We will connect the relay to the gap in the white and brown wires going from the microswitch to the central lock control unit. For 2 doors you will need two activators, the total cost is about rub. This means that there will be not 2, but 4 cords. Turn the ignition key and start the engine.
In addition to the electric drive, there are pneumatic designs of actuators. Operation of the central locking relay VAZ 2110
The current consumption of a conventional electric central locking drive can reach 5A at its peak. Single-wire central lock control circuit.
The task is to bring the wires into the car interior and connect them to the alarm unit.
It may even happen that the signal from the control unit will constantly be sent to the lock drive if the transistor is broken. The input sensors in the lock mechanism are microswitches and door limit switches.
Which processes them and sends them to the central unit.
When installing additional devices and using a second alarm channel, carefully study the table with permissible current loads. What we see in the diagram: S41 - limit switch located at the driver's door lock cylinder.
Central locking from Aliexpress. Installation in harmony with the grant.
Why the central locking on the VAZ-2112 does not work: the main reasons
Central locking, or “CZ” as it is briefly called, is a necessary and essential thing for any car, allowing the owner to open and close any door in the car with just one movement of the hand. However, it happens that this system ceases to function completely, or its individual parts do not work properly.
There are reasons why one or another part of the central lock may fail, and we will discuss each in detail below.
The central locking does not work: signs of malfunction and causes of their occurrence
It happens that when the central lock located on the driver's door is closed, no action occurs on the other doors. However, as soon as you move it a little, the doors immediately closed. It is immediately clear that the problem here is the presence of malfunctions in the central locking and several reasons contribute to this.
Among all the possible causes of malfunctions, all the most basic ones can be identified.
No contact in the drive
With such a malfunction, the contacts inside the control drive do not close the necessary contacts in time. This happens for several reasons:
- The adjustment of the rod that connects the lock button and the drive is done incorrectly. This reason contributes to the incorrect position of the rod and lack of contact with the electric drive.
- The button touches part of the casing and does not allow it to lower to the required depth to ensure contact of the traction with the electric drive. Despite the fact that the driver's door closes, no signal comes to the other doors.
Check the condition of the metal rod.
When such problems occur in the operation of the central locking, first of all you need to make sure that the button is lowered to the very end. If for some reason this does not happen, first inspect the casing for burrs, and then inspect the rod for its even and accurate position.
Fuse blown
If manipulations with the central locking rod do not bring any results, and they do not react in any way to either opening or locking, then first of all you need to check its electrical circuit, and specifically the fuse. Because on the central lock it can fail not only if a short circuit occurs in the circuit, but also if the slightest overload occurs.
The central locking fuse is indicated by a marker.
Overload occurs most often from insufficient position of the rods, as well as lubrication in them during winter operation of the car.
The central locking wires are broken
Broken wires are not the main reason, but one of the reasons for the failure of the central locking system. The main reason for this is the break in the wires in those places where they bear the greatest load. Such a place is definitely the passage of the corrugation from the side of the pillar and the driver's door. And since it is the driver’s door that is most often opened in any car, it receives most of the load.
- It is quite easy to identify such a malfunction; you just need to release one of the ends of the corrugation through which the wires pass into the door and pull one of the five central locking wires. As a rule, they are connected into one bundle, or go next to each other.
- After carrying out such manipulations, a wire that is torn or broken will easily give in among the general heap.
- If you are absolutely sure that a particular circuit is faulty, replacing it will not be difficult by inserting the required wire and further insulating it with electrical tape.
- When the wires are broken or torn in other places, the fault can only be found by testing the circuit with a multimeter.
Block burned out
Another reason why the central lock may fail is a burnout of the central locking unit. And in order to diagnose it, you need to use the above-mentioned multimeter and determine the presence of voltage at the contacts of the block.
This is what the immobilizer and central locking unit look like behind the instrument panel.
Please note that during diagnostics it is necessary to operate the lock in the driver's door so that impulses are sent from it to the main unit.
The central locking activator is faulty
And the last reason why the central locking refuses to work is the failure of the activator on the central drive. It can fail both for mechanical reasons, due to wear of rubbing parts, and due to the influence of external factors of moisture and corrosion.
If the activator itself breaks down, it is necessary to replace the electric drive with a new one and replace it. Pay attention to the fact that the drive must have five wires of different colors.
Cooling fan activation sensor in carburetor cars
If the “ten” is equipped with a carburetor-type engine, then to perform the function of warning about overheating of the power plant, a TM-108 thermobimetallic type cooling fan switching sensor is used, while in VAZ 2110 injectors these functions are assigned to the controller.
If the fan installation is “commanded” by the fan switching sensor, then its initiation is directly related to the temperature setting of this device. This information can be obtained by reading the labels on the product body.
When the temperature reaches critical values, the fan switch sensor must initiate operation of the fan unit. If this does not happen, you should look not only where the fan switch sensor is located, but also the malfunction of this control device.
The test for the functionality of the device is quite simple - you just need to short-circuit the contacts of the device and, if the fan unit works when it starts, then you need to replace the fan switch sensor with a working element.
If during this test the fan device does not turn on, then it is necessary to check the suitability of the fuse for further use and the serviceability of the supply wiring.
