The VAZ-2110 stove does not work: reasons

The car interior heater (stove) is intended not only to create comfortable conditions for the driver and passengers in cold weather. Its role is also to ensure proper visibility by blowing warm air onto the windshield, removing frost and moisture from it. In severe frost, you are unlikely to be able to drive normally without the heater on.

But sometimes it happens that the stove refuses to work, and at the most inopportune moment. Unfortunately, this is not uncommon for our cars.

If you suddenly discover that the stove in your VAZ-2110 has stopped working, do not rush to the service station, take a few minutes to diagnose it yourself. If you're lucky, you can fix it yourself, but if not, then at least you'll know what the problem is.

Design features of the VAZ-2110 heater

The design of the ventilation and heating system for the interior of the “Ten” differs significantly from the cars of the “Samara” family. It is more complex, but also more effective. Firstly, there is no heater tap, i.e. the coolant, circulating in a large circle, constantly enters its radiator. Therefore, if the VAZ-2110 stove does not work, you should not immediately turn to the faucet and look for it. The temperature of the air entering the cabin is regulated by a damper driven by an electric micromotor, which is controlled manually using a special regulator, and automatically by the vehicle controller.

Secondly, manual adjustment does not take place according to the “warmer or colder” principle, but by creating the desired temperature with a special switch.

Thirdly, in the cabin of the “tens” there is a temperature sensor, based on the readings of which, the electronic control unit of the car can independently regulate the temperature and distribute air flows.

VAZ 2110 heater blows cold, why?

Many owners of “ten” complain that at some point the stove constantly blows cold air and no amount of turning the handles of the automatic heater control system can save the situation. There can be a lot of problems and malfunctions. For example, the ACS controller itself is faulty, the ceiling sensor or micro-geared motor is faulty and simply does not open or close the damper. Another reason is the air (air lock) in the heater radiator, which is simply not capable of heating the air passing through it. Below is a schematic representation of the VAZ 2110 heater device .

Heater dampers VAZ 2110

Often the cause of poor performance of the “tens” heater is the damper of the VAZ 2110 heater . The damper may not close tightly or open poorly. The heater flap itself is made of plastic, which can become warped and perform poorly over time. Many car owners buy a metal damper and change it themselves. How to check the functionality and evaluate the condition of the heater damper? Everything is quite simple, remove the central air duct deflector and there you have it - a damper! Let's look at the photo.

Next, carefully inspect the damper, turn on the stove, turn the controls on the ACS unit and see if the damper works at all. How does it move, does it fit tightly. If she does not respond to commands, then the problem may not be her at all. For one thing, you can see if the lever for redirecting the air flow from the glass to the feet works.

Heater fan VAZ 2110

It is quite simple to determine the performance of a stove fan by looking at the noise. If the fan motor burns out, then it naturally will no longer work. However, before rushing to change the stove fan, you need to make sure that the fuse has not blown. As we already wrote above, the fan of the VAZ 2110 stove is located not in the cabin, but in the engine compartment. To get to it, you will need to remove a special apron that separates the engine compartment from the heater housing, vacuum brake booster and windshield wiper mechanism. The actual photo is below for clarity.

So we got to the stove fan, removing the apron and heater casing. By the way, next to you you will see the cabin filter, in the housing a little to the left. It needs to be pulled out and cleaned. If no one has changed the filter before you, over many years of operation it is seriously clogged with debris and interferes with the normal circulation of air, which is sucked into the cabin of the VAZ 2110.

The VAZ-2110 stove does not work: reasons

Let's figure out what kind of heater malfunctions we may have to deal with. Let us immediately note that if the VAZ-2110 stove does not work, this does not mean that its entire structure has immediately failed. Usually the cause of this is the breakdown of one of its elements.

Before you begin diagnosing and searching for a possible problem, you need to clearly determine for yourself exactly how the VAZ-2110 stove does not work: it does not blow at all, it blows cold air, or it blows slightly warm air. Based on these signs, it will be possible to conclude which of these elements has failed: a fan, a control unit, a damper, a thermostat, a heater radiator, or even a cabin filter.

How to remake the stove on a VAZ-2110?

If you are fundamentally dissatisfied with the operation of the heater on your car, then you can modify it to suit your needs without any problems. If you are faced with the problem of insufficient airflow or fogging of windows in rainy weather, then you need to take action. Firstly, you should make sure that the heater is in good working order and is working normally; if not, then it needs to be repaired and only then proceed with active actions. The main reason why little air flows to the side windows is that most of the flow is lost in the gap. Accordingly, you need to disassemble the entire panel into parts and use foam to prevent air leakage. This is quite easy to do. Sometimes it makes sense to lay corrugation, but in practice this does not always work. At best, you can only warm the feet of the front passengers there.

