We change silent blocks on a Niva Chevrolet with our own hands: which ones are better, tips and articles

What are silent blocks and their features

Silent blocks are units that connect suspension parts to each other and absorb shock loads when driving.
They absorb vibrations during driving, providing comfort to passengers and driver. The parts are bushings with elastic inserts. In the store you may hear a question about when your Niva was released. This is very important, since for models that came off the assembly line after 2008, silent blocks are made with an increased internal diameter by 2 mm, and an increased external diameter by 7. Thanks to this, the service life of the part increases. When purchasing, it is important to pay attention to the diameter of the nodes.

Purpose of silent blocks and their technical characteristics

Nissan Qashqai2 Front-wheel drive, manual Logbook Replacing subframe silent blocks.
Continued Most car owners know that there are parts such as silent blocks in their cars, but they don’t know why they are needed. Silent blocks are vibration-isolating spare parts that are often used in virtually every car, especially in suspension components. What is a vibration isolator consists of two iron plates and their rubber, otherwise called an elastomer.

Good vibration isolation parameters can be achieved through the use of vulcanized processing of parts during production. You can get a vibration isolator where the friction between the metal and the elastomer is reduced to a minimum. This structure perfectly dampens external vibration that occurs during driving.

Silent blocks completely dampen circular, torsional and axial vibrations, which is of fundamental importance when operating jeeps like Niva. By connecting suspension units, such a vibration isolator extends the service life of parts for a long time. Therefore, it is important to monitor their condition and change it when it’s time. Otherwise, instead of a “penny” repair, it’s natural to spend money on buying new levers, for example.

KEY-DOP

Silent blocks are created from a wide range of materials; as annoying as it may sound, the most resistant ones are rubber. Therefore, it is better to install them specifically. As for the service life of such a vibration isolator, on paper it is about 100 thousand kilometers, but in practice this figure decreases quite significantly. The consequence of this is the poor quality of roads in our country and in the CIS countries. A good period between checks of silent blocks is 20-25 thousand kilometers, and replacement - 50-80 thousand kilometers (what is the duration of the project, how is your Niva

).

How to understand when it's time to change parts

Checking the condition of the silent blocks of the front levers and torque rods is carried out according to the instructions:

  • raise the car on a jack or lift;
  • inspect the insert for breaks and cracks;
  • rock the suspension elements to eliminate play.

If you find excessive mobility, tears and cracks, then it is necessary to urgently replace it. Additional signs of wear on the unit are:

  • problems with car controllability;
  • the steering wheel turns hard or the car responds to your command with a delay;
  • wheel alignment curvature;
  • uneven tire wear.

If you wait, suspension repairs will be more expensive. But what is more dangerous is that the risk of an accident increases; you cannot drive such a car.

Which silent blocks to choose for replacement

For Chevrolet Niva, silent blocks with rubber or polyurethane inserts are produced. Car enthusiasts often choose more modern material, but do not take into account its disadvantages:

  • the material quickly collapses under torsional loads;
  • high cost of a set of parts;
  • When used at temperatures below -20 °C, they often tear and lose elasticity.

Polyurethane inserts work best on new parts; you should not buy them for cars manufactured before 2008. It is worth deciding on silent blocks made of polyurethane for the following reasons:

  • slow wear of the part;
  • resistance to heat;
  • preservation of properties under the influence of chemicals and motor oil.

If you want to change the upper silent blocks, then the best choice would be the Mitsubishi MB633820 part, which are resistant to low temperatures and create comfort when moving. It is best to replace the lower units with classic ones made of rubber, designed specifically for the Chevrolet Niva.

Preparing to replace units

You need to carry out the work in the garage, having at hand not only new parts for the Chevrolet Niva, but also a set of tools:

  • can of WD-40;
  • a set of cranks, heads and open-end wrenches;
  • pipe to increase torsional moment;
  • bottle type jack;
  • chisel;
  • hammer;
  • special puller.

If you have all the necessary tools, then you can save up to 4-5 thousand rubles on replacing silent blocks. Therefore, it is worth investing in a puller, although it will increase the cost of the first repair.

Recommendations

Comments 18

16mm stud, long nuts, washers and tubes for silent blocks.

