How to remove the heater motor on a VAZ 2114 - replacing the heater motor

Appearance and location of the stove motor

The device is located in the middle of the so-called torpedo and is a small DC electric motor to which a fan protected by a plastic casing is attached. This motor has three operating modes and is designed to supply warm air to three zones: on the windshield, on the passengers’ feet, or directly into the cabin.

Heater motor of a VAZ 2114 car

Connection diagram, resistors and fan relays

In principle, changing a fan is not difficult, but you will have to remember your service in the army and the vocabulary of the duty officer. We have placed the technical characteristics of the fan and its connection diagram on the page, if this will somehow help with dismantling. Just in case, if anyone cannot find the original fan, the engine must develop at least 4200 rpm with a current consumption of no more than 14 amperes.

Whistling and howling can be different at different engine operating modes. This is because the connection diagram assumes the presence of a resistor with a resistance of 0.23 and 0.65 Ohms. One limits the current for low speed, and the other is used to obtain the second speed. But this is a theory.

When does the heater motor need to be replaced?

There are several signs that will tell a car owner that something is wrong with the heater motor. Here are the most common of them:

• When you try to turn on the stove, you cannot hear the hum of the motor, and this picture is observed at all three speeds.
• The motor supplies air at all speeds, but operates intermittently.
• The operation of the motor is stable, there are no interruptions in the supply of warm air, but instead of a uniform hum, extraneous sounds are heard, a grinding sound, which later develops into a piercing creak.

Examination

To make sure that the motor is the cause of the heating system malfunction, you should carry out a simple but indicative procedure:

• Start the car;
• Turn on the first, second and third speeds of the stove alternately;
• If there are no sounds indicating the start of the fan operation, the motor has failed;
• If the fan did not turn on at speeds 1 and 2, but started working at speed 3, then the cause of the problem may be a switch or an additional resistor.

Causes of failure

The motor may not work for several reasons. Each of them requires separate consideration. Therefore, we invite you to familiarize yourself with the possible causes of fan failure in our table.

Cause

It is important to know

The fuse has blown. The fuse F7 with a voltage of 30A is responsible for the stove. Replacing it is not difficult, but the main problem lies in the possible occurrence of a short circuit

This fuse is responsible for the lighting in the glove compartment, headlight washers, cigarette lighter, and heated mirrors. If it malfunctions, all of the specified devices will stop working. There is no contact in the mounting block. This is a common problem for cars that occurs as a result of oxidation of contacts or loss of connection strength. The ignition relay is stuck. The heater turns on only after the car has warmed up. Therefore, it is recommended to check the condition of the ignition relay if the fan is not working. If necessary, replace the relay. The stove turns on only at speed 3. Speeds 1 and 2 are turned on due to an additional resistor, and in mode 3 the current goes directly to the motor. In this situation, you should replace the additional resistor or check its contacts. The heater switch is broken. Here we are talking about problems with the electrical target or fuse. To check their condition, you can use a test lamp Problems in the design of the motor If everything is fine with the switch and current, but the fan does not respond, you should check the level of overheating of the motor, its contacts with ground or the brushes for sticking

This is interesting: Diagnostics of injectors - how to check it yourself: step-by-step instructions Depending on the troubles that arise, you may need to replace the fan. Changing the motor is not difficult, although to do this you must have some skill or at least minimal experience in working with the electrical equipment of your car.

The first step when replacing the heater motor is to disconnect the battery.

Motor location

Bearing wear

A sign of wear on the fan motor bearings is a characteristic hum. At the initial stage of the malfunction, this phenomenon usually does not affect the operation of the device in any way, but over time it will definitely develop into a more serious problem. Therefore, if you notice that the fan of the VAZ-2115 stove is humming, hurry to lubricate the bearings.

Brush wear and commutator destruction

The brushes supply electric current to the armature of the electric motor. They are made of graphite and are naturally subject to wear. If the electric motor operates in normal mode, they can last for 50-70 thousand kilometers. However, the influence of various negative factors reduces the service life of the latter several times.