Please also note that the airflow for the rear passengers’ feet also needs to be improved. But before you remake the stove on the VAZ-2110, you need to take care of the driver’s seat. Here you will be dealing with the so-called “herringbone”. It is in this case that it is advisable to use corrugation. Firstly, it will give the desired effect, and secondly, it takes up much less space of that very “Christmas tree”. It is desirable that the tube be no more than 40 millimeters in diameter, and if it is long, smooth inside. Otherwise, as air passes through it, it may whistle, which is not very pleasant.

Modification of damper and airflow

Many drivers may have encountered the problem that in very cold weather there is no way to regulate the uniform supply of warm air in all directions. So it turns out that either the side windows are covered with ice, or the legs freeze. For example, if the VAZ-21103 stove does not heat well, then the problem is obviously in the dampers. So, on vehicles that were produced after 2003, there is no such problem, but on those that came off the assembly line before, you will have to work with this. There is nothing complicated here; you will need to cut out the edges of the damper with a regular metal file (you don’t need to touch the windshield damper). You can also saw off a little bit from the flap that supplies air to the side windows. As a result, if you put the damper on the legs, then approximately 50% will go to the side windows, 25% to the legs, and another 25% to the windshield. If you install it on the windshield, it will blow only on it.

Another reason why the VAZ-21103 stove does not heat well is that the airflow is insufficient. Let's finalize it. For this you will need anthers, as well as a grille. Using an elastic band, we attach the grille to the boot, for which we use any suitable glue. We secure the boot on the reverse side with a clamp or tie and enjoy the result. This solution is not suitable for the driver’s seat, as it will heat up the right leg, but it’s perfect for passengers. Well, now let's move on, because we still have a lot to consider.

What's wrong with the fan

The first and most common reason why the VAZ-2110 stove does not work is the fan does not work. However, there may be several options here:

failed heater controller fuse;
malfunction of the mode switch on the control unit;
drive (electric motor) malfunction;
broken wiring.

Turn on the ignition and set the fan mode switch to any position except off. If at the same time you do not hear a characteristic hum and do not feel the movement of air from the deflectors, you can be sure: the reason that the VAZ-2110 stove is not working is that the heater fan is not working.

We identify the cause of the breakdown

First, you need to figure out the reason why the stove fan is not working. There may be several of them.

A faulty fuse is the most common, simple and most common reason that the motor does not turn. On the one hand, replacing a fuse is not a big and difficult problem, which can be easily handled even by a beginner. But on the other hand, it will be necessary to find the reason why the fuse has become unusable. And to do this, you will need to examine the electrical circuit that ensures the normal operation of the heating system for the presence of a short circuit. Since we are talking about fuses, it would be useful to know that the operation of the stove on the VAZ-2110 depends on fuse F7 with a current strength of 30 amperes. Also, the operation of this fuse determines the illumination of the glove compartment, the functioning of the cigarette lighter, the electric motor from the headlight washer and the heated rear window. If a short circuit is not found in the electrical circuit of the heating system, then the cause will need to be looked for throughout the wiring.
Problems with the contacts that are located inside the mounting block are a common reason for the VAZ heater motor not working. To identify this problem, you can move the block with the attached harnesses while the car is running. If the VAZ-2110 heater fan starts working, then it is necessary to remove the block and clean the contacts.

A problem with the contacts inside the mounting block is a common reason for a non-working fan.

A flooded relay may also be one of the reasons why the heater fan does not work. Diagnosing this problem is very simple: the fan will turn on only after the car has warmed up well. In this case, you will need to replace the relay, which is hidden behind the dashboard.
The heater electric motor can only operate when the third speed is activated. This situation is explained by the nature of the current supply to the fan: at speeds 1 and 2 this process is implemented through a resistor, and at speed 3 - directly. Consequently, if the heating does not work at the first two speeds, then the reason lies precisely in the resistor, which must be replaced.
The malfunction of the switch can be identified as follows: after removing the center console, start the car, take a large 12-volt light bulb with soldered wires, connect the negative wire from it to the body and touch the second wire to contacts 1, 2 and 3 on the additional resistor. When the light comes on, it indicates that the switch is working properly. But if the light bulb does not light up, then you will need to connect the wire from the light bulb to the positive terminal on the switch. If there is no light on the light bulb, you can talk about an open circuit or a faulty fuse.

A broken fan motor could also be the cause.

A faulty fan motor is the final cause that can result in a fan not working. Here we can consider three main reasons, the elimination of which may require replacing the motor, cleaning the contacts and replacing the brushes.

Checking the temperature sensor in the car shutter

To make sure that the air temperature sensor on the ceiling is working properly, you should take it and pass a current of 1.3 V through the plus and minus terminals. When you set the knobs that control the automatic control system of the stove to maximum and minimum values in certain positions, the fan does not spin in this case. If the automatic control system is working, then deactivate the shutter air sensor; in this situation, the fan power mode stops working.

