Priora engine lost spark

January 15, 2015 Lada.Online 300 180 380

To start the engine, you need to ensure that a spark appears at a certain moment to ignite the air-fuel mixture in the cylinders. Problems with starting the engine occur if one or more elements of the system malfunction. The table lists possible reasons why the Priora does not start.

Signs of faulty spark plugs

The Check Engine Light can also be a sign of faulty spark plugs.

If the spark plugs do not work correctly, for example, they periodically miss a spark or do not create the required voltage discharge, problems arise in the engine due to insufficient fuel combustion.

As a result of this, the driver notices the following changes in engine operation:

It is important to note that some of the symptoms listed only appear under specific conditions. However, their absence does not indicate the normal condition of the spark plugs. A worn-out spark plug may be just one of the signs.

Experienced motorists also know that similar signs of malfunction can signal other problems. The problem may be in the ignition coil, high-voltage wiring, power system and other systems that keep the engine running. Therefore, when faced with one or more symptoms, you need to correctly diagnose the ignition unit.

Hall sensor and system diagnostics

A Hall sensor is a device needed to measure the magnetic field, current, and resistance in conductors. Currently, there are two types of such devices: analog and digital. The latter can determine where there is and where there is no magnetic field. That is, it can be used if the spark in the VAZ-2112 car is lost. It is also used during diagnostics of the ignition systems of VAZ and other cars. The main advantage is that the sensor has a non-contact effect. Therefore, there is no likelihood that a short circuit will appear in the circuit.

An analog Hall sensor converts field induction into voltage. The magnitude it shows depends entirely on the polarity of the field, as well as its strength.

Ignition coil malfunctions on Lada Priora 8 and 16 valves and choice

The ignition coil is a key element in the entire system. The car battery provides DC power that is unable to start the car. To start the engine, conversion to alternating, high-frequency current is necessary. This is exactly the problem that this node solves. However, all sorts of malfunctions can also occur with it, and the device can no longer be repaired and requires replacement. Today we’ll talk about how to check for a faulty part and which ignition coil for a Priora would be the best option.

Misfires on Priora

There may be no spark at the Prior due to a breakdown of the sensor, coil, spark plug or ECU. Failures that lead to loss of spark are quite easy to solve, with the exception of a breakdown in the ECU.

If the spark on a Priora disappears on all 4 cylinders, this indicates a breakdown of the crankshaft sensor in 80% of cases, in the remaining 20% the ECU may fail.

If there is no spark on one of the cylinders, then there may be several reasons - a spark plug, a coil or a transistor in the ECU.

Consider each of the reasons in more detail.

Spark plug

Quite often, low-quality spark plugs can fail after several hundred kilometers or even immediately after installation. It is recommended to purchase only high-quality spark plugs.

Which spark plugs are best for Priora can be read in our article.

You can check the serviceability of the spark plug on a special stand or by trying to replace it with a new one or by installing a suspicious spark plug in the working cylinder.

Ignition coil

Problems with the coil appear practically the same as with spark plugs. One of the windings in it may break or break through the insulation, which causes the coil to malfunction. IKZ Prioras cannot be repaired and if they break down they are replaced with a new one.

You can check the serviceability of the coil by replacing it with a coil of another cylinder or using a special diagnostic device ELM 327.

You can read how to check the coil here.

Application of Hall Sensor

Engine won't start

If, during the check, you find that a spark gets to the spark plugs, but the 2112 engine still does not start, then you need to perform diagnostics.

If, after diagnostics, problems were identified with one of these elements, then you can fix them yourself. Usually the spark plugs begin to work after proper wiping, although this does not always happen, so they have to be replaced.

If the light is on

Sometimes the injector fault light stays on until the engine warms up to 90 degrees, after which it stops flashing. This is usually observed in winter, when there is severe frost outside. And although the problem is not serious, it will have to be solved. It happens like this:

None Lost spark on VAZ 2112 injector 16 valves, reasons, diagnostics Link to main publication

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Motorists often have to deal with one or another breakdown of their iron horse. One of the quite common problems is the lack of spark. Owners of both domestic cars and foreign cars have had to deal with it. Let's look at this problem in more detail using the example of one of the fairly popular Russian cars.

