Wiring diagram for power windows 2109

When you need to install ESP (electric windows) yourself, then, as always, on the Internet it is difficult to find correct and understandable diagrams for everyone. Having experience in radio electronics, I am laying out for everyone the correct and understandable diagrams for connecting an ESP, an intelligent glass closer Pandora DWM-210 (but it is better to install a Sheriff PWM-200), as well as simple closers only for raising the glass, installed in the wire gap on the positive side of the motor.

The process of installing the ESP is described in detail by me here: www.drive2.ru/l/4651635/

We take ESP power buttons (NOT low-current trigger (multiplex) from Itelm), namely power ones: a block from Granta, and a new model button from Kalina (it’s the power one), since they are the cutest in appearance.
These are, of course, not dual-mode imported buttons, but they will work just as well with an intelligent door closer. We also install the Sheriff PWM-200 type door closer itself. Power buttons are easy to identify by their contacts - they have thick and flat blades, while trigger buttons have thin pins like needles!
We use thick power wires (shown in bold in the diagrams) >= 1 mm2, while control wires can be used thin = 0.5 mm2. Exception! If the buttons are not on the door, but on the center console and thick wires >= 1.5 mm2 are stretched from them to each door, then you can do without a relay, since there is no duplicate button here, and each one has its own door and the drawdowns are minimal. Then you don't have to read further.

Plus +12V must be taken from the fuse block, and not from the ignition, otherwise the automatic window closer will not work when arming. It is better to take the weight from the bolt behind the mounting block, and not in the door, since the contact in the door may not be very good. Although the door contact is also good if the car is not old. Take tinned terminals.

Connection diagram for power window lifter button "AVAR"

Diagrams for connecting the backup button on the driver's door to the main button on the passenger door

When installing two buttons on one window regulator, they are usually installed in series (or in parallel, but then they must be decoupled via a relay).

The main button is the button that controls the power window of the door on which it is installed. The duplicate button is the driver's button, which additionally controls another window regulator from the driver's seat.

Daisy chain connection (for low current trigger buttons)

We connect the output of additional button 1 in the driver's door to input 6, and output 7 to input 3 of the main button on the passenger door.
We cut the wires in the block connecting contacts 5-6 and 6-3. The minus of contact 5 now goes only to the backlight, and contacts 6 and 3 now take output from additional buttons 1 and 7 of the driver's door. Attention!
Installation in parallel will cause short circuit when raising and lowering. Power wires are highlighted in bold.

Parallel connection (for our power buttons)

Since with a serial connection you still can’t do without a relay, it is better to make a button duplication circuit in parallel, decoupling the main button from the backup button through two 5-pin relays: the wires from the main button next to the driver’s ESP motor go directly to the 88th contact of the relay and from pin 30 directly to the engine, and long wires from the backup button go to pin 85 of the relay winding, and the relay feeds a powerful plus to the passenger’s ESP engine.
A parallel connection for power buttons is preferable, since there is no need for a relay on the main (passenger) button (the wires here are short), and we thereby eliminate unnecessary clicking of the relay when the main button on the passenger door operates. For non-power low-current (trigger) buttons, in this case you will definitely have to use 2 more extra relays to relieve the load on the passenger button (therefore, a serial connection is always used for trigger buttons). Further, everywhere in my circuits a parallel connection is used, since all the buttons are power
.