When “pressing out” for the first time I broke the good old Soviet vice (medium size). When I knocked it out, I was surprised how simple it turned out!

I'll probably buy myself a hydraulic press in the fall

Silent blocks are removed and pressed using the same puller. I bought it at Autoworld. Metal is shit. But, if you're careful, there's enough to replace all the silent parts. Look at my blog www.drive2.ru/l/6347287/ www.drive2.ru/l/6357444/

I didn’t understand much about which place should be crushed, where to press what then (

A 400 gram hammer and a blunt chisel, in a vice. First you crush the back side of the silent, then 3 hits under the skirt with a chisel and you’re done. Previously, I also wanted to use a press, I bought a puller for silent blocks, the puller was not enough to press out one side, because it only worked with a meter-long collar. With a chisel and hammer, it takes 5 minutes to change each lever, even the silent parts of the lower H/O lever. The first time is just problematic. The whole trick is to crush the back side of the silent

For garage handicraftsmen, it is a pleasure to make various devices for repairing automotive components. You can make pullers with your own hands to remove silent blocks, to remove wheel hubs, etc. All you need is desire, materials and time to make.

Instructions for installing new silent blocks

Replacement of parts on a Chevrolet Niva is carried out for the right and left levers according to the same instructions.

  1. Raise the car using a jack. Remove the wheel.
  2. Place a support under the lower arm.
  3. Using a jack, raise the lower arm or, conversely, lower the car slightly to increase the load on the suspension. It is best to use a second jack to fully compress the spring. This way you will achieve this effect faster.
  4. Install the tie down spring and then lower the second jack to relieve stress on the anti-roll bar.
  5. Release the lever from the stabilizer clamp.
  6. Remove the shock absorber mounting bolt from the eye, having first unscrewed it.
  7. Remove the three nuts that secure the ball joint to the arm.
  8. Remove the second jack and remove the spring. Unscrew the lower arm axle nut and use a spacer to knock out the axle.
  9. Remove the lever. Pay attention to the location of the front suspension axle shims. Try to remember their number so that there are no problems when reassembling.
  10. Remove the nuts from the upper arm axis. Remove them along with the washers.
  11. Using a puller, press the old parts out of the lever lugs. If this cannot be done with a tool, then you need to use a blowtorch or gas torch. Clean the seat.
  12. Install new silent blocks and press them with the same tool. Before this, it is advisable to coat the lever and bushing with graphite lubricant, Litol or Movil.

Now you need to install the lever in place, making sure to place the shims correctly. Before you install this part, you can change the silent blocks on the upper arm. This operation is carried out according to simpler instructions:

  1. Tie the front hub together with the caliper to the body so as not to break the brake hose during the work.
  2. Remove the upper arm by unscrewing the bolts securing the axle and arm to the ball joint.

The rest of the work follows the same principles as when installing parts on the lower arm. First, the worn bushing is removed with a puller, and then a new one is installed in its place. Don't forget to clean the seat of the upper assembly and treat it with lubricant. After installing this part of the suspension, carry out final assembly.

The final tightening of the silent blocks should only be carried out with the machine standing on the ground. The Niva manufacturer recommends tightening the lower axle nut with a force of 100-170 N. After replacing the components on both sides, it is recommended to have a wheel alignment performed at a service station. This will help increase the life of the suspension and tires.

Replacing the upper silent blocks

If the technical inspection confirms that the part is faulty, it must be replaced. Replacing the upper silent blocks on a Niva is a roughly similar operation on the rear suspension of an SUV and on the front. Let's look at this process using the example of how to replace these vibration isolators on the front upper arm. The algorithm of actions is as follows:

  1. First of all, you should unscrew the wheel from the required side.
  2. Then dismantle the upper ball joint by unscrewing its fastening nuts.
  3. Afterwards, the process of dismantling the lever itself occurs, which is carried out by unscrewing the nuts of the bolts securing it.
  4. After dismantling the lever, using a special puller or a hammer with a small chisel, the old silent block is knocked out of its seat. The procedure of burning out the silent block is very popular, but this negatively affects the condition of the levers themselves, since the metal softens and loses its factory reliability.
  5. Next, it is important to clean the groove for the silent block from dirt, and then lubricate it with a thin layer of some kind of lubricant.
  6. Now you can “fit” the new part into the groove. It can also be lightly lubricated before planting.
  7. The replacement has been completed. The last step in the work will be to reassemble the suspension in the reverse order, but without tightening the nuts and bolts at the mounting points. It is important to do tightening with the machine standing.