Destruction of the commutator is most often a consequence of wear or distortion of the brushes. Restoring this element is quite problematic even for a specialist, therefore, if a similar problem is discovered, then replacing the stove fan for the VAZ-2115 will become inevitable.

Break or short circuit of windings

With windings the situation is even more complicated. If a collector malfunction can be identified visually, then you will have to measure the resistance in different areas, and even then it is not a fact that after identifying the problem it can be eliminated by rewinding. The best option in this case for the VAZ-2115 is to replace the heater fan. In addition, the new device will not be so expensive. An electric motor with an impeller costs about 1,100 rubles, with a casing – 1,300 rubles.

Important points

In order for the stove repair to proceed as quickly as possible, and its results not to disappoint the car owner, you should adhere to the rules below:

• When removing the old motor, be sure to turn it. If this is not done, part of its fastening may break and get stuck in the torpedo, or more precisely, in the mounting bracket. And getting to the stuck fragment will not be so easy.
• When tightening the mounting screws with a Phillips screwdriver, you should not use too much force: they are small, so the threads in their sockets can easily be stripped.

As practice shows, replacing an engine is not particularly difficult even for a novice car enthusiast if he has held a wrench and a screwdriver in his hands at least once in his life. The whole procedure takes 40–50 minutes maximum. The main thing is not to overdo it with tightening the fasteners, and everything will be fine.

Withdrawal procedure

1. Remove the left trim of the instrument panel console.
2. Disconnect the wires from the fan
3. Unscrew the nut securing the fan ground wire and remove the tip from the stud.
4. Remove the cabin filter.
5. Unscrew the 5 fastening screws and remove both parts of the air intake grille.
6. Remove the central grille holder.
7. Unscrew the 4 screws securing the protective casing.
8. Move the casing to the right and remove it from the box.
9. Unscrew the fan mounting screws.
10. Remove the 2 rubber pads that mount the fan.
11. Peel off the seal from one of the parts of the casing.
12. Remove the casing cushion.
13. Separate the casing into pieces.
14. We remove the fan wires from the stove body.
15. We take out the left side of the casing.
16. We take out the right side of the casing together with the fan from the box.
17. Remove the 2 spring mounts for the fan motor in the casing.
18. We take the fan motor out of the casing.
19. Before installing the fan in place, we install the motor in place and connect the casing.
20. Glue the sealing foam gasket to the second part of the casing.
21. Reinstall the stove fan in reverse order.

How to replace the VAZ-2114 stove motor with your own hands

A warm interior is the key to good and comfortable travel by car. A non-working stove can not only cause discomfort, but also become an argument against further travel by car at all. It’s one thing when you came to the garage, noticed a non-working heater and refused to move further in the car during the breakdown, but if this breakdown caught you on the road, the nearest service center is far away, and it is not possible to drive a car with a non-working interior heater, because the windshield becomes covered with frost and further movement becomes dangerous. Then the only option left is to either transport the car using a tow truck, or try to fix it yourself.

External view of the VAZ 2114 heater fan motor

Replacing the faucet yourself

Changing the heater valve is not difficult, but it will take some time. To do this we will have to prepare the following tools:

• A screwdriver, preferably a Phillips head screwdriver.
• A set of wrenches (open-end and spanner).
• A container into which the antifreeze will be drained.
• New brake fluid, if the drained fluid cannot be cleaned through the filter.

All work on replacing the valve of the VAZ 2114 stove is carried out after the antifreeze and pipes become cold.