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The principle of operation of the central lock on the VAZ-2112
The central lock, which operates from the driver's door drive of the VAZ-2112, works as follows:
- The electric drive installed in the door is designed not only to control the lock, but also to issue a signal to the central locking unit. He, in turn, transmits commands to other doors to open and close the doors.
- In order for the driver's door drive to be so multifunctional, it has as many as five wires, unlike standard drives with two. Additional channels are intended for communication with the central locking control unit.
Drive for driver's and passenger's doors.
When the lock closes, the rod on the driver's door moves down, thereby closing certain contacts on the electric drive. From these actions, the central locking unit receives signals and transmits commands to the drives of all other door locks . Their discovery occurs in the same way.
Source: https://carfrance.ru/chto-delat-esli-ne-rabotaet-centralnyj-zamok-na-vaz-2112/
Why the VAZ-2110 central locking does not work and its repair
The well-known system, called central locking, as a rule, is not installed on all VAZ-2110 cars. Central locking is needed to simultaneously lock all car doors. This system is very convenient for the car owner. With one key you can control all doors. But, unfortunately, even such a system tends to break down. A large number of VAZ-2110 car owners face this. There are several reasons why the central locking may stop working or function incorrectly:
- Providing long or frequent pulses to control the opening or closing of doors.
- Central lock fuse is faulty.
- The plug connector has oxidized.
- Malfunction of the central locking control unit.
So, in order to understand the reason for the malfunction of the central locking, you first need to know what it consists of:
- electronic transistor control unit;
- actuators of the gearmotor (activator);
- limit switches;
- electrical wiring.
Limit switch malfunctions
The limit switch allows the control system to understand in what position (locked or unlocked) the door is currently located. With its help, a signal is sent to unlock and lock the VAZ-2110 central locking relay. In the event of destruction, a picture may be observed in which a signal to unlock is received, but a signal to lock is absent. To make repairs, you need to completely change the driver's door activator. These elements cannot be repaired, so in case of breakdowns, only complete replacement will help.
You begin to appreciate many things after they are gone. The same applies to the additional options of the VAZ 2110. Central locking (CL), for example, you can not notice as long as it works properly or you can do without it altogether. But you quickly get used to good things, don’t you? Therefore, when something that provides us with a comfortable ride fails, you immediately begin to rush around in search of answers “how to fix it.”
VAZ cars are not least good for their high maintainability. Whenever something happens to your iron horse, you can almost certainly solve the problem yourself without the help of specialists at a service station. “Ten” was no exception in this regard.
As for the central locking system specifically on Lada 110 cars, this is really a rich topic for discussion. Ignorance of elementary circuits and the operating principle of the unit can confuse many motorists. However, servicing the mechanism is quite simple. And given the enviable frequency of its failure, it turns out that knowing “how” is simply vital.
Problems with central locking: reasons
Today, incorrect operation of the actuator is not uncommon. This problem is encountered quite often by owners of VAZ-2110 cars. But, much to our surprise, this problem can actually be dealt with without the intrusion of third parties. There is no need to look for a highly qualified specialist in the field of car electronics repair to fix the breakdown; it is easy to do it yourself if you wish. The first reason why the central locking system may fail is the fuse. Before you start disassembling the interior of the car, in order to understand the breakdown, you need to check the fuse. The second possible reason is that there is no contact in the drive. This is perhaps a common problem among central locking mechanisms. Another aspect of the malfunction can be broken wires. Also, the central locking system sometimes fails due to the control unit, which for one reason or another burns out. And finally, the reason why the central locking failed is a malfunction of the activator. The most important task of the owner of a VAZ-2110 car is to look for a breakdown of the central lock along the chain, starting with the fuse and ending with the control unit (CU).
Sensors in the central locking also often fail. Replacing them is quite easy. Every car owner can do this independently. Since the car alarm is often closely connected with the lock, it is worth starting the check with this element. First you need to open and close the lock of the front left door using the key. If the central locking system works, it means that the alarm system has failed. If they are completely absent from the car, then you must immediately begin checking the entire lock system.
It is worth knowing that one of the main reasons for the lock mechanism to malfunction is a device called an activator. It is installed in the front doors of the car. Its main function is to send an electrical signal to all doors.
Main unit
The main block with fuses and relays is located in the cabin, on the left side, under the control panel. To access, press the latch switch.