We change silent blocks on a Niva Chevrolet with our own hands: which ones are better, tips and articles

The Chevrolet Niva received an almost complete front suspension from its older relative, and if so, then the design is almost 40 years old. Nobody makes any special demands on the suspension elements of a potential SUV; the main thing is reliability. Over these four decades, the suspension has actually shown itself quite well, except for the quality of consumables, ball joints and silent blocks. Do-it-yourself replacement of Niva Chevrolet silent blocks is on our agenda today.

Old and new silent blocks for Niva Chevrolet

Upper arm and silent blocks.

Rubber-metal articulated bushings (silent blocks) on all Nivas until 2008 had a different design from the modern one, and the design and dimensions changed only for the lower front ones.

The upper ones remained interchangeable with the lower silent blocks of classic VAZs.

Broken silent blocks of the old design

The service life of silent blocks of the old design ranged from two to three years, depending on the intensity of use and climatic conditions.

After 2008

After 2008, the lower silent blocks received a different design, which made it possible to almost double their service life, but problems with the quality of parts from different manufacturers remained the same.

On the new parts, the diameter of the inner sleeve increased by 2 mm , and the outer diameter by 7 mm, which could not but affect the service life. Old bushings turned out well from Balakovo and Dimitrovgrad silent blocks, they were packed in branded VAZ packaging. The quality of other manufacturers is poor.

New bushings are supplied to the conveyor. And about the new articles: the upper silent blocks, interchangeable with the old ones, received the number 2101-2904040 , the new lower, reinforced ones - 2121 2904040 .

Why are polyurethane silent blocks better?

Not so long ago, polyurethane bushings, dampers and silent blocks became popular. The thing is good and useful, but you shouldn’t take polyurethane unconditionally enthusiastically and here’s the thing.

Polyurethane works well as a compression damping material.

Classic regular silent block

For example, shock absorber bushings made from it are quite durable. But the silent block mainly works to twist, and the articulation of the SUV’s suspension implies large angles of rotation of the levers. And rubber parts cope better with this; on off-road they work smoother and longer.

Why are they worse?

In addition, polyurethane is afraid of high temperatures, and on the upper arms on the right side the conditions are just such that they can render silent blocks made of polyurethane unusable a thousand kilometers away.

Polyurethane silent blocks in the upper arm

We conclude: for the city, asphalt roads, perhaps installing polyurethane makes sense. If the Chevrolet Niva is used mainly off-road, you should definitely give preference to rubber parts.

Replacing silent blocks

Rubber-metal hinges of the front suspension have a service life of no more than 80-100 thousand km. Depending on operating conditions, the lifespan before replacing silent blocks on Niva 2121 and Urban is reduced significantly. Diagnosis should be made for the following symptoms:

    Loss of straightness of movement, the car “moving” to the side at a constant speed or braking; Spontaneous changes in wheel alignment angles, uneven tire wear; The presence of booming sounds, rattling when working out irregularities; Body rocking VAZ 21214; The appearance of cracks, scuffs, and tears in rubber and metal structural elements.

Lack of timely attention to the problem leads to damage to adjacent suspension parts, deterioration of controllability and driving safety.

We change silent blocks on a Chevrolet Niva with our own hands

We sorted out the choice of silent blocks, now on the replacement procedure. The work is troublesome and time-consuming, but by doing it ourselves, we will save at least 4–5 thousand rubles. This is exactly the price for replacing silent blocks from specialists.

Most likely you will need an angle grinder.

If you do everything correctly and follow the recommendations, you can handle it yourself.

To press out and press in silent blocks, it is advisable to have a special puller.

It’s inexpensive and every grower should have such a thing in their arsenal. At service stations, bushings are changed using a press, and some manage to get by with a sledgehammer and a pipe of a suitable diameter. However, to replace the lower silent blocks, two more spring ties and an additional jack will be useful.

