Preparation for installation
We purchase a lock kit. There are a lot of manufacturers of auto parts on the market now, but there are no special differences between the sets. It is important that the device has a warranty card and instructions for use and connection. Also in the box you will find:
Additionally, you need to stock up on a set of standard tools: pliers, screwdriver, screwdrivers, multimeter, drill with carbide drill bit. In addition to the standard accessories, immediately buy additional wires; it is quite possible that the length of those you find in the box will not be enough for you. Black heat-resistant insulating tape, corrugated tubes, and clips for fastening the trim will also be useful, since very often the trim of car elements is attached to disposable ones.
Important! Be sure to check that the warranty card for the purchased device is available and filled out correctly. Regardless of who performed the installation, you or the service, you have the right to free repairs within a year.
Self-installation
First of all, it is necessary to secure the electric drive to the trunk lid and provide it with a mechanical connection to the lock itself. To do this, you will have to make two cuts on the lock, and bend the resulting free “tongue”. Thus, we gained access directly to that part of the lock, by pulling which the trunk lid will open. Now we attach the long metal stick from the kit so that the lock can close when the system is operating. It is quite possible that you will have to cut off extra centimeters of this pin.
Now our device is installed properly and all that remains is to connect the electrics. To do this, we will use the diagram below.
Important! When working with electrical equipment, remove the battery!
In most cars, electrics operate on 12V positive voltage. However, if you doubt that everything is the same for you, it is better to check with the car dealer and not use this diagram for connection. It is very important to make the correct connection of the wires, since the proper operation of your car as a whole depends on it. At best, some options will simply not work correctly; at worst, a short circuit will occur. And it is not always possible to restore the electrics and electronics of the car after it. And this work will cost a lot of money. In addition to the above, lay wires where standard wiring is already laid. In difficult places, for example, when you have to pull the wire from the passenger compartment to the trunk, it is necessary to use protective corrugated tubes.
Electrical work
To begin with, according to the diagram, we connect all the elements located in the trunk. Now you need to tighten the wires to the driver's door. It all depends on the car model. For some it will be convenient to pull the electrics through the door sills from below, for others the option of protective strips from above is suitable. Immediately secure the wires with cable ties. If the length is not enough, take an additional wire, solder the joint with a soldering iron and rewind it with tape. Let's continue connecting. We connect the negative wire to the electric drive, and then connect the second negative wire to the main control relay. The third, also known as the last wire, needs to be connected to the alarm. To do this, you need to find the control unit; most likely, it is located under the dashboard. In it you will find free contacts for connection.
Lada Kalina Universal Kalinish › Logbook › Trunk activator in Kalina.
We got our hands on the trunk with the button! The idea of remotely opening the trunk, like on all normal cars, was already included in the Kalina from the factory, but was not fully implemented. Thanks AvtoVAZ. Even old electrical circuits have an activator in the trunk, and the key has a tailgate button! In general, I'm pretty sick of fiddling with the lock cylinder and the key. In the cold, the lock freezes, the defroster quickly dries out, and the key itself constantly gets stuck in the lock cylinder. You can’t tackle everything at once, so everything was done in stages. The wiring for the activator is already installed in the fifth door by the factory. There is a place for mounting the activator, but it is intended for an old type of lock. I have a new type of lock, which came after 2010, so I had to attach the activator parallel to the lock opening rod.
Additional modernization of locks
If you dream of your car doors opening and closing as smoothly as in foreign cars, try installing silent locks. Such a device can be installed on any model of Zhiguli. For representatives of the retro era, such modernization is also possible, but the locks themselves will have to be filed a little. By the way, you can also put it on the trunk. In general, there is no limit to perfection.
And the installation is, in truth, very simple and transparent. It is enough to dismantle the old locks, try not to drop the necessary elements inside the door, or remove the trim in advance. And then install new analogues on two bolts. There are situations when, after installation, the door does not close tightly or warps slightly, causing cracks to form. Solving the problem is also very simple by adjusting the location of the device. In general, initially try to secure it exactly where the old one was.
see also
Comments 37
the door closes so clearly, how did they achieve this... is it noisy or heavy or something?