“There is no spark in a VAZ-210 with a 16-valve injection engine” - this is, in medical terms, a diagnosis. Accordingly, in order to get rid of the “disease”, the root cause must be found and eliminated. Meanwhile, this is precisely where the problem arises for many.

Not all car enthusiasts can determine the reason why the spark disappeared. An even more difficult moment is eliminating the malfunction that has arisen.

However, let's talk about everything in order. The spark may disappear if there are problems with:

How to fix the problem

So, the reason why the spark disappeared has been established. Now you can move on to fixing the problem. If it's all about the ignition coil, then checking with a multimeter will show this.

One point should be noted here. If the ignition coil is faulty, then it is best to immediately replace it with a new one. Some people decide to repair this unit on their own, but practice has already proven that this is nothing more than a temporary measure.

Sometimes there is no spark on all coils. In such a situation, the problem must be looked for in the wiring or controller.

The cause may also be a malfunction of the fuel pump. Checking here starts with the simplest. You should turn on the ignition and listen to see if fuel pumping has begun. If the operation of the fuel pump is not heard, you need to check whether fuel is getting into the cylinders. Also inspect the fuse for the fuel pump for integrity. If it fails, replace it.

The reason may be directly in the fuel pump itself. In order to find it, you will need to remove the entire module and disassemble it. It is quite easy to check the performance of the pump.

To do this, you need to close the contacts through the tester. In the absence of any indicators, the “death of the patient” can be stated. In such a situation, the part must be replaced with a new one.

Another fairly common reason is candles. To make a more accurate diagnosis, we unscrew them one by one and conduct a visual inspection. If nothing like this is found, we proceed to checking the gap and measuring the resistance. You can check the performance of spark plugs on a special stand, but this is unlikely to be in the garage of most motorists.

Therefore, you will have to use the old, time-tested method. We put a high-voltage wire on the previously unscrewed spark plug, and install its base on ground - the car body or engine. Checking for the presence of a spark is carried out while the starter is cranking.

It is important to be especially careful with this test method. We recommend using a proven, working kit of a suitable size - this verification method will be safer.

Problems in the operation of the gas distribution mechanism can also cause a lack of spark. However, the timing belt is the last place where you should look for the source of the malfunction. However, sometimes the problem lies in misaligned valve timing due to incorrect installation of the timing disk. It is located on the crankshaft pulley and plays the role of a synchronizer for the sensor. In order to fix the problem, you must install the disk correctly in accordance with the marked marks.

No spark in the first cylinder

If the spark is lost on a VAZ 2112 injector 16 valves, then you can diagnose the breakdown using a spark gap made by yourself. The drawing shows a diagram for checking the presence of a spark simultaneously for 4 conductors,

and the photo shows a device for testing 2 wires.

Having installed the spark plugs in the spark gap, you need to turn on the ignition and observe the occurrence of an electric arc. If it appears on only one of the two spark plugs when the current is distributed simultaneously to 2 spark plugs, this indicates that the conductors or windings of the ignition module have been pierced to ground. If there is no spark on two spark plugs at the same time, the cause should be found in a malfunction of the controller or ignition winding. It is quite possible that this is caused by a broken wire.

To determine the integrity of all electrical cables, their resistance is measured - as a rule, it should be identical in all wires of one electrical circuit. Check the serviceability of the coils using controller diagnostics for errors. If the module cannot be verified, then it is better to simply replace it with a new one (or a used one, but in good working order) and repeat the check again. In the case when there is still no spark on the VAZ 2110 injector 8 valves, you need to diagnose the controller and the electrical wiring connecting it to the coil.

If there is no current in all cables, you need to check the power supply to the coil and the presence of a minus. If the wires turn out to be in good condition, then it is necessary to check the functionality of the sensor responsible for the location of the crankshaft. This must be done as follows. Turn off the ignition and the fuel pump stops working. Now, if we start cranking the crankshaft and the pump turns on, then the sensor is in working condition. However, it should be remembered that some models of controllers turn on the pump only when a certain crankshaft speed is reached.