Photo - diagram Option 1
Scheme Option 2
Scheme Option 3
Description of fuses
F1 | 5A Lamps for license plate lights. Instrument lighting lamps. Side light indicator lamp. Trunk light. Left side marker lamps |
F2 | 7.5A Left headlight (low beam) |
F3 | 10A Left headlight (high beam) |
F4 | 10A Right fog lamp |
F5 | 30A Electric motors for glass door lifts |
F6 | 15A Portable lamp |
F7 | 20A Electric motor of the engine cooling system fan. Sound signal |
F8 | 20A Rear window heating element. Relay (contacts) for turning on the heated rear window |
F9 | 20A Recirculation valve. Windshield, rear window and headlight cleaners and washers. Relay (coil) for turning on the rear window heating |
F10 | 20A Reserve |
F11 | 5A Starboard side marker lamps |
F12 | 7.5A Right headlight (low beam) |
F13 | 10A Right headlight (high beam). High beam warning lamp |
F14 | 10A Left fog lamp |
F15 | 20A Electric seat heating. Trunk lock lock |
F16 | 10A Relay - turn signal and hazard warning light switch (in hazard warning mode). Hazard warning lamp |
F17 | 7.5A Interior lighting lamp. Individual backlight lamp. Ignition switch illumination lamp. Stop lamps. Clock (or trip computer) |
F18 | 25A Glove box lighting lamp. Heater controller. Cigarette lighter. |
F19 | 10A Door locking. Relay for monitoring the health of brake light lamps and side lights. Direction indicators with warning lamps. Reversing lamps. Generator excitation winding. On-board control system display unit. Instrument cluster. Clock (or trip computer) |
F20 | 7.5A Rear fog lamps |
Fuse number 18 at 25A is responsible for the operation of the cigarette lighter.
The fog lamp fuse is installed separately in the instrument panel niche behind the main unit.
Relay purpose
- K1 - lamp health monitoring relay
- K2 - windshield wiper relay
- KZ - relay-breaker for direction indicators and hazard warning lights
- K4 - relay for low beam headlights
- K5 - headlight high beam relay
- K6 - additional relay
- K7 - rear window heating relay
- K8 - rear fog lamp relay
Electrical diagram of the block
Connection diagram
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The central locking of the VAZ-2110 does not work
If the situation is completely hopeless in repairing the central locking, then in this case you can try to purchase new mechanisms and install them yourself. In this way you can significantly save your own money.
Central lock installation:
- disconnect the battery and remove the door trim;
- dismantle window regulators;
- remove old activators.
After carrying out the above steps, new activators should be installed. In order for new drives to work correctly, a lot of space is needed for free movement of the rod. Activators must be mounted on a flat surface so as not to impede the operation of the gear shafts. Before installing the drive in the door, you need to bend the rod correctly so that the bend angle is minimal. After installing the above element, you need to lay wires from each door to the place where the control unit will be mounted. The wires must be laid at the bottom of the door so that they do not collide with any moving mechanisms of the doors or body. The next step is installing the block. The control unit must be placed either in the car door or behind the instrument panel so that intruders do not have access to it. The place where the control unit (CU) will be installed must be dry. After installing the control unit, the next step is connecting the central locking wiring, which comes with the system.
This kind of work can be carried out based on the instructions that come with the central lock. If this is difficult, you can contact an electrician or a specialized car service center for help.
Source: https://ladaautos.ru/vaz-2110/pochemu-ne-rabotaet-centralnyj-zamok-vaz-2110-i-ego-remont.html
Replacing the ignition switch on VAZ 2114 and 2115. Work in the evening
- A set of keys. It should include both regular keys and heads;
- Phillips and slotted screwdrivers;
- Pliers;
- Thin chisel;
- Hammer.
- You should start by removing the steering wheel. To do this, use a slotted screwdriver to pry up and remove the trim with the Lada inscription (in some cases Lada). This will give you access to the 4 screws securing the steering wheel cover. Unscrew all the screws and remove the cover;
- Lightly unscrew the nut securing the steering wheel. Don’t unscrew it completely right away;
- We tear the steering wheel off the splines. At the same time, you need to apply quite a lot of force to it. To avoid damage, leave a nut that is not completely unscrewed as a limiter;
- Next, you should completely unscrew the nut and remove the steering wheel from the car;
- Remove the plastic casing from the steering column using a Phillips screwdriver;
- The block and wires are disconnected from the ignition switch;
- Turn the key to position I, this will remove the lock from the groove, and you will not have any problems when removing the unit;
- To remove the ignition switch, you need to unscrew the bolts that secure it. This is where a little difficulty arises. For greater reliability and security, the bolt heads break off when installing the lock. To unscrew them, you need to use a thin chisel. It is placed on the head of the bolt and, applying light blows with a hammer, we unscrew the fastener. As soon as you manage to unscrew the bolt a little, finish the job using pliers. They do the same with the rest;
- The old castle is being removed. If desired, it can be restored;
- Reinstall the new or repaired lock. At the same time, be sure to make sure that the tongue blocking the steering wheel is in the correct position. Before installation, it should be recessed into the groove of the lock;
- Tighten the screws securing the lock. Their heads are designed like a kind of torque wrenches. As soon as the tightening reaches the required torque, the head simply breaks off. Thus, the bolts are disposable. They are usually sold together with a lock or in separate repair kits;
- A block with wires is connected to the contact group;
- All removed parts are reinstalled.
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What kind of malfunctions can there be?
When closing the lock on the door, no other actions are noted. But if you even slightly need to try to open it with the key, the door can open immediately. The presence of malfunctions is immediately visible here. The main ones can be highlighted. The central lock opens and closes itself on a VAZ - this is a normal state of affairs, but if it is faulty
The contact does not open in the central locking drive
The contacts do not open in a timely manner, and this occurs due to the following reasons:
- Traction control. Structurally, it works like this: the lock button and the drive are connected together. In this case, the rod acquires the wrong position, and there is no contact with the electric drive.