Checking the operation of the automatic control system

To diagnose this system, you need to have a multimeter so you can measure the current on the pink and brown wires.
The voltage can have different values, it depends on which controller is built into the car. For example, in older cars - before 2002 - heater control controllers 1303.3854 were installed, in this case the voltage at the minimum position changes in about 14 seconds, and at the maximum value it is supplied stably. Therefore, if the voltage of the ACS unit at the output has a constant value, it is faulty. On newer cars since 2003, the built-in unit is 1323.3854, and the stove is 2111-8101012.

When faults are found in the controller, the dampers may be faulty. To determine other reasons for the breakdown of the car's 2110-12 heater, you will most likely need to disassemble the heater.

Diagnostics of heater system shutters VAZ 21I0

The VAZ 2110 stove has two shutters.
Through one, cold air is absorbed, and through the other, hot air is supplied. If the wire mechanism malfunctions, you may encounter the following disadvantages:

The stove doesn't heat well
There is no hot air flow at all,
high air supply temperature,
temperature is not regulated.

Shutters can have various types of breakdowns:

It happens that the damper gets stuck or malfunctions, and the micromotor gearbox can also fail.
Also, the damper may stop functioning due to rust, because there are two types of dampers.

There are old and modern samples of shutters,

old ones - made of plastic and sealed with foam rubber,
and modern ones are made of metal with a rubber seal.

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If you do not hear the damper operating, then try moving it after removing the deflector.

The disadvantage of metal dampers is that breakdowns often occur due to rust, while plastic ones tend to deform due to the supply of hot air.

In the case where the shutters do not move at all, diagnose the microdetector.

Checking the micro-reducer of the stove shutter

To check the shutter drive, have an ohmmeter with you.
In old-style automatic control system controllers, the resistance at the minimum value of blue current should be from 850 to 1250 Ohms, in modern ones - 3.4-5.6 kOhms. If you want to check, you need to set the air supply temperature mark to the minimum value and hold for about 20 seconds. Disconnect the controller connector and, with the motor running, measure the difference in resistance in contacts XI.4 and XI.1. At the maximum temperature value in old controllers, the multimeter shows a resistance of 3.1 to 5 kOhm, in new ones - 1.3-1.5 kOhm. If the resistance does not change the readings or is absent altogether, this will indicate a malfunction of the micro-reducer shaft location sensor, which is associated with erasing the tracks, or a malfunction of the automatic control system itself, as a result of which no current flows to the micro-reducer.

In order to replace the micro-reducer you need to disassemble the stove.

Checking the resistance resistor

The stove resistor has two spirals with different resistances, the first has 0.24 Ohms, the second has 0.81 Ohms.
If these two spirals are activated simultaneously, then the electric motor of the stove operates in the first temperature mode, and if only on the first spiral, the second speed operates. If the electric motor is turned on without the help of a resistor, then the fan rotor operates in the third position - the most powerful.

The reason for the malfunction of the stove fan (operation in one mode)

You can find out why the stove in the VAZ 21I0 works only in the third position or exclusively in the first and second without disassembling. If such a problem occurs, then find the position of the resistance resistor. In the first and second modes, the fan operates using a resistor, and in the third - directly. Hence the answer that the cause could be either a burnt resistor, or the tracks in the speed switch were erased, as well as on the temperature controller.

Checking the fuse

Let's start with the simplest. We lift the hood and find a mounting block there, and in it there is an F-18 fuse. It must be removed from the mounting socket and checked for suitability with a tester. There is another way to check, and it is much simpler. In the “ten”, this fuse is responsible for the safety of not only the heater controller, but also the glove compartment illumination lamp, as well as the cigarette lighter.

Turn on the ignition, open the glove compartment and look at the lamp. If it used to burn, but now it doesn’t, most likely the reason is the same why the VAZ-2110 stove does not work. Heater fan fuses are rated at 25 A. Please note this when replacing.

Fan repair (step by step)

The disassembly technology is very simple, but proceed carefully. Since electric motor failure lies in the wear of bearings and graphite brushes, let’s consider how to replace these elements:

Let's disassemble the electric motor. To do this, first remove the impeller, and then the two spring clamps of the motor support.
We remove the support.
Unscrew the screws securing the brush assembly and remove it.
Carefully knock out the rotor.
We clean the elements from dust and dirt.
From the inside of the stator, carefully bend the edges of the plate holding the bearing.
We knock out the bearing and install a new one in its place (for replacement you need bearing No. 609).
We bend the edges of the plate back.
We inspect the condition of the collector plates on the rotor and, if necessary, sand them with sandpaper (fine-grained).
We replace the worn brushes with new ones (we solder the wires of the worn ones, and in their place we solder the wires of the new elements).
We bend the stops of the brush springs (this will allow you to easily install the brush assembly in place).
We put the rotor in place.
We install and fix the brush assembly, having previously seated the brushes in their seats.
We install brush springs into the holes that covered the stops and bend the stops back.
Install the fan support and impeller.
We install the repaired fan on the car.