If the spark on the VAZ 2110 injector is lost due to a controller malfunction, then in most cases this is caused by a breakdown of the transistor. For this reason, modules also fail. If the module is in compound, the controller must be repaired. To carry it out, basic electrical skills and the ability to use a soldering iron are enough, so you can do it yourself. The sensor breaks very rarely, and if there is no spark in the VAZ 2114 injector, then most likely the contact in the sensor’s power supply is simply broken.

This may be caused by dirt, oil, or improper installation of electrical wiring after repairs. If after cleaning all the connecting elements the problem does not disappear, proceed to more specific diagnostics.

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How to fix the problem

Five reasons why the heater in the car does not heat up

So, the reason why the spark disappeared has been established. Now you can move on to fixing the problem. If it's all about the ignition coil, then checking with a multimeter will show this. One point should be noted here. If the ignition coil is faulty, then it is best to immediately replace it with a new one. Some people decide to repair this unit on their own, but practice has already proven that this is nothing more than a temporary measure. The result will still be the same - replacing the damaged ignition coil.

The reason may be directly in the fuel pump itself. In order to find it, you will need to remove the entire module and disassemble it. It is quite easy to check the performance of the pump. To do this, you need to close the contacts through the tester. In the absence of any indicators, the “death of the patient” can be stated. In such a situation, the part must be replaced with a new one. If “the patient is alive,” then you should check the wiring for breaks and clean the contact group.

It should be noted that it is important to be especially careful with this verification method. It’s best to simply ask one of your neighbors in the garage for a known working kit of a suitable size - this method of checking will be safer

It is quite easy to detect the cause of problems with high-voltage wires. In this case, the engine will stall, and this will manifest itself as noticeable vibration during operation of the power unit. There are two options here - either the wire is faulty, or they are connected incorrectly. In the first case, it is best to change the entire set at once, in the second, rearrange them in the correct sequence.

Note that not all the reasons why the spark on a VAZ-2110 can fail are given here. The problem may arise, for example, with the controller or with a broken wiring. Sometimes it lies on the surface, and in some cases you have to work hard to detect the malfunction. If you are not particularly knowledgeable about the structure of a car, it is best to immediately seek help from a specialist. This option has one main advantage. Diagnostics will not cost that much, but at the same time you will save your time by not wasting it on a lengthy search for the reasons for the lack of a spark.

Why the spark disappears - main reasons

Spark plugs VAZ 2114 injector 8 valves price

On different types of engines, there is a fairly wide list of reasons why there is no spark at the spark plugs. Among the main experts are:

Problems with spark plugs (destruction of the spark plug body, defects in the electrodes, etc.). It is also worth noting that the spark plugs may be filled with fuel or oil, which indicates a breakdown of the engine itself.
Malfunctions of high-voltage wires associated with insulation breakdown or lack of contact.
Failure or errors in the operation of the crankshaft position sensor.
Problems with the ignition module, ignition coil, switch;
Malfunctions or malfunctions of the distributor.
Deterioration or absence of ground contact.
Errors related to the operation of the electronic engine control unit (ECU);

conclusions

How to check the crankshaft sensor of a VAZ 2115 injector 8 valves

Loss of spark on a 16-valve VAZ-2112 may be a consequence of the failure of several vehicle components at once or each individually. But, if the operations indicated in the article did not help, then you should contact specialists at a car service center who will accurately identify the cause and eliminate it.

It is unlikely that several nodes will fail at once. This has not happened in my practice. Unless, of course, you hit the car properly.

The ignition coil rarely fails because it is initially reliable. But the spark plugs and fuel pump often fail.

Even if the timing phase is off, there should be a spark!

There will be a spark, but not at the right time when the air-fuel mixture arrives.

the article sucks. wrote the teapot. Moreover, the pump and the spark, and the timing belt. even with a broken timing belt there will be a spark. Kettle...boil somewhere else

What does the fuel pump and broken phases have to do with it? The author is in the furnace.

Wrote 100% who themselves have no idea what they are writing, if on the 12th engine if the spark disappears completely, then 80% is the module, and then 5% each of the crankshaft sensor, ignition switch, ECU and a break in the bus from the brain to the module or crankshaft all

Oh yes, I almost forgot the immobilizer and the signaling may be glitchy

I have a VAZ 2110 2001. First, the fuel pump failed, I found and eliminated the cause; the spark disappeared from the fuel pump; I can’t find the cause yet.