- When the button touches part of the casing. The element is not lowered to the required depth in order to contact the electric drive and the traction. There are no signals to other doors.
If there are problems of this kind, you need to make sure that the position of the button is fixed at the very end. If this is not observed, then it is worth checking the casing and making sure that there are no scuffs, only then pay attention to the ideal, even and accurate position of the rod.
Fuse failure
If the central locking on a VAZ does not work, then the cause of this circumstance may be a blown fuse. If the driver tried to open the door, but this did not lead to the desired result, then you need to look at how the electrical circuit works, and more specifically, the fuse. This element can quickly fail and the cause will be not only a short circuit, but also even the smallest load.
Fuse failure
The location of the thrust when operating a car in winter results in an overload on the engine elements.
Violation of the integrity of the central locking wires
If the central locking on a VAZ does not work, this may occur as a result of a broken section of wires. This is the main reason, since the fracture is observed in those places where the load on the node is greatest. This place is the passage of the corrugation from the side of the door and the counter. When opening a car door, the main part of the load occurs in this mechanism.
Violation of the integrity of the central locking wires
- It is easy to determine the location of the fault; you need to release one of the ends of the corrugated element in which the wires are concentrated inside the door, and then tighten one of the central locking wires. Their constructive connection is into a single bundle, and also next to each other.
- After doing some simple work, a damaged wire due to damage or interruption will be easy to repair.
- Once a fault within the circuit is confirmed, replacement will be easy. To do this, it is enough to cut out the faulty section and replace it with a new one; just twist the ends of the wires together and then insulate them.
- If it is difficult to visually determine where the wires are broken, you can always use a multimeter. The device will accurately indicate the location of the fault and the owner will carry out repairs without any problems.
When the central locking unit burns out
On the VAZ 2110 the buzzer stopped working, the reason for this may be a break in the central lock, or more specifically, a burnout of its separate unit. To carry out troubleshooting work, you need to use a multimeter. In this way, it will be possible to determine the presence of voltage at the contacts.
When the central locking unit burns out
During diagnostics, it is necessary for pulses to be sent to the main unit.
If the central locking activator malfunctions
The central locking on the VAZ does not work, and the reason for this may lie in a malfunction of the activator. This element is located on the central drive.
If the VAZ 2110 key activator malfunctions
During operation, parts rub against each other, which ultimately leads to wear. External factors such as high air humidity and rust are also unfavorable factors for the operation of the mechanism.
If a breakdown occurs, then the electric drive must be replaced with a new one; the main thing when choosing is to take into account that there are five different colors on the element.
Possible malfunctions of the locking system
If you need to find out how to find the main control unit with your own hands, then first of all you need to read the service book - it should indicate where the mechanism is located. As a rule, the unit is located under the center console, sometimes it can be hidden in the door itself. It's no secret that any device cannot work forever and over time, malfunctions may also appear in the operation of the central locking system. In practice, the device can often stop functioning due to the fact that the driver, using the remote control, transmits an extended or rapid signal to open or close the doors.
If the central locking stops working for this reason, then first of all you need to check the activators. When a long signal is given, it causes the system motor commutator to heat up, which may result in the brush holder melting. The latter may jam. Repair of the VAZ 2110 central lock in this case will consist of replacing this element.
To protect the electrical wiring, a safety device is used, located in the vehicle interior, directly behind the unit. If you have a VAZ 2110 central locking diagram, then you can find this element without any problems. If the central locking system does not function, you need to check this component. The central locking system will also need to be repaired if the plug with wiring, which is usually located at the driver’s feet, becomes oxidized.
As practice shows, sometimes the cause of a breakdown is the modular central locking unit. Its diagnostics consists of applying voltage to the contact connector directly from the battery. In gear activators, the gears are made of plastic; accordingly, they are subject to wear over time, so they will also need to be replaced. But the weakest point of the system is the solenoids - they break down most often.
About the operation of the central lock
Where is the central lock on the VAZ 2110 and how does it work? The purpose of the drive is not only for the lock, but also for transmitting a signal to the installed unit. Afterwards the commands are transmitted to other doors.
The multifunctional drive must have five wires, and additional contacts are needed to communicate with the car control. How to connect the central locking on a VAZ 2110, just use a simple diagram.