Hello, please explain about the trunk opening from the button. Today I tried to install it, installed the actuator, it works, it pulls the rod. I really didn’t saw the tooth! But the question is this, the cylinder is of course closed, otherwise the point of the lock (so that they don’t come up and open it in any time, even during the alarm). I press open the trunk from the key fob, the actuator clicks and the door moves away a little. Then it’s clear that the tooth is holding it, do I understand correctly? So, in order to eventually open the door further, what should happen? Previously, I pressed the cylinder and it opened, now the larva is not active - since the lock is closed! I have to pull the door towards myself and click again... what kind of nonsense? Did this happen to you? Or do I have a malfunction? help, thanks in advance!
Hello, everything is connected correctly for you, and since the tooth is not sawed down as you describe it will be, the best option to avoid sawing the tooth is to buy a trunk lock from a Priora station wagon, there is a lock with a rounded second tooth, actually I ended up with it then I did just that, because the lock with the sawn tooth began to jam over time. If anything, write, I’ll try to explain in more detail
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Well, I’ll try to saw it... why is it needed? They say it’s to protect against opening... but it was removed on the K2 and Priore... is this AvtoVAZ nonsense or what? I’m afraid of the minuses without a tooth, can there be any? It won’t open on its own on bumps?
There won’t be any downsides 100 percent, it’s just AvtoVAZ’s omission that they didn’t immediately think about rounding off the tooth
So is it better to cut it down or round it off, as it were? This is important, I can do it better.
There won’t be any downsides 100 percent, it’s just AvtoVAZ’s omission that they didn’t immediately think about rounding off the tooth
one or two teeth? Some say two, others one...
You file down one tooth, like in my photo, only I just filed it down, or you can file it down and slightly round it. And the best thing is to not have to worry about cutting it down, go and buy a lock from a Priora station wagon, it will replace the Kalinovsky one as if it were a native one, it can be changed simply by unscrewing two bolts. It’s not expensive, in my opinion if I’m not mistaken it’s something less than 500 rubles
I decided to stir up this topic, because I use the trunk very often.
I managed to buy a good activator only the second time. The first Chinese man was caught who did not have enough strength to open the lock. I looked around the market and found our domestic one, I don’t know how many kg it is, but it pulls great, i.e. exactly what I wanted. I connected it to the factory connector, which was carefully twisted and taped inside the fifth door.
I decided to throw out my own castle, because... After sawing off an unnecessary tooth, I didn’t like the sound the trunk made when closing. I bought a station wagon from Priora. He stands up like a native.
I didn’t pull the opening button far, although there was an idea to make it near the power window buttons, but after thinking about the crooks, I abandoned this idea.
In general, in the photo you can see how everything turned out. Now I open it from the button near the seat or from my original key fob while holding the bottom button.
Good afternoon everyone! The time has come for the first entry in my BZ.
I have been thinking about the idea of opening the trunk using a button on the key and a button in the cabin for quite some time. Either there was no time for implementation, then my hands were out of w... ahem... in general, I was finally mature enough to realize my idea both morally and financially.
1. Actuator selection
I originally bought this actuator:
But, unfortunately, his efforts were negligible to open my trunk.
The option of installing such an actuator was considered:
but, after rummaging around in the garage, a wild thought came to me...why not put this?
YES YES! It's exactly what you're thinking. This is a pull-in relay. Preventing throwing tomatoes and rotten eggs, I want to say that this option suits me quite well. The effort is just awesome. In my case, this is what the doctor ordered.
