What to do if the VAZ-2110 fuel pump does not work?


The electric fuel pump (EFP) is connected via a 4-pin relay to the following devices:
  • with a battery from which the EBN receives power;
  • with an ignition switch through which it is started.

The EBN must start almost simultaneously with the starter, since the starter gives the engine an impulse to start, and the fuel pump supplies fuel to the engine. If the fuel pump does not turn on in time and starts pumping gasoline, the car will not start. How to check the fuel pump on a VAZ 2114, why doesn’t the EBL turn on when you turn the ignition key? What problems arise in the electrical circuit, you will learn about this from our article.

How I looked for the reason for the failure of the VAZ 2110 fuel pump

In the evening I drove into the garage, but in the morning I couldn’t start it. Usually I turn on the ignition and hear the relay click and the pump hum, and after about 3-5 seconds the relay click is heard again and the pump goes silent and I turn the key all the way, the starter works but the engine does not start because there is no pressure in the power system, the pump does not pump .
I'm looking for the cause of the fuel pump failure by checking the fuse, which is located

Under the side panel in the depths there is a fuse box, relay and ECU .

Relay and fuse box enlarged

First, I checked fuse number 3, took it out of its socket, inspected the condition of the contacts and checked the integrity with a device, the fuse turned out to be intact (by the way, 15 amperes )

this did not help, then I checked relay number 4 . To do this, unscrew the nuts indicated by the arrows to remove the relay and install a known good one. Where can I get a working relay? high beam relay in the mounting block for the duration of the check ; it is exactly the same as the fuel pump relay. This did not help, I removed the rear seat under which there is a gas tank with a submersible pump.

Further opens before us

Before performing the above actions, I checked the power circuit (+)(-), i.e. The ground of the fuel pump at connector number 5 can be checked using the test lamp and the result is positive, I checked the continuity of the circuit on the pigtail at connectors numbers 4.6

It may happen that there is no power circuit ( + ) or ( ) on connector number 5 . If those . ground does not reach the connector, you need to check the connection to the body. My power supply circuits are ringing.

The ground connection point is difficult to access; to get there you need to dismantle the upper and lower lining of the floor tunnel.

I checked the power circuits reach connector number 4 , but the fuel pump does not work, then I performed the above steps as shown in the figure, and removed the fuel module with the fuel pump from the fuel tank. Removed the pressure ring and gasket

Carefully pulled the fuel module out of the tank a little, tilting it towards the right door of the passenger compartment so as not to bend the float arm of the fuel gauge sensor (FLS)

I disassembled the fuel module. Separately, I checked the pump directly from the battery. The pump is running. I checked the connectors and found the cause of the failure; it turned out that the positive contact of the connector (in the form of a pin) at the bottom under the casing was slightly burnt. I cleaned the contact (in the form of a pin) of the connector, but I couldn’t clean the other side of the connector.

I bought it complete with float.

I assembled the fuel module without installing it in the gas tank, checked it, it works. The pump must be installed with the arrow pointing towards the trunk. Installed and drove the fuel pump works fine.

Join the group and you will be able to view images in full size

Checking the fuse


Blown EBN fuses are a common occurrence in the circuit of a submersible fuel pump. There are several reasons that render this protective device unusable, and before installing a new fuse, they must be eliminated:

  • A short circuit in the electrical circuit occurs due to chafing of the wire insulation (rarely), and due to burnout of the wiring due to weak contacts. This happens much more often;
  • Failure of the fuel pump relay increases the load on the fuse;
  • Poor quality of the fuse itself. You should not skimp on switching devices. These little parts are inexpensive and the savings will be negligible. Therefore, when choosing fuses, you should give preference to well-known and trusted manufacturers. You should also not install fuses with a lower current strength than prescribed by the car manufacturer. The current strength is indicated on the mounting block box. For the fuel pump, select a 15A fuse.

All places for mounting the mass of the VAZ of the tenth family

Location of masses in the car interior

1 – fuse block. 2 – near the driver’s right leg there is a shield that is attached with a couple of screws; after removing it, you will see that everything is there as in the picture. 3 – in principle, the situation is similar to the point described above, except that the shield is located next to the navigator’s left leg.