Still haven't found the spark?

I have the same problem. What helped in the end?

Guys, such garbage, no spark, no prior, crankshaft sensor called, coils too, they put another prior on mine and vice versa, I tried everything and it’s not there??

You write specifically for not all kinds of bullshit.

but there is a spark from the central one, that is, it goes to the distributor, but from the spark plug... oops! Everything was replaced with new ones, BREMI, and it’s still there!

Hello everyone, I have a 2112 16 valve, I turn the starter on the dashboard, all the lower indicators are blinking and the relay is knocking on the right side at the bottom, the car won’t start, I checked the spark and it hits every other time, can the module show off like that?

Exactly the same problem. Didn't find a solution?

Charge the battery, everything will be fine

VAZ 21124 1.6 16kl engine 124 The cylinder head gasket in the 4th cylinder was broken. I dismantled it, cleaned everything, washed it properly, ground the valve, changed the gasket and reassembled it, and now, disappointingly, the engine does not start, there is a spark, there is also fuel. Ignition is normal. The motor sat disassembled for a month. Having rummaged around on your website, I found the reason for the installation, due to inattention, I mixed up the camshafts. Because of my carelessness, I had to re-open the engine and, as it turned out, the truth justified itself.

I swapped the camshafts, fortunately the valves on my engine don’t bend. I cleaned the old sealant, degreased it, applied a new one, and assembled everything in the reverse order. And as a result, the engine also does not start, I was upset about my work, it seemed like I was doing everything according to the instructions. This time the reason was the lack of fuel and spark. I racked my brain and checked everything several times but to no avail. I had to resort to this site again, and still found the reason, I started the engine with an uninstalled generator drive pulley.

Eliminated the cause, everything was fine, the engine started, everything is normal, thanks for the information

Source: https://7gear.ru/tuning/vaz-2112-net-iskry.html

conclusions

It is unlikely that several nodes will fail at once. This has not happened in my practice. Unless, of course, you hit the car properly.

The ignition coil rarely fails because it is initially reliable. But the spark plugs and fuel pump often fail.

Even if the timing phase is off, there should be a spark!

There will be a spark, but not at the right time when the air-fuel mixture arrives.

the article sucks. wrote the teapot. Moreover, the pump and the spark, and the timing belt. even with a broken timing belt there will be a spark. Kettle...boil somewhere else

What does the fuel pump and broken phases have to do with it? The author is in the furnace.

Oh yes, I almost forgot the immobilizer and the signaling may be glitchy

Source

There is no spark, we check the functionality of the components. Algorithm for finding a spark on spark plugs and ignition coil

When the spark is lost, you will, of course, never start the car, and in such a situation, first of all, you need to check the ignition system.

The vehicle's ignition system plays a key role in its operation. If in case of many other malfunctions the car can be taken under its own power to the service station, then in case of problems with the ignition it is unlikely that it will be possible to start the engine at all.

How to check the spark

Checking the spark on a spark plug can be done in several ways:

The main reasons why there is no spark

No spark injector

You need to be very careful when checking the spark on fuel-injected cars (especially for foreign cars - you can burn the electronic unit).

It is recommended to use a spark gap to understand at what stage there is no spark on the spark plugs (no spark from the distributor, no spark from the coil, or directly from the spark plug itself). If there is no spark in all cylinders at the same time, there may be several culprits:

The main reasons for the lack of spark

General view of the engine 10-12 series 16 valves

Not all motorists know the reasons for the loss of spark, much less methods for diagnosing and troubleshooting problems. So, it is worth identifying the main reasons, and then deciphering why exactly they become the cause. Finally, you need to consider ways to eliminate the defect. So, what reasons could cause the spark to disappear:

All the reasons have been found and it is worth moving on to the process of eliminating this malfunction.

Misfire in a VAZ Priora cylinder, signs, causes

Unstable engine operation and shaking at idle, loss of power and increased fuel consumption, the appearance of a “Check” error on the instrument panel, jerking of the car and other troubles can be caused by a misfire in the engine cylinder.