2. Connection diagram
In my Kalinka, the control unit for the electrical package is “NORM”, and it has an old operating algorithm. You mean, if you press the button to open all the doors, or arm the car using the original key fob, then contact 19 will work and the trunk door will open. I found the diagram on the Internet and modified it a little. Initially, the scheme solved the problem of the button for opening all doors, but when arming, the tailgate still opened. This is, in fact, what happened in the end, after a lot of three-story matting and destroyed nerve cells.
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I would like to note that this circuit is only suitable for low-current activators. In my case, the power supply of the retractor must be turned on through an additional relay, due to the high current consumption. Yes, and the standard wiring will not be enough; you will have to pull a wire of a larger cross-section.
3. Additional button
I put the button here
4. Trunk lock
Regarding whether to file down a tooth or not to file it down. There are a lot of articles on the Internet about how a lock from a Priora station wagon is suitable for Kalina, with the top tooth cut off already from the factory. I started looking for this unit. In our car markets we have never heard of such a thing, but on Tyrnet this miracle costs 360 Khokhlobaks. The toad inside me took over and I went for the grinder. This is what happened in the end
I advise you not to overdo it with sawing... you can ruin the lock.
5. Summary
The trunk door opens with the original key fob. When you press the button to open all doors and when arming, the relay opens the contact to the activator and the door does not open.
I'm glad it's an elephant. This is my first blog post, so don't judge too harshly. If you have any questions, I will be happy to answer!
Good luck to everyone in your endeavors.
Price tag: 300 UAH
How to dismantle the lock to replace the cylinder?
You can gain access to the lock mechanism by removing the plastic upholstery inside the luggage compartment. This protective component is fixed by means of two bolts, which are located in the places where the special handle is installed. They are also called latch caps. They are pryed off with an ordinary screwdriver.
Structurally, the trunk lock in the Lada Kalina is made of two parts, regardless of the body type, hatchback, station wagon or sedan. They are presented in the form of a cylinder and the unlocking mechanism itself. If it is necessary to replace the trunk lock, then the dismantling of these components is carried out in a separate order.
When you only need to replace the larva, this can be done in a few simple steps. Here you will need a screwdriver and a socket.
- By unscrewing the bolts, we release the necessary part of the body.
- Next, remove the retainer using a screwdriver. It is attached directly to the body of the larva itself.
- It is recommended to remove it very carefully, while holding the spring.
- Installation of a new element is carried out strictly according to the reverse manipulation algorithm.
If there is a need to replace the lock itself, the operation becomes a little more complicated due to the need for additional actions.
- First, the door lock is unscrewed using a screwdriver. This is not difficult since the element is held in place with only two screws.
- Now we pull the trunk lock outward, and it freely comes out of the landing niche.
As you can see, removing the trunk lock is not difficult.
How is the activator installed?
The only way to get inside the trunk of a Lada Kalina is this manipulation - turn the key and press the button. This action is not always associated with convenience. For example, in bad weather or when your hands are full, this is not easy to do. This circumstance prompts owners to consider purchasing and installing an activator. Installing this useful element is quite simple. Here you will need a self-tapping screw, which will secure the device we are considering. To check the functionality of the activator, you should connect it with the standard connector from the on-board network.
After the current supply to the activator is stopped, the door is locked with the first latch, but remains not completely closed. To get back inside the luggage compartment you will need to use the key.
Lada Kalina Hatchback Silver & Black › Logbook › Trunk with key fob button/button from interior
Good day everyone! For a very long time I wanted to open the trunk with a button, because I’m already tired of closing it with the key every time!))) Let me remind you that I have the NORM equipment, which does not come with a trunk activator (I don’t know if it works on the LUX or not) When you press the button on the key (here is this button)
I could hear the relay clicking, that is, it was working, but the trunk still wouldn’t open! I decided to figure out what was going on and finally give myself such an option as opening the trunk with a button))))
Electric drive: easy installation
The manipulation algorithm is very simple. Here you will need to make the rotary plate together with the rod yourself. The wiring is laid directly to the lock and connected to a special control unit. When the car is “disarmed”, the electric drive of the luggage lock is activated following the unlocking of the button responsible for opening the rear door of the Lada Kalina.
