Cherry Amulet engine doesn't start well

Chery Amulet won't start

A car is a faithful assistant to a modern person, as it allows you to quickly get to any point in the city and suburbs.
Foreign and domestic concerns are constantly producing new vehicles that combine quality, reliability and functionality. But Chery was able to develop not only stylish, but also reliable cars, the popularity of which has remained for a long time. For connoisseurs of high-quality budget cars of foreign production, this is the best option.

The starter turns the engine, but the engine does not start

Malfunctions that appear when the engine is started are a fairly common occurrence during vehicle operation, regardless of the type and design features of the installed power unit (gasoline, diesel, naturally aspirated or turbocharged engine, hybrid engine, etc.). One of the most common situations is that after turning on the ignition and turning the key in the lock to the engine start position, the starter turns normally, but the engine does not start.

A feature of this type of breakdown is a certain difficulty in localizing the fault. The fact is that it is much easier to look for a problem if, for example, the starter makes a sound but does not turn the engine, or the fuel pump does not pump after turning on the ignition. In any case, the existing problem needs to be solved. Next, we intend to talk about why the engine may not start when the starter turns the crankshaft well.

The Story of Cherie Amulet

The Chery Amulet car is a Chinese-made creation, which, since entering the consumer market in 2003, began to gain popularity due to the combination of technical quality and attractive appearance. The liftback was initially produced in China in the city of Wuhu from 2003 to 2006, after which the patent was sold for production in Egypt at the old Daewoo Egypt plant. Chinese manufacturers agreed to sell the patent for the reason that, by their standards, the Chery Amulet car is outdated, so it is not worth taking over the concern. But if in China the car was already considered obsolete, then throughout the world its popularity gradually increased and at some period reached its maximum.

But the Daewoo Egypt company did not produce Amulet cars for long, since the lack of the desired financial income became the main reason for the sale of the business to Ukraine, namely to the AvtoZAZ plant, which is still engaged in production. But, as experienced users of Cherry Amulet cars say, models produced before 2010 were considered the highest quality, since the Ukrainian company ZAZ made its own technical changes, due to which motorists often encounter car malfunctions.

What to do if the car does not start on gas?

In fact, any owner of a car with LPG equipment installed on it knows that his car starts on gasoline in the morning, when cold, and, as it warms up, switches to gas - automatically. Every car owner undergoes similar and detailed instructions after installing an LPG . In any case, he signs for this in a special briefing journal (how carefully he listened to this briefing is another matter).

If the car does not start well, then the reason is not the presence or absence of LPG, but - see the text above - the presence/absence of fuel and spark. However, life situations also happen when there is no gas in the tank, but you (of course) need to start the car. The algorithm of actions is as follows: you need to press the power mode switch button and, holding it down, turn on the starter. Whether the car starts or not depends on a number of factors:

I repeat, there are many factors, and only a specialist can answer why the car won’t start. I will also add that the algorithms of action for cars with gas equipment of Euro-2 (carburetor) and Euro-4 (injection) standards are the same: starter with the switch button pressed.

From personal experience

I have been driving on gas for more than 20 years. Although it is more correct, of course, to say “on gas” rather than “on gas”. However, in my life I have not yet met a single specialist in gas cylinder installations who would speak literary correctly, everyone says: “on gas.”

The benefits of HBO are countless. There are far more of them than shortcomings, which is why I continue this “driving tradition” to this day, starting with my first “antediluvian” Moskvich-412 IE and ending with today’s Chevrolet Cruze. However, I have never (not once!) had engine problems due to HBO. Always among the reasons for the engine not starting were spark plugs, ignition coils, ignition control units, or carburetors/injectors, fuel pumps, and so on according to the above list.

The main causes of breakdowns and ways to solve them

Failures can be roughly divided into spontaneous ones due to wear of parts and operational ones, which appeared during the process of improper maintenance of the car. To avoid technical inconveniences, the owner is responsible for periodic maintenance of the vehicle.

Why won't the Chery Amulet car start? Every second owner of this vehicle has encountered this problem. The main reason is the poor quality of the starter, since gradual wear leads to the supply of less electrical voltage, which does not allow the entire circuit to be activated to subsequently start the engine.

If the starter turns, but the car still does not start, the causes of the malfunction may lie in something else: oxidation of the wires, charring of the spark plugs, failure of power supply from the battery, disruption of the electrical circuit between the starter and the engine due to damage to the wiring. In some cases, the lack of starting torque is due to a malfunction of the ignition switch, loss of idle speed and technical problems in the engine itself. Detailed diagnostics using precision equipment is an excellent opportunity to determine the location of the problem and eliminate it without interfering with additional parts and systems.

There are several possible problems that can lead to the engine not starting. Their detailed study is an opportunity to obtain high-quality repairs and restore the normal functioning of the entire car.

