✅ Chevrolet Niva revs float

RPM fluctuates in Niva Chevrolet

Chevrolet Niva I 2002 - present

When starting a cold engine, the speed fluctuates, and as it warms up, it evens out. Later, during overclocking, they do not reset immediately, sometimes they freeze. Throttle assembly?

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Yes, throttle body. Remove, rinse. Clean the idle air regulator. Assemble, install, check operation.

The idle speed control on the shnivy is not very reliable, maybe yours has already served its purpose. Buy a new one (the price seems to be around 500 rubles), but be sure to take a receipt, because you get new ones that are already bad (in this case you can exchange them).

We installed the 2nd new idle speed control (original) in the service, no changes. At startup, the error check light came on - low level DDPS 1, although a new throttle position sensor was also installed

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Design and principle of operation

The Chevy Niva fuel system uses a submersible fuel pump, which is based on a commutator motor with two permanent magnets on the stator.

Power is supplied to the pump through a relay, the control contact of which is connected to the engine control unit. The circuit is protected by a fuse, which prevents the electrical wiring from catching fire in the event of a short circuit.

The fuel pump relay is located inside the car under the glove compartment. The fuse box is located nearby.

Often, a fuel pump is not called the electric motor itself, but a module that includes:

A plastic case that performs a load-bearing function.
Coarse filter that retains coarse-grained contaminants.
The pressure regulator is a bypass valve that returns excess fuel to the tank.
A sensor and float that read information about the fuel level in the tank and transmit the data to the on-board computer.

The electric pump is installed below the gasoline level.
This ensures lubrication and cooling of its parts. If you run out of fuel completely and force the electric pump to run dry, it will quickly break down. The rotation of the pump impeller ensures pressure in the fuel line within 3.6-4 Bar. If this indicator is exceeded, the pressure regulator bypass valve is activated.

Gasoline enters the impeller through a mesh filter, which protects the assembly from large foreign particles. Fine contaminants do not harm the fuel pump.

Identify the faulty spark plug and remove deposits between the electrodes. Ash deposits.

Light brown deposits on Chevy Niva spark plugs, covering the central and side electrodes with a crust. Isolated from additives to oil or gasoline. A large number of them can lead to insulation of the spark plug electrodes, causing sparking at idle and interruptions during acceleration.

If excessive deposits form over a short period of time or low mileage, replace the valve guide seals to prevent oil from entering the combustion chamber. Rounded electrodes with a small amount of deposits on the working ends.

Normal color. Causes difficult starting in cold or wet weather and poor fuel economy. Replace the spark plugs with new ones of the same specifications.

The insulator may be cracked or chipped. This may damage the piston. Make sure that the octane number of gasoline matches the required one. Check the serviceability of the Niva Chevrolet knock sensor.

Reasons for unstable engine idling Niva Chevrolet

Spotted deposits. After proper adjustment, carbon deposits deposited in the combustion chamber begin to burn out and, at high engine speeds, come off the piston and stick to the spark plug insulator, causing occasional misfires in its operation.

Replace the spark plugs with new ones or clean the old ones. Mechanical damage. Damage can be caused by foreign objects getting into the combustion chamber, and if you use a spark plug that is too long, its electrodes can catch on the piston. This causes spark plug destruction, cylinder shutdown and can damage the piston.

Remove the foreign object from the cylinder and or replace the spark plug. Condition of the spark plugs The color of the spark plug may indicate a particular problem. If it has a yellowish-grayish color, this is considered normal, which means that the conditions under which they operate are satisfactory. Dry soot deposits on the spark plugs indicate late ignition; the Chevrolet Niva is idling, indicating that there is an enriched fuel-air mixture. It is necessary to check the condition of the filter and the sensor that is responsible for the temperature of the coolant. The presence of oil deposits indicates that oil is entering the combustion chamber through the piston rings or valve guides.

In this case, it is necessary to repair the piston group and cylinder head. Melted electrodes and the presence of early ignition indicate that a spark is missing, and deposits get on the electrode from behind the combustion chamber.

You need to check the knock sensor, the condition of the distribution injectors, the fuel filter, and how the cooling system works. Otherwise, if the problem is not corrected, the engine will fail.

Main reasons

When starting, the engine can reach higher speeds to warm up faster. This manifests itself especially often in winter. But after some time, after reaching the minimum operating temperature, the electronic control unit is activated, which reduces the engine speed to normal. If this does not happen, then it is urgent to look for the reasons causing this problem.

Higher speeds indicate more intense engine operation, which can lead to a wide variety of consequences. Long-term operation may cause the engine temperature to rise significantly, resulting in thermal shock. This will cause problems in the operation of the cylinder block. In addition, most components will experience heavy wear and tear due to unstable engine operation and, as a result, accelerated wear. All this will affect the service life of the engine.

Therefore, it is necessary to immediately figure out what reason caused the increase in speed. There are several of them:

idle speed sensor
throttle sensor
Problems with throttle angle adjustment
failure of the engine temperature sensor
air entering through a damaged intake manifold
problems with the electronic control unit

Methods for solving the problem

Before proceeding directly to the process of solving the problem, you need to understand that diagnostics and repair of these components should be performed only with knowledge of the matter. Also, it is worth separately noting that for a carburetor and injection engine there will be different diagnostic methods, but the principle of the causes is the same.