Source: https://vaz-2110.ru/elektrika-i-provodka/na-vaz-2110-ne-rabotaet-tsentralnyj-zamok-prichiny-i-sposoby-resheniya-problemy.html
Relay and fuse diagram for VAZ 2110
The mounting block, in which the main fuses and relays are located, is in the cabin. Its location is to the left of the driver, below the dashboard, like other cars from this manufacturer. Relays are traditionally designated on the diagram by the letter K, and fuses by F. There are 8 fuse elements in the main block:
Relay no. | Purpose |
K1 | Lamp condition |
K2 | Front glass cleaner |
K3 | Relay-breaker for direction indicators and hazard warning lights |
K4 | Low beam |
K5 | Turning on the high beams |
K6 | Additional starter relay |
K7 | Heated rear window |
K8 | Rear fog light |
As for fuses, there are 20 of them:
Fuse no. | Current (amps) | Description of fuses |
F1 | 5 | License plate lamps. Instrument lighting lamps. Indicator lamp. Trunk light. Left side lamp |
F2 | 7,5 | Near left headlight |
F3 | 10 | Far left headlight |
F4 | 10 | Right fog light |
F5 | 30 | Door window motors |
F6 | 15 | Portable lamp or socket |
F7 | 20 | Engine cooling fan motor. Sound signal |
F8 | 20 | Heated rear window. Turning on the heated rear window |
F9 | 20 | Recirculation valve. Windshield and headlight cleaners and washers. Rear window heating coil |
F10 | 20 | Reserve |
F11 | 5 | Right side light |
F12 | 7,5 | Right low beam |
F13 | 10 | Right high beam. High beam warning lamp |
F14 | 10 | Left fog light |
F15 | 20 | Electrically heated seats. Trunk lock lock |
F16 | 10 | Relay-breaker for direction indicators and hazard warning lights (in hazard warning mode). Hazard warning lamp |
F17 | 7,5 | Interior lighting. Individual lighting. Illuminated ignition switch. Brake light bulbs. Clock or trip computer |
F18 | 25 | Glove compartment lighting. Heater controller. Cigarette lighter. |
F19 | 10 | Locking door locks. Relay for monitoring the health of brake light lamps and side lights. Direction indicators with warning lamps. Reversing light. Generator excitation winding. On-board control system display unit. Instrument cluster. Clock or trip computer |
F20 | 7,5 | Rear fog light |
Main unit
The main mounting block is located near the driver's seat on the front panel, to the left of it. The niche is closed by a plastic lid with a shutter above it in the shape of a button - to open it you need to press it. Under the cover there are fuses, numbered in the diagram from F1 to F20 - they are responsible for all vehicle control elements, except for those placed in an additional block (there are three of them). The power of the fuses is different. There are also eight relays responsible for the main elements of the car control power circuit.
Console additional mounting block
You can find it inside the center console. It is located behind a plastic cover attached with screws, to the left of the front passenger seat. The block contains three relays and three fuses. In particular:
- Fan motor relay;
- Ignition relay;
- Fuel pump motor relay;
- Engine ECU and ignition module fuse;
- Fuse for electronic elements of the fuel supply system;
- Fuse for the electrical circuit of the speed and oxygen sensors, as well as the air flow meter and the canister purge valve.
The power of all fuses is rated at 15 Amps.
Mounting block connection diagram
Numbering of plugs in the connecting blocks of the mounting block and the colors of the wires connected to them
In the diagram, the letters indicate the following colors:
- B - white;
- Ch - black;
- F - yellow;
- O - orange;
- G - blue;
- P - pink;
- Z - green;
- C - gray;
- K - brown;
- P - red.
If the letters are together, then wires of two colors must be connected to the plug.
Changes in switching and layout of mounting blocks
The most important innovation in the VAZ 2110 fuse box from old to new models affected the location of the fog lamp fuse. In the first modifications, this device was located behind the block, and not inside it, and was supported by a bundle of wires, without being equipped with a board. Over time, the designers provided a special board for it, which was still located outside the main unit, but was placed to the left of the console. Only ten years later did it find a place among the other fuses.
Blocks with different layouts differ in numbering. The first models with 6 relays have the number 2110-3722010, while those equipped with 7 devices were marked 2110-3722010-08, and the most modern ones - 2110-3722010-01. Modifications that do not have relay legs for turning on the front lighting are marked as 21110-3722010-12. Also, the manufacturer produces units equipped with legs, but not relay K1, which can be either with or without jumpers - in both cases, independent installation of the device or jumpers instead of it is allowed.
Table of circuits protected by fuses on the VAZ 2110
The table shows all the circuits located in the main mounting block.
Why the central locking on the VAZ-2112 does not work: the main reasons
Central locking, or “CZ” as it is briefly called, is a necessary and essential thing for any car, allowing the owner to open and close any door in the car with just one movement of the hand. However, it happens that this system ceases to function completely, or its individual parts do not work properly.
There are reasons why one or another part of the central lock may fail, and we will discuss each in detail below.
The central locking does not work: signs of malfunction and causes of their occurrence
It happens that when the central lock located on the driver's door is closed, no action occurs on the other doors. However, as soon as you move it a little, the doors immediately closed. It is immediately clear that the problem here is the presence of malfunctions in the central locking and several reasons contribute to this.
Among all the possible causes of malfunctions, all the most basic ones can be identified.
No contact in the drive
With such a malfunction, the contacts inside the control drive do not close the necessary contacts in time. This happens for several reasons:
- The adjustment of the rod that connects the lock button and the drive is done incorrectly. This reason contributes to the incorrect position of the rod and lack of contact with the electric drive.
- The button touches part of the casing and does not allow it to lower to the required depth to ensure contact of the traction with the electric drive. Despite the fact that the driver's door closes, no signal comes to the other doors.
Check the condition of the metal rod.
When such problems occur in the operation of the central locking, first of all you need to make sure that the button is lowered to the very end. If for some reason this does not happen, first inspect the casing for burrs, and then inspect the rod for its even and accurate position.
