.

The ring should be of such a diameter that it fits tightly (with slight resistance) into the rack body. This is done to accurately position the stand in the center of the cartridge.

3. Install the cartridge in the rack housing.

4. Apply blue locking compound to the threads of nut 2108-2905610.

5. Place the rack body in a vice and secure it. 6. Tighten the nut in a vice with a special wrench. (photo). The stands are ready!

Result:

If everything is done correctly, the stand will serve you faithfully for a long time. I have already completed 3 years without the slightest complaints. The suspension became quiet and very soft. When moving over various irregularities, the racks “eat up” everything. The knocks are gone. Some advantages.

If you install a cartridge without fum tape and oil, a metallic click will soon appear when you turn the steering wheel. This cartridge began to dangle inside the rack.

At the moment, there are many different manufacturers of racks for our cars. I heard positive reviews about the manufacturers Demfi and SACHS. So far I'm completely satisfied with KYB.

2. Upper pillar support

Reason for replacing the support On small bumps and uneven surfaces, a dull squelching sound came from the supports. When I pressed the car, a knock clearly came from the supports. Selection of supports: The following rack supports were selected for the experiment: 1. AvtoVAZ Article: 2110-2902820 2. MONROE MK192 3. Assomi A110.2902.820-31

3. Rubber salen blocks.

Front hinge cushion 2108-¬2904050 – 2 pcs. Lower arm joint 2108-2904040 — 2 pcs. Rear extension joint 2108-2904046 – 4 pcs. Rod cushion 2110-2906040 — 2 pcs. Stabilizer strut 2110-2906050 – 2 pcs. Reason for replacing the salenblocks: Visual deformation + deterioration of rubber parts. Selection of salen blocks Rubber salen blocks were all installed from the manufacturer BRT. There is also an alternative manufacturer that is not inferior in its characteristics, this is Rosteco. I really like Rosteco products, but not polyurethane. I am against polyurethane parts, because at low temperatures they begin to creak. Tested by personal experience.

4. Spring

Reason for replacing springs I changed the springs due to deformation of the coils. The paint on the old springs was all peeling off and they were rusty. Choice. I supplied the springs to AvtoVAZ Article 2112-2902712. The color of the springs is black with red markings. I wanted to install springs with blue markings, they seem to be softer, but I couldn’t find them. Overall I was pleased with the springs. When installing the springs on the strut, I used SS20 sound insulators. Result: The front of the car rose a couple of centimeters. The noise on the bumps has disappeared.

5. Compression stroke buffer (Chipper)

Reason for replacing the bumper The old bumper became unusable and simply fell apart.
Choice. I installed the bumpers from the manufacturer PromTehPlast, white. Article: 2110-2902816. There are also yellow bumpers made in Syzran. I liked them less in appearance. For the white bumpers, I can say that it’s been 3 years since they’ve been on my car, they’re like new. I periodically check the chassis, everything is fine with them. 6. Protective casing (Boots of the struts)
Reason for replacing the boots of the struts There were numerous cracks on the boot of the struts, which indicated that they had already seen a lot.
Choice. Anthers should only be installed on BRT and the original. Unfortunately, we came across a cooperative. The lifespan of cooperative ones is 2-3 months, after which they fall apart before our eyes. Article: 2110-2905681. 7. Ball joint
Reason for replacing the ball joint.
The chassis had knocking noises on bumps. Having rested the pry bar between the ball joint pin and the lever, press the pry bar and see the play. Play in the ball joint is unacceptable. Selection For the experiment, the following ball joints were taken: 1. TRW Article No.: JBJ156 2. AvtoVAZ Article No.: 2110-¬2904192 3. Track Champion Article No.: 2108-2904185ТЧ Result: I did not notice any difference between the ball joints. Everything is of good quality. I drove the first two for about 3 months. The last ones were TRACK. They have been standing for 3 years already. There are no problems observed. The rest are in stock. We liked the track because of its transparent boot, which in turn makes it possible to control the presence of lubricant before installation and the ingress of water into the support during operation.

