Replacing the CV joint on a VAZ 2114 and the outer boot with your own hands

Cost of anthers

The price range is quite wide: from approximately 150 to 1000 rubles.
and higher. It all depends on the make of the car and the manufacturer of the part. Non-original spare parts are cheaper. However, it also happens that the cost is unreasonably high: for example, because of the brand. Thus, the price of covers for a Toyota Land Cruiser reaches 8,000 rubles. The same can be said about other prestigious car brands. But not all car owners are eager to pay that kind of money for essentially an ordinary rubber band, albeit of high quality. Therefore, many simply select covers from other cars that are suitable in size and cost. Causes of boot rupture:

• constant driving through water and mud;
• high torsional load (regular sharp turns);
• careless (unprofessional) repair of suspension parts.

Replacing the CV joint on a VAZ 2115 with your own hands

Joint replacement for VAZ 2115

Self-replacing CV hooks for VAZ cars

Welcome friends to the car repair site. The main purpose of boots for CV joints. reliable protection of one of the most important components. constant velocity joint of the vehicle from dirt and dust. If it is damaged or broken, no repair work is carried out.

The only way out. replace goods. I would like to immediately add that this annotation is suitable for almost all types of VAZs, since the replacement process is similar. But there are some peculiarities.

On the one hand, a bad boot is cheap, and such expenses will not go into your pocket. On the other hand, replacing a CV with a CV is a very labor-intensive process, which is estimated at 100 people in a very large number. Thus, with Makar, the ideal option is to do the work without the help of others. And there is nothing complicated about it.

What is the risk of damage to the CV CV trunk?

Many car owners underestimate the importance of a CV trunk and create a huge delay. It's actually very dangerous

Damage to this element allows large amounts of water, dust and dirt to enter the CV seam. Over time, all these “guests” mix and form a powerful abrasive composition. At some point, water causes corrosion and the joint begins to collapse. If you don't change the load in time, the CV joint may malfunction if the wheel doesn't lock when driving nearby.

That this threatens to be explained again is not necessary. Also be sure to read the article on DIY CV joint replacement.

How to determine the malfunction?

Many car owners do not know when to replace the CV trunk seam. In fact, almost everything here depends on the attention of the car owner. Such loops are often made of rubber or rubberized plastic.

Naturally, the trunk wears out much faster than the hinge itself. It is unrealistic to recognize damage to the trunk by any sound or change in the behavior of the car (unless the CV joint itself has already failed). Only a visual inspection will help identify the malfunction. Malfunctions of the CV joint loader are as follows:

Defects or damage can be seen on the saw. Cracks, holes. Apron rupture.

In this case there is only one way out. This is to replace the CV loading wheel, there are no other repair options.

Replacing the CV boot device. recovery function

Now let's look at how to change the CV joint loading and forget about the dilemma forever. The following method of action: 1. Put the car on the handbrake, engage first gear and additionally block the wheels with a special “block” (stops). 2.

Lightly unscrew the nuts on the front wheel, remove the cover in the center of the wheel and turn the hub lock nut a few times. 3. Raise the car with a jack and place it on a wooden or other stand (this will be more secure).

When lifting your car, remember to be safe. 4. Tighten the mounting bolts on the wheel and remove it. 5. Unscrew the hub nut and remove the washer. 6.

Remove the pair of bolts that secure the ball joint to the cam. 7. Grasp the stand with both hands and pull it towards you. This allows you to remove the disk from the key. 8. Pull out the internal transmission drive element.

Be very careful here. To prevent oil from leaking out of the box, it is better to immediately close the hole. In addition, the drive must be pulled out alternately.

If you do this work now, there is a great opportunity to mix the gears. In this case, it will be very difficult to put everything in its place. 9. Remove the clips that are attached to the shoes. This can be done using a regular screwdriver. 10.

Take a hammer and use it to gently knock down the CV joint holder. This method can move it off the shaft evenly. 12. Remove old oil from the joint.

This can be done using regular diesel fuel, gasoline, or at least some other special storage. 13. Put on a new shoe. Be sure to add the latest oil to it before installation. 14. Install the joint onto the shaft and use a hammer to replace it. 15.