As you can see, it is not difficult to repair the VAZ-2110 heater fan, and this task can be handled in a garage, even without special skills in car repair.

Source

Switch, actuator and wiring

Checking that the fan switch is working is a little more difficult. To do this, you will need to remove the control unit and use a tester in ohmmeter mode to diagnose the variable resistance resistor.

To check the electric drive itself, you need to remove the decorative trims near the windshield from the outside and dismantle the electric motor. You can determine its serviceability by connecting the drive contacts directly to the battery terminals.

As for the wiring, its integrity is checked with the same tester in voltmeter mode at the contacts of the fan motor. If there is voltage on them (in the drive on mode), then the wiring is intact. Otherwise, it is better to contact an auto electrician.

Checking the automatic control system

Diagram of the automatic heater control system : 1 – fan electric motor;
2 – additional resistor; 3 – controller; 4 – mounting block; 5 – ignition switch; 6 – cabin air temperature sensor; 7 – recirculation switch; 8 – recirculation valve; 9 – micromotor gearbox for heater damper drive; A – to the instrument lighting switch; B – to power supplies Pinout of automatic control system :

The SAUO receives information from:

– cabin air temperature sensor (No. 6), which has a built-in small-sized fan.
– MMR (micromotor reducer) (No. 9), information about the position of the heater damper.

Damper control : Based on the received information and the set air temperature, the controller controls the position of the heater damper, sending appropriate signals to the damper drive micromotor.

Fan speed control : to obtain a low rotation speed (all but the last), an additional resistor (No. 2) is used, which has two spirals with resistance (0.23 and 0.82 Ohms). When both spirals are connected to the electric motor power supply circuit, the 1st fan rotation speed is ensured; if a spiral with a resistance of 0.23 Ohm is turned on, the 2nd speed is provided. When the electric motor is turned on without a resistor, the fan rotor rotates at the maximum 3rd speed (4100 min-1).

Cold air: actuator or damper

If the VAZ-2110 stove does not work and cold air is blowing, first of all we check whether the drive is trying to change the position of the damper. To do this, turn on the ignition and rotate the position switch. In this case, you should hear whether the electric micromotor is running and whether the damper is moving. If nothing like this happens, you need to look for the problem in the switch itself, checking it for serviceability, or in the drive motor. In any case, you will have to dismantle the entire heater.

If you hear that the damper drive is working, but it does not change its position, most likely it is simply jammed. In the “tens” there may be two types of dampers: plastic and metal. And if the latter jam quite rarely, then for the plastic ones that were equipped with the first series of VAZ-2110, this is a common occurrence. The fact is that plastic is deformed under the influence of hot air, which, in fact, leads to jamming. To correct the situation, you will have to dismantle and disassemble the heater.

SAUO repair

Before repairing the SAUO VAZ 2110 unit, you should make sure that the problems with the stove are associated with it. To do this, you should connect a known working heater control unit (borrow from a friend or from a store). If there are no problems with the stove with the working unit of the automatic control system, then we try to find out what the reason is. If the obviously working unit of the automatic control system did not help, then the problem with the stove is somewhere else.

Remove the buttons next to the SAUO block. We take out the stove control unit. Set the controls to position 0 and remove, and then remove the front cover and glass from the latches. Unscrew 2 screws in front and 1 in back.

We remove the board from the plastic case and check the integrity of all tracks, jumpers and resistors.
In this example, a broken jumper was found. We solder it on one side and the other. Reassemble in reverse order. Now all speeds of the SAUO block work .

FAQ on the operation of the VAZ 2110 stove

1st oven speed does not work

All heater fan speeds (except the last one) are connected through an additional heater resistor, which is located under the frill (wind flap). One of the reasons when the first speed of the heater does not work is a malfunction of this resistor. Depending on the ACS unit, this additional resistor varies:

RDO 2108-8101081 is used on the oldest SAUO units, which have only 2 speeds. (0 A 1 2). RDO 2110-8118022-01 is installed on a modified heater until September 2003, the SAUO unit has 3 speeds (0 A 1 2 3). The most common malfunction in this resistance is that all stove speeds stop working, except maximum 3. The reason is that the thermal fuse is unsoldered (indicated by a red arrow), and is treated by soldering it in place. But if it is unsoldered later, you need to look in the direction of the motor, the motor takes a very large current (not lubricated, wear on the brush assembly, etc.). RDO 2123-2118022 has been installed on the latest heaters since September 2003, the SAUO unit has 4 speeds and does not have an auto mode (0 1 2 3 4).

