Lada Granta › Logbook › Washers for the limiters of the front strut supports. Eliminating suspension knock.
Another revision of grants for five rubles. Many people are familiar with the knocking sound in the front suspension of grants, a kind of proprietary feature. It bothered me from the first days of driving a car; it manifests itself especially strongly on gravel, the feel on the steering wheel and the sound are terrible. Rattling, small knocks and hum. After installing the guy ropes, the noise became much less, the gravel became quieter, the holes and potholes were also better, but not completely. There was a slap left by the police; when they hit the hole, the sound was quite strong with a ringing sound. What is typical about Grant’s father is a sedan with a robot and the suspension behaves completely differently, the car corners more rigidly, does not roll like mine and is much quieter. I lubricated the rack, tightened the suspension, kicked the wheels, but the roar remained the same. I read a couple of times about how to place washers under the bell-shaped washer on the strut support limiter. I haven’t seen any negative reviews, such as torn off or broken. The M14 washer fits under the limiter and the sound disappears. Oh well, I thought. And in vain, as it turned out. After reading the next entry, I decided to bet on the puck. You need to buy two M14 washers for a construction or auto store.
The inner diameter turned out to be not M14, but M15, it fit on the rod without any looseness, so it will work.
We take a 22mm key and a 6mm hexagon in our hands.
We approach the test subject
Removing the disc stopper
Carefully take the puck
And we put it on the stem.
That's it, we wipe the sweat from our foreheads and take a couple of before and after photos.
I went to check it out and tell you it’s gorgeous. The suspension has become much quieter, more pleasant and comfortable. Small ripples no longer cause rattles on the steering wheel and body, even hefty wheels getting into holes just boom and that’s it, without a slap. I drove along a couple of dead roads, more like a lunar crater, and was pleased with this tuning. It became much quieter. I was also worried about one feature due to which I would have to be on guard in long turns. The car on an arc at a speed of more than 60 km/h began to sway like a barge from the front outer wheel to the rear wheel diagonally. If at this moment the hole was caught, first there was a strong roar, then it was rearranged and quite violently. Therefore, I tried to slow down on the curve and avoid potholes. Now this is not the case, the car moves smoothly along an arc, it does not wobble, hitting holes does not cause a rumble, the car only moves slightly. I drove it today and yesterday, and quickly, no buildup. P.S. Today I was driving around the city with my wife and no, no, it knocked when turning. The reason for this knocking is purely constructive. The caster of the grant is made through the ass, the tilt of the rack is ensured by the displacement, and not the tilt, of the axis of the rack. As a result, when the steering wheel is turned, the bump stop washer becomes misaligned with respect to the support. The washer rests against the bump stop at one end and knocks, in my case it even jammed. The additional washer gives a little free space between the bumper washer and the bumper itself. Reducing noise and eliminating much of the shock.
Another collective farm by me. The windshield wiper trapezoid caps tormented me. Two years ago I disassembled the trapezoid, washed the axles of rust and filled everything with lubricant. The wipers began to work faster. But this winter I forgot to turn off the wipers and turned off the car; the wipers froze at night. In the morning, when I started it, the wipers twitched and flew off their pistons. I bought a repair kit, put everything back, but the passenger wipers still did not want to work properly, the retaining ring kept falling out. The new repair kit did not correct the situation. I just wrapped it with copper wire and off it went.
Addition: I increased the outer diameter of the washer to 36mm in order to completely cover its internal silent block. It has become better, there is no minor nervousness at speed, even quieter on small ripples. The steering wheel also started to pound :(
Addition 2. On the advice of androz, I replaced the washers with a limiter from Peugeot Sasic 2650038. The effect is amazing, soft and very elastic suspension, the suspension has become much quieter and more pleasant. Now only the rack needs to be repaired, it rattles like a nightmare, and the washers transmit this noise well to the body.
Source: www.drive2.ru
Ways to eliminate a squeaking dashboard
Remember that even the most progressive and “sophisticated” cars can “suffer” from the most unexpected “sores”, among which the creaking of the instrument panel is far from the worst phenomenon. The most important thing is not to panic, but to study the issue properly, find the cause of the squeak, select material and a person capable of performing this work.