Precise algorithm upper lever

The work process goes as follows:

  1. We install the car on an inspection hole or on an overpass, this will make it easier to get to the suspension parts. We engage first gear and place the chocks under the rear wheels.
  2. We tear off the wheel nuts and hang the front end on a jack.

Using a jack as a lever

We use spring ties.

A grinder might come in handy here.

Old silent block. Get ready for battle!

If the silent block does not press out, you can burn it out. Standard solution.

We press in new silent blocks.

Removing the upper arm

The upper arm is even easier to remove - you need to unscrew the two bolts securing the axle and the three bolts securing the arm to the ball joint.

In this case, if the lower arm has not yet been assembled, you need to tie the front hub with the caliper to the body so as not to damage the brake hose.

The upper silent blocks are pressed in similarly to the lower ones

The upper silent blocks are pressed out and pressed using the same technology as the lower ones; it is highly advisable to use a puller so as not to look for adventures on your silent blocks.

Video about replacing silent blocks in the front suspension of a Chevrolet Niva

Replacing the lower silent blocks

Replacing the lower silent blocks on a Niva is a much more complex task than a similar procedure on the upper arms. This complication is due to the fact that a larger number of other suspension components will have to be dismantled. The process is similar on the rear and front parts of the suspension and looks like this:

  1. Lightly jack up the part of the car where the silent blocks will be replaced. After this, you need to place the spring tie between its coils.
  2. When lowering the car from the jack, tighten the tie tighter and tighter.
  3. The next step is to remove the wheel and leave the spring (shock absorber) hanging by unscrewing its mounting bolts.
  4. Next, the ball joint is removed by unscrewing its fastening nuts and using a jack.
  5. After dismantling the ball joint, the spring is completely removed from the Niva.
  6. There is access to the lever, so we unscrew it.
  7. Now you can knock out the worn silent blocks, clean the seating grooves and lubricate them.
  8. Having lubricated the new part, “drive” it into the seat, thereby completing the replacement.
  9. The last step is to put everything back together in reverse order.

As you can see, the measures to replace silent blocks both on a regular Niva (VAZ 2121) and on a Chevrolet Niva (VAZ 2131) are completely doable with your own hands. Of course, if you do not have confidence in your abilities, it is better to entrust the replacement to professionals. Good luck on the roads!

Important Note

And one more important note: after assembling the suspension, the final tightening of the silent blocks should only be carried out with the machine standing on the ground. This is an axiom and cannot be ignored.

Otherwise, silent blocks will last no more than a thousand kilometers. In addition, there is a torque rating for the lower axle nut. it is 100–170 N. This is quite a large force and without a long lever it will not be possible to tighten the nut correctly. Good luck with the replacement and as smooth roads as possible!

Changing the silent blocks of the front levers on a Chevrolet Niva

From time to time situations arise when it is necessary to change the silent blocks on a Chevrolet Niva SUV. But before you find out how this is done, you should find out what kind of product it is and what component in the car it is responsible for? Indeed, most novice drivers have never encountered such a name, but as they say: “if you love to ride, you also love to carry a sled.” So, the time comes when you need to pay attention to your car and replace the silent blocks of the front control arms with your own hands. This is exactly what this material was created for.

Purpose and design of the product

The main purpose of a silent block or, in simple words, a rubber-metal hinge is to connect suspension parts and dampen oscillatory movements due to the rubber filling inside the product. A truly useful product that has the simplest design. It is a silent block, a metal double bushing with rubber or polyurethane filling inside. This filling performs the main role - damping vibrations and vibrations. The photo below shows silent blocks.

These parts are installed mainly in the front suspension of the Niva Chevrolet vehicle. With their help, the connection between the front suspension arms and the anti-roll bar is ensured. A similar connection is provided in the vehicle's rear suspension, gearbox and engine.

Location of the upper silent block

When is a product replacement necessary?

Each part in a Chevrolet Niva car has its own performance properties. There comes a time when the hinges fail and need to be replaced. But first, it is important to find out when to start such procedures or how to determine whether a silent block is faulty.

For cars that are operated on high-quality road surfaces, the service life of silent blocks is 100,000 km. But for the Chevrolet Niva SUV, these joints will have to be replaced at least 3-4 times before this time. But you shouldn’t rely on mileage; you can determine the need to replace products based on the following factors:

  • vehicle control has deteriorated;
  • When turning the steering wheel, the movement of the wheels is felt to be slow.
  • On bumps, knocking noises appear from the front of the car.