The stud in the dashboard behind the mounting block, in order to find it, you need to bend in a certain way. The headlight hydraulic corrector is shown there for reference; the ground pin is located above and to the left of it. Through this mass, the windshield wipers, heater fan (21124) and door lock activators are powered.

The console is on the right side, from here it is more convenient to check the very important ground pin, through which the bracket under the ECU is connected to the car body, and accordingly the reliability of the ground of the ECM and the cooling fan depends - this nut also holds the corner that supports the far part of the left panel of the console.

Weight of the Electric Fuel Pump (EFP) module and fuel level indicator. A black and white wire is attached to the left rear handbrake lever mounting bolt under the floor tunnel. The fuel pump is powered through this mass, and the accuracy of the fuel level reading also depends on it.

The ground is on the stud of the fuel pump flange; this wire most likely connects the pump housing to the fuel filter bracket and this was done for safety reasons to equalize the potentials of these two devices.

It is easy to find the ground of the electric fuel pump module without removing the tunnel; just fold back the mat, slightly bend or carefully trim the carpet of the floor behind the driver's seat below the ashtray of the rear passengers, without damaging the ground wire itself. Then the carpet easily falls into place and the cut is almost invisible.

Location of masses under the hood of a car

The battery terminal is large and thick with a large cross-section wire (approximately 16 sq. mm). Its thick part, about the thickness of a little finger, connects the negative battery and the engine. If the contact of this wire is unreliable, there may be a deterioration in the battery charge, a decrease in the starter rotation speed when starting, as well as problems in the ECM system, because the minus comes from the engine, from the studs on which the ignition distributor hung on carburetor cars.

The thin wire connecting the battery negative and the car body is the main connection for all electricity consumers in the car, and in carburetor modifications also for the engine. Through this connection, all the car's lighting equipment, radio and other devices are powered, depending on the year of manufacture of the car.

The connection point for the negative terminal of the battery to the engine block is connected to the upper stud of the thermostat, if you look behind the air filter. The cross-section of the wire was chosen based on the large current consumption of the starter; this wire can easily be traced by hand if it is led from the battery. The starter current flows through this wire, charging the battery, some sensors screwed into the engine block are connected through it

Nearby there is another ground connection point to the engine block, it is slightly higher and to the left. The 2112 engine has two brown wires connected to this place - this is the mass of the ECM, that is, the mass of the sensors, ignition module, ECU and cooling fan. The arrow below shows the engine (starter) ground wire from the battery.

The mass point under the adsorber is the mass of the right headlight and the mass of the right fog lamp.

The fuel pump relay does not turn on.

If the fuel pump does not work, then first of all you need to check the attraction of the main relay and the fuel pump relay. If the main relay does not click, then it is necessary to check its switching circuit and its serviceability. How to do this is described in the article the main relay does not turn on,

In the case when the main relay turns on, but the fuel pump relay does not, it is necessary to check the power at pins 85 and 86. When using a test lamp, its current consumption should not exceed 0.25A, otherwise damage to the controller may occur. If the control lamp does not light up on any terminal, then the relay is not receiving power. This may be caused by a blown fuse or a broken power cord.

In the case when the lamp burns brightly on one terminal, and at half-glow on the second, and the relay may be activated, you should remove the relay from the socket and connect terminals 85 and 86 with a test lamp. When the ignition is turned on, the control lamp should light up and go out after approximately 20 - 30 seconds. If the lamp lights up and there is poor contact in the connection between the block and the fuel pump relay. If the lamp does not light up, there may be a break in the wire connecting the relay to the controller or the controller itself may be faulty.

Weight of the VAZ 2110 fuel pump, where is it located?

Release date: 05/10/2021

Rating of a car owner named Romain: Handling, dynamics, ground clearance, paint, excellent climate control: the interior quickly warms up in winter and cools quickly in summer. Decent radio and excellent Bluetooth. Excellent windshield - stones fly off as if from armor. There are no crickets and this Pleases. Fuel efficiency.