Fuse blown
If manipulations with the central locking rod do not bring any results, and they do not react in any way to either opening or locking, then first of all you need to check its electrical circuit, and specifically the fuse. Because on the central lock it can fail not only if a short circuit occurs in the circuit, but also if the slightest overload occurs.
The central locking fuse is indicated by a marker.
Overload occurs most often from insufficient position of the rods, as well as lubrication in them during winter operation of the car.
The central locking wires are broken
Broken wires are not the main reason, but one of the reasons for the failure of the central locking system. The main reason for this is the break in the wires in those places where they bear the greatest load. Such a place is definitely the passage of the corrugation from the side of the pillar and the driver's door. And since it is the driver’s door that is most often opened in any car, it receives most of the load.
- It is quite easy to identify such a malfunction; you just need to release one of the ends of the corrugation through which the wires pass into the door and pull one of the five central locking wires. As a rule, they are connected into one bundle, or go next to each other.
- After carrying out such manipulations, a wire that is torn or broken will easily give in among the general heap.
- If you are absolutely sure that a particular circuit is faulty, replacing it will not be difficult by inserting the required wire and further insulating it with electrical tape.
- When the wires are broken or torn in other places, the fault can only be found by testing the circuit with a multimeter.
Block burned out
Another reason why the central lock may fail is a burnout of the central locking unit. And in order to diagnose it, you need to use the above-mentioned multimeter and determine the presence of voltage at the contacts of the block.
This is what the immobilizer and central locking unit look like behind the instrument panel.
Please note that during diagnostics it is necessary to operate the lock in the driver's door so that impulses are sent from it to the main unit.
The central locking activator is faulty
And the last reason why the central locking refuses to work is the failure of the activator on the central drive. It can fail both for mechanical reasons, due to wear of rubbing parts, and due to the influence of external factors of moisture and corrosion.
If the activator itself breaks down, it is necessary to replace the electric drive with a new one and replace it. Pay attention to the fact that the drive must have five wires of different colors.
Let's make the alarm system and central locking together
Any modern alarm unit is equipped with two relays connected to the central locking control unit. One relay is opening, the second is locking, and the circuit in the general case looks like this:
Control of central locking by supply of “mass”
In our case, the green and white cords coming from the signaling unit will be required, as indicated in the diagram. However, they will not be the only ones needed. We will connect the relay contacts to breaks in the standard wiring. This means there will be not 2, but 4 cords.
The cause of the malfunction of the central locking VAZ 2110
How quickly a person gets used to everything good. It would seem like a central lock
, such a small thing, but to what extent...
Operation of the central locking relay VAZ 2110
This relay can be used in any car, the advantages are ease of installation, as well as low cost of components.
Connection diagram for VAZ central locker
Take another look at the diagram published in the first chapter. We will connect the relay to the gap in the white and brown wires going from the microswitch to the central lock control unit. And it is obvious that it is easier to break these wires near the 8-pin connector. The same one shown at the beginning.
To avoid any questions, we will show you what should happen as a result:
Connection diagram, central lock VAZ
The common contacts are connected to the wires coming out of the microphone. The white cord continues with the brown wire coming from the door, and so on. Normally closed contacts are also used, along with normally open ones. These are the features of connecting to the VAZ central locking system.
An approximate sequence of actions performed by the installer:
- Make and lay a 4-core cable running from the signaling unit to the 8-pin connector;
We have given this sequence to emphasize once again that the relays are switched on between the microphone and the central lock control unit. There is no need to connect any additional devices. As a result, the alarm system will be able to control the state of the locks.
Remember that installation is performed by removing the negative terminal from the battery.
All wires added to the car structure must be protected (use heat-resistant tubes or electrical tape). Twisting is not the worst method to connect two wires. But it's even better to use soldering.
An interesting nuance from practice
It would seem that if a person has experience working with electrical equipment, he can do everything according to the instructions given. As a result, if no mistakes are made, you may encounter an interesting phenomenon. Instead of closing, there will be a short-term locking followed by opening. And vice versa. What to do in this case?
The principle of operation of the central lock on the VAZ-2112
The central lock, which operates from the driver's door drive of the VAZ-2112, works as follows:
- The electric drive installed in the door is designed not only to control the lock, but also to issue a signal to the central locking unit. He, in turn, transmits commands to other doors to open and close the doors.
- In order for the driver's door drive to be so multifunctional, it has as many as five wires, unlike standard drives with two. Additional channels are intended for communication with the central locking control unit.
Drive for driver's and passenger's doors.
When the lock closes, the rod on the driver's door moves down, thereby closing certain contacts on the electric drive. From these actions, the central locking unit receives signals and transmits commands to the drives of all other door locks . Their discovery occurs in the same way.
Source: https://carfrance.ru/chto-delat-esli-ne-rabotaet-centralnyj-zamok-na-vaz-2112/
VAZ 2110: central locking and its adjustment
Central lock VAZ 2110
On VAZ 2110 models, central locking is not provided by the manufacturer in all cars. Its fundamental design feature is that it blocks the locks of all doors. It is enough to press the lock button on the driver's door of the car, and the same button unlocks the doors when you are inside the vehicle. On the VAZ 21102, the central lock can be replaced or adjusted on your own.