Connection diagram for multiplex (low-current) ESP button

ESP connection diagram when the multiplex button closes the contacts to ground

Dimensions of the installation location for the ESP “AVAR” buttons

Glass closer Pandora DWM-210

What it gives: - full glass travel in one short press (“one touch”) - BUT DOES NOT WORK ON 2 GLASSES AT THE SAME TIME (since the module has only one sensor for electromagnetic noise of the motor, current and time); — stopping the glass in any position by pressing again in any direction; — automatic stop of the glass when it encounters an obstacle in the window opening; — automatic shutdown of ESP motors when current is exceeded; — automatic closing of windows when arming the car; — automatic opening of the windows when disarming to the previous position before arming, if the parking lasted no more than 20 minutes. (The rev counter works rather conditionally and may leave the windows closed or not closed enough). The closer is installed in the driver's door.
ATTENTION! When you hold the button, the closer does not use its relays
, which take the plus (through a 20A fuse) and minus from the closer, but sends all the current directly from the button to the motor, so you need to install a relay after leaving the button with long wires!
Apparently this was done so that if the door closer fails, you can always close the window by simply holding the button. When you briefly press
the button, the door closer with its relays is activated and closes the glass.
Place the relay only at the input to the closer from the output after the duplicate button!
If this is not done, then due to subsidence along the long wires of the sequential connection of the buttons, the passenger window will barely move.
The output of the closer must be connected directly to the motor without a relay, otherwise the detection of electromagnetic noise from the motor will not work and the closer will not work!
At the output of the driver's power button, relays are not needed, since all the power wires there are short.
It is ideal to install 2 door closers on each door, as is standard on foreign cars - then the AUTO mode will be on 2 doors at once in parallel, and not alternately. In addition, you will not need to pull 2 extra thick wires to the motor from the driver's door to the passenger's door. If I had known right away that the Pandora DWM-210 is such a Ketai crap without its own relays in the power part of the closer, I would have purchased and installed a Sheriff PWM-200
, in which the power part is clearly separated from the control part and, moreover, you can close two windows at the same time in one touch! So it's definitely better!

Connecting power windows VAZ-2109

Owners of a VAZ 2109 car can replace power windows with electric windows. On 2109 cars, electric windows can be connected via standard wiring, which already has everything provided for connecting an ESP.

This circuit is used to connect ESP on more “rich” configurations of the nine and it is advisable to use it when connecting independently. Below are diagrams for connecting an ESP with fuse blocks of new and old models.

Wiring diagram for power windows on a VAZ 2109 with an old-style mounting block (17.3722):

1 - Mounting block
2 - Ignition relay
3 — Ignition switch
4 — Right door electric window motor
5 — Left door electric window motor
6 - Right door power window switch
7 - Left door power window switch
K7 - Power window power relay
A - To terminal “30” of the generator
B - To the wiring harness block connected to the heater lever illumination display
B - to the heater lever illumination display
G - conventional numbering of plugs in the gear motor block

ESP diagram VAZ 2110, 2111, 2112

1 – mounting block
2 – ignition switch
3 – right front door power window switch
4 – right rear door power window switch
5 – electric window motor reducer of the right front door
6 – electric window motor reducer of the right rear door
7 – electric window motor reducer of the left rear door
8 – electric window motor reducer of the left front door
9 – left rear door power window switch
10 – left front door power window switch
11 – relay for turning on electric windows
A – to power supplies
B – to the instrument lighting switch
C – conventional numbering of plugs in power window blocks

The power window relay for this car is located in the mounting block. On the left under the panel in the fuse box on the additional connector.

Window lifter diagram for VAZ-2115, VAZ-2115

Power windows for front doors for VAZ-2115, VAZ-2114 cars (usually power windows are installed only on front doors).

1 – mounting block; 2 – power window switch for the right front door; 3 – gear motor for the electric window of the right front door; 4 – motor reducer for the electric window lifter of the left front door; 5 – power window switch for the left front door; 6 – ignition switch; K5 – relay for turning on electric windows; A - to power supplies; B - to the external lighting switch.

Installing power windows on a Nine with your own hands is quick and easy

During production, domestic “nines” are equipped with manual window lifters (SP), popularly called “meat grinders”. To increase comfort when using the car, many car owners equip their iron horses with electric windows. In this article we will talk about how to choose window regulators for a VAZ 2109 car and how to install them.

Serial connection - diagram

We connect the output of additional button 1 in the driver's door to input 6, and output 7 to input 3 of the main button on the passenger door. We cut the wires in the block connecting contacts 5-6 and 6-3. The minus of contact 5 now goes only to the backlight, and contacts 6 and 3 now take output from additional buttons 1 and 7 of the driver's door. Installation in parallel will result in short-circuiting during lifting and lowering. Power wires are highlighted in bold.