Category: Detailed car maintenance guide

Vehicle characteristics: The vehicle dimensions are as follows: body length - 3274, width - 1100, height - 1573 mm. The wheelbase is 2667 mm. Ground clearance 123 mm. The car is equipped with a hybrid power unit. The 2-cylinder engine is equipped with a system that provides engine power output. There are 4 valves per cylinder. The diameter of one cylinder is 73 mm, the piston stroke is 78 mm. The engine crankshaft accelerates to 4000 rpm. Maximum torque is maintained up to 3000 rpm.

Posted by admin: at the request of Karp

Laughter in the topic: News: Scientists have come to the conclusion that humanity will die in 6.5 billion years. Commentary on it: “damn, I’ll just pay off the mortgage!”

Video instructions: VAZ 2110 where the mass of the fuel pump is located

13 years on the forum

From: Belgorod

Car: VAZ 21120, opal, 2001, 1.5 16V, M 1.5.4N

Added: January 22, 2010 23:30 Message title: Where is the mass of the fuel pump? –> In general, I started it today and warmed it up. bam, it started, I started it, all the signs of a non-working fuel pump, I listened, it’s definitely not working. It was -17 outside at that time. I was scared and wasn’t even standing near the house yet. In short, a tester in a car is a thing. I called, there is no mass! At -17 I didn’t want a driver, so I threw in an additional temporary wire and drove off. So, I don’t want to disassemble half the car, tell me where the fuel pump gets the power? Return to top krot 21224

9 years on the forum

Added: January 22, 2010 23:35 Message title: –> I don’t agree with the fact that you’ll have to disassemble less than half the car. (just kidding), but the weight of the fuel pump was screwed at the factory to one of the bolts securing the handbrake. I discovered it myself when I was changing the handbrake lever, unscrewed the handbrake and decided to drive the car into the garage, well, to make it easier to install, bam it wouldn’t start, I started digging around and found it. mainly to the rear handbrake bolt which is closer to the driver's seat. Return to top maxxic

13 years on the forum

From: Belgorod

Car: VAZ 21120, opal, 2001, 1.5 16V, M 1.5.4N

Added: January 22, 2010 23:38 Message title: –> Damn it. Dunduk I. ))) I recently unscrewed the handbrake, I haven’t even put everything back together yet. And I saw it.. I forgot completely.. in a hurry I screwed on the handbrake and drove off.. it would have been better if it didn’t work right away.. apparently it got caught right away somewhere, I’ve been driving for a week “without the weight of the fuel pump” Return to the beginning krot 21224

9 years on the forum

Added: January 22, 2010 23:48 Message title: –> Perhaps the bolt was not tightened all the way, maybe it just needs to be tightened. Return to top maxxic

13 years on the forum

From: Belgorod

Car: VAZ 21120, opal, 2001, 1.5 16V, M 1.5.4N

Added: January 23, 2010 09:48 Post title: –> krot 21224 wrote:

Perhaps the bolt is not fully tightened, maybe it just needs to be tightened. no, I completely forgot about it (the mass), the wire is lying somewhere under the noise, unfastened.. today I’ll try to pull it out from there and screw it on. Return to top where is the mass of the VAZ 2110 fuel pump

Gasoline pump (fuel pump)

Gasoline pump (fuel pump) is a motor that drives gasoline, creating operating pressure in the fuel rail of the car. The fuel pump is part of the fuel module.

Fuel module

The fuel module is a single unit, which includes the pump itself, a fuel level indicator sensor assembled with a plastic float, an intake chamber, and a filter (mesh).

The fuel module for 1.5 and 1.6 liter engines is different.

Fuel module for engine 2111 (1.5I) – CODE 2112-1139009-12

Fuel module for engine 11183 (1.6I) – CODE 21101-1139009-01

Signs of a fuel pump malfunction

– the car won’t start

A possible reason could be a non-working or semi-working fuel pump. The fuel pump must create a certain pressure in the fuel system for normal operation. But the cause of the malfunction can be not only the fuel pump; in any case, the first thing you need to do is measure the pressure in the fuel rail, check the spark and then draw the appropriate conclusions. More detailed information can be found here.