That’s all for me, thank you all very much for completing this article to the end and for visiting the Driver’s Manual. your secrets on how to remove the creaking of the instrument panel and plastic in the cabin using the comment form. Take care of yourself and see you again!
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Creaks and knocks in the front suspension of the Lada Granta: causes and diagnostics
Comfort when driving a Lada Granta car consists of many factors, one of which is the operation of the front suspension. Knocking, noise, and “breakdowns” of the suspension also affect traffic safety, so timely diagnosis of breakdowns of this unit is simply necessary. It is better to carry it out at a service center, but some faults can be identified yourself.
How to eliminate squeaks on a Lada Granta Liftback: recommendations from an expert
Creaks are present even in the basic configurations of the Lada Granta Liftback, despite being equipped with noise and vibration insulation. This causes significant discomfort to the driver while driving.
Eliminating squeaks is not an easy, labor-intensive, and costly procedure. Not all owners willingly agree to do this in a service station. In order to save money, car enthusiasts practice doing noise reduction with their own hands.
Read below about how to do this on a Lada Granta Liftback.
Probable causes of suspension malfunction
View of the front suspension “from under the wheel”
The unpleasant creaking of the front suspension of the Lada Grant, “breakdowns” in its operation lie in the malfunction of the elements of this component of the car. Conventionally, they can be divided into two groups: the shock absorber strut with its contents and all the rest. The reason for separating the strut into a separate category is due to the increased load on it: it simultaneously performs the function of an upper arm and dampens vertical vibrations of the wheel.
The main causes of malfunctions of the telescopic stand include the following:
- Loosening of the attachment of its upper support to the supporting body.
- Destruction of the rubber buffer.
- Liquid leakage from the shock absorber, scuffing on its rod, damage to the chrome coating of the rod.
The shock absorber is leaking (needs replacement)
In the photo: lower lever assembly with ball
Damage to the ball joint is also possible, usually caused by an overestimated service life or the installation of a substandard part. Worn rubber bushings in the stabilizer and braces will also affect the smoothness of the suspension. Breakage of the main spring is unlikely, but natural wear or installation of a non-standard model can cause a loss of elasticity of the suspension as a whole.
Self-diagnosis of faults in the front suspension
There are several explanations for even one symptom of a breakdown, so it is better to identify the true cause of the malfunction at a bus station.
The following groups of signs of deviations in the operation of the front suspension can be distinguished:
- Spontaneous deviation from straight-line movement, “yaw” of the machine.
- Noises, knocks, “breakdowns” when driving on uneven roads.
- Reduced service life of suspension elements, their rapid failure.
The paint on the stand has come off and the stand has begun to rust.
The first group usually includes malfunctions of the stabilizer. You can visually inspect the entire suspension and, if there are no signs of dents or deformations, then it is worth checking the setting of the toe-in/camber angles of the front wheels. Externally, their deviation is observed in the uneven wear of the tread of the front wheels, but it will take some time for the tires to wear out.
There is a chance to detect this failure by ear: when entering a turn, you will hear the creaking of rubber, and the steering wheel usually does not return to its original position on its own.
A creaking sound in the front suspension is one of the temporary malfunctions of a Lada Granta car if it is caused by operating the car on a polluted or sandy road. In this case, sand particles may get into the rubber seals (silent blocks) of the stabilizer or braces. After washing the noise disappears.
The “couldn’t be simpler” suspension is just a plus.
The suspension is “simple to the point of disgrace”, a crab, a strut, a lower ball, two silent blocks - and that’s it, that’s all its capital.
After any work that involves disconnecting the hub from the strut, it is necessary to do a wheel alignment. As a last resort, you can try using a chisel to make marks on the strut and on the camber bolt (it's on top).
Knocking noise when driving over uneven surfaces
Knocking in the suspension when driving over uneven surfaces is also uncharacteristic: the Lada Granta, although not an off-road vehicle, is quite capable of overcoming small bumps. Typically, knocking noises occur when fasteners are loosened, nuts are tightened, or the ball joint or shock absorber strut is worn out.