Preparing the tools

To successfully replace the front struts on a VAZ-2110 with your own hands, we will need:

• Set of socket heads (from 13 to 19 inclusive).
• A set of spanners (for 17, 19 and 22).
• Mount.
• Hammer.
• Open-end wrench 9.
• Ballonnik.
• Liquid Key lubricant.
• Wire brush (if necessary).
• Spring ties (at least two).
• Factory jack.

You don't need a lift or pit to replace the front shock absorber. You just need to lift part of the body. To successfully repair the front pillar of the VAZ-2110, it is enough to place it on a flat, hard surface.

Knocks

You should approach this issue wisely, study the replacement procedure in a video, consult with specialists, and be sure to review the operating manual for your car.

Knocks occur for various reasons from the rear, so this should be looked into in more detail.

1. If knocking noises are observed when driving on uneven ground, the shock absorbers have apparently failed. The only solution is to replace with new ones.
2. If you see that the rubber bushings of the levers are worn out, change the suspension.
3. When the spring settles, it must be replaced.
4. A knocking sound is likely a sign of a loose shock absorber or worn rubber eye bushings.
5. When the rear suspension is overloaded or damaged, knocking noise also occurs.
6. If the bushings of the suspension arms are destroyed, the rear axle moves and a knock appears.
7. When knocking is observed from the suspension arms, it is recommended to replace them with new ones.
8. Knocks can also be determined by how busy the rear part is. How to remove the engine on a VAZ 2110 (video) today we will talk about the rear struts. Empty the trunk and do not seat anyone in the second row. This makes it easier to figure out what the reason is - shock absorbers or springs.

Let's get started

First, we fix the car on the hand brake or put stops under the rear wheels. Next, open the hood and unscrew the nut securing the support to the shock absorber strut. Please note that the stem itself can rotate. To fix it, you need a key size 9. Next, you need to remove the wheel bolts and hang the front part of the car on a jack (on the right or left side, depending on which rack will be changed first). We take the wheel out and apply Liquid Key lubricant to the nuts securing the strut to the steering knuckle.

Removing the front pillar of VAZ 2110, 2111 and 2112

Required . choose new shock absorbers. remove the wheels, prepare pliers, wrench “13”, “19”, mounting blade, hammer, special wrench for loosening the shock absorber rod nut, marker. It is more convenient to carry out the work on an inspection ditch or a lift, but you can get by on a flat platform.

Remove the rubber plug from the upper support. We hold the rod with a special key and loosen the connection.

Disconnect the tie rod end from the steering knuckle:

Source

Disassembling the rack

So, after the work has been completed, the part can be safely removed outside. Now we need to tighten the springs on both sides.

How to further replace the shock absorber strut on a VAZ-2110 with your own hands? At the next stage, we dismantle the boot and bumper. They can be “transferred” to a new shock-absorbing element, if none were included in the kit (by the way, sometimes struts are sold assembled with springs and other “attachments”). Then you can begin assembling and installing the new element. First, the springs are mounted, then the support bearing with a cup and rubber seal.

Maintenance and replacement of racks

The rear pillar of the VAZ 2110, which will be repaired, can be dismantled quite simply. This process requires strict execution of a certain sequence of actions and the availability of the necessary tools, including a special key. Replacing the rear struts of a VAZ 2110 begins with unloading the contents of the trunk.

To do this, you need to get rid of the seat belts and remove the fixation brackets. Using a special wrench, you need to unscrew the rack rod fastening. Now you can lift the car using a lift and remove the lower fasteners without any problems.

The procedure is completed by removing the stand from the mounting socket. You can carefully inspect the part and all its elements for damage and wear. Everything that needs to be changed must be changed. Not only the comfort of traveling by car, but also safety largely depends on this. After replacing all elements, you can begin assembly.