The whole essence of the action comes down to connecting the electric lock to two cable lines. You can buy the product at a specialized retail outlet. The end of the luggage compartment will need to be hidden in order to prevent the risk of moisture getting into it. If this is neglected, then with the penetration of water a short circuit will be observed in the designated area.
Much attention should be paid to the area near the door hinges, because broken wires are a common occurrence here. To prevent this, it is recommended to regularly monitor this section of the highway.
Before starting the procedure for installing the electric drive in a Lada Kalina car, you will need to remove the plastic trim. Here you need to be careful not to damage the specified protective element.
The choice of a lock for LADA Kalina should mean that there is no subsequent need for modifications before installation. This means drilling additional holes.
An important point in the installation procedure is the laying of electrical lines. For these purposes, you will need about 3.5 m of appropriate cable. You can use standard wiring suitable for the rear door. The power source can be a cigarette lighter socket. It is also important to install the fuse correctly.
We do all switching in LADA Kalina in accordance with the diagram.
Important! The main line in this version may include a wire that goes to the courtesy lamp for lighting the space inside the trunk.
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Comments 20
I also want to do this for myself, maybe one of these days I’ll do it
great post. A question from a teapot, so to speak. I don't know much about electrics. But still not enough to pull out the right one from the pile of wires. The question is exactly this. I have a viburnum with an alarm. Moreover, when the electrician installed it, he said that the trunk would be opened with the alarm key fob and with the standard key fob, and said to buy an additional regular four-pin relay. I installed the activator - but it’s not convenient to open it from the key fob - I want to embed a button into the interior. Maybe someone can tell me where and where to get what.
Here you can do everything elementary. The button is placed in the gap of the positive wire. It takes a long time to draw a picture, I’ll try to explain it with my fingers. Take a two-contact button that works to close. Connect one contact to 12V, the other to the plus of the activator. It is advisable to place a diode in the gap in the power wire that goes from the signaling to the activator. Everything will work.
Well, thank you. Almost understandable. I can most likely figure this out.
Here you can do everything elementary. The button is placed in the gap of the positive wire. It takes a long time to draw a picture, I’ll try to explain it with my fingers. Take a two-contact button that works to close. Connect one contact to 12V, the other to the plus of the activator. It is advisable to place a diode in the gap in the power wire that goes from the signaling to the activator. Everything will work.
Hello! Please tell me if it's not difficult. I installed the activator, now the trunk can be opened with the factory key fob. When the car is started, the key fob won't open it. But it opens if you press the unlock button on all doors. Everything would be fine, but I close the doors with a button in the cabin when I drive or stand in remote places. Then I open it in the city, and naturally, the trunk opens with them, I have to get out and slam it. How to prevent the trunk from opening with this button. And also, I want to make a separate button to open the trunk from inside, where should I connect it?
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Hello. Read the article carefully, it describes exactly your problem with the door opener button. You'll have to solder the circuit.
Thank you, I have already done the standard wiring. I set the activator to unlock, not to open. Now you only need to press the button on the trunk. In the blog there is
Here’s a question: I did it approximately according to the same scheme), but even after cutting down the second tooth I can’t open the door, I have to press the button on the doors, and maybe I need to change the stops or what?
I don’t quite understand, the button in the doors opens the tailgate, but not the remote control?
thank you, I figured it out) just not a big electrical glitch))
it turned out great) I also spent a long time doing everything, all I have to do is put the button on, but it doesn’t open with my key and for some reason the doors open along with the trunk, I don’t know why
Thank you! I don't quite understand about the doors. When you press the 3rd trunk release button, do the doors open?
Yes, such garbage, because of this I won’t use the remote control, I’ll have to make a button in the door, that’s enough
Hmmm...interesting garbage...I haven’t come across anything like this yet. It’s a pity that you don’t live in Donetsk, it would be possible to figure out what and how