In the end, it must be said that appropriate maintenance at a service center and timely response to irregularities in the vehicle’s operation are an opportunity to prevent the occurrence of various types of problems.

Chery Amulet is a reliable Chinese-made car that can create driving comfort only if the owner pays attention in the form of timely oil and filter changes and diagnostics of basic technical components. The car will become a faithful assistant in everyday and business affairs, so you should not neglect even minor inaccuracies in the work.

Source: zapchasti.expert

Replacing Chery Chery fuses yourself. Why won't the Cherry Amulet start?

One of the reasons why Chery Amulet does not start.

Comments on the topic Replacing Chery Chery fuses

Thank you for the video. Very useful and informative!

Instead of an oil trap in the valve cover, you can unscrew the plate from the inside and stuff stainless steel kitchen sponges into the cells. I did this on my Elara. True, the screws are glued, so they need to be heated before unscrewing.

I unknowingly turned a couple. Do this and you won’t have to farm or buy anything. By the way, the 21 and 24 Volga have a mesh in the valve cover from the factory, which is periodically recommended to be cleaned. everything new is old forgotten.

I have a Fiat Doblo 1.6 methane/petrol, it either switches on its own or doesn’t switch to gas because the relay controls the gas. I can’t find it, can anyone tell me??

Thanks for the information. I had the first reason. I wouldn’t have guessed it myself and would have bought a fuel pump. From the heart and all the best.

Hello, everything is in Japanese, how can I translate it into Russian? The second question is when I start the car it plays like play intermittently, the pause works, tell me what to do so that everything works normally.

I really understand the indignation about the quality of the video, namely the fact that there is none at all. But the problem with the lock on this car is a common occurrence.

Hello! My revs fluctuate, and it doesn’t start well when it sits for two, three hours... It doesn’t go uphill, the revs don’t increase when I press the slipper, as if in second or third, even if the gearbox is turned on at “1”.

And it’s hard to believe the automatic transmission, since it doesn’t pick up speed, and not vice versa. I think it's something to do with the fuel or the sensors. It’s fine in a straight line and downhill (even excellent). New spark plugs, XX valve, soap throttle, soap nozzles.

And my idle air valve is not washed, there are no tubes or hoses there at all. What do you advise?

'dress warmly...' who knows when I watched this video, notalgia, and noticed the phrase)))

Some critical remarks about some of the improvements to the Muscovite. 1. Once upon a time I also used a “plunger” fuel pump. Before this, I had a regular one, but apparently made in China. Therefore, after suffering and 'on the advice of friends', I purchased this miracle of technology. Collected with high quality, it really served me for some time.

But two years later it died safely and when trying to repair it, it turned out that there were no valves for it (and the standard ones had worn out to the limit), that the diameter and stroke of these valves were too low, and the diameter and stroke of the diaphragm was too low. That is, low productivity and resource. In the end, I found my original one, put it on a carbolite gasket and forgot about it for decades.

I wanted to install an electric one from Zaporozhets while oil was running out from under the fuel pump, and with the installation of a carbolite gasket I didn’t want to. 2. There is nothing better than the 126th carburetor for this engine (except that you can try a single-chamber one). I tried DAAZ. No matter what I did to it, there was no traction, no efficiency. Constantly poor. I even cut out a transitional recess in the body.

I abandoned it and returned the 126th. The 126th was slightly modified. To improve mixture formation at idle and partial loads, I drilled a tangential air channel in relation to the passage of the throttle valve directed to the idle mixture outlet hole. I adjusted the throttle of the primary chamber to completely close without jamming.

It has become possible to operate the engine at idle at an optimal and even lean mixture. Adjusted it to slightly lean. I made indentation belts (on advice from the Internet) on the emulsion wells. This allowed the emulsion to flow more uniformly from the channel in the small diffuser.

I proportionally increased the diameters of the air and fuel jets until the failure disappeared when only one secondary throttle valve was opened. 3. I installed contactless figure-eight ignition back in the 90s. To do this, they machined a glass, which I put on the cam of the P147A distributor. I installed a Hall sensor there. I added a Vinnitsa switch and a figure-of-eight coil.

The goal was to eliminate constant adjustments. And by increasing the inductive charge and spark power, get rid of misfires, slow combustion when adjustments are violated, and weakening of the spark at high speeds. A coil like the one in the video is intended for systems without a current carrier mechanism; it is connected via two spark plugs and consumes increased power.

The question is why is she here? 4. A gasoline-air charge requires time to ignite and burn, so that in the end it is possible to do work by the pressure of heated gases. The distributor is set at 10 degrees BTDC.

Degrees, but milliseconds are needed. The centrifugal regulator compensates and brings TIME into line when the speed changes, because with an increase in speed, 10 degrees will fly by faster in time. Therefore, the adjustment of this mechanism does not depend on the engine, except that in high-speed engines the range of deflection of the weights should end further.