In addition to a malfunction of the additional heater resistor, the problem may also be in the contacts of the heater control unit board. Often, due to high temperatures, the board becomes very hot and the contact is soldered off. Carefully examine all contacts on the boards, especially at the power supply points.
Clean contacts.

Heater speed 2 doesn't work

The reason is exactly the same as in the case when the first heater speed does not work.

3rd speed heater doesn't work

If the 3rd speed is the last, then it works without resistance (directly). And the problem may be in the contacts of the ACS unit (stripped/crimped), or in the contacts on the board of the ACS unit.
If you have a stove control unit with 4 fan speeds (0 1 2 3 4), then look for problems with the 1st stove speed.

Thermostat and heater core

The reason why the VAZ-2110 stove does not work may be a malfunction of one of the elements of the cooling system. We are talking about the thermostat and the heater radiator. In the first case, the coolant will circulate in a small circle due to a thermostat malfunction. Naturally, it will not get into the heater radiator. As a result, cold air will enter the cabin.

Checking the thermostat is easy. To do this, warm up the engine to operating temperature and raise the hood. Touch the lower radiator hose. It should be hot (warm). If it is cold, we can say with confidence that the stove in the VAZ-2110 stopped working precisely because the thermostat was stuck in the closed position. If the pipe is warm, the problem should be looked for further.

Another reason why the VAZ-2110 stove does not work may be a malfunction of its radiator. Most often, it becomes impassable or not completely passable for the coolant carrying heat. This happens due to the deposition of scale and dirt on the inner surface of its tubes.

To check the heater core, warm up the engine and locate its two hoses in the engine compartment. Touch them with your hand. They should both be hot. If the inlet is hot and the outlet is cold or lukewarm, the radiator is clogged. The problem of its obstruction is solved either by washing using special liquids, or by replacing the element.

Problem solving

Now let's talk about how to solve emerging issues, troubleshoot problems and return the heater to normal operation.

Each breakdown requires separate consideration.

Broken motor

The VAZ-2110 stove does not work

If the stove on a VAZ-2110 has completely stopped working, this may indicate a failure of one of the elements of the heating system. In this case, to determine the cause of the malfunction, you will have to check the functioning of absolutely all parts of the heating system. This is a labor-intensive task and requires the performer to have certain knowledge of electronics. It is also necessary to understand the technology of functioning of the car’s heating system.

Diagram of the automatic heater control system: 1 – fan electric motor; 2 – additional resistor; 3 – controller; 4 – mounting block; 5 – ignition switch; 6 – cabin air temperature sensor; 7 – recirculation switch; 8 – recirculation valve; 9 – micromotor gearbox for heater damper drive; A – to the instrument lighting switch; B – to power supplies

Most often, the VAZ-2110 stove does not work due to a fan failure. It can be easily replaced with a new product. In second place is the thermostat, which is also replaced in case of malfunction.

Failure of a vehicle's heater in most cases results in the need for major repairs. In this case, you need to calculate the possible costs of purchasing new parts and compare them with the price of a new stove. Experts recommend that if the stove fails completely, it should be completely replaced. Very often, the VAZ-2110 is equipped with stoves from the VAZ-2112 that are more advanced in design features and technical characteristics.

The temperature in the VAZ-2110 cabin is not regulated

Sometimes there are situations when the heater cannot be adjusted. Regardless of the position of the temperature regulator on the control panel, the stove either blows cold air or produces only a hot stream. Such discomfort may be caused by a malfunctioning temperature sensor or a failure of the heater damper.

You can check the operation of the sensor by turning the temperature regulator several times to the extreme maximum position. If the situation has not changed, then it is necessary to replace the sensor, which is located on the ceiling of the car, next to the ceiling light.

Temperature sensor in the passenger compartment of a VAZ-2110 car

Sometimes the VAZ-2110 stove does not heat up or only works at maximum speed due to a failure of the heater damper. In this case, it is necessary to remove the deflectors from the engine compartment, bend the fastening antennae and get to the valve. Often the damper gets stuck in one position, and it does not respond to the regulator inside the cabin. Then you need to try to move the stuck part. If it moves without effort, then the problem must be looked elsewhere.

The cause of the malfunction may be deformation of the damper due to high temperatures. Then it is necessary to replace the plastic valve that the car is equipped with from the factory with a more reliable aluminum part.

The heater damper micro-reducer may also be the culprit of the malfunction. If it fails, it will be impossible to adjust the temperature in the cabin. You can check this by removing the windshield trim and frill from the engine compartment. After this, it is necessary to test the movement of the damper lever when switching heater modes in the cabin. If the damper lever moves, then the micro-gearbox is working. Otherwise, it must be replaced.