To confirm their malfunction, you can contact a service station, but here you will have to pay for diagnostics, so you will need to remove the hinges and determine their wear, as they say - by touch. To do this, it is not necessary to remove them from the car, but only need to carry out a visual inspection in the inspection hole. Having found out that the front hinges need to be replaced, we will begin to do it ourselves.

Replacing front arm joints

Before starting work, you must ensure that you have the following tools:

Unscrew the nuts and remove the washers

  • key to 22;
  • a special puller for removing and installing new hinges;
  • standard set of tools.

Of course, before starting work, do not forget to purchase new silent blocks for the front control arms for the Chevrolet Niva.

Replacement of the upper silent blocks is carried out for both sides of the front suspension, even if only the hinges on one side are faulty.

We begin to dismantle the old hinges of the upper arms, after which they are replaced with new ones:

Pressing out old silent blocks of front levers Niva Chevrolet

  1. The Niva Chevrolet car is installed on an inspection pit for ease of work.
  2. We turn on the handbrake and install chocks or shoes under the rear wheels.
  3. The front wheel is removed.
  4. The nuts securing the ball joint are unscrewed and it is removed.
  5. The upper suspension arm is removed.
  6. Using a 22mm wrench, unscrew the lever axle nuts.
  7. After unscrewing them, you need to remove them along with the washers.
  8. Next, you need to use a special puller. The puller looks like the photo below. With its help, the old element is removed.

This is what the puller looks like

After completing the installation on one side, you need to do the same on the other. Replacing the lower arm joints on an SUV is carried out in a similar way. Assembly of the front arm is carried out in the reverse order of removal. After installing the wheels, you will need to visit a service station to check and adjust the wheel alignment.

At this stage, the replacement of silent blocks is completed. As you can see, there is nothing complicated about this, it will only take a few hours of free time and the car will be almost like new.

Replacement

To carry out the work you will need a garage with a pit, as well as a standard set of tools.

Required tools and materials

First of all, you need to stock up on new silent blocks. It is also recommended to buy bolts and nuts for securing the arms so as not to use old ones.

Materials and tools you will need:

  • WD-40 product;
  • ½" and 1/4" collars;
  • open-end wrenches and heads from 13 to 24;
  • strong wrench and pipe to increase torque;
  • bottle type jack;
  • puller;
  • chisel;
  • hammer.

Replacement procedure

The work is performed sequentially for the right and left front levers in the following order:

1. Raise the car on a jack and remove the wheel. 2. Place a support under the lower arm; 3. Raise the lower arm with a jack or lower the car slightly to load the suspension; 4. Unscrew the nuts of the bolts that secure the ball joint to the upper arm (3 pieces) 5. Unscrew the nuts of the bolts that secure the axle of the upper arm to the front suspension cross member bracket 6. Remove the arm, and be sure to pay attention to the adjusting washers installed on the mounting bolts axes, remember their location and quantity;


7. Unscrew the nuts securing the upper arm axle; 8. Next, remove the nuts and washers from the axle;

9. Press out the old silent blocks from the lever lugs using a special puller; 10. Press in new silent blocks

Assembly of the unit is performed in the reverse order of disassembly.

Important! The silent blocks need to be finally tightened after the car is removed from the jack.

Chevrolet Niva Vossnaya › Logbook › Replacing the silent blocks of the upper arms

Hello everyone, I don’t know how long these silent blocks have rolled, they look like the mileage of the car is 147,000. The silent block near the exhaust broke, I drove another 500 km with it and still decided to change it, especially since I already changed it on the first field. In general, here it is:

I bought BRT site blocks, we don’t have DAAZ.

I thought I was controlling it quickly, I thought (. I pressed for a long time, about 2 hours for each lever:

The first lever was damaged by the sent washers that were sold to me, I drove another 300 km with it and the silent blocks were squeezed out.

I found the washers and redid everything, now it’s normal! But the silent ones had to be thrown out if they were damaged.

Price tag: 600 ₽ Mileage: 147750 km

Silent blocks Chevrolet Niva. Device and purpose. Replacement.