But with the vacuum regulator everything is more interesting. Since my converted carburetor can now work well at partial loads, near idle, the distributor should also ensure operation at these loads (to save gasoline).

To do this, I increased the stroke of the rod by 1.5 times, by cutting a notch on the rod (in old distributors, the stroke of the rod was limited only by the membrane resting on the body), and by selecting the thickness of the body with gaskets, expanding the spring almost to a free state. Now the economy mode, as expected, is at the lowest speed and not at cruising speed. 3.5 liters at 40-50 km/h.

I will not lay out the imposition of the load on the adjustment characteristics here, but what happened is that when the engine is running, an excessive ignition advance is first set, which leads to a slight drop in power and vacuum, after which the advance decreases and stabilizes near the optimal one (on the hump of the characteristic from the side of the beginning of the displacement to 'before optimal', something like that). It would also be necessary to attach a unit to the vacuum that converts degrees into milliseconds, but this cannot be done mechanically. An electronic multiplier is needed. And I'm lazy. And so the leaf springs burst from sudden acceleration...

Checking the ignition system

Warning Your vehicle is equipped with a high energy microprocessor ignition system (MPI). A voltage of about 40,000 V is supplied to the high-voltage wires, and although at low current strength it is not life-threatening, a possible electric shock when checking the ignition system can lead to serious consequences. Therefore, if you handle a high-voltage wire with the ignition on, use a thick rubber glove or, as a last resort, pliers with insulated handles.

Helpful Hint: Before checking the ignition system, place the gear shift lever in neutral and leave the parking brake on.

1. With the ignition off, check the integrity and fit of the high-voltage wires in the ignition coil sockets.

2. Check the serviceability of the ignition coil (see “Checking the ignition coil”).

3. If the ignition coil low voltage circuit is normal, check for spark at the spark plugs. Remove the high voltage wire from any spark plug. Insert a spare spark plug into the end of the wire and press its metal part against the vehicle's ground (for example, against the intake pipe). Have an assistant turn the engine crankshaft with the starter.

Warnings Reliable contact of the spark plug body with ground is mandatory, since if an additional spark gap appears that is larger than the gap between the spark plug electrodes, damage to the engine control system unit or the high-voltage circuit of the ignition coil may occur. Carry out this check for no more than five seconds so as not to damage the exhaust gas converter if gasoline that has not burned in the engine cylinders gets into it.

4. If there is no spark, replace the high-voltage wires with new ones. You can first try to install new, but proven ones, from a “working” machine.

5. If after replacing the wires a spark does not appear, replace the ignition coil (see “Removing and installing the ignition coil”). If there is a spark, but the engine does not start, replace the spark plugs with new ones. You can also first try to install non-new, but proven ones from a “working” machine.

6. If after this the engine does not start, check the serviceability of the engine management system (see “Fuel injection system malfunctions”).

Fuse box in the cabin of Chery M11

The device fuse box is located on the left side under the instrument panel.

Device fuse box diagram

Schematic diagram of the starting and charging system.

Well, what can I say, dear readers, from the very beginning of managing my dream =))) it was difficult for me to start moving... Yes, yes, you were not mistaken, smooth gear shifting is not about me! And to get moving is not realistic at all! No, don’t think that I’m a teapot without experience (and that’s exactly how I feel), I have experience! I kept blaming the electronic throttle, they say the delay and reaction are not the same, with a cable the sensations are completely different =)))) ... As time passed, there were moments when I stupidly stalled in traffic jams (at 92, stupidly). In addition to all this, there were lumbago, twitching, and occasional tripping, let’s say. I changed the spark plugs, cheap ones though, regular Brisk ones. I ordered good Bosch, but the supplier cut it, re-ordered, I’m waiting... And today my check light comes on...

Attempts to do self-diagnosis using the gas and brake pedals + the key to the ignition position did not give any results, zero reaction... It was boiling, I wanted to hold out until the March holidays, dig around normally... but no... go to the garage, I created...

Pull off the battery terminal. Let's start with explosives, remove, inspect, see

This is the first reason for ignition misfires, we measure the resistance

Content

Spare parts

Ignition coil (A11-3705110EA)

High voltage wires (A11-3707130_40_50_60EA)

High voltage wires (A11-3707130,40,50,60EA)

© 2014 Online auto parts store “To the point” v-tochku.com.ua

Delivery of Chery, Geely, Great Wall spare parts to Kyiv, Poltava, Lvov, Kharkov, Vinnitsa, Dnepropetrovsk and other cities of Ukraine.

Source: v-tochku.com.ua

Lost spark, where to look for the problem? Cherie

Ipsum Type. There are no fish here!!! Golf club director!

Front brake disc Gracia…. Toyota ipsum hood latch Throttle position sensor…. The price of Toyota Supra for Russia has been announced...

Uzbek Ravon returns to Russia. New ones have been developed for Lada Vesta... Restyled crossover Mazda... Toyota Gaia year Antokha Toyota Picnic year Petukhov Andrey.