So, it is worthwhile to consistently understand the diagnostic and repair work that will eliminate high idle speed.

IAC sensor

It is not often possible to find an idle air control sensor on carburetor engines. This is usually done using a quality and quantity screw. To normalize high idle speeds, you should not carry out the process cold. First, you should warm up the engine to operating temperature, and only then begin adjustments. If after making the adjustments the speed remains high, then the reason is different.

For an injection engine, the opposite is true; all adjustments are made by the IAC sensor. In order to correct the malfunction, it is worth checking the sensor with a multimeter, and then, if the element is faulty, replace it with a new one.

The wrong amount of air entering the combustion chamber can cause the ECU to over-idle. If the throttle position sensor is faulty, it must also be checked. This can be done with a multimeter or oscilloscope. If it is discovered that the TPS is faulty, it is worth replacing it.

Throttle valve

A stuck throttle can cause a large amount of air to enter the engine. This fact will force the electronic control unit to increase the amount of fuel injected to balance the mixture. This will increase the fuel consumption and accordingly.

In order to solve the problem, it is necessary to dismantle the unit and clean it using special means. If cleaning does not give the desired result, the throttle must be replaced, but you should be prepared that this will not be cheap.

Motor temperature sensor

A failure of the temperature sensor can lead to many problems. One of these will be an increase in idle speed. Typically, as practice shows, this sensor is the most vulnerable and most often fails because it is exposed to temperature changes.

First, it’s worth diagnosing the health of the unit. This can be done using a multimeter and an oscilloscope. If the unit is faulty, it should be replaced. After this, it is recommended to reset all ECU errors.

Collector

Often, due to the use of the vehicle, the intake manifold becomes deformed or the gasket wears out. Thus, an increase in idle speed may indicate that there is an air leak in the manifold. To treat the malfunction, you will have to dismantle the part, which is quite problematic, since almost the entire injection system and several components of other systems are attached to the manifold.

Problems with throttle valve travel.

These problems are similar to the failure of the throttle sensor and lead to the same consequences. Only the main problem here is not electronic - but contamination of the damper itself by oil vapors coming from the crankcase, combustion residues, or due to rare changes of the air filter. If there are traces of contamination, the damper must be cleaned. To do this, you need to completely remove the throttle assembly and either replace it if damaged or clean it using special products. It is important to remember that after cleaning, the throttle valve angle may be incorrectly set due to the so-called “memory effect” in the ECU. In this case, some models will require additional computer diagnostics.

Damage to the intake manifold.

The collector itself may also fail if the car has a sufficiently long service life. But more often the gasket fails. In this case, excess air is sucked in. To fix the problem, it is necessary to dismantle this part, as well as the units on which the injection elements are located. Before installing the gasket, it is necessary to thoroughly sand the surface of the manifold and clean it of traces of the old gasket. But it is important to remember that the occurrence of this problem is accompanied not only by increased idle speed. Damage to the gasket makes it difficult to start the engine and the speed fluctuates while driving.

Conclusion

Many car enthusiasts do not know the reasons for the high idle speed effect, much less how to eliminate it. So, of course, experts and car mechanics recommend contacting a car service straight away, but our man won’t stop until he tries it himself.

There are many reasons for the effect of increased speed, from faulty sensors to errors in the electronic control unit. You can also fix the problem at home, which is what owners of VAZs and other domestic cars do. But owners of foreign cars will have to contact a car service center, where repairs can amount to a considerable amount.

Idling on a Chevrolet Niva

First, let's try to understand what engine idle means - this is the engine speed when the gas pedal is released. The efficiency of the engine and its subsystems depends on this value. If there are no problems, the engine operation in this mode is smooth, the speed corresponds to the technical regulations of the car. But sometimes the idle starts to go wrong, as they say “float”. That is, the engine speed at idle sometimes increases on its own, sometimes it drops to almost zero and sometimes the car stalls. According to experts, almost all injection cars suffer from this disease. To prevent it, it is enough to carry out timely vehicle maintenance.

There are several reasons for floating. This may be a malfunction in the ignition system or in the fuel system. Or maybe one of the car’s sensors simply stopped working. Also, idle speed can be affected by a dirty air supply path to the engine. Either there is no contact between the wires or there is no ground. In this case, only unscheduled replacement of parts that are not suitable for further use will help.

But you can prevent your car from having this problem at all. According to the advice, regular preventive maintenance of cars completely prevents the problem with floating idle in the Chevrolet Niva. To do this, it is enough to carry out the following work approximately every 13,000-15,000 kilometers. Replacement of spark plugs and all filters. Check the functionality of the vehicle's crankcase ventilation system. It is also necessary to carry out diagnostic work to check the idle air regulator and, if necessary, clean it of dirt. Finally, it is necessary to measure the operating pressure in the fuel system. So, with timely control, you will never have problems related to the operation of the car. It is only important to remember that any node has its own resource, which exhausts itself over time. But it is better not to wait for the end of the part’s service life, but to replace it somewhat earlier than the end of its service life. And under no circumstances should you allow the vehicle to be operated with a part that has exhausted its service life.