Tighten the dust cap and secure it with the special clamps. 16. Place the CV joint in the window until it clicks.

Fault diagnosis

The VAZ 2114 has 2 external and 2 internal CV joints. First you need to determine which one is knocking. The optimal test would be on a suspension diagnostic stand. If this is not possible, diagnosis by ear is possible.

Two signs indicate a grenade malfunction in a VAZ 2114:

• the sound resembles a crunch;
• It usually appears when turning.

The simplest and most accurate way to do a garage check is as follows:

1. Place the car on a flat surface;
2. Turn the wheels to one side (to the middle position or a little further);
3. Drive off with medium speed. It is worth remembering that starting too smoothly may not reveal a crunch due to insufficient load on the CV joint, and starting too abruptly may lead to the drive flying out of the wheel.
4. Repeat the operation by turning the steering wheel in the other direction. The appearance of a crunch indicates a malfunction of the outer CV joint on the side in which the steering wheel is turned.

Visual detection of ruptured anthers will also be a sign of a CV joint failure. If you discover a damaged protection for any grenade, it must be immediately removed, disassembled and cleaned. If there is enough grease and there is no significant wear on the hinges yet, it is enough to replace the boot and fill it with new grease. If the wear of the balls is obvious, it is better to change the grenade.

CV joint boot VAZ 2114 with a defect

It is more difficult to diagnose a malfunction of the internal grenade on a VAZ 2114. If it malfunctions, it crunches when starting off in a straight direction, and not when turning. But the same symptoms, for example, include play in the steering rack or wear on the engine mounts.

Sometimes the problem can be diagnosed from the pit by tugging on the drive from the gearbox side: strong play or the appearance of extraneous sounds indicate that the internal CV joint should be replaced.

Tools required for replacement, preparatory work

Replacing a CV joint on a VAZ-2114 with your own hands will take about one hour. But you should prepare the necessary tools. To work, you will need keys 17 and 19. You should also prepare a set of heads. Additionally, you will need a wheel wrench, mounting blades, a wrench, and a jack. They also prepare CV joint-4 lubricant, rags, and pliers. For greater convenience, the car should be driven onto an overpass or into a pit.

The car is put on the parking brake or put into gear. To make replacing a CV joint on a VAZ-2114 even safer, special clamps are placed under the wheels. The car has internal and external angular velocity joints. Both “grenades” are located on the drive shaft. The process of replacing both internal and external is no different.

Disassembling the drive and replacing the boot

Sequence of work.

The car is driven into a pit, chocks are placed under the wheels, and the car itself is left in first gear.

Before completely removing the wheel, loosen all the wheel nuts.

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The protective cap of the nut securing the drive to the hub is also removed.

To prevent the nut from unscrewing from the shaft, it is centered around the circumference, which is why it has bends that fit into a groove made in the shaft.

These bends need to be aligned, this is done with a thin screwdriver or a drift and a hammer.

After aligning the bends, using a socket and a powerful wrench, the nut is unscrewed, and the washer located under it is also removed.

Next, the car is jacked up and wooden stands are placed under its sills.

The wheel nuts are unscrewed and the wheel is removed.

Next, work is done under the car.

If there is a crankcase protection, it can be unscrewed. Then the oil from the gearbox is drained through the drain plug into the prepared container.

Next, you need to unscrew the two bolts securing the lower ball joint to the hub.

This will make it possible for the latter to move sideways. At the same time, you can check the condition of the support itself.

The steering wheel must be turned all the way to the left so that the drive is completely shifted in the inner CV joint, ensuring its minimum length.

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After this, the hub is removed from the splines of the drive shaft.

The outside of the drive will be removed.

Then you can go in two ways.

The first way.

Knock down the outer “grenade” without removing the inner CV joint.

To do this, you need to remove the boot clamps, and then cut the boot, and then wipe off the existing grease on the hinge.

Then you need to prevent the drive from moving on the internal hinge.

To do this, take a small vice or a butt wrench, clamp the shaft in them and hold it firmly in your hands.

An assistant, using a soft metal spacer and a hammer, knocks down the CV joint, striking the inner race of the hinge.

With this method, there is no need to drain the oil from the box. But there is a possibility that when striking, the inner race will jump out of the outer inner CV joint.