Toyota Gaia year Veronica Latest questions. Good afternoon!

No spark cherry amulet reasons

Common reasons why a car engine does not start

The reasons can be both general and specific. Let's look at the most common problems.

First place, perhaps, can safely be given to problems with the battery. Very often the engine does not start as a result of the battery being discharged. It is not necessary that the charge be completely absent. In many cars, the starter refuses to turn if the battery produces less than 10 volts. Taking into account this information, it becomes clear that you should not forget to recharge the battery on time. However, complete failure or problems with starting the engine are not always associated with a low battery charge level. Quite often, oxidized or poorly secured terminals are to blame. From time to time you need to clean them with sandpaper to remove the deposit of oxide film, which is a poor conductor of electricity. The same applies to the contacts on the battery itself. After cleaning, it is recommended to lubricate the terminals with machine oil or lithol so that they do not oxidize. Better yet, replace the copper terminals and install brass ones.

In second place in terms of frequency is a very simple and harmless reason - lack of fuel. There are two options: it may not be in the tank, or it may not enter the engine. The driver's actions in this case are extremely simple. First, check the tank (the sensor may fail or show incorrect values). Secondly, check the fuel line. Perhaps there was a leak somewhere and it filled with air. The complexity and cost of repairs depends on the nature of the damage. Sometimes it is enough to simply replace the hose under the hood.

Fuel may not enter the combustion chamber due to a clogged carburetor or injectors on injection engines. In addition, it happens that the fuel pump fails. The reasons for this can be different, but the most common one is overheating of the fuel pump. Of course, we are talking about those cars in which the pump is installed under the hood (usually carburetor cars). It overheats especially often in the summer heat. Another option, although very rare, is that gasoline has lost its properties (evaporated, diluted with condensate, etc.). This happens if the car has been sitting for more than a year. In this case, it is enough to add fresh fuel or drain the remaining fuel, and then refuel with suitable fuel.

Problems in the ignition system

No spark at the spark plugs or wet spark plugs. This is also a very common reason why the engine will not start. You can check the spark plugs yourself. To do this, you need to have a spark plug wrench in the trunk. Checking for a spark is also not difficult. To do this, you need to unscrew the spark plug, put a contact wire on it and try to turn the ignition key at the moment when the spark plug itself is near the metal. A good spark should be fat and bright. If the spark is weak or absent at all, you should take a closer look at the spark plug contacts. Perhaps they are covered with soot. In this case, they must be cleaned with sandpaper or a wire brush. If this does not help, then you should try replacing the spark plug.

It happens that the spark plug is fine, but there is still no spark. Here you need to check the armored wires and even the ignition coil. By the way, the capacitor on the ignition coil may fail. It is advisable to have a spare one with you (it costs pennies).

There is no spark on the center wire. You can check this way: disconnect the central wire from the distributor cover and unscrew the tip. After this, you need to turn the key and keep the end of the wire near the metal. There must be a good spark. Problem with the ignition switch. It happens that some terminal falls off in the lock itself. Especially on older cars. Naturally, you need to know where to put it again. In addition, fuses may blow. Therefore, it is always worth having a set of spare ones in your car. It is inexpensive, does not take up space, and a blown fuse can not only be the reason why, for example, turns do not work. It’s worse when the internal combustion engine does not start for this reason.

Other possible faults

Problems with the starter solenoid (traction) relay. The most common problem here is burnt nickels (can only be seen when the device is disassembled). In addition, contacts may become unsoldered from them. In this case, when you turn the ignition key, only a quiet click of the starter relay will be heard, and the retractor will be silent. If it is working, it will make a clear metallic click. It is unlikely that it will be possible to repair it on the road. Although the repair is inexpensive and relatively simple.

The starter has failed. If, when the car engine starts, a click is clearly heard when you turn the key, but the start does not occur, and the battery wires get hot or even smoke comes from them, then the starter needs to be replaced. The ignition is set incorrectly. This happens after engine repair. In this case, you should contact a specialist.

The distributor is filled with water or simply wet. This happens, for example, when driving through large, deep puddles. In this case, the spark will simply go away (break through) and not reach the spark plugs. The solution is simple: wipe the distributor and let it dry. The engine may not start because it is jammed. The signs and causes of a wedge are a broad topic that will be difficult to consider within the scope of this article. In addition, for various reasons, piston rings, etc. may become completely stuck.

So, as follows from everything that is written above, answering the question of why the engine does not start is not so simple. All reasons can be divided into three main groups: - problems with fuel supply; -electrical problems; -problems with mechanics (that is, with the engine itself).

It is recommended not to forget to regularly carry out scheduled maintenance, additionally check the engine and attachments before a long trip, charge the battery in a timely manner and fill the gas tank with only high-quality fuel.

Source: zinref.ru

Why is there no spark at the spark plugs?