And what’s good is that all this work can be done in the garage with your own hands. In some Chevrolet Niva models, the idle speed may sometimes freeze when changing gears. So, when you turn on neutral, the speed does not drop below 1200. The error must be looked for in the software of the car’s on-board computer. And only flashing it in a specialized service can help.

Interruptions in the operation of the Niva Chevrolet engine

If the interruptions intensify, repeat procedure sequentially. If, as a result of the measures taken, engine interruptions are not eliminated, contact a car service to diagnose the ignition system on a stand or diagnose the Chevrolet Niva engine with interruptions at idle and measure compression.

If the Engine stops running intermittently, diagnostics and replacement of the vacuum brake booster is required, see.

If the Engine continues to run intermittently, try spraying WD type fluid onto the outside of the hose. If the engine stops running intermittently even for a short period of time, try replacing the hose - there may be a rupture in it.

Chevrolet Niva Niagara › Logbook › The revs are floating

Strictly speaking, the problem is this: when the engine is warmed up to operating temperature, the idle speed periodically begins to increase (usually up to 1900-2000 rpm). After hanging for 30 seconds, the revolutions seem to return to normal and drop to 950 rpm, but not for long, after a while the situation repeats itself. Also, when changing gears while driving, the speed does not drop immediately, but after 2-3 seconds, and drops very slowly. Moreover, if you simply release the accelerator pedal and squeeze the clutch, the speed increases by about 200 rpm. I have been struggling with this problem since the moment of purchase and so far there is no result. After reading the forums, it became clear that this problem occurs quite often in different versions of Chevy Nivas. Today I cleaned the throttle assembly, checked the TPS, washed the IAC - the result was zero.

The only thing we could find was air leaking through the adsorber purge valve. The air leak has been corrected, the valve is in working order, the problem remains.

For some reason, there are already two of these valves installed. One of them is attached to the receiver, and the second hangs on wires in the area of the right headlight. Where and how it should connect is a mystery.

As a matter of fact, if anyone has encountered such problems, please share your experience

Auto-assistance

A problem such as the failure of one of the engine cylinders creates many problems for the driver. The engine “twitches”, loud pops are heard from the muffler, and fuel consumption increases significantly. The car's acceleration dynamics and maximum speed deteriorate sharply. This malfunction scares many; drivers do not know what to do or where to look for the cause of the malfunction. There may be several sources of such trouble, all of them are of varying degrees of complexity, but most of them can be eliminated independently.

If the Niva’s engine fails, it could be for the following reasons:

Problems in the ignition system;
Fuel supply interruptions;
Air leak into an idle cylinder;
Low compression.

What to do

First of all, you should determine the source of the problem, and then eliminate it. You can easily check the functionality of the ignition system even in the field, far from the garage or service points. If there are interruptions in only one of the cylinders, we can safely say that the main parts of this system, such as the ignition coil and the electronic control unit, are in working order. The source of the problem may be a spark plug or a high voltage wire.

You should unscrew the problematic spark plug and inspect it. Next, you can install it in the working cylinder and check the operation of the engine. If there are interruptions in it, you can safely throw away the candle, although in some cases, after thorough cleaning, it is possible to return it to service. High-voltage wires are checked in the same way.

Where else are problems hiding?

Also, engine malfunctions can occur due to air leaks. In older models of VAZ engines, such a problem in cylinder 4 arose due to a loose connection of the vacuum brake booster pipe. In a Chevrolet Niva, such a malfunction may occur in the injector. If the lower rubber o-ring comes out, air leaks cannot be avoided. Easily removed by replacing with a new ring.

It will be much worse for the engine if a decrease in compression in the cylinder is noticed. The reason for this phenomenon may be wear of the piston rings, or a loose valve fit. This can be determined using a compression gauge. If you pour about 20 grams of engine oil into the problem cylinder and measure the compression again, then when it appears, you can say that the piston rings have failed. When no change is observed, the valve is to blame. To fix this problem, you will have to disassemble the power unit.

Main reasons

Therefore, it is necessary to immediately figure out what reason caused the increase in speed. There are several of them:

idle speed sensor
throttle sensor
Problems with throttle angle adjustment
failure of the engine temperature sensor
air entering through a damaged intake manifold
problems with the electronic control unit

Diagnostics of DXX

Often, problems with the idle air control valve are confused with a breakdown of the throttle position sensor . A distinctive feature is that the “Check Engine” indicator on the dashboard lights up in the event of a failure of the throttle position sensor.

The following signs indicate a breakdown of the idle air regulator::

strongly floating speed when starting the car;
when the heater and headlights are turned on, the revolutions drop below 500 per minute;
If the car has not been driven for a long time when the ignition is turned on, the engine runs at low speeds without warming up.

If at least one point matches, it is necessary to check the DXX.

To check the functionality, measure the voltage supplied to the regulator :

The Chevrolet Niva is placed on a level surface and the parking brake is raised.
The terminals are removed from the IAC.
Using a multimeter, connect the connectors alternately.
Turn on the ignition and look at the tester values.
Normal voltage is considered to be 12 W. Indicators less than 12 indicate a low battery.
If there is no voltage, check all wiring for an open circuit.
Test the resistance at the IAC outputs one by one. In good condition it shows 53 ohms.