Central locking on cars of the tenth family
The main function of the device is clear from the name: it is used to unlock and lock all car door locks at the same time. The operation of this device can be carried out both in conjunction with a car alarm and without it. The basis of the device is the VAZ-2110 central locking unit, which is a small circuit containing several semiconductor elements and electromagnetic relays. Instead of the latter, not relays, but transistor power switches can be used.
Despite all the advantages of central lock control, you should not trust it completely, especially if certain sins have been observed. In case of minor failures, one or more locks may not close completely. The reason for this may be a malfunction of the electric motor, the gearbox included in its composition, or the control system. To carry out even minor repairs, you need to know the structure and operating principle of the central lock.
Basic operation of the central lock
- Unlocking is done by opening the driver's door lock with the key.
- The design provides for unlocking the remaining doors by passengers at their own discretion.
Central locking does not lock doors
- Each door of the vases is equipped with separately mounted gear motors, connected to the locking rods.
- The gearbox consists of a direct current electric motor, and the excitation is produced by permanent magnets driving rack gears.
- The gearmotor design has a switch on the driver's side that is activated when the locking latch is pressed or the key is turned in the door lock.
- When the contacts of the switch are closed, the signal is sent to the electronic control unit and all gear motors located in the doors are switched on.
- They activate the rods, which in turn use levers to lock/unlock the doors.
- The design of the control unit provides for automatic unlocking of all door locks during a traffic accident (impact on an obstacle).
Causes of failure and their correction
If the central locking fails and does not work, you need to check:
Note: a failed control unit and gear motors cannot be repaired, so they must be replaced with new units.
- If the central locking breaks down, it must be repaired immediately.
- It is not difficult to identify the cause of its failure, and in many cases it will not be difficult to carry out repairs yourself.
- If reasons of a more constructive nature are identified, it is necessary to replace its assembled parts.
The complete central locking structure consists of:
- activator – electric drive;
- electrical wire terminals;
- drive rods.
Connecting the central lock
Lock failure is most often due to failure of small parts. The electric drive is installed from various suppliers. Parts may have slight differences in the applied forces and design features. But the work they produce does not make much difference.
Method of driving the activator into operation of the central locking
Identifying the reasons why the central locking does not work must begin with the activator. Activator design:
- five power supply wires are connected to it;
- there is a boot on top, this can be seen when the top cover is removed;
- the electric motor is connected to the power supply by two wires;
- Three wires go to the end chips;
- a gear is mounted on the motor shaft;
- There is a rod shank.
Note: for safe operation of the rod or to protect the body from impacts of the rod when reaching extreme positions, shock-absorbing rubber inserts are installed.
- The operation of the activator must be checked by fixing it in place with the rod connected.
- Since an unsecured activator indicates incorrect operation, the rod will constantly spontaneously move in the opposite direction.
Central locking faults
Malfunctions in the lock can be caused by minor deformations of the door:
- light blows to the car body,
- heating metal in brightly sunlit parking areas,
- sudden cooling of the door body.
Central locking diagram
This can lead to spontaneous opening of the doors. When considering this case, it turns out that the activator rod is in the retracted position, the limit sensors show a borderline state (pressed or not). What happens next is:
- A command is sent to the control unit from the central locking, and the locks of the remaining doors are closed.
- A slight touch - the reverse switching command occurs, the locks open.
- An abnormal operation of the mechanism occurs and the rod thrust returns to open the doors.
To check this deficiency you need to be inside the vehicle:
- turn on the alarm;
- press the door lock button with your hand, thereby preventing the springing effect of the activator mechanisms.
- If the doors remain closed, it is necessary to adjust the activator and traction system.
When the central lock operates in one direction, it also moves in the other:
- It is necessary to check the fastening of the screw on the rod itself.
- A problem arises when opening/closing the lock: a grinding noise is heard, but the rod does not move.
- It is necessary to check the condition of the activator shaft gear and the teeth on the rod (they are made of plastic and parts of the gear or teeth on the rod may be damaged).
- The pin on which the step gear is located can break the landing hole (because of this, the gear warps, the activator jams, and the gear coupling grinds).
Note. Therefore, it is recommended to regularly check all plastic parts of the activator.
- The activator motor has a brass gear.
- It most often breaks plastic parts.
- In this case, the shaft gear runs idle.
If the central lock does not operate, the rod moves due to light hand pressure:
- If this happens, it means that the drive motor in the central locking has broken down.
The reason for this may be damage to the pole winding. When power is applied for more than 1 sec. the commutator heats up, which causes the plastic parts to melt. The springs installed on the brushes cause a connection. At the same time, the molten plastic mass is squeezed out, which causes the fuse to blow.
Note: cheap alarms and low air temperatures cause such damage.
The reason also lies in the wear of the collector plates:
- The operation of the central lock does not occur constantly, at intervals (this occurs due to thickened lubricant).
Central locking and its installation
- The plastic plate is squeezed out due to the pulse being received for a long time, which causes overheating of the collector.
It is necessary to check the operation of the central locking after carefully viewing the video and photos that are attached to this article. It is also helpful to familiarize yourself with the instructions for use and regulation. It is recommended to carefully read the materials on the design and testing of the central lock. Only after this can you start doing the work yourself. The price of a new device is not that high. A tested, adjusted central lock will never fail during its operation. You can safely leave your vehicle in the parking lot.