Dismantling the valve of the VAZ 2114 stove

1. The first step is to drain all the coolant. We can drain it into a prepared container, which we place under the engine. Unscrew the drain bolt at the bottom of the engine. The tap is located under the center console. Therefore, to replace it, you will have to remove the right side cover of the torpedo. It sits on five screws;
2. Now we can start working on the pipes. Loosen the clamps, pull out the pipes and drain the remaining liquid. The next step is to lubricate the mounting studs with WD-40. Since the bolt head is in plastic, the studs may spin when unscrewing them. And this will not be a very pleasant moment of dismantling the heater tap;
3. Sometimes it happens that the plastic case cracks or crumbles. Therefore, the bolt head can be fixed with pliers or a wrench. While the bolts and nuts are loosening, you can start removing, if possible, all the pipes. If the lubricated faucet mounting nuts unscrew easily, then you can consider yourself lucky;
4. Having pulled out the bolts, we take out the faucet itself. And only after this you need to pull out the remaining traction control cable. That's it, the main part of the work is done. Now you can make a replacement.

Before replacing the VAZ 2114 heater valve, you must first install the cable. Put the faucet on first - you will suffer and swear! Do not forget about the order of reassembling all components and parts!

Having assembled all the parts and secured the pipes, you can fill in antifreeze and start the car. While the engine is warming up, you can visually inspect the clamps and pipes in the places where you removed and changed them. After the engine has warmed up sufficiently, turn on the heating. There are no leaks - you did everything right. And most importantly - on your own.

After some time, you can inspect the clamps again and tighten them a little.

Diagnostics

The primary task is to identify the cause of the breakdown and assess your own capabilities in a specific situation.

Let's start with something simple and move on to something more complex:

1. We check the fuse (F-7 with a voltage of 30 A), which is responsible not only for the heating system, but also for the operation of: the cigarette lighter, heated mirrors, glove compartment lights, and headlight washers. Therefore, when this fuse blows, all of the above devices refuse to work. If it is working, we move further along the chain.
2. Turn on the car's ignition and switch the speed control to positions 1, 2, 3 in order. If the fan does not work in any of these positions, we move on.
   If the electric motor does not show signs of life in the first and second positions of the speed switch, but starts working in the third position (the fan is powered at the first and second speeds through a resistor, and at the third speed the current flows directly to the electric motor), the problem lies in the resistor or in the motor itself. switch
3. If the heater motor turns on after the car engine has warmed up, the problem is a faulty ignition relay. Solved by replacing the relay.
4. If the heater motor refuses to work in any mode, there remains one malfunction - the heater motor itself.

The process of dismantling the fan motor

For the final verdict, let’s apply “+” directly to the motor by removing the positive wire terminal from the motor. If the motor does not come to life, the last thing you can try is to try to clean the place under the ground mount on the electric motor. Often this place oxidizes and the contact weakens.

Basic heating system malfunctions

If the stove stops supplying warm air to the cabin, or if this air is supplied with great difficulty, then the fan is not always to blame.

Thus, we can distinguish the following main types of malfunctions of the electrical component of the heater:

• fuse is blown;
• contacts in the common block have oxidized;
• The heater switch has failed;
• The additional resistor burned out.

The first thing to start troubleshooting with is the fuse, designated in the general block as F7 and rated for an amperage of 30 A. It should be carefully removed from the block, ringed and, if necessary, replaced with a new one rated for the same current. .

VAZ 2114 fuse box

Since fuse F7 protects not only the motor of the VAZ 2114 stove, but also devices such as mirror heaters, glove compartment lighting and the cigarette lighter, then the failure of the fuse element can be judged by their performance.

The second thing that should be checked (if the fuse turns out to be serviceable) is its contacts at the point of attachment to the common block. If oxides or severe dirt are noticeable on them, they should be removed with a cloth moistened with VD or kerosene, or simply with very fine-grained sandpaper. Very often, such basic repairs can return the fan to normal operation.

Poor contact of the VAZ 2114 mounting block

The third step of checking should be the switch, for easy access to the contacts of which the center console should be removed. After this, you should take a device, which is a 12-volt car light bulb with wires soldered to its outputs, and alternately connect its “positive” wire to contacts 1, 2, 3 of the switch.