If the regulator is faulty, it is replaced with a new one.:

the car is put on the handbrake;
remove the negative terminal from the battery;
unscrew the nuts from the throttle studs without disconnecting the pipes;
remove the terminals from the idle speed regulator;
unscrew the screws securing the car sensor;
take out the device.

Damage to the intake manifold.

As can be seen from practice, there are a very large number of problems that can cause increased idle speed on a warm engine. Therefore, if there are doubts that self-repair will not bring the desired result, it is better to entrust the car to specialists who, with the help of professional equipment, will be able to quickly identify the defect and eliminate it.

“Floating” speed [Archive] - Arkhangelsk club of owners and lovers of the Chevrolet Niva car

The engine needs to be repaired with excess crankcase gases directly to the bulkhead.

Unstable idling niva chevrolet

I turned off the supply of crankcase gases going to the throttle to the throttle and everything seemed to be back to normal.

It was cured by replacing the throttle body, drove for about a kilometer, during which time the rpm never jumped. On

To prevent you from falling for a Chinese counterfeit, we publish here a link to the official website of Autoscanner.

I drove 10 km around the city and the problem seemed to go away. It looks like it was cutting off the supply of mixture to the cylinders. This may be a malfunction in the ignition system or in the fuel system.

This component most often fails because it is constantly exposed to high temperatures. Therefore, in some cases it is better to start looking for problems there.

It is also checked using a multimeter. After replacement, the ECU may need to be cleaned for errors. The collector itself may also fail if the car has a sufficiently long service life. But more often the gasket fails.

In this case, excess air is sucked in. To fix the problem, it is necessary to dismantle this part, as well as the units on which the injection elements are located. Before installing the gasket, it is necessary to thoroughly sand the surface of the manifold and clean it of traces of the old gasket. But it is important to remember that the occurrence of this problem is accompanied not only by increased idle speed.

Damage to the gasket makes it difficult to start the engine and the speed fluctuates while driving. As can be seen from practice, there are a very large number of problems that can cause increased idle speed on a warm engine. Therefore, if there are doubts that self-repair will not bring the desired result, it is better to entrust the car to specialists who, with the help of professional equipment, will be able to quickly identify the defect and eliminate it.

Questions Idling is floating Many drivers have encountered a situation where, when warming up the car after parking or standing in a traffic jam, the sound of the engine was unstable, the tochometer needle was constantly twitching, and it seemed that the Shevik was about to stall.

Below we will try to answer the question: The efficiency of the engine and its subsystems depends on this value. If there are no problems, the engine operation in this mode is smooth, the speed corresponds to the technical regulations of the car.

That is, the engine speed at idle sometimes increases on its own, sometimes it drops to almost zero and sometimes the car stalls. According to experts, almost all injection cars suffer from this disease.

To prevent it, it is enough to carry out timely vehicle maintenance. There are several reasons for floating. This may be a malfunction in the ignition system or in the fuel system.

Or maybe one of the car’s sensors simply stopped working. Also, idle speed can be affected by a dirty air supply path to the engine.

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Once at home I went to the tire service, everything is fine. Now I’m sitting waiting for the car and racking my brain about what kind of bell this could be, for no reason. Others, where to start, how to determine the cause? True, without replacing sensors.

It was cured by resetting the negative terminal for 15 minutes.

Try, maybe it will help Try, maybe it will help, or the sensor is faulty - buy another one from a different manufacturer if you have one: Unstable idle signals should be eliminated according to the following scheme: They went away with the onset of heat and began to appear again in September.

Diagnosticians advise flushing the IAC or replacing it. I already changed the DPDZ - it wasn’t about him. Neverhood According to the BC, he is not caught. Check only by replacing it with a previously working one.

We turn on the tester in the DC voltage measurement mode, and set the measurement limit to 2 Volts 2. We find in the sensor connector the yellow wire - the output closest to the windshield and the green wire - ground, the third one from the same edge. The color of the wires may not match, but this does not change the essence.

Turn on the ignition, connect the tester, take readings. If your budget allows, feel free to change it.

By the way, the same readings can be obtained without a tester, using the on-board computer, the group of parameters “voltage from sensors”, Udmv "from http: Yeah, and in the first cars there was no phase sensor..

For example, I don’t have one: Windy, you’re confusing the DPKV and the phase sensor... Even before the NG, the revolutions began to jump, that is, you’re driving - everything is normal, you squeeze the clutch at a traffic light, and the revolutions, instead of dropping by a thousand, creep for a few seconds and last for seconds , and then safely drop to normal idle.

Throttle sensor. Chevrolet Niva

What kind of problems were there with air leaks? Everything was decided by replacing it with CatAlex. Everything was decided by replacing it. Fuck it. Well, when braking, my revs fluctuate a little. But, again, only on gas.

I’ve already written somewhere about this here, but I’m not ready to replace it yet. It seems to me that the same nonsense is happening, but it seems that it came with the cold weather: It was precisely that “sometimes” that arose. Today I went to Arch, this never happened.