Despite the fact that some car suspension repair work is carried out according to regulations, unscheduled interventions cannot be ruled out. Each car service has a price list, which indicates the cost of a particular service without taking into account the cost of spare parts. Among the entire list is the replacement of silent blocks. Not every car owner knows what this unit is and what it serves. Meanwhile, this work is expensive, so most motorists prefer to carry out such manipulations themselves. If, for example, you replace the silent blocks of a Chevrolet Niva yourself, you will be able to save several thousand rubles on repairing the front suspension.

Design and purpose of silent block

When driving a car on the road, and especially when driving it over uneven surfaces, the suspension takes on enormous loads. However, some suspension components must remain movable. We are talking about levers, and it doesn’t matter whether the suspension is multi-link or MacPherson system.

When the lever rotates about its fulcrum, we speak of a hinge joint. But the car's suspension arm experiences axial, radial and angular loads. In this case, all vibrations must be damped and not transmitted to the body. In such cases, the silent block plays the role of a hinge. The design principle of all silent blocks is the same. They differ only in shape or size. It is represented by two concentric bushings, between which there is a rubber (polyurethane) insert. The rubber is fixedly fixed relative to the bushings, and it can only vibrate due to its own elasticity.

Thus, the silent block allows not just a hinged, but an elastic connection between the lever and the axle. They come in several types. Some of them do not have an outer ring. The rubber product is pressed into the eye of the lever (by lever we here mean any rotating body), but the principle of its operation does not change.

What to do when a part is stuck?

The first signs of trouble can be detected early. To do this, unscrew the axle mounting nut with a 24 mm wrench, and then use a socket with a wrench to try to turn the bolt. If this cannot be done even with the elongated lever of the crank, then get ready for a lot of work - the axle is clearly stuck. In some, especially advanced cases, a stuck bolt does not even allow the spring to be released and pulled out.

There are several ways to solve the problem, but none of them are easy and will require from 1 to 5 hours depending on the degree of souring of the axle. Experienced owners of Niva 2121 practice the following method of dismantling the part:

  1. Using an angle grinder, cut off the axle on both sides to free the lower arm and remove it.
  2. Use a gas torch or blowtorch to heat up the part of the front beam with the bushing.
  3. Try to move the axle with strong blows of a hammer. If this was possible, but the end of the cut bolt was flattened, then you need to trim it again and knock out the part completely.
  4. If the bolt does not move, it is necessary to repeat the heating and cooling cycles several times. You can weld a crowbar to the cut-off part of the axle, with which you can try to turn it while warming up.

The described procedure usually takes 1-2 hours. If after this time you have not been able to move or rotate the steel rod, you need to move on to drastic methods:

  • drilling a bolt from the sleeve with a hand drill;
  • complete disassembly of the chassis and removal of the front beam.

The dismantled beam must be taken to the nearest car service center, where the rod will be pressed out with a press or drilled out on a machine.

Diagnosis of silent block faults

It is impossible to accurately indicate the service life of silent blocks, because everything depends on the quality of the rubber insert and the operating conditions of the vehicle. But everyone understands that sooner or later they will have to be replaced. There are several methods of self-diagnosis. All these methods can be implemented comprehensively in order to make an accurate verdict regarding repairs.

First of all, I would like to note that a faulty silent block causes a decrease in the car’s handling on the highway, and also causes extraneous noise or knocking in the suspension.

Any driver will immediately feel changes for the worse. But similar symptoms also appear when the ball joints are faulty, so you will have to use the method of elimination.

  • For convenience, you should hang the wheel. Giving it variable forces at the top and bottom points, you need to rock the hub in a vertical plane. The presence of play is very easy to determine. It is important to make sure that the source of this play is the silent block and not the ball joint.
  • It is necessary to visually inspect the entire lever mounting assembly. Small cracks are allowed on the elastic bands, but there should not be large breaks. A rupture of the rubber rim, which is visible from under the bushing, is not yet a cause for concern, but a sign of imminent failure of the silent block.
  • The axis of rotation of the lever and the axis of the silent block must coincide. If they are at an angle to each other, then this indicates that the rubber has begun to deteriorate, and under load the inner bushing has shifted relative to the outer one.