The negative wire must be connected to body ground, and the ignition must be turned on. If in all modes the light comes on with different brightness, then the switch is working; if not, it means it needs to be replaced.

Sometimes a faulty additional switch resistor is to blame for the stove’s incorrect operation, which can be indicated by the fan turning on only in mode 3.

Having checked all the specified components (as well as ringing all the wires connecting them), you should also check the motor of the VAZ 2114 stove. Very often, the same oxidized contacts are to blame for its inoperability, which should be cleaned in the same way as the contacts in the mounting block or soldered wires that need to be soldered.

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In order to check the fan for sure, it should be connected directly to a 12-volt voltage source - if its impeller remains motionless, then the device has failed and requires replacement.

How to remove the heater fan on a VAZ-2114

If none of the above brings success, then we will remove the electric motor of the stove; for this you will need a screwdriver and a small set of keys.

1. Disconnect the terminals from the battery.
2. There is a positive terminal and a negative terminal located in the cabin under the dashboard; they must be disconnected.
3. Next, we move into the engine compartment of the VAZ-2114; the fan casing cover can be removed after unscrewing the four fastening screws.
4. After opening the casing, you need to unscrew the two screws that secure the fan.
5. Next, we unscrew the screws that secure the air intake grilles to the housing in front of the windshield. Let's take them off.
6. Next, we remove the electric motor of the stove, since all its fastenings have already been removed. The fan is placed on a hook located on the body - move it towards you and lift it up.
7. After removing the fan housing from the hook, you need to rotate it 90 degrees to remove it from the casing, or disassemble the heater housing for convenient removal.
8. We disconnect the motor with the impeller from the casing.
9. Remove the impeller from the motor.
10. There are several further options: either replace the electric motor with a new one, or try to bring the old one back to life (if this is appropriate, for example, by replacing the brushes. If the winding is broken or there are problems with the armature, then it is better to replace the entire motor).
11. Next, we collect everything in the reverse order, removing all the debris from the heater shaft.

New and old heater motor

After the work has been done, we enjoy the rustling of the heater motor, the warmth and comfort of our car. These simple tips will help you save money and continue your planned trip.

Why doesn't it work

There are several reasons why the propeller may not turn on when the temperature situation requires it:

• The electric motor of the fan, that is, the drive, has failed;
• The fuse broke and burned out;
• Relay failed;
• The wiring is broken;
• The sensor connectors have lost contact;
• The sensor has failed.

Finding the fault

When to change

If the fan itself is the cause of all the problems, it is not necessary to change it, since in some cases it can be repaired. Failures are often associated with bearings or brushes.

If the cause of the breakdown is the failure of the electric motor due to a broken wiring or short circuit, it is not worth the risk of repairing it. It is easier and better to replace the entire drive.

Checking for open circuit

If you drive a car that does not have a cooling propeller, this will lead to overheating of the coolant and destruction of pipes, rubber elements, gaskets of the main cylinder block and valve covers. It is not far from destroying the components of the piston group.

Fuse

Operating a vehicle with a broken fan is strictly prohibited.

Price issue

Before starting to solve the problem of a radiator propeller not working, it is important for many people to learn about the cost of components and labor. A new element today will cost approximately 1.5-2.5 thousand rubles, depending on the model and region. The cost of replacement at a service station will be from 400 rubles and more

Although it is not necessary to spend money on this, since replacing it yourself will take you no more than half an hour. Yes, and there’s nothing particularly complicated here

The cost of replacement at a service station will be from 400 rubles and more. Although it is not necessary to spend money on this, since replacing it yourself will take you no more than half an hour. Yes, and there’s nothing particularly complicated here

A new element today will cost approximately 1.5-2.5 thousand rubles, depending on the model and region. The cost of replacement at a service station will be from 400 rubles and more. Although it is not necessary to spend money on this, since replacing it yourself will take you no more than half an hour. Yes, and there is nothing particularly complicated here.

temperature sensor