On the contrary, it stalled a couple of times when stopping at intersections.

When I returned, I refueled “to the fullest.” When you stop at an intersection, the revs just drop after 5 seconds...

Source: https://iaarus.ru/niva-shevrole/pochemu-plavayut-oboroty-na-niva-shevr.html

Niva Club - Idle speed is floating - injector.

I turned off the supply of crankcase gases going to the throttle to the throttle and everything seemed to be back to normal.

The engine does not hold idle speed well or stalls. The injector

Naturally, this takes into account external factors - speed, engine speed, temperature - and specified restrictions on the composition of exhaust gases. Also, the revs may fluctuate due to the vacuum tank, but most likely this is not the case. The same effect can be achieved by simply pressing the pedal for most of its travel.

The idle speed fluctuates and the engine does not run stably. what is the reason? Change sensor XX...

I start it up, it runs smoothly, but if I go for a drive, it starts to glitch, the speed stays and doesn’t drop until you turn it off and start it again. It is only important to remember that any node has its own resource, which exhausts itself over time.

Now I’m sitting waiting for the machine and racking my brain about what kind of bell this could be, for no reason.

These devices seem to increase the sensitivity of the pedal and nothing more. But the torque limit will not go away; the damper will open just as slowly and smoothly, depending on the software algorithm.

This is some cunning of the manufacturers of these devices.

Is it good or bad? On cars with carburetor engines, the driver, by pressing the accelerator pedal, practically controls the process of supplying the air-fuel mixture to the engine cylinders. Each movement of the pedal through a cable or lever mechanical drive is proportionally transmitted to the carburetor throttle valve.

Rotation of the throttle valve around its axis causes a change in the flow area of the diffuser. A change in the flow area leads to a change in the speed and volume of air flow passing through the diffuser.

The speed and volume of air flow directly determines the amount of fuel entering through the carburetor nozzles, and therefore the composition of the air-fuel mixture entering the engine cylinders. With the advent of direct fuel injection systems, control of the mixture formation process was transferred to electronics.

The driver has only one function left - controlling the position of the throttle valve, and therefore controlling the filling of the cylinders. Electronics, based on the position of the throttle valve and the amount of incoming air, controls the ignition timing and the amount of fuel supplied to the cylinders.

We are looking for the reason why the idle speed on the VAZ 21214 floats

The first thing I recommend paying attention to is the mass air flow sensor (MAF or flow meter). Read this article on how to check the mass air flow sensor.
The second “suspect” usually becomes the idle air regulator (IAC), if after checking the flow meter you do not find anything, check the IAC.
After this, inspect the wiring of the speed sensor (DS). Read how to check and replace the DS here.
The next sensor that can cause floating idle speed is the crankshaft position sensor (CPS). The sensor itself is unlikely to have failed; most likely the reason is in the wiring or chip. If you don’t find anything strange in the wiring, check the DPKV.
The throttle assembly can also often affect the idle speed, so it would be a good idea to check the TPS (throttle position sensor), as well as the throttle valve itself, it may need cleaning. How to clean the throttle valve I wrote here.
Plugs, high-voltage wires and the ignition module can cause problems with idle, so first check the high-voltage wires, and then the spark plugs.
Engine idle speed fluctuates often due to a faulty idle speed solenoid valve. To test this valve, remove power from it, then turn on the ignition and connect the power wire to the contact on the valve. In this case, you should hear a distinct click; if this does not happen, connect the wire to the contact that is connected to the “positive” terminal of the battery. Even if you do not hear a click, you can conclude that the valve is faulty. If there is a click, but the engine speed fluctuates as before, check its jet.

Among other things, check the condition of the air filter; it may need to be replaced. Make sure that the ignition system is working properly and that there are no air leaks.

If the tips and recommendations described above do not produce results or you are not sure that you can cope with such work, seek help from professionals; specialists will quickly and accurately determine the source of the malfunction and stabilize the floating idle speed of the engine.

Thank you for your attention, I will be glad if it helps someone. If you know other reasons or methods of verification, you can safely add to this article using the comment form. Until we meet again, take care of yourself and your car.

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Idling on a Chevrolet Niva

At the same time, the electronics takes into account a whole set of parameters: And in no case should you allow the vehicle to be operated with a part that has exhausted its service life. A universal device for diagnosing any car. In some Chevrolet Niva models, the idle speed may sometimes freeze when changing gears.

So, when the neutral is turned on, the speed does not drop below. The error must be looked for in the software of the car’s on-board computer.

And only flashing it in a specialized service can help. Do you still think that diagnosing a car is difficult? If you are reading these lines, it means you are interested in doing something in the car yourself and really saving money, because you already know that: Maybe someone has encountered such a problem.

I changed the throttle body and the throttle body and washed the throttle body. When moving in neutral, the revolutions do not drop, they stay in the area. You stop and the revolutions drop to When the fan is turned on, the revolutions also drop. Diagnostics show everything is normal. Did you put the throttle cable exactly in place?: It throttles on its own, yeah.