There can be several reasons for the lack of spark at the spark plugs. Most often the culprits of the malfunction are:

1. Accumulator battery;
2. High voltage wires;
3. Ignition coil;
4. Distributor;
5. Malfunctions in the low voltage circuit.

Also, in the absence of a spark, special attention should be paid to checking the quality of contacts and electrical connections of the ignition system elements. You can check the condition of the contacts simply by rubbing them with your hand.

Carefully inspect the wires and blocks of the ignition system - if dirt, oil or water is found on them, they must be wiped with a dry cloth. After that, try starting the engine, it may start this time.

Checking the battery

A clear sign of problems with the battery is a dull and quiet horn signal. Also, if there are problems with the battery, the indicator lights on the instrument panel usually go out while the starter is rotating. In this case, the reason for the lack of a spark may be poor contact at the terminals or a low battery charge.

• If the terminals are oxidized, they must be cleaned and tightened tightly. In addition, you can use graphite lubricant, which will reliably protect the contacts from oxidation in the future.
• If the battery is discharged, it must be charged using a charger.

For information on how to properly charge a car battery and maintain it, read our battery charging instructions.

Checking high voltage wires

Next, it’s worth inspecting the high-voltage wires: they must have a neat, not “tattered” appearance, without insulation damage, otherwise they will have to be replaced. If the wires are ok, then you can start looking for a spark.

We recommend starting your search for a spark with the spark plug wires. To do this, you need to remove the tip of the spark plug wire from the spark plug and bring it to the “ground” (the nearest unpainted metal part of the body or engine) at a distance of 5-8 mm, after which you need to turn on the starter for a few seconds.

The rotation of the starter should be accompanied by an uninterrupted bright spark of white color with a slight blue tint. If there is no spark, you need to check the ignition coil. A violet, red or yellow spark indicates a malfunction in the ignition system.

Chery Amulet › Logbook › won’t start p0342

Sorry - there are a lot of letters and it may be a mess, but all this was written during the renovation process!

after repairing the head, I changed the DTOZH (photo 4), because the OBD gave the following error and after removing it, the test said about its death after installing the DTOZH, the OBD gave another error DPRV p0342 in the store for 300 UAH they sold this one, but I don’t understand where to cut it... with I'm already suffering this morning(((

It turns out they got it from another model (photo 1), but I need this one - photo 2-3

I dug up a couple of opinions and a test option, further (c): “Floating error 0342 can be caused by a malfunction of the DF, damage to the wiring harness, unreliable connection of the terminals of the wiring harness blocks, damage to the terminals. 1. Turn off the ignition, connect the diagnostic tool, check for errors. 2. If the error is not fixed, see the information above. If the error is not fixed, see the information above. 3. If there is an error, turn off the engine. Undocking the harness block from the DF. Turn on the ignition. Using a multimeter, check the voltage at the terminals of the harness block. At terminal “2” it should be equal to the on-board voltage, at terminal “3” - more than 9 V. If this is not the case, check the correct connection of the wires to the DF terminals. If everything is correct, the cause of the error may be a malfunction of the ECU or DF circuits. 4. If the voltage at terminal “2” is equal to the mains voltage, at terminal “3” it is more than 9 V, then reset the errors. Without connecting the wiring block to the DF, start the engine. If error 0342 appears, replace the DF; if the error is not detected, replace the ECU.” and “Error - P0342. appears when the timing belt phases are set incorrectly, check the compression in all cylinders should be at least 10 kgcm2 and set the timing phases, it is possible that the timing belt has jumped several teeth, if the timing belt has been loosely tensioned, then during sudden acceleration and engine braking it can jump several teeth and bend valve then the compression in the cylinder will be 0 - 5 kgcm2″

p.s. I don’t have anything to measure the compression with - I’ll try to measure it with a tester... I measured it: it showed: 0.46 and 4.69V... accordingly, option “3” - “check the correct connection of the wires to the DF terminals”... that’s what happened

after a day's discussion:

“help! did you change the camshaft position sensor? where is he and what needs to be removed? Just not the camshaft, but the crankshaft, or in other words, the phase sensor. It's on the side of the box. zoltern on the camshaft website! gave an error p0342 zoltern on the website mir-auto.net/product/datc…hery-amulet-cheri-amulet/ like this - I can’t insert a photo - they banned me for being active (Chapcher on mobile Check the timing belt, it happens when the teeth are eaten, that the same error pops up zoltern on the website, I just changed the belt and roller, after replacement they repaired the head, and then it started, but the fans immediately worked on a cold one and it gave the error DTOZH - replaced it, it gave p0342 - I bought a DPRV, and where to stick it xs and even it doesn’t help( (( Chapcher on mobile Right next to the temperature sensor. DTOZH is closer to the radiator, and DPRV is a little further away. The pads look the same, only on DTOZH they are white and with a straight fixation spring, and on DPRV they are pink-violet and with a curved spring zoltern on the website I have three plugs from one wire: one blue (there are two colors inside - an orange bezel and some other... was wearing DTOZH and two black ones, both inside and outside are wearing DPRV and DPKV, this is how I took it from a hundred and how can I find out from the manufacturer xs which plug goes to which sensor...so 100%? i.e., judging from your entry, I have the plugs mixed up; I have a two-color one (like your pink-violet one) on my DTOZH, and on my DPRV I have a plain-black Chapcher on my mobile. That’s exactly what they got mixed up. According to the link that I gave, the colors are written there. “Electrical equipment” section Chapcher on mobile Reply to zoltern’s comment written yesterday If anything, it is located next to the coolant temperature sensor. zoltern on the site is somehow different! Chapcher on mobile a15-chery.ru/ - here are complete instructions for repairing the amulet. Step-by-step and with pictures... “... “And is it fraught with the fact that you won’t start it on November 1 at 17:08 and that’s it? November 1 at 17:08 Isn’t it enough for you? November 1 at 17:08 If so, can we have some fun throwing it around? November 1 at 5:09 pm Try it November 1 at 5:09 pm in the store they said that because of this my coolant died November 1 at 5:09 pm are they making noise? November 1 at 17:10, but after replacing it, its error went away with a connection like mine (different from yours) November 1 at 17:13 There was a thread on the Chinese forum about these sensors. I'll go on my computer and take a look. November 1 at 17:19 thank you for your help phase sensor with red wires (three wires, two of them are connected, and one is not green), and coolant with green and blue (two connected) November 1 at 17:20 Well, we figured it out 1 November at 17:24 no, that’s what I asked!) November 1 at 17:25 now I’ll go see what kind of wires I have in real life where on November 1 at 18:21 two red ones and a black one (blue and yellow with trapezoidal ends) were connected to the coolant November 1 at 18:22 is not correct? November 1 at 18:23 Judging by the diagram, it should be connected to the DPRV on November 1 at 20:27 that’s right! woe betide the masters mixed up the red and black chips - DPRV! the error disappeared and the car started...at idle the temperature sensor crawled up to half and I returned home...tomorrow morning we will try to go to work on November 1 at 20:31 If the chips were different in size, there would be no problems, but the only difference is the color and the springs , so it’s no wonder it’s confusing... They changed the engine for me, it was connected normally, I’ve been driving for two and a half years after the replacement, everything is fine...”

I installed the chips as needed and everything was ok, tomorrow I’ll take the DPRV from A-13 back to the store and exchange it for coins because the DPRV error (as of the evening of 11/01/15) has disappeared

Source: www.drive2.com

Changing the oil in the Chery Amulet engine. Which one to pour?

The original was taken from toomth in Changing the oil in the Chery Amulet engine. Which one to pour?

As I already wrote, having purchased a car, willy-nilly you have to delve into its internal structure. If last time you solved the problem with the battery, now it’s time to change the engine oil. The choice settled on Rosneft Premium 5w-40 oil. Why did you stop there? I’ll try to explain. So, we have a 2008 Chery Amulet with a SQR480FD gasoline engine. This is exactly the engine indicated in the PTS and we have a manual for the SQR480ED engine in our hands. Ambush. Although this manual turned out to be useless - it does not indicate what kind of oil should be poured, but only when and how to do it. This means you need to delve into the essence of the issue) It could have been simpler - find out from the former owner what he poured there and not bother. But there’s also an ambush here - he doesn’t remember what he uploaded there, go to your Internet and find out. “Radish” is a friend though) The first question that arises is mineral, semi-synthetic, synthetic - everything is simple here. Mineral is the cheapest and accordingly worse. Accordingly, the most expensive is synthetics, but semi-synthetics are in the middle. Let's take synthetics. 2nd - There is a certain classification of motor oils according to API - these are the same SM/CF indicated on the packaging (this table can be easily found on the Internet). The table shows that SM is not a bad level. Let's take it. It seems that SN is even better, but I simply couldn’t find it at the gas station where I was ((. CF - classification for diesel engines - is not interesting. Probably speaks of its versatility. 3rd, the SAE 5w-40 marking itself is a little more complicated, but not much complicated. SAE - The abbreviation SAE means that this oil has been tested by the Society of Automotive Engineers, which regulates the viscosity of lubricants for cars at the international level - everything is clear here. 5w-40 - the number before w - determines the minimum operating temperature - “5” is - up to -30 C. (the correspondence table is also available on the Internet))) For Crimea, this is enough for me. The letter w itself means Winter - that is, winter. The last number 40 is the oil viscosity at 100 degrees (engine operating temperature). Some use 30, but since the higher the viscosity, the thicker the oil film and the better the protection, it is better to play it safe and take 40. Thus, Rosneft Premium 5w-40 oil is the most optimal for Cherik, and accordingly this is what I was able to find it quickly. This is the first time I have asked myself this question and therefore I ask concerned drivers to respond - am I doing the right thing? Next, I need to buy a filter and go to the service station, because let the specialists do it. I also plan to rinse it before filling - you never know what was poured there last time.