Some craftsmen advise using a mounting tool to open the lever and swing it. But doing this on a loaded suspension is problematic, so the above diagnostic methods are quite sufficient.

Diagnostics of wear of silent blocks

Of course, by constantly checking the condition of the VAZ 2121 suspension silent blocks, you can track the moment when they need to be changed. It is highly desirable to carry out such procedures, but it happens that this is not possible, so assessing the behavior of the car when driving will come to the rescue. Few people know, but the nature of a car’s movement can say a lot about its technical condition. More precisely, when the silent blocks on the Niva wear out, the following features of the car’s behavior when driving appear:

Such troubles, of course, may well signal problems in other suspension components, but when silent blocks wear out, these are the main symptoms that are strictly prohibited from being ignored.

To finally make sure that vibration isolators are the culprits of the problems, carry out a technical inspection of the Niva’s suspension on a lift or in a pit. Any externally manifested defect (scratches, cracks, scuffs) indicates the need to replace the silent block, or better yet all of them at once, even if they are in acceptable condition. Replacing the silent blocks of a Chevrolet Niva or a regular Niva is not such a complicated operation, so having basic repair skills, you can do it yourself quite simply.

How to replace the silent blocks of a Chevrolet Niva

Replacing it yourself is quite a labor-intensive task. Even if everything is so simple in the description, in reality you will have to spend your time. The difficulty is that it is often difficult to remove the lever mounting bolts. In addition, pressing and pressing of silent blocks must be carried out using special devices. The rest of the algorithm can be presented in the form of step-by-step instructions.

One side of the car is placed on a jack and the wheel is removed.

The second jack compresses the spring. To do this, you need to place a jack under the lower cup and begin to lift the car.

Spring ties are installed.

The lower arm is lowered and the stabilizer mount is removed.

The lower ball joint is unscrewed. If the nut does not give in immediately, use a WD nut.

The spring is removed and the lower arm nut is unscrewed.

The lever bolt is removed (you need to remember the number of washers and how they were positioned).

The old silent blocks are pressed out and new silent blocks are pressed in. To do this, you can use a press or a special device.

The place where the outer sleeve will be pressed is treated with sandpaper and lubricated with lithol.

The lower arm is installed.

Removing the upper arm is a continuation of all work, so the spring is not installed. The upper ball joint is unscrewed. Pre-clean the threads with a metal brush and treat with WD-shkoy.

In this case, the hub should be tied with wire, otherwise the brake hose will be damaged.

The nuts of the upper arm are unscrewed.

The lever is removed. Pay attention to the adjusting washers. Do not remove them under any circumstances.

The silent blocks are pressed out and pressed in.

After pressing in the silent blocks, the suspension is assembled

After assembly, you must visit a car repair shop to perform wheel alignment work. Otherwise, you will have to change tires often.

Replacing silent blocks of Niva lower arms

In the front suspension, when starting off, clicks were periodically heard; the fault turned out to be the silent blocks of the lower arms. During a detailed inspection, I discovered that they were destroyed; on the right side, the inner part peeled off and flew out, because of this, the lever could move forward and backward, which was what produced the clicks.

To replace, you need a pit wrench for 24,19,13, a jack, a hammer, a silent block presser, wooden blocks, gloves, wd-40, a chisel, silent sides, 2 assembled axles.

We take off the wheel nuts, jack it up, and unscrew the wheel. We jack up the lever, unscrew the shock absorber, the lower ball joint, and the mounts of the lateral stability arm.

Gradually lower the lever, pull out the spring, unscrew the lever axis, knock out the axis, do not lose the adjusting washers, remember where they were, they are responsible for the camber, when reassembling, put them in place, remove the lever.

We knock out the old silent blocks, press in new ones, I pressed the first one in with a special filler, but it’s not very convenient, I hammered the next three with a hammer through the spacer from the bearing and parts from the silent block presser.

We screw everything in the reverse order, silent blocks, shock absorber for mounting the transverse stability, tighten it when the car is on its wheels.

It took about 4 hours to replace both sides. On the right side, the soured silent block had to be cut with a hacksaw. The bolts of the transverse stability clamp broke off when unscrewing, fortunately I took a jar of bolts and nuts with me in reserve.

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