I had a Kalina - in Maymax there is such a street of Yunosti, a private sector, I drove along it with the clutch half depressed, the Kalina rows slowly, but I let the clutch slip and it digs, and so it goes, in general there are only meters of road there, well I dropped off the passenger and drove back half-stressed.

About 10 minutes later, I drove halfway and the clutch began to smell sharply. I turned it off, started it up five minutes later and drove off - I pressed the speed a little and immediately went higher, but the wheels didn’t move, somehow I got out of that damn road at those speeds.

Then the asphalt, acceleration - the revs also go up, but the car does not accelerate. I stopped on the side of the road to smoke and think about the situation. After about 10 minutes I start it up and the car drives as if nothing had happened.

This is exactly the same situation that happened a couple of weeks ago. I sinned on the IAC, but why does the speed only hold when coasting, and when stopping it returns to normal? I read somewhere that this kind of bullshit can also come from him. As a result, I bought a new IAC - it’s easier to replace.

I changed it, the problem did not go away. I reset the battery terminal again. But yesterday I went to the car market to buy oil and thought about buying a speed sensor at the same time. This morning everything is fine too. Also, the revs may fluctuate due to the vacuum tank, but most likely this is not the case.

I changed the DMRV and the result was 0.

I changed the speed sensor 0. I turned off the supply of crankcase gases going to the throttle to the throttle and everything seemed to be back to normal. The engine needs to be repaired with excess crankcase gases directly to the bulkhead. How old is the ShNiv, how long is the mileage? Diversant old air flow sensor was covered in oil inside!? Today, at a friend’s house, I looked at how the crankcase gases from the absorber are approaching the throttle in the opposite direction.

Unstable idling niva chevrolet

And today JackieChan caught fire and the revs at idle began to drop almost to , and even the oil light began to light up. I removed the terminal a couple of times - it helped, but for a few minutes, then it all happened again. I decided to put back the old IAC, because the new one was also weird at first, before the weather warmed up. If there are traces of contamination, the damper must be cleaned.

To do this, you need to completely remove the throttle assembly and either replace it if damaged or clean it using special products. In this case, some models will require additional computer diagnostics.

This component most often fails because it is constantly exposed to high temperatures. Therefore, in some cases it is better to start looking for problems there. It is also checked using a multimeter. After replacement, the ECU may need to be cleaned for errors.

The collector itself may also fail if the car has a sufficiently long service life. But more often the gasket fails. In this case, excess air is sucked in.

The speed in the field 21214 injector floats

Good day to all!
A small problem appeared: the idle speed began to float, somewhere in the range of 1000 - 1200 revolutions. I started looking for the reason. First of all, I tightened all the clamps of the pipes suitable for the throttle block to prevent air leaks. It didn’t help. I replaced the idle speed sensor, and since I had to remove the throttle unit, I washed it thoroughly with ABRO carburetor cleaner. But this also did not solve the problem. I decided to change the throttle position sensor. From the factory, the car had a TPS from the Arzamas manufacturer RICOR. I've already driven 78,000 km. Not bad for this sensor. I decided to install a contactless sensor produced in KALUGA. ALL! The problem has disappeared. The motor worked like new. I read about this sensor on the Internet. People praise. The plant guarantees 250,000 km. I also liked the work of the sensor. The idle speed is stable. The idle speed sensor (also manufactured in Kaluga) costs 690 rubles. Throttle position sensor (TPS) -810 rub. Total 1500 rub.

Name: Yaroslav Reg.: 03/21/2012 Threads / Messages: 3 / 8260 From: Taganrog Age: 28 Car: VAZ-21214-50-120 (06/01/2012), SHTAT UniComp 400L (firmware 3.3.1), VAZ-11173 2012, VAZ-21112 2006

Reg.: 03/05/2009 Messages: 22 From: Sevastopol Age: 40 Car: 21214, 2008

Reg.: 12/06/2004 Threads / Messages: 4031 / 23190 From: Moscow Age: 65 Car: 21214M, 2013

If the throttle valve cable is not tensioned at xx (check!), then the IAC is most likely to blame.

But the check does not light up for all errors - set the BC and look at the error codes. Without this, you still won’t figure it out and will wonder what other sensor to replace. As a result, saving on bookmakers will backfire.

Alexey aka ALER.