Installation of the rear strut of the VAZ 2110 begins with the shock absorber rod, which must be installed in the top position. Next, you need to tighten the beam; available levers can help with this. You need to insert the bottom fastener into the beam, after which you can install the fastener. Then everything is simple: install a pair of wheels and you can lower the car.

If there are no unforeseen situations, then the whole process will take a couple of hours of measured work. After replacing the strut, car control will improve significantly and it will become more “obedient”.

The frequency of inspection and replacement of shock absorbers is determined by the maintenance instructions. However, the state of domestic roads and neglect of vehicle loading standards lead to accelerated wear of these elements.

Why the suspension rattles and the car is poorly controlled: signs of wear

• The car bounces on uneven surfaces, body vibrations are not damped.
• Severe washboard road vibration.
• On bumps, the movement of the suspension is transmitted to the steering wheel.
• The braking distance is increased with a working brake system.
• When entering a turn at a safe speed, the car drifts or skids (depending on whether the front or rear struts are out of order).
• Characteristic knocking noises in the suspension when the stabilizer struts are in good working order. The part may also rattle.
• Unstable behavior of the car on a straight road.

DETAILS: How to check the starter solenoid relay for serviceability

In addition, the condition of the shock absorbers can be checked visually.

• Faulty struts have oil stains.
• When you press your body weight on the fender of the car and then release it, the suspension should make 1-2 oscillations. If more, the shock absorber is faulty.

  
  When pressed, the body should not sway. Both racks or one of them may be faulty

We determine that the element has failed

There are several signs by which a malfunction can be identified:

• The body vibrates intensely on the comb on the side of the damaged shock absorber;
• There is a beating sensation in the steering wheel;
• The braking distance becomes longer;
• When turning, the car skids;
• Traces of oil leaks;
• When driving in a straight line, the car drifts to the side;
• There are knocks and extraneous noises in the rack.

Device diagram
If you do not repair the front struts in a timely manner at a service station or with your own hands, this can lead to dire consequences:

• The support bearings will be destroyed;
• Tires will wear unevenly, jump, and form bumps on the rubber surface;
• The wheel bearings will fail;
• The braking distance will become longer, which is dangerous on any section of the road;
• The brake pads will malfunction and their service life will be significantly reduced.

There are two main ways to check elements for malfunction. One is professional, the other is artisanal, but also quite effective.

1. Special vibration stand. A car is driven onto it, and the computer calculates the efficiency of the shock absorbers. It should be noted that new racks may show a result of about 75%, but this is quite normal. If the percentage is less than 50, then it’s time to change the part.
2. Manual rocking. You need to grab the front of the car, its wing, and start swinging. Try to achieve the maximum amplitude that your body weight allows. If anything, ask a friend to help. The point is to suddenly remove your hands after swinging and look at the car. If it immediately returns to its original position and does not fluctuate anymore, then everything is fine. If even a slight vibration is detected, you can assume that it is advisable to replace the racks in the near future.

Lada 2110 FalcoN › Logbook › Replacing front struts and supports

struts - the supports are leaking - the ball bearings are knocking - they are playing

Changing racks is quite expensive! And I decided to make myself collapsible racks so that I could only change the patrols =))) In my opinion, both better and cheaper. Since I had non-demountable racks up to this point, I had to buy rack housings.

The price tag turned out like this:

Ball forwards — 500 RUR Supports ss20 — 2600 RUR Spacers ss20 — 350 RUR Housings — 1000 RUR ss20 bumpers — 350 RUR Anthers — 200 RUR KYB cartridges — 3600 RUR

So the time is 15.00, I’m in the garage, I have to do everything before 18.00 and go pick up the girl from work =))) Before this I changed everything, I’m always happy, it was done quickly in about two hours, I think there won’t be any problems with the suspension, only in the fall I went through everything... So everything at first went as expected oil, drove into the garage in a good mood, drove the matte nine out, drove the StaFForda halfway, so that if anything could be climbed into the hole (poor location of the hole), turned on a small heater near me, put the car on bricks in front, removed the steering end, unscrewed the nuts on the camber bolts on top of the rack I unscrewed three, decided to change the struts first, without straining, I pulled out the lower camber bolt, and proceeded to the upper bolt; it won’t come out! Hit it, in place! And then it started!