If the VAZ-2110 stove does not work in any mode other than the maximum one, then the cause of the breakdown may be a failure of the heater resistor. The resistor may fail due to overvoltage in the network. The resistor is located on the right side of the stove. To replace it or diagnose it, it is necessary to dismantle the windshield cover and the vacuum booster. After this, using an ohmmeter, the resistance on the coils, which are responsible for converting the current into the required voltage for the correct operation of the heating system, is checked. If the indicators differ from the norm, then it is necessary to replace the product with a new resistor.

And also the problem may be in the disconnection of the fuse, which is located on the resistor board. In this case, you can eliminate the malfunction by soldering, however, you must first find the cause of the blown fuse. It may be in oxidized contacts or poor wiring insulation. Initially, you need to diagnose all elements of the heater's electrical circuit using a tester, find the weak link and eliminate the malfunction. Poor operation of the heater's electrical components can cause a short circuit or fire.

The VAZ-2110 stove blows cold air

Often, owners of domestic cars are faced with a situation where only cold air enters the cabin through the heater deflectors, regardless of the temperature setting. In most cases, the heater blows cold air after replacing or adding coolant. The cause of this malfunction is air entering the heating system of the vehicle.

If the coolant is replaced incorrectly, an air lock forms in the radiator pipes and hoses, which must be eliminated. This is not difficult to do. It is necessary to drive the car onto a hill or overpass, so that its front end is as high as possible. After this, you need to let the car idle for several minutes, periodically you need to gas it. In this way, the air lock can be expelled from the system.

Then you need to check the antifreeze level and, if necessary, add it to the required level in the expansion tank. Often, after carrying out such actions, the stove begins to work properly.

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The windows fog up, the feet are not heated

It is not uncommon for VAZ models to have a problem when air flows normally from the stove, but it does not heat the feet and does not flow onto the windows.

Modification of air ducts

The issue can be resolved by upgrading your air ducts and getting rid of existing gaps in the cabin and warm air intake channels. This is a rather complicated procedure, the implementation of which will allow you to forget for a very long time about the problem with the stove, which does not warm your feet and does not blow on the side windows.

It would not be superfluous to install a pre-start heater. Due to it, the interior warms up faster.

Supplying a weak air flow into the car interior

Owners of VAZ-2110 cars are often faced with a situation where both warm and cold air is supplied to the cabin, but under very low pressure. Accordingly, heating or ventilation of the interior requires significantly more time than during normal operation of the heating system. If the heater does not blow well, the cause of this malfunction may be a clogged heater radiator or vehicle cabin filter.

First, you need to check the condition of the cabin filter of the car. In dozens, it is most often located behind the glove compartment on the passenger side. If it is heavily polluted, then air flows through it poorly and provokes problems with the interior heating system. Contamination of a car's cabin filter can be eliminated in two ways. The first is high-quality cleaning of the filter and installing it in its original seat. However, this method is less effective. The problem will reoccur a few weeks later. A more correct solution is to replace the cabin filter with a new product. Moreover, the filter must be changed every fifteen thousand kilometers or twice a year.

Cabin filter of the VAZ-2110 car, requiring replacement

If after replacing the cabin filter the problem does not disappear, then you need to check the condition of the heater radiator. This is more difficult to do, since you will have to disassemble almost the entire heater from the engine compartment side. Poor flow of coolant in the radiator can be caused by both small particles of debris that can get into it, and the formation of scale inside the product. Antifreeze leakage through holes in the radiator may also be the reason for poor operation of the stove.

If the radiator is clogged with debris or scale, the problem can be eliminated by washing the product with special means. If there is a coolant leak, experts advise immediately replacing the radiator with a new part. Fixing the problem by soldering the radiator will help solve the problem for a very short period of time, after which the antifreeze will leak out again and you will have to re-disassemble almost half of the engine compartment to install a new part. It is also necessary to immediately check the condition of the hoses and pipes that go to the heater radiator and, if necessary, replace them.

Coolant leaks

The stove may not heat up due to the fact that the level of coolant, that is, coolant, decreases. Do not rush to add antifreeze to the tank. First, be sure to check for signs of leakage in the pipes and connections.

Problems with the stove on a VAZ 2110

If your radiator is leaking, the news is not good for you. You will have to dismantle it and, most likely, replace it with a new one.

The heater is very noisy

Many owners of the domestic “ten” are faced with a situation where a working stove makes a lot of noise. In this case, everything works fine, air flows spread throughout the cabin in the same way as the regulators are set.

The noise does not affect efficiency, but it becomes seriously annoying over time. Sometimes it seems that the stove will be covered with a copper basin, although it can make noise for a long time without consequences for the integrity of the device.

Let's try to figure out why it makes noise.