Tags:

Why does the engine on the Chery Amulet troit and stall when cold?

Source

Why does the Cherry Amulet engine stall?

Trouble, the engine in the Chery Amulet began to stall at idle. In this situation, the following problems are observed:

• loss of engine power;
• increased fuel consumption;
• difficulty starting;
• vibration;
• motor failure;
• floating speed.

In this case, malfunctions can be different, from less expensive to more expensive, which can lead to a major overhaul of the engine.

Device

ATTENTION! A completely simple way to reduce fuel consumption has been found! Don't believe me? An auto mechanic with 15 years of experience also didn’t believe it until he tried it. And now he saves 35,000 rubles a year on gasoline! Read more"

The Cherry Amulet car starter is an electric motor consisting of 4 poles and brushes. The device operates on the principle of direct current, receiving excitation from magnets. The starter is combined with a planetary gearbox and a retractor relay.

Starter Parts:

• solenoid relay for 3 fastenings;
• brush assembly from Bosh - A11-1GD3708120;
• short brushes Valeo - A11-1CX3708122;
• bearing A11-1GD3708110.

Specifications:

• rated power - 1.2 kW;
• voltage - 12 V;
• duration of continuous operation - up to 10-15 seconds;
• battery capacity - not less than 60 A/h;
• device type - refurbishable, serviceable.

The solenoid relay plug on the Cherie Amulet starter is plastic.

Causes of engine malfunctions, ways to eliminate them

In most cases, when the engine in a Chery Amulet fails, computer diagnostics must be performed to troubleshoot the problem. In this case, troubleshooting will be reduced to a minimum, and it will be clear where to look for the problem.

Otherwise, when a malfunction is identified, you can change many parts and motor mechanisms, spending a decent amount on their purchase, but still not fix the main damage.

The following vehicle systems may be affected by this malfunction:

• supply system;
• ignition;
• electrician;
• breakdowns in the motor;
• gas distribution system (GRM).

Video: searching for a spark in the ignition system of a VAZ 2109

Forums on chip tuning and car diagnostics

• Unanswered topics
• Active topics
• Search

New version of ChipLoader 2.38

The program installation can be downloaded from the link: https://drive.google.com/open? > The new version adds the following features: - Added GM MT60/MT80 Extended module - OBDII (read/write full dump of FLASH, EEPROM memory) - Added the ability to automatically control power to the M74 module - boot mode - Added support for recalculation of CS in the Tricore TC1762 module /1766/1796/1797/1767/1724/1738/1791/1793/1798/1728/1782/1784/1792, Bosch ME(G)17.9,x - boot mode for Bosch ECU

Promotion: Owners of CHIPSOFT J2534 adapters receive a 50% discount on the GM MT60/MT80 Extended - OBDII module

Ignition system malfunctions

The first option for an ignition malfunction may include spark plugs. To avoid such a problem, the spark plugs are replaced after a certain mileage of the car specified by the manufacturer, preferably as a complete set.

The second problem may be high-voltage spark plug wires. Replacement is also carried out after a certain period of time specified by the manufacturer. The simplest, most common way to check wires is to check them in a dark room.

To do this, you need to create darkness, the darker the better. The hood opens and the car starts. If the wires are broken, sparks appearing on them will be noticeable. This indicates their failure.

The third possible option is the ignition module. A discharge is transmitted from it through the wires to the spark plugs. It becomes unusable after a certain period of time, heat coming from the car engine.

Other reasons why the starter turns, but the engine does not start

If fuel is supplied and the ignition works, but the engine does not start from the starter, a thorough diagnosis of electrical circuits and components is required. The cause may be a blown fuse, power failure, failure of the control relay, oxidation, corrosion or destruction of contacts, etc. In some cases, on fuel-injected cars, the engine ECU itself fails.

Also, do not forget that the ECM sensors that interact with the ECU may fail. As an example, we can consider the case when the engine, when trying to start, seizes a little, but does not start. At the moments of seizure, strong shaking of the motor is noted. The culprit in such a situation may be either the crankshaft position sensor (crankshaft position sensor, Hall sensor) or the starter itself. In the first case, a faulty sensor sends incorrect signals to the control unit, as a result of which the ECU is unable to correctly adjust the composition of the fuel-air mixture and fuel supply.

In the second case, so-called “interference” may be to blame. The specified electromagnetic interference, for example, from the starter to the crankshaft sensor, does not allow the electronic device to generate the correct signal to the computer. If there are malfunctions in the operation of the DPKV, the engine will not start, although fuel will be supplied normally, and the starter itself will turn the crankshaft well. Also pay attention to the car alarm, which may block the engine from starting due to failures in the main unit or additional immobilizer.