When using trigger buttons, connect all ESP motors only through a relay. When using a conventional door closer, relays are also needed, since they are not in the long-press closer block and all the current flows through the buttons and wires from them.

Parallel connection - diagram

Wires from the main button next to the driver's ESP motor go directly to pin 88 of the relay and from pin 30 directly to the engine, and long wires from the backup button go to pin 85 of the relay winding, and the relay feeds a powerful plus to the passenger's ESP motor. A parallel connection for power buttons is preferable, since there is no need for a relay on the main (passenger) button, thereby eliminating unnecessary relay clicking when the main button on the passenger door is operating.

Start installation

You need to start installing window lifts by choosing the mechanism itself. Today we have three versions of this device. Everyone has their pros and cons.

For those who have already installed modifications on cars, it will be no secret that without the correct circuit it is difficult to do this. When installing any electrical device, first of all you need to correctly connect all its contacts and power supply in order to avoid possible disconnection and broken connections in the future.

Scheme for any number of buttons and doors

Here you can place any number of buttons in parallel and simultaneously press them in different directions - a short circuit is impossible from the circuit design. In a situation where we press the up button on the main button, and the down button on the backup button, it will simply stop, since both power lines will have the same potential. The advantage of the circuit is that the power switching is in one place, there are no losses in the harnesses and on the buttons, there is a minimum of “pulling” of wires - 2 in total per channel + ground.

Glass closer Pandora DWM

Connection diagram for the passenger door button in series through a duplicate button on the driver's door. Contacts 1-6 and 7-3 are always normally closed. When you press the up button, contacts 1-6 open and 1-2 close (window rises). When you press the down button, contacts 7-3 open and 7-2 closes (window down). The 30th contact of a 5-pin relay, without supplying voltage to the winding contacts, is constantly shorted to contact 88, which gives us the necessary negative contact (works like a switch). If voltage is applied to the winding, then contact 30 is disconnected from contact 88 and connected to contact 87. Contact 86 of the winding is connected to ground.

Replacing the window regulator

If the VAZ-2114 window regulator does not work, it can be replaced with a new one. To do this you need to do the following:

Using a 10 mm wrench, unscrew the three nuts that hold the glass guide.
Using a size 8 wrench, unscrew the three nuts that secure the electric motor or manual drive gearbox.
Disconnect the glass mounting bracket from the glass holder. To do this, you need to unscrew the two 8mm bolts on the bracket.

Installation of electric windows on a VAZ

The procedure is performed in the following sequence:

temporarily remove the glass seal located on the inside of the door;
remove the glass, and then dismantle the window regulator fastening mechanism;
we install devices that will operate from an electric drive;
connect the negative terminal to the battery and check the operation of the new window regulator;
We install the glass in place and trim the door.

Unlike conventional mechanical devices, power windows are not equipped with traditional gear reducers, but with a special drum. The shaft of a DC electric motor is inserted into its hole located in the center. In this case, the motor is only a component of the gearmotor, on which, as we found out earlier, the speed and quality of raising and lowering the windows depends.

Installation of the lifting device is quite simple. It starts with disconnecting the battery. After this, use a curved screwdriver to unscrew 3 screws, unfasten the door trim latches and remove the door pocket. Using a thin screwdriver, pry off the handle (latch) of the window lifter - the tip of the tool is inserted into the recess between the latch and the socket.

Detailed replacement of window regulators

So:

From the interior side, you need to remove the handle and remove the “soap dish” located under the door handle itself.
The fastening bolts are carefully unscrewed and the interior trim is dismantled. Do not damage the plastic latches.

Note! If several latches are broken, they must be replaced with new ones. Otherwise, rattling will be observed in the cabin.

Now, one by one, remove the plugs, the handle and its lock. You should also unscrew the bolts from the handle and remove the “pipe”.