Reg.: 03/05/2009 Messages: 22 From: Sevastopol Age: 40 Car: 21214, 2008

Reg.: 05/05/2013 Messages: 102 From: Tambov Age: 49 Car: VAZ 21214 2007

Reg.: 04/15/2014 Messages: 6 From: Moscow Age: 36 Car: 21214, 1.7i, 2002 Euro-2

Good afternoon. This is the first time I’ve asked for help on a topic; before this I figured it out myself - thanks to the forum. I have been driving the field for 4 years now, and for all 4 years in cold weather (sometimes) after a long drive the idle drops after releasing the gas. Not step by step, but sharply almost to zero, sometimes it stalled. I was guilty of frosting the remote control, cleaning always helped or improved the situation, but when in warm weather my speed began to drop to 500 or less and the consumption subjectively increased to 16 liters in the city, I decided to put the squeeze on the problem. I drove around with the recreation center turned off, it seems everything is the same, although it’s difficult to judge. IAC, of course, also changed more than once, I don’t think it’s him. What annoys me is that I drove the car 60,000 km (155 thousand km mileage), I changed the DC when I bought it - the old one almost burned my car. But the mass air flow sensor still stands and how long it took me to get there is unknown. The voltage on it is 1.04V when igniting, it seems like it’s time to replace it, but for some reason I don’t believe that it’s throttling the revs. An important point - my DC knew the taste of antifreeze - the gasket broke in the cylinder, drove like a locomotive for six months, then capital, which means he also grabbed oil during break-in. How does it even work after that? The catalytic converter is knocked out, the compression was 11 11 10.5 11 last time. There is enough power, the only question is the idle failure after a long load. You can, of course, change everything at random, but the budget is limited. Came in today with a laptop and took “cardiograms”. It feels like DK has become lazy and has started to freeze. Can anyone estimate the DK sine wave? There are 3 pictures here – XX, 3 thousand. rpm, reset from 3 thousand. to XX. Here at the reset there is a suspicion that the DC is leaning the mixture. I don’t rule out leakage, I haven’t checked it yet, I’d like to hear advice from like-minded people. PS Sorry for writing a lot, but the whole picture is visible. Change the DC valve and/or mass air flow sensor? PPS I love my car - I won’t sell it to anyone))) Thank you!

Idle: (Air flow – 12-14kg/hour)

3000 rpm: Reset from 3000 rpm. to xx:

Pensioner

Specialist

We brought this device in today for diagnosis with the complaint “the engine runs in waves” I.e. The tachometer is in place, but there is uneven rotation. First of all, new spark plugs, wires, and checked the compression. Everything is okay. I didn't find any air leaks. I took out the forces, did the balancing - everything is ok here too.

According to the scanner, the readings: after starting everything is as if it were in the textbook, as soon as the lambda starts working and the SOP immediately begins to change in waves: from -20 to 5 degrees. pkv.

Factory firmware B120ER19

In which direction should I pick?

Sergo33

Guest

Expert

Rakso

Oscar

There was a similar case, but the sausage at XX (as if you were riding on a tram) began exactly at 90g.

after the fan was activated, it stopped for a couple of minutes.

Uoz also jumped, up to -19 degrees.

everything was checked, just like the pensioner

. rrx put a new one - the same eggs.

I noticed that if you raise the speed to 1000 or reduce the px steps to 28-30, everything returns to normal.

I consulted with some forum members and decided that it was hydraulics.

I'm not a mechanic and I didn't want to do anything with the engine, because... I was going to sell the stroller.

did it at about 1000 rpm. then I talked to Pasha - he sent me some medicine - the rpm is 800 and it doesn’t wobble))

To do this, the engine warms up to operating temperature. Then just check the sensor using a multimeter. If it malfunctions, you must replace it with a new one.

This component is responsible for the amount of air mixture entering the engine combustion chamber. If the sensor is not configured correctly, the fuel supersaturated with air will detonate more strongly, spinning the engine faster and increasing speed. The sensor can also be checked using a multimeter.

Niva Club - Idle speed is floating - injector.

I turned off the supply of crankcase gases going to the throttle to the throttle and everything seemed to be back to normal.

The engine does not hold idle speed well or stalls. The injector

The idle speed fluctuates and the engine does not run stably. what is the reason? Change sensor XX...

Now I’m sitting waiting for the machine and racking my brain about what kind of bell this could be, for no reason.

This is some cunning of the manufacturers of these devices.

How to lower a VAZ 2114 - Do-it-yourself car repair

Welcome friends to the DIY car repair website. One of the most common problems found on almost all cars is floating idle speed.

RPM fluctuates at idle

Such a minor (at first glance) malfunction is very annoying and can cause a lot of inconvenience on the road. For example, at an intersection, a car may stall at any moment when the speed decreases.

The driver, in turn, has to constantly press on the gas in order to keep the engine in good shape.

How is everything going?

When everything is fine, you start the car and wait for the engine to warm up. With all this, the tachometer needle is at the level of 2-2.5 thousand revolutions and drops evenly during warm-up to 800-900 rpm.

But it also happens differently. Immediately after starting the engine, or after some time, you notice that the engine speed is fluctuating. With all this, you can do nothing - the machine seems to live its own life.

The range of vibrations can be huge - from 500 to 1,500 rpm. Usually, after 5-10 minutes this problem goes away, but the next time everything repeats again and again.

In such a situation, you cannot remain idle - you must find out why the idle speed is floating. This is the only way to remove the problem and forget about it like a terrible dream.

Idle speed fluctuates, causes, malfunctions

Understand that there are a huge number of circumstances for unstable engine operation at idle. With all this, almost everything depends on the type of engine - carburetor, injection or diesel. Let's look at any of the options:

1. Let's start with Russian cars with a carburetor engine (for example, VAZ 2107 or VAZ 2109). So, why do the idle speeds fluctuate in our beloved “classics”.

There are several reasons:

The idle speed of the engine is incorrectly adjusted or it has gone astray during use. With all this, the setting shifted towards depletion of the fuel assembly (fuel-air mixture).