There is nothing wrong with this, because if the engine runs but does not pull, it means that not everything is so critical.

Next, we will talk about how to properly diagnose a car and identify the cause of the malfunction.

Main causes of misfire

There can be many reasons for the problem; even professional mechanics spend more than one hour to identify its source.

The main reasons for misfire in cylinders 1, 2, 3, 4 can be:

Diagnostics using a computer

If your car is equipped with a modern control unit, then this greatly simplifies troubleshooting; otherwise, you will have to use time-tested old-fashioned methods.

By connecting the computer to the car, you can find out in which cylinder, 1, 2, 3 or 4, and for what reason there are misfires, for example, the ignition coil or one of the injectors has failed.

But in any case, before going to a car service center, you need to check the condition of the spark plugs, injectors, high-voltage wires, how the exhaust system works, and whether there is smoke from the exhaust pipe.

Many car owners cannot afford instruments for car diagnostics, these include scanners (software and portable), motor testers, oscilloscopes, gas analyzers and other devices, and you need to be able to use them, read error codes, and so on. Although if you look into it, there is nothing complicated there.

The scanner is connected to a special connector, which can be located in different places in each car model, but it has one function: diagnostics.

Next, error codes are read from the control unit and decrypted.

For example, VAZ 2110, 2114, 2115, Lada Kalina, Priora, Granta cars have the following error codes that are characteristic of misfire:

POPULAR WITH READERS: Is it worth warming up an injection engine?

Read more about how to diagnose a car using a laptop.

Diagnostics of VAZ 2109, 2110, 2114, 2115, Kalina, Priora, Granta

Let's look at misfires using the example of the VAZ 2109, 2110, 2114, 2115, Kalina, Priora, Granta models.

The computer generated error P0303 (misfire in 3rd crank).

First you need to understand how the ignition coil works. It consists of two small coils, pins 1 and 4 are connected to the first, and pins 2 and 3 to the second.

Those. during operation, voltage is simultaneously supplied to the first and fourth cylinders or to the second and third.

We have misfires in cylinder 3. Remove the wires from 2 and 3 and swap them.

Start the engine and see if the error has moved to cylinder 2, then the problem is most likely in the high-voltage wires or in the coil itself, and they need to be checked first.

High-voltage wires are tested by checking their resistance. To do this you need a regular multimeter.

Set the resistance measurement mode to 20 kOhm.

In our case, we check the third wire. If the device shows numbers within the range of 3.5 - 10 kOhm, then the wire resistance is considered normal, otherwise it changes.

Next we check the coil. For this you also need a multimeter.

We measure the resistance between 1 and 4 and 2 and 3 coil terminals. Readings of 10 kOhm, or around this figure, are considered standard.

Important. During testing, the tester should not show 1. This means that there is an open circuit in the circuit and the coil is faulty.

Next we check the resistance between each terminal and ground. In this case, on the contrary, the multimeter should show 1 (infinity).

If resistance is shown at one of the terminals, it means that its insulation is damaged and it is connecting to ground. Accordingly, the required voltage will not be supplied to form a spark.

Next, we check the resistance between the central terminal of the ignition coil and the housing (ground). It should also be equal to infinity, i.e. 1.

Now it remains to check the resistance between the extreme terminals. To do this, set a different measurement range on the device - 200 Ohms.

A resistance of 2 ohms is considered normal (+-). There should be no break between the extreme terminals.

Next, check the condition of the contacts on the coil itself and on the wires; they tend to oxidize over time, especially if your region of residence has a humid climate.

If the error remains in cylinder 3, but the coil and high-voltage wires are in good condition, we check the spark plug.

The easiest option is to remove the spark plug from the working cylinder and swap them.

If the error then transferred to another cylinder, then most likely the issue is in the spark plug.

If nothing has changed and the error remains, then check the injectors.

In this case, you also need a multimeter. Disconnect the wires from the injector, in our case from cylinder 3, and measure the resistance, it should be about 13 ohms.

Next, check the injector power supply circuit. Also, the injector may become clogged and not supply the required amount of fuel, which can cause misfires. Therefore, you will have to clean the injectors.

If after all the above checks the misfires have not disappeared, you need to check the valve clearances.