In general, I don’t know how or why, but this upper camber bolt stuck like a child! At first I felt sorry for it, filled it with water and carefully tried to unscrew it and knock it out through the piece of wood, but all my efforts were in vain! He started hitting it with a hammer, then with a sledge, then with a sledge! Trying to unscrew it, I broke the cap! It's all useless!

He spat and went to do the other side, and it was the same story!

In general, the time is 18.00, I’m in despair, I’m alone, the bolts are broken but in place, I can’t get out of the garage (the car is half driven and disassembled), I don’t know what to do and how to knock them out, all attempts are in vain, the calluses on my hands are knocked down. I’m calling my beloved - I won’t come, I’m calling a mechanic I know - he says take it all off, including the hub and pump it out, damn it, how can I take it off alone! In general, my friend is just a hammer! Not only did he come and grab the breaker bolts, as well as a mechanic from the service station! =)))

Time 2.00, the grenade was assembled, the ball supports were installed, everything was installed =)))

PS I wanted to take pictures of the whole process specifically for the drive, but there was no time for that.

Source

Choosing which ones to buy

It is impossible to say unequivocally which front struts are best to choose for the VAZ 2110. Some choose factory ones because they are not rigid enough for them, others prefer analogues for their softer and more comfortable behavior.

Some people even want to install a sports version of struts , since they are the stiffest and the springs are the thickest.

Sports

The choice is between oil and gas (gas-oil, actually). The former are more affordable from a financial point of view, but they do not have such a wide temperature range, which is why the shock absorbers become stiffer in winter.

Gas analogues have a more complex design, a high price, but an excellent “tenacity” indicator.

Among the manufacturers, in addition to CC20, the following manufacturing companies can be distinguished:

All of them have approximately the same devices, so there should be no problems with selecting suitable parts.

Selecting new parts

It is not difficult to purchase a rear shock absorber for a VAZ 2112; there is a fairly large selection at any auto store. The question is what type of rack to choose. There are 2 types of them:

• conventional hydraulic (oil);
• gas-oil (gas).

Parts of the first type are cheaper and handle road unevenness much more smoothly. When the car is operated without special loads and with a quiet driving style, oil shock-absorbing elements can last quite a long time, provided that you do not come across a fake. Gas-oil shock absorbers are more expensive and behave more rigidly, which improves car handling and is a definite plus for an aggressive driving style. In addition, they last longer when used under increased loads.

To avoid purchasing low-quality products from unknown manufacturers, you should choose products from brands that have proven themselves on the roads of Russia:

At the same time, it is necessary to take into account that products of these brands are most often counterfeited in underground workshops. Therefore, it is better to buy parts from official sales representatives of these manufacturers. The same applies to VAZ 2110 springs, which sometimes change due to shrinkage from loads.

If there is an obvious malfunction of one of the shock absorbers, it is recommended to replace both elements.

There is no point in changing them one by one; you will only waste money and time on replacement. Using an old rack together with a new one will cause rapid wear of the latter. A “bad” part will handle irregularities much worse than a new one, which will put a double load on it. An exception is a situation where, for various reasons, a new shock absorber installed recently has failed. Then it makes sense to replace only it.

Replacement

Having decided on the choice of racks, collect a set of tools that will be useful to you when replacing them:

• Slotted screwdrivers;
• Key for holding the shock absorber rod;
• Open-end and ring wrenches sizes 6-22;
• Heads for 12-22;
• Tie rod end ball pin remover;
• Device for compressing springs on the front struts;
• The almighty solvent WD40.

We begin the replacement process itself.

