Tags: troit zmz 406
Comments 31
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Thanks to everyone for the diagnostics :) I managed to figure it out from a friend’s car by transferring sensors and found it. My mass air flow sensor was faulty, I didn’t even think about it...
I just had a head gasket burnt out and that's it. poured a candle
It seems to me that the wires to the injector are pierced somewhere. Or the injector itself is faulty
do you mean overheated? :) no! and it always heats up to operating temperature :)
IT WAS SUCH CRAP I CHANGED THE KNOCK SENSOR EVERYTHING WAS GOOD
I spent a long time searching for the cause. It turned out to be one of the two ignition coils. I bought one and changed it one by one. So I figured out that it was faulty.
DTOZH, which transmits information to the brain. I had this on a gazelle, the sensor showed 156 degrees! after the replacement everything became normal
So I turned it off and nothing changed. The coolest thing is that in cold weather it works clearly and quietly :))
Punch the new spark plugs, they don’t mean workers, buy NJK
My NGKs stood and worked and I installed new NGKs, compression everywhere 13
So the ZMZ doesn’t break? Only Chrysler is falling from all the cracks.
Colleague, we are black sheep here, with our worthless Chryslers, we have no time to discuss with you here, we need to sort through the sensors, one by one, until it works.
It was something similar, but the camshaft position sensor helped me. shaft (DPRV) - replaced with a new one - as if I got into a new car.
I turned off the sensor and it still works
You replace it with something that is known to work, I had this on 406 m, I suffered for a month because I just didn’t change it. It costs a penny
I, too, have a DMRV that was brain-fucked. At idle, everything is clear and starts with half a kick, but as soon as you press the gas, it starts to accelerate and generally picks up speed, without a single error.
It started up very poorly and when I turned it off the car started to work even worse :))
Remove the block from the air flow sensor, if it works smoothly, it means it is 100℅. It’s just that there was such a situation, the diagnosticians also shrug their shoulders and that’s it, but it doesn’t give an error.
You do understand that we can only guess, right? At least take video of the diagnostic readings.
Pump, regulator, temperature sensor. Try, when it starts, throw the chip off the DTOZH and wait a minute. If the work improves, he will. It may produce incorrect values and the controller will cut off the supply to the injectors to the leanest mixture.
Pump, fuel pressure sensor, reels, gasoline!
It’s easy to check the choke on the 406m: clamp the pipe that goes to the IAC from the throttle valve. If there is no choke, the engine will stall.
Thank you. I'll go try it now!
It's sucking air, maybe the hose has burst, so look there
checked, plugged in another plugged one, no difference:(((
Hello, what about the fuel pressure? Based on the symptoms, it looks like the pump can’t handle it while driving, but at idle it’s holding on for now.
So it doesn’t affect the speed, I fly calmly on it and sometimes it just happens that the ignition fires and that’s it
