The priority signal does not work, what could be the reason?

Hi all! I can’t say that car horn malfunctions occur very often and everywhere. But we cannot exclude a situation in which the signal does not work.

Car horns are safety features. Moreover, they must be present in all vehicles and be in good condition. This will allow you to give a timely signal to other road users, inform about the approach, and prevent collisions and other dangerous situations.

But at some point it happens that the sound signal located on the steering wheel suddenly stops working. It is necessary to address the issue of diagnostics as soon as possible, since it is dangerous to continue operating the car with a non-working horn.

Fuses and relays in Lada Priora, electrical diagrams

Lada Priora is another car in the line of new VAZ cars, which is gaining popularity among segments of the population. External similarities with the 10th model attract the attention of young people; the relatively low price is also a reason for purchase for most car enthusiasts. Along with the growth in popularity, the owners of this model are gaining experience in repair and maintenance, which is becoming more and more every year. If your Priora has electrical problems, do not rush to get upset; first, check the fuses and relays in your Lada Priora. These are the ones that will be discussed in this article.

Features of electrical equipment

The electrical circuit of a Lada Priora car includes several main elements - front and rear blocks, control panel blocks, as well as engine control systems. All these elements are connected to each other by special plugs located on the left under the center console, as well as above the mounting block. Only the control panel and engine control system harness is located in the heating system shaft, on the driver’s side. It should also be noted that the rear block and the device are connected to the control device via an electrical package, which is located inside the car.

The main systems that the electrical circuit includes:

heating unit, stove;
optics, including main headlights, dimensions, fog lights, turn signals;
windshield and rear window cleaning system, if provided for by the vehicle design;
car central locking;
electric windows.

Diagnostic tester with test lamp for checking electrical circuits

Fuse box in the passenger compartment of VAZ-2170, -2171, -2172

The fuse box in Priora is located at the bottom of the dashboard, on the left side of the steering wheel. To get to it, you need to open the cover, which is held on by three latches. Rotate each locking knob 90 degrees and pull the lid down and it will snap open.

Fuses in the interior mounting block

F1 (25 A) - radiator cooling fan . If your fan does not work, check its motor by applying 12 V directly to it from the battery. If the engine is working properly, then most likely the problem is in the wiring or connectors. Check the serviceability of relay K1.

The fan in the Priora usually turns on at a temperature of 105-110 degrees. Do not allow the engine to overheat, watch the arrow of the temperature sensor.

If the fan runs constantly and does not turn off, check the coolant temperature sensor located on the thermostat. If you remove the connector from the working sensor, the fan should turn on. Check the wiring to this temperature sensor, as well as the contacts of relay K1, move this relay, clean the contacts. If this is the case, replace it with a new relay.

F2 (25 A) - heated rear window . Check together with fuse F11 and relay K2. If the rear window does not fog up, the heating element threads may have broken. Inspect all the threads and if you find a break, seal it with special glue or varnish, which can be bought at car dealerships for 200-300 rubles. Check the connection contacts at the terminals to the heating elements at the edges of the glass, as well as the switch on the dashboard and the wiring from it to the rear window.

F3 (10 A) - high beam, right headlight . F4 (10 A) - high beam, left headlight . If the headlights do not shine on high beam, check the K7 relay and the headlight bulbs. The steering column switch, wiring or connectors may also be faulty.

F5 (10 A) - sound signal.

If the signal does not work when you press the steering wheel button, check relay K8. The signal itself is located under the radiator grille; you can get to it by removing the plastic casing from above. Check it by connecting the voltage to 12 V. If it doesn’t work, try turning the adjusting screw, or replace it with a new one.

F6 (7.5 A) - low beam, left headlight . F7 (7.5 A) - low beam, right headlight .
When replacing lamps, be careful; there are separate lamps for the low and high beams, so they can be easily confused. It is better not to install lamps in high-power headlights; the reflectors may melt and the desired effect will not be achieved. Most low beam headlight problems that cannot be corrected by conventional means can be related to the light control module (LCM). The low beam relay is only available in cars equipped with a light sensor, it is located in the place of relay K1; on most cars this relay is not in the mounting block; the low beam circuit goes through the MUS block. It happens that the tracks in the block burn out; if there are problems, it is better to replace it with a new one. If the windshield wipers turn on spontaneously when the low beam is not working correctly, the problem is most likely in the windshield wiper control unit, located in the center of the dashboard, the topmost block, next to the radio, is best reached from the glove compartment, or by hand through the removed console covers at the feet.