If the noise is similar to a squeal, or the sounds are sharp, check the fastening of the lower part of the stove. The fact is that fastening is carried out using hooks that can come off. This is what makes the noise.
The heater body sometimes gets damaged by the protrusions holding the retainer. In this case, the housing simply needs to be replaced with a new one.
If the fan itself is noisy, remove it, clean it, and check the condition of the electric motor.
The textolite washers, which are designed to prevent axial play of the fan, may also hum. Any low friction washers will be suitable as a replacement. For example, elements made of fluoroplastic. Be sure to lubricate the washer. Some people use regular machine oil, but it really only gives a temporary effect. The best lubricant in this case would be thick graphite grease or lithol.

Only hot air blows

Most often, the stove only blows hot air in a VAZ 2110 due to the fault of the car owner. If you recently bought a car, and in the summer you first tried the heater in cold air mode, you may notice that only a hot stream comes out of it.

The stove only blows hot air

This is due to the fact that the problem of damage to the damper micromotor was not solved in the best way. This micromotor is responsible for driving the damper and is located in the engine compartment in close proximity to the windshield. To get to it, you need to remove the frill and insulation.

Check to see if it is even there. Sometimes the micromotor gears wear out and the teeth do not touch each other. It is recommended to replace such motors. But some solve the problem differently - they remove the motor and turn on the damper manually. Yes, you can operate a car in this mode in winter.

But you should understand that because of this, the stove will constantly work in heating mode, driving hot air around the cabin. Therefore, switching to manual mode is a temporary measure, which should soon develop into a full-fledged replacement of the damper micromotor.

The heater on the VAZ 2110 is a very important unit that is responsible for the comfort and warmth of the driver and his passengers. Therefore, if signs of malfunction appear, do not delay stove repair. Especially if the cold season is approaching, and driving without heating will be very problematic.

It doesn't hurt to check the filter too.

The cabin filter can also cause the heater to not operate efficiently. Some car owners do not pay attention to this element of the ventilation system for years, although even for their own sake they must replace it along with other consumables.

A clogged cabin filter creates serious resistance to air intake, as a result of which the fan may not cope with its task. In this case, both cold and hot air will flow into the cabin in a weak flow.

For what reasons may the fan stop functioning?

If the car heater fan stops working, then several main causes of the malfunction should be analyzed. The fuse may have become unusable. It is a burnt-out part that most often damages the stove fan. And although replacing it is quite easy even for a car owner with little experience, this event is quite troublesome and time-consuming. This is explained by the fact that it is difficult to find the place where the short circuit occurred, because to do this you need to go through the entire heating system. It will not be superfluous to know that the protective fuse must be responsible for the operation of the following elements of the car:

Glovebox.
Cigarette lighter.
The system responsible for heating the rear windows and mirrors.
Headlight washer.

And this indicates that if it is not possible to detect a breakdown in the injector, then you will have to look through all the wires that feed the above elements.

Poor quality assembly of the internal parts of the main mounting block is also often the cause. It happens that the fan fails or poorly blows warm air into the cabin due to internal oxidation of the contacts, which occurs when the main unit of the car furnace is poorly assembled.

To make sure that the cause of the malfunction is oxidation, you need to move the device flagella along with the block to which they are attached with a little force. If during this manipulation the device begins, albeit weakly, but still to force warm air into the car interior, then to repair the fan it will be enough to remove the block, clean all the contacts and install it in its original place.

Useful tips

Finally, here are a few tips that may help extend the life of your car's interior heater.

To prevent a malfunction from catching you by surprise, check the functionality of the stove even in warm weather when it is not in use.
Pay attention to the functionality of the cigarette lighter and the glove box light. If they malfunction, check the stove as well.
Monitor the temperature of the coolant in the system. Remember that its overheating may indicate a non-working thermostat, and this can lead not only to problems with heating the interior, but also to failure of the entire engine.
Do not fill the system with low-quality coolant. This will sooner or later lead to the formation of scale and obstruction of the heater radiator.
Change the cabin filter along with the oil and fuel filters according to the routine maintenance schedule.

Repair recommendations

So, we have dealt with the causes of malfunctions of the VAZ 2110 stove, now let’s move on directly to troubleshooting the problems.

Malfunction 1.

Problems with temperature control are one of the most common causes of malfunction. In most cases, this is caused by a failure of the control unit or damper.

How to proceed in this case?

Check the functionality of the temperature sensor (it is located on the ceiling, near the interior lamp).

It is because of its malfunction that the required command may not reach the damper.

Diagnosing a sensor malfunction is simple - move the control knob from one extreme position to another. In this case, it is necessary to monitor whether the temperature of the outgoing air changes.

There can be two options here - the temperature does not change at all, or the air begins to warm up only when the handle is in the extreme (maximum) position.

In the first case, repairing the VAZ 2110 stove by replacing the sensor alone will not cost you - you need to look for another reason.

In the second case, we can confidently talk about the failure of the controller itself.