Source: https://masteravaza.ru/zamki/centralnyj-zamok-zamki/vaz-2110-centralnyj-zamok-571
The central locking in the car does not work
Central locking (CL) is a very convenient thing that allows you to lock or unlock all the car doors at once with a slight movement of your hand. However, sometimes this system does not work correctly or does not respond at all to turning a key or pressing a button. What could be the reasons for a central locking malfunction?
Often the central locking, especially on domestic cars VAZ-2110, VAZ-2114, VAZ-2115 and their derivatives, begins to act up. It manifests itself like this: when you close the driver's door with the key, the other doors do not respond. If you move the key a little, the central locking works. Why is this happening?
Contacts in the main drive do not close
The central locking, powered by the driver's door lock, functions as follows: an electric drive is installed in the specified door, which not only controls its lock, but also sends signals to the central locking unit. The block distributes corresponding signals to drives installed in other doors.
The control actuator in the driver's door has five wires
For these purposes, an actuator is installed in the driver's door not with two, as usual, wires, but with five. Via additional wires, the drive “communicates” with the central locking unit. When the lock is locked, the driver's door control rod lowers and closes certain contacts inside its housing. The central locking unit receives voltage and gives a command to the lock drives of other doors to close. The same thing happens when opening, only the voltage flows through other wires and through other contacts, making it clear to the central locking unit that it needs to send a command to unlock the door locks.
In this case, the contacts inside the control drive may not always close at the right time. For example, this may occur due to improper adjustment of the linkage that connects the lock button on the door and the electric drive itself. That is, the button may already rest against the casing, preventing the rod from lowering further, but the contacts in the drive have not yet closed. Accordingly, it seems that the lock is locked (it may actually be locked on the driver’s door), but the other doors will not lock, since the rod needs to be lowered another couple of millimeters.
The same phenomenon occasionally occurs on the VAZ-2110, when the button gets pinched against the door trim and also prevents the rod from descending to the required depth. The most important “trick” is that this lowering may be enough for the mechanical lock to lock and it seems that the door is locked, and accordingly thoughts come about a malfunction of the entire central locking system. This is wrong.
When the central locking behaves this way, first of all you should make sure that the button is lowered all the way. To do this, with the door open, click the lock latch two clicks, simulating a closed door, turn the key and try to lower the button with your hand. If the central locking works, then you need to release the lock button from its tight contact with the door trim or adjust the linkage from it to the control drive.
Central locking fuse blown
If the central locking still does not respond to locking and unlocking the driver's door, then the problem is most likely electrical. The simplest reason is a blown fuse. Moreover, in the case of a central lock, it can burn out not only from a short circuit, but also from a normal overload. This happens when it is too difficult for the drives to move the lock rods, for example, due to improper adjustment of the rods or congealed lubricant in the lock. frozen locks using the key fob .
Broken central locking wires
Another reason why the central lock may not work completely or partially is a broken wire. Moreover, the wires break, as a rule, in those places where they are subject to bending loads - the entrance from the body pillar to the door. The driver's door is the most frequently opened door in any car, and the control drive is located there. This means that it is enough to break at least one wire that enters it from the rack and relates to the central lock, and the entire locking system may begin to work incorrectly.
Schematic diagram of the electrical system of the central locking system
It is quite easy to determine this malfunction. You need to carefully remove one of the ends of the rubber corrugation along which the wires enter the door, and pull the necessary wires towards you. Which wires are responsible for the central locking can be found out from the car's electrical diagram. If this information is not available, you can pull all the wires separately.
The point of such a check is that the broken wire will be pulled out of the common harness. Here you can also pull out the other end to connect them and thus repair the central lock. You can connect the wires by twisting them, or you can use male-female terminals
.
Naturally, any such connection will need to be wrapped with electrical tape
.
Wires can be broken in other places, but this is rare. If this does happen, you need to use a multimeter to call the entire electrical network of the central locking system and find a break. This requires some knowledge of automotive electrical engineering and the ability to use a multimeter.
Central locking unit burned out
Another reason why the central locking may not work is the combustion of the central locking unit. To diagnose it, you also need to use a multimeter and determine the presence of voltage on the contacts to which the drives of other doors are connected. The control drive in the driver's door must at this time supply current to the corresponding contacts of the unit (the lock must be unlocked or locked with a key).
The central locking activator is faulty
And finally, the reason for the central locking failure may be in the control drive itself (they are also called activators), or more precisely, in its contact group. The contacts may oxidize or break off, and then the drive will not be able to send the appropriate signal to the unit - the other doors will not respond to turning the key in the driver's door lock.
In this case, you will need to replace the electric drive with a working one. Find out what drive is in your car and buy a similar one. If the drive is a regular common activator, then buy the same one. The most important thing is that it has five wires, because activators with two wires are responsible only for locking and unlocking the lock and do not send signals to the central locking unit.
Source: https://russia-avto.ru/remont/pochemu-ne-rabotaet/ne-rabotaet-centralnyj-zamok-v-avtomobile