Also, shooting down a “grenade” in this way is not very convenient, since this work will be done in a limited space.

Second way.

Complete removal of the drive from the vehicle. To do this, a pry bar is driven between the gearbox housing and the internal joint and the shaft entering the gearbox is pulled back and forth.

After this, the drive is completely removed.

IMPORTANT: With this method, the oil must be drained.

The advantage of this method is also the ability to assess the condition and replace the gearbox seal, through which oil often leaks.

In the future we will consider work with the drive completely removed.

How to replace the outer CV joint boot without removing it

This is also possible, at least on domestic cars, but you will have to acquire (or borrow) a special device that stretches the boot. The device is a housing with movable arms attached to it and a connected hose for supplying compressed air. A rubber cover is put on them and they stretch it. All that remains is to pull the device through the grenade removed from the hub and release the levers. The process is worth watching in more detail in the video.

Replacing the inner CV joint boot

To do this, you will have to remove the drive shaft completely. But first you need to remove the outer CV joint, as described above, that is, pull it out of the hub without removing the grenade. Next, drain the oil from the box. After this, unscrew the nuts securing the inner joint (usually there are 6 of them) and insert a flat mounting between the gearbox and the CV joint - the part should come out of the socket. Clamp the part in a vice, then:

• remove the retaining ring using a flat screwdriver;
• pull out the inner CV joint housing and carefully pick out the balls located in the separator;
• remove the clip stopper and the clip itself;
• wash all parts in gasoline;
• install a new boot and, having generously treated everything with lubricant, reassemble in the reverse order;
• install the drive, tighten the drain plug and pour oil into the box.

Complete removal of the drive is also recommended if the grenade was not knocked down when trying to replace the outer CV joint boot. In this case, you can use a vice and achieve your goal. If you don’t need to knock down the grenade to replace it, just put on the cover after removing the inner CV joint, remembering to wash it first and apply new grease to the outside (the part cannot be repaired - it is not removable).

CV joint repair

As mentioned above, the hinge cannot be repaired. Conventionally, one of the repair measures includes washing the “grenade” after driving with a damaged boot.

Washing is carried out at the same time when the damaged boot on the pomegranate is replaced. The hinge is carefully knocked off the shaft, inspected for damage and thoroughly washed to remove any dirt and grease in gasoline or kerosene.

After washing, the assembly is filled with lubricant and mounted in place, having previously installed the boot. The procedure makes sense only if there are no obvious signs of a joint malfunction.

A crunchy or knocking part definitely needs to be replaced, since wear forms on the working surfaces of the inner race, and it is no longer possible to stop the destruction. Continued operation of the vehicle may be dangerous for the driver and other road users.

A grenade or CV joint is a car part that transmits torque from the engine and gearbox to the car's wheels. Replacing this element on a VAZ-2114 is a rather complicated procedure and requires certain skills and abilities. This article will tell you how to properly replace a CV joint on a car, as well as how to select the necessary spare part.

Video on replacement on the front-wheel drive VAZ 2113-2114-2115 family

The video will tell you how to replace a grenade on a car, and also tell you about the features and nuances.

Signs of failure of the outer grenade (CV joint)

There are two options here:

• signs that your grenade has already broken
• signs that the grenade will soon come out and break .

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How to understand that a grenade will break soon

Of course, the first sign of a malfunction of the external grenade is a crackling sound . If you hear a crackling noise while driving with the steering wheel turned, it is definitely a CV joint. The greater the angle of rotation of the wheel and the harder you press on the gas, the louder the clicks. Another sign that does not always appear is vibration on the steering wheel at speeds greater than 80 km/h. The vibration is only slightly similar to the vibration from an unbalanced wheel. It usually manifests itself as a slight twitching of the steering wheel.

How to understand that the outer CV joint is broken

If the CV joint breaks, the car will stop moving. In any gear engaged, press the gas, the speed increases, but the car does not move.

How to understand that it is the outer CV joint that has broken, and not the internal one or the clutch in general (the first signs of failure are similar to the signs of a clutch failure)? First of all, start the car and put it in any gear. Next, open the hood and look in turn at each of the shafts going from the box to the wheels (one short, the other long). If any shaft is spinning, it means that the CV joint has broken on this side.