How to check the spark of a Priora

Good evening everyone, dear friends, today I decided to touch on a sore subject on Priora and not only, namely the failure of spark plug coils

The Prioro engine uses individual Bosch coils, the price today is 450 g

Therefore, I suggest several ways to recognize a non-working coil (by the way, even diagnosticians at stations can’t always tell which coil is faulty and suggest the poke method)) of course, there is a device that checks the performance of the coil, but its price is about 300 USD

and not every diagnostician buys such a thing, thinking that when it will work out)

Let's start self-diagnosis, firstly, inspect the removed coil, the rubber part should be without cracks or tears (this is already a defect)

Also, the spring located inside the coil must be in the correct position

The easiest method is to wrap the coils with thermal tape.

but if this did not help, it means that some of them are definitely dead, after visually inspecting the coils with their full visual performance, we move on to auxiliary methods, namely a banal tester. Many people say that you can’t check the coil with a tester, but you can check it knowing only the initial readings) First, we check the internal resistance of the multimeter and its wires, so as not to make false measurements. To do this, set the switch to the 200 Ohm position and close the probes, mine is 0.3 Ohm

We call the primary winding of the coil; this winding is connected to pins 1 and 3 of the connector. The polarity of the connection does not affect this. The multimeter should show about 0.8 ohms

subtract its own error 0.8 - 0.3 = 0.5 Ohm - the norm. If there are no indications, then we check the quality of the connection of the probes to the coil contacts and the correctness of the connections (we need the outer terminals of the coil connector) and try to ensure better contact; if there are still no indications, then the primary winding is broken and the ICZ is faulty.

If everything is normal with the primary, check the secondary winding of the coil. To do this, move the multimeter switch to the 2000 kOhm position (or 2 MOhm), here the multimeter probes must be connected observing the polarity - red to the spring inside the rubber cap, black to the middle (2) pin of the connector. My working coil has a secondary winding resistance of 342 kOhm.

As for the 2nd coil, it is broken, to be completely sure, I removed the rubber cap, wiped it, knocked, but nothing helped - this coil is faulty and the cartoon shows infinity.

So we are not in a hurry to go to diagnosticians and give money for advice to check by replacing a new one)) first you can try your strength and intelligence)

Thank you all for your attention, good luck in life and on the drive))

The check light came on, the car started running, and after 3 km it stalled. Having opened the hood, I realized that the seal of the third cylinder had melted and leaked. I installed a new one. There is no spark in all cylinders.

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It is worth checking the fuses and ignition relays and the ECU. Is there an impulse to the injectors? If not, then the problem is with the crankshaft sensor or immobilizer. If so, then you need to check the connector and wires of the ignition coils, the ECU connector, and the problem may also be in the ECU itself.

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Even more useful tips in a convenient format

Many car enthusiasts have encountered the loss of spark on the 16-valve VAZ-2112 engine. What is this defect associated with? The first thing that suggests itself is the ignition. But, in this case, not everything is so simple, since the problem may lie deeper than it seems at first glance.

The video describes a situation when you lose a spark on the road and the car does not start:

Lost spark on VAZ 2112 injector 16 valves, reasons, diagnostics

In the VAZ 2110 car, injector errors appear quite often. You can see them on the on-board computer, but special tables are needed to decipher them. After all, the ECU produces errors in the form of codes that consist of the letter P and four numbers. Before you begin to solve the problem that has arisen, you should find out what problems there are in the VAZ car.

VAZ injector errors

Errors can relate to any part of the car:

What if the spark is lost?

If the engine does not start, but sounds are made indicating that the fuel pump is working, you should pay attention to the operation of the ignition. First of all, you should check whether the spark has disappeared on the wires with high resistance. To do this, it is necessary to use a spark gap, as well as a Hall sensor, which checks the presence of a magnetic field.

WHEN THE ARRESTER IS CONNECTED TO THE VAZ CAR, IT IS NECESSARY TO TURN THE ENGINE WITH THE STARTER. TYPICALLY, A SPARK WILL BE OBSERVED DURING THIS PROCESS. IF IT IS NOT, IT MEANS THERE IS NO BREAKDOWN TO GROUND OF THE WIRE. IT IS COMPLETELY POSSIBLE THAT THE SPARK HAS DISAPPEARED DUE TO A BREAKDOWN OF SOME WIRE. IF THERE IS NO SPARK ON SEVERAL WIRES AT THE SAME TIME, THEN THE CONTROLLER IS MOST LIKELY FALSE.