Why the signal on the VAZ 2114 does not work: we solve the problem

Sometimes a driver may encounter such a nuisance as a faulty signal on a VAZ 2114. Such a breakdown, of course, may not seem serious, but this is only at first glance.

Driving on a highway with a non-working sound alarm device can cause a serious accident - after all, the motorist will not be able (he simply will have nothing to do it with) to signal another driver or an inattentive pedestrian.

For this reason, you should treat a faulty sound signal very carefully and try to restore it as quickly as possible. We will talk about how to do this in this article.

Signal diagram

Before you start talking about finding and fixing this malfunction, you should first talk about the electrical circuit of the signal (after all, without knowing it, it will be difficult to carry out repair work).

Sound signal device VAZ 2114

It is immediately worth noting that the electrical circuit of the sound signal is quite simple and includes:

switch mounted on the steering column;
fuse;
electrical relay;
sound signal device;
connecting wires.

You can study the circuit diagram of the device in more detail using the following drawing:

troubleshooting

If you notice that the signal on the VAZ 2114 does not work, then the search for a breakdown should begin by checking the fuse. To do this, you will need to find fuse F7 in the common block and replace it with a new one, designed for the same amperage. If after this simple procedure the signal works, then the reason was precisely in the fuse. If not, then you should continue your search.

Replacement and repair of VAZ sound signal

The most common reason for the absence of a sound signal lies in the signals themselves. The reason is mechanical, moisture and oxidation lead to blocking of the sound membrane and, as a result, the absence of vibrations and sound effect. Sometimes you can restore functionality by spraying the signal with WD-40 or a similar composition.

On cars, where two signals are installed, as a rule, they are of different tones, low and high. If one signal fails, the second will not be able to fully provide the required power, and therefore requires replacement. As a rule, many signals are equipped with a tone adjustment screw, and if there are wheezing, grinding and other unwanted sound effects, you can use the adjustment to achieve a suitable sound. Also, with their help, you can move the “soured” membrane, thereby restoring the functionality of the signal.

Replacing the sound signal on a Priora

Welcome! Sound signal - is needed to attract the attention of road users or pedestrians, only all cars are equipped with a sound signal, and if for some reason it is not present, then the operation of the car is prohibited, this signal can ensure the safety of your car in any emergency situation, as well as protect your same life and if it suddenly fails or if you want to change it to a more powerful one, then this will be a very big plus for you, since you will be more noticeable on the road.

Note! To replace the sound signal, you will need: Wrenches, as well as a pair of screwdrivers!

Summary:

Where is the horn located? It is located behind the radiator grille, removing it without removing the front bumper is very inconvenient, but it can still be done, especially if you don’t have big hands and have a small key that you can get through on top of the bumper and unscrew the signal mounting nut, but to get through from above , to begin with, you will need to unscrew the six screws and pull the upper part of the bumper towards you, as shown in the small photo, in the large photo we indicated all the screws that need to be unscrewed, and the blue arrows show those screws that are located approximately in that area but they are behind frame and since they are not visible, we indicated them with blue arrows in the photo.

Block in the engine compartment

The power fuse box is located in the engine compartment under the hood, near the left strut support. To get to it, you need to open the lid by prying the latch.

1 (30 A) - engine control system circuit . If there are problems with the electronic control unit, short circuits or other malfunctions, this fuse may blow out.

2 (30 A) - vehicle on-board circuit . 3 (40 A) - vehicle on-board circuit .

4 (60 A) - generator circuit.

5 (50 A) - electric power steering circuit.

6 (60 A) - generator circuit.

In case of any problems, it is important not to panic, to think soberly and logically. The most important thing is to diagnose and establish the cause of the breakdown. If you don’t have enough experience or nerves, it’s easier to sign up at the nearest car service center if it has a competent electrician.