I recommend not just visually looking at the shaft, but touching it with some long, hard object, such as a stick. The main thing is that there is nothing on it that can wrap around the shaft !!! When you touch the shaft with a stick, if it is spinning, you will feel a slight vibration. This is usually done in the dark, because it is difficult to understand whether a cylindrical object is spinning, especially in the dark.

Advice from experienced motorists

There are some useful tips on this matter that are worth listening to.
If you hear a characteristic crunch while driving in a straight line, it means the CV joint has failed. If this crunching noise is heard only when turning, then the problem lies in a faulty joint. Before installing a new CV joint, treat the grenade landing site with lubricant. This significantly extends its service life. To adjust the CV joint and seat it properly, use wooden attachments. If this is not done, the risk of damaging the new element is very high. The boot should be installed as tightly and efficiently as possible. If you don't do this, dirt and dust will soon get there. These components will quickly render it unusable, and repair work will have to be carried out again. The lock nut on the hub is tightened with a special torque tool

Moreover, the tightening is carried out strictly with the parameters specified in the operating manual for your modification of the VAZ 2114. During a routine inspection of the technical condition of your car, be sure to pay attention to the condition of the clamps and rubber elements to ensure their integrity. Such seemingly insignificant components can lead to serious consequences and significant financial costs. The purchase of spare parts, including CV joints, should be made only from trusted sellers, certified distributors. If you buy a bad, low-quality part, just trying to save money, you will have to pay even more to eliminate the consequences that the use of such elements led to.

If you buy a bad, low-quality part, just trying to save money, you will have to pay even more to eliminate the consequences that the use of such elements led to.

The CV joint is an important component of any car, and replacing it even on your own is not particularly difficult.

Knocking in the chassis is a frequent companion in life for owners of the VAZ 2114. Many elements that can cause knocking, bad roads, and low-quality parts can cause extraneous noise in the suspension. A common source of the problem is the angular velocity distributor, or CV joint (grenade).

The process of replacing a part is simple, so you can change it yourself. The question is often asked which CV joint for the VAZ 2114 is better: regular or tripoid. Among the most common arguments: tripoid is more reliable, but it hums and vibrates at high speeds. The regular one is less reliable, but the car handles better at high speed. However, you can find opposing opinions and arguments on this matter.

There is no clear answer which type is better. Operation in harsh conditions showed that there is no fundamental difference in driving sensations and reliability. The main thing is to buy a high-quality grenade made of well-hardened metal, install it correctly and monitor the safety of the anthers.

How to remove a vaz shruz

Having determined that it is the external grenade that is broken, we begin to remove it.

How to unscrew the hub nut on a VAZ?

First of all, unscrew the hub nut. To do this, take a 30mm head and a lever, the larger the better. We put bricks under the wheels to prevent the car from rolling (simply putting it in gear is not an option, the wheel will spin) and begin to unscrew the hub nut.

In this matter, the more you weigh, the better, since I very often lacked my weight and leverage of about one and a half meters. I got out of the situation in the following way: I stood completely on the lever, as close to the edge as possible, thereby giving maximum tension to the nut, and hit the lever with a hammer. Usually this method helped me unscrew even the most soured wheel nuts.

One more nuance: if the outer walls of the head come into contact with the walls of the hub, it is better to lubricate the head with mining or lithol, or, in extreme cases, with silicone grease. Thanks to this trick, the head will not bite in the hub.

How to remove a grenade?

The hub nut is unscrewed, now we remove the wheel, unscrew the two bolts that hold the ball joint, disconnect the suspension arm and the hub, move it to the side of the car while lightly tapping the grenade, remove it from the hub. At this point there are two options:

1. The grenade is already broken.
2. Replacing the grenade due to its crunching sound.

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In the first case, you simply remove the outer part of the CV joint from the shaft, then the retaining ring from the drive shaft and knock off the cage with a hammer.

In the second case, removing the CV joint becomes more difficult. You need to deflect the grenade relative to the shaft at the maximum angle so that the bearing balls and their cage are visible.