Replacing the window regulator of a VAZ 2109

As a rule, manual window lifters are secured with 7 nuts and a pair of bolts that secure the device to the glass. In this case, you need to remove all the bolts and remove the device from the door. Since there is a risk of glass breaking during the change process, it is recommended to secure it with a cable.

Replacing the window regulator of a VAZ 2109

The guide bolt of the old window lifter is removed, as well as the bolts of the bracket for raising the glass through the door hole. The same applies to the lower mounting bolt of the SP slide.
After unscrewing all the necessary fasteners, you can safely remove the mechanical device.
Now you need to pay attention to preparing the new window lifter, as well as installing the correct brackets.
Temporary wiring from the battery is currently being installed to the door. It may be required to regulate the ESP in order to prevent sticking and biting of the glass when lifting and when fixing the device to the glass.

Note! You need to be extremely careful not to allow short circuits in the wires.

To install the window regulator inside the door, you first need to install it in the folded state, as there is a risk that it will not fit.

Note! At the time of purchase, the device is in an unfolded state. In this case, you need to connect it with temporary wires, only after that, changing the polarity, the rail is brought into the middle.

The ESP is mounted in place of the old lift, the SP studs are inserted into the door holes and secured with several nuts.

Note! The studs are not driven in, but attached, since then you will need to screw the lift to the glass, which requires some adjustment.

The lift rail is raised, so it becomes possible to align the holes with all the glass mounting holes, only then the joint is screwed into place.

Replacement of power windows of VAZ 2109

Note! In some situations, such actions make the joint venture work worse, then you will need to turn the mechanism in the opposite direction.

Determining the location of control buttons

For these actions you will need a ruler, pencil, file and hand drill:

Note! The wires must not be short-circuited; it is advisable to disconnect the “-” terminal of the battery at the time of work.

The plastic of the front pillar is dismantled and the interior trim is folded back.
Several meters of two-core wire are passed through this stand directly into the door. It is also required to conduct a single-core wire according to this principle.
Since the wires rot and break after a while, you need to install casings between the door and the stand. As a rule, when the ignition is turned off on the “nine”, only the cigarette lighter and side lights work.
Once the wiring is all the way through, it's time to connect it. To do this, you need to have an appropriate diagram available.
At the end of the work, you need to check the functionality of the entire mechanism. Place the terminal on the battery, press the button, evaluate the efficiency of the new ESP and the lighting of the backlight on the button.

Note! If the joint venture is working too slowly, you need to try switching the “+” wires.

All resulting connections are wrapped with electrical tape, while the wires themselves are hidden in a niche in the cabin. This must be done in order to prevent them from being pinched by the ESP rail. You can install a button in the door trim of a VAZ 2109, connect the block and mount the trim in place. All removed elements are installed in the opposite order of removal and the functionality of the power windows is re-checked. Of course, ESP is an important part of the machine, but it is not necessary to turn to professionals to install them, since videos and photos on the Internet reveal all the intricacies of installing the mechanism with your own hands. For a better understanding of the replacement process, detailed instructions are provided with a description of each stage. To obtain the desired result, it is important to purchase a high-quality mechanism, the price of which may vary depending on the manufacturer.

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Installing electric windows on a VAZ 2109 will take just an hour

Types of electric windows and which ones are better for the VAZ 2109

ESPs come in various types.

cable-type (weak and very slow, with the advantage of being cheap and being able to replace the motor separately if it suddenly burns out);
rack and pinion (a bit weak, based on operating experience - require regular lubrication);
articulated-lever (work quickly, make little noise, are quite powerful: they can easily cope with frozen glass).

We opt for the latter, called “Pomegranate”. Moreover, the kit of these ESPs includes everything necessary for installation - electrical wiring, buttons, plugs, all the necessary fasteners, rubber cuffs for pulling the wiring from the rack into the door.

There are also “Katran” and “Berkut”, they have a slightly different device and installation is a little more complicated, but according to reviews they are also not bad.