If the service life of the suspension elements is too short, there are usually two reasons: poor quality of the parts used or an overly dynamic, aggressive driving style.
It is also worth paying attention to the compliance of the front wheel rims and tires themselves with those recommended by the manufacturer.
Lada Granta suspension device
Front suspension device (diagram)
This car uses an independent suspension with one lever, to which the lower part of the steering knuckle is screwed. Its top is mounted to the shock absorber strut, the operation of which differs from many similar units on domestic cars. When you turn the steering wheel, the fist with the shock absorber strut and the spring placed on it rotates. The shock absorber auger, screwed through a bearing to the upper strut support, remains stationary.
The ball joint provides flexible articulation between the steering knuckle and the suspension arm. The camber angle is adjusted traditionally for front-wheel drive versions of VAZ cars - with a nut with an eccentric on the main shock absorber strut, at the point where it connects with the steering knuckle. The suspension is kept from directional fluctuations by a common anti-roll bar and braces on both sides of the suspension.
Details in the photo
All suspension elements are in the photo below
crickets in the car
We will use a product for cleaning and polishing the upholstery, and apply the product especially generously to the junctions of this panel with others.
We will use a product for cleaning and polishing the upholstery, and apply the product especially generously to the junctions of this panel with others.
It is possible that this will be the end of all the creaking. The polish, once in the gap, eliminates dry friction and the sound stops. True, only for a while. If you want to solve the problem radically, then you will have to dismantle the panel and carefully inspect it. Areas that cause squeaking will be marked by abrasions and a thin layer of wear debris - plastic dust. Now, having seen the enemy in the face, begin the fight. You can stick double-sided tape to the contact point: the connection will subside, but will become conditionally inseparable. By gluing the Velcro halves to the mating parts, we will also stop the mutual movement of the parts, while maintaining the possibility of disassembling the connection. Many sources recommend using the advertised “fungal” Velcro, but it seems to me that there are no such commonly disassembled joints in the car.
Which cars are structurally more prone to squeaking and which are not? Examples are in the photo below.
Weak points of the suspension
In wet weather it is not always possible to see a defect in the shock absorber strut
If you carry out independent repairs, for example, replacing a ball joint, then you must carefully tighten the fastening bolts. There are no through holes in the steering knuckle to which the support is attached: the bolt is screwed into the knuckle itself. Excessive tightening force may cause the bolt to break. A knock in the front suspension may also occur for this reason.
For reliable and long-term operation of the suspension, it is necessary to comply with the speed limit of the machine stated in its technical passport. Also, regular maintenance will help eliminate the appearance of noise, knocking and deviation from straight-line movement.
Source: carfrance.ru
Front support bearings for Lada Granta. When to change
The service life of the front support bearings for the Lada Grant is even approximately difficult to calculate. A trained ear will immediately detect tapping sounds when driving over uneven surfaces. The original Grant support bearings of the front struts are not particularly reliable, since there are complaints about both the materials and the design of the standard bearing.
Factory standard support bearing for Granta and Kalina 2 assembled
On average, the front strut supports on a Grant have to be changed after 50-60 thousand mileage. Sometimes it is possible to reach 75-80 thousand if used on smooth roads.
A worn front strut bearing knocks ungodly, and if worn severely, it can cause a broken support cup if the driver has poor hearing or strong nerves. Also, the wear of the support cannot but affect the car’s handling and the behavior of the front end when cornering and when changing lanes. Therefore, there is no point in delaying replacement.
Worn strut bearings may stick
Cracks in the rubber bushing of the strut support
How to glue plastic in a car to prevent squeaks
Among the many disadvantages of budget cars is the low quality of materials (upholstery, plastic, rubber products, etc.). The unpleasant creaking of plastic, which is found almost everywhere (panel, door cards, etc.), while driving due to vibrations and friction, produces an unpleasant irritating creaking noise, which constantly reminds you that when buying a car you decided to save money...
Car owners come up with everything they can to eliminate the squeaking of plastic panels, some “chemically” do something with their own hands, others put their car in the hands of professionals, others “don’t worry” and just turn up the music louder so as not to hear how the plastic is held together.