Now use a hammer to break the jumpers of the cage between the bearing balls and take out the balls one by one. When you take out the last ball, you can remove the body of the grenade, and then its inner part sitting on the shaft, after first removing the locking ring from the shaft.

Of course, you can simply try to knock the grenade off the shaft, but due to the locking ring this will be problematic.

That's it, the CV joint is completely removed. Now let's start installing the new part.

The grenade replacement process in detail

To begin with, before starting the replacement procedure itself, you need to decide on the tools. So, what will be needed when replacing the internal grenade: knobs and heads 13-17, as well as 30; keys 17 and 19; jack; lamp; pliers; CV joint lubrication; wheel wrench; and the spare part itself.

Go!

Now that everything is assembled, you can begin the replacement procedure:

1. We remove the lower engine protection.
2. Drain the oil from the gearbox.
3. Using a wheel wrench, remove the wheel.
4. Using a 30 mm socket, unscrew the nut securing the outer CV joint.

Unscrew the nut securing the CV joint to the hub

Unscrew the fasteners and remove the ball joint from the fist

We dismantle the CV joint from the hub

Using a crowbar, remove the inner CV joint from the landing mount

Unscrew the boot clamp to free access to the grenade

CV joint lubricant LUXE

Grenade selection

The choice of the inner CV joint should be taken seriously and carefully, since it is one of the main drive parts of the car. As practice shows, this part quite often fails on cars of the VAZ 2113-2115 family. Therefore, it is worth carefully selecting a spare part not only by price, but also by quality.

Original

2108-2215056 – original catalog number of the internal grenade for the VAZ-2114. The average cost is 2000 rubles . Fitting the fasteners is easy and does not require any modifications.

Analogs

Grenade assembly with boot and clamp made by "HOLA"

In addition to original spare parts, you can find quite a lot of analogues on the automotive market, which are in no way inferior to the original in quality and price. All of them are certified and recommended for installation on this vehicle. So, let's look at what analogues can be installed on the VAZ-2114:

Some VAZ-2114 owners recommend tripoid grenades for installation.

How to install a new CV joint on a VAZ

Be sure to follow this sequence for installing new parts:

1. Small clamp.
2. Grenade boot.
3. Large clamp.
4. Retaining ring.
5. The CV joint itself.

First, we clean the drive shaft from dust, dirt and old grease. Most CV joints come with lubricant, a boot, two clamps and sometimes a new hub nut. If suddenly there is no lubricant in the kit, it is better to use graphite lubricant, and if it is not available, then simple lithol. First of all, we put on a small collar. Then the boot (it should go behind the limiting washer) and a large clamp. Then we put a retaining ring on the drive shaft. Now open the tube of lubricant and completely squeeze it into the grenade. Now it's time to put the CV joint on the drive. Because of the locking ring, it will be difficult to insert the drive into the grenade, so we take a hammer and lightly, trying not to damage the thread, press the grenade into place. Now you need to put the boot on the CV joint and tighten the clamps. Assembly occurs in reverse disassembly sequence, but there is one nuance! Do not overtighten the hub nut! This may cause the bearing to hum. The hub nut must be tightened with a force of 225.0–250.0 N*m. Of course, few people have a torque wrench. So, tighten the nut tightly, but not with all your might. In theory, a force of a maximum of 25 kg will need to be applied to a meter-long knob. But, the extension pipe will spring back under such force, so how can you describe it exactly? But obviously there is no need to jump with weight.

The design and principle of operation of the CV joint

Types of CV joints

There are several CV joint designs:

cracker joint, which is used on trucks;

tripoid, which is often used as an internal CV joint due to the large axial movement;

a paired universal joint, which is not widely used due to the complexity of its design;

Ball CV joint, which has gained the most popularity, consists of 6 balls located between the inner and outer rings with special slots for them, and a separator with which these balls are held in place. In this case, the inner ring is connected to the drive shaft using a spline connection.

We can say that this invention made a kind of revolution in the design of front-wheel drive cars. Many engineers have tried to make the swivel wheels take on the engine torque.

Depending on the type (ball, tripod, cam or twin cardan), the design of the CV joint may be different. However, their role in the transmission design is the same: the CV joint is part of the drive shaft. One side of the shaft is inserted into the wheel bearing, and the other into the differential. Constant velocity joints transfer rotational energy from the engine to the drive wheels through the hub bearings.