1. Unscrew the nut that secures the upper shock absorber mounts to the body cup (in the engine compartment).
2. Release the upper supports.
3. Remove the outer tie rod ends. This is where your special puller will come in handy.
4. Remove the bolts that secure the lower part of the strut from the steering knuckle.
5. Remove the stand.
6. Disassemble and reassemble it.
7. Perform the reassembly process.

In what order should the telescopic stand be repaired:

1. First of all, read how to remove the telescopic stand from a VAZ 2110 car.

2. Clamp the stand in a vice, and then compress the spring using special ties. Then, using a tool, unscrew the upper nut of the strut support and the shock absorber rod, while keeping the latter from turning.

3. Remove the upper support from the car rack.

4. Remove the upper spring cup.

5. Remove the telescopic strut spring itself.

6. Release the shock absorber strut from the protective casing with the compression stroke buffer.

7. If the strut body, the spring cup located at the bottom, as well as the swing arm and bracket are subject to deformation and destruction, or cracks, then this condition indicates the need to replace the shock absorber strut. It is prohibited to carry out any welding on it; as a result, its performance will be impaired.

8. Next, you need to fix the shock absorber strut in a vertical position and raise and lower the shock absorber rod a couple of times until it stops. This is done in order to understand whether there are any jamming, knocking or failures along the way. If any are found, the telescopic stand requires replacement and cannot be repaired. The reasons for replacement may also be a failed thread in the upper part of the rod or fluid leakage (only slight sweating is acceptable).

In order to sort out the shock absorber strut, it is best to turn to the services of a specialized workshop, since repairing it requires a special tool and, importantly, skill.

10. You also need to pay attention to the condition of the protective casing and compression stroke buffer. If the latter is damaged, it must be replaced. If the rubber on the protective casing has peeled off from the metal reinforcement, and also if the casing has cracks, torn areas, and does not have the necessary elasticity, then it’s time for replacement.

11. The bearing requires replacement if there is axial movement in the support housing; it was noticed that grease is leaking from under the protective rings; when turning, the bearing jams; and also due to corrosion. It may be necessary to replace the upper support housing if cracks appear on it. Or you can replace the support assembly. The threads of the studs can also be worn and, needless to say, they need to be replaced.

What struts should I put on a VAZ 2110 and when should I change them?

Original number 21102905002, average price about 1850 rubles.

Analogues of the stand assembly:

• FENOX A61549C3 — 1605 rub.
• SACHS 312 583 — 2426 rub.
• Kraft KT 073521 — 2239 rub.

• KAYABA 365507 — 1710 rub.
• DELPHI DG10163 — 827 rub.
• Pilenga SH-P 2710 - G - 830 rub.

The check is carried out at every scheduled maintenance. The service life, as a rule, is from 30-100 thousand km, depending on operating conditions and driving style.

Self-repair of struts on a VAZ 2109 (Video)

It is quite possible to repair struts on a car with your own hands. First you need to determine if there is a malfunction, and then start doing the work.

Oil device

Symptoms of a problem

Racks may require repairs for several reasons:

• Presence of manufacturing defects in installed racks;
• The appearance of dull knocks of shock absorber supports on the car body. Usually occurs when driving on uneven, bumpy roads;
• Unpleasant squeaks that appear when starting or stopping the car;
• Traces of leakage of shock-absorbing fluid;
• The rack is dirty, it becomes wet, dirt quickly sticks;
• The car shakes even when driving on a flat road.

Even the best quality repairs do not provide a lasting effect. This is a temporary measure, which will definitely require the racks to be completely replaced soon.

Since a quick replacement cannot be avoided, you should think about choosing new racks for the future.

Type

Advantages

Flaws

The hydraulic unit allows them to cope perfectly with driving on good roads in the city and on the highway. They are not expensive and have small dimensions

Heat dissipation is poor. Inside the compensation chamber there is an air mixture, an excess of which leads to a decrease in the reliability of the mechanism, and if there is a lack of mixture, they do not work at all. Plus, cavitation bubbles can cause the oil to foam. This happens when driving frequently on dirt roads.