The possibility of breaking high-resistance wires is also not worth it. To do this, you can use a Hall Sensor, which helps measure the current in conductors, as well as their resistance. To check the operation of the ignition coils, you should pay attention to whether there are any error codes on the controller. If there is no spark after replacing the coil, then the controller is faulty.

Testing for spark

If there is an ignition coil on each of the engine cylinders, then testing for the presence of a spark occurs somewhat differently. In this case you will also need a Hall Sensor. If there is no spark on only one coil, then it should be replaced. But if it doesn't appear at all, then the problem is much more complicated. In this case, the problem may be due to a faulty controller or broken wiring.

To more easily test the presence of a spark discharge, it is advisable to use a Hall Sensor.

It must be brought to the faulty coil and turned on. If the arrow starts to rise, it means there is current in the wires.

Common mistakes during diagnostics

Most people, due to ignorance of the VAZ 2110 injector machine, make many mistakes in the process of identifying problems.

Let's look at some of them:

Hall sensor for system diagnostics

ANALOG HALL SENSOR CONVERTS THE FIELD INDUCTION INTO VOLTAGE.

And the value shown by him completely depends on the polarity of the field, as well as its strength.

Application

The Hall sensor is an integral part of many modern devices. Most often, of course, it is used to measure the voltage of a magnetic field. But it is also used during diagnostics of the ignition systems of VAZ and other cars. The main advantage is that the device has a non-contact effect. Therefore, there is no likelihood that a short circuit will appear in the circuit.

The engine won't start?

If, as a result of the check, it became clear that the spark hits the spark plugs, but the VAZ 2110 injector engine still does not start, then it is also necessary to diagnose it. The faults that cause this problem can be serious or not very serious.

At the same time, it is sometimes possible to cope with their solution without anyone’s help:

No spark on Priora 16 valve reasons

Before this I repaired the

I have a very strong feeling that the ECU has burned out.

the substitute will reveal it. but it seems to me that you still need to look where you dug (mass on the cylinder head).

Added after 6 minutes 55 seconds:

I changed the sensor, but now when the ignition is on, the fan spins constantly (even if you remove and put on the sensor chip

when cranking the starter the check does not go out

I have a very strong feeling that the ECU has burned out.

the substitute will reveal it. but it seems to me that you still need to look where you dug (mass on the cylinder head).

Added after 6 minutes 55 seconds:

I changed the sensor, but now when the ignition is on, the fan spins constantly (even if you remove and put on the sensor chip

when cranking the starter the check does not go out

The ECU bracket does not matter for January 5.1 and the like - the mass of the controller is not in the cabin, but on the distributor plug - 2 brown wires. It would be necessary to check when cranking with the starter on the MZ connector “+12V” whether it disappears, if not, then we go towards the DPKV wiring - it breaks inside the insulation in the area of the connector itself, it is replaced with a repair connector, the main thing is that if the controller is January 5.1.x, then do not confuse the polarity, If it's BOSCH, then we stick it in at random. When turning on the fan, to reduce the number of tricks, separate the mass of the fan relay from the main ECU. The DT could have been damaged during installation - using a short head, it’s easier to check with a multimeter - on one of the wires there should be +4.95..5.05V (orange), on the other there should be ground (green). It came across to me that the ground track in the controller burned out and as a result of the signals from the mass air flow sensor (ADC 4.98V), TPS, DT went off scale, but the car started!, having restored the track, everything worked as it should.

Added after 1 minute 25 seconds:

DPKV itself rings - about 500-600 Ohms, then ok.

Added after 4 minutes 12 seconds:

If the car has DC, then 1 of the wires can be connected to the mass of the DPS, DT, MAF (they are combined for some reason) - this, by the way, can be the reason for the car not starting when the SOD fan is running - these masses are combined by crimping and are then connected together with the ground of the fan relay – Apparently unnecessary leads are appearing.