Supply system

No fuel enters the cylinder. Such a malfunction can occur from an injector that is clogged, does not flow, or only flows part of the gasoline. In this case, the nozzle must be cleaned with special equipment or replaced.

A rich or lean mixture arrives. The enriched mixture contains a small percentage of air. In this case, you need to pay attention to the air filter. If it is dirty, this may be the cause of the malfunction.

A lean mixture contains a high percentage of air. The fuel filter is clogged or the fuel pump is faulty. Problems with the vacuum brake booster. In both of these cases, the engine can stall both hot and cold. An additional breakdown may be the failure of the power system sensors, which are responsible for the production of the combustible mixture. Damage to the motor and timing system

To operate efficiently, the engine must be sealed. In most cases, when Chery Amulet is running, there may be a problem with the cylinder head, a burnt out valve or a failed camshaft. An additional breakdown may be a breakdown of the gasket between the block and the head.

To diagnose the malfunction, it is necessary to measure the compression in the cylinders. It should be 10-13 points. The permissible difference between the cylinders is 0.5.

Cherie Tigo won't start, but the starter turns

Here the field for checks is much wider. The engine may not pick up for a number of obvious reasons, and in addition, if we have an automatic transmission installed, then the limit switches of the automatic transmission selector may also be oxidized and prevent the electronic control unit from providing a spark. However, the most common reasons for failure to start are as follows:

Low pressure in the fuel rail.

No spark .

The valve timing is off .

The injectors or the fuel rail are clogged .

Fuel filters are clogged .

fuel pump has failed .

Problem with the ignition module .

The electronic engine control unit is not working correctly.

Inoperative sensors (camshaft position sensor, throttle position sensor, oxygen sensors, mass air flow sensor, idle air control). And a number of other reasons, including battery discharge.

Fuel system pressure

First of all, we check the pressure in the fuel rail. For this we need a pressure gauge or a special set for these purposes. First, turn on the ignition and listen to whether the fuel pump electric motor is working. If the engine does not turn on, check the wiring and fuse (F3 15A, located in the engine compartment module).

To check the pressure on the fuel rail there is a fitting from which we remove the cap and install a pressure gauge hose in its place.

When the ignition is turned on, the pressure should be within 2.8 kPa , at idle speed - 3-4 kPa and higher.

If the pressure is lower, check:

Fine fuel filter and fuel inlet filter.

Fuel pressure regulator module filter.

Fuel pressure control.

Operation of the fuel pump.

The difficulty is that the Tigo T11 has two fuel modules installed - on the left and right sides of the gas tank.

The ingenious fuel supply system assumes that the right module (1) is directly responsible for the fuel pump, the left one, which is behind the driver (2), controls the pressure in the system; an excess pressure valve ( fuel pressure regulator ) is installed there.

It is this valve that in 90% of cases causes a drop in pressure in the system and, as a result, the engine refuses to start, does not develop speed, stalls and stalls while driving.

All this can be checked by removing the rear seat cushion. To start checking the fuel pressure regulator and the fuel pump itself, you need to remove the fuel pump fuse (F3 under the hood), relieve the pressure and only then begin to replace the fuel supply and pressure control modules.

We recommend that you pay attention to the cleanliness of the tank and fuel modules, since contamination such as in the photo above leads to blockage of not only the fuel line, but also the ramp.

Answers (2)

Check the battery charge first - it looks like it's just flat. Light a cigarette from another car. https://avtoexperts.ru/article/kak-zaryadit-sevshij-akkumulyator-avtomobilya/

Then check the spark plugs, as they may have been filled with gasoline, oil, or have simply failed due to their expiration date - https://avtoexperts.ru/article/zamena-svechej-zazhiganiya/

It's all right, it started up, then it didn't start again, 8 hours passed and it started up

Sounds like a dying battery. And charge, then check how the generator works, whether it charges the battery and whether it’s normal

The battery lasts ok, it’s only a year and a half old, the generator works, there are no electrical failures. Yesterday it started all day, today it didn’t, it started only after 15.00. I think it might already be the starter, screw the brushes.

Chery Amulet, Chery Tiggo, Chery Fora, Chery QQ, Chery M11

Chery M11 (M12)

The Chery M11 has three fuse/relay blocks: - power fuses at the battery terminal - engine compartment fuse block - passenger compartment fuse block

The fuses in the engine compartment are designated "FB+digit" or "SB+digit" The relays in the engine compartment are designated "R+digit". The fuses on the battery terminal are designated "FB+digit". The fuses in the cabin are designated “IP fuse + number”.

"CE + letter, number" on a wiring diagram refers to the terminal (designated by a number) of the connector (designated by a letter) in the engine compartment fuse/relay box. For example, CE A2.

"IP + letter, number" on the diagram means the terminal (indicated by a number) of the connector (connectors are displayed alphabetically) in the passenger compartment fuse box. For example, IP A2.