Malfunction 2.

Failure of the gear motor.

If, when the heating is turned on, only cold air enters the cabin, then there are obvious problems with the stove.

In 9 out of 10 cases, the cause of such a malfunction is the failure of the gearmotor. Typically, replacing this element allows the system to return to full functionality.

The sequence of actions will be as follows:

Remove the windshield wipers;
Remove the frill (to do this, you need to unscrew three screws);
Disconnect the wires from the gearmotor;
Remove the old one, install and connect the new device.

This is interesting: Repairing a Ford Explorer and Jeep Liberty will cost a pretty penny

For greater convenience, it is better to hire a partner as an assistant - he will adjust the air from the cabin.

The procedure for removing the gearmotor of the VAZ 2110 stove.

Malfunction 3.

Heater failure.

Sometimes the cause of a malfunction of the VAZ 2110 stove can be the heater itself. To verify this (or refute the assumption), it is necessary to dismantle the main deflector.

This is easy to do - just bend the special fasteners and move the flap (you can crawl up to it from the side of the engine compartment).

If the radiator breaks down and needs to be replaced, you will have to disassemble the entire stove (if you wish, you can do this work yourself).

Malfunction 4.

Poor quality of air heating by the stove.

If you are not satisfied with the VAZ 2110 stove in terms of the speed and quality of air heating, then you should take a few simple steps:

firstly
, do not be greedy with money to buy a high-quality aluminum damper (it’s better to throw away the old “piece of plastic” right away). Such a replacement eliminates the curvature of the damper when switching and, accordingly, helps conserve heat;

secondly
, install a new heater (the factory type is not of high quality). The most preferable option is to purchase heaters from a VAZ-2112-1 or 2112-2. But there are some disadvantages here too. The first type does not have a cleaning filter, and the second type does not have a recirculation function. Each of the filters described above can easily “go away” 15 thousand kilometers;
thirdly
, it wouldn’t hurt to spend money on installing pre-start heaters, or many people call such a device an antifreeze heater. Their task is to preheat the interior and engine.

Malfunction 5.

Insufficient airflow in the area of the side windows and feet.

According to the complaints of many car enthusiasts, the VAZ 2110 stove does not warm up the legs and windows enough. In such a situation, the only way out is to improve the air channels inside the car.

You must act in the following sequence:

1. Make sure the stove is working. Only after this does it make sense to modernize the system.
2. Dismantle the panels completely and disassemble them into small components.

3. If there are cracks (slots) in the panel, seal them or install a new hose. But in most cases, the first option is quite sufficient.

4. Inspect the top and bottom of the panel carefully. If there are cracks, they must be carefully treated with anti-creak. Try to do everything efficiently, because you won’t have time to return to this work later. The fastening points and holes must also be carefully taped.
5. Remove the damper along with the factory seal. Now carefully glue the valve using modelin and process the existing gaps (including on the driver’s side).
6. Inspect the air ducts that go to the feet. If there are cracks, seal them.
7. Remove the factory air distributor, insert corrugated tubes into the holes and seal everything with foam for security. Particular attention must be paid to the pipe - it must have a thickness of at least four centimeters in diameter.

8. As a result, you get three tubes, one of which goes back to the passengers, and the other two go to the driver and front passenger. All that remains is to put everything back in place.

Other Possible Causes

These include the following options:

Liquid entering the car ignition relay. One effective piece of advice will help you find out that the fan is failing precisely because the relay is flooded. If a previously “stalled” fan began to function again as soon as the car engine had been running for 20-25 minutes, that is, after the vehicle had warmed up, then we can say with confidence that the cause of the malfunction is precisely the flooding. To get rid of this problem, it is necessary to replace the ignition system relay that has become unusable.
If during testing it turns out that the fan operates only at one speed, namely the third, then you will need to check the serviceability of the additional resistor. This element supplies voltage directly to the fan only in the 3rd speed mode, so if the device cannot be started in the 1st and 2nd speed modes, this part will need to be replaced.
The car heater fan may stop working due to a breakdown of the switch, which is responsible for the functioning of the entire heating system. To verify this, you need to remove the central part of the console, start the engine and, using a light bulb whose power does not exceed 12 V, equipped with connecting wires and a wire to “-”, close it to the car body. And with the second wire, check the operation of all three contacts that belong to the additional resistor. If during the test the light stays on, then the switch can be considered serviceable; otherwise, you will need to replace the fuse and check the integrity of the electrical circuit.

If all of the above failure options have been analyzed, but the VAZ-2110 stove fan still does not work, you need to check several additional reasons:

serviceability of the electric motor of the device;
check the motor contacts;
make sure that the brushes are not stuck or stuck on the main body.

The information in this article indicates that identifying the cause of a breakdown of the VAZ-2110 stove fan is not so difficult.