In this case, you just need to adjust the speed to 800-900 rpm, read the article on adjusting the carburetor yourself.

Speed jumps while idling VAZ 2114

The carburetor electric valve has failed. In this case, the motor will only work with the choke extended. If you remove the choke, the engine will immediately stall.

The jets or channels of the idle system are dirty. If this happens, then the fuel lacks air when it enters the engine. The problem is often solved by simply cleaning the nozzle.

The sucking of “extra” air into the carburetor system inevitably leads to a leaner consistency. As a result, the engine begins to stall and stall.

The following problems are also possible:

Excessive (low) gasoline level in the float chamber.
The air filter is clogged (here you can save yourself with an ordinary change).

2. In modern cars with an injection engine and electric fuel injection, such as the VAZ 2110-2115, no fewer circumstances can be highlighted. With all this, problems are often associated with the breakdown of one of the sensors.

What comes out? The electrical control unit tries to read information and does not receive it. As a result, malfunctions in the operation of the power unit occur, and instability in speed occurs.

But let's highlight all the main reasons. There are several of them:

Difficulties with spark plugs (poor quality, wear, contamination);
interruptions in the air supply (failure of the mass air flow sensor);
air intake from outside into the intake system;
damage (lack of) high-voltage wires;
failure of the XX regulator;
EGR sensor malfunction.

When the idle speed is floating, the first thing you need to do is check the idle speed control. In most cases, it is located next to another sensor that controls the throttle position. Checking is carried out using a multimeter.

If the sensor resistance is outside the normal spectrum (40-80 Ohms), then the possibility of IAC failure is high.

If everything is normal with the idle speed control, you can move on to the next “suspect” - the mass air flow sensor.

To check the device, you need to disconnect the connector from it and start the engine. In this case, the engine speed will be around 1,500 rpm. If the dynamics only improve while driving, then the mass air flow sensor is really faulty.

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The EGR valve is responsible for the movement of exhaust gases. The sensor's task is to return some of the gases back to the combustion chamber. This is necessary to ensure complete combustion of fuel and little harm from exhaust gases. In most cases, cleaning the valve seat is enough to solve the problem.

3. In diesel cars, a prerequisite for floating speed at idle may be the occurrence of corrosion on the moving blades in the power pump. As a result, they simply jam and stop managing their own function.

To prevent this from happening, you need to add at least a little motor oil to the fuel tank (about 200-250 g). This is enough to protect the iron elements with a thin layer of oil.

Now floating idle speeds will not cause you to panic, because you understand what causes them and what needs to be done. Fortunes on the roads and of course no breakdowns.

Source: https://avto-voshod.ru/ekspluatatsiya/kak-zanizit-vaz-2114.html

Idling on a Chevrolet Niva

So, when the neutral is turned on, the speed does not drop below. The error must be looked for in the software of the car’s on-board computer.

I changed the DMRV and the result was 0.

Unstable idling niva chevrolet

The collector itself may also fail if the car has a sufficiently long service life. But more often the gasket fails. In this case, excess air is sucked in.

Sources:

https://m.etlib.ru/qa/drosselnyj-uzel-35166 https://expertniva.ru/dvigatel/pochemu-na-nive-shevrole-voznikayut-povyshennye-oboroty-holostogo-hoda-na-progretom-dvigatele .html https://evrasia-today.ru/plavayut-oboroty-shevrole-niva/ https://diabloarea.ru/niva-shevrole/plavajut-oboroty-na-holostyh-niva-she.html https://diabloarea .ru/niva-shevrole/plavajut-oboroty-na-holostyh-niva-she.html

RPM fluctuates in Niva Chevrolet

Chevrolet Niva I 2002 - present

Design and principle of operation

Reasons for unstable engine idling Niva Chevrolet

Main reasons

Methods for solving the problem

IAC sensor

Throttle valve

Motor temperature sensor

Collector

Problems with throttle valve travel.

Damage to the intake manifold.

Conclusion

Idling on a Chevrolet Niva

Interruptions in the operation of the Niva Chevrolet engine

Chevrolet Niva Niagara › Logbook › The revs are floating

Auto-assistance

What to do

Where else are problems hiding?

Main reasons

Diagnostics of DXX

Damage to the intake manifold.

“Floating” speed [Archive] - Arkhangelsk club of owners and lovers of the Chevrolet Niva car

Unstable idling niva chevrolet

Throttle sensor. Chevrolet Niva

Niva Club - Idle speed is floating - injector.

The engine does not hold idle speed well or stalls. The injector

We are looking for the reason why the idle speed on the VAZ 21214 floats

Idling on a Chevrolet Niva

Unstable idling niva chevrolet

The speed in the field 21214 injector floats

Pensioner

Specialist

Sergo33

Guest

Expert

Rakso

Oscar

Niva Club - Idle speed is floating - injector.

The engine does not hold idle speed well or stalls. The injector

How to lower a VAZ 2114 - Do-it-yourself car repair

How is everything going?

Idle speed fluctuates, causes, malfunctions

Speed ​​jumps while idling VAZ 2114

Idling on a Chevrolet Niva

Unstable idling niva chevrolet

Speed jumps while idling VAZ 2114