Durable, more rigid at high speed, good comfort indicators

Quite expensive, have an increased shock load, which negatively affects the comfort of the driver and passengers

A type of gas struts that has been improved. A compromise between gas and oil shock absorbers, providing stability and smooth movement on any surface. The pressure is not high, so the oil cannot boil. All vibrations are effectively damped. Reliable and durable

They have no disadvantages as such

When choosing between the three options presented, preference should be given to double-pipe gas-filled shock absorber struts. They are best suited for VAZ 2109.

Gas unit

Repair

Since the VAZ 2109 is equipped with front and rear struts, the features of their repair should be discussed separately.

Such activities are not difficult to implement if you have at least a little experience. If it is missing, be sure to contact a trusted service station.

Front struts

To repair the front struts on your car, follow the instructions and rely on video tutorials.

Dismantling and replacement process

1. Remove the racks and clean them of accumulated dirt.
2. Use a special tie to secure the spring. This way it will not put pressure on the support cups.
3. After securing the spring, remove the nut from the upper strut mounting assembly.
4. Remove the upper support limiting assembly. The support and bearing can then be removed.
5. Next in line are the top cup and spring assembly.
6. Make sure the swing arm, lower strut cups, shroud, and bracket assembly are in good condition. If there are defects, this entire assembly is replaced entirely.
7. Place the shock absorber vertically. Begin raising and lowering the rod assembly until it stops. If there are signs of abnormal noise, knocking, dips or jamming, completely replace the part.
8. Using a chisel, remove the damper support assembly. Next, arm yourself with a wrench to unscrew the fastening nut that secures the rack body.
9. Remove the nut, take out the rod and working cylinder.
10. Be sure to drain all liquid from the shock absorber into a prepared container. If the liquid has retained its quality, it can be refilled and reused.
11. Thoroughly clean the internal surfaces of the casing of the element being repaired.
12. Install a new cartridge cartridge into the housing that matches your rack - gas or oil.
13. Reassemble the unit, steps in reverse order.
14. Replace faulty parts as assembly progresses.
15. Carefully return the springs to their original state. This is due to the fact that it is clamped and can hurt your hands if you suddenly remove the lock.
16. If the housing has lost its elasticity, cracks or crevices have formed on it, or traces of metal peeling off from the rubber have appeared, be sure to replace the component.
17. If there are leaks from under the protective rings of the upper support assembly, or the bearing seizes, this assembly will definitely have to be replaced with a new element.
18. It is recommended to change all used mounting bolts during the repair process in order to maximize the service life of the new elements installed during the process of restoring the functionality of the front struts.

The repair process includes quite a few stages, where the most important factor for success is accuracy and attentiveness. Otherwise the work is not difficult.

Rear pillars

The sequence of repair work on the rear pillar on the VAZ 2109 is as follows:

• Turn the gearbox into first gear;
• Place locking shoes under the front axle;
• Lift the rear part, securely fix it with supports, and then remove the rear pillar;
• Remove the buffer from the assembly and also remove the boot from the spring. Check their condition. If they are worn out or show signs of defects, replace them;
• Clean the shock absorber assembly thoroughly. Next, it should be clamped using a vice;
• Check whether the shock absorbers travel normally. If there are problems, the element is replaced with a new one;
• Make sure that the silent block located in the lower mounting unit is in good condition. The boot, buffers, gaskets, cushions and springs are also checked. If there are signs of wear or defects, all of them must be replaced;
• Remove the shock absorber rod, remove the fixing nut, deliver the cylinder and drain the liquid from it;
• Remove the compression valve housing;
• Fix the rod with a vice, remove the nut, valves, piston, bushing, oil seal race and the oil seal itself;
• Check the current condition of the specified parts. If there are signs of malfunction, be sure to replace it;
• Reassemble the unit and install the racks on the car.