– the fuel pump does not “buzz” after turning the ignition key

Here, most likely, the issue lies in the wiring to the fuel pump. A separate article is devoted to this problem.

– interruptions in engine operation

– the car jerks at low speed

Again, the fuel pump itself may be fine; here the problem may be the low-purity filter (mesh) under the fuel pump.

What pressure should the fuel pump create?

The pressure created by the fuel pump must be at least 3.2 bar.

Operating pressure in the fuel rail for a 1.5L engine:

From 285 to 326 kPa

For 1.6L engine:

From 375 to 390 kPa

If the pressure does not correspond to performance indicators, then the following elements may be possible causes of the malfunction:

– small and large filters

How to replace the fuel pump?

The fuel pump must maintain constant pressure. If at 3000 rpm the pressure begins to gradually drop, then the fuel pump simply does not have time to pump. This fuel pump needs to be replaced. To replace the fuel pump, use the article

Where is the ground for the fuel pump (fuel pump)?

The weak point on Samara is the weight of the fuel pump. Due to oxidation or poor contact, the car begins to start poorly, and in general there are problems with starting the engine. The fuel pump ground mount is located under the handbrake lever mount.

In any case, the first thing you need to do is check the pressure in the fuel rail, then draw conclusions. Home page

Replacing the fuel pump on a VAZ 2114/2115

Before you begin work, you should relieve the fuel pressure in the system. Even when the pump is not working, the pressure can remain very high, which will lead to the pressure of a stream of gasoline during dismantling work.

To reduce the pressure in the fuel system of a car, it is enough to let it stand on level ground for three hours. The fuel pressure in the hoses and pipes will noticeably decrease, and replacing the device will take place without any difficulties.


Not in all cases it is necessary to replace the fuel pump with a new one; sometimes it is enough to simply repair it

Preparing tools

To make all stages of the work easier, you will need to prepare several tools. As a rule, most car owners have all of them:

  • crosshead screwdriver;
  • flat screwdriver;
  • open-end wrench 17;
  • head at 7;
  • extension for key.

How to remove a faulty fuel pump in a VAZ 2114/2115

The procedure for dismantling the fuel pump determines the following stages of work:

  1. Open the hood and disconnect the negative terminal from the battery.
  2. Raise the rear seat cushion inside the vehicle.
  3. There is a small hatch under the seat - it is under it that the fuel pump is located.
  4. Using a 17mm wrench you will need to unscrew all the nuts securing the hatch to the floor.
  5. Putting the hatch cover aside, you will need to disconnect the two wire blocks. To do this, you will first need to bend the fixing element on the plug.
  6. Next, using a 17mm wrench, you will need to unscrew the nuts on the fuel line and disconnect the fuel pipes.
  7. After this, the fuel pump itself will become accessible. Using an extension cord and a wrench, you will need to unscrew all the fasteners that connect the pump to the metal surface of the car.
  8. The best way to remove the fuel pump is to use a screwdriver to hook it onto the rubber ring.

Video: how to replace the fuel pump in a VAZ 2114

How to install the fuel pump back

The procedure for installing the fuel pump in the VAZ 2114/2115 is completely reverse: that is, you will first need to insert the device into the cavity under the seat, and then connect all the disconnected wires and tubes. The final stage is closing the hatch and returning the rear seat cushion to its original place.

The ability to independently diagnose a fuel pump failure, as well as quickly replace or repair the device, will be especially useful for those drivers who are accustomed to servicing their car themselves. In addition, the procedure for checking the fuel pump and its repair cannot be considered particularly complex work, so even an inexperienced owner will be able to get the fuel pump into working condition without contacting a service station.

Rating
( 1 rating, average 5 out of 5 )
Did you like the article? Share with friends:
For any suggestions regarding the site: [email protected]