Installation and connection diagram for VAZ 2109 window regulators: step-by-step instructions with photos

Before starting work, you must turn off the power supply to the vehicle's on-board network from the battery. Or we separately turn off the power circuits for the cigarette lighter and the backlight of the instrument panel and buttons, because The power supply wiring for the power windows will be connected to these circuits in the future.
Remove the door trim. It can be removed quite easily, but it is better to stock up on mounting pins.
First of all, we dismantle the mechanism of the standard manual window lifter, fixing the glass (for example, using office tape) in a position that provides access to the place where it is attached to the lifting mechanism.
Unscrew the bolts securing the door glass to the standard window lifter mechanism.
We dismantle the guide of the standard window lifter mechanism (trapezium). Unscrew the bottom nut:
Two nuts in the middle:
Top nut:
The guide is free, now all that remains is to unscrew the three nuts securing our window lifter in the area of the rotation handle.
We take out the entire door window lifter mechanism. To do this, we bring the lower pin of the guide into the hole in the door (see photo).
By pressing with a screwdriver, we remove the upper fastening of the guide.
Done, the window lift mechanism is disconnected. We take it out of the door cavity.
That's it, the standard mechanism has been dismantled, let's start installing a new one. The new mechanism is attached using standard fasteners; you don’t have to drill anything new. We place the window lifter mechanism into the inner cavity of the door through the largest technological hole in an “assembled” form (otherwise it won’t fit), as if in the “open” position of the glass.
We fasten the mechanism inside the door using two studs, which we insert into two holes that previously held the middle part of the guide of the standard VAZ 2109 window lifter. We combine them and screw on the nuts.
The next task is to combine the mounts on the window lift linkage system with the mount on the glass. This can be done by supplying power to the power window motor contacts from an external power source, for example, any working car battery.
When the lift mechanism is combined with the strip on the glass, we connect them using the bolts from the kit.
It is advisable to lubricate the rubbing parts thoroughly.
The mechanical part is complete, let's move on to the electrical part.
We estimate the route for wiring from the door from the electric motor of the window lift drive to the installation location of the buttons - activators. The standard place for buttons in the high panel of the VAZ 2109 is two plugs to the right of the cigarette lighter, and we install them there. The hardest part is running the wiring from the door into the rack and then out of the rack under the dash. For this purpose, there are technological holes in the rack. You may need to use a special probe. The wiring is done with a wire with a cross-section of at least 1 mm. sq. We lay the wires in such a way that they do not touch any moving parts of the door or the ESP mechanism itself. We will take power for the electric windows from the cigarette lighter. Electrical connections are made according to the following diagram:

When the circuit is assembled, it is necessary to connect the battery power and check the correct operation of our system. We turn on the side lights and check the correct operation of the backlight of the ESP activator keys. If the backlight does not work, swap the sockets on the contacts of the keys, indicated in the diagram as 3 and 6. You can install the window lifters in the standard way, here are two diagrams:

Connection diagram for electric windows on a VAZ 2109 with mounting block 17.3722 (before 1998)

Connection diagram for electric windows on a VAZ 2109 with mounting block 2114-3722010-60, 2114-3722010-10 and 2114-3722010-18 (new model)

You can read more about the types of mounting blocks for front-wheel drive VAZs here.

We check the functionality of the window regulators. The glass should move smoothly, without jamming or jerking, and should not come out of the guides. To facilitate the movement of glass in the seal, it can be treated with silicone grease.
All that remains is to reinstall the door trim.
That's it, the installation of the window lifters is complete, let's enjoy the completed modification!

Lada 21099 Gray-green › Logbook › Installing ESP Forward on 21099

Greetings my subscribers!
It’s been a while since I wrote anything about my typewriter. Yes, I still couldn’t get it together). And there is something to share. Since a lot of improvements have accumulated. I'll start by installing the ESP. So let's go: In mid-May, I ordered an ESP forward for the front doors from the AVTOGSM store. They came like this