I hope this article will help you deal with electrical problems and quickly fix any Priora malfunctions. If you have any experience or information, please leave a comment below, useful information will be added to the article.

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Author Subject: The horn does not work. The relay works (clicks). Fixed it. there was a dead klaxon. (Read 26443 times)

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Good day, guys. Priora. The sound signal does not work, the fuse clicks, everything is fine. I thought it might have burned out, bought a new one, installed it - the fuse also clicks, but there is no sound, what could be the reason? Thanks in advance. The sound signal does not work; the relay clicks.

Communities › Lada Priora (Lada Priora Club) › Blog › Compressor signal on Priora

It all started a long time ago
when I bought a car.
I pressed the signal and heard the relay click, but there was no signal. He came to the electrician and charged me 300 rubles
, he said:
“So he’s not there!”
For another
300 rubles
, a two-contact horn was purchased from a nearby store, and it was
installed by the same electrician
in its original place without removing the bumper.
Less than a couple of months later it stopped buzzing after the rain
.
I was just visiting my father-in-law, rummaging through the bins of the garage, he gave me 2 horns from the Volga
, but they were such that pedestrians were not afraid, and other road users, sitting in their chariots, generally thought that this was
a Beethoven symphony.
I repeatedly complained to my wife about all this, as a result of which she
took pity and gave
me this wonderful
set
:

Relay

, four-pin one piece;
Compressor
, such a heavy one, one piece;
pipes
, one each,
turned out to be light and plastic, but seemed to be metal
;
Tee
, one piece;
Bolts, nuts, adapter angles
, for a 13 compressor, for 10 pipes, everything is as it should be,
diagram and hose...
Look at the hose again! Now on to the diagram:

My father-in-law suggested starting with a temporary circuit for testing. Looking at the instructions broke my eye

, but didn’t master contacts 85 and 86, so I found another one.

Everything is hooked up, the relay clicks in the cabin, but not outside. Double checked - it doesn't work

. We open the relay and see:

They didn't even solder it, I just threw it away. My father-in-law has a bunch of different relays in his garage. They took it from a classic, made of iron, with a coil inside. Temporary scheme:

We tried a five-contact relay, but for some reason the beep immediately goes off without pressing a button, why I didn’t understand, I didn’t bother to figure it out. Do you know why?

It works, it hums, everything is fine.
All that remains is installation, but a wire is needed. I went to the store. At first I was in a pet store, but there was no such hose there. Inner diameter 10 mm. Further on there is no plumbing store or any pipes. Construction market, they offered a hydraulic level, 220 rubles - the toad strangled
, and the diameter was 7 mm, there was no desire to tighten it.
I went for a walk further, I thought maybe there would be something in the car store. On the way, I came across a bicycle store and there they found me an EXACTLY the same
size hose for 50 rubles.

Well, now at least we can think about something. Slurped home

and then there was a tool store - I decided to stop by.
A guy in a store found a hydraulic level with an internal tube diameter of 10 mm, 7 meters for 140 rubles. I went outside and thought. I went back, paid, and picked it up. When I was at home, I realized that it was not 140, but 170! Here's a bug!
I didn’t even look at how much was written off and didn’t look at the receipt...
Bank transfer...

How to choose

Having decided to replace a relay or fuse in a Priora, take full responsibility for their selection and purchase. Under no circumstances should you buy cheap parts of unknown quality and origin.

It is better to give preference to original products produced by VAZ. As a last resort, buy relays or fuses from one of the well-known companies, such as Bosh, Hella or Tesla.

Replacing the sound signal on a Lada Vesta is a simple procedure that any owner should be able to perform. After all, driving without a properly working horn is a priori unsafe, and taking a car to a service station due to such a breakdown is an unreasonably large amount of time. However, replacement in the event of a malfunction is not the only need. Many people are simply not satisfied with the volume or tone of the sound signal, and they replace the standard Vesta components with alternative ones. Therefore, both of these paths need to be considered in more detail.