The two main components of a CV joint are the body and the race located inside it. Both of these elements have grooves in which balls are located. They rigidly connect both parts, which have a spherical shape, and transmit rotation.

For outer and inner CV joints, different types of joints are used: the outer end of the drive shaft is equipped with ball joints, and the inner end with tripod joints

The range of the working angle of the outer CV joint is wider than that of the inner one, since when the steered wheel is turned, the angle of rotation of the outer CV joint can reach up to 50 degrees. The working angle of the inner CV joint does not exceed 20 degrees. Therefore, different types of joints are used for external and internal CV joints: the outer end of the drive shaft is equipped with ball joints, and the inner end with tripod joints.

The design of the outer CV joint includes a cage mounted on the shaft with six grooves located along the radius. The assembly body has the same number of radial grooves. They contain balls that transmit torque. This transmission occurs from the shaft to the CV joint housing and further to the wheel hub.

The CV joint design allows bending, but not axial movement. Internal CV joints, designed for both bending and axial movement, have a slightly different design.

Internal constant velocity joints also differ from each other. This depends on the car model they are installed on. For example, in VAZ internal CV joints the body grooves are straight, not radial.

And in the internal CV joint of the Tavria, the rollers are mounted on three spikes of the cross, which rotate on needle bearings. They are placed in the internal longitudinal grooves of the CV joint housing. Thus, the joint is provided with both bending and axial movement.

The CV boot is held in place by two clamps. They are sold complete with any new CV joint.

Since the CV joint is located in a problem area where there is a lot of dirt and dust, it is equipped with sealed protection. This role is played by the boot - a corrugated rubber lining secured to the CV joint body with clamps.

Despite the variety of design solutions for CV joints, the principle of their operation remains unchanged - the contact points that transmit circumferential forces must necessarily be located in a bisector cavity passing through the bisector of the angle formed by the shafts.

Advantages and disadvantages of CV joints

The obvious advantages of the CV joint include the fact that when transmitting using this joint, there is almost no loss of power, compared to other similar mechanisms. Other advantages are its light weight, relative reliability and ease of replacement in case of breakdown.

The disadvantages of CV joints include the presence of a boot in the design, which is also a container for lubricant. The CV joint is located in a place where it is almost impossible to prevent its contact with foreign objects. The boot can be torn, for example, when driving on a rut that is too deep, when driving over an obstacle, etc. As a rule, the car owner finds out about this only when dirt has already entered the boot through a crack in the boot, causing intense wear. If you are sure that this happened recently, you can remove the CV joint, wash it, replace the boot and fill it with new grease. If the trouble happened a considerable time ago, the CV joint will definitely fail ahead of time.

Causes of failure

Even though the CV joint is made of durable and high-quality material, many car enthusiasts complain about their fragility and low reliability of the part.
Basically, the warranty period for a part from the factory of a new car is 100,000 kilometers, but in fact the service life of the CV joint depends on many factors, such as: the quality of the roads, the load and the driving style of the car owner. But the most common cause of failure is the last factor, along with a leaky boot. The boot fails when cracks have formed in its base, the rubber, due to long use or poor quality of the road, through which dust and dirt begin to get onto the parts. Therefore, it is very important to regularly monitor the condition and wear of the boot.

As for the first reason, backing up with the wheels turned out and sudden “starts” have the most negative impact on the operation of the element of the car we are considering. As a result of these factors, rapid wear occurs not only in the CV joint, but also in many other machine parts.

However, sometimes it happens that the boot remains intact and unscathed, and the CV joint crunches quite a lot. For every car owner, this should be a sign of obvious problems caused by aging lubricant inside the mechanism itself. If you ignore this, then over time you may notice an increase in this crunch, which means increased wear. In this case, the CV joint should be replaced with a new one.

If you need to replace the CV joint, contact the V-STUDIO car service. Qualified specialists of our car service center have extensive experience and can guarantee you a responsible attitude towards your car and a professional approach to the task. It should also be noted that modern equipment, high-quality consumables and spare parts are used for work. By contacting the V-STUDIO car service, our specialists will repair your car of any degree of complexity, with high quality in the shortest possible time.