Installing LED tail lights on Priora

As for LED tail lights for Lada Priora cars, their prices are of course a little higher. Namely, a set of such lighting equipment can be purchased for around 3,200 rubles. As for installing a flashlight instead of a standard one, there is absolutely nothing unusual here.

It is necessary to disconnect the power connector for the flashlight, which is standard for all types of Priora, and then, after removing the old flashlight, install a new one with LED lights in its place. There is no need to perform any additional actions or manipulations. And the result of the work done can be seen in the photo below:

The Priora has three brake lights: two in the rear lights and an additional one installed in the spoiler. Their purpose is to warn drivers of cars moving behind about braking. Operating a vehicle with non-functioning brake lights is prohibited. If the lights on the Priora do not light up, you need to contact an auto electrician or fix the problem yourself. In the latter case, the driver needs to have a minimum set of tools to find and eliminate the causes of the malfunction.

Why the sound signal stopped working: where to look for the reason

Hi all! I can’t say that car horn malfunctions occur very often and everywhere. But we cannot exclude a situation in which the signal does not work.

How it works

Before looking for reasons and finding ways out of the current situation, it would be useful to understand the principle of operation and structure of the signal.

Structurally, the horn includes a fairly extensive list of elements, among which are:

anchor;
kernel;
core;
tungsten contacts;
frame;
capacitor;
relay;
activation button;
resonant disk;
membrane;
contact relays, etc.

When the driver presses a special button, current flows through the winding, thereby magnetizing the core and tightening the armature. Together with the anchor, the rod moves, bending the membrane.

Due to a special nut, the contact group opens and the electrical circuit breaks. Next, a number of horn elements return to their original position. At the same time, it closes the contacts again, and current flows to the winding. Opening occurs the moment the driver presses the button.

For the driver himself, everything is much simpler. He just presses a button and the machine emits a loud, characteristic signal.

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Similar systems, having different signals, but identical operating principles, are used:

on Niva;
on Gazelle;
VAZ 2110 cars;
VAZ 2107;
VAZ 2114;
Renault Logan;
Renault Sandero;
Lada Priora;
Daewoo Lanos;
Lada Kalina;
Chevrolet Lacetti;
Skoda Fabia, etc.

If the sound signal suddenly stops working, or shows obvious signs of malfunction, action should be taken immediately.

The motorist should know what the signs of problems are and the main reasons for the horn’s failure to emit warning sounds.

Symptoms of problems

How can you even determine that the horn is not working or has some kind of malfunction? It's actually extremely simple.

There are 2 main signs of problems with a car horn:

The signal doesn't work at all. When you press the button, the driver, like other road users, hear absolutely nothing. This is a clear indication that the system has failed;
The signal appears periodically. There is also a slightly different situation when the horn does not go off with every press. That is, they pressed it once, everything works, but when you try to honk again, the horn goes silent, there is no reaction to the press. Then the situation repeats itself.

There is nothing complicated or unusual in determining the nature of the malfunctions. But now we need to understand why this happens and where to look for the reasons.

Common causes of malfunctions

All that remains is to talk about why such situations arise and what the motorist himself needs to do in order to restore the functionality of the horn.

Since a car signal consists of a fairly large number of components, the reasons must be looked for in them. To do this, it is good to understand the device, design and principle of operation of the warning system.

Blown fuse. A trivial but common problem. The fuse is located in a special block. Look for information in the instruction manual. Sometimes simply replacing the fuse is enough;
Burnt out relay. Since the horn is powered through a fuse and a relay, the latter is also necessarily checked in the mounting block, and changed if the problem is with it;
Broken horn. If everything is fine with the relay and fuse, the problem may be in the device itself. To check, you can take the element and directly supply power through the battery. When the horn is working, the signal appears;
Short circuit. The place to start your search is with the safety socket. And then move along the chain;
The contact ring on the steering wheel is worn out. It will need to be replaced if necessary;
The clamping contacts on the column are worn out. A characteristic feature of domestic cars;
The contacts have oxidized. Check the contact group for rust or signs of oxidation;
The winding on the horn has burned out. The problem is solved by replacement;
Violation of electrical contact;
The cable on the steering wheel where there is an airbag is broken.