What to do if the boot breaks on the road

The situation is not uncommon: you had to change a tire while on the road and you noticed that the boot was torn. It is highly not recommended to leave “everything as it is” and go to the nearest car service: CV joint is not a cheap part at all, especially if it is on an expensive foreign car. Options:

1. Place the car on a jack (if it is not already on it), pull out the old contaminated grease through the hole and fill the boot with grease until it stops, and to prevent it from falling out when driving, wrap the problem area with a plastic bag and tighten it along the corrugation with a rope.
2. Wrap the torn case with opaque tape or electrical tape. This “alternative” will last for 500 kilometers until the boot is changed.

On the road, check whether your “winding” is in place: getting dirt under it will sharply reduce the life of the CV joint.

Sources

• https://djago.ru/transmissiya/zamena-pylnika-naruzhnogo-shrusa/
• https://NaDomkrat.ru/ustroistvo-avtomobiley/hodovaya/zamena-shrusa-vaz-2114
• https://AutoTopik.ru/vaz/823-zamena-pylnika-naruzhnogo-shrusa-vaz.html
• https://remontvazov.com/zamena-shrusa-i-ego-pylnika
• https://www.vaz-zona.ru/zamena-shrusa/
• https://KrutiMotor.ru/zamena-shrus-vaz-2114-svoimi-rukami-zamena-granaty-vaz-2114/

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Advice from experienced motorists

Experience is an invaluable thing that can be useful to you in the process of operating and repairing a car. But if you don’t have your own yet, you can use the experience and skills of experienced motorists. They have repeatedly faced situations similar to yours. Failure of a CV joint is definitely no exception.

There are some useful tips on this matter that are worth listening to.

If you hear a characteristic crunch while driving in a straight line, it means the CV joint has failed. If this crunching noise is heard only when turning, then the problem lies in a faulty joint. Before installing a new CV joint, treat the grenade landing site with lubricant. This significantly extends its service life. To adjust the CV joint and seat it properly, use wooden attachments. If this is not done, the risk of damaging the new element is very high. The boot should be installed as tightly and efficiently as possible. If you don't do this, dirt and dust will soon get there. These components will quickly render it unusable, and repair work will have to be carried out again. The lock nut on the hub is tightened with a special torque tool

Moreover, the tightening is carried out strictly with the parameters specified in the operating manual for your modification of the VAZ 2114. During a routine inspection of the technical condition of your car, be sure to pay attention to the condition of the clamps and rubber elements to ensure their integrity. Such seemingly insignificant components can lead to serious consequences and significant financial costs. The purchase of spare parts, including CV joints, should be made only from trusted sellers, certified distributors

If you buy a bad, low-quality part, just trying to save money, you will have to pay even more to eliminate the consequences that the use of such elements led to.

The CV joint is an important component of any car, and replacing it even on your own is not particularly difficult.

Replacing the inner CV joint with your own hands

» alt=»»> The procedure for replacing a “grenade” is the same for the entire front-wheel drive VAZ line, starting with 2108 and ending with VAZ-2115, “Kalina”, “Priora”, “Grant”. Before removing the inner CV joint, the oil is drained from the gearbox. Then proceed according to the following algorithm:

1. Unlock and unscrew the hub nut. To make the work easier, a piece of pipe about 1 meter long should be put on the key.
2. The desired side of the car is hung on a jack or lift.
3. Remove the wheel.
4. Remove the washer located under the hub nut installation site.
5. Disconnect the steering tip.
6. The CV joint is removed from the hub.
7. Using a pry bar, remove the drive and internal joint from the gearbox.

How to change the “grenade” with the drive removed? To do this, clamp the shaft in a vice, loosen the clamps and remove the boot. After this, the hinge is knocked off the splines with hammer blows.

The new CV joint should be hammered by applying light blows to its end with a hammer. For this it is better to use a wooden mallet. The “grenade” is first filled with a special lubricant.

Before installing a new constant velocity joint, it is necessary to clean its seat from old grease and install a new boot. Assembly is carried out in reverse order.

The repair is considered complete after successful sea trials. In this case, there should be no extraneous sounds from the drive side in all modes of vehicle movement.

Replacing CV joints VAZ 2113, 2114, 2115

If you do not regularly check and change the boot, then frequent replacement of the VAZ 2114, 2115 or 2113 CV joint is inevitable. Therefore, it is necessary to constantly clean this element from dirt, dust, reagents, sand and moisture. Other reasons for the failure of the hinge are: exhaustion of the unit's service life, damage to the retaining ring, and others. But, no matter what the problem, if you hear a characteristic crunching sound when turning when you take turns at speed, you need to urgently carry out restoration work. Otherwise, there is a high risk of the grenade breaking into two halves while the vehicle is moving. In case of this malfunction, repairing it yourself is quite possible. This article will tell you how to fix the problem. But first you need to understand how the CV joint works.

Required spare parts

Depending on the volume of work - failure of one grenade or simultaneous replacement of the internal and external CV joints of a VAZ 2114, 2113 or 2115, you may need the following spare parts:

• external grenade (items 2108-2215012-86, 21080221501286, 2110-2215012, CV-P 1001 K, 302040);
• internal hinge (items 2108-2215056-86, 21080221505686, 2108-2215056, FJ228, 302315);
• for replacing CV joint boots on VAZ 2114 and other models (article 2108-2215030, 2110-2215068, 21100221506800, 2108-2215068).

The price of the unit varies over a wide range - from 1 thousand to 2.7 thousand rubles.

Tools required for repairs

To replace the boot of the outer or inner CV joint of a VAZ 2114, 2113 or 2115 or the entire assembly, you need to prepare the following tool:

• jack;
• keys for 17 and 19;
• wheel wrench;
• pliers;
• mount;
• set of heads;
• knob;
• lubricant;
• rags.

The time and effort spent on independent work is fully justified, since the price of replacing a VAZ 2114, 2113 or 2115 CV joint at a car service ranges from 1,200 to 1,800 rubles. These amounts are comparable to the cost of the node itself. The cost of replacing the inner and outer CV joint boot of a VAZ 2114 and other models is similar to the cost of installing a new spare part (tariffs are current as of May 9, 2019).

Order of Operations

Replacing the outer CV joint of a VAZ 2114, 2113 or 2115 is similar to working with an internal grenade. They are located on the shaft drive, which must be reached by performing many operations:

1. To replace the outer CV joint of a VAZ 2114, if there is no inspection hole or overpass, you need to jack up the car and unscrew the bearing nut. IMG3

You need to remove the wheel; it can be used together with a jack for support.

Now you need to unscrew the 2 brake caliper bolts. One is located at the top, the other at the bottom.

The next operation is to separate the brake pads. This can be done using a flat-head screwdriver.

You need to remove the brake caliper along with the caliper and pads. The entire knot needs to be tied so that it does not hang.

Now unscrew the steering end nut and press it out using a puller.

Unscrew the two ball joint bolts, remove the wheel bearing nut, and remove the washer.

Now you need to unscrew the ball joint fastening in the direction of the steering knuckle, remove the grenade from the bearing hole, and pull out the shaft. If jerking doesn’t work, we help with a screwdriver. If the oil is not drained before work, the hole can be plugged with a rag.

The shaft needs to be carefully cleaned of the old grease, remove the old ring, put on a new boot, a new retaining ring.

Take a new grenade, squeeze new lubricant into its cavity, spread it over the surface, and install the hinge on the shaft.

Now you need to hammer the grenade onto the shaft. This is done using a punch. You need to pull the boot onto the CV joint, fix the clamp against the direction of movement of the car, and compress it using pliers.

The small clamp is fixed identically. Now you need to install a new retaining ring on the hinge. The unit is ready for installation. The CV joint together with the shaft is inserted into the box. If you used a rag, you must first remove it.

Let's summarize

From the above, it is obvious that replacing a VAZ 2114 CV joint with your own hands is quite affordable. The activities take little time, provided you know how to handle the tool and have common sense. To ensure that repairs do not have to be performed frequently, you need to not only regularly check the condition of the boot. But also change the lubricant. Experts recommend doing this at least every 100 thousand kilometers.

Further steps are performed in reverse order. Also see the sequence of replacing the CV joint on a VAZ 2114, 